air filter DODGE DURANGO 1999 1.G Workshop Manual

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐPERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Refer to Group 8A, Battery/
Starter/ Charging System
Diagnostics.
4. Moisture on ignition wires and
distributor cap.4. Wipe wires and cap clean and
dry.
5. Faulty ignition cables. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Faulty coil or control unit. 6. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
7. Incorrect spark plug gap. 7. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
8. Incorrect ignition timing. 8. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
9. Dirt or water in fuel system. 9. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
10. Faulty fuel pump, relay or
wiring.10. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Idle speed set to low. 1. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
2. Idle mixture to lean or to rich. 2. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
4. Worn or burned distributor rotor. 4. Replace distributor rotor.
5. Incorrect ignition wiring. 5. Install correct wiring.
6. Faulty coil. 6. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
7. EGR valve leaking. 7. Refer to Group 25, Emissions
Control System.
8. Incorrect cam timing. 8. Refer to Valve Timing in this
section.
9 - 8 4.7L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Incorrect ignition timing. 1. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
2. Worn or burned distributor rotor. 2. Replace distributor rotor.
3. Worn distributor shaft. 3. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
4. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.4. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
5. Dirt or water in fuel system. 5. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
6. Faulty fuel pump. 6. Refer to Group 14, Fuel System.
7. Blown cylinder head gasket. 7. Replace cylinder head gasket.
8. Low compression. 8. Test compression, repair as
necessary.
9. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 9. Replace as necessary.
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.10. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
11. Faulty ignition cables. 11. Replace as necessary.
12. Faulty coil. 12. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
13. Incorrect cam timing. 13. Refer to Valve Timing in this
section.
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
2. Incorrect ignition timing. 2. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
3. Dirt in fuel system. 3. Clean fuel system.
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 4. Replcae as necessary.
5. Faulty coil. 5. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
6. Incorrect cam timing. 6. Refer to Valve Timing in this
section.
ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED 1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
2. Worn Distributor Shaft. 2. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
3. Worn or burned distributor rotor. 3. Replace distributor rotor.
4. Faulty coil. 4. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
5. Incorrect ignition timing. 5. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
System.
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Incorrect cam timing. 7. Refer to Valve Timing in this
section.
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 9
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐLUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary.
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan.
5. Timing chain cover seal,
damaged or misaligned.5. Replace seal.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Clean or replace relief valve.
9. Oil pump suction tube loose or
damaged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves.
5. Leaking intake gasket. 5. Replace intake gaskets.
6. Leaking valve guide seals. 6. Replace valve guide seals.
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible thecrankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER NOISE
DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
9 - 14 4.7L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 3) and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb IdleÐ25 Kpa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpmÐ170 - 550 KPa (25 - 80 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas-
kets are used on the engine.DO NOT use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Care
must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.
Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor-
tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too
much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of
the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free
joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Eachhave different properties and cannot be used inter-
changeably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally
black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture
in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This
material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.
It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure
if over aged. Always inspect the package for the expi-
ration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is
available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket
material cures in the absence of air when squeezed
between smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use
on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some
instances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove
all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure
gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on
a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free
of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is
removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be
applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm
(0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4
inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con-
tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a
shop towel. Components should be torqued in place
while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a
Fig. 3 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
1 ± BELT
2 ± OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 ± OIL FILTER
4 ± ELEC. CONNECTOR
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
ENGINE OIL FILTER CHANGE
FILTER SPECIFICATION
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopar or equivalent oil filter
be used.OIL FILTER REMOVAL
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 7) to
remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil
filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil
spill. Remove filter from vehicle.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
OIL FILTER INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 8) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Fig. 7 Oil FilterÐ4.7L Engine
1 ± ENGINE OIL FILTER
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 17
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
CYLINDER BOREÐHONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 9).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the
engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
Fig. 8 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 ± SEALING SURFACE
2 ± RUBBER GASKET
3 ± OIL FILTER
Fig. 9 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 ± CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 ± INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 18 4.7L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (i.e. coolant,
fuel, oil, etc.).
(7) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate
the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil.
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
VALVE SERVICE
REFACING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be
reworked, provided that correct angle and seat
width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head
must be replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves and valve seats, it is
important that the correct size valve guide pilot be
used for reseating stones. A true and complete sur-
face must be obtained.
(1) Using a suitable dial indicator measure the
center of the valve seat Total run out must not
exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
(2) Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the
valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head,
while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the
valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face.
If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the
valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree
stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of
the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree
stone.
(3) When the seat is properly positioned the width
of the intake seat must be 1.75 ± 2.36 mm (0.0689 ±
0.0928 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 ± 2.32
mm (0.0673 ± 0.0911 in.).
(4) Check the valve spring installed height after
refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for
both intake and exhaust valve springs must not
exceed 41.44 mm (1.6315 in.).
(5) The valve seat and valve face must maintain a
face angle of 44.5 ± 45 degrees angle.
ENGINE TIMINGÐVERIFICATION
CAUTION: The 4.7L is a non free-wheeling design
engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.
NOTE: Components referred to as left hand or right
hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside
the vehicle.
NOTE: The blue link plates on the chains and the
dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line
up during the timing verification procedure. The
blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots
only when re-timing the complete timing drive.
Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot
alignment is no longer valid.
Engine base timing can be verified by the following
procedure:
(1) Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to the
procedure in this section.
(2) Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the
front cover (Fig. 11). Rotate the crankshaft until the
mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the
TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at
TDC.
Fig. 10 Valve Assembly Configuration
1 ± VALVE LOCKS (3±BEAD)
2 ± RETAINER
3 ± VALVE STEM OIL SEAL
4 ± INTAKE VALVE
5 ± EXHAUST VALVE
6 ± VALVE SPRING
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 19
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (9) Install A/C compressor and fasteners.
(10) Install accessory drive belt.
(11) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(12) Install battery and connect cables.
(13) Fill cooling system.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable for battery.
(2) Hoist vehicle.
(3) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Remove the front two exhaust heat shield
retaining fasteners. Raise vehicle and remove the
fasteners at rear of heat shield.
(6) Remove heat shield (Fig. 53).
(7) Lower vehicle and remove the upper exhaust
manifold retaining bolts (Fig. 53).
(8) Raise vehicle and remove the lower exhaust
manifold retaining bolts (Fig. 53).
(9) Remove exhaust manifold and gasket (Fig. 53).
Manifold is removed from below the engine compart-
ment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below
engine compartment.
(2) Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners (Fig.
53). DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
(3) Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust mani-
fold fasteners (Fig. 53). Tighten all manifold bolts
starting at center and working outward to 25 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(4) Install exhaust manifold heat shield (Fig. 53).
Tighten fasteners to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen
45 degrees.
(5) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
REMOVAL
LEFT SIDE COVER
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the resonator assemble and air inlet
hose.
(3) Disconnect injector connectors and un-clip the
injector harness.
(4) Route injector harness in front of cylinder head
cover.(5) Disconnect the left side breather tube and
remove the breather tube.
(6) Remove the cylinder head cover mounting
bolts.
(7) Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components includ-
ing the wire harness to rest on or against the cylin-
der head cover. Prolonged contact with other
objects may wear a hole in the engine cylinder head
cover.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2) Install cylinder head cover and hand start all
fasteners. Verify that all studs are in the correct loca-
tion shown in (Fig. 54).
(3) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left side breather and connect breather
tube.
(5) Connect injector electrical connectors and injec-
tor harness retaining clips.
(6) Install the resonator and air inlet hose.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
REMOVAL
RIGHT SIDE COVER
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Drain cooling system, below the level of the
heater hoses. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(4) Remove accessory drive belt.
(5) Remove air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts and move compressor to the left.
(6) Remove heater hoses.
(7) Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
(8) Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ven-
tilation (PCV) hose.
(9) Remove oil fill tube.
(10) Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and
move away from cylinder head cover.
(11) Remove right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
9 - 38 4.7L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components includ-
ing the wire harness to rest on or against the
engine cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with
other objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head
cover.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2) Install cylinder head cover and hand start all
fasteners. Verify that all double ended studs are in
the correct location shown in (Fig. 55).
(3) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs).
(4) Install right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.(5) Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connec-
tors and harness retaining clips.
(6) Install the oil fill tube.
(7) Install PCV hose.
(8) Install heater hoses.
(9) Install air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts.
(10) Install accessory drive belt
(11) Fill Cooling system
(12) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(13) Connect battery negative cable.
ROCKER ARMS
REMOVAL
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to
prevent accidental starter engagement.
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to Cyl-
inder Head Cover in this section.
(2) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 3 and 5
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
exhaust stroke.
(3) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 2 and 8
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(4) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 4 and 6
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(5) For rocker arm removal on cylinders 1 and 7
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(6) Using special tool 8516 press downward on the
valve spring, remove rocker arm (Fig. 56).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Make sure the rocker arms are installed
with the concave pocket over the lash adjusters.
Failure to do so may cause severe damage to the
rocker arms and/or lash adjusters.
NOTE: Coat the rocker arms with clean engine oil
prior to installation.
(1) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 3 and
5 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
exhaust stroke.
(2) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 2 and
8 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
compression stroke.
(3) For rocker arm installation on cylinders 4 and
6 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC
compression stroke.
Fig. 54 Cylinder Head CoverÐLeft
ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE
1 Cover
Fasteners12 N´m (105 in. lbs.)
Fig. 55 Cylinder Head CoverÐRight
ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE
1 Cover Fasteners 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.)
9 - 40 4.7L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)