Group 8d DODGE DURANGO 1998 1.G Owner's Guide

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐGASOLINE ENGINES
PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSIS CHARTÐGASOLINE ENGINES
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL
NOT CRANK1. Weak or dead battery 1. Charge/Replace Battery. Refer to Group 8A,
Battery, for correct procedures. Check charging
system. Refer to Group 8C, Charging Systems, for
correct procedures.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections2. Clean/tighten suspect battery/starter connections
3. Faulty starter or related circuit(s) 3. Check starting system. Refer to Group 8B,
Starting Systems, for correct diagnostics/procedures
4. Seized accessory drive
component4. Remove accessory drive belt and attempt to start
engine. If engine starts, repair/replace seized
component.
5. Engine internal mechanical
failure or hydro-static lock5. Refer to Group 9, Engine, for correct diagnostics/
procedures
ENGINE CRANKS
BUT WILL NOT
START1. No spark 1. Check for spark. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System, for correct procedures.
2. No fuel 2. Perform fuel pressure test, and if necessary,
inspect fuel injector(s) and driver circuits. Refer to
Group 14, Fuel System, for correct procedures.
3. Low or no engine compression 3. Perform cylinder compression pressure test. Refer
to Group 9, Engine, for correct procedures.
ENGINE LOSS OF
POWER1. Worn or burned distributor rotor 1. Install new distributor rotor
2. Worn distributor shaft 2. Remove and repair distributor (Refer to Group 8D,
Ignition System
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark
plugs3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to Group 8D,
Ignition System)
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system10. Install new parts as necessary
11. Faulty ignition cables 11. Replace any cracked or shorted cables
12. Faulty ignition coil 12. Test and replace, as necessary (Refer to Group
8D, Ignition System)
ENGINE STALLS
OR ROUGH IDLE1. Carbon build-up on throttle plate 1. Remove throttle body and de-carbon. (Refer to
Group 14 for correct procedures)
2. Engine idle speed too low 2. Check Idle Air Control circuit. (Refer to Group 14,
Fuel System)
9 - 142 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs3. Replace or clean and re-gap spark plugs (Refer to
group 8D, Ignition System)
4. Worn or burned distributor rotor 4. Install new distributor rotor
5. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed5. Check for correct firing order or replace spark plug
cables. (Refer to Group 8D, Ignition System for
correct procedures.)
6. Faulty coil 6. Test and replace, if necessary (Refer to group 8D,
Ignition System)
7. Intake manifold vacuum leak 7. Inspect intake manifold gasket and vacuum hoses.
Replace if necessary
8. EGR valve leaking or stuck open 8. Test and replace, if necessary (Refer to group 25,
Emission Control Systems)
ENGINE MISSES
ON
ACCELERATION1. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs1. Replace spark plugs or clean and set gap. (Refer
to group 8D, Ignition System)
2. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed2. Replace or rewire secondary ignition cables. Refer
to Group 8D, Ignition System
3. Dirt in fuel system 3. Clean fuel system
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves 4. Install new valves
5. Faulty coil 5. Test and replace as necessary (refer to group 8D,
Ignition System)
MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS CHARTÐGASOLINE ENGINES
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES/
LIFTERS1. High or low oil level
in crankcase1. Check for correct oil level. Adjust oil level by draining or adding
as needed
2. Thin or diluted oil 2. Change oil (Refer to Engine Oil Service in this group)
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform oil pressure test. Refer to
this group for engine oil pressure test/specifications
4. Dirt in tappets/lash
adjusters4. Clean/replace hydraulic tappets/lash adjusters
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms and replace worn arms as
needed
7. Worn tappets/lash
adjusters7. Install new hydraulic tappets/lash adjusters
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and replace as necessary
9. Excessive runout of
valve seats or valve
faces9. Grind valves and seats
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 143
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CONNECTING
ROD NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level. (Refer to group 0, Lubrication and
Maintenance)
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform oil pressure test. Refer to
this group for engine oil pressure test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. Refer to this group for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
4. Excessive connecting
rod bearing clearanceMeasure bearings for correct clearance with plasti-gage. Repair
as necessary
5. Connecting rod
journal out of round5. Replace crankshaft or grind journals
6. Misaligned
connecting rods6. Replace bent connecting rods
MAIN BEARING
NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level. (Refer to group 0, Lubrication and
Maintenance)
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform oil pressure test. Refer to
this group for engine oil pressure test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. Refer to this group for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
4. Excessive main
bearing clearance4. Measure bearings for correct clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main
journal out of round or
worn6. Grind journals or replace crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or
torque converter7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL
PRESSURE1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure
sending unit2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace worn gears or oil pump assy
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity. Refer to this group for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
6. Excessive bearing
clearance6. Measure bearings for correct clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve
stuck7. Remove valve to inspect, clean and reinstall
8. Oil pump suction
tube loose, broken, bent
or clogged8. Inspect suction tube and clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover
warped or cracked9. Install new oil pump
9 - 144 5.9L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

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OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or
deteriorated gaskets1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener,
broken or porous metal
part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear
crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery
plug or cup plug4. Remove and reseal threaded plug. Replace cup style plug
5. Leaking intake 5. Replace gaskets
manifold cross-over
gaskets
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION
OR SPARK
PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. PCV System
malfunction1. Refer to group 25, Emission Control System for correct
operation
2. Intake manifold 2. Replace plenum
plenum pan gasket pan gasket
failure
3. Defective valve 3. Replace seals
stem seal(s)
4. Worn or broken
piston rings4. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings
5. Scuffed pistons/
cylinder walls5. Hone cylinder bores and replace pistons as required
6. Carbon in oil control
ring groove6. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
7. Worn valve guides 6. Repair as
necessary
8. Piston rings fitted 8. Remove rings and
too tightly in grooves check ring end gap
and side clearance.
Replace if necessary
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS, OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPMs, the area of the suspected
leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 145
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak-
age Test Diagnosis chart.
INSPECTION (ENGINE OIL LEAKS IN GENERAL)
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
(5) If the oil leak source is not positively identified
at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method as follows:
(6) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(7) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(8) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(9) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(10) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(11) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air sup-
ply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed
to next step.(12) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area
using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 147
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. Refer to
Oil Pressure in Engine Specifications for the proper
pressures.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas-
kets are used on the engine.DO NOT use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Care
must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.
Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor-
tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too
much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of
the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free
joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Each
have different properties and cannot be used inter-
changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally
black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture
in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This
material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.
It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure
if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expi-
ration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is
available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket
material cures in the absence of air when squeezed
between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use
on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some
instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove
all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure
gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on
a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free
of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is
removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be
applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm
(0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4
inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con-
tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a
shop towel. Components should be torqued in place
while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
It is important that the vehicle is operating to its
optimum performance level to maintain fuel economy
and the lowest emission levels. If vehicle is not oper-
ating to these standards, refer to Engine Diagnosis
outlined in this section. The following procedures can
assist in achieving the proper engine diagnosis.
(1) Test cranking amperage draw. Refer to Electri-
cal Group 8B, Cold Cranking Test.
Fig. 11 Leak-Down Tester
1 ± POINTER
2 ± WEIGHTED ARM
3 ± RAM
4 ± CUP
5 ± HANDLE
6 ± PUSH ROD
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 149
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (2) Check intake manifold bolt torque.
(3) Perform cylinder compression test. Refer to
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in the Engine
Diagnosis area of this section.
(4) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary and
adjust gap as specified in Electrical Group 8D.
Tighten to specifications.
(5) Test resistance of spark plug cables. Refer to
Electrical Group 8D, Spark Plug Cables.
(6) Inspect the primary wires. Test coil output volt-
age and primary resistance. Replace parts as neces-
sary. Refer to Electrical Group 8D, for specifications.
(7) Test fuel pump for pressure. Refer to Group 14,
Fuel System Specifications.
(8) The air filter elements should be replaced as
specified in Lubrication and Maintenance, Group 0.
(9) Inspect crankcase ventilation system as out
lined in Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance. For
emission controls see Group 25, Emission Controls
for service procedures.
(10) Road test vehicle as a final test.
ENGINE OIL
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight
mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase
lubricant. Engine failure can result.
API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
In gasoline engines, use an engine oil that is API
Service Grade Certified (Fig. 12). Standard engine oil
identification notations have been adopted to aid in
the proper selection of engine oil. The identifying
notations are located on the label of engine oil plastic
bottles and the top of engine oil cans. MOPAR only
provides engine oil that conforms to this certification.
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis-
cosity of engine oil. SAE 10W-30 specifies a multiple
viscosity engine oil. These are specified with a dualSAE viscosity grade which indicates the cold-to-hot
temperature viscosity range. When choosing an
engine oil, consider the range of temperatures the
vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change.
Select an engine oil that is best suited to your area's
particular ambient temperature range and variation
(Fig. 13).
ENERGY CONSERVING OIL
An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for
gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON-
SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con-
tainer.
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the right
front of the engine, left of the generator on 5.9L
engines (Fig. 14).
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
oil foaming and oil pressure loss can result.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
Fig. 12 Engine Oil Container Standard Notations
Fig. 13 Temperature/Engine Oil Viscosity
Recommendation
9 - 150 5.9L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
CYLINDER BOREÐHONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 17).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the
engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
Fig. 16 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 ± SEALING SURFACE
2 ± RUBBER GASKET
3 ± OIL FILTER
Fig. 17 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 ± CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 ± INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 152 5.9L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine REMOVALÐ4WD
On 4WD vehicles the engine front support brackets
attach directly to engine block and the axle housing.
The brackets provide a solid interconnection for these
units (Fig. 35) (Fig. 36). Engine must be supported
during any service procedures involving the front
support assemblies.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Install engine lifting (support) fixture.
(4) Remove front axle. (Refer to Group 3, Differen-
tial and Driveline in this publication.)
(5)Left mount insulator only.Remove starter
wires and starter motor assembly.
(6) Remove insulator to frame through bolt (Fig.
37).
(7) Raise engine slightly.
(8) Remove upper insulator to support bracket
stud nut and insulator to support through bolt.
(9) Remove engine mount insulator (Fig. 35) (Fig.
36).
(10) If engine support bracket is to be removed/re-
placed, remove support bracket to transmission bell
housing bolt(s) and three (3) support bracket to
engine block bolts. Remove support bracket (Fig. 35)
(Fig. 36).
Fig. 32 Engine Right Front Insulator MountÐ2WD
Vehicles
1 ± HEAT SHIELD
2 ± INSULATOR
Fig. 33 Engine Left Front Insulator MountÐ2WD
Vehicles
1 ± HEAT SHIELD
2 ± INSULATOR
Fig. 34 Engine Mount Insulator at Frame
1 ± NUT
2 ± INSULATOR
3 ± FRAME
4 ± THROUGH BOLT
DN5.9L ENGINE 9 - 159
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INSTALLATIONÐ4WD
(1) If engine support brackets were removed,
install them and their fasteners (Fig. 35) (Fig. 36).
Tighten support bracket to block bolts to 41 N´m (30
ft. lbs.). Tighten support bracket to transmission bell-
housing bolt(s) to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install Engine mount insulator and tighten
insulator to support bracket nut to 41 N´m (30 ft.
lbs.). Tighten insulator to support bracket through
bolt nut to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(3) Lower engine and install insulator to frame
through bolt and nut (Fig. 37). Tighten nut to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install starter motor and mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.).
(5) Connect starter wires.
(6) Remove engine lifting (support) fixture.
(7) Install front axle assembly (Refer to Group 3,
Differential and Driveline).
(8) Lower the vehicle.
(9) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
ENGINE REAR SUPPORT
REMOVALÐ2WD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Support the transmission with a jack.
(4) Remove engine support bracket and insulator
thru-bolt (Fig. 38).
(5) Raise the transmission and engine slightly.
(6) Remove stud nuts attaching insulator to cross-
member (Fig. 38). Remove insulator.
INSTALLATIONÐ2WD
(1) If the engine support bracket was removed,
position the bracket to the transmission extension
(Fig. 38). Tighten the bolts to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Install the insulator onto crossmember. Tighten
the stud nuts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs) torque.
(3) Lower the transmission and engine while align-
ing the engine support bracket to the insulator.
(4) Install thru-bolt in bracket and insulator.
Tighten thru-bolt nut to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
Fig. 35 Right Engine Mount Insulator and Support
BracketÐ4WD Vehicles
1 ± ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET
2 ± INSULATOR
3 ± FRONT AXLE
Fig. 36 Left Engine Mount Insulator and Support
BracketÐ4WD Vehicles
1 ± ENGINE SUPPORT BRACKET
2 ± INSULATOR
3 ± FRONT AXLE
9 - 160 5.9L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)