coolant DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Owners Manual
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Page 1157 of 2627

CONNECTOR NAME/NUMBER COLOR LOCATION FIG.
Data Link Connector - Engine
(Diesel)BK Near T/O for Water In Fuel Sensor N/S
Dome Lamp BK Center of Headliner N/S
Door Ajar Switch-Driver (Base) BK Left Front Door 41
Door Ajar Switch-Left Rear (Base) BK Left Rear Door 43
Door Ajar Switch-Right Rear (Base) BK Right Rear Door 43
Door Lock Motor/Ajar Switch-Driver
(Except Base)BK Left Front Door 41
Door Lock Motor/Ajar Switch-Left
Rear (Except Base)BK Left Rear Door 43
Door Lock Motor/Ajar Switch-
PassengerBK Right Front Door 42
Door Lock Motor/Ajar Switch-Right
Rear (Except Base)BK Right Rear Door 43
Door Lock Switch-Passenger BL In Right Front Door 42
Driver Airbag Squib BK In Steering Column N/S
Driver Blend Door Actuator (Dual
Zone)BK Right Side of HVAC N/S
Driver Door Module C1 BL In Left Front Door 41
Driver Door Module C2 BL In Left Front Door 41
EGR Solenoid Right Front Engine 9
Electric Brake Provision Rear of Engine 22, 24
Engine Control Module C1 BK Left Engine 10
Engine Control Module C2 BK Left Engine 10
Engine Coolant Temperature
SensorBK Near Generator 6
Engine Oil Pressure Switch BK Lower Left Side of Engine 6, 9
Evap/Purge Solenoid BK Left Fender Side Shield 23, 25
Evaporator Temperature Sensor BK Right Side of HVAC N/S
Fog Lamp-Left WT Left Front Facia N/S
Fog Lamp-Right WT Right Front Facia N/S
Fuel Control Actuator (Diesel) BK Left Rear Engine N/S
Fuel Heater (Diesel) BK Left Side Engine 10
Fuel Injector No. 1 BK At Fuel Injector 6
Fuel Injector No. 2 BK At Fuel Injector 3
Fuel Injector No. 3 BK At Fuel Injector 6
Fuel Injector No. 4 BK At Fuel Injector 3
Fuel Injector No. 5 BK At Fuel Injector 6
Fuel Injector No. 6 BK At Fuel Injector 3
Fuel Injector No. 7 BK At Fuel Injector 6
Fuel Injector No. 8 BK At Fuel Injector 3
Fuel Pump Module LT GY At Fuel Tank 50
Fuel Pump Motor (Diesel) BK Left Side Engine 10
Generator BK Front of Engine 6, 9, 10
8W - 91 - 4 8W-91 CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATIONDR
CONNECTOR/GROUND/SPLICE LOCATION (Continued)
Page 1231 of 2627

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON
RINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON
RINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES
& SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
5. Leaking valve guide seals. 5. Replace valve guide seals.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Disable the fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DESCRIPTION).
(4) Remove the ASD relay (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUT DOWN
RELAY - REMOVAL).
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(7) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
(1) Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
(2) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
(3) Remove the spark plugs.
(4) Remove the oil filler cap.
(5) Remove the air cleaner hose.
(6) Calibrate the tester according to the manufac-
turer's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
(7) Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compres-
sion,While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART.
9 - 8 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1232 of 2627

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and MopartGasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1233 of 2627

of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET
SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
²Metal scraper
²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 2)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 2)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 2)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for
reinstallation.
(3) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove radiator core support bracket.
(5) Remove fan shroud with viscous fan assembly.
(6) Remove drive belt.
(7) Remove A/C compressor and secure away from
engine.
(8) Remove generator and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the
P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
(9) Remove power steering pump with lines
attached and secure away from engine.
(10) Drain cooling system.
(11) Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
Fig. 2 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
9 - 10 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1234 of 2627

(12) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(13) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(14) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(15) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(16) Remove radiator/cooling module assembly.
(17) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(18) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(19) Remove coil over plugs.
(20) Release fuel rail pressure.
(21) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: It is not necessary to release the quick con-
nect fitting from the fuel supply line for engine
removal.
(22) Remove the PCV hose.
(23) Remove the breather hoses.
(24) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(25) Disconnect knock sensors.
(26) Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
(27) Remove intake manifold.
(28) Install engine lifting fixture,special tool#8247,
using original fasteners from the removed intake
manifold, and fuel rail. Torque to factory specifica-
tions.
NOTE: Recheck bolt torque for engine lift plate
before removing engine.
(29) Secure the left and right engine wiring har-
nesses away from engine.
(30) Raise vehicle.
(31) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(32) Disconnect crankshaft postion sensor.
(33) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable, if equipped.
(34) Disconnect the front propshaft at the front
differential and secure out of way.
NOTE: It is necessary to disconnect the front prop-
shaft for access to the starter and left side exhaust
flange.(35) Remove the starter.
(36) Remove the ground straps from the left and
right side of the block.
(37) Disconnect the right and left exhaust pipes at
the manifolds and from the crossover, and remove
from the vehicle.
NOTE: The exhaust clamps at the manifolds cannot
be reused. New clamps must be used or leaks may
occur.
(38) Remove the structural cover.
(39) Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark
location for reassembly.
(40) Remove transmission bellhousing to engine
bolts.
(41) Remove left and right engine mount thru
bolts.
(42) Lower the vehicle.
(43) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
(44) Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine
lift plate.
(45) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the engine in the vehicle.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
onto engine.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Install the transmission bellhousing to engine
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
(6) Install the torque convertor bolts.
(7) Connect the ground straps on the left and right
side of the engine.
(8) Install the starter.
(9) Connect the crankshaft position sensor.
(10) Install the engine block heater power cable, if
equipped.
CAUTION: The structural cover requires a specific
torque sequence. Failure to follow this sequence
may cause severe damage to the cover.
(11) Install the structural cover.
NOTE: New clamps must be used on exhaust man-
ifold flanges. Failure to use new clamps may result
in exhaust leaks.
(12) Install the left and right exhaust pipes.
(13) Connect the left and right oxygen sensors.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Remove the engine lift plate.
(16) Connect the knock sensors.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 11
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1235 of 2627

(17) Connect the engine to body ground straps at
the left side of the cowl.
(18) Install the intake manifold.
(19) Install the engine oil dipstick tube.
(20) Install the power brake booster vacuum hose.
(21) Install the breather hoses.
(22) Install the PCV hose.
(23) Install the fuel rail.
(24) Install the coil over plugs.
(25) Connect the engine wiring harness at the fol-
lowing points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(26) Reinstall the radiator/cooling module assem-
bly.
(27) Connect lower radiator hose.
(28) Connect upper radiator hose.
(29) Connect throttle and speed control cables.
(30) Install the heater hose assembly.
(31) Install coolant recovery bottle.
(32) Install the power steering pump.
(33) Install the generator.
(34) Install the A/C compressor.
(35) Install the drive belt.
(36) Install the fan shroud with the viscous fan
assembly.
(37) Install the radiator core support bracket.
(38) Install the air cleaner assembly.
(39) Refill the engine cooling system.
(40) Recharge the air conditioning.
(41) Install the hood.
(42) Check and fill engine oil.
(43) Connect the battery negative cable.
(44) Start the engine and check for leaks.SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - 3.7L ENGINE
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Type 90É SOHC V6 12 Valve
Number of
Cylinders4
Firing Order 1-6-5-4-3-2
Lead Cylinder No. 1 Left Bank
Compression
Ratio9.1:1
Max. Variation
Between
Cylinders25%
Metric Standard
Displacement 3.7 Liters 226 Cubic
Inches
Bore 93.0 mm 3.66 in.
Stroke 90.8 mm 3.40 in.
Horsepower 210@5200 RPM
Torque 225ft. lbs.@4200 PRM
Compression
Pressure1172-1551 kPa 170-225 psi
CYLINDER BLOCK
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Bore Diameter 93.0 .0075
mm3.6619 0.0003
in.
Out of Round
(MAX)0.076 mm 0.003 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.051 mm 0.002 in.
9 - 12 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)
Page 1244 of 2627

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL
Filter Element Only
Housing removal is not necessary for element (fil-
ter) replacement.
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 3) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Pry over 4 spring clips (Fig. 3) from housing
cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
(3) Release housing cover from locating tabs on
housing (Fig. 3) and remove cover.
(4) Remove air cleaner element (filter) from hous-
ing.
(5) Clean inside of housing before replacing ele-
ment.
Housing Assembly
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 3) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Lift entire housing assembly from 4 locating
pins (Fig. 4).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install filter element into housing.
(2) Position housing cover into housing locating
tabs (Fig. 3).(3) Pry up 4 spring clips (Fig. 3) and lock cover to
housing.
(4) Install air duct to air cleaner cover and tighten
hose clamp to 3 N´m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) If any other hose clamps were removed from
air intake system, tighten them to 3.4 N´m (30 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) If any bolts were removed from air resonator
housing or air intake tubing, tighten them to 4.5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
Fig. 3 AIR CLEANER HOUSING COVER
1 - CLAMP
2 - AIR DUCT
3 - AIR CLEANER COVER
4 - LOCATING TABS
5 - CLIPS (4)
Fig. 4 AIR CLEANER HOUSING
1 - AIR CLEANER HOUSING ASSEMBLY
2 - LOCATING PINS (4)
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 21
Page 1245 of 2627

²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.(6) Remove the intake manifold(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the master cylinder and booster assem-
bly(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANI-
CAL/POWER BRAKE BOOSTER - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assem-
bly(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN
- REMOVAL).
(10) Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(11) Remove the power steering pump and set
aside.
(12) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper tim-
ing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig.
5).
(13) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 6). Rotate the crank-
shaft one turn if necessary.
(14) Remove the crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(15) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Fig. 5 Engine Top Dead Center
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
9 - 22 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)
Page 1256 of 2627

(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the fan shroud(Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(10) Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(11) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing
mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark.
(12) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft
one turn if necessary.
(13) Remove the crankshaft damper(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(14) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(15) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Hold-
ing Fixture.NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(16) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
(17) Remove the right side secondary chain ten-
sioner(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(18) Remove the cylinder head access plug.
(19) Remove the right side secondary chain
guide(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed,
torque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(20) Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft
drive gear.
CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe
damage to the valve train can occur.
CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at
the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to
remove the cylinder head without removing these
four bolts.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel
can result in a vehicle no start condition.
NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder
block with twelve bolts.
(21) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder
head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 33
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)
Page 1261 of 2627

VALVE GUIDE SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and
incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The
integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrica-
tion control to the valve stems.
VALVE SPRINGS
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength
chrome silicon steel. There are different springs for
intake and exhaust applications. The exhaust spring
has an external damper. The valve spring seat is
integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive
type seal to control lubrication.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
(3) Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the
valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
(4) Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the
valves in place when the spring is removed.
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed
in the same manner; this procedure only covers
one valve seal and valve spring.
(5) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
(6) Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(7) Remove the valve spring compressor.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between
intake and exhaust.
(8) Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
(9) Remove the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed
in the same manner; this procedure only covers
one valve seal and valve spring.
(1) Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the
valves in place while the spring is installed.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between
intake and exhaust.
(2) Install the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between
intake and exhaust.
(3) Install the spring retainer, and the spring.
(4) Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, compress the valve spring.
(5) Install the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care
when releasing the valve spring compressor.
(6) Remove the valve spring compressor.
(7) Disconnect the shop air to the cylinder.
(8) Install the spark plug for the cylinder the valve
spring and seal was installed on.
(9) Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
(10) Install the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
9 - 38 ENGINE - 3.7LDR