Valve body DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Owner's Manual

þ Loss of engine power
þ Engine misfiring
þ Poor fuel economy
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
þ Engine overheating
þ Loss of coolant
þ Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
þ Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test in this
section. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking
between adjacent cylinders will result in approxi-
mately a 50±70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system.
(3) Remove the air cleaner resonator and duct
work.
(4) Remove the generator.
(5) Remove closed crankcase ventilation system.
(6) Disconnect the evaporation control system.
(7) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release pro-
cedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIV-
ERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Disconnect the
fuel supply line (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect heater hoses.
(9) Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets.
(10) Remove intake manifold and throttle body as
an assembly.
(11) Remove rocker arm assemblies and push rods.
Identify to ensure installation in original locations.
(12) Remove the head bolts from each cylinder
head and remove cylinder heads. Discard the cylin-
der head gasket.
CLEANING
Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder
heads.
Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces
using a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness,
using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If tolerances
exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder
head.
(2) Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the
valve seats as necessary.
(3) Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or
looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylin-
der head.
(4) Inspect pushrods. Replace worn or bent push-
rods.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylin-
der heads.
(2) Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket sur-
faces using a suitable solvent.
CAUTION: The head gaskets are not interchange-
able between left and right sides. They are marked
ªLº and ªRº to indicate left and right sides.
(3) Position new cylinder head gaskets onto the
cylinder block.
9 - 200 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Position the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position the retainer onto the engine block.
(5) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 15 N´m (132 in. lbs.) using a crisscross pat-
tern, starting with the bolt on the lower right.
(6) Install a new rear seal(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR
- INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the
crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
(2)For automatic transmissions:Tighten the
flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3)For manual transmissions:Tighten the fly-
wheel retaining bolts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the transmission.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When
air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil
pump through which air can be drawn will create the
same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from
the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the
relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to
aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usu-
ally more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level
and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at
fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of
the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3)
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger
partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tap-
pet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tap-
pet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This
will cause the plunger to stick in the down position.
This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clear-
ance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve
closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be
removed for inspection and cleaning.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
9 - 210 ENGINE - 5.7LDR
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Install engine support fixture special tool #
8534.Do not raise engine at this time.
(3) Loosen both left and right side engine mount
through bolts. Do not remove bolts.
(4) Remove the structural dust cover, if equipped.
(5) Drain engine oil.
(6) Remove the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide
clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper
clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake
manifold.
(7) Raise engine using special tool # 8534 to pro-
vide clearance to remove oil pan.
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gas-
ket is integral to engine windage tray and does not
come out with oil pan.
(8) Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
NOTE: The double ended oil pan studs must be
installed in the same location that they were
removed from.
(9) Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
(10) Inspect the integral windage tray and gasket
and replace as needed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the
block and oil pan.
(2) Inspect the integral windage tray and gasket
and replace as needed.
(3) Reinstall the oil pump pickup tube with new
o-ring. Tighten tube to pump fasteners to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The double ended oil pan studs must be
installed in the same location that they were
removed from.
(4) Position the oil pan and install the mounting
bolts and studs.. Tighten the mounting bolts to 12
N´m (105 in.lbs.).
(5) Lower the engine into mounts using special
tool # 8534.
(6) Install both the left and right side engine
mount through bolts. Tighten the nuts to 68 N´m (50
ft. lbs.).(7) Remove special tool # 8534.
(8) Install structural dust cover, if equipped.
(9) Install the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSS-
MEMBER - INSTALLATION).
(10) Fill engine oil.
(11) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube(Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the four bolts, and the oil pump.
CLEANING
(1) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
CAUTION: Oil pump pressure relief valve and
spring should not be removed from the oil pump. If
these components are disassembled and or
removed from the pump the entire oil pump assem-
bly must be replaced.
(1) Remove the pump cover.
(2) Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of
the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump
cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly
should be replaced.
(3) Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump.
Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body
and measure clearance between the outer rotor and
the body (Fig. 30). If the measurement is 0.235mm
(0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
(4) Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump
body. Measure the clearance between the inner and
outer rotors (Fig. 31). If the clearance between the
rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump
assembly must be replaced.
(5) Place a straight edge across the body of the oil
pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge of
.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted
between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump
must be replaced (Fig. 32).
(6) Reinstall the pump cover. Torque fasteners to
15 N´m (132 in. lbs.).
9 - 224 ENGINE - 5.7LDR

(8) Measure the clearance of the gerotor planetary
to the body bore (Fig. 114). Maximum clearance is
0.381 mm (0.015 inch). If the oil pump is out of lim-
its, replace the pump.
(9) Measure the gears backlash (Fig. 115). The lim-
its of a used pump is 0.15- 0.25 mm (0.006-0.010
inch). If the backlash is out of limits, replace the oil
pump.
(10) Install the back plate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the pump with clean engine oil. Fill-
ing the pump with clean engine oil during installa-
tion will help to prime the pump at engine start up.
(2) Install the pump (Fig. 110). Verify the idler
gear pin is installed in the locating bore in the cylin-
der block. Tighten the oil pump mounting bolts in
two steps, in the sequence shown in (Fig. 116).
²Step 1ÐTighten to 8 N´m (71 in. lbs.) torque.
²Step 2ÐTighten to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) The back plate on the pump seats against the
bottom of the bore in the cylinder block. When the
pump is correctly installed, the flange on the pump
will not touch the cylinder block.(4) Measure the idler gear to pump drive gear
backlash and the idler gear to crankshaft gear back-
lash (Fig. 117). The backlash should be 0.15- 0.25
mm (0.006-0.010 inch). If the backlash is out of lim-
its, replace the oil pump.
(5) If the adjoining gear moves when you measure
the backlash, the reading will be incorrect.
(6) Apply a bead of MopartSilicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover
sealing surface.
(7) Install the gear housing cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/GEAR HOUSING COVER
- INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION) and speed indicator ring.
(9) Install the fan support/hub assembly Refer to
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
INSTALLATION)
(10) Install power steering pump.
(11) Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque
bolt to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
Fig. 114 Measuring Gerotor Planetary to Body Bore
Clearance
1 - BODY BORE
2 - GEROTOR PLANETARY
Fig. 115 Measure Gear Backlash
1 - OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR
2 - IDLER GEAR
3 - BACKLASH
4 - BACKLASH
Fig. 116 Oil Pump Mounting Bolt Torque Sequence
Fig. 117 Idler Gear to Pump Drive Gear and
Crankshaft Gear Backlash
9 - 296 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
OIL PUMP (Continued)

SPECIAL TOOLS
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove spark plug wires from
plugs or by any other means short out cylinders.
Failure of the catalytic converter can occur due to a
temperature increase caused by unburned fuel
passing through the converter.
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is
designed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If
unburned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct the
cause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid con-
taminating the catalyst core.
50 State emission vehicles incorporate two mini
catalytic converters located after the exhaust mani-
folds and before the inline catalytic converter.
OPERATION
The catalytic converter captures and burns any
unburned fuel mixture exiting the combustion cham-
bers during the exhaust stroke of the engine. This
process aids in reducing emissions output.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the bolts from the crossover pipe to the
catalytic converter connection.
(4) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Loosen the nuts from the clamp that hold the
catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe flange connec-
tion.
NOTE: Do not remove nut from T-Bolt. Only remove
nut far enough, so that the T end can be removed
from the clamp.
(6) Remove the T bolt end of the fastener, from the
clamp.
(7) Spread the clamp, and remove the catalytic
converter from the vehicle.
(8) Discard the clamp.
NOTE: The catalytic converter to exhaust manifold
clamp is not reusable. Always use a new clamp
when reinstalling the catalytic converter.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove clamps and nuts.
(4) Remove the catalytic converter.
INSPECTION
Look at the stainless steel body of the converter,
inspect for bulging or other distortion that could be a
result of overheating. If the converter has a heat
shield attached make sure it is not bent or loose.
If you suspect internal damage to the catalyst, tap-
ping the bottom of the catalyst with a rubber mallet
may indicate a damaged core.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The catalytic converter to exhaust manifold
clamp is not reusable. Always use a new clamp
when reinstalling the catalytic converter.
TURBOCHARGER TESTER 9022
11 - 6 EXHAUST SYSTEMDR
EXHAUST SYSTEM (Continued)

(1) Position the catalytic converter onto the
exhaust pipe flange connection. Tighten the nuts to
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the muffler onto the catalytic converter
until the alignment tab is inserted into the align-
ment slot.
(3) Install the exhaust clamp at the muffler and
catalytic converter connection. Tighten the clamp
nuts to 54.2 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Reair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(7) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. A minimum of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is
required between the exhaust system components
and body/frame parts. Make the necessary adjust-
ments, if needed..
INSTALLATION
(1) Assemble converter and clamps loosely in
place.
(2) Install the exhaust pipe onto exhaust mani-
folds, tighten 31 N´m (23 ft. lbs.).
(3) Tighten all clamp nuts to 52.2 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Reair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(6) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. A minimum of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is
required between the exhaust system components
and body/frame parts. Make the necessary adjust-
ments, if needed..
EXHAUST PIPE
REMOVAL - 3.7L/4.7L/5.7L
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove exhaust pipe to manifold bolts, retain-
ers and nuts.
(4) Remove the clamp nuts.
(5) Remove the exhaust pipe (Fig. 4).
INSPECTION
Discard rusted clamps, broken or worn supports
and attaching parts. Replace a component with orig-
inal equipment parts, or equivalent. This will assure
proper alignment with other parts in the system and
provide acceptable exhaust noise levels.
INSTALLATION - 3.7L/4.7L/5.7L
(1) Position the exhaust pipe for proper clearance
with the frame and underbody parts. A minimum
clearance of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is required.
(2) Position the exhaust pipe to manifold. Install
the bolts, retainers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 31
N´m (23 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Tighten the clamp nuts to 54.2 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks
and exhaust system contact with the body panels.
Adjust the alignment, if needed.
EXHAUST PIPE
REMOVAL - DIESEL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(4) Remove the exhaust pipe-to-extension pipe
clamp. Separate the exhaust pipe and extension pipe.
(5) Remove the exhaust pipe-to-turbocharger elbow
clamp (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the exhaust pipe from the transmis-
sion support (Fig. 5).
Fig. 4 Exhaust Pipe to Manifold Connection -
Typical
1 - BOLT
2 - RETAINER
3 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD
4 - NUT
5 - EXHAUST PIPE
DREXHAUST SYSTEM 11 - 7
CATALYTIC CONVERTER (Continued)

MUFFLER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the clamp nuts with heat valve lubri-
cant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Disconnect the muffler hangers (Fig. 9).
(4) Remove clamps and nuts.
(5) Remove the muffler.
INSTALLATION
(1) Assemble muffler and clamps loosely to permit
proper alignment of all parts.
(2) Connect the muffler hangers.
(3) Tighten the clamp nuts to 54.2 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Reair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(6) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. A minimum of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is
required between the exhaust system components
and body/frame parts. Make the necessary adjust-
ments, if needed..
Fig. 7 HEAT SHIELDS - RH - QUAD CAB
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - FASTENER
3 - NUT
4 - HEAT SHIELD
Fig. 8 HEAT SHIELD LH
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUT
Fig. 9 MUFFLER
1 - INSULATOR
2 - INSULATOR
3 - MUFFLER
4 - INSULATOR
DREXHAUST SYSTEM 11 - 9
HEAT SHIELDS (Continued)

MUFFLER - 5.9L DIESEL
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the muffler to tail pipe and extension
pipe clamps (Fig. 10).
(4) Disconnect the muffler from the hanger isola-
tors (Fig. 10).
(5) Disconnect the muffler from the tailpipe.
(6) Disconnect the muffler from the extension pipe
and remove from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the muffler hanger rods into the isola-
tors (Fig. 10).
(2) Install the muffler into the extension pipe.
(3) Install the muffler into the tail pipe.
(4) Install the exhaust clamps, align the exhaust
system, and tighten the exhaust clamps to 54.2 N´m
(40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Connect the battery negative cables.
(7) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Reair exhaust leaks as necessary.(8) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. A minimum of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is
required between the exhaust system components
and body/frame parts. Make the necessary adjust-
ments, if needed..
TAILPIPE - 5.9L DIESEL
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Saturate the clamp nuts with heat valve lubri-
cant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust tailpipe support hanger
isolators (Fig. 11).
(5) Remove the muffler-to-tailpipe clamps (Fig. 11).
(6) Remove the tailpipe from the vehicle.
INSPECTION
Discard rusted clamps, broken or worn supports
and attaching parts. Replace a component with orig-
inal equipment parts, or equivalent. This will assure
proper alignment with other parts in the system and
provide acceptable exhaust noise levels.
Fig. 10 Muffler Removal/Installation
1 - INSULATOR
2 - ISOLATOR
3 - TAILPIPE
4 - CLAMP
5 - MUFFLER
6 - CLAMP
7 - EXTENSION PIPE
Fig. 11 Tailpipe Removal/Installation
1 - ISOLATOR
2 - TAILPIPRE
3 - CLAMP
4 - MUFFLER
11 - 10 EXHAUST SYSTEMDR

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the tailpipe into the muffler.
(2) Install the tailpipe hanger rods into the isola-
tors (Fig. 11)
(3) Install the exhaust clamp, align the exhaust
system, and tighten the clamp 48 N´m (35 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Connect the battery negative cables.
(6) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Reair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(7) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. A minimum of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is
required between the exhaust system components
and body/frame parts. Make the necessary adjust-
ments, if needed..
TAILPIPE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the clamp nuts with heat valve lubri-
cant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust tailpipe support hanger
(Fig. 12).(4) Remove clamps and nuts.
(5) Remove the exhaust tailpipe.
INSPECTION
Discard rusted clamps, broken or worn supports
and attaching parts. Replace a component with orig-
inal equipment parts, or equivalent. This will assure
proper alignment with other parts in the system and
provide acceptable exhaust noise levels.
INSTALLATION
(1) Loosely assemble exhaust tailpipe to permit
proper alignment of all parts.
(2) Connect the support hangers.
(3) Position the exhaust tailpipe for proper clear-
ance with the underbody parts.
(4) Tighten all clamp nuts to 54.2 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Reair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(7) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. A minimum of 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) is
required between the exhaust system components
and body/frame parts. Make the necessary adjust-
ments, if needed..
TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TURBOCHARGER
BOOST PRESSURE
NOTE: This diagnostic procedure is to be used with
the DRB IIITwhile test driving the vehicle under
normal load and driving conditions.
Low turbocharger boost pressure can cause poor
engine performance and driveability concerns. The
following procedure will test the turbocharger boost
pressure.
(1) Loosen clamps holding air inlet duct rubber
sleeve to the intake manifold and air inlet duct.
Remove rubber sleeve (Fig. 13).
(2) Position Special Tool 8462 onto air inlet duct
and intake manifold. Using the existing clamps
tighten to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the 3447.5 kPa 500 psi (gray) Pressure
Transducer (part of OT-CH8520 Transducer Kit) into
Special Tool 8462.
(4) Connect the DRB IIItto the pressure trans-
ducer following the instructions supplied with the
DRB IIIt.
(5) Enter DRB IIItinto pressure reading mode
and test drive vehicle.
Fig. 12 TAILPIPE
1 - INSULATOR
2 - TAILPIPE
3 - CLAMP
4 - MUFFLER
5 - CLAMP
6 - INSULATOR
7 - INSULATOR
8 - INSULATOR
DREXHAUST SYSTEM 11 - 11
TAILPIPE - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(d) Insert special fuel line removal tool (Snap-On
number FIH 9055-1 or equivalent) into fuel line
(Fig. 14). Use tool to release locking fingers in end
of line.
(e) With special tool still inserted, pull fuel line
from fuel rail.
(f) After disconnection, locking fingers will
remain within quick-connect fitting at end of fuel
line.
(10) Disconnect quick-connect fitting from fuel sys-
tem component being serviced.
CONNECTING
(1) Inspect quick-connect fitting body and fuel sys-
tem component for damage. Replace as necessary.
(2) Prior to connecting quick-connect fitting to
component being serviced, check condition of fitting
and component. Clean parts with a lint-free cloth.
Lubricate with clean engine oil.
(3) Insert quick-connect fitting into fuel tube or
fuel system component until built-on stop on fuel
tube or component rests against back of fitting.
(4) Continue pushing until a click is felt.
(5) Single-tab type fitting: Push new tab down
until it locks into place in quick-connect fitting.
(6) Verify a locked condition by firmly pulling on
fuel tube and fitting (15-30 lbs.).
(7) Latch Clip Equipped: Install latch clip (snaps
into position).If latch clip will not fit, this indi-
cates fuel line is not properly installed to fuel
rail (or other fuel line). Recheck fuel line con-
nection.
(8) Connect negative cable to battery.
(9) Start engine and check for leaks.
FUEL PUMP
DESCRIPTION
The electric fuel pump is located inside of the fuel
pump module. A 12 volt, permanent magnet, electric
motor powers the fuel pump. The electric fuel pump
is not a separate, serviceable component.
OPERATION
Voltage to operate the electric pump is supplied
through the fuel pump relay.
Fuel is drawn in through a filter at the bottom of
the module and pushed through the electric motor
gearset to the pump outlet.
Check Valve Operation:The bottom section of
the fuel pump module contains a one-way check
valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to
maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm)
when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep
the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not
operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel
pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but
liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line
between the check valve and fuel injectors.Fuel
pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled
down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition.
The electric fuel pump is not a separate, service-
able component.
FUEL PUMP MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The fuel pump module assembly is located on the
top of the fuel tank (Fig. 1). The complete assembly
contains the following components:
²A combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator
²A separate fuel pick-up, or inlet filter
²An electric fuel pump
²A lockring to retain pump module to tank
²A soft gasket between tank flange and module
²A fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor)
²Fuel line connection
The fuel gauge sending unit may be serviced sepa-
rately. If the electrical fuel pump, primary inlet filter,
fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator require service,
the fuel pump module must be replaced.
OPERATION
Refer to Fuel Pump, Inlet Filter, Fuel Filter / Fuel
Pressure Regulator and Fuel Gauge Sending Unit.
Fig. 14 FUEL LINE DISCONNECTION USING
SPECIAL TOOL
1 - SPECIAL FUEL LINE TOOL
2 - FUEL LINE
3 - FUEL RAIL
DRFUEL DELIVERY - GAS 14 - 11
QUICK CONNECT FITTING (Continued)