tow DODGE RAM 2002 Service Owners Manual
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Page 1061 of 2255

tribution points for the electrical current required to
operate all of the many standard and optional facto-
ry-installed electrical and electronic powertrain,
chassis, safety, security, comfort and convenience sys-
tems. At the same time, the power distribution sys-
tem was designed to provide ready access to these
electrical distribution points for the vehicle techni-
cian to use when conducting diagnosis and repair of
faulty circuits. The power distribution system can
also prove useful for the sourcing of additional elec-
trical circuits that may be required to provide the
electrical current needed to operate many accessories
that the vehicle owner may choose to have installed
in the aftermarket.
SPECIAL TOOLS
POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS
CIGAR LIGHTER OUTLET
DESCRIPTION
A cigar lighter is standard equipment on this
model. The cigar lighter is installed in the instru-
ment panel next to the ash receiver, which is located
near the center of the instrument panel, below the
radio. The cigar lighter base is secured by a snap fit
within the instrument panel.
The cigar lighter knob and heating element unit,
and the cigar lighter receptacle unit are available for
service. These components cannot be repaired and, if
faulty or damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
The cigar lighter consists of two major components:
a knob and heating element unit, and the cigar
lighter base or receptacle shell. The receptacle shell
is connected to ground, and an insulated contact in
the bottom of the shell is connected to battery cur-
rent. The cigar lighter receives battery voltage from afuse in the junction block only when the ignition
switch is in the Accessory or On positions.
The knob and heating element are encased within
a spring-loaded housing, which also features a sliding
protective heat shield. When the knob and heating
element are inserted in the receptacle shell, the heat-
ing element resistor coil is grounded through its
housing to the receptacle shell. If the cigar lighter
knob is pushed inward, the heat shield slides up
toward the knob exposing the heating element, and
the heating element extends from the housing toward
the insulated contact in the bottom of the receptacle
shell.
Two small spring-clip retainers are located on
either side of the insulated contact inside the bottom
of the receptacle shell. These clips engage and hold
the heating element against the insulated contact
long enough for the resistor coil to heat up. When the
heating element is engaged with the contact, battery
current can flow through the resistor coil to ground,
causing the resistor coil to heat.
When the resistor coil becomes sufficiently heated,
excess heat radiates from the heating element caus-
ing the spring-clips to expand. Once the spring-clips
expand far enough to release the heating element,
the spring-loaded housing forces the knob and heat-
ing element to pop back outward to their relaxed
position. When the cigar lighter knob and element
are pulled out of the receptacle shell, the protective
heat shield slides downward on the housing so that
the heating element is recessed and shielded around
its circumference for safety.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CIGAR LIGHTER
OUTLET
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toCigar
Lighterin Wiring Diagrams.
WARNING: REFER TO THE PASSIVE RESTRAINT
SECTION OF THE SERVICE MANUAL BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE
PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCI-
DENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE
PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Check the fused ignition switch output (run/ac-
cessory) fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step
2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component
as required and replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Turn the ignition switch to the On position.
Check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch
output (run/accessory) fuse in the junction block. If
OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the open fused
Terminal Pick Kit 6680
8W - 97 - 2 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTIONBR/BE
POWER DISTRIBUTION (Continued)
Page 1063 of 2255

(8) Remove the cigar lighter or power outlet mount
from the instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reconnect the instrument panel wire harness
connector to the cigar lighter or power outlet recep-
tacle base connector receptacle.
(2) Install the cigar lighter or power outlet mount
into the instrument panel.
(3) Align the splines on the outside of the cigar
lighter or power outlet receptacle base connector
receptacle with the grooves on the inside of the
mount.
(4) Press firmly on the cigar lighter or power out-
let receptacle base until the retaining bosses of the
mount are fully engaged in their receptacles.
(5) Install the cigar lighter knob and element into
the cigar lighter receptacle base, or the protective cap
into the power outlet receptacle base.
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
CIRCUIT BREAKER
DESCRIPTION
Automatic resetting circuit breakers are used to
protect a system circuit from a short circuit or over-
load. Some examples of his condition can be caused
by an obstructed or stuck seat adjuster or power win-
dow motor.
The circuit breaker cannot be repaired and, if
faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CIRCUIT BREAKER
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to Wir-
ing Diagrams.
(1) Locate the correct circuit breaker in the junc-
tion block. Pull out the circuit breaker slightly, but
be certain that the circuit breaker terminals still con-
tact the terminals in the junction block cavities.
(2) Connect the negative lead of a 12-volt DC volt-
meter to a good ground.
(3) With the voltmeter positive lead, check both
terminals of the circuit breaker for battery voltage.
If only one terminal has battery voltage, the circuit
breaker is faulty and must be replaced. If neither ter-
minal has battery voltage, repair the open circuit
from the Power Distribution Center (PDC) as
required.
GENERATOR CARTRIDGE
FUSE
DESCRIPTION
A 140 ampere generator cartridge fuse is used on
this model. The generator cartridge fuse is similar to
other cartridge fuses found in the Power Distribution
Center (PDC). This fuse has a color-coded plastic
housing and a clear plastic fuse conductor inspection
cover like other cartridge fuses, but has a higher cur-
rent rating and is connected and secured with screws
instead of being pushed onto male spade-type termi-
nals. The generator cartridge fuse cannot be repaired
and, if faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
The generator cartridge fuse is secured between
the two B(+) terminal stud connection bus bars
within the Power Distribution Center (PDC). This
fuse protects the vehicle electrical system from dam-
age that could be caused by excessive charging sys-
tem output and/or excessive electrical system current
levels resulting from a faulty generator or faulty
charging system control circuits. If the current rating
of the fuse is exceeded, the fuse conductor melts to
open the generator output circuit connection to the
PDC. If a generator cartridge fuse fails, be certain to
completely inspect and test the vehicle charging sys-
tem before replacing the fuse and returning the vehi-
cle to service. Refer toCharging Systemfor the
charging system diagnostic procedures. Refer toWir-
ing Diagramsfor the location of complete PDC cir-
cuit diagrams.
REMOVAL
If a generator cartridge fuse fails, be certain to
inspect and test the vehicle charging system before
replacing the cartridge fuse and returning the vehicle
to service. Refer toCharging Systemin the index of
this service manual for the charging system diagnos-
tic procedures.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Unlatch and remove the cover from the Power
Distribution Center (PDC).
(3) Remove the two screws that secure the genera-
tor cartridge fuse to the two B(+) terminal stud bus
bars within the PDC.
(4) Remove the generator cartridge fuse from the
PDC.
INSTALLATION
If a generator cartridge fuse fails, be certain to
inspect and test the vehicle charging system before
replacing the cartridge fuse and returning the vehicle
8W - 97 - 4 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTIONBR/BE
CIGAR LIGHTER OUTLET (Continued)
Page 1066 of 2255

tor between many of the engine compartment, instru-
ment panel, and body wire harnesses. The JB houses
up to nineteen blade-type fuses (two standard-type
and seventeen mini-type), up to two blade-type auto-
matic resetting circuit breakers, the electronic combi-
nation turn signal and hazard warning flasher, and
one International Standards Organization (ISO)
micro-relay.
The molded plastic JB housing has integral mount-
ing brackets that are secured with two screws to the
left instrument panel end bracket. The left end of the
instrument panel cover has a snap-fit fuse access
panel that can be removed for service of the JB. A
fuse puller and spare fuse holders are located on the
back of the fuse access cover, as well as an adhesive-
backed fuse layout map to ensure proper fuse identi-
fication.
The JB unit cannot be repaired and is only ser-
viced as an assembly. If any internal circuit or the JB
housing is faulty or damaged, the entire JB unit
must be replaced.
OPERATION
All of the circuits entering and leaving the JB do
so through up to nine wire harness connectors, which
are connected to the JB through integral connector
receptacles molded into the JB housing. Internal con-
nection of all of the JB circuits is accomplished by an
intricate combination of hard wiring and bus bars.
Refer toWiring Diagramsfor the location of com-
plete JB circuit diagrams.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - JUNCTION BLOCK
The junction block does not incorporate any self
diagnostic capability. Most of the electrical circuits
incorporated into the vehicle must pass through the
junction block at one point or another. The most effi-
cient means of diagnosing a suspected junction block
problem involves a simple continuity tester or ohm
meter. Using the Wiring Diagrams as a guide trace
the problem circuit to the proper junction block cav-
ity and test all circuits in the effected circuit for
proper continuity. A open or high resistance circuit is
a sign of a problem. Some other possible junction
block problems to look for are:
²Loose fuse receptacle terminals.
²Loose relay / circuit breaker receptacle termi-
nals.
²Bent or distorted electrical circuit pins.
²Incorrect size fuse installed in junction block
fuse cavity.
²Dark areas identifying a source of excess heat.
²Defective fuse, relay or circuit breaker installed
in junction block cavity.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the fuse access bezel from the instru-
ment panel.
(3) Remove the steering column cover (Refer to 23
- BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COL-
UMN OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the hood release handle retaining
screws and position the handle assembly out of the
way.
(5) Remove the lower knee blocker from the instru-
ment panel.
(6) Pull drivers side carpet down, out of the way.
(7) Remove the parking brake switch connector,
release linkage and retaining fasteners and position
the assembly out the drivers door opening.
(8) Remove the electrical ground connections,
located behind park brake mounting location.
(9) Remove the two junction block retaining
screws. To access the upper retaining screw a 15 inch
long #2 Phillips screwdriver will be required. Access
the upper screw through hole in dash support brace.
(10) Reach through the outboard side of the instru-
ment panel steering column opening to access and
disconnect all of the wire harness connectors from
the Junction Block (JB) connector receptacles (Fig.
6).
Fig. 6 Junction Block Remove/Install
1 - I.P. End Bracket
2 - Junction Block
3 - Screws
BR/BE8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION 8W - 97 - 7
JUNCTION BLOCK (Continued)
Page 1067 of 2255

(11) Remove the junction block from under the
instrument panel.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If the Junction Block (JB) is being replaced
with a new unit, be certain to transfer each of the
fuses, circuit breakers and relays from the faulty JB
to the proper cavities of the replacement JB. Refer
to Junction Block in the index of this service man-
ual for the location of complete circuit diagrams
and cavity assignments for the JB.
(1) Position the junction block under the instru-
ment panel.
(2) Connect all of the wire harness connectors on
the Junction Block (JB) connector receptacles.
(3) Install the two junction block retaining screws.
(4) Install the electrical ground connections,
located behind park brake mounting location.
(5) Install the parking brake switch connector,
release linkage and retaining fasteners.
(6) Reposition drivers side carpet.
(7) Install the lower knee blocker on the instru-
ment panel.
(8) Install the hood release handle retaining
screws.
(9) Install the steering column cover.
(10) Install the fuse access bezel on the instrument
panel.
(11) Connect the battery negative cable.
POWER DISTRIBUTION
CENTER
DESCRIPTION
All of the electrical current distributed throughout
this vehicle is directed through the standard equip-
ment Power Distribution Center (PDC) (Fig. 7). The
molded plastic PDC housing is located in the left
front corner of the engine compartment, just behind
the battery. The PDC houses the generator cartridge
fuse and up to twelve maxi-type cartridge fuses,
which replace all in-line fusible links. The PDC also
houses up to thirteen blade-type fuses (two standard-
type and eleven mini-type), up to seventeen Interna-
tional Standards Organization (ISO) relays (five
standard-type and twelve micro-type), two joint con-
nectors (one eighteen-way and one twenty-eight-way),
a forty-three-way engine wire harness in-line connec-
tor and a fuse puller.
The PDC housing is secured in the engine compart-
ment on the outboard side with two screws to the left
front inner fender shield, and with a screw on the
inboard side to the left front inner wheel house. ThePDC housing has a molded plastic cover that
includes two integral latches, one on each side. The
PDC cover is easily opened and removed for service
access and has a convenient adhesive-backed fuse
and relay layout map affixed to the inside surface of
the cover to ensure proper component identification.
The PDC unit cannot be repaired and is only ser-
viced as a unit with the headlamp and dash wire
harness. If the internal circuits or the PDC housing
are faulty or damaged, the headlamp and dash wire
harness unit must be replaced.OPERATION
All of the current from the battery and the gener-
ator output enters the PDC through two cables with
eyelets that are secured with nuts to the two B(+)
terminal studs located just inside the inboard end of
the PDC housing. The PDC cover is unlatched and
removed to access the battery and generator output
connection B(+) terminal studs, the fuses, the relays,
the joint connectors and the engine wire harness in-
line connector. Internal connection of all of the PDC
circuits is accomplished by an intricate combination
of hard wiring and bus bars. Refer toWiring Dia-
gramsfor the location of complete PDC circuit dia-
grams.
REMOVAL
The Power Distribution Center (PDC) is serviced
as a unit with the headlamp and dash wire harness.
If any internal circuit of the PDC or the PDC hous-
Fig. 7 Power Distribution Center Location
1 - POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER
8W - 97 - 8 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTIONBR/BE
JUNCTION BLOCK (Continued)
Page 1074 of 2255

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RELAY
The relays are located in the junction block or
power distribution center. For complete circuit dia-
grams, refer toWiring Diagrams.
(1) Remove the relay from its mounting location.
(2) A relay in the de-energized position should
have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and
no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go
to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(3) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (elec-
tromagnet) should be 60.7 - 80.3 ohms. If OK, go to
Step 4. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(4) Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86.
There should now be continuity between terminals
30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A
and 30. If OK, perform the Relay Circuit Test that
follows. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
(1) The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) of
the junction block or power distribution center is con-
nected to battery voltage and should be hot at all
times. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) cir-
cuit cavity in the junction block receptacle for the
relay. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the fused
B(+) circuit to the Power Distribution Center (PDC)
fuse as required.
(2) The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is
connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position,
but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
(3) The relay normally open terminal (87) is con-
nected to the common feed terminal (30) in the ener-
gized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage
to the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block that feedsthe accessory when the relay is energized by the igni-
tion switch. There should be continuity between the
junction block cavity for relay terminal 87 and the
fused B(+) fuse in the junction block at all times. If
OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open fused
B(+) circuit to the junction block fuse as required.
(4) The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to
the electromagnet in the relay. It receives battery
feed to energize the relay when the ignition switch is
in the Accessory or Run positions. Turn the ignition
switch to the On position. Check for battery voltage
at the fused ignition switch output (acc/run) circuit
cavity for relay terminal 85 in the junction block
receptacle for the relay. If OK, go to Step 5. If not
OK, repair the open fused ignition switch output
(acc/run) circuit to the ignition switch as required.
(5) The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to
the electromagnet in the relay. The junction block
cavity for this terminal should have continuity to
ground at all times. If not OK, repair the open
ground circuit to ground as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the relay by grasping it firmly and
pulling it straight out from its receptacle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the relay to the proper receptacle.
(2) Align the relay terminals with the terminal
cavities in the receptacle.
(3) Push firmly and evenly on the top of the relay
until the terminals are fully seated in the terminal
cavities in the receptacle.
BR/BE8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION 8W - 97 - 15
RELAY (Continued)
Page 1086 of 2255

mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 11
ENGINE 5.9L (Continued)
Page 1105 of 2255

REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be done in vehicle. How-
ever the transmission must be removed first.
(1) If crankshaft is to be removed while engine is
in vehicle remove the transmission. Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PUMP - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Identify rod bearing caps before removal.
Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.
CAUTION: Support crankshaft before removing
main bearing caps. failure to do so will allow the
crankshaft to fall damaging the crankshaft.
(7) Using a suitable jack, support the crankshaft.
(8) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
Remove main bearing caps and bearings one at a
time.
(9) Lower the crankshaft out of the block.
(10) Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil
seals.
(11) Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil
seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean Gasket Maker residue and sealant from
the cylinder block and rear cap mating surface. Dothis before applying the MopartGasket Maker and
the installation of rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 23). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than 2 times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(12) Install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Position the connecting rods onto the crank-
shaft and install the rod bearing caps. Tighten the
nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 22 Crankshaft with Journal Size Identification
Fig. 23 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER 5 mm (0.20 IN.) ON BOTH SIDES
OF REAR MAIN CAP
9 - 30 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)
Page 1109 of 2255

LOWER SEAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard
the old lower seal.
INSTALLATION
The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The
upper seal half can be installed with crankshaft
removed from engine or with crankshaft installed.
When a new upper seal is installed, install a new
lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT REMOVED
(1) Clean the cylinder block rear cap mating sur-
face. Be sure the seal groove is free of debris. Check
for burrs at the oil hole on the cylinder block mating
surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing toward the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 31). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(11) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
32). Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(12) Install new front crankshaft oil seal (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - FRONT - INSTALLATION).(13) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before
oil seal installation. Check for burrs at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at
least the two main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.
Fig. 31 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT SLOTS
2 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER (OR EQUIVALENT)
3 - CAP ALIGNMENT SLOT
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
Fig. 32 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap-to-Block Joint
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT NOZZLE
TIP
2 - SEALANT APPLIED
3 - CYLINDER BLOCK
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
9 - 34 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)
Page 1110 of 2255

(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder
block, being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To ensure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing toward the rear
of the engine.
(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing toward
the rear of the engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 31). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap-to-block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
32). Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
LOWER SEAL
(1) Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces
including the oil pan gasket groove.
(2) Carefully install a new upper seal. Refer to
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED .
(3) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(4) Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with
the white paint facing the rear of engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 31). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing.
Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove distributor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/DISTRIBUTOR - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(3) Insert Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Puller
Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a
tight fit is obtained (Fig. 33).
(4) Hold puller screw and tighten puller nut until
bushing is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Dis-
tributor Drive Shaft Bushing Driver/Burnisher Tool
C-3053. Insert the tool and bushing into the bore.
(2) Drive bushing and tool into position, using a
hammer (Fig. 34).
(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing,
the bushing is expanded tight in the block and bur-
nished to correct size (Fig. 35).DO NOT ream this
bushing.
Fig. 33 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Removal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3052
2 - BUSHING
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 35
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)
Page 1112 of 2255

ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 36).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1)
Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch) diam-
eter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tappet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and
pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.
When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm
away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal
position.
(6) Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer
with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and
tighten the hex nut.
(7)
Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push rod.
(8) Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the
base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2
seconds.
(9) Observe the leak-down time interval from the
instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on
the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125
mark. A normally functioning tappet will require
20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with
leak-down time interval not within this specification.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the air cleaner assembly and air in-let
hose.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove rocker assembly and push rods (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify push rods
to ensure installation in original locations.
(4) Remove intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove yoke retainer and aligning yokes.
(6) Slide Hydraulic Tappet Remover/Installer Tool
C-4129-A through opening in cylinder head and seat
tool firmly in the head of tappet.(7) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location.
(8) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.
CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets with MopartEngine Oil
Supplement or equivalent.
(2) Install tappets and push rods in their original
positions. Ensure that the oil feed hole in the side of
the tappet body faces up (away from the crankshaft).
(3) Install aligning yokes with ARROW toward
camshaft.
(4) Install yoke retainer. Tighten the bolts to 23
N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque. Install intake manifold
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYL-
INDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install air cleaner assembly and air in-let hose.
Fig. 36 Leak-Down Tester
1 - POINTER
2 - WEIGHTED ARM
3 - RAM
4 - CUP
5 - HANDLE
6 - PUSH ROD
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L 9 - 37
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)