wheel bolts FIAT 127 1978 2.G Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FIAT, Model Year: 1978, Model line: 127, Model: FIAT 127 1978 2.GPages: 34, PDF Size: 6.87 MB
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Lamps
Headlamps (C, L and CL)
Headlamps (Sport)
Brake and rear light
Turn indicators
Reversing lights
Parking lights
Number plate
Courtesy light
Boot light
Turn repeaters
Cigar lighter light
Instrument panel
Ignition warning
Turn indicator warning
Headlamp warning
Coolant temperature warning (L models)
Oil pressure warning
Fuel warning
Hazard warning
Sidelamp (out) warning (Sport only)
Brake warning (Sport only)
Heated rear window warning (Sport only)
40/45 watts
55/60 watts (Halogen)
5/21 watts
21 watts
21 watts
5 watts
5 watts
5 watts
5 watts
4 watts
4 watts
3 watts
3 watts
1.2 watts
1.2 watts
1.2 watts
1.2 watts
1.2 watts
1.2 watts
3 watts
1.2 watts
1.2 watts
Fuses
For fuse details (127 Special, L, C, CL and Sport) see Sections 23 or 24
Steering and suspension (Sport only)
Steering angles
Inner wheel 34° 50’
Outer wheel 32° 10’
Front wheel alignment (toe setting)
Laden 0.079 in (2.0 mm) toe-in to 0.079 in (2.0 mm) toe-o ut
Unladen 0.138 in (3.5 mm) to 0.217 in (5.5 mm) toe-in
Roadwheels
Size 4½ B x 13
Tyres 135 SR-13 or 155/70 SR-13
All 1049 cc models Ibf ft kgf m
Main bearing cap bolts 59 8.2
Engine mounting securing bolts 43 6
Cylinder head to block bolts and nuts:
1 st stage 30 4.1
2nd stage 45 6.2
Final stage 61 8.5
Manifold to head nuts 20 2.8
Connecting rod big-end nuts 38 5.2
Flywheel to crankshaft bolts 61 8.5
Driven gear (Plastic) to camshaft retaining bolt 87 12
Driven gear (steel) to camshaft retaining bolt 87 1 2
Camshaft cap nuts 14 2
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Ignition distributor clamp nut 11 1.5
Oil pump to crankcase bolts 13 1.8
Cylinder head outlet pipe bolt 16 2.2
Water pump/alternator drive pulley nut 101 14
Alternator bracket to crankcase bolt 20 2.8
Alternator to lower bracket bolt 36 5
Cylinder head upper bracket bolt 20 2.8
Alternator to upper bracket nut 36 5
Upper bracket securing bolt 13 1.8
Oil pressure switch 24 3.3
Coolant temperature switch 36 5
Spark plug 27 3.8
Sport models only
Engine
Flexible mounting to body (engine side) 65 9.0
Flexible mounting support (engine side to body)
18 2.5
Flexible mounting upper support to gearbox 18 2.5
Engine crossmember to body 18 2.5
Flexible mounting support nut (gearbox side) 18 2.5
Flexible mounting support bolt to body
(gearbox LH side) 65 9.0
Steering and suspension
Steering wheel retaining nut 22 3.0
Front wheel bearing ring nut 44 6.0
Front wheel hub nut 160 22.0
Roadwheel bolts 64 8.8
Front suspension track control arm to body 20 2.7
Front suspension balljoint to hub carrier 40 5.5
Rear wheel hub nut 160 22
Transmission
Starter motor bolt to bellhousing lower support 18 2.5
Gear selector shaft nut 18 2.5
Upper gear lever relay lever 22 3.0
Idler support securing nut 18 2.5
Differential case flange to gearbox housing 18 2.5
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3.11A Fit the bearing shell ti the main bearing cap s… 3.11B …and then fit caps to the crankcase after oil ing the
shells
3.11C Ensure that each cap is the right way round i n its
own location with the one with four marks at the fl ywheel
end of the crankcase 3.12 Tighten main bearing cap bolts with a torque w rench
3.15 Piston and connecting rod assembly 3.17 One of the oil jet holes in the big-end – the other is on
the other side of the rod
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3.32 Fitting the crankshaft seal and carrier at fly wheel
and… 3.33 …and at the timing cover end
3.34 The timing indicator bracket is located behind the two
top bolts of the seal carrier 3.36 Fit the sump to the crankcase
on fine clearances and these should be checked
during assembly.
22 Fit the outer rotor to the pump body and then
fit the inner rotor (photos).
23 Lay an accurate straight edge across the
faces of the rotors and pump body and measure
the clearance with feeler gauges (photo).
24 Insert a feeler gauge between the outer rotor
and the pump body to measure the clearance
(photo).
25 Similarly insert a feeler gauge between the
inner rotor lobe tip and the outer rotor to
measure the clearance between the two (photo).
26 Compare the clearances with the tolerances
quoted in the Specifications to this Chapter. Any
excessive clearance could result in low oil
pressure, and as the inner and outer rotors are
matched pairs the only solution is a new or
reconditioned pump assembly. 27 Fit the oil pressure relief valve plunger to th
e
pump body followed in turn by the spring,
retainer plate and circlip (photos).
28 Lubricate the rotors with clean engine oil and
refit the pump lower half body and strainer
(photo).
29 With a new gasket, fit the assembled oil
pump to the crankcase block and secure with
the two long bolts (photo). Tighten to the
specified torque load.
30 Fit the oil tube to the crankcase securing it by
its bracket to the centre main bearing cap with
its retaining bolt. Tighten to the specified torque
load (photo).
Craknshaft oil seals and carriers-refitting
31 Clean the flywheel mounting spigot on the
end of the crankshaft and lubricate the
crankshaft seal with clean engine oil. Fit a new
gasket.
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32 Carefully ease the lip of the seal onto the
spigot and secure the carrier with the bolts and
washers (photo).
33 Similarly clean the crankshaft at the timing
belt end and fit the seal and carrier. Retain by
the two bottom bolts (photo). 34 Put the timing
indicator bracket over the two top bolt holes in
the seal carrier and fit the two top bolts (photo).
Sump - refitting
35 Make sure that there are no remnants of the
old gasket on the sump flange and fit a new
gasket using a little grease to hold it in position .
Check that it is bedded down evenly all round
the flange.
36 Fit the sump to the crankcase. Put the load
spreading washers on each bolt and screw into
the crankcase (photo).
37 Tighten the bolts evenly to avoid warping the
flange.
Auxiliary shaft and seal - refitting
38 Clean the auxiliary shaft bearings and
lubricate with clean engine oil.
39 Insert the shaft into the crankcase bushes
and rotate the shaft to spread the oil (photo).
40 Lubricate the auxiliary shaft seal in its carrie r
and carefully ease the seal over the shaft spigot
(photo).
41 Fit the seal carrier retaining bolts and
washers and tighten.
Belt pulleys and tensioner - refitting
42 Fit the toothed pulley to the auxiliary shaft.
The recess in the pulley fits on the auxiliary shaf t
with the dowel on the shaft in the hole in the
pulley (photo). Fit the retaining bolt and washer
and partially tighten, as it will be necessary to
wait until the drivebelt has been fitted before
finally tightening this bolt. Alternatively, it is
possible to hold the auxiliary shaft carefully in a
vice, fit the seal and carrier to the shaft, follow ed
by the toothed pulley and its retaining bolt and
washer, and then tighten the bolt fully before
fitting the complete assembly to the block.
43 The belt tensioner bracket can now be fitted.
Clean off all traces of old gasket from the
bracket and block and use a new gasket on
assembly. Fit the retaining bolts and washers
and tighten (photo).
44 Insert the spring-loaded plunger assembly
into the tensioner bracket (photo).
45 The tensioning wheel in its carrier can now
be fitted. Put the top bolt and washer in first and
then bear down to compress the spring and fit the bottom bolt through the kidney-shaped slot.
Note that this latter bolt has an additional, large
washer against the wheel carrier. Temporarily
tighten the two bolts they will have to be
retightened after the belt has been fitted (photo).
46 If the key had previously been removed from
the pulley end of the crankshaft, clean the key
slot and refit the key. Then slide on the bevelled
washer, making sure that the bevel is on the
side away from the crankcase (photo).
47 Refit the crankshaft toothed pulley (photo).
Then the V-belt pulley can be refitted together
with its retaining nut and washer. Final
tightening of this nut can wait until the flywheel
has been fitted, when a 'gag' can be fitted to the
flywheel to hold the crankshaft whilst tightening
the nut - see Chapter 1, photo 23.2A.
Cylinder head and valve gear-reassembly
48 It is assumed that the valves will have
already been examined and renovated as
described in Chapter 1, Section 31. Follow the
procedure given in Chapter 1, Section 51 to
reassemble the valves, but note that new oil
seals should be fitted to this engine when the
valves have been inserted in the guides and
before the springs are fitted (photos).
49 Each tappet bucket contains a shim in the
head which is used to control the valve
clearance. Before assembling the buckets to
their valves, prise out each shim and take a note
of the thickness. This is etched on the lower face
of the shim and indicates the thickness in
millimetres to two decimal places. If the number
has worn off, use a micrometer to check the
shim thickness. Make a table showing each
valve by number and the thickness of shim on
assembly. Reassemble each shim to its bucket
and after lubricating with clean engine oil fit the
buckets to their respective valves (photos).
50 Lubricate the two camshaft bearings in the
cylinder head and carefully thread the camshaft
through the driving end hole and lower it onto its
bearings. The cams will rest on the tappet
buckets and the camshaft should now be turned
so that the two cams over No. 1 cylinder (driving
end) are pointing upwards (compression/firing
stroke). This is to reduce the bending load on
the camshaft as the two bearing halves are
being tightened down (photo).
51 Lubricate the camshaft bearing halves and fit
them to their respective studs in the head. Put
the steel bridge plates in position and fit the
washers and nuts (photo).
52 Tighten the four nuts a little at a time
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3.78 Setting the belt tensioner
3.84 Checking a valve clearance
3.87 Made-up tool for depressing tappet buckets
when initially inserted; then reinsert it into the
engine. Ideally the contact points should be just
breaking with the rotor opposite the correct
numbered terminal in the cap. If this is not the
case, repeat on a trial and error basis until this
is
achieved (photo).
69 Fit the clamp washer and nut and lightly
tighten temporarily.
70 With a lamp and battery across the contact
breaker points and the clamp nut just loosened,
move the distributor body round its axis until the
light just goes out. Tighten the clamp nut to the
specified torque load (photo).
Toothed drivebelt - removal, refitting and
adjusting
Note: If adjustment is necessary on an old belt
or if the belt is removed for any reason, always
change the belt for a new one, never adjust
using the old belt.
71 The toothed drivebelt should be renewed at
36 000 miles (60 000 km). This can be done with
the engine in the car. 72 Using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley nut turn the engine over until
the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is
aligned with the TDC pointer (long one).
73 Remove the drivebelt cover and the
alternator/water pump drivebelt.
74 Check that the camshaft pulley timing hole is
aligned with the cast ridge on the seal housing;
refer to paragraph 59 of this Section. If it isn't,
turn the engine over one revolution to get it lined
up.
75 Before removing the drivebelt it must be
remembered that neither the camshaft nor the
crankshaft must be moved with the belt off, If
this precaution is not observed the pistons and
valves could impact causing serious damage.
76 Release the tension on the drivebelt by
slackening the bolt in the kidney-shaped slot on
the tensioner bracket, loosening the other
(pivot) bolt, pushing the tensioner wheel against
the spring unit and tightening both bolts. Slide
the drivebelt off the pulleys.
77 Fit the new belt. Start at the crankshaft drive
pulley and, taking care not to kink or strain the
belt, ease it into place over the auxiliary shaft
pulley and the camshaft pulley. It might be
necessary to slightly turn the camshaft to get the
belt to mesh. This should always be done in the
direction of least movement to achieve a mesh,
Fit the belt on the tensioner pulley last. If this is
difficult do not lever or force the belt on but
recheck it and try again (photo).
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78 Slacken the tensioner bolts to tension the belt
and retighten the bolts (photo).
79 Turn the engine over for two complete
revolutions to even out belt tension. Then again
slacken the tensioner bolts to let the tensioner
take up any slack and
retighten the bolts. Never
turn the engine backwards or rock the camshaft
when tensioning the belt, as slack could develop
in the belt and it might jump a tooth.
80 Refit and tension the alternator/water pump
V-belt. Refit the drivebelt cover.
Valve clearances - adjustment
81 Checking the valve clearances should be
done at the 6000 miles servicing, or whenever
the cylinder head has been removed and
refitted for any reason. It is important that the
clearances are set correctly, otherwise the
timing will be wrong and the engine
performance will be poor. If there is no
clearance at all, the valves and seats will soon
get burnt. Set the clearances with the engine
cold.
82 Remove the camshaft cover. The engine can
be turned over by either using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley nut, or by jacking up a front
wheel, engaging top gear and using the wheel
to turn the engine.
83 Each tappet must be checked when its
operating cam is pointing upwards, 1800 away
from the tappet. Check the clearances in the
firing order, No. 1 cylinder first and then 3, 4
and 2. Do the exhaust of one cylinder and the
inlet of the one after, at the same time to
minimise the amount of engine turning. Counting
from the timing belt end, exhaust valves are
1-4-5-8, inlet valves 2-3-6-7.
84 Insert the feeler gauge for the appropriate
valve. See the Specifications for correct
settings. The feeler should slide in readily
between cam and shim, but with slight frictional
drag. Try one a size thicker and one a size
thinner. The thick one should not go in and the
thinner one should be too loose (photo).
85 If the clearance is wrong, measure the
clearance and write it down with the number of
the valve. When all the clearances have been
checked, it will be necessary to remove those
shims which are fitted where the clearances are
wrong, and renew them with different thickness
shims. If a clearance is too big, use a thicker
shim. If a clearance is too small use a thinner
shim. Calculate by simple subtraction. 86 To change a shim, turn the engine until the
relevant cam is pointing upwards, then turn the
tappet in its housing so that the slot in the rim is
accessible.
87 The manufacturer provides special tools for
depressing tappets (Nos. A60480 and A60443).
These make the job easier if they can be
borrowed, but it is possible to do the job without
them. The best way is to make up a tool from a
piece of steel plate shaped as shown in the
photograph. Alternatively use a screwdriver to
lever the tappet down and another on
e, on edge,
to hold the tappet down by positioning it
between the camshaft and the rim of the tappet;
then remove the lever. This is quite tricky and
needs some care to avoid any damage. If in any
doubt about doing this job it should be left to a
FIAT agent. As well as having the right tools he
will also have a stock of shims from which to
choose those required to correct wrong
clearances. It is expensive buying shims that are
not required (photo).
88 With the tappet held down, prise the shim out
with a thin screwdriver. The FIAT way is to lift
the shim using compressed air, which is
effective if an air line is available. The shims are
held in quite strongly by the oil film and they
must be lifted up square or they will jam.
Remove the shim with long-nosed pliers
(photos).
89 When new, shims have their thickness
marked in millimetres on their undersides. This
marking may wear off and then it will be
necessary to measure their thickness with a
micrometer. From the thickness of the shim and
the error in the clearance, calculate the size of
shim required to produce the correct clearance.
90 Insert the new shim, numbered side down
towards the tappet. Remove the tools used for
depressing the tappet and repeat the operation
until all clearances are correct.
91 Using clean engine oil lubricate all moving
and sliding parts in the camshaft/tappet
assembly. Fit a new gasket and refit the
camshaft cover together with the nine bolts and
washers. Tighten the bolts progressively (photo).
Engine - final assembly
92 Completing assembly of the 1049 cc engine
follows broadly the procedure for that of the
smaller engine which is dealt with in Chapter 1,
Section 56.
93 The manifold gasket is supplied in two parts
for the 1049 cc engine (photo). These serve