ECO mode Citroen BX HATCHBACK 1987 2.G Workshop Manual

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Citroën BX
Service and Repair Manual
Models covered
Citroën BX Hatchback & Estate models with petrol engines (inc. GTi, 16 valve & special/limited editions)
1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc
Does not cover diesel engine variants or 4x4 models
I M Coomber and Christopher Rogers
© Haynes Publishing 1997
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or
mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any
information storage or retrieval system, without permission in
writing from the copyright holder.
ISBN 1 85960 190 1
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British LibraryPrinted by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset
BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ ,England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
Editions Haynes S.A.
147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France
Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB
Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige(908 - 336 - 1AA12)ABCDE
FGHIJ
KLMNO
PQRST
1 2 3

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine The Citroën BX was introduced in France in October of 1982 and
became available in the UK in September 1983. The original models
available in the range were the BX, BX 14 E, BX 14 RE, BX 16 RS and BX
16 TRS. The types of engine, transmission and equipment fitted being
dependent on the model and the body design being that of a Hatchback.
For the 1985 model year, the BX 19 GT was made available for the
driver requiring a higher performance model. Also in 1985, the BX
Leader replaced the BX and BX 14 models, the Leader being fitted with
the same engine and transmission as the BX 14. In the second half of
1985 the Estate was introduced, two versions being available, the BX
16 RS Estate and the BX 16 TRS Estate.
Changes for the 1987 model year included the introduction of the BX
16 RE Hatchback, the BX 19 GTi (fuel injection and ABS braking), the
BX 19 GTi 16v (16 valve engine) and the replacement for the BX 19 GT,
the BX 19 TRS. Also, a BX 19 TRS Estate fitted with automatic
transmission became available. The facia and instruments were
modified on all models, with round instruments being used. Other
aesthetic improvements were made to improve the external
appearance of certain models.For the 1988 model year, all BX 14 models were equipped with the
K1G engine with 2CA type 4 or 5-speed manual gearbox.
For the 1989 model year, BX 16 and BX 19 models were equipped
with the BE3 5-speed manual gearbox to replace the earlier BE1 5-
speed type.
In early 1990, BX 19 TZi Hatchback and Estate models became
available, these being equipped with catalytic converters.
In late 1992, BX 16 TXi catalytic converter equipped Hatchback and
Estate models were added to the range.
On all models, the engine and transmission is mounted transversely
and drives the front wheels through two driveshafts. The transmission
available (depending on model type) is a 4 or 5-speed manual gearbox
or a 4-speed automatic unit.
All models are extremely comfortable to ride in, thanks to the
hydropneumatic suspension and luxurious interior trim. The unique
design suspension is self-levelling and the ride height is maintained
automatically over all road conditions. A ground clearance lever inside
the car may be used to adjust the ride height when travelling over
rough ground, this also makes changing a roadwheel much simpler.
Your Citroën BX Manual
The aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your
vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work
must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage),
provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a
logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur.
However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work
yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car
into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps
most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a
garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.
The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then
the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step
sequence.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations
showing spark plug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils, who provided
lubrication data. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of Citroën
(UK) Limited and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to
Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools,
and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of
this Manual.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which
they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors
or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or
omissions from the information given.
0•4Introduction
The Citroën BX Team
Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and
enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The
team responsible for the creation of this book included:
Authors Ian Coomber
Christopher Rogers
Sub-editors Sophie Yar
Carole Turk
Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill
Bob Jex
Workshop manager Paul Buckland
Photo Scans John Martin
Paul Tanswell
Steve Tanswell
Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing
We hope the book will help you to get the maximum
enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine
maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s
reliability and preserve its resale value.
Citroën BX 19 GTiCitroën BX 16 TRS

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 0•8Roadside repairs
With the handbrake applied and engine
set to idle, move ground clearance
selector lever to maximum height position.
Wheel changing
Some of the details shown here will vary
according to model. For instance, the location
of the spare wheel and jack is not the same
on all cars. However, the basic principles
apply to all vehicles.Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by
other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of
passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by
the job in hand.
Finally...
MRemove the wheel chocks.
MStow the jack and tools in the correct
locations in the car.
M
Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just
fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a
pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to
the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to
the right pressure.
MHave the damaged tyre or wheel repaired
as soon as possible.
Use the wheel brace to slightly loosen the
bolts of the wheel to be removed.Locate the jack in the correct jacking
point and raise the vehicle so that the
wheel is clear of the ground.Undo and remove the wheel bolts and
remove the wheel.
Remove the spare wheel and jack.Turn the wheelbrace 6 to 8 turns to lower
the spare wheel carrier.123
4
Fit the spare wheel, nipping tight the
bolts. Lower to the ground and tighten
the bolts to correct torque setting.7Reset the ground clearance lever to
normal driving position before using the
vehicle.8
56
Preparation
MWhen a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
MPark on firm level ground, if possible,
and well out of the way of other traffic.MUse hazard warning lights if necessary.
MIf you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers of your presence.
MApply the handbrake.MChock the wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed – a couple of large
stones will do for this.
MIf the ground is soft, use a flat piece of
wood to spread the load under the jack.
Changing the wheel

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Roadside repairs0•9
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
MUse a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
MAlways turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so
that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.
MOnly attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided.MBefore being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission (Refer
to the Warningon the right).
MThe driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid
snatching.
MMake sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
MOnly drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drive
smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
MRemember that if the engine is not running,
there will be no hydraulic pressure (Refer to
the Warningon the right).Warning: BX, BX14 and Leader
with manual gearbox and all
automatic transmission models
should be towed with the front
wheels clear of the ground. If this is
impossible, restrict towing speed to 30
MPH and distance to 30 miles maximum.
Disregard of these instructions may cause
transmission damage due to lack of
lubrication. If in doubt, do not tow, or
transmission damage may result.
Once the reserve of hydraulic pressure has
been exhausted, the footbrake will not
work and the handbrake will have to be
used instead. Power steering assistance
(when applicable) will also be lost.
Towing
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid Power steering fluidOil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug......or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

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Engine oil level
Before you start
4Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
The correct oilModern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and
capacities”).
Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).
lAlways maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
Depending on engine type, the dipstick is
located either at the back or the front of
the engine (see “Underbonnet Check
Points” on pages 0•10 for exact location).
Withdraw the dipstick.Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the
upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN")
mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise
the level from the lower mark to the upper
mark.Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add
the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).
12
34
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.Car Care
lWith a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.lIt is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
Coolant level
The coolant level varies with engine
temperature. To check the level, wait until
the engine is cold then unscrew the filler
cap until a hissing sound is heard. When the
hissing ceases, indicating that all pressure is
released, slowly unscrew and remove the cap.
If more hissing is heard, wait until it stops
before unscrewing the cap completely. At all
times keep well away from the filler opening.On early BX models, the coolant depth,
when cold, must be 250 to 300 mm from
the top of the filler neck. The engine oil
dipstick can be used to check the level but
wipe it off before and after use. Later models
have a tubular dipstick in the filler neck, the
coolant must be between the MIN and MAX
marks on the dipstick.If necessary, add the recommended
mixture of water and antifreeze through
the filler orifice, until the coolant is up to
the maximum level. Refit the cap, ensuring it
is secure.123

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Tyre condition and pressure
It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is
completely effective, you may have the
expense of replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal thatthe tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,
and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
"kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the
whole car, the rear wheels could be out of
balance. Wheel balancing should be carried
out by a tyre dealer or garage.
Tread Depth - visual check
The original tyres have tread wear safety
bands (B), which will appear when the tread
depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The
band positions are indicated by a triangular
mark on the tyre sidewall (A).1Tread Depth - manual check
Alternatively, tread wear can be
monitored with a simple, inexpensive device
known as a tread depth indicator gauge.2Tyre Pressure Check
Check the tyre pressures regularly with
the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
The tyre pressures are shown on page 0•15.3
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear
Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre Wear
Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.
Uneven Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 0•16Lubricants, fluids and capacities
Component or system Lubricant or fluid Capacity
Engine:
BX and BX14 (with gearbox) Multigrade engine oil, viscosity 150A engine - 4.5 litres (oil change)
pre-August 1988 SAE 15W/40 or 20W/50, 150C engine - 5.0 litres (oil change)
(Duckhams QXR, QS,Hypergrade
Plus or Hypergrade)
BX (from August 88) As above K1G engine - 3.5 litres (with filter)
BX16 and BX19 As above171/159 engine 5.0 litres (oil change)
BX19 GTi 16v As above D6C engine - 5.3 litres (with filter)
Cooling systemEthylene - glycol based antifreeze D6A/C/D engine - 7.1 litres
(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Others - 6.5 litres
Coolant). Mixture in temperate climate
- 25% antifreeze to 75% water
Manual gearbox:
BX and BX14 pre-Aug. 88 N/A With engine
Later BX 14 (MA type) Gear oil, viscosity 75W/80W 2 litres
(Duckhams PT75W/80 Gear Oil)
BX16 and BX19 (Type BE1) As above 2 litres
BX16 and BX19 (Type BE3/5) As above Up to serial No. 2445106 - 2.2 litres
From serial No. 2445106 - 1.8 litres
Automatic transmissionDexron IID type ATF From dry - 6.5 litres
(Duckhams Uni-Matic) Drain and refill - 2.5 litres
Hydraulic systemGreen LHM fluid -
(Duckhams LHM fluid)
Fuel system97 to 99 RON leaded or 95 RON BX/BX14 - 44 or 52 litres
unleaded * BX16/BX19 - 52 or 66 litres
* Note: Models fitted with catalytic converters MUSTuse unleaded fuel at all times
Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The
higher the engine’s performance, the greater
the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as
well as optimise power and economy.
Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest
technical standards, meeting and exceeding
the demands of all modern engines.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction
Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine
which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly
cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special
additives, forms a molecular barrier between
moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat
build-up.
• Cooling hot spots
Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based
coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion
chamber and pistons, where temperatures
may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists intransferring the heat to the engine cooling
system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow
over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.
• Cleaning the inner engine
Oil washes away combustion by-products
(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,
transporting them to the oil filter, and holding
the smallest particles in suspension until they
are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams
oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,
and on the road.
Engine oil types
Mineral oilsare the “traditional” oils,
generally suited to older engines and cars not
used in harsh conditions. Duckhams
Hypergrade Plus and Hypergradeare well
suited for use in most popular family cars.
Diesel oilssuch as Duckhams Dieselare
specially formulated for Diesel engines,
including turbocharged models and 4x4s.
Synthetic oilsare the state-of-the-art in
lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at
a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS,
for use in ultra-high performance engines.
Semi-synthetic oilsoffer high performance
engine protection, but at less cost than full
synthetic oils. Duckhams QXRis an ideal choice
for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.
For help with technical
queries on lubricants,
call Duckhams Oils
on 0181 290 8207
Choosing your engine oil
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.