Neutral safety switch DODGE TRUCK 1993 Service Repair Manual

0 - 12
LUBRICATION
AND
MAINTENANCE

• A vehicle equipped with SAE approved sling-type
towing equipment can be used (Fig. 10). However,
many vehicles are equipped with air dams, spoilers, and/or ground effect panels. In this case a wheel-lift
towing vehicle or a flat-bed hauling vehicle is recom­ mended (Fig. 10). If a flat bed device is used, the ap­
proach angle should not exceed 15 degrees.
GROUND CLEARANCE The lifted wheels of the disabled vehicle should be
a minimum of 10 cm (4 in.) off the ground. Make
sure there is enough clearance at the opposite end.
This is critical when towing over rough terrain. If necessary, the rear ground clearance can be in­creased by removing the wheels from the lifted end
and then towing with the lifted end closer to the
ground. If the rear wheels are removed, secure the
brake drums. A 20 cm (8 in.) ground clearance must
be maintained between brake drums or rotors and the ground.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS The following safety precautions must be consid­
ered when preparing for and during a vehicle towing operation:
• Remove exhaust pipe tips that interfere with the
tow sling and crossbar • Padding should be placed between the tow sling/
crossbar and any painted surfaces
• If the vehicle is damaged, secure the loose and pro­
truding parts
• Always use a safety chain system that is indepen­ dent of the lifting and towing equipment
• When placing tow hooks on the rear axle, position them so they do not damage the brake tubing or
hoses
• Do not allow any of the towing equipment to con­
tact the fuel tank
• Do not tow the vehicle by connecting to the front
or rear shock absorbers
• The operator should not go under a vehicle while
it is lifted by the towing equipment. The vehicle
should first be supported by safety stands
• Do not allow passengers in a vehicle being towed
• Observe all state and local laws involving warning signals, night illumination, speed, etc.
• Do not exceed a towing speed of 48 km/h (30 mph)
• Avoid towing distances of more than 24 km (15
miles) whenever possible • Do not attach tow chains or a tow sling to a
bumper, the steering linkage, the universal joints, or a drive shaft
REAR-END RAISED TOWING It is recommended that the rear-end raised towing
method be used. Vehicles can be towed with the front
wheels on the ground for extended distances at speeds not exceeding 48 km/h (30 mph) (Fig. 11). (1) Attach the J-hooks around the axle shaft tubes
outboard of the rear springs. (2) Position and center the sling under and for­
ward of the rear bumper. (3) Attach safety chains (with pads) at each end of
the rear bumper.
(4) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position to
unlock the steering wheel. (5) Clamp the steering wheel with the front wheels
in the straight ahead position.

CAUTION:
Do not use the steering
column
lock
to

secure
front
wheel
in the straight-ahead
position.

(6) Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL.

POSITION CENTER BAR FORWARD
OF
BUMPER
-
/
J-HOOKS OUTBOARD
OF
SPRINGS
RN967A

Fig. 11 Rear-End
Raised
Towing
FRONT'END RAISED TOWING If a vehicle cannot be towed from the rear, the
front-end raised towing method normally can be
used (Fig. 12). (1) Center the sling with the bumper and position
it at the frame front crossmember.

CAUTION:
Use tow
chains
with
J-hooks
for
con­
necting
to the
disabled
vehicle's
lower
suspension
arms.
Never use
T-hooks.

(2) Route the J-hooks and tow chains over the
steering linkage outboard of the coil spring.
(3) Attach the J-hooks to the outer end of the
lower suspension arms.
(4) Raise the vehicle.
(5.) Attach the safety chains to the disabled vehicle
at the frame rails.
Vehicles equipped with a MANUAL TRANSMIS­
SION can be towed with the rear wheels on the

•

ELECTRICAL
8A - 9
ENGINE STARTER MOTOR TEST PROCEDURES
GENERAL INFORMATION
The starting system consists of an:
• ignition switch
• starter relay
• park/neutral position switch (automatic transmis­ sion)
• clutch switch (diesel engine-manual transmission)
• wiring harness
• battery
• starter motor with an integral solenoid. These components form 2 separate circuits. A high
amperage circuit that feeds the starter motor up to
300+ amps-gas engine; 500+ amps-diesel engine,
and a control circuit that operates on less than 20
amps (Fig. 1).
a.
BATTERY +
1
IGNITION
SWITCH 1 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
•
J
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH
I 4-
"JL"
MOTOR
m, ...
STA3-TERSOLENO,Dnlh
STARTER RELAY

1"

898A-14
Fig.
1 Starting
System
Components

STARTER SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC INSPECTIONS
Before removing any unit from the starter motor
system for repair, perform the following inspections:

BATTERY
INSPECTION
To determine condition of the battery, perform the
testing procedure outlined in the Battery Section.

WIRING INSPECTION
Inspect wiring for damage. Inspect all connections
at the starter motor solenoid, park/neutral position
switch (if equipped), back-up lamp switch connector,
ignition/start switch, and battery (including all
ground connections). Clean and tighten all connec­
tions as required.

SOLENOID, RELAY
AND
IGNITION/START

SWITCH
INSPECTION
Inspect the solenoid, relay and switch to determine
their condition. Also, if equipped with automatic
transmission, inspect condition of the park/neutral position switch. Testing information can be found in
the following pages.
If the following components are working properly
remove the starter motor and follow procedures in
the Testing Section. • battery wiring
switch
solenoid
relay
park/neutral position switch

COLD CRANKING TEST
(1) Battery must first pass load and voltage drop
tests and be fully charged before proceeding. Refer to Battery Test Procedures. (2) Connect a suitable volt-ampere tester to the
battery terminals (Fig. 2). Refer to the operating in­ structions provided with the tester being used.
POSITIVE
CLAMP

898A-15
NEGATIVE
CLAMP
INDUCTION
AMPMETER
CLAMP
Fig.
2
Volt-Amps
Tester
Connections
(Typical)

(3) Fully engage parking brake, place manual
transmission in NEUTRAL, automatic transmission
in PARK. (4) Verify that all lights and accessories are OFF. (5) Remove coil secondary cable from distributor
and connect to ground.
(6) Rotate and hold the ignition switch (key) in the
START position. Note cranking voltage and amper­
age.
(a) If voltage reads above 9.6 volts and amperage
draw reads above (220 amps gas engine) (550 amps
diesel) go to Starter Feed Circuit Tests. (b) If voltage reads 12.5 volts or greater and am-
perate reads 0 to 10 amps, go to Starter Control Circuit Tests.
A cold engine will increase starter motor cur­
rent.

STARTER
FEED
CIRCUIT TESTS
-
(W0LTAGE
DROP
METHOD)
The voltage drop tests will determine if there is ex­
cessive resistance in the high current circuit. When
performing these tests, it is important that the volt­ meter be connected to the terminals that the cables are connected to instead of to the cables themselves.
For example, when testing between the battery and
solenoid, touch the voltmeter test probes to the bat-

9
- 8
ENGINES

• SERVICE DIAGNOSIS (DIESEL ENGINE) - PERFORMANCE

CONDITION
POSSIBLE
CAUSES
COtiECTION

ENGINE
WILL
NOT

CRANK
OR
CRANKS

SLOWLY
Starting
motor operating, but
not cranking the engine.

Crankshaft
rotation restricted.

Starting
circuit
connections
loose
or corroded.
Neutral safety switch or starter
relay inoperative.
Battery charge low.

No
voltage to starter
solenoid.

Solenoid
or starting motor inoperative.
Remove
the starter motor. Check for broken flywheel
teeth
or

a
broken starting motor
spring.

Rotate the engine to check for rotational resistance.

Clean
and tighten
connections.

Check
starter relay for
supply
voltage and proper operation of neutral safety. Replace defective parts.

Check
battery voltage. Replace battery if a charge cannot be
held.

Check
voltage to
solenoid.
If
necessary,
replace the
solenoid.

Replace
starter motor.

ENGINE
CRANKS,

BUT
WILL
NOT

START—NO
SMOKE
FROM
EXHAUST
No
fuel
in supply tank.
Electrical
fuel
shutdown not

open.

Air
intake or exhaust
plugged.

Fuel
filter
plugged.

Injection pump not getting
fuel

or
fuel
is aerated.

Worn
or inoperative injection
pump.

Internal pump timing incorrect.

Camshaft
out of time.
Fill
fuel
supply.

Check
for
loose
wires and verify that the valve is functioning.
Check
to be sure manual shutoff lever is in the run position.

Remove
the obstruction.

Drain
fuel/water separator and replace
fuel
filter.

Check
fuel
flow/bleed
fuel
system.

Visually
check
fuel
delivery with an externally connected injector to one of the pump outlets. Replace the pump if
fuel

is
not being delivered.
Time the pump
(refer
to Group 14, Fuel
System).

Check/correct
gear train timing alignment.

ENGINE
HARD
TO

START,
OR
WILL
NOT
START—SMOKE

FROM
EXHAUST
Incorrect starting procedure.

Cranking
speed too
slow.

Cold
starting
aids
not working

or
are needed.
Intake heater
system
not

working.

Insufficient intake air.

Air
in the
fuel
system
or the

fuel
supply is inadequate. The manual
fuel
shutoff control must be in the run position.
(a) Verify that the
transmission
is not
engaged.

(b) Check the battery, starting motor and look for
loose
or

corroded
wiring
connections.

(c) Rotate the engine with a barring tool
(Snap-On
Tool
SP371,
MTE
No. 3377462, or equivalent) to check for internal rotational resistance.
Verify the
aids
are operating. Repair/replace inoperative
parts.

Verify
system
is working. Repair/replace inoperative parts.

Inspect
or replace
filter
and check for
obstructions
to the air

supply
tube.

Check
the flow through the
filter
and bleed the
system.
Locate

and
eliminate the air source. J9109-232

•

FUEL SYSTEM
14-79
OVERDRIVE/OVERRIDE SWITCH-PCM
INPUT

The overdrive/override switch is not used with
manual transmissions. On vehicles equipped with overdrive, the PCM reg­
ulates the 3-4 overdrive upshift and downshift
through the overdrive solenoid. An override switch is located on the instrument panel. The overdrive/override switch is a momentary con­
tact switch. The switch contacts are normally open. When the switch is activated, the PCM will receive a ground signal. The transmission will not enter over­
drive when the operator presses the override switch.
The transmission downshifts if the operator presses
the override switch while in overdrive.
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR The coolant temperature sensor is not used with
manual transmissions.
The coolant temperature sensor (Fig. 6) monitors
engine coolant temperature. This input is used to in­
hibit transmission upshift into overdrive when the
engine coolant temperature is below 16 degrees C (60
degrees F).

Fig.
6 Coolant
Temperature
Sensor

TRANSMISSION THERMO-SWITCH The transmission thermo-switch is not used with
manual transmissions.
The transmission thermo-switch opens when the
transmission fluid temperature is above 134°C (273°F). When the thermo-switch opens, the trans­
mission will not shift into overdrive. The transmis­ sion downshifts if it is in overdrive when the thermo-
switch opens. Once the thermo-switch opens, it will
not close until transmission fluid temperature drops
to 116°C (240°F). The switch is located in the trans­ mission-to-radiator cooling line (Fig. 7).

PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH-PCM
INPUT
The park/neutral switch (Fig. 8) is located on the
automatic transmission housing. It provides an input
THERMO SWITCH
J9214-62

Fig.
7
Transmission
Thermo-Switch—Typical to the PCM. The input indicates if the automatic
transmission is in park, neutral or a drive gear se­ lection.
If transmission is in overdrive and operator shifts
vehicle into neutral, the overdrive solenoid will be de-energized. Normal PCM operation will resume
when the transmission is shifted back into drive po­ sition.
The PCM uses the park/neutral switch input when
determining speed control strategy. The PCM will
disable the speed control if the operator shifts the
transmission into neutral. The speed control will
have to be reset once the vehicle is placed back into drive.
The park/neutral switch is sometimes referred to as
the neutral safety switch. Refer to Group 21 Trans­ missions for adjustment, replacement and test infor­
mation.

Fig.
8 Park/Neutral Switch—Typical

POWER
GROUND-PCM
INPUT
Provides a common ground for power devices (sole­
noid and relay).

•

NV4500 MANUAL
TRANSMISSION
21 - 3

PTO

COVER

J9221-14

Fig. 2 NV4500 identification Tag Location
DRAIN

PLUG
J9221-80

Fig. 3 NV4500 Drain And Fill Plug Locations

o
0 ©
0 0©
J9221-13

Fig. 4 NV4500 Shitt Pattern
NOISY OPERATION Transmission noise is most often a result of worn
or damaged components. Chipped, broken gear or
synchronizer teeth and brinnelled, spalled bearings
all cause noise.
Abnormal wear and damage to internal compo­
nents is frequently the end result of insufficient lu­
bricant, non-recommended lubricants, or improper operation.
SLIPS
OUT OF
GEAR

Transmission disengagement may be caused by
misaligned or damaged shift components, or worn
teeth on the mainshaft gears or synchro components. Incorrect assembly will also contribute to gear disen­gagement.

LOW LUBRICANT LEWEL
Insufficient transmission lubricant is usually the
result of leaks, or inaccurate fluid level check or re­
fill method.
Leaks will be evident by the presence of gear oil
around the leak point. If leakage is not evident, the
condition is probably the result of an underfill condi­
tion.
If air powered lubrication equipment is used to fill
a transmission, be sure the equipment is properly
calibrated. Equipment out of calibration can lead to
an underfill condition.

CLUTCH
PROBLEMS
Worn, damaged, or misaligned clutch components
can cause difficult shifting, gear clash and noise.
A damaged pilot bearing will cause noise. If bear­
ing damage is severe, drive gear misalignment and
hard shifting can also occur.
A worn or damaged clutch disc, pressure plate, or
release bearing can cause hard shifting and gear clash.
Damaged or worn clutch hydraulic components, or
leaks in the fluid lines or cylinders will cause hard shifting and gear clash. Failure of one of the clutch
hydraulic cylinders can result in incomplete clutch release or engagement.
Verify that clutch components are all in good con­
dition before removing the transmission for repair.

TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL—2-WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable. (2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove screws attaching shift boot to floorpan.
Then slide boot upward on lever. (4) Loosen nut that secures shift lever on transmis­
sion stub lever. Then remove shift lever from stub le­
ver. (5) Raise and support vehicle.
(6) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for align­
ment reference. Use paint, scriber, or chalk to mark

yokes.
(7) Remove U-joint clamp strap screws and remove
clamps. (8) Remove propeller shaft.
(9) Disconnect and remove exhaust system Y-pipe.
(10) Disconnect wires at speed sensor and backup
light switch. (11) Support engine with adjustable safety stand
and wood block.

21
- 4
NV4500 MANUAL TRANSMISSION

(12) If transmission is to be disassembled for re­
pair, remove drain plug and drain lubricant from transmission.
(13) move bolts/nuts attaching transmission to rear
mount.
(14) Support transmission with a transmission
jack. Secure transmission to jack with safety chains.
(15) Remove rear crossmember,
(16) Remove bolts attaching clutch slave cylinder
to clutch housing. Then move cylinder aside for
working clearance.
(17) Remove transmission harness wires from clips
on transmission shift cover. (18) Remove bolts attaching transmission to clutch
housing. (19) Slide transmission and jack rearward until
drive gear clears clutch housing. (20) Lower transmission jack and remove trans­
mission from under vehicle. (21) If transmission will be overhauled, clean
transmission exterior with solvent or with steam gun.

TRANSMISSION
INSTALLATION—2-WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to contact surfaces of following com­
ponents: • drive gear splines and pilot bearing hub
• release bearing slide surface of front retainer
• pilot bearing • release bearing bore
• release fork
• release fork ball stud
• propeller shaft slip yoke (2) Fill transmission with recommended lubricant.
Correct fill level is bottom edge of fill plug hole. (3) Mount transmission on jack and position trans­
mission under vehicle. (4) Raise transmission until drive gear is centered
in release bearing and clutch disc hub. (5) Move transmission forward and start drive gear
in release bearing, clutch disc and pilot bushing. (6) Work transmission forward until seated against
clutch housing. Do not allow transmission to remain
unsupported after drive gear has entered clutch disc. (7) Install and tighten transmission-to-clutch hous­
ing bolts to 108 N*m (80 ft. lbs.) torque. (8) Install clutch slave cylinder. (9) Connect speed sensor and backup light switch

wires.
(10) Position transmission harness wires in clips
on shift cover. (11) Install transmission mount on transmission or
rear crossmember. (12) Install rear crossmember.
(13) Remove transmission jack and engine support
fixture. (14) Align and connect propeller shaft. (15) Fill transmission with required lubricant, if
necessary. (16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Install shift lever on transmission stub lever.
(18) Install shift boot and bezel. (19) Connect battery negative cable.

TRANSMISSION REMOVAL—4-WHEEL DRIVE
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove shift lever boot and bezel. (4) Loosen nut attaching shift lever to transmis­
sion stub lever and remove shift lever from stub le­
ver. (5) Raise- vehicle.
(6) Remove skid plate if equipped.
(7) If transmission will be disassembled for repair,
remove drain plug and drain lubricant from trans­
mission. (8) Mark propeller shafts and yokes for assembly
reference. (9) Disconnect propeller shafts and remove propel­
ler shafts. (10) Disconnect and remove exhaust system
Y-pipe. Then disconnect and lower remaining ex­
haust pipes for clearance as necessary. (11) Support engine with adjustable safety stand.
(12) Disconnect speed sensor wires and disconnect
speedometer cable, if equipped. (13) Disconnect backup light switch wires.
(14) Disconnect transfer case shift linkage at
transfer case range lever. (15) Remove bolts/nuts attaching transmission to
rear support. (16) Remove crossmember bolts/nuts and remove
crossmember. (17) Support transfer case with transmission jack.
Secure transfer case to jack with safety chains. (18) Remove transfer case attaching nuts.
(19) Move transfer case rearward until input gear
clears transmission mainshaft. (20) Lower transfer case assembly and move it
from under vehicle. (21) If transmission is being removed for repair,
remove drain plug and drain lubricant from trans­ mission.
(22) Support transmission with transmission jack.
Secure transmission to jack with safety chains.
(23) Remove transmission harness from retaining
clips on transmission shift cover. (24) Remove bolts/nuts attaching transmission
mount to rear crossmember.
(25) Remove rear crossmember.
(26) Remove clutch slave cylinder splash shield, if
equipped.
(27) Loosen clutch slave cylinder attaching nuts
until cylinder piston rod is clear of release lever.
This reduces pressure on lever and release bearing

21 - 52 G360
MANUAL
TRANSMISSION

• (12) Disconnect wires at vehicle speed sensor and
backup light switch.
(13) Disconnect transfer case shift lever from lever
on transfer case.
(14) Temporarily support transmission with adjust­
able jack stand. Then support transfer case with
transmission jack.
(15) Remove nuts attaching transfer case to trans­
mission adapter and move transfer case away from
transmission rear retainer.
(16) Lower transfer case and move it from under
vehicle. Remove transfer case from transmission jack and place transfer case on workbench.
(17) Support transmission with transmission jack.
Secure transmission to jack with safety chains. Then
remove jack stand previously used to support trans­
mission.
(18) Spread clamps that secure switch wires to
transmission top cover and remove wires from clamps. Move wires aside to protect them and pro­
vide working clearance.
(19) Remove bolts attaching transmission rear
mount to crossmember.
(20) On some models, it is necessary to remove
screws attaching fuel line clamps to driver side
frame rail. Three clamps must be removed to so fuel lines can be moved for access to crossmember bolts at
this side of frame rail.
(21) Remove left and right crossmember-to-frame
braces and remove crossmember.
(22) Remove clutch slave cylinder shield.
(23) Loosen clutch slave cylinder attaching nuts
until cylinder piston rod is clear of release lever (Fig.

20).
This reduces pressure on lever and release bear­
ing making transmission removal/installation easier. Cylinder does not have to be removed completely.
(24) Remove bolts attaching transmission to clutch
housing and remove transmission. Rock transmission slightly to help free input shaft from clutch disc and
release bearing.
(25) Support engine with wood block and another
adjustable jack stand.

TRANSMISSION
INSTALLATION—4-WHEEL
DRIVE
(1) Mount transmission on jack stand. Secure
transmission to jack with safety chains.
(2) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease to contact surfaces of input shaft (Fig. 20) and following components:

CAUTION:
Do not use
excessive
amounts
of
grease.

This
practice
could
result in contamination of the

clutch
disc.

• input shaft splines and pilot bearing hub
• release bearing slide surface of front retainer
• pilot bushing
• release bearing bore
• release fork
• release fork ball stud • propeller shaft slip yoke
(3) Align transmission and clutch housing. Move
transmission forward and start input shaft into re­ lease bearing and hub of clutch disc. (4) Rotate output shaft with socket or yoke to align
input shaft and clutch disc splines. If input shaft will
not rotate enough in neutral to align splines, it will
be necessary to shift transmission into third or fourth gear with screwdriver. (5) Seat transmission against clutch housing and
align bolt holes in transmission and housing. (6) Install and tighten transmission-to-clutch hous­
ing bolts to 68 N-m (50 ft. lbs.). (7) Install rear crossmember and mount. Start all
crossmember bolts/nuts then tighten them to 68 N*m (50 ft. lbs.) torque. (8) Remove transmission jack.
(9) Install screws that attach fuel line clamps to
driver side frame rail. (10) Align clutch slave cylinder in housing and
tighten cylinder attaching nuts. (11) Install clutch slave cylinder shield.
(12) Secure backup light and vehicle speed sensor
wires in clips at top of transmission. Route wires across top of transmission to sensor and switch and
connect wires.
(13) Install gasket and transfer case on transmis­
sion rear retainer. Tighten transfer case attaching
nuts to 47 N-m (35 ft. lbs.) torque. (14) Check transmission and transfer case lubri­
cant levels. Add lubricant if necessary and install fill

plugs.

(15) Connect transfer case shift lever to lever on
transfer case.
(16) Align and install propeller shafts. Tighten
U-joint clamp bolts to 19 N-m (14 ft. lbs.). (17) Install skid plate and crossmember. Tighten
skid plate and crossmember bolts/nuts to 41 N—m
(30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(18) Lower vehicle.
(19) Shift transmission into neutral if necessary.
(20) Lubricate shift lever ball and collar with Mo­
par all purpose grease. (21) Align notches in shift lever ball and collar
and insert shift lever in shift tower. (22) Press shift lever and collar downward and in­
stall shift lever snap ring. (23) Install boot over shift lever and onto shift
tower and tighten boot clamp securely. (24) Install lower boot and plate assembly over
shift lever and onto floorpan. Position plate so large
notch is forward then install lower boot attaching screws. (25) Thread or bolt shift lever extension to shift le­
ver. Slide upper boot down extension. Position boot on plate and install boot attaching screws. (26) Install shift knob on extension (if removed).
(27) Connect battery negative cable.

21 - 72 G36Q
TRANSMISSION OVERHAUL

missions were not originally equipped with a cover
gasket, a gasket should be installed on these trans­
missions).
(7)
Verify that synchronizer sleeves are in neutral
position. Shift cover cannot be installed otherwise.

(8)
Install shift cover. Align shift forks with syn­
chro sleeves and alignment dowels and seat cover on
case. (9) Apply Mopar or Loctite thread locker to shift
cover bolts. Then install and tighten bolts to 22-30
N-m
(16-22
ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Place transmission in level position and in­
stall drain plug. Tighten plug to 47 N-m (35 ft. lbs.) (11) Fill transmission to bottom edge of fill plug
hole with Mopar 5W-30 engine oil.
(12) Install and tighten fill plug to 47 N-m (35 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(13) Install backup light switch in shift cover if re­
moved. (14) Mount transmission on jack for installation in
vehicle.
(15) Secure transmission to jack with safety
chains.
(16) Apply thin coat of Mopar high temperature or
multi-purpose grease to pilot hub of input shaft.

!1
- 142
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
AND
INSTALLATION

• AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REMOWAL AND INSTALLATION

INDEX
page
Dverdrlve
Unit
Installation
150

Overdrive
Unit
Removal-42RH/46RH
........ 149

Pump
Oil
Seal
146

Starter
Ring Gear Replacement
144

Torque Converter
and
Drive
Plate
Service
..... 144

Transmission
and
Torque Converter
Installation—
2-Wheel Drive
146
page
Transmission
and
Torque Converter
Installation—
4-Wheel Drive
. . .' 148

Transmission
and
Torque Converter Removal— 2-Wheel Drive
142

Transmission
and
Torque Converter Removal
—
4-Wheel Drive
143

TRANSMISSION
AND
TORQUE CONVERTER REMOVAL—2-WHEEL DRIVE The
transmission and torque converter should
be removed as an assembly to avoid component damage. The converter drive plate, pump bush­
ing, or oil seal can be damaged if the converter
is left attached to the driveplate during removal. Be sure to remove the transmission and con­
verter as an assembly.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Disconnect or remove exhaust components as
needed for service access.
(3) Remove engine-to-transmission struts, if
equipped. (4) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
(5) Remove starter motor and cooler line bracket.
(6) Remove torque converter bolt access cover.
(7) Remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and
reinstall pan. (8) Remove transmission fill tube bracket bolts and
remove tube and O-ring from transmission case. (9) Mark torque converter and drive plate for as­
sembly alignment (Fig. 1). Note that bolt holes in
crankshaft flange, drive plate and torque converter
all have one offset hole. (10) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
damper pulley bolt. (11) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for as­
sembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove pro­
peller shaft (Fig. 2). (12) Disconnect wires from park/neutral position
switch and transmission solenoids. (13) Disconnect gearshift rod and torque shaft as­
sembly from brackets on transmission and frame

rail.
(14) Disconnect throttle valve rod (or cable) from
transmission throttle lever. (15) Disconnect vehicle speed sensor wires.
(16) Support engine with Fixture C-3487-A and
adapters, or a similar tool. (17) Support transmission with transmission jack.
Fig.
1 Marking Converter And
Driveplate
For

Alignment
Reference Secure transmission to jack with safety chains.
(18) Raise transmission slightly with jack to re­
lieve load on crossmember and insulator. (19) Remove bolts attaching transmission to insu­
lator and crossmember and remove crossmember and
brackets. (20) Remove bolts attaching converter housing to
engine block.
(21) Carefully work transmission and converter as­
sembly rearward until clear of engine block dowels and crankshaft. (22) Secure converter in housing with small
C-clamp attached to edge of housing. (23) Lower transmission and remove assembly
from under vehicle.
(24) Remove C-clamp and carefully slide converter
out of pump. Store converter on bench during service
operations. Cover converter hub with tape, card­
board, or paper to prevent dirt entry.

•

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
AND
INSTALLATION
21 - 143

AXLE

YOKE PROPELLER

SHAFT
YOKE

U-JOINT
RETAINER RETAINER
BOLT

(170
IN-LBS)
TRANSMISSION
OUTPUT

SHAFT
J9021-146

Fig.
2 Propeller Shaft Attachment
TRANSMISSION
AND TORQUE CONVERTER

REMOVAL—4-WHEEL
DRIVE
The transmission and torque converter should
be removed as an assembly to avoid component damage. The converter drive plate, pump bush­
ing, or oil seal can be damaged if the converter
is left attached to the driveplate during removal.
Be sure to remove the transmission and con­
verter as an assembly. (1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Disconnect or remove exhaust components as
needed for service access. (3) Remove engine-to-transmission struts, if
equipped. (4) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission. (5) Remove starter motor and cooler line bracket.
(6) Remove torque converter access cover.
(7) Remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and
reinstall pan. (8) Remove transmission fill tube bracket bolts and
remove tube and O-ring from transmission case. (9) Mark torque converter and drive plate for as­
sembly alignment. Note that bolt holes in crankshaft
flange, drive plate and torque converter all have one
offset hole. (10) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft using breaker bar and
socket installed on damper pulley bolt. (11) Mark front/rear propeller shaft and axle yokes
for assembly alignment. (12) Disconnect and remove both propeller shafts
(Fig. 2). (13) Disconnect wires from park/neutral position switch and transmission solenoids.

(14)
Disconnect transmission gearshift rods and
torque shaft assembly from brackets on transmission and frame rail.
(15) Disconnect throttle valve cable from transmis­
sion throttle lever.
(16) Remove transfer case skid plate and skid plate
crossmember (Fig. 3). (17) Disconnect wires from vehicle speed sensor.
(18) Disconnect necessary vacuum harness hoses.
SKID

PLATE

CROSSMEMBER

TRANSFER
CASE
SKID

PLATE
J9121-525

Fig.
3
Skid
Plate
Mounting
(19) Disconnect transfer case shift lever from
range lever.
(20) Support transfer case with transmission jack.
Secure transfer case to jack with safety chains.
(21) Remove nuts attaching transfer case to trans­
mission adapter.
(22) Pull transfer case rearward until clear of
transmission. Lower jack and move transfer case
from under vehicle. Then remove transfer case from
jack and leave on bench until ready for installation.
(23) Support transmission with transmission jack.
Secure transmission to jack with safety chains.
(24) Remove bolts/nuts attaching transmission in­
sulator plate to rear crossmember (Figs. 4 and 5).
(25) Remove bolts/nuts attaching crossmember and
brackets to frame rails and remove crossmember.
(26) Support engine with Fixture C-3487-A and
adapters, or a jack stand and wood blocks.
(27) Remove bolts attaching converter housing to
engine. (28) Carefully work transmission-converter assem­
bly rearward until clear of crankshaft and engine
block dowels.