wiring DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

GROUP TAB LOCATOR
Introduction
0Lubrication & Maintenance
2Suspension
3Differential & Driveline
5Brakes
6Clutch
7Cooling
8AAudio/Video
8BChime/Buzzer
8EElectronic Control Modules
8FEngine Systems
8GHeated Systems
8HHorn
8IIgnition Control
8JInstrument Cluster
8LLamps
8MMessage Systems
8NPower Systems
8ORestraints
8PSpeed Control
8QVehicle Theft Security
8RWipers/Washers
8TNavigation/Telecommunication
8WWiring
9Engine
11Exhaust System
13Frame & Bumpers
14Fuel System
19Steering
21Transmission and Transfer Case
22Tires/Wheels
23Body
24Heating & Air Conditioning
25Emissions Control
Component and System Index
Service Manual Comment Forms (Rear of Manual)

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the front rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt
from the hub. (Fig. 3)
(3) Remove the wheel speed sensor from the hub.
(4) Remove the wiring from the clips and discon-
nect the electrical connector.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wiring to the clips and Reconnect
the electrical connector.
(2) Install the wheel speed sensor to the hub.
(3) Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt to
the hub. Tighten the bolt to 21 N´m (190 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the front rotor and brake caliper assem-
bly (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANI-
CAL/ROTORS - INSTALLATION).
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
ANTILOCK
Diagnosis of base brake conditions which are
mechanical in nature should be performed first. This
includes brake noise, lack of power assist, parking
brake, or vehicle vibration during normal braking.
The RWAL brake system performs several self-
tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and
the vehicle is driven. The CAB monitors the system
inputs and outputs circuits to verify the system is
operating properly. If the CAB senses a malfunction
in the system it will set a DTC into memory and trig-
ger the warning lamp.NOTE: The MDS or DRB III scan tool is used to
diagnose the RWAL system. For test procedures
refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Remove the brake line mounting nut and
remove the brake line from the sensor stud.
(3) Remove the mounting stud from the sensor and
shield (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove the sensor and shield from the differ-
ential housing.
(5) Disconnect the sensor wire harness and remove
the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the harness to the sensor.Be sure
the seal is securely in place between the sensor
and the wiring connector.
(2) Install the O-ring on the sensor (if removed).
(3) Insert the sensor in the differential housing.
(4) Install the sensor shield.
(5) Install the sensor mounting stud and tighten to
24 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the brake line on the sensor stud and
install the nut.
(7) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 3 WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR MOUNTING BOLT
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
3 - HUB/BEARINGFig. 4 REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - AXLE HOUSING
5 - 48 BRAKES - ABSDR
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 17). Drive bearing into place with the letter side
of the bearing facing the transmission. Bearing
should be flush with edge of bearing bore.
CAUTION: Do not allow bearing to become cocked
and do not recess bearing.
(3) Install clutch disc, pressure plate and trans-
mission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick dis-
connect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 18).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line
to the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.(5) Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires
(Fig. 19).
(8) Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin.
(9) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reser-
voir is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding
the to the dash panel.
(11) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinders and connecting line in vehi-
cle engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic
line against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
Fig. 17 PILOT BEARING
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
Fig. 18 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 19 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - INTERLOCK CONNECTOR
3 - ROD PIN
6 - 12 CLUTCHDR
PILOT BEARING (Continued)

(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
diameter of the master cylinder push rod eye.
(3) Install clutch master cylinder on dash panel
and tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
(5) Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch
wires.
(6) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
(7) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Install slave cylinder and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
(10) Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts to 23
N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) Ifnewclutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cyl-
inder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is con-
nected to the slave cylinder, it should never be dis-
connected.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position switch (CPPS) is mounted
on the clutch master cylinder push rod (Fig. 20). The
wiring harness connector is inside of the vehicle
under the left side of the instrument panel.
NOTE: Switch is serviced with clutch master cylin-
der.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent
starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed. An input from this switch is also used to
either shut down/prevent operation of the speed con-
trol system when pedal is depressed. The position
switch is an integral part of the clutch master cylin-
der push rod.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
(1) Disconnect switch 2-wire connector attached to
pedal support bracket, under instrument panel to left
of clutch pedal (Fig. 21).(2) Check switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal.
²Pedal Depressed - Continuity
²Pedal Released - No Continuity
(3) If continuity is not present or always present,
replace clutch master cylinder. Switch is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 20 LOCATION, CLUTCH PEDAL
POSITION SWITCH
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
Fig. 21 CLUTCH SWITCH TEST POINT
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
DRCLUTCH 6 - 13
LINKAGE (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
INCONSISTENT (ERRATIC,
CYCLES OR FLUCTUATES)1. Heavy duty cooling system,
extreme cold ambient (outside)
temperature or heater blower motor
in high position.1. None. System operating normally.
NOTE: Information on daash cluster
is displayed based on broadcast
data from ECM. DTC will be set for
engine sensore circuit wiring.2. Temperature gauge or sensor
defective.2. Check cluster or engine coolant
temp sensor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Temporary heavy usage or load. 3. None. Normal condition.
4. Air trapped in cooling system. 4. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
5. Water pump 5. Replace water pump.
6. Air leak on suction side of water
pump.6. Check for leak. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
RADIATOR CAP LEAKING STEAM
AND /OR COOLANT INTO
RESERVOIR BOTTLE.
(TEMPERATURE GAUGE MAY
READ HIGH)1. Radiator cap defective. 1. Replace radiator cap.
2. Radiator neck surface damaged. 2. Replace radiator.
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHEN ENGINE IS COOLING.1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
reservoir/overflow system.1. Replace radiator cap, check vent
hose between radiator and reservoir
bottle for blockage also check
reservoir bottle vent for blockage.
NOISY FAN 1. Fan blade(s) loose, damaged. 1. Replace fan blade assembly.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive.2. None. Normal condition.
3. Fan blades striking surrounding
objects.3. Locate contact point and repair
as necessary.
4. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive bearing concern.4. Check viscous fan drive (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
5. Electronically controlled viscous
fan stuck on.5. Check viscous fan drive(Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
6. Obstructed air flow through
radiator.6. Remove obstruction.
DRCOOLING 7 - 9
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Temperature gauge reading is
inconsistent (fluctuates, cycles or is
erratic)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and
repair if necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
3. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. Gauge should return
to normal range after vehicle is
driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. The gauge should
return to normal range after a few
minutes of engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air
will build up in the cooling system
causing the thermostat to open
late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a
thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head
gasket leaks. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine
oil. Inspect for white steam emitting
from the exhaust system. Repair as
necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace
as necessary. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/WATER PUMP -
REMOVAL).
8. Loose accessory drive belt.
(water pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Check and correct as necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of
the water pump allows air to build
up in cooling system causing
thermostat to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as
necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT
TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap
and cap seals. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING). Replace cap as
necessary.
7 - 14 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

(4) Install the fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly
to the water pump shaft (Fig. 3). Tighten mounting
nut to 50 N´m (37 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the coolant reserve/overflow container
to the fan shroud.
(6) Connect the negative battery cable.
NOTE:
Viscous Fan Drive Fluid Pump Out Requirement:
After installing a new viscous fan drive, bring the
engine speed up to approximately 2000 rpm and
hold for approximately two minutes. This will
ensure proper fluid distribution within the drive.
RADIATOR FAN - 5.9L DIESEL
REMOVAL
CAUTION: If the electronically controlled viscous
fan drive is replaced because of mechanical dam-
age, the cooling fan blades should also be
inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, or chipped
blades that could have resulted from excessive
vibration. Replace fan blade assembly if any of
these conditions are found. Also inspect wiring har-
ness and connectors for damage.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove coolant recovery container (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOVERY CON-
TAINER - REMOVAL).
(3) Using a fastener removal tool, remove the two
push pin fasteners from the fan shroud lower half.
(4) Unseat the four fastening tabs and remove the
lower radiator shroud.
(5) Disconnect electrical connector.
(6) Remove the electronically controlled viscous fan
drive electrical wire from the upper radiator shroud.
(7) Using a fastener removal tool, remove the wir-
ing harness bracket from the upper radiator shroud.
CAUTION: Do not remove the fan pulley bolts. This
pulley is under spring tension.
(8) The electronically controlled viscous fan drive/
fan blade assembly is attached (threaded) to the fan
pulley shaft (Fig. 4). Remove the fan blade/fan drive
assembly from fan pulley by turning the mounting
nut counterclockwise (as viewed from front). Threads
on the viscous fan drive areRIGHT-HAND.A36
MM Fan Wrench can be used. Place a bar or screw-
driver between the fan pulley bolts to prevent pulley
from rotating.
(9) Remove the upper radiator shroud mounting
bolts.(10) Remove the fan shroud and the fan blade/vis-
cous drive as an assembly from vehicle.
CAUTION: The electronically controlled viscous fan
drive is vibration and impact sensitive, especially at
the electrical connectors. Do not drop the unit.
(11) Remove the six fan blade-to-viscous fan drive
mounting bolts.
(12) Inspect the fan for cracked, chipped or dam-
aged fan blades.
CLEANING
Clean the fan blades using a mild soap and water.
Do not use an abrasive to clean the blades.
INSPECTION
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BEND OR
STRAIGHTEN FAN BLADES IF FAN IS NOT WITHIN
SPECIFICATIONS.
CAUTION: If fan blade assembly is replaced
because of mechanical damage, water pump and
viscous fan drive should also be inspected. These
components could have been damaged due to
excessive vibration.
Fig. 4 Fan Blade/Viscous Fan Drive - 5.9L Diesel
1 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
2 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
3 - FAN BLADE
4 - BOLT (6)
5 - RADIATOR FAN PULLEY
DRENGINE 7 - 35
RADIATOR FAN - GAS ENGINES (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install fan blade assembly to electrically con-
trolled viscous fan drive. Tighten mounting bolts to
24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position the fan blade/viscous fan drive to the
vehicle as an assembly.
(3) Install the viscous fan drive assembly onto fan
pulley hub shaft (Fig. 4). Tighten mounting nut to
115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install upper fan shroud. Make sure the upper
shroud locks into the tabs on the lower radiator.
(5) Install two upper shroud mounting bolts.
Tighten to 11.8 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Position the electronically controlled viscous
fan drive wiring into the channel in the upper fan
shroud (Fig. 5). Make sure the wiring is not pinched.
(7) Install the lower fan shroud into position and
verify the two locking tabs have seated.
(8) Install two push pin fasteners to lock lower fan
shroud to the main assembly.
NOTE: Verify that the fan drive electrical wire does
not interfere with fan blade travel when the fan
blade is spun by hand.
(9) Connect the wiring harness connector and
install the harness bracket to the upper radiator
shroud.(10) Install the coolant recovery container (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOVERY
CONTAINER - INSTALLATION).
(11) Connect the battery negative cables.
NOTE:
Viscous Fan Drive Fluid Pump Out Requirement:
After installing a new viscous fan drive, bring the
engine speed up to approximately 2000 rpm and
hold for approximately two minutes. This will
ensure proper fluid distribution within the drive.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater is available with
all models. The heater is equipped with a power cord.
The cord is attached to an engine compartment com-
ponent with tie-straps. The heater warms the engine
providing easier engine starting and faster warm-up
in low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core
hole of the engine cylinder block in place of a freeze
plug with the heating element immersed in engine
coolant. The 3.7L/4.7L gas powered engines have the
block heater located to the rear on the right side of
the engine (Fig. 6).
OPERATION
The heater warms the engine coolant providing
easier engine starting and faster warm-up in low
temperatures. Connecting the power cord to a
grounded 110-120 volt AC electrical outlet with a
grounded three wire extension cord provides the elec-
tricity needed to heat the element.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE BLOCK
HEATER
If the unit does not operate, possible causes can be
either the power cord or the heater element. Test the
power cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or
110-volt test light. Test heater element continuity
with an ohmmeter or a 12-volt test light.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must
be secured in it's retainer clips and away from any
components that may cause abrasion or damage,
such as linkages, exhaust components, etc.
Fig. 5 Electronically Controlled Viscous Fan Drive
Wiring
1 - UPPER SHROUD
2 - WIRING
3 - GROMMET
7 - 36 ENGINEDR
RADIATOR FAN - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐTHERMOSTAT
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
Allgasoline powered modelsare equipped with
On-Board Diagnostics for certain cooling system com-
ponents. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the
Diagnosis section of this group for additional infor-
mation. If the powertrain control module (PCM)
detects low engine coolant temperature, it will record
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM mem-
ory. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heat as
indicated by the instrument panel gauge or by poor
heater performance unless a DTC is present. Refer to
the Diagnosis section of this group for other probable
causes.
The DTC can also be accessed through the
DRBIIItscan tool. Refer to the appropriate Power-
train Diagnostic Procedures information for diagnos-
tic information and operation of the DRBIIItscan
tool.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOT
AND PRESSURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
If the thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
the replacement is the specified thermostat for the
vehicle model and engine type.
Factory installed thermostat housings on 5.9L
engine is installed on a gasket with an anti-stick
coating. This will aid in gasket removal and clean-up.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Drain the cooling system until the coolant level
is below the thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Air Conditioned vehicles: Remove the support
bracket (generator mounting bracket-to-intake mani-
fold) located near the rear of the generator (Fig. 17).
NOTE: On air conditioning equipped vehicles, the
generator must be partially removed.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL) (Fig. 18).
(5) Remove the generator mounting bolts. Do not
remove any of the wiring at the generator. If
equipped with 4WD, unplug the 4WD indicator lamp
wiring harness (located near rear of generator).
(6) Remove the generator. Position the generator
to gain access for the thermostat gasket removal.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
Fig. 16 Thermostat - 5.7L/5.9L Gas Powered
Engines
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - GASKET
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
4 - THERMOSTAT
5 - MACHINED GROOVE
Fig. 17 Generator Support Bracket ± 5.9L Engine
1 - IDLER PULLEY BUSHING
2 - A/C AND/OR GENERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - SCREW AND WASHER
7 - 42 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L (Continued)

CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of the constant tension clamps (Fig. 19). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with a matching number, letter
and width.
(7) Remove the radiator upper hose clamp and
upper hose at the thermostat housing.
(8) Position the wiring harness (behind thermostat
housing) to gain access to the thermostat housing.(9) Remove the thermostat housing mounting
bolts, thermostat housing, gasket and thermostat
(Fig. 20). Discard old gasket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the mating areas of the intake manifold
and thermostat housing.
(2) Install the thermostat (spring side down) into
the recessed machined groove on the intake manifold
(Fig. 20).
(3) Install the gasket on the intake manifold and
over the thermostat (Fig. 20).
(4) Position the thermostat housing to the intake
manifold.Note:The word FRONT stamped on hous-
ing (Fig. 21). For adequate clearance, thismustbe
placed towards the front of the vehicle. The housing
is slightly angled forward after the installation to the
intake manifold.
(5) Install the housing-to-intake manifold bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the radiator upper hose to the thermo-
stat housing.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 22) for the
correct 5.9L engine belt routing. The correct belt
with correct length must be used.
Fig. 18 Automatic Belt Tensioner ± 5.9L Engines
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - TENSIONER
3 - FAN BLADE
Fig. 19 SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
Fig. 20 Thermostat ± 5.9L Engines
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - GASKET
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
4 - THERMOSTAT
5 - MACHINED GROOVE
DRENGINE 7 - 43
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L (Continued)