wheel DODGE RAM 2002 Service Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 2002, Model line: RAM, Model: DODGE RAM 2002Pages: 2255, PDF Size: 62.07 MB
Page 41 of 2255

SPECIAL TOOLS
LINK/COIL SUSPENSION
HUB / BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the hub extension mounting nuts and
remove the extension from the rotor if equipped (Fig.
2).(4) Remove the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the cotter pin and the hub nut from
the axle shaft (Fig. 3).
(6) Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire
from under the hood. Remove the sensor wire from
the frame and steering knuckle if equipped.
(7) Back off the hub/bearing mounting bolts 1/4
inch each (Fig. 4). Then tap the bolts with a hammer
to loosen the hub/bearing from the steering knuckle.
(8) Remove the hub/bearing mounting bolts and
remove the hub/bearing.
Puller C-3894±A
Remover, Wheel Stud C-4150A
Fig. 2 Hub Extension
1 - HUB EXTENSION
2 - HUB
Fig. 3 Hub Nut Cotter Pin
1 - HUB NUT
2 - COTTER PIN
Fig. 4 Hub/Bearing Mounting Bolts
1 - SOCKET AND EXTENSION
2 - ROTOR AND HUB
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - 16 FRONT - 4WDBR/BE
FRONT - 4WD (Continued)
Page 42 of 2255

(9) Remove the rotor assembly (Fig. 5), brake
shield and spacer from the steering knuckle.
(10) Press out the wheel studs/hub extension studs
and separate the rotor from the hub (Fig. 6).
(11) Remove the wheel speed sensor (Fig. 7) from
the hub bearing if equipped.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wheel speed sensor in the hub bear-
ing if equipped.
(2) Position the rotor on the hub/bearing.
(3) Press the wheel studs/hub extension studs
through the back side of the rotor and through the
hub bearing flange (Fig. 8).
Fig. 5 Rotor Hub/Bearing Assembly
1 - ROTOR AND HUB
2 - UNIT BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - SEAL
Fig. 6 Rotor And Hub/Bearing
1 - HUB BEARING
2 - ROTOR
Fig. 7 Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - HUB BEARING
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
Fig. 8 Rotor, Hub/Bearing And Stud
1 - HUB BEARING
2 - ROTOR
3 - STUD
BR/BEFRONT - 4WD 2 - 17
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
Page 43 of 2255

(4) Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound
to the splines of the front drive shaft.
(5) Insert the two rearmost, top and bottom rotor
hub bolts in the steering knuckle. Insert the bolts
through the back side of the knuckle so they extend
out the front face as shown.
(6) Position the hub spacer (Fig. 9) and brake
shield (Fig. 10) on bolts just installed in knuckle.
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with a wheel speed
sensor the brake shield must be positioned on the
hub bearing (Fig. 11).
(7) Align the rotor hub with the drive shaft and
start the shaft into the rotor hub splines.
NOTE: Position wheel speed sensor wire at the top
of the knuckle if equipped.
(8) Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange
with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread
the bolts into the bearing flange far enough to hold
the assembly in place.
(9) Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/
bearing bolts to 166 N´m (122 ft. labs.
(10) Install the washer and hub nut and tighten to
245 N´m (180 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install a new cotter pin in the hub nut.
Tighten the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole
in the shaft with the opening in nut.
(12) Install the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle
and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed
sensor wire under the hood.(14) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(15) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(16) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehi-
cle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
Fig. 9 Hub Spacer
1 - ROTOR HUB BOLTS
2 - HUB SPACER (POSITION FLAT TO REAR)
3 - APPLY ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND TO SPLINES
Fig. 10 Brake Shield
1 - BRAKE SHIELD
2 - HUB BEARING BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 11 Brake Shield With Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - HUB BEARING
3 - SHIELD
2 - 18 FRONT - 4WDBR/BE
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
Page 49 of 2255

(4) Install links, retainers, grommets and nuts to
the stabilizer bar. Hold the link shaft with a wrench
and tighten the nuts to 37 N´m (27 ft. lbs.).
(5) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
TRACK BAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRACK BAR
(1) Turn the front wheel 90É to the left of center.
(2) Mount a dial indicator to the left frame rail in
front of the track bar ball joint (Fig. 25).
(3) Position the dial indicator plunger on the ball
joint end cap next to the grease fitting and zero the
indicator.
NOTE: Dial indicator plunger must be perpendicular
to the ball joint end cap.
(4) Turn the front wheel 180É to the right and
record the dial indicator reading. Repeat this step
three times and record all readings.
(5) If any of the readings exceed 2.03 mm (0.080
in) replace the track bar.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball
stud end at the frame rail bracket (Fig. 26).
(3) Remove ball stud from bracket with Puller
C-4150A (Fig. 27).
(4) Remove the bolt and flag nut from the axle
bracket and remove the track bar (Fig. 26).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the track bar at axle bracket. Loosely
install the retaining bolt and flag nut.
(2) Pry the axle assembly over to install the track
bar at the frame rail bracket.
(3) Install the retaining nut on the stud. Tighten
the ball stud nut to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.). Install a new
cotter pin.
(4) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(5) Tighten the bolt at the axle bracket to 176 N´m
(130 ft. lbs.).Fig. 25 Dial Indicator Location
1 - TRACK BAR BALL JOINT
Fig. 26 Track Bar
1 - AXLE BRACKET
2 - FRAME BRACKET
3 - TRACK BAR
4 - FLAG NUT
Fig. 27 Track Bar Puller
1 - TRACK BAR
2 - PULLER
2 - 24 FRONT - 4WDBR/BE
STABILIZER BAR (Continued)
Page 56 of 2255

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT......................1
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI....................14
REAR AXLE - 248RBI.....................46REAR AXLE - 267RBI.....................78
REAR AXLE - 286RBI....................107
PROPELLER SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPELLER
SHAFT...............................1
STANDARD PROCEDURES................3
SPECIFICATIONS
PROPELLER SHAFT....................6
SPECIAL TOOLS
PROPELLER SHAFT....................6
PROPELLER SHAFT - FRONT
REMOVAL.............................6
INSTALLATION..........................7
PROPELLER SHAFT - REAR
REMOVAL.............................7INSTALLATION..........................7
CENTER BEARING
REMOVAL.............................8
INSTALLATION..........................8
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - CENTER BEARING........8
SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS
DISASSEMBLY..........................8
ASSEMBLY.............................9
DOUBLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS
DISASSEMBLY.........................10
ASSEMBLY............................11
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPELLER
SHAFT
VIBRATION
Tires that are out-of-round or wheels that are
unbalanced will cause a low frequency vibration.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Brake drums that are unbalanced will cause a
harsh, low frequency vibration. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)Driveline vibration can also result from loose or
damaged engine mounts.
Propeller shaft vibration increases as the vehicle
speed is increased. A vibration that occurs within a
specific speed range is not usually caused by a pro-
peller shaft being unbalanced. Defective universal
joints or an incorrect propeller shaft angle, are usu-
ally the cause of such a vibration.
BR/BEDIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE 3 - 1
Page 57 of 2255

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
3) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.3) Install new yoke.
4) Incorrect driveline angularity. 4) Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5) Rear spring center bolt not in
seat.5) Loosen spring u-bolts and seat
center bolt.
6) Worn U-joint bearings. 6) Install new U-joint.
7) Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.7) Installl new propeller shaft.
8) Broken rear spring. 8) Install new rear spring.
9) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.9) Re-index propeller shaft, test,
and evaluate.
10) Excessive drive pinion gear
shaft runout.10) Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
11) Excessive axle yoke deflection. 11) Inspect and replace yoke if
necessary.
12) Excessive transfer case runout. 12) Inspect and repair as necessary.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Replace as U-joints as
necessary.
BALANCE
NOTE: Removing and re-indexing the propeller
shaft 180É relative to the yoke may eliminate some
vibrations.
If propeller shaft is suspected of being unbalanced,
it can be verified with the following procedure:
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Clean all the foreign material from the propel-
ler shaft and the universal joints.
(3) Inspect the propeller shaft for missing balance
weights, broken welds and bent areas.If the propel-
ler shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the universal joints to ensure that they
are not worn, properly installed and correctly aligned
with the shaft.
(5) Check the universal joint clamp screws torque.
(6) Remove the wheels and tires. Install the wheel
lug nuts to retain the brake drums or rotors.
(7) Mark and number the shaft six inches from the
yoke end at four positions 90É apart.(8) Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration
occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration
occurred. Stop the engine.
(9) Install a screw clamp at position 1 (Fig. 1).
(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/2 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
3 - 2 PROPELLER SHAFTBR/BE
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)
Page 58 of 2255

(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.
RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If propeller shaft runout is out of specification,
remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É and
re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft runout
again.
(6) If propeller shaft runout is now within specifi-
cations, mark the shaft and yokes for proper orienta-
tion.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES
To accurately check driveline alignment, raise and
support the vehicle at the axles as level as possible.
Allow the wheels and propeller shaft to turn.
(1) Remove any external bearing snap rings, if
equipped from universal joint so protractor base sits
flat.
(2) Rotate the shaft until transmission/transfer
case output yoke bearing is facing downward.
NOTE: Always make measurements from front to
rear and from the same side of the vehicle.
Fig. 1 Clamp Screw At Position 1
1 - CLAMP
2 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 2 Two Clamp Screws At The Same Position
Fig. 3 Clamp Screws Separated
1 - ó INCH
BR/BEPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)
Page 70 of 2255

During straight-ahead driving, the differential pin-
ion gears do not rotate on the pinion mate shaft. This
occurs because input torque applied to the gears is
divided and distributed equally between the two side
gears. As a result, the pinion gears revolve with the
pinion mate shaft but do not rotate around it (Fig. 1).
When turning corners, the outside wheel must
travel a greater distance than the inside wheel to
complete a turn. The difference must be compensated
for to prevent the tires from scuffing and skidding
through turns. To accomplish this, the differential
allows the axle shafts to turn at unequal speeds (Fig.
2). In this instance, the input torque applied to the
pinion gears is not divided equally. The pinion gears
now rotate around the pinion mate shaft in opposite
directions. This allows the side gear and axle shaft
attached to the outside wheel to rotate at a faster
speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through thepeak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
Fig. 1 DIFFERENTIAL-STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING
1 - IN STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING EACH WHEEL ROTATES AT
100% OF CASE SPEED
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - PINION GEARS ROTATE WITH CASE
Fig. 2 DIFFERENTIAL-ON TURNS
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
BR/BEFRONT AXLE - 248FBI 3 - 15
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)
Page 71 of 2255

LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out of balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged) can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
3 - 16 FRONT AXLE - 248FBIBR/BE
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)
Page 72 of 2255

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
Differential Cracked 1. Improper adjustment of the
differential bearings.1. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set differential bearing pre-load
properly.
2. Excessive ring gear backlash. 2. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Set ring gear backlash properly.
3. Vehicle overloaded. 3. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid excessive vehicle weight.
4. Erratic clutch operation. 4. Replace case and inspect gears
and bearings for further damage.
Avoid erratic use of clutch.
Differential Gears Scored 1. Insufficient lubrication. 1. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid type
and quantity.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Replace scored gears. Fill
differential with the correct fluid type
and quantity.
3. Excessive spinning of one
wheel/tire.3. Replace scored gears. Inspect all
gears, pinion bores, and shaft for
damage. Service as necessary.
Loss Of Lubricant 1. Lubricant level too high. 1. Drain lubricant to the correct
level.
2. Worn axle shaft seals. 2. Replace seals.
3. Cracked differential housing. 3. Repair as necessary.
4. Worn pinion seal. 4. Replace seal.
5. Worn/scored yoke. 5. Replace yoke and seal.
6. Axle cover not properly sealed. 6. Remove, clean, and re-seal
cover.
Axle Overheating 1. Lubricant level low. 1. Fill differential to correct level.
2. Improper grade of lubricant. 2. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
3. Bearing pre-loads too high. 3. Re-adjust bearing pre-loads.
4. Insufficient ring gear backlash. 4. Re-adjust ring gear backlash.
BR/BEFRONT AXLE - 248FBI 3 - 17
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)