light DODGE TOWN AND COUNTRY 2001 User Guide

unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually
not noticeable at speeds above 48 km/h (30 mph).
REMOVAL - HUB AND BEARING
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(2) Remove wheel and tire.
(3) Remove brake drum or disc brake caliper and
rotor from hub and bearing. Refer to Brakes.
(4) If equipped with antilock brakes, perform the
following:
(a) Remove secondary (yellow) retaining clip at
rear of wheel speed sensor head (Fig. 8).
(b) Push up on metal retaining clip (Fig. 8) until
it bottoms. This will release wheel speed sensor
head from hub and bearing.
(c) While holding metal clip up, pull back on
wheel speed sensor head removing it from hub and
bearing.
(5) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the hub and bear-
ing to the rear axle.
CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub
and bearing, and the axle. If this occurs the hub
and bearing will be difficult to remove from the
axle. If the hub and bearing will not come out of the
axle by pulling on it by hand, do not pound on the
hub and bearing to remove it from the axle. Damage
will occur. Use the following procedure.(6) If hub and bearing cannot be removed from the
axle by hand, use Remover, Special Tool 8458 (Fig. 9)
and following procedure to press the hub and bearing
out of the axle.
(a) Thread Threaded Guide Pins into hub and
bearing mounting bolt holes.
(b) Remove the two outboard spring plate bolts.
(c) Using the spring plate bolts, install the
Screw Mount, Special Tool 8458±2, as shown (Fig.
9).
(d) Place Push Plate, Special Tool 8458±1, on
ends of Threaded Guide Pins
(e) Place a dab of grease in dimple of Push
Plate.
(f) Tighten the Forcing Screw, Special Tool
8458±3, up against dimple in Push Plate and press
hub and bearing out of axle by continuing to
tighten screw.
(g) Remove the tool.
(h) Reinstall the two outboard spring plate bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the hub/bearing from the rear axle and
brake support plate.
ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Set the parking brake.The parking brake is
set to keep the hub and bearing, and axle shaft
from rotating when loosening the hub nut.
Fig. 8 SENSOR CONNECTOR AT HUB AND
BEARING
1 - SECONDARY SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
2 - METAL SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
3 - HUB AND BEARING
Fig. 9 REMOVAL USING SPECIAL TOOL 8458
1 - THREADED GUIDE PINS 8458-4
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - LEAF SPRING PLATE
4 - FORCING SCREW 8458-3
5 - SCREW MOUNT 8458-2
6 - PUSH PLATE 8458-1
RSREAR2-31
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(2) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication And
Maintenance.
(3) Remove the wheel/tire assembly.
(4) Remove the cotter pin and nut retainer (Fig.
19) from the stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(5) Remove the spring washer (Fig. 18) from the
stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(6) Remove the hub nut and washer (Fig. 16) from
the stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(7) Remove the 6 bolts (Fig. 17) mounting the
driveshaft inner joint to the output shaft of the rear
drive line module.
(8) Remove the rear wheel speed sensor (Fig. 20)
from the rear hub/bearing.
(9) Release the parking brake.
(10) Remove the disc brake caliper to adapter
guide pin bolts (Fig. 15).
(11) Remove rear caliper from adapter using the
following procedure. First rotate rear of caliper up
from the adapter. Then pull the front of the caliper
and the outboard brake shoe anti-rattle clip out from
under the front abutment on the adapter (Fig. 14).
(12) Support caliper to prevent the weight of the
caliper from damaging the flexible brake hose (Fig.
10).
(13) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing.
(14) Remove driveshaft from rear drive line mod-
ule and hub/bearing. Driveshaft is removed by first
compressing the inner joint on the driveshaft and
removing it from the drive line module. Then, slide
the outer joint of the driveshaft out of the hub/bear-
ing.(15) Remove the hub/bearing to axle mounting
bolts (Fig. 13).
CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub/
bearing and the axle. If this occurs the hub/bearing
will be difficult to remove from the axle. If the hub/
bearing will not come out of the axle by pulling on
it by hand, do not pound on the hub/bearing to
remove it from the axle. Pounding on the hub/bear-
ing to remove it from the axle will damage the hub/
bearing. This damage will result in noise or failure
of the hub/bearing. To remove a hub/bearing which
is corroded to the axle, lightly tap the disc brake
caliper adapter using a soft faced hammer. This will
remove both the disc brake caliper adapter and
hub/bearing from the axle. The hub/bearing will
then need to be removed from the caliper adapter.
(16) Remove the hub/bearing from the axle. (Fig.
12).
(17) If the disc brake caliper adapter and hub/
bearing were removed as an assembly from the axle
and the hub/bearing cannot be removed from the
adapter by hand, use the following procedure to
remove it from the adapter. With a helper supporting
the caliper adapter in his hands, position Remover,
Special Tool 8214-1 on the cast housing of hub/bear-
ing (Fig. 11).Do not position special tool on
inner race of hub/bearing.Lightly strike Remover,
Special Tool 8214-1 with a hammer to remove the
hub/bearing from the caliper adapter.
Fig. 10 Correctly Supported Caliper
1 - WIRE
2 - CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER
4 - ROTOR
5 - INNER FENDER
Fig. 11 Hub/Bearing Removal From Caliper Adapter
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8214-1
2 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
3 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
4 - HUB/BEARING
2 - 32 REARRS
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(8) Install spring plate bolts (Fig. 34). Tighten
bolts to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install lower shock absorber bolt.Do not
tighten at this time.
(10) Remove jack under axle.
(11) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
CAUTION: The following sequence must be fol-
lowed when tightening the pin nuts on the rear
hanger for the rear leaf spring. First the hanger pin
nuts must be tightened to the specified torque
shown below. Then tighten the retaining bolts for
the inner to outer half of the spring hanger to the
torque specification listed below. This sequence
must be followed to properly seat the bushings into
the springs and to avoid bending the spring hanger.
(12) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Tighten rear spring shackle pin nuts to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Tighten rear spring shackle inner to outer
half retaining bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
SPRING MOUNTS - FRONT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on frame-contact hoist as follows:
(a) Position the hoist arm supporting the corner
of the vehicle to be serviced against a block of wood
placed on the body sill as shown (Fig. 38).
(b) Position the remaining hoist arms at each
corner of the vehicle in the normal fashion. (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(c) Raise the vehicle to a comfortable working
level.
(2) Position an under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack under rear axle toward the side needing
bushing replacement. Jack pad should just contact
axle.
(3) Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt.
NOTE: If shock absorber bolt deflects upward dur-
ing removal, raise axle by adjusting support jack. If
shock absorber bolt deflects downward during
removal, lower axle by adjusting support jack (or by
pulling on axle).
(4) Remove four bolts securing leaf spring front
mounting bracket to the body (Fig. 38).
(5) Using jack,slowlylower rear axle, permitting
the forward end of rear spring to hang down. Lower
it enough to allow access to spring pivot bolt. It maybe necessary to place a wooden block between the
spring and vehicle to hold forward end of the spring
in place.
(6) Remove leaf spring forward pivot bolt, then
remove mounting bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position spring mounting bracket over spring
eye and install pivot bolt through center of bushing
from theoutboardside.
NOTE: The pivot bolt must be installed from the
outboard side to allow proper bracket to body
mounting.
(2) Install the nut on the pivot bolt and lightly
tighten. Do not fully tighten bolt at this time.
(3) Raise the under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack, guiding the forward mounting bracket into
place against the body. It may help to use a drift
punch placed through the hole centered between the
mounting bolt holes in the bracket and the pilot hole
in the body of the vehicle as a guide. When the four
mounting bolt holes line up with their threads in the
body, Install the mounting bolts (Fig. 38). Tighten the
four mounting bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Raise or lower the jack until shock absorber
lower eye aligns with threads in axle housing. Install
Fig. 38 LIFTING POINT AND SPRING MOUNT
1 - BODY SILL AREA
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - SPRING MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - LEAF SPRING
5 - HOIST LIFT ARM
6 - WOODEN BLOCK
2 - 42 REARRS
SPRING - FWD (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - FRONT.....................1
HALF SHAFT - REAR.....................16PROPELLER SHAFT......................24
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE................26
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
DESCRIPTION............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING..................1
HALF SHAFT...........................1
REMOVAL...............................2
INSTALLATION............................5
SPECIFICATIONS.........................7
CV BOOT - INNER
REMOVAL...............................7INSTALLATION............................8
CV BOOT - OUTER
REMOVAL..............................11
INSTALLATION...........................12
OUTER CV JOINT BEARING SHIELD
REMOVAL..............................14
INSTALLATION...........................14
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
DESCRIPTION
All vehicles use an unequal length half shaft sys-
tem (Fig. 1).
The left half shaft uses a tuned rubber damper
weight. When replacing the left half shaft, be sure
the replacement half shaft has the same damper
weight as the original.
All half shaft assemblies use the same type of
inner and outer joints. The inner joint of both half
shaft assemblies is a tripod joint, and the outer joint
of both half shaft assemblies is a Rzeppa joint. Both
tripod joints and Rzeppa joints are true constant
velocity (CV) joint assemblies. The inner tripod joint
allows for the changes in half shaft length through
the jounce and rebound travel of the front suspen-
sion.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
CV joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to deter-
mine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.
The inner tripod joint of both half shafts is splined
into the transaxle side gears. The inner tripod joints
are retained in the side gears of the transaxle usinga snap ring located in the stub shaft of the tripod
joint. The outer CV joint has a stub shaft that is
splined into the wheel hub and retained by a steel
hub nut.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT
VEHICLE INSPECTION
(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard
tripod joint and outboard CV joint; this is a sign of
inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam-
age.
(2) A light film of grease may appear on the right
inner tripod joint seal boot; this is considered normal
and should not require replacement of the seal boot.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could
be caused by one of the following conditions:
²Damaged outer CV or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint.
RSDIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE3-1
ProCarManuals.com

(16) Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting
shaft of half shaft assembly. Remove inner tripod
joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of
transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal (Fig. 10).
When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or
snap-ring drag across sealing lip of the trans-
axle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing
surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal
sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean trans-
mission lubricant.
(2) Holding half shaft assembly by tripod joint and
interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into trans-
axle side gear as far as possible by hand (Fig. 10).
(3) Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting
shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear
of transaxle, until snap-ring is engaged with trans-
axle side gear.Test that snap-ring is fully
engaged with side gear by attempting to
remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If
snap-ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod
joint will not be removable by hand.
(4) Clean all debris and moisture out of steering
knuckle, in the area were outer CV joint will be
installed into steering knuckle.
(5) Ensure that front of outer CV joint which fits
against the face of the hub and bearing is free of
debris and moisture before installing outer CV joint
into hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 11).(6) Slide half shaft back into front hub and bear-
ing assembly.
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckle.
CAUTION: If the vehicle being serviced is equipped
with eccentric strut assembly attaching bolts, the
eccentric bolt must be installed in the bottom (slot-
ted) hole on the strut clevis bracket (Fig. 12).
Fig. 10 Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
1 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
2 - TRANSAXLE
3 - SPLINE
4 - OIL SEAL
5 - SNAP-RING
6 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
Fig. 11 Outer CV Joint Inspection
1 - OUTER CV JOINT
2 - THIS AREA OF OUTER CV JOINT MUST BE FREE OF ALL
DEBRIS AND MOISTURE, BEFORE INSTALLATION INTO
STEERING KNUCKLE.
Fig. 12 Correctly Installed Eccentric Attaching Bolt
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - FLANGED BOLT IN TOP HOLE
3 - CAM BOLT IN BOTTOM HOLE
4 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
RSHALF SHAFT - FRONT3-5
HALF SHAFT - FRONT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

HALF SHAFT - REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - REAR
DESCRIPTION...........................16
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................16
HALF SHAFT..........................16
REMOVAL..............................16INSTALLATION...........................17
SPECIFICATIONS........................18
CV BOOT - INNER/OUTER
REMOVAL..............................18
INSTALLATION...........................20
HALF SHAFT - REAR
DESCRIPTION
The inner and outer joints of both half shaft
assemblies are tripod joints. The tripod joints are
true constant velocity (CV) joint assemblies, which
allow for the changes in half shaft length through
the jounce and rebound travel of the rear suspension.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
CV joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to deter-
mine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.
The inner tripod joint of both half shafts is bolted
rear differential assembly's output flanges. The outer
CV joint has a stub shaft that is splined into the
wheel hub and retained by a steel hub nut.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT
VEHICLE INSPECTION
(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard
tripod joint and outboard CV joint; this is a sign of
inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam-
age.
(2) A light film of grease may appear on the right
inner tripod joint seal boot; this is considered normal
and should not require replacement of the seal boot.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could
be caused by one of the following conditions:
²Damaged outer CV or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint.
²Noise may also be caused by another component
of the vehicle coming in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of one of the following
conditions:²A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of the
half shaft assembly.
²A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer
joint of the half shaft assembly.
²A damaged or worn half shaft CV joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of:
²A worn or damaged half shaft inner tripod joint.
²A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner tri-
pod joint only).
²Improper wheel alignment. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of:
²Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the back-
side of the wheel(s).
²Out of balance tires or wheels. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
²Improper tire and/or wheel runout. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
REMOVAL
(1) Lift vehicle on hoist so that the wheels hang
freely.
(2) Remove rear wheel.
(3) Remove cotter pin, nut lock, and wave washer
(Fig. 1).
(4) Remove hub nut and washer.
CAUTION: The half shaft outer CV joint, when
installed, acts as a bolt and secures the hub/bear-
ing assembly. If the vehicle is to be supported or
moved on its wheels, install and torque a bolt
through the hub. This will ensure that the hub/bear-
ing assembly cannot loosen.
(5) Remove inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig. 2).
3 - 16 HALF SHAFT - REARRS
ProCarManuals.com

(6) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and pull downward to clear
rear differential output flange. Then pull half shaft
assembly outward to remove (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the outer CV joint stub shaft through
the hub bearing (Fig. 4).
(2) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and push upward until the
inner CV joint flange engages the rear differential
output flange.(3) Install the inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig.
5). Torque the bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft.lbs.).
(4) Install the half shaft washer and hub nut.
Torque the hub nut to 244 N´m (180 ft.lbs.).
(5) Install the wave washer, nut lock, and a new
cotter pin (Fig. 6). Be sure to wrap the cotter pin
prongs tightly around the hub nut lock.
(6) Install rear wheel. Torque the lug nuts to 135
N´m (100 ft.lbs.).
Fig. 1 Cotter Pin, Nut Lock, And Wave Washer
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - WAVE WASHER
Fig. 2 Inner Half Shaft Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
Fig. 3 Half Shaft Removal
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
Fig. 4 Half Shaft Installation
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
RSHALF SHAFT - REAR3-17
HALF SHAFT - REAR (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

²Tires
²Road surfaces
²Wheel bearings
²Engine
²Transmission
²Exhaust
²Propeller shaft (vibration)
²Vehicle body (drumming)
Driveline module noises are normally divided into
two categories: gear noise or bearing noise. A thor-
ough and careful inspection should be completed to
determine the actual source of the noise before
replacing the driveline module.
The rubber mounting bushings help to dampen-out
driveline module noise when properly installed.
Inspect to confirm that no metal contact exists
between the driveline module case and the body. The
complete isolation of noise to one area requires
expertise and experience. Identifying certain types of
vehicle noise baffles even the most capable techni-
cians. Often such practices as:
²Increase tire inflation pressure to eliminate tire
noise.
²Listen for noise at varying speeds with different
driveline load conditions
²Swerving the vehicle from left to right to detect
wheel bearing noise.
All driveline module assemblies produce noise to a
certain extent. Slight carrier noise that is noticeable
only at certain speeds or isolated situations should be
considered normal. Carrier noise tends to peak at a
variety of vehicle speeds. Noise isNOT ALWAYSan
indication of a problem within the carrier.
TIRE NOISE
Tire noise is often mistaken for driveline module
noise. Tires that are unbalanced, worn unevenly or
are worn in a saw-tooth manner are usually noisy.
They often produce a noise that appears to originate
in the driveline module.
Tire noise changes with different road surfaces, but
driveline module noise does not. Inflate all four tires
with approximately 20 psi (138 kPa) more than the
recommended inflation pressure (for test purposes
only). This will alter noise caused by tires, but will
not affect noise caused by the differential. Rear axle
noise usually ceases when coasting at speeds less
than 30 mph (48 km/h); however, tire noise contin-
ues, but at a lower frequency, as the speed is
reduced.
After test has been completed lower tire pressure
back to recommended pressure.
GEAR NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR)
Abnormal gear noise is rare and is usually caused
by scoring on the ring gear and drive pinion. Scoringis the result of insufficient or incorrect lubricant in
the carrier housing.
Abnormal gear noise can be easily recognized. It
produces a cycling tone that will be very pronounced
within a given speed range. The noise can occur dur-
ing one or more of the following drive conditions:
²Drive
²Road load
²Float
²Coast
Abnormal gear noise usually tends to peak within
a narrow vehicle speed range or ranges. It is usually
more pronounced between 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64
km/h) and 50 to 60 mph (80 to 96 km/h). When objec-
tionable gear noise occurs, note the driving condi-
tions and the speed range.
BEARING NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND
DIFFERENTIAL)
Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is
constant in pitch and varies with the speed of vehi-
cle. Being aware of this will enable a technician to
separate bearing noise from gear noise.
Drive pinion bearing noise that results from defec-
tive or damaged bearings can usually be identified by
its constant, rough sound. Drive pinion front bearing
is usually more pronounced during a coast condition.
Drive pinion rear bearing noise is more pronounced
during a drive condition. The drive pinion bearings
are rotating at a higher rate of speed than either the
differential side bearings or the axle shaft bearing.
Differential side bearing noise will usually produce
a constant, rough sound. The sound is much lower in
frequency than the noise caused by drive pinion bear-
ings.
Bearing noise can best be detected by road testing
the vehicle on a smooth road (black top). However, it
is easy to mistake tire noise for bearing noise. If a
doubt exists, the tire treads should be examined for
irregularities that often causes a noise that resem-
bles bearing noise.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION NOISE
Sometimes noise that appears to be in the driv-
eline module assembly is actually caused by the
engine or the transmission. To identify the true
source of the noise, note the approximate vehicle
speed and/or RPM when the noise is most noticeable.
Stop the vehicle next to a flat brick or cement wall
(this will help reflect the sound). Place the transaxle
inNEUTRAL. Accelerate the engine slowly up
through the engine speed that matches the vehicle
speed noted when the noise occurred. If the same
noise is produced, it usually indicates that the noise
is being caused by the engine or transaxle.
3 - 28 REAR DRIVELINE MODULERS
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION...........................32
OPERATION.............................32
REMOVAL..............................32
INSTALLATION...........................33
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION...........................33
OPERATION.............................34
STANDARD PROCEDURE..................34
MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDING...........34
REMOVAL..............................34
DISASSEMBLY...........................35
ASSEMBLY.............................36
INSTALLATION...........................36
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION...........................37
OPERATION.............................37
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................38
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER...............38
REMOVAL..............................38
INSTALLATION...........................40
PROPORTIONING VALVE
DESCRIPTION...........................41
OPERATION.............................42
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................42
PROPORTIONING VALVE (HEIGHT
SENSING).............................42
REMOVAL..............................43
INSTALLATION...........................43
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................44BRAKE ROTOR........................44
STANDARD PROCEDURE..................47
BRAKE ROTOR MACHINING..............47
REMOVAL..............................48
INSTALLATION...........................48
SUPPORT PLATE - DRUM BRAKE
REMOVAL..............................48
INSTALLATION...........................49
WHEEL CYLINDERS
REMOVAL..............................50
INSPECTION............................50
INSTALLATION...........................50
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION...........................50
OPERATION.............................51
STANDARD PROCEDURE..................51
PARKING BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
MECHANISM RELEASE..................51
PARKING BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
RESET...............................51
LEVER - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL..............................52
INSTALLATION...........................53
SHOES - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL..............................53
INSTALLATION...........................58
ADJUSTMENTS..........................59
CABLES - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL..............................61
INSTALLATION...........................65
ADJUSTMENTS..........................66
BRAKES - BASE
DESCRIPTION - BASE BRAKES
The base brake system consists of the following
components:
²Brake pedal
²Power brake booster
²Master cylinder
²Brake tubes and hoses
²Proportioning valve (non-ABS vehicles only)
²Disc brakes
²Drum brakes
²Brake lamp switch
²Brake fluid level switch
²Parking brakes
Front disc brakes control the braking of the front
wheels; rear braking is controlled by rear drum
brakes or rear disc brakes depending on options.
The hydraulic brake system is diagonally split on
both the non-antilock braking systems and antilock
braking systems. That means the left front and right
rear brakes are on one hydraulic circuit and the right
front and left rear are on the other.For information on the brake lamp switch, (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERI-
OR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - DESCRIPTION)
Vehicles equipped with the optional antilock brake
system (ABS) use a system designated Mark 20e. It
is available with or without traction control. This
system shares most base brake hardware used on
vehicles without ABS. ABS components are described
in detail in ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM.
OPERATION - BASE BRAKES
When a vehicle needs to be stopped, the driver
applies the brake pedal. The brake pedal pushes the
input rod of the power brake booster into the booster.
The booster uses vacuum to ease pedal effort as force
is transferred through the booster to the master cyl-
inder. The booster's output rod pushes in the master
cylinder's primary and secondary pistons applying
hydraulic pressure through the chassis brake tubes
to the brakes at each tire and wheel assembly.
The parking brakes are foot-operated. When
applied, the parking brake lever pulls on cables that
actuate brake shoes at each rear wheel. These shoes
come in contact with a hub mounted drum (drum for
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASERS
ProCarManuals.com

RED BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR LAMP
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RED BRAKE WARNING
LAMP ON1. Parking brake lever not fully
released.1. Release parking brake lever.
2. Parking brake warning lamp
switch on parking brake lever.2. Inspect and replace switch as necessary.
3. Brake fluid level low in reservoir. 3. Fill reservoir. Check entire system for
leaks. Repair or replace as required.
4. Brake fluid level switch. 4. Disconnect switch wiring connector. If
lamp goes out, replace switch.
5. Mechanical instrument cluster
(MIC) problem.5. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic
information.
6. Amber ABS Warning Indicator
Lamp also illuminated.6. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic
information.
BRAKE NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLICK OR SQUAWK ON
PEDAL APPLICATION1. Brake lamp switch. 1. Replace switch.
2. Brake Transmission Shift Interlock
Linkage.2. Lubricate BTSI linkage.
3. Pedal pivot bushings 3. Lubricate pivot bushings. Replace if
necessary.
DISC BRAKE CHIRP 1. Excessive brake rotor runout. 1. Follow brake rotor diagnosis and testing.
Correct as necessary.
2. Lack of lubricant on brake caliper
slides.2. Lubricate brake caliper slides.
3. Caliper/shoes not fully seated. 3. Reseat caliper/shoes.
DISC BRAKE RATTLE OR
CLUNK1. Broken or missing anti-rattle
spring clips on shoes.1. Replace brake shoes.
2. Caliper guide pins/bolts loose. 2. Tighten guide pins/bolts.
DISC BRAKE SQUEAK AT
LOW SPEED (WHILE
APPLYING LIGHT BRAKE
PEDAL EFFORT)1. Brake shoe linings. 1. Replace brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE CHIRP 1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates.
DRUM BRAKE CLUNK 1. Drum(s) have threaded machined
braking surface.1. Reface or replace drake drums as
necessary.
DRUM BRAKE HOWL OR
MOAN1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride and
at the anchor.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates and at the anchor.
2. Rear brake shoes. 2. Replace rear brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE SCRAPING
OR WHIRRING1. ABS wheel speed sensor or tone
wheel.1. Inspect, correct or replace faulty
component(s).
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASERS
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
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