air filter DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G User Guide

SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
29). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 2000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
REMOVAL
3.7L V-6
Each individual spark plug is located under each
ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be
removed to gain access to each spark plug. Refer to
Ignition Coil Removal/Installation.(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.
(2) Prior to removing ignition coil, spray com-
pressed air around coil base at cylinder head.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also
check condition of ignition coil o-ring and replace as
necessary.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Diagnos-
tics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
4.7L V-8
Each individual spark plug is located under each
ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be
removed to gain access to each spark plug. Refer to
Ignition Coil Removal/Installation.
(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.
(2) Prior to removing ignition coil, spray com-
pressed air around coil base at cylinder head.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also
check condition of ignition coil o-ring and replace as
necessary.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Diagnos-
tics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
5.7L V-8
Eight of the 16 spark plugs are located under an
ignition coil; the other 8 are not. If spark plug being
Fig. 27 CHIPPED ELECTRODE INSULATOR
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE
3 - CHIPPED INSULATOR
Fig. 28 PREIGNITION DAMAGE
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE STARTING TO DISSOLVE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE DISSOLVED
Fig. 29 SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
1 - BLISTERED WHITE OR GRAY COLORED INSULATOR
DRIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 19
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

removed is under coil, coil must be removed to gain
access to spark plug. Refer to Ignition Coil Removal/
Installation and observe all CAUTIONS and WARN-
INGS.
Before removing or disconnecting any spark plug
cables, note their original position. Remove cables
one-at-a-time. To prevent ignition crossfire, spark
plug cablesMUSTbe placed in cable tray (routing
loom) into their original position. Refer to Spark Plug
Cable Removal for a graphic.
Before installing spark plug cables to either the
spark plugs or coils, apply dielectric grease to inside
of boots.
(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.
(2) Prior to removing ignition coil (if coil removal
is necessary), spray compressed air around coil base
at cylinder head cover.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Diagnos-
tics and Testing - Spark Plug Conditions.
CLEANING
CLEANING AND ADJUSTMENT
The plugs may be cleaned using commercially
available spark plug cleaning equipment. After clean-
ing, file center electrode flat with a small point file or
jewelers file before adjusting gap.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean spark plugs. Metallic deposits will remain
on spark plug insulator and will cause plug misfire.
Adjust spark plug gap with a gap gauging tool
(Fig. 30).
INSTALLATION
3.7L V-6
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Before installing ignition coil(s), check condi-
tion of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in
coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring.
(4) Install ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.
4.7L V-8
CAUTION: The 4.7L V±8 engine is equipped with
copper core ground electrode spark plugs. They
must be replaced with the same type/number spark
plug as the original. If another spark plug is substi-
tuted, pre-ignition will result.
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Before installing ignition coil(s), check condi-
tion of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in
coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring.
Fig. 30 SETTING SPARK PLUG GAP - TYPICAL
1 - GAUGE TOOL
2 - SPARK PLUG
8I - 20 IGNITION CONTROLDR
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

interval at which to de-energize the wiper on/off
relay to complete the wipe-after-wash mode cycle.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIPER &
WASHER SYSTEM
If the wiper motor operates, but the wipers do not
move on the windshield, replace the faulty wiper
module. If the washer pump/motor operates, but no
washer fluid is dispensed on the glass; or, if the wip-
ers operate, but chatter, lift, or do not clear the glass,
clean and inspect the wiper and washer system com-
ponents as required. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING) and (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS - INSPECTION).
For diagnosis and testing of the multi-function
switch (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHT-
ING - EXTERIOR/MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Refer to the appropri-
ate wiring information. The wiring information
includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector
repair procedures, details of wire harness routing
and retention, connector pin-out information and
location views for the various wire harness connec-
tors, splices and grounds.
The hard wired circuits and components of the
wiper and washer system may be diagnosed and
tested using conventional diagnostic tools and proce-
dures. However, conventional diagnostic methods
may not prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the
instrument cluster, the Front Control Module (FCM),
or the electronic message inputs to or outputs from
the instrument cluster and the FCM that control the
various wiper and washer system operating modes.
The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means to
diagnose the instrument cluster, the FCM, or the
electronic message inputs and outputs related to the
various wiper and washer system operating modes
requires the use of a DRBIIItscan tool. Refer to the
appropriate diagnostic information.
WARNING: TO AVOID PERSONAL INJURY OR
DEATH, ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
DISABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYS-
TEM BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING
WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, AIRBAG, SEAT BELT
TENSIONER, IMPACT SENSOR, OR INSTRUMENT
PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE.
DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY NEGA-
TIVE (GROUND) CABLE, THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES
FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE
BEFORE PERFORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DIS-
ABLE THE SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM.
FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOY-
MENT.
CLEANING - WIPER & WASHER SYSTEM
WIPER SYSTEM
The squeegees of wiper blades exposed to the ele-
ments for a long time tend to lose their wiping effec-
tiveness. Periodic cleaning of the squeegees is
suggested to remove any deposits of salt or road film.
The wiper blades, arms, and windshield glass should
only be cleaned using a sponge or soft cloth and
windshield washer fluid, a mild detergent, or a non-
abrasive cleaner. If the wiper blades continue to
leave streaks, smears, hazing, or beading on the
glass after thorough cleaning of the squeegees and
the glass, the entire wiper blade assembly must be
replaced.
CAUTION: Protect the rubber squeegees of the
wiper blades from any petroleum-based cleaners,
solvents, or contaminants. These products can rap-
idly deteriorate the rubber squeegees.
WASHER SYSTEM
If the washer system is contaminated with foreign
material, drain the washer reservoir by removing the
washer pump/motor from the reservoir. Clean foreign
material from the inside of the washer pump/motor
inlet filter screen and the washer reservoir using
clean washer fluid, a mild detergent, or a non-abra-
sive cleaner. Flush foreign material from the washer
system plumbing by first disconnecting the washer
hoses from the washer nozzles, then running the
washer pump/motor to run clean washer fluid or
water through the system. Plugged or restricted
washer nozzles should be carefully back-flushed
using compressed air. If the washer nozzle obstruc-
tion cannot be cleared, replace the washer nozzle.
CAUTION: Never introduce petroleum-based clean-
ers, solvents, or contaminants into the washer sys-
tem. These products can rapidly deteriorate the
rubber seals and hoses of the washer system, as
well as the rubber squeegees of the wiper blades.
CAUTION: Never use compressed air to flush the
washer system plumbing. Compressed air pres-
sures are too great for the washer system plumbing
components and will result in further system dam-
age. Never use sharp instruments to clear a
plugged washer nozzle or damage to the nozzle ori-
fice and improper nozzle spray patterns will result.
8R - 6 WIPERS/WASHERSDR
WIPERS/WASHERS (Continued)

(7) Reinstall both wiper arms onto the wiper piv-
ots. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER ARM - INSTALLATION).
WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
The washer pump/motor unit (Fig. 12) is located on
the rearward facing surface of the washer reservoir,
in the right (except diesel engine) or left (diesel
engine only) front corner of the engine compartment.
A small permanently lubricated and sealed electric
motor is coupled to the rotor-type washer pump. A
seal flange with a barbed inlet nipple on the pump
housing passes through a rubber grommet seal
installed in a dedicated mounting hole of the washer
reservoir. When the pump is installed in the reser-
voir a barbed outlet nipple on the pump housing con-
nects the unit to the washer system through a short
washer reservoir hose.
The washer pump/motor unit is retained on the
reservoir by the interference fit between the barbed
pump inlet nipple and the grommet seal, which is a
light press fit. The top of the washer pump is also
secured to the washer reservoir by the use of a snappost on the motor housing and a snap post receptacle
molded into the reservoir that allows for mounting of
the washer pump without the use of fasteners. An
integral connector receptacle on the top of the motor
housing connects the unit to the vehicle electrical
system. The washer pump/motor unit cannot be
repaired. If faulty or damaged, the entire washer
pump/motor unit must be replaced.
OPERATION
The washer pump/motor unit features a small
Direct Current (DC) electric motor. The motor is con-
nected to the vehicle electrical system through a sin-
gle take out and two-cavity connector of the right
(except diesel engine) or left (diesel engine only)
headlamp and dash wire harness. The motor is
grounded at all times through another take out of
the right (except diesel engine) or left (diesel engine
only) headlamp and dash wire harness. On models
without the diesel engine, a single eyelet terminal
connector is secured by a nut to a ground stud
located on the right front fender inner shield in the
engine compartment. On models with a diesel engine,
an eyelet terminal connector is secured by a ground
screw to the left front fender inner shield in the
engine compartment. The motor receives battery cur-
rent on a washer pump/motor control circuit.
The washer pump/motor control circuit is energized
through a high side driver within the Front Control
Module (FCM) whenever the FCM receives an elec-
tronic message requesting washer system operation
from the instrument cluster over the Programmable
Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. The
instrument cluster monitors a resistor multiplexed
hard wired input from the momentary washer switch
contacts within the multi-function switch on the
steering column to determine when it should issue
the electronic message requesting washer system
operation.
Washer fluid is gravity-fed from the washer reser-
voir to the inlet side of the washer pump. When the
pump motor is energized, the motor spins the rotor
within the washer pump. The spinning pump rotor
pressurizes the washer fluid and forces it through
the pump outlet nipple, the washer plumbing, and
the washer nozzles onto the windshield glass.
The washer pump/motor unit may be diagnosed
using conventional diagnostic tools and methods.
However, conventional diagnostic methods may not
prove conclusive in the diagnosis of the instrument
cluster, the FCM, or the electronic message inputs to
or outputs from the instrument cluster and the FCM
that control the operation of the washer pump/motor
unit. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means
to diagnose the washer pump/motor unit, the instru-
ment cluster, the FCM, or the electronic message
Fig. 12 Washer Pump/Motor
1 - MOTOR
2 - SNAP POST
3 - CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE
4 - PUMP
5 - OUTLET NIPPLE
6 - INLET NIPPLE
7 - FILTER SCREEN
DRWIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 13
WASHER NOZZLE (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Incorrect right bank cam timing. 6. Refer to engine timing in this
section.
7. Dirt or water in fuel system. 7. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
8.Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 8.Repair or replace as necessary.
9. Faulty cam or crank sensor 9. Refer to Ignition system.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Vacuum leak. 1. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
2. Faulty crank position sensor 2. Replace crank position sensor.
3. Faulty coil. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9 - 4 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
4. Incorrect cam timing. 4. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
1. ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt or water in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
4. Blown cylinder head gasket. 4. Replace cylinder head gasket.
5. Low compression. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), repair
as necessary.
6. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
8. Faulty coil. 8. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9. Incorrect cam timing. 9. Refer to Engine TIming in this
section.
1. ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt in fuel system. 2. Clean fuel system.
3. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 3. Replcae as necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
1. ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH
SPEED1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Faulty coil. 2. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
3. Dirt or water in fuel system. 3. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 5
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR -
REMOVAL).
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
5. Timing chain cover seal,
damaged or misaligned.5. Replace seal (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
- REMOVAL).
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PRESSURE SENSOR/SWITCH -
REMOVAL).
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER
- REMOVAL).
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace oil pump (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP
- REMOVAL).
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Replace oil pump (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP
- REMOVAL).
9. Oil pick up tube loose, damaged
or clogged.9. Replace as necessary.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 7
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL
Filter Element Only
Housing removal is not necessary for element (fil-
ter) replacement.
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 3) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Pry over 4 spring clips (Fig. 3) from housing
cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
(3) Release housing cover from locating tabs on
housing (Fig. 3) and remove cover.
(4) Remove air cleaner element (filter) from hous-
ing.
(5) Clean inside of housing before replacing ele-
ment.
Housing Assembly
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 3) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Lift entire housing assembly from 4 locating
pins (Fig. 4).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install filter element into housing.
(2) Position housing cover into housing locating
tabs (Fig. 3).(3) Pry up 4 spring clips (Fig. 3) and lock cover to
housing.
(4) Install air duct to air cleaner cover and tighten
hose clamp to 3 N´m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) If any other hose clamps were removed from
air intake system, tighten them to 3.4 N´m (30 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) If any bolts were removed from air resonator
housing or air intake tubing, tighten them to 4.5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
Fig. 3 AIR CLEANER HOUSING COVER
1 - CLAMP
2 - AIR DUCT
3 - AIR CLEANER COVER
4 - LOCATING TABS
5 - CLIPS (4)
Fig. 4 AIR CLEANER HOUSING
1 - AIR CLEANER HOUSING ASSEMBLY
2 - LOCATING PINS (4)
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 21

CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Drain cooling system, below the level of the
heater hoses(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(4)
Remove accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts and move compressor to the left.
(6) Remove heater hoses.
(7) Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
(8) Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ven-
tilation (PCV) hose.
(9) Remove oil fill tube.
(10) Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and
move away from cylinder head cover.
(11) Remove right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
(12) Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts.
(13) Remove cylinder head cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs).
(3) Install right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
(4) Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connec-
tors and harness retaining clips.
(5) Install the oil fill tube.
(6) Install PCV hose.
(7) Install heater hoses.
(8) Install air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts.
(9) Install accessory drive belt(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(10) Fill Cooling system(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(12) Connect battery negative cable.
ROCKER ARM
DESCRIPTION
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an inte-
gral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate a 2.8
mm (0.11 inch) oil hole in the lash adjuster socket for
roller and camshaft lubrication.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to pre-
vent accidental starter engagement.
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 4,
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC
intake stroke.
(3) For rocker arm removal on cylinder No. 1,
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at BDC
combustion stroke.
(4) For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 3 and
No. 5, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at
TDC exhaust stroke.
(5) For rocker arm removal on cylinders No. 2 and
No. 6, Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder No. 1 is at
TDC ignition stroke.
(6) Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover,
press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker
arm (Fig. 28).
Fig. 28 Rocker Arm - Removal
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 37

for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 29).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 30).
Fig. 29 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 30 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 39
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)