motor oil type DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G User Guide

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to
the block. The block design allows coolant flow
between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant
bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included
in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 128 ENGINE - 4.7LDR

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION/LEAKAGE TESTS
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure batteries are completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnostic purposes.
(1) Disconnect the fuel inlet line to the fuel trans-
fer pump. Plug the fuel line from the fuel tank.
(2) Start the engine and idle until the engine stalls
(runs out of fuel).
(3) Disconnect all three injector wire harness con-
nectors at the rocker housing.
(4) Remove the breather cover and cylinder head
cover.
(5) Remove the high pressure fuel line between the
cylinder head and fuel rail for the cylinder to be
tested. Use tool# 9011 to cap this fuel rail on the cyl-
inder being tested.
(6) Remove the exhaust rocker lever.
(7) Use Tool 9010 to remove the injector and cop-
per sealing washer.
(8) Install the exhaust rocker lever and torque to
36 N´m (27 ft. lbs.).
(9) Cover the remaining rocker levers with clean
shop towels to prevent any oil splatter under the
hood.
(10) Place a rag over the compression test tool fit-
ting. Crank the engine for 2±3 seconds to purge any
fuel that may have drained into the cylinder when
the injector was removed.
(11) Connect the compression test gauge.
(12) Crank the engine for 5 seconds and record the
pressure reading. Repeat this step three times and
calculate the average of the three readings.
NOTE: The minimum cylinder pressure is 350 psi.
Cylinder pressure should be within 20% from cylin-
der to cylinder.
(13) Combustion pressure leakage can be checked
if cylinder pressure is below the specification. Per-
form the leakage test procedure on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer instructions.
(14) Upon completion of the test check an erase
any engine related fault codes.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
(1) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature.
(2) Remove the breather cover and cylinder head
cover.
(3) Disconnect all three injector wire harness con-
nectors at the rocker housing.
(4) Bring the cylinder to be tested to TDC.
(5) Remove the high pressure fuel line between the
cylinder head and the fuel rail for the cylinder to be
tested.
(6) Install capping Tool 9011 onto the rail.
(7) Remove the high pressure connector nut and
high pressure connector with Tool 9015.
(8) Remove the exhaust and intake rocker lever.
(9) Use Tool 9010 to remove the injector and cop-
per sealing washer.
(10) Install compression test Tool 9007 into the
injector bore.
(11) Connect the leakage tester and perform the
leakage test procedure on each cylinder according to
the tester manufacturer's instructions.
(12) Upon completion of the test check and erase
any engine related fault codes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 239
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(2) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(3) Place a shop towel around the fuel injectors to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the fuel injectors (Refer
to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL
INJECTOR - REMOVAL).
(4) With all injectors removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using the crankshaft barring tool (PN 7471±B).
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(6) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(8) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(9) Install fuel injectors (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL INJECTOR -
INSTALLATION).
9 - 240 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(10) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FIL-
TER - REMOVAL).
(11) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 50
N´m (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install a new oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
(13) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).
(14) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(15) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ENGINE
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
(2) Disconnect engine grid heater harness at grid
heater relays.
(3) Disconnect electrical connections from rear of
alternator.
(4) Recover A/C refrigerant. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(6) Drain engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Remove engine oil drain plug and drain engine
oil.
(8) Reinstall drain plug. Tighten to 50N´m (37 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(9) Lower the vehicle.
(10) Remove fan/drive assembly. Refer to Section 7
± Fan/Drive Removal
(11) Remove radiator upper hose.
(12) Remove upper fan shroud mounting bolts.
(13) Disconnect the coolant recovery bottle hose
from the radiator fill neck and remove bottle.
(14) Using a 36mm wrench, remove viscous fan/
drive assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RA-
DIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(15) Remove cooling fan and shroud together.
(16) Disconnect heater core supply and return
hoses from the cylinder head fitting and coolant pipe.
(17) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(18) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(19) Disconnect exhaust pipe from turbocharger
extension pipe.
(20) Disconnect engine harness to vehicle harness
connectors.
(21) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).(22) Remove flywheel/flexplate.
(23) Remove transmission adapter
(24) Disconnect A/C suction/discharge hose from
the rear of the A/C compressor.
(25) Lower vehicle.
(26) Disconnect lower radiator hose from radiator
outlet.
(27) Automatic transmission models:
(28) Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from
in front of radiator using special tool #6931
(29) Remove radiator. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(30) If A/C equipped, disconnect A/C condenser
refrigerant lines.
(31) Disconnect charge air cooler piping.
(32) Remove charge air cooler mounting bolts.
(33) Remove charge air cooler (and A/C condenser
if equipped) from vehicle.
(34) Remove damper and speed indicator ring from
front of engine.
(35) Disconnect engine block heater connector.
(36) Disconnect A/C compressor and pressure sen-
sor electrical connectors.
(37) Remove the passenger battery ground cable
from the engine block. Remove the driver side bat-
tery ground cable from the engine block.
(38) Remove power steering pump from engine by
removing 3 bolts.
(39) Remove accelerator linkage cover.
(40) Disconnect cables from on-engine APPS.
(41) Disconnect the ECM power connector.
(42) Disconnect the ECM ground wire from the
hydroform screw.
(43) Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses.
(44) Remove the cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(45) Disconnect the 3 injector harness connectors
at the rocker housing. Disconnect the wire harnesses
from the injectors.
(46) Remove the rear engine lift bracket.
(47) Remove cylinder #4, #5, and #6 intake and
exhaust rocker arms, pedestals, and push tubes. Note
the original location for re-assembly.
(48) Loosen #6 fuel line shield bolts and rotate
shield out of the way.
(49) Remove cylinder #5 and #6 high pressure fuel
lines. Remove the fuel connector tube nut and fuel
connector tube. Remove cylinder #5 and #6 fuel injec-
tor.
(50) Remove rocker housing.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 241
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(6) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(8) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(9) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (37 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(11) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 293

(d) Insert special fuel line removal tool (Snap-On
number FIH 9055-1 or equivalent) into fuel line
(Fig. 14). Use tool to release locking fingers in end
of line.
(e) With special tool still inserted, pull fuel line
from fuel rail.
(f) After disconnection, locking fingers will
remain within quick-connect fitting at end of fuel
line.
(10) Disconnect quick-connect fitting from fuel sys-
tem component being serviced.
CONNECTING
(1) Inspect quick-connect fitting body and fuel sys-
tem component for damage. Replace as necessary.
(2) Prior to connecting quick-connect fitting to
component being serviced, check condition of fitting
and component. Clean parts with a lint-free cloth.
Lubricate with clean engine oil.
(3) Insert quick-connect fitting into fuel tube or
fuel system component until built-on stop on fuel
tube or component rests against back of fitting.
(4) Continue pushing until a click is felt.
(5) Single-tab type fitting: Push new tab down
until it locks into place in quick-connect fitting.
(6) Verify a locked condition by firmly pulling on
fuel tube and fitting (15-30 lbs.).
(7) Latch Clip Equipped: Install latch clip (snaps
into position).If latch clip will not fit, this indi-
cates fuel line is not properly installed to fuel
rail (or other fuel line). Recheck fuel line con-
nection.
(8) Connect negative cable to battery.
(9) Start engine and check for leaks.
FUEL PUMP
DESCRIPTION
The electric fuel pump is located inside of the fuel
pump module. A 12 volt, permanent magnet, electric
motor powers the fuel pump. The electric fuel pump
is not a separate, serviceable component.
OPERATION
Voltage to operate the electric pump is supplied
through the fuel pump relay.
Fuel is drawn in through a filter at the bottom of
the module and pushed through the electric motor
gearset to the pump outlet.
Check Valve Operation:The bottom section of
the fuel pump module contains a one-way check
valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to
maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm)
when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep
the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not
operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel
pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but
liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line
between the check valve and fuel injectors.Fuel
pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled
down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition.
The electric fuel pump is not a separate, service-
able component.
FUEL PUMP MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The fuel pump module assembly is located on the
top of the fuel tank (Fig. 1). The complete assembly
contains the following components:
²A combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator
²A separate fuel pick-up, or inlet filter
²An electric fuel pump
²A lockring to retain pump module to tank
²A soft gasket between tank flange and module
²A fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor)
²Fuel line connection
The fuel gauge sending unit may be serviced sepa-
rately. If the electrical fuel pump, primary inlet filter,
fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator require service,
the fuel pump module must be replaced.
OPERATION
Refer to Fuel Pump, Inlet Filter, Fuel Filter / Fuel
Pressure Regulator and Fuel Gauge Sending Unit.
Fig. 14 FUEL LINE DISCONNECTION USING
SPECIAL TOOL
1 - SPECIAL FUEL LINE TOOL
2 - FUEL LINE
3 - FUEL RAIL
DRFUEL DELIVERY - GAS 14 - 11
QUICK CONNECT FITTING (Continued)

ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
(2) Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it
on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil pas-
senger's clothing.
(3) Before applying lubricant, the component
should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess
lubricant should be removed.
(4) The hood latch, latch release mechanism, latch
striker, and safety latch should be lubricated period-
ically.
(5) The door lock cylinders should be lubricated
twice each year (preferably autumn and spring).
²Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubricant
directly into the lock cylinder.
²Apply a small amount to the key and insert it
into the lock cylinder.
²Rotate it to the locked position and then back to
the unlocked position several times.
²Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it with
a clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAT STAKING
(1) Remove trim panel.(2) Bend or move the trim panel components at
the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked loca-
tions and/or component seams for looseness.
(3) Heat stake the components.
(a) If the heat staked or component seam loca-
tion is loose, hold the two components tightly
together and using a soldering gun with a flat tip,
melt the material securing the components
together. Do not over heat the affected area, dam-
age to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
(b) If the heat staked material is broken or miss-
ing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to
the area to be repaired. The panels that are being
heat staked must be held together while the apply-
ing the glue. Once the new material is in place, it
may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt
the newly applied material. Do not over heat the
affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim
panel may occur.
(4) Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the
repair.
(5) Install trim panel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PLASTIC BODY
PANEL REPAIR
There are many different types of plastics used in
today's automotive environment. We group plastics in
three different categories: Rigid, Semi-Rigid, and
Flexible. Any of these plastics may require the use of
an adhesion promoter for repair. These types of plas-
tic are used extensively on DaimlerChrysler Motors
vehicles. Always follow repair material manufactur-
er's plastic identification and repair procedures.
Rigid Plastics:
Examples of rigid plastic use: Fascias, Hoods,
Doors, and other Body Panels, which include SMC,
ABS, and Polycarbonates.
Semi-Rigid Plastics:
Examples of semi-rigid plastic use: Interior Panels,
Under Hood Panels, and other Body Trim Panels.
Flexible Plastics:
Examples of flexible plastic use: Fascias, Body
Moldings, and upper and lower Fascia Covers.
Repair Procedure:
The repair procedure for all three categories of
plastics is basically the same. The one difference is
the material used for the repair. The materials must
be specific for each substrate, rigid repair material
for rigid plastic repair, semi-rigid repair material for
semi-rigid plastic repair and flexible repair material
for flexible plastic repair.
DRBODY 23 - 3
BODY (Continued)

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLING
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS...............1
DESCRIPTION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER........................1
OPERATION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER........................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C
PERFORMANCE.......................3DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATER
PERFORMANCE TEST..................6
SPECIFICATIONS - A/C SYSTEM............7
CONTROLS.............................9
DISTRIBUTION..........................26
PLUMBING.............................41
HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM
REQUIREMENTS
To maintain the performance level of the heating,
ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system, the
engine cooling system must be properly maintained.
The use of a bug screen is not recommended. Any
obstructions in front of the radiator or A/C condenser
will reduce the performance of the A/C and engine
cooling systems.
The engine cooling system includes the radiator,
thermostat, radiator hoses and the engine coolant
pump. Refer to Cooling for more information before
opening or attempting any service to the engine cool-
ing system.
DESCRIPTION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER
A manually controlled single zone type heating-air
conditioning system or a manually controlled dual
zone type heating-air conditioning system is available
on this model.
All vehicles are equipped with a common heater,
ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) housing (Fig.
1). The system combines air conditioning, heating,
and ventilating capabilities in a single unit housing
mounted within the passenger compartment under
the instrument panel. The HVAC housing includes:
²Blower motor
²Blower motor resistor block²Heater core
²Evaporator coil
²Blend door and actuator
²Defrost door and actuator
²Mode door and actuator
²Recirculation door and actuator
Based upon the system and mode selected, condi-
tioned air can exit the HVAC housing through one or
a combination of the three main housing outlets:
defrost, panel or floor. The defrost outlet is located on
the top of the housing, the panel outlet is located on
the face of the housing and the floor outlet is located
on the bottom of the housing. Once the conditioned
air exits the unit housing, it is further directed
through molded plastic ducts to the various outlets in
the vehicle interior. These outlets and their locations
are as follows:
²Defroster Outlet- A single large defroster out-
let is located in the center of the instrument panel
top cover, near the base of the windshield.
²Side Window Demister Outlets- There are
two side window demister outlets, one is located at
each outboard end of the instrument panel top cover,
near the belt line at the A-pillars.
²Panel Outlets- There are four panel outlets in
the instrument panel, one located near each outboard
end of the instrument panel facing the rear of the
vehicle and two located near the top of the instru-
ment panel center bezel.
²Front Floor Outlets- There are two front floor
outlets, one located above each side of the floor panel
center tunnel near the dash panel.
OPERATION - HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONER
The heating and air conditioning systems pulls
outside (ambient) air through the cowl opening at the
base of the windshield, then into the plenum cham-
DRHEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 24 - 1

ber above the heating, ventilation and air condition-
ing (HVAC) housing. On models equipped with air
conditioning, the air passes through the evaporator
coil. Air flow can be directed either through or
around the heater core. This is done by adjusting the
blend door with the temperature control knob on the
A/C-heater control located the instrument panel. The
air flow can then be directed from the panel, floor
and defrost outlets in various combinations using the
mode control knob located on the A/C-heater control.
Air flow velocity can be adjusted with the blower
speed selector located on the A/C-heater control.
NOTE: It is important to keep the air intake opening
clear of debris. Leaf particles and other debris that
is small enough to pass through the cowl opening
screen can accumulate within the HVAC housing.
The closed, warm, damp and dark environment cre-
ated within the housing is ideal for the growth of
certain molds, mildews and other fungi. Any accu-mulation of decaying plant matter provides an addi-
tional food source for fungal spores, which enter
the housing with the fresh intake-air. Excess debris,
as well as objectionable odors created by decaying
plant matter and growing fungi can be discharged
into the passenger compartment during heater-A/C
operation if the air intake opening is not kept clear
of debris.
The heater and air conditioning systems are blend-
air type systems. In a blend-air system, a blend door
controls the amount of unconditioned air (or cooled
air from the evaporator on models with air condition-
ing) that is allowed to flow through, or around, the
heater core. A temperature control knob determines
the discharge air temperature by actuating an elec-
tric motor, which operates the blend door. This allows
an almost immediate control of the output air tem-
perature of the system.
On all models, the outside air intake can be shut
off by selecting the Recirculation Mode with the
mode control knob. This will operate a electric actu-
ated recirculation air door that closes off the outside
fresh air intake and recirculates the air that is
already inside the vehicle.
The air conditioning compressor can be engaged in
any mode by pressing the snowflake, A/C on/off but-
ton. It can also be engaged by placing the mode con-
trol in the mix to defrost positions. This will remove
heat and humidity from the air before it is directed
through or around the heater core. The mode control
knob on the A/C-heater control is used to also direct
the conditioned air to the selected system outlets.
The mode control switch uses an electric motor to
control the mode doors.
The defroster outlet receives airflow from the
HVAC housing through the molded plastic defroster
duct, which connects to the HVAC housing defroster
outlet. The airflow from the defroster outlets is
directed by fixed vanes in the defroster outlet grilles
and cannot be adjusted. The defroster outlet grilles
are integral to the instrument panel top cover.
The side window demister outlets receive airflow
from the HVAC housing through the molded plastic
defroster duct and two molded plastic demister ducts.
The airflow from the side window demister outlets is
directed by fixed vanes in the demister outlet grilles
and cannot be adjusted. The side window demister
outlet grilles are integral to the instrument panel.
The demisters direct air from the HVAC housing
through the outlets located on the top corners of the
instrument panel. The demisters operate when the
mode control knob is positioned in the floor-defrost
and defrost-only settings. Some air may be noticeable
from the demister outlets when the mode control is
in the bi-level to floor positions.
Fig. 1 HVAC Housing - Dual Zone Shown, Single
Zone Typical
1 - NUT
2 - PASSENGER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
3 - NUT
4 - INLET BAFFLE
5 - RECIRCULATION DOOR ACTUATOR
6 - RECIRCULATION DOOR
7 - DRIVER SIDE BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
8 - HVAC HOUSING
9 - BOLT
10 - DEFROSTER DOOR ACTUATOR
11 - MODE DOOR ACTUATOR
24 - 2 HEATING & AIR CONDITIONINGDR
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)

and coil are the only serviced parts on the compres-
sor.
A/C compressor clutch engagement is controlled by
several components: the A/C-heater control, A/C pres-
sure transducer, A/C compressor clutch relay, evapo-
rator temperature sensor and the powertrain control
module (PCM). The PCM may delay compressor
clutch engagement for up to thirty seconds (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MOD-
ULES/POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE -
DESCRIPTION).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information). The battery must
be fully-charged before performing the following
tests. Refer to Battery for more information.
(1) Connect an ammeter (0 to 10 ampere scale) in
series with the clutch coil terminal. Use a voltmeter
(0 to 20 volt scale) with clip-type leads for measuring
the voltage across the battery and the compressor
clutch coil.
(2) With the A/C-heater controls in any A/C mode,
and the blower motor switch in the lowest speed
position, start the engine and run it at normal idle.
(3) The compressor clutch coil voltage should read
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage. If there is
voltage at the clutch coil, but the reading is not
within 0.2 volts of the battery voltage, test the clutch
coil feed circuit for excessive voltage drop and repair
as required. If there is no voltage reading at the
clutch coil, use a DRB IIItscan tool and (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information) for testing of thecompressor clutch circuit and PCM control. The fol-
lowing components must be checked and repaired as
required before you can complete testing of the clutch
coil:
²Fuses in the junction block and the power distri-
bution center (PDC)
²A/C-heater control
²A/C compressor clutch relay
²A/C pressure transducer
²Evaporator temperature sensor
²Powertrain control module (PCM)
(4) The compressor clutch coil is acceptable if the
current draw measured at the clutch coil is within
specifications with the electrical system voltage at
11.5 to 12.5 volts (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING - SPECIFICATIONS). This should
only be checked with the work area temperature at
21É C (70É F). If system voltage is more than 12.5
volts, add electrical loads by turning on electrical
accessories until the system voltage drops below 12.5
volts.
(a) If the clutch coil current reading is above
specifications, the coil is shorted and should be
replaced.
(b) If the clutch coil current reading is zero, the
coil is open and should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - A/C COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed,
cycle the compressor clutch approximately twenty
times (five seconds on, then five seconds off). During
this procedure, set the A/C-heater control to the
Recirculation Mode, the blower motor switch in the
highest speed position, and the engine speed at 1500
to 2000 rpm. This procedure (burnishing) will seat
the opposing friction surfaces and provide a higher
compressor clutch torque capability.
REMOVAL
The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged
during compressor clutch, rotor, or coil replacement.
The compressor clutch can be serviced in the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the compressor clutch coil wire har-
ness connector.
(4) Remove the bolts that secure the compressor to
the mounting bracket.
(5) Remove the compressor from the mounting
bracket. Support the compressor in the engine com-
partment while servicing the clutch.
Fig. 1 Compressor Clutch - Typical
1 - CLUTCH PLATE
2 - SHAFT KEY (not used on KJ)
3 - ROTOR
4 - COIL
5 - CLUTCH SHIMS
6 - SNAP RING
7 - SNAP RING
24 - 10 CONTROLSDR
A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH/COIL (Continued)