torque DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 128 ENGINE - 4.7LDR

NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use
these points only. The pry points are on both the
left and right sides, only the left side is shown.
(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 56) to
loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the crankshaft.
(9) Remove the crankshaft target wheel.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bear-
ing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blue-
ing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may
be required.
If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the
cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston
and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder
block main bearing bores show damage the engine
must be replaced.
(1) If required, remove the main bearing halves
from the cylinder block and bedplate.(2) Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block
sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all
oil and sealant residue.
(3) Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for
cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition
exists the engine must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scor-
ing, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition
exist replace the thrust washer.
(5) Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for
splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces.
Replace gasket as necessary.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for proper
bearing selections.
(1) Lubricate upper main bearing halves with
clean engine oil.
CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not
to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
NOTE: Apply sealant to the target wheel retaining
screws prior to installation.
(2) Install the crankshaft target wheel. Torque the
mounting screws to 15 N´m (12 ft. lbs.).
(3) Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
(4) Install the thrust washers (Fig. 57).
Fig. 56 Bedplate Pry Point Location
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - BEDPLATE
3 - PRY POINT
Fig. 57 Crankshaft Thrust Washer Installation
1 - CRANKSHAFT THRUST WASHER
9 - 132 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mateing
surface must be coated with sealant prior to instal-
lation. Failure to do so will cause severe oil leaks.
NOTE: The installation time to install the bedplate
after the sealant has been applied is critical.
NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder
block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or
other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing
surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or
oil leaks.
(5) Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) (Fig. 58) bead of
MopartGen II Silicone Rubber Adhesive sealant to
the cylinder block-to-bedplate mating surface as
shown (Fig. 59).(6) Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals
with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto
the cylinder block.
NOTE: Lubricate the bedplate retaining bolts with
clean engine oil prior to installation.
(7) Install the bedplate retaining bolts, making
sure to place the stud bolts in the correct location,
Torque the bolts in the sequence shown (Fig. 60).
²Tighten boltsA± Lto 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
²Tighten bolts1±10to 2.8 N´m (25 in. lbs.)
²Turn bolts1±10an additional 90É.
²Tighten boltsA1± A6to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
(8) Measure crankshaft end play. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Install the connecting rods and measure side
clearance. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 58 Cutting Aplicator to Achieve 2.5mm (0.100
in.) Bead
1 - CUT HERE
Fig. 59 Cylinder Block-to-Bedplate Sealent Bead
Location
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - SEALANT BEAD LOCATION
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 133
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

(10) Position the oil pan gasket/windage tray,
using a new o-ring, install the oil pickup tube.
Torque the bolt to 28N´n (20 ft. lbs.) torque the nuts
to 28N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install the oil pan. Torque the retaining bolts
to 15 N´m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig.
61).
(12) Install the engine (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
INSTALLATION).CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARING - FITTING
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER
(CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)
Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal
with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90É
apart at each end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004
inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.002
inch). Compare the measured diameter with the jour-
nal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting
Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified
bearing-to-journal clearance.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
The main bearings are ªselect fitº to achieve proper
oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crank-
shaft position sensor target wheel has grade identifi-
cation marks stamped into it (Fig. 62). These marks
are read from left to right, corresponding with jour-
Fig. 60 Bedplate Tightening Sequence
1 - BEDPLATE2 - CYLINDER BLOCK
Fig. 61 Oil Pan Tightening Sequence
9 - 134 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506 (Fig. 67), remove the
crankshaft rear oil seal.
Fig. 67 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 137

(4) Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod
Guides into connecting rod bolt threads (Fig. 74).
(5) The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore
surface with an raised ªFº indicating installation
position. This mark must be pointing toward the
front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connect-
ing rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the engine
(Fig. 75).
(6) Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with
engine oil.
(7) Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal
is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and pis-
ton into cylinder bore and carefully position connect-
ing rod guides over crankshaft journal.
(8) Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a ham-
mer handle. While at the same time, guide connect-
ing rod into position on rod journal.CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
(9) Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with
engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing.
Tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90É.
(10) Install the following components:
²Cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
²Timing chain and cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S)
- INSTALLATION).
²Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
INSTALLATION).
²Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(11) Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to cor-
rect level.
(12) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 74 PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
INSTALLATION
1 - ªFº TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE
2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT
3 - RING COMPRESSOR
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8507
Fig. 75 PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
ORIENTATION
1 - MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF PISTON
2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 141
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

(14) Raise the engine far enough to be able to
remove the left (Fig. 89) and right (Fig. 88) engine
mounts.
(15) Remove the engine mounts.
INSTALLATION
2WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine
bracket to front axle bolts, apply MoparTLock and
Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
(1) Install the right and left side engine mounts to
the engine block with (8) bolts. Torque bolts to 54
N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(2) Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and
left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two
nuts onto the through bolts.
(3) Lower the engine until the through bolts rest
onto the slots in the frame brackets.
(4) Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N´m (70 ft.
lbs.).
(5) Install the oil drain trough.
(6) Install the engine oil filter.
Fig. 87 ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNTS 4X4
1 - RH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
2 - NUT
3 - PINION SUPPORT MOUNT
4 - LH INSULATOR MOUNT5 - LH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
6 - FRONT AXLE
7 - NUT
8 - RH INSULATOR MOUNT
Fig. 88 ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET RH
1 - BOLT
2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 147
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(9) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
4WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine
bracket to front axle bolts, apply MoparTLock and
Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
(1) Install the right and left side engine mounts to
the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(2) Raise the front axle into the frame and install
the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to
94 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Insert the two upper through bolts into the
right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble
the two nuts onto the through bolts.
(4) Lower the engine until the left and right side
engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the
lower engine bracket through holes align with the
engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes
align with the front axle slots (Fig. 90).
(5) Loose assemble the (3) bolts that attach the
front axle to the left engine bracket.
(6) Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
Fig. 89 ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET
1 - BOLT
2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET
3 - BOLT
Fig. 90 ENGINE INSULATOR MOUNTS 4X4
1 - RH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
2 - NUT
3 - PINION SUPPORT MOUNT
4 - LH INSULATOR MOUNT5 - LH INSULATOR TO AXLE BOLT
6 - FRONT AXLE
7 - NUT
8 - RH INSULATOR MOUNT
9 - 148 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

(7) Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101
N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(8) Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle
to the left engine bracket to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the oil drain trough.
(10) Install the engine oil filter.
(11) Install the front crossmember.
(12) Install the skid plate.
(13) Lower the vehicle.
(14) Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(15) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts from the transmission mount
(Fig. 91).
(4) Remove the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the engine bracket.
(5) Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember.
(6) Remove the mount.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to
the bolts before installation.
(1) Install the two bolts that attach the transmis-
sion mount to the transmission bracket.
(2) Torque the bolts to 61N´m (45 ft.lbs.) torque.(3) Lower the transmission so the transmission
mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of
the transmission mount are aligned in the slots in
the crossmember.
(4) Install the nuts onto the transmission mount
studs through the crossmember access slot.
(5) Torque the nuts to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 91 TRANSMISSION MOUNT
1 - MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 149
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 93)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not posi-
tively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
Fig. 93 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
9 - 152 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)