air filter DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Owner's Guide

5.EVAPORATIVE EMISSION LEAK DETECTION
NOTE: A thorough visual inspection of the Evap system hoses, tubes, and connections may save time in
your diagnosis. Look for any physical damage or signs of wetness at connections. The strong smell of fuel
vapors may also aid diagnosis.
To continue testing, you will need Miller Tool #8404A Evaporative Emissions Leak Detector (EELD).
Remove the Air supply hose from the service port (if equipped) or from the #8404-ADP adapter.
Connect the SMOKE supply tip (black hose) to the service port (if equipped)or to the #8404-ADP adapter.
Set the smoke/air control switch to SMOKE.
NOTE: The flow meter indicator ball will not move in the smoke mode.
Press the remote smoke/air start button.
NOTE: Make sure that smoke has filled the EVAP system by continuing to presstheremotesmoke/airstart
button, remove the vehicle fuel cap, and wait for the smoke to exit. Once smoke is indicated reinstall the
fuel cap.
NOTE: For optimal performance, introduce smoke into the system for an additional 60 seconds; continue
introducing smoke at 15 second intervals, as necessary.
While still holding the remote smoke/air start button, use the white light(#8404-CLL) to follow the EVAP system
path, and look for the source of the leak indicated by exiting smoke.
If a leak is concealed from view (i.e., top of fuel tank), release the remotesmoke/air start button, and use the ultra-
violet (UV) black light #8404-UVL and the yellow goggles 8404-20 to look for residual traces of dye that is left
behind by the smoke.
The exiting smoke deposits a residual fluid that is either bright green or bright yellow in color when viewed with a
UV light.
NOTE: Carefully inspect the vent side of the EVAP Canister. Due to the filtering system in the canister the
smoke may not be as thick. Introducing smoke into the filtered side of the canister may assist in locating
the leak.
NOTE: The EVAP System is divided into three zones. A leak from any of these zonescancausethisDTCto
set. The lists below specify the possible leak points in that specific zone. For further assistance see the
Zone Identification Charts below.
ZONE 1
1FuelCap
2 Recirculation Check Valve.
3 Vapor Recirculation Line.
4 Signal Vapor Line for FVM.
5 Flow Management Valve.
6 Fuel Tank to Canister Vapor Line connection.
7 Fuel Tank Vent (Check Valve).
8 Vapor Line to Canister.
9 Flow Control Orfice.
10 Control Valve.
11 Liquid Trap.
12 Fuel Tank.
13 Check valve.
14 Fuel Fill Tube to Tank connector.
15 Fuel Fill Tube
Damaged or disconnected EVAP system components.
ZONE 2
1Filter.
2LDP.
3 Canister Vent Line.

6.LEAK AT GAS CAP
Remove the SMOKE supply tip (black hose) from the service port (if equipped) or to the #8404–ADP adapter.
Install gas cap adapter, Miller Tool #8382 (1/4 turn cap) or #6922 (screw cap) and #8399* (secondary seal depres-
sor) and repeat test 5.
Was a leak found at the gas cap adapter?
Ye s>>
Replace the Fuel Filler tube assembly.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No>>
Replace the gas cap.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
7.LEAK DETECTION PUMP
Apply an external vacuum to the LDP.
Using a scan tool, close the LDP seal to atmosphere.
Inject smoke into the Evap system using the EELD.
Examine the LDP filter port for smoke.
Is smoke visible from the LDP?
Ye s>>
Replace the Leak Detection Pump.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No>>
Go To 8
8.EVAP PURGE SOLENOID OPERATION
To continue testing you will need Miller Tool #8404 Evaporative Emission Leak Detector (EELD).
Connect the red power lead of the EELD to the battery positive terminal and the black ground lead to the battery
negative ternal.
Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the Evap Purge Solenoid.
Connect the SMOKE supply tip (black hose) to the service port (if equipped)or to the #8404-ADP adapter.
Set the smoke/air control switch to SMOKE.
Press the remote smoke/air start button.
NOTE: Below is an optional method of checking the purge valve for leaks if the EELD is unavailable.
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the Evap Purge Solenoid.
Using a hand vacuum pump, apply 10 in Hg to the
CANof the EVAP Purge Solenoid.
With the scan tool, actuate the Evap Purge Solenoid.
NOTE: If the Evap Purge Solenoid does not hold a vacuum, it will need to be repalced..
Is smoke visible from the Evap Purge Solenoid?
Ye s>>
Replace the Evap Purge Solenoid.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No>>
Te s t C o m p l e t e .

(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) - PERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)—MECHANICAL for possible causes and corrections of malfunctions. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specificengine malfunctions that can not be iso-
lated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagnosis is provided within the
following diagnosis:
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Cylinder Combustion Pressure LeakageTest (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSISAND TESTING).
Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKEMANIFOLD - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Incorrect right bank cam timing. 6. Refer to engine timing in this
section.
7. Dirt or water in fuel system. 7. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
8.Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 8.Repair or replace as necessary.
9. Faulty cam or crank sensor 9. Refer to Ignition system.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Vacuum leak. 1. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
2. Faulty crank position sensor 2. Replace crank position sensor.
3. Faulty coil. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
4. Incorrect cam timing. 4. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
1. ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt or water in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
4. Blown cylinder head gasket. 4. Replace cylinder head gasket.
5. Low compression. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), repair
as necessary.
6. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
8. Faulty coil. 8. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
9. Incorrect cam timing. 9. Refer to Engine TIming in this
section.
1. ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt in fuel system. 2. Clean fuel system.
3. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 3. Replcae as necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
1. ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH
SPEED1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Faulty coil. 2. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
3. Dirt or water in fuel system. 3. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. Misaligned
or damaged.1. Replace as necessary.
(a) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(a) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR -
REMOVAL).
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
5. Timing chain cover seal,
damaged or misaligned.5. Replace seal (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT
- REMOVAL).
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PRESSURE SENSOR/SWITCH -
REMOVAL).
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER
- REMOVAL).
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace oil pump (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP
- REMOVAL).
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Replace oil pump (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP
- REMOVAL).
9. Oil pick up tube loose, damaged
or clogged.9. Replace as necessary.

ELEMENT - AIR CLEANER
REMOVAL
Filter Element Only
1. Housing removal is not necessary for element (fil-
ter) replacement.
2. Loosen clamp and disconnect air duct at air
cleaner cover.
3. Pry over 4 spring clips (5) from housing cover (3)
(spring clips retain cover to housing).
4. Release housing cover (3) from locating tabs on
housing and remove cover.
5. Remove air cleaner element (filter) from housing.
6. Clean inside of housing before replacing element.
Housing Assembly
1. Loosen clamp and disconnect air duct at air
cleaner cover.
2. Lift entire housing (1) assembly from 4 locating
pins (2).

INSTALLATION
1. Install filter element into housing.
2. Position housing cover into housing locating tabs.
3. Pry up 4 spring clips and lock cover to housing.
4. Install air duct to air cleaner cover and tighten hose clamp to 3 Nꞏm (30 in.lbs.)torque.
5. If any other hose clamps were removed from air intake system, tighten themto3.4Nꞏm(30in.lbs.)torque.
6. If any bolts were removed from air resonator housing or air intake tubing, tighten them to 4.5 Nꞏm (40 in. lbs.)
torque.

COVER - CYLINDER HEAD
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Drain cooling system, below the level of the heater hoses (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
4. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
5. Remove air conditioning compressor retaining bolts and move compressortotheleft.
6. Remove heater hoses.
7. Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
8. Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
9. Remove oil fill tube.
10. Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and move away from cylinderhead cover.
11. Remove right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
12. Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts.
13. Remove cylinder head cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severedamagetocoversmay
occur.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformationhas occurred.
1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 12 Nꞏm (105 in.lbs).
3. Install right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
4. Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connectors and harness retaining clips.
5. Install the oil fill tube.
6. Install PCV hose.
7. Install heater hoses.
8. Install air conditioning compressor retaining bolts.
9. Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
10. Fill Cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
11. Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
12. Connect battery negative cable.

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

SEAL-CRANKSHAFT OIL-REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in
general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible
causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehi-
cle.
1. If being performed in vehicle, remove the transmis-
sion.
2. Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Spe-
cial Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the
seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the
seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Fail-
ure to install tool correctly the first time will cause
tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from
engine.
3. Using Special Tool 8506 (2), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (1)