lug pattern DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service User Guide

RETAINER - CRANK REAR OIL SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine
oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 Nꞏm (44 ft. lbs.)
torque.
4. Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
5. Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
6. Remove flywheel adapter plate.
7. Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
8. Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL) and
transmission adapter plate assembly.
9. Remove four 4 oil pan rear bolts. Slide a feeler
gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan gasket
to break the seal.
10. Remove the six 6 retainer-to-block bolts (3).
11. Remove the rear seal retainer, and gasket (2).
12. Support the seal retainer and drive out the crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
1. If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft seal
must be replaced.
2. Inspect oil pan gasket for nicks or cuts. If gasket is
damaged, the oil pan must be removed and gasket
must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
3. Using the retainer alignment/seal installation tool
provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block, using a new gasket. Tighten the six (6)
mounting bolts by hand.
4. The seal alignment tool is used to align rear cover
properly. Starting with the center two bolts, tighten
the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 Nꞏm (89 in.
lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.

3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.
5.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method
as follows:
1. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the cylinder head covers and plug or cap the outlet on the covers.
2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 6.89 kPa (1 psi) to 17.23 kPa (2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water
at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply. Remove the air hose, allplugs, and caps. Connect the PCV
hoses. Proceed to next step.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube to oil pan location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using Mopar
Stud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube applications only), and for O-ring style tubes, remove
tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove clutch housing inspection cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check
for the oil leak. If a leak is present in this area, remove transmission for further inspection.
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup plug or rear
crankshaft seal retainer gasket leak. See proper repair procedures for these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, replace component(s) as
necessary.

INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft
bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of a sand-cast aluminum alloy. The cylinder block has interference-fit cast iron cylinder
liners. The cylinder liners are thermally installed during block manufacturing; they are not serviceable items.
Six iron main bearing caps use four bolts per cap; two vertical and two horizontal. A crankshaft oil scraper is
attached to the main bearing caps via extended main bearing cap bolts and nuts.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern. The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings.
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
CAUTION: Remove all gasket material from cylinder block using a plastic gasket scraper and MoparBrake
Parts Cleaner or the equivalent, this will prevent damage to the cylinder block.
1. When cleaning the cylinder block, remove the oil gallery plugs at the front and rear of the block.
2. Spray compressed air into all oil gallery passages to ensure they are clear of blockage.
3. Use a wooden or plastic scraper and MOPAR
Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent to remove the old gasket.
4. Clean the oil passages in the crankshaft with a brush.

d. Push overdrive piston into position in retainer.
e. Verify that the locating lugs entered the lug bores in the retainer.
6. Install intermediate shaft spacer on intermediate shaft.
7. Install overdrive piston thrust plate on overdrive piston.
8. Install overdrive piston thrust bearing on overdrive piston.
9. Install transmission speed sensorand o-ring seal in overdrive case.
INSTALLATION
1. Be sure overdrive unit Alignment Tool 6227-2 is
fully seated before moving unit. If tool is not seated
and gear splines rotate out of alignment, overdrive
unit will have to be disassembled in order to realign
splines.
2. If overdrive piston retainer was not removed during
service and original case gasket is no longer reus-
able, prepare new gasket by trimming it.
3. Cut out old case gasket (1) around piston retainer
with razor knife (2).
4. Use old gasket as template and trim new gasket to
fit.
5. Position new gasket over piston retainer and on
transmission case. Use petroleum jelly to hold gas-
ket in place if necessary. Do not use any type of
sealer to secure gasket. Use petroleum jelly only.
6. Install selective spacer (1) on intermediate shaft
(3), if removed. Spacer goes in groove just rear-
ward of shaft rear splines.
7. Install thrust bearing in overdrive unit sliding hub. Use petroleum jelly to hold bearing in position.
CAUTION: Be sure the shoulder on the inside diameter of the bearing is facingforward.
8. Verify that splines in overdrive planetary gear and overrunning clutchhub are aligned with Alignment Tool 6227-2.
Overdrive unit cannot be installed if splines are not aligned. If splines have rotated out of alignment, unit will
have to be disassembled to realign splines.
9. Carefully slide Alignment Tool 6227-2 out of overdrive planetary gear and overrunning clutch splines.
10. Raise overdrive unit and carefully slide it straight onto intermediate shaft. Insert park rod into park lock reaction
plug at same time. Avoid tilting overdrive during installation as this could cause planetary gear and overrunning
clutch splines to rotate out of alignment. If this occurs, it will be necessary to remove and disassemble overdrive
unit to realign splines.
11. Work overdrive unit forward on intermediate shaft until seated against transmission case.
12. Install bolts attaching overdrive unit to transmission unit. Tightenbolts in diagonal pattern to 34 Nꞏm (25 ft-lbs).
13. Connect the transmission speed sensor and overdrive wiring connectors.
14. Install the transfer case, if equipped. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/TRANSFER CASE - INSTAL-
LATION)

CAUTION: 3500 Dual rear tires have a new tire
rotation pattern. This is to accommodate the out-
lined white letter (OWL) tires. When replacing a
flat, the spare tire may have to be remounted on
the rim or installed at a different location to main-
tain the correct placement of the outlined white
letter (OWL) tires.
The recommended method of tire rotation for dual rear
wheel is. Other methods can be used, but may not
provide the same tire longevity benefits.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION Nꞏm Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
1500 Series
Lug Nut 9/16 X 18 with
60° Cone
LD176 130 —
2500 Series
Lug Nut 9/16 X 18 with
60° Cone
HD SRW190 140 —
3500 Series
Lug Nut 9/16 X 18 with
Flat Washer
HD DRW197 145 —

6– bolt pattern.
Wheels must be replaced if they have:
Excessive runout
Bent or dented
Leak air through welds
Have damaged bolt holes
Wheel repairs employing hammering, heating, or welding are not allowed.
Original equipment wheels are available through your dealer. Replacement wheels from any other source should be
equivalent in:
Load carrying capacity
Diameter
Width
Offset
Mounting configuration
Failure to use equivalent replacement wheels may affect the safety and handling of your vehicle. Replacement with
usedwheels is not recommended. Their service history may have included severetreatment.
DUAL REAR WHEELINSTALLATION
Dual rear wheels use a special heavy duty lug nut wrench. It is recommended to remove and install dual rear
wheels only when the proper wrench is available. The wrench is also use to remove wheel center caps for more
information refer to Owner’s Manual.
The tires on both wheels must be completely raised off the ground when tightening the lug nuts. This will ensure
correct wheel centering and maximum wheel clamping.
A two piece flat face lug nut with right-hand threads is
used for retaining the wheels on the hubs.
The dual rear wheel lug nuts should be tightened
according to the following procedure:
NOTE: Do not use more then two drops of oil on
the nut/washer (1), since the center caps attach in
this area.
Place two drops of oil to the interface of the nut/
washer (1) before installing on the wheel stud.

Tighten the wheel lug nuts in the numbered sequential pattern until they are snug tight. Then tighten lug nut to
specified torque following same number sequence, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).
Tighten lug nuts in same numbered sequence a second time to the specified torque. This will ensure that the
wheels are thoroughly mated.
Check lug nut specified torque after 100 miles (160 kilometers). Also after 500 miles (800 kilometers) of vehicle
operation.
NOTE: Wheel lug nuts should be tightened to specified torque at every maintenance interval thereafter.