engine oil DODGE RAM 2003 Service Owner's Manual

and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that hasbecome covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(6) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Install the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(10) Install wheel and tire assembly.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and
caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt
could enter the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the
master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 33).
The correct fluid level is to the MAX indicator on
the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the
proper level.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
Fig. 32 CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT - REAR
1 - CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT
2 - AXLE TUBE
3 - MOUNTING STUDS
Fig. 33 FLUID LEVEL
1 - FLUID RESERVOIR
2 - MAX LEVEL MARK
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEDR
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT (Continued)

CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with turning equipment. Remove only
enough material to reduce scoring (approximately
0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal isnot rec-
ommended.Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the fly-
wheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction.
Fault conditions are listed at the top of each chart.
Conditions, causes and corrective action are outlined
in the indicated columns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
Clutch is running partially
disengaged.1. Release bearing sticking or
binding and does not return to the
normal running position.1. Verify failure. Replace the release
bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer as necessary.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 3
CLUTCH (Continued)

DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM FLOW -
5.9L DIESEL
The diesel engine cooling system consists of :
²Cross-flow radiator
²Belt driven water pump
²Belt driven mechanical cooling fan
²Electronic viscous fan drive
²Fan shroud
²Radiator pressure cap²Vertically mounted thermostat
²Coolant reserve/recovery system
²Transmission oil cooler
²Coolant
Coolant flow circuits for the 5.9L diesel engine are
shown in (Fig. 3).
Fig. 1 Engine Cooling System Flow - 3.7L/4.7L
1 - LH CYL. HEAD
2 - BLEED
3 - THERMOSTAT LOCATION
4 - RH CYL. HEAD
5 - RH BANK CYL. BLOCK6 - LH BANK CYL. BLOCK
7 - COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR
8 - FROM HEATER CORE
9 - TO HEATER CORE
7 - 2 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leak
that does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TESTÐWITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DIESEL ENGINE
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSISÐDIESEL ENGINE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOWNOTE:
Information on dash cluster is
displayed based on broadcast data
from ECM. DTC will be set for
engine sensor circuit concern.1. Vehicle is equipped with a heavy
duty cooling system.1. None. System operating normally.
2. Thermostat stuck open 2. Inspect and test thermostat.
3. Coolant level low. 3. Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
4. Temperature gauge not
functioning correctly.4. Check cluster (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRCOOLING 7 - 7
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS HIGH OR THE
COOLANT WARNING LAMP
ILLUMINATES. COOLANT MAY
OR MAY NOT BE LOST OR
LEAKING FROM THE COOLING
SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep
hill is being climbed, vehicle is
operated in slow moving traffic,
or engine is being idled with
very high ambient (outside)
temperatures and the air
conditioning is on. Higher
altitudes could aggravate these
conditions.1. This may be a temporary condition and
repair is not necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the
vehicle without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge. The gauge should return to the
normal range. If the gauge does not return
to the normal range, determine the cause
for overheating and repair. Refer to
Possible Causes (2-18).
2. Is the temperature gauge
reading correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT CLUSTER -
SCHEMATIC - ELECTRICAL). Repair as
necessary.
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL).
4. Coolant low in coolant
reserve/overflow tank and
radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed
tightly. If cap is loose, boiling
point of coolant will be lowered.
Also refer to the following Step
6.5. Tighten cap
6. Poor seals at the radiator
cap.6. (a) Check condition of cap and cap
seals. Refer to Radiator Cap. Replace cap
if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace
radiator (5.9L) or degas bottle (3.7L, 4.7L).
7. Coolant level low in radiator
but not in coolant reserve/
overflow tank. This means the
radiator is not drawing coolant
from the coolant reserve/
overflow tank as the engine
cools (5.9L).7. (a) Check condition of radiator cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator Cap in this
Group. Replace cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace
radiator.
(c) Check condition of the hose from the
radiator to the coolant tank. It should fit
tight at both ends without any kinks or
tears. Replace hose if necessary.
(d) Check coolant reserve/overflow tank
and tanks hoses for blockage. Repair as
necessary.
8. Incorrect coolant
concentration8. Check coolant. (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
9. Coolant not flowing through
system9. Check for coolant flow at radiator filler
neck with some coolant removed, engine
warm and thermostat open. Coolant
should be observed flowing through
radiator. If flow is not observed, determine
area of obstruction and repair as
necessary.
7 - 12 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Temperature gauge reading is
inconsistent (flucttuates, cycles
or is erratic)1. During cold weather
operation, with the heater blower
in the high position, the gauge
reading may drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective
or shorted. Also, corroded or
loose wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and repair if
necessary. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
3. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. Gauge should return to normal
range after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. The gauge should return to
normal range after a few minutes of
engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator
(air will build up in the cooling
system causing the thermostat
to open late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks. (Refer
to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a
thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket
leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil.
Inspect for white steam emitting from the
exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/WATER PUMP - REMOVAL).
8. Loose accessory drive belt.
(water pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Check and correct as
necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of
the water pump allows air to
build up in cooling system
causing thermostat to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR
COOLANT TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING MAY BE ABOVE
NORMAL BUT NOT HIGH.
COOLANT LEVEL MAY BE
HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in
radiator cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap and cap
seals. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Replace cap
as necessary.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT
PRESSURE CAP BLOWOFF.
GAUGE READING HIGH OR
HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator,
cooling system hoses, water
pump or engine.1. Pressure test and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
7 - 14 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR CAP WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOT
AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
THE COOLANT OR HIGH PRESSURE STEAM CAN
OCCUR.
For 3.7L / 4.7L/5.9L engines, remove the radiator
cap from the coolant degas bottle to add coolant.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Automatic Belt Tensioner to
BlockÐBolts 41 30 Ð
Automatic Belt Tensioner
PulleyÐBolt 61 45 Ð
Block HeaterÐBolt 2 Ð 17
Generator/Compressor
Mounting BracketÐBolts
# 1 and 2 54 40 Ð
# 3 40 30 Ð
Fan Shroud to Radiator
MountingÐBolts6Ð55
Radiator to Support - Bolts 8.5 Ð 75
Fan Blade to Viscous Fan
DriveÐBolts24 18 Ð
Idler PulleyÐBolt 54 40 Ð
Thermostat HousingÐBolts
- All Except 5.9L13 Ð 112
Thermostat HousingÐBolts
- 5.9L23 16 Ð
Power Steering Oil Cooler
Ð Bolts6Ð55
Transmission Auxiliary Oil
CoolerÐBolts 6 Ð 55
Transmission Oil Cooler
Tube Nuts31.5 24 Ð
Coolant Bottle Ð Bolts 8.5 Ð 75
Transmission Oil Cooler to
Transmission - 5.9L/46RE -
Tube Nuts 31.5 24 Ð
Transmission Oil Cooler to
Transmission - 3.7L/4.7L/
45RFE - Tube Nuts20 18 Ð
Water PumpÐBolts 24 18 Ð
Water Pump Ð Bolts - 4.7L 58 43 Ð
SPECIFICATIONS -
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
3.7/4.7L Engine 15.4L (16.2 qts.)- to the
middle of the cold fill
range
5.7L Engine 15.4L (16.2 qts.)- to the
middle of the cold fill
range
5.9L Engine 15.5L (16.3 qts.)- to the
MIN mark after 3 warm
up, cool down cycles
8.0L Engine 24L (25.3 qts.)
5.9L Diesel Engine 28L (29.5 qts.)
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING
Pliers Constant Pressure Hose Clamp - 6094
3/8º Quick Connect Release Tool - 6935
SPANNER WRENCHÐ6958
7 - 20 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

NOTE: A used belt should be replaced if tensioner
indexing arrow has moved to the minimum tension
indicator. Tensioner travel stops at this point.
(1) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove tensioner assembly from mounting
bracket (Fig. 2).
WARNING: BECAUSE OF HIGH SPRING PRES-
SURE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE AUTO-
MATIC TENSIONER. UNIT IS SERVICED AS AN
ASSEMBLY EXCEPT FOR PULLEY ON TENSIONER.
(3) Remove pulley bolt. Remove pulley from ten-
sioner.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install pulley and pulley bolt to tensioner.
Tighten bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) An indexing slot is located on back of tensioner.
Align this slot to the head of the bolt on the front
cover. Install the mounting bolt. Tighten bolt to 41
N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(4) Check belt indexing marks (Fig. 1).
BELT TENSIONERS - 5.9L
DESCRIPTION
Correct drive belt tension is required to ensure
optimum performance of the belt driven engine acces-
sories. If specified tension is not maintained, belt
slippage may cause; engine overheating, lack of
power steering assist, loss of air conditioning capac-
ity, reduced generator output rate, and greatly
reduced belt life.
It is not necessary to adjust belt tension on the
3.9L or 5.9L engines. These engines are equipped
with an automatic belt tensioner (Fig. 3). The ten-
sioner maintains correct belt tension at all times.
Due to use of this belt tensioner, do not attempt to
use a belt tension gauge on 3.9L or 5.9L engines.
OPERATION
The automatic belt tensioner maintains belt ten-
sion by using internal spring pressure, a pivoting
arm and pulley to press against the drive belt.
REMOVAL
WARNING: BECAUSE OF HIGH SPRING PRES-
SURE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE AUTO-
MATIC TENSIONER. UNIT IS SERVICED AS AN
ASSEMBLY (EXCEPT FOR PULLEY).
(1) Remove accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect wiring and secondary cable from
ignition coil.
(3) Remove ignition coil from coil mounting
bracket (two bolts). Do not remove coil mounting
bracket from cylinder head.
(4) Remove tensioner assembly from mounting
bracket (one nut) (Fig. 4).
Fig. 2 AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER - 3.7L/4.7L
ENGINE
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - BOLT TORQUE TO 41 N´m (30 FT LBS)
3 - AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
Fig. 3 Automatic Belt Tensioner - 5.9L Engines
1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
2 - COIL AND BRACKET
3 - SCREW AND WASHER
DRACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 23
BELT TENSIONERS - 3.7L / 4.7L (Continued)