oil level DODGE DURANGO 1999 1.G Workshop Manual
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Page 10 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐMECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and
Maintenance.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive
wear.
4. Dirt in lash adjusters. 4. Clean lash adjusters.
5. Bent push rods. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn rocker arms. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Worn tappets 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Worn valve guides. 8. Refer to Valve Service in this
section.
9. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.9. Service valves and valve seats.
Refer to Valve Service in this
section.
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and
maintenance.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and
maintenance.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.5. Service or replace crankshaft.
6. Misaligned connecting rods. 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and
maintenance.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and
maintenance.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check No. 3 main bearing for
wear on flanges.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.7. Tighten to correct torque
9 - 10 4.7L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Page 11 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine SERVICE DIAGNOSISÐLUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary.
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan.
5. Timing chain cover seal,
damaged or misaligned.5. Replace seal.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Clean or replace relief valve.
9. Oil pump suction tube loose or
damaged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves.
5. Leaking intake gasket. 5. Replace intake gaskets.
6. Leaking valve guide seals. 6. Replace valve guide seals.
INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Page 12 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disable the fuel system. (Refer to Group 14,
Fuel System for the correct procedure)
(5) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(6) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(7) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
Refer to Engine Specifications for the correct
engine compression pressures.
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE DIAGNOSIS
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in this
section. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking
between adjacent cylinders will result in approxi-
mately a 50±70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
(1) Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
(2) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
(3) Remove the spark plugs.
(4) Remove the oil filler cap.
(5) Remove the air cleaner.
(6)
Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's
instructions. The shop air source for testing should main-
tain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maxi-
mum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
(7) Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to the Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leak-
age Test Diagnosis chart.
9 - 12 4.7L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Page 14 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
REAR SEAL AREA LEAKSÐINSPECTION
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible thecrankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper
replacement procedures.
HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER NOISE
DIAGNOSIS
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
9 - 14 4.7L ENGINEDN
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Page 16 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE OIL
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION
CAUTION: Do not use non-detergent or straight
mineral oil when adding or changing crankcase
lubricant. Engine failure can result.
API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED
Use an engine oil that is API Service Grade Certi-
fied. MOPARtprovides engine oils that conform to
this service grade.
SAE VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the vis-
cosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multi-
ple viscosities such as 5W-30 or 10W-30 in the 4.7L
engines. These are specified with a dual SAE viscos-
ity grade which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature
viscosity range. Select an engine oil that is best
suited to your particular temperature range and vari-
ation (Fig. 4).
ENERGY CONSERVING OIL
An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for
gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CON-
SERVING is located on the label of an engine oil con-
tainer.
CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION
Standard engine oil identification notations have
been adopted to aid in the proper selection of engine
oil. The identifying notations are located on the label
of engine oil plastic bottles and the top of engine oil
cans (Fig. 5).
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)
The engine oil level indicator is located at the right
rear of the engine on the 4.7L engines. (Fig. 6).
Fig. 4 Temperature/Engine Oil ViscosityÐ4.7L
Engine
Fig. 5 Engine Oil Container Standard Notations
Fig. 6 Engine Oil Dipstick 4.7L Engine
1 ± TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK
2 ± ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
3 ± ENGINE OIL FILL CAP
9 - 16 4.7L ENGINEDN
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
Page 17 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800
kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhib-
ited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five
minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil
level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD
and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if
damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil described in this sec-
tion.
(8) Install oil fill cap.
(9) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(10) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
ENGINE OIL FILTER CHANGE
FILTER SPECIFICATION
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopar or equivalent oil filter
be used.OIL FILTER REMOVAL
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 7) to
remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil
filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil
spill. Remove filter from vehicle.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
OIL FILTER INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 8) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle
engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this
section.REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Fig. 7 Oil FilterÐ4.7L Engine
1 ± ENGINE OIL FILTER
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 17
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
Page 35 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine INTAKE MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(4) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components: Refer to FUEL SYSTEM for compo-
nent locations.
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
(5) Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster
hose, speed control servo hose, positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(6) Disconnect generator electrical connections.
(7) Disconnect air conditioning compressor electri-
cal connections.
(8) Disconnect left and right radio suppressor
straps.
(9) Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
(10) Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt
and ground strap.
(11) Bleed fuel system. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM.
(12) Remove fuel rail.
(13) Remove throttle body assembly and mounting
bracket.
(14) Drain cooling system below coolant tempera-
ture level. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(15) Remove the heater hoses from the engine
front cover and the heater core.
(16) Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes
from intake manifold (Fig. 50).
(17) Remove coolant temperature sensor. Refer to
FUEL SYSTEM.
(18) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
reverse order of tightening sequence (Fig. 51).
(19) Remove intake manifold.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold gaskets.
(2) Install intake manifold.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts and
tighten in sequence shown in (Fig. 51) to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
(5) Install throttle body assembly.
(6) Install throttle cable bracket.
(7) Connect throttle cable and speed control cable
to throttle body.
(8) Install fuel rail.
(9) Install ignition coil towers.
Fig. 48 Body Ground StrapÐRight Side Removal /
Installation
1 ± NUT
2 ± A/C ACCUMULATOR
3 ± GROUND STRAP
Fig. 49 Body Ground StrapÐLeft Side Removal /
Installation
1 ± NUT
2 ± GROUND STRAP
3 ± BRAKE BOOSTER
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 35
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
Page 36 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (10) Position and install heater hoses and tubes
onto intake manifold.
(11) Install the heater hoses to the heater core and
engine front cover.(12) Connect electrical connectors for the following
components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Ignition coil towers
²Fuel injectors
(13) Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and
ground strap.
(14) Connect generator electrical connections.
(15) Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster
hose, Speed control servo hose, Positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) hose.
(16) Fill cooling system.
(17) Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable for battery.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM.
(4) Remove A/C compressor from mounting and set
aside.
(5) Remove A/C accumulator support bracket fas-
tener.
(6) Drain coolant below heater hose level. Refer to
COOLING SYSTEM.
(7) Remove heater hoses at engine.
(8) Remove fasteners attaching exhaust manifold
heat shield.
(9) Remove heat shield.
(10) Remove upper exhaust manifold attaching fas-
teners.
(11) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(12) Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
(13) Remove fasteners attaching starter. Move
starter aside.
(14) Remove lower exhaust manifold attaching fas-
teners.
(15) Remove exhaust manifold and gasket (Fig.
52). Manifold is removed from below the engine com-
partment.
Fig. 50 Heater Hoses and Tubes Removal /
Installation
1 ± HEATER HOSES AND TUBES
2 ± ROUTING/RETAINING CLIPS
Fig. 51 Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
9 - 36 4.7L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
Page 38 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (9) Install A/C compressor and fasteners.
(10) Install accessory drive belt.
(11) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(12) Install battery and connect cables.
(13) Fill cooling system.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable for battery.
(2) Hoist vehicle.
(3) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Remove the front two exhaust heat shield
retaining fasteners. Raise vehicle and remove the
fasteners at rear of heat shield.
(6) Remove heat shield (Fig. 53).
(7) Lower vehicle and remove the upper exhaust
manifold retaining bolts (Fig. 53).
(8) Raise vehicle and remove the lower exhaust
manifold retaining bolts (Fig. 53).
(9) Remove exhaust manifold and gasket (Fig. 53).
Manifold is removed from below the engine compart-
ment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below
engine compartment.
(2) Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners (Fig.
53). DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
(3) Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust mani-
fold fasteners (Fig. 53). Tighten all manifold bolts
starting at center and working outward to 25 N´m
(18 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(4) Install exhaust manifold heat shield (Fig. 53).
Tighten fasteners to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen
45 degrees.
(5) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
REMOVAL
LEFT SIDE COVER
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the resonator assemble and air inlet
hose.
(3) Disconnect injector connectors and un-clip the
injector harness.
(4) Route injector harness in front of cylinder head
cover.(5) Disconnect the left side breather tube and
remove the breather tube.
(6) Remove the cylinder head cover mounting
bolts.
(7) Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components includ-
ing the wire harness to rest on or against the cylin-
der head cover. Prolonged contact with other
objects may wear a hole in the engine cylinder head
cover.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2) Install cylinder head cover and hand start all
fasteners. Verify that all studs are in the correct loca-
tion shown in (Fig. 54).
(3) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Install left side breather and connect breather
tube.
(5) Connect injector electrical connectors and injec-
tor harness retaining clips.
(6) Install the resonator and air inlet hose.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
REMOVAL
RIGHT SIDE COVER
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Drain cooling system, below the level of the
heater hoses. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(4) Remove accessory drive belt.
(5) Remove air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts and move compressor to the left.
(6) Remove heater hoses.
(7) Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
(8) Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ven-
tilation (PCV) hose.
(9) Remove oil fill tube.
(10) Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and
move away from cylinder head cover.
(11) Remove right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
9 - 38 4.7L ENGINEDN
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
Page 67 of 193
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine (7) Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal
is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and pis-
ton into cylinder bore and carefully position connect-
ing rod guides over crankshaft journal.
(8) Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a ham-
mer handle. While at the same time, guide connect-
ing rod into position on rod journal.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
(9) Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with
engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing.
Tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90É.
(10) Install the following components: (Refer to
procedures in this section)
²Cylinder head(s).
²Timing chain and cover.
²Cylinder head covers.
²Oil pan and gasket/windage tray.
(11) Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to cor-
rect level.
(12) Connect negative cable to battery.
CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. Refer to Engine Assembly
in this section for procedure.
(2) Remove the engine oil pump. Refer to Oil
Pump in this section for procedure.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.
(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the three stud bolts for installation.
(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use
these points only. The pry points are on both the
left and right sides, only the left side is shown.
(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 117) to
loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the crankshaft.
(9) Remove the crankshaft tone wheel.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod
bearing bores and main bearing bores for scoring,
blueing or severe scratches. Further disassembly
may be required.
Fig. 116 Piston and Connecting Rod Positioning
1 ± MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF PISTON
2 ± OIL SLINGER SLOT
DN4.7L ENGINE 9 - 67
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)