car seat DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

(2) Position cross (1) in yoke with lube fitting
pointing up, if equipped (Fig. 27).
(3) Place a bearing cap (1) over the cross end (2)
and align cap with yoke bore (Fig. 28).
(4) Press bearing cap into the yoke bore enough to
clear snap ring groove.
(5) Repeat Step 3 and Step 4 to install the oppo-
site bearing cap.
NOTE: If joint is stiff or binding, strike the yoke with
a soft hammer to seat the needle bearings.
(6) Add grease to lube fitting, if equipped.
(7) Install propeller shaft.ASSEMBLY - WITH INJECTED RINGS
NOTE: Replacement joint has internal snap rings.
(1) Place joint in flange with one bearing cap.
(2) Position press (3) with receiver (1) on flange
and bearing cap (2) (Fig. 29).
Fig. 28 BEARING AND CROSS
1 - BEARING CAP
2 - CROSSFig. 29 PRESS ON FLANGE
1 - RECEIVER
2 - BEARING
3 - PRESS
Fig. 30 SNAP RING GROOVE
1 - YOKE
2 - GROOVE
DRPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 13
SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS (Continued)

(9) Press remaining two bearing caps into place
and install snap rings (Fig. 50).
(10) Tap snap rings to seat them into the grooves
(Fig. 51).(11) Flexing the joint beyond center, the joint
should snap over-center in both directions if correctly
assembled (Fig. 52).
(12) Install propeller shaft.
Fig. 50 PRESS IN BEARING CAP
Fig. 51 SEAT SNAP RINGS IN GROOVE
Fig. 52 CHECK ASSEMBLY
DRPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 19
DOUBLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS (Continued)

(7) Push axle shaft inward and remove axle shaft
C-lock from the axle shaft (Fig. 21).
(8) Remove axle shaft (Fig. 22) carefully to prevent
damage to the shaft bearing and seal in the axle
tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear
lubricant.
(2) Insall axle shaft and engage into side gear
splines.
NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from dam-
aging axle shaft seal.(3) Insert C-lock in end of axle shaft then push
axle shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.
(4) Insert pinion shaft into differential case and
through thrust washers and differential pinions.
(5) Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential
case and install lock screw with Loctiteton the
threads. Tighten lock screw to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install differential cover and fill with gear
lubricant to the bottom of the fill plug hole.
(7) Install brake rotor, caliper adapter and caliper.
(8) Install wheel and tire.
(9) Remove support and lower vehicle.
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove axle shaft.
(2) Remove axle shaft seal (Fig. 23) from the axle
tube with a small pry bar.
INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the axle tube bore clean. Remove any old
sealer or burrs from the tube.
(2) Coat the lip of thenewseal with axle lubricant
and install a seal with Installer C-4076-B and Han-
dle C-4735-1.
NOTE: When tool contacts the axle tube, the seal is
installed to the correct depth.
Fig. 21 AXLE SHAFT C-LOCK
1 - C-LOCK
2 - AXLE SHAFT
3 - SIDE GEAR
Fig. 22 AXLE SHAFT
1 - AXLE SHAFT
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
3 - CALIPER
4 - PARK BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 23 AXLE SHAFT SEAL
1 - AXLE SEAL
2 - AXLE BEARING
3 - 94 REAR AXLE-91/4DR
AXLE SHAFTS (Continued)

(5) Remove the reservoir from the master cylinder
by pulling upwards.
(6) Remove old grommets from cylinder body (Fig.
42).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use any type of tool to install the
grommets. Tools may cut, or tear the grommets cre-
ating a leak problem after installation. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.
(1) Lubricate the new grommets with clean brake
fluid and Install new grommets in cylinder body. Use
finger pressure to install and seat grommets.
(2) Start the reservoir in grommets. Then rock the
reservoir back and forth while pressing downward to
seat it into the grommets.
(3) Install the mounting bolt for the reservoir to
the master cylinder.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector to the fluid
reservoir level switch.
(5) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(6) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the brake lines from the junction block
(Fig. 43).
(2) Remove the junction block mounting bolt and
remove the junction block from the bracket (Fig. 43).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the junction block on the bracket and
install the mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt
to 23 N´m (210 in. lbs.) (Fig. 43).
(2) Install the brake lines into the junction block
and tighten to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.) (Fig. 43).
(3) Bleed the base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
A two-piece master cylinder is used on all models.
The cylinder body containing the primary and sec-
ondary pistons is made of aluminum. The removable
fluid reservoir is made of nylon reinforced with glass
fiber. The reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the
hydraulic brake circuits and has a switch for indicat-
ing low fluid levels. The reservoir is the only service-
able component.
The fluid compartments of the nylon reservoir are
interconnected to permit fluid level equalization.
However, the equalization feature does not affect cir-
cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.
Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
Fig. 42 FLUID RESERVOIR
1 - MASTER CYLINDER CAP
2 - FLUID RESERVOIR
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - MOUNTING BOLT
6 - GROMMETS
Fig. 43 JUNCTION BLOCK
1 - BRAKE LINES
2 - JUNCTION BLOCK
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEDR
FLUID RESERVOIR (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
(2) Attach bleed tubes to cylinder outlet ports.
Then position each tube end into reservoir (Fig. 46).
(3) Fill reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
(4) Press cylinder pistons inward with wood dowel.
Then release pistons and allow them to return under
spring pressure. Continue bleeding operations until
air bubbles are no longer visible in fluid.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST
(1) Depress the brake pedal five times to deplete
any vacuum that may remain in the booster unit.
(2) Siphon and drain the fluid from the reservoir.
(3) Disconnect the electrical connector for the low
fluid level.
(4) Place a towel or rag under the master cylinder
outlet port area to protect the vehicle from brake
fluid damage.
(5) Remove the brake lines from the master cylin-
der (Fig. 47).
(6) Remove the mounting nuts from the master
cylinder (Fig. 47).
(7) Remove the master cylinder.NOTE: Gently ease the master cylinder & reservoir
assembly away from the booster, During removal
the master cylinder should be kept as perpendicular
to the front of the booster as possible to avoid
excess interference with the booster output rod
(Fig. 49) and in order not to dislodge the output rod
from its seat inside the booster.
REMOVAL - HYDROBOOST
(1) Remove the brake lines from the master cylin-
der (Fig. 48).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector for the low
fluid level.
(3) Remove the mounting nuts from the master
cylinder (Fig. 48).
(4) Remove the master cylinder.
NOTE: Using care remove the master cylinder
directly forward in order not to dislodge the output
rod from its seat inside the booster.Fig. 46 Master Cylinder Bleeding±Typical
1 - BLEEDING TUBES
2 - RESERVOIR
Fig. 47 MASTER CYLINDER
1 - MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - BRAKE LINES
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEDR
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

REMOVAL - LEFT REAR CABLE
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Lockout the parking brake cable (Fig. 69).
(3) Loosen the brake cable at the equalizer and
adjuster nut.
(4) Remove the left brake cable from the equalizer.
(5) Remove the brake cable from the frame
bracket.
(6) Remove the brake cable from the brake lever.
(Fig. 72)
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE
(1) From inside the vehicle, insert the cable end
fitting into the hole in the pedal assembly.
(2) Seat the cable retainer in the pedal assembly.
(3) Engage the cable ball end in clevis on the pedal
assembly.
(4) Route the cable through the floorpan and
install the body grommet.
(5) Place the carpet down and install the left cowl
trim and sill plate.
(6) Raise and support the vehicle.
(7) Route the cable through the underbody bracket
and seat the cable end fitting in the bracket.
(8) Connect the cable to the cable connector.
(9) Perform the park brake adjustment procedure,
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/CABLE
TENSIONER - ADJUSTMENTS).
(10) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - REAR PARK BRAKE CABLE
(1) Push each cable end through the brake cable
support plate hole until the cable end fitting tabs
lock into place.
NOTE: Pull on the cable to ensure it is locked into
place.
(2) Push the cable through the frame bracket.
(3) Lock the left cable end fitting tabs into the
frame bracket hole.
(4) Install the rear cables into the tensioner rod
behind the rear of the brake assembly.
(5) Install the cable to the intermediate cable con-
nector.
(6) Release and remove the lock out device.
(7) Perform the park brake adjustment procedure,
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/CABLE
TENSIONER - ADJUSTMENTS).
(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - RIGHT REAR CABLE
(1) Install the brake cable to the brake lever. (Fig.
73)
(2) Install the cable bracket to the shock bracket.
(3) Install the cable to the axle bracket.
(4) Install the cable to the frame bracket.
(5) Install the right cable to the equalizer.
(6) Install the right cable to the front cable.
(7) Adjust the brake cable at the equalizer and
using the adjuster nut.
Fig. 71 CABLE MOUNT
1 - SUPPORT PLAT
2 - CABLE MOUNT
3 - PARK BRAKE LEVER
4 - CABLE
Fig. 72 REAR DISC BRAKE
1 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
2 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
3 - DUST SHIELD
4 - REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLE
5 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - 38 BRAKES - BASEDR
CABLES (Continued)

(12) Rotate rotor to verify that the park brake
shoes are not dragging on the brake drum. If park
brake shoes are dragging, remove rotor and back off
star wheel adjuster one notch and recheck for brake
shoe drag against drum. Continue with the previous
step until brake shoes are not dragging on brake
drum.
(13) Install disc brake caliper on caliper adapter
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install wheel and tire.
(15) Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in the
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the
specified torque. Then repeat the tightening sequence
to the full specified torque of 180 N´m (135 ft. lbs.)
1500 & 2500 Series or 195 N´m (145 ft. lbs.) 3500
Series.
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Apply and release the park brake pedal one
time. This will seat and correctly adjust the park
brake cables.
CAUTION: Before moving vehicle, pump brake
pedal several times to ensure the vehicle has a firm
enough pedal to stop the vehicle.
NOTE: On a new vehicle or after parking brake lin-
ing replacement, it is recommended that the park-
ing brake system be conditioned prior to use. This
is done by making one stop from 25 mph on dry
pavement or concrete using light to moderate force
on the parking brake foot pedal.
(18) Road test the vehicle to ensure proper func-
tion of the vehicle's brake system.
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 82).
(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.(8) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(9) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(10) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(11) Depress park brake pedal and make sure park
brakes hold the vehicle staionary.
(12) Release park brake pedal.
PEDAL
REMOVAL
(1) Release the parking brake.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Loosen the cable tensioner nut at the equalizer
to create slack in the front cable.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN
OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(6) Disconnect the brake lamp wire from the
switch on the pedal assembly.
(7) Roll the carpet back, loosen the front cable
grommet from the floorpan and the cable retainer.
(8) Disengage the release rod (Fig. 83) from the
arm on the pedal assembly.
(9) Remove the bolts/nuts from the pedal assembly
and remove the assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the replacement pedal assembly on the
dash and cowl.
Fig. 82 Brake Adjustment
1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
5 - 42 BRAKES - BASEDR
SHOES (Continued)

Engagement problems can cause slip, chatter/shud-
der and noisy operation. The causes may be clutch
disc contamination, wear, distortion or flywheel dam-
age.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with turning equipment. Remove only
enough material to reduce scoring (approximately
0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal isnot rec-
ommended.Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the fly-
wheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
6 - 2 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH (Continued)

PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inside of the filler neck and examine the
lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leakthat does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain the coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the power cord from the heater by
unplugging (Fig. 7).
(4) Loosen (but do not completely remove) the
screw at center of block heater (Fig. 7).
(5) Remove the block heater by carefully prying
from side-to-side. Note the direction of the heating
element coil (up or down). The element coil must be
installed correctly to prevent damage.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the block heater hole.
(2) Install the new O-ring seal(s) to heater.
(3) Insert the block heater into cylinder block and
position the element properly.
(4) With the heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.).
(5) Fill the cooling system with the recommended
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check the block heater for leaks.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L
DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available on all
models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The heater is mounted in a threaded hole of the
engine cylinder block with the heating element
immersed in engine coolant. The cord is attached to
an engine compartment component with tie-straps.
The 5.9L diesel engine has the block heater located
on the right side of the engine below the exhaust
manifold next to the oil cooler (Fig. 8).
Fig. 6 Engine Block Heater - 3.7L/4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 7 Engine Block Heater
1 - FREEZE PLUG HOLE
2 - BLOCK HEATER
3 - SCREW
4 - POWER CORD (120V AC)
5 - HEATING COIL
6 - OIL FILTER
DRENGINE 7 - 37
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)