Engine number FIAT 127 1979 2.G Workshop Manual

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Supplement

Contents

Introduction ... ... ... ..

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2. Specifications

Capacities (1049 cc models )
En

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2. Specifications

Capacities (1049 cc models )
Engine oil (including filter change)
L, C and CL ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... … 5.5 pints (3.1 litres)
Sport ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 7.7 pi nts (4.4 litres)

Coolant ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... … 9.7 pints (5.5 litres)

Fuel ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... … 6.7 gallons (30 .5 litres) including 6.2 pints
(3.5 litres) reserve

Transmission oil ... … ... ... ... ... ... ... . 4.2 pints (2.4 l itres)

1049 cc OHC engine
General
Type number ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... … 127 A 000 (C, L and CL);
127 A1.000 (Sport)
Bore ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... … 2.992 in (76 mm)
Stroke ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 2.276 in (57.8 mm)
Capacity ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... … 64 cu in (1049 cc)
Compression ratio ... ... ... ... ... … 9,3 : 1 (C, L and CL);
9,8 : 1 (Sport)
Maximum horsepower (DIN) ... ... ... ... 50 HP a t 5600 rpm (C, L and CL);
70 HP at 5600 rpm (Sport)

Valve mechanism C, L and CL Sport
Inlet :
Opens ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 2° B TDC 6° BTDC
Closes ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 42° ABDC 46°ABDC
Exhaust :
Opens ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 42° BBDC 47° BBDC
Closes ... ... ... ... ... ... ... … … 2° ATDC 7° ATDC
Valve clearances (cold) :
For checking valve timing:
Inlet ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.02 8 in (0.70 mm) 0.032 in (0.80 mm)
Exhaust ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.028 in (0.70 mm) 0.032 in (0.80 mm)
Adjustment for running (engine cold) :
Inlet ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.01 2 in (0.30 mm) 0.016 in (0.40 mm)
Exhaust ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.016 i n (0 40 mm) 0.020 in (0.50 mm)

Cylinder block and connecting rods inches mm
Cylinder bore diameter * 2.992 to 2.994 76.00 to 7 6.05
* Cylinder bores are graded and have a variation of 0.0004 inch (0.01 mm) between each grade
Main bearing housing bore diameter 2.044 to 2.045 51.921 to 51.934
Width of centre main bearing cap between

thrust washers 1.088 to 1.091 27.64 to 27.70
Connecting rod big-end diameter 1.85 to 1.8560 47. 130 to 47.142
Connecting rod small-end diameter 0.8638 to 0.8646 21.94 to 21.96
Big-end bearing shell thickness 0.0606 to 0.8646 1. 539 to 1.55

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Lamps
Headlamps (C, L and CL)
Headlamps (Sport)

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32 Carefully ease the lip of the seal onto the

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32 Carefully ease the lip of the seal onto the
spigot and secure the carrier with the bolts and
washers (photo).
33 Similarly clean the crankshaft at the timing
belt end and fit the seal and carrier. Retain by
the two bottom bolts (photo). 34 Put the timing
indicator bracket over the two top bolt holes in
the seal carrier and fit the two top bolts (photo).

Sump - refitting
35 Make sure that there are no remnants of the
old gasket on the sump flange and fit a new
gasket using a little grease to hold it in position .
Check that it is bedded down evenly all round
the flange.
36 Fit the sump to the crankcase. Put the load
spreading washers on each bolt and screw into
the crankcase (photo).
37 Tighten the bolts evenly to avoid warping the
flange.
Auxiliary shaft and seal - refitting
38 Clean the auxiliary shaft bearings and
lubricate with clean engine oil.
39 Insert the shaft into the crankcase bushes
and rotate the shaft to spread the oil (photo).
40 Lubricate the auxiliary shaft seal in its carrie r
and carefully ease the seal over the shaft spigot
(photo).
41 Fit the seal carrier retaining bolts and
washers and tighten.
Belt pulleys and tensioner - refitting
42 Fit the toothed pulley to the auxiliary shaft.
The recess in the pulley fits on the auxiliary shaf t
with the dowel on the shaft in the hole in the
pulley (photo). Fit the retaining bolt and washer
and partially tighten, as it will be necessary to
wait until the drivebelt has been fitted before
finally tightening this bolt. Alternatively, it is
possible to hold the auxiliary shaft carefully in a
vice, fit the seal and carrier to the shaft, follow ed
by the toothed pulley and its retaining bolt and
washer, and then tighten the bolt fully before
fitting the complete assembly to the block.
43 The belt tensioner bracket can now be fitted.
Clean off all traces of old gasket from the
bracket and block and use a new gasket on
assembly. Fit the retaining bolts and washers
and tighten (photo).
44 Insert the spring-loaded plunger assembly
into the tensioner bracket (photo).
45 The tensioning wheel in its carrier can now
be fitted. Put the top bolt and washer in first and
then bear down to compress the spring and fit the bottom bolt through the kidney-shaped slot.
Note that this latter bolt has an additional, large
washer against the wheel carrier. Temporarily
tighten the two bolts they will have to be
retightened after the belt has been fitted (photo).

46 If the key had previously been removed from
the pulley end of the crankshaft, clean the key
slot and refit the key. Then slide on the bevelled
washer, making sure that the bevel is on the
side away from the crankcase (photo).
47 Refit the crankshaft toothed pulley (photo).
Then the V-belt pulley can be refitted together
with its retaining nut and washer. Final
tightening of this nut can wait until the flywheel
has been fitted, when a 'gag' can be fitted to the
flywheel to hold the crankshaft whilst tightening
the nut - see Chapter 1, photo 23.2A.

Cylinder head and valve gear-reassembly

48 It is assumed that the valves will have
already been examined and renovated as
described in Chapter 1, Section 31. Follow the
procedure given in Chapter 1, Section 51 to
reassemble the valves, but note that new oil
seals should be fitted to this engine when the
valves have been inserted in the guides and
before the springs are fitted (photos).
49 Each tappet bucket contains a shim in the
head which is used to control the valve
clearance. Before assembling the buckets to
their valves, prise out each shim and take a note
of the thickness. This is etched on the lower face
of the shim and indicates the thickness in
millimetres to two decimal places. If the number
has worn off, use a micrometer to check the
shim thickness. Make a table showing each
valve by number and the thickness of shim on
assembly. Reassemble each shim to its bucket
and after lubricating with clean engine oil fit the
buckets to their respective valves (photos).
50 Lubricate the two camshaft bearings in the
cylinder head and carefully thread the camshaft
through the driving end hole and lower it onto its
bearings. The cams will rest on the tappet
buckets and the camshaft should now be turned
so that the two cams over No. 1 cylinder (driving
end) are pointing upwards (compression/firing
stroke). This is to reduce the bending load on
the camshaft as the two bearing halves are
being tightened down (photo).
51 Lubricate the camshaft bearing halves and fit
them to their respective studs in the head. Put
the steel bridge plates in position and fit the
washers and nuts (photo).
52 Tighten the four nuts a little at a time

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3.68 Fitting the distributor

3.70 Di

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3.68 Fitting the distributor

3.70 Distributor clamp bolt

extension length and the torque wrench length
and is calculated by using the formula:

where A is the specified torque loading (Ibf ft or
kgf m), B is the torque to be set, or read, when
using an extension (Ibf ft or kgf m), y is the
length of extension (ft or m), and z is the length
of torque wrench (ft or m).
Example: Specified torque is 60 Ibf ft, length of
extension is 6 in, and length of torque wrench is
2 ft, then B = (60 x 2) = (6/12 + 2) = 120 =2'/z =
48 Ibf ft; torque wrench setting or indication.
When measuring, use centres of bolts/nuts and
centre of torque wrench drive square. When
calculating, keep values constant, that is, don't
mix inches and feet for example (photos). 63 Fit
the drivebelt as described later in this Section.
When fitted, the auxiliary shaft pulley bolt and
the camshaft pulley bolt can be torque loaded to
the specified settings if these were not done on
assembly.
Distributor - refitting
64 The distributor is mounted nearly vertical on
the oil filter side of the engine and is driven by
skew gears from the auxiliary shaft. In turn the
distributor shaft also drives the oil pump through
a splined coupling (photo).
65 It is more convenient to set the contact
breaker gap before fitting the distributor to the
engine. Adjust to the specified clearance
(photo).
66 Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of
rotation until the line on the crankshaft pulley is
adjacent to the first of the three pointers on the
timing bracket. This is 100 BTDC, the second
pointer is 50 BTDC and the large, third pointer is
TDC. Note which cylinder, either 1 or 4, is on the
compression stroke. This is indicated by both of
the inlet and exhaust cams pointing upwards
causing their relative valves to be shut. 67
Rotate the distributor shaft until the rotor is
opposite the terminal in the distributor cap
serving the same cylinder number as the one
which was on compression stroke and with the
contact breaker points just breaking.
68 Lubricate the distributor skew gear with clean
engine oil and insert the distributor into the
engine block. Watch the rotor carefully to see
how much it turns as the skew gears mesh.
Then withdraw the distributor, reset the rotor and
then preset it the same amount that it turne d

3.77 Fitting the toothed drivebelt-crankshaft V-bel t pulley
removed for clarity

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3.78 Setting the belt tensioner

3.84 Chec

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3.78 Setting the belt tensioner

3.84 Checking a valve clearance

3.87 Made-up tool for depressing tappet buckets

when initially inserted; then reinsert it into the
engine. Ideally the contact points should be just
breaking with the rotor opposite the correct
numbered terminal in the cap. If this is not the
case, repeat on a trial and error basis until this
is
achieved (photo).
69 Fit the clamp washer and nut and lightly
tighten temporarily.
70 With a lamp and battery across the contact
breaker points and the clamp nut just loosened,
move the distributor body round its axis until the
light just goes out. Tighten the clamp nut to the
specified torque load (photo).
Toothed drivebelt - removal, refitting and
adjusting
Note: If adjustment is necessary on an old belt
or if the belt is removed for any reason, always
change the belt for a new one, never adjust
using the old belt.
71 The toothed drivebelt should be renewed at
36 000 miles (60 000 km). This can be done with
the engine in the car. 72 Using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley nut turn the engine over until
the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is
aligned with the TDC pointer (long one).
73 Remove the drivebelt cover and the
alternator/water pump drivebelt.
74 Check that the camshaft pulley timing hole is
aligned with the cast ridge on the seal housing;
refer to paragraph 59 of this Section. If it isn't,
turn the engine over one revolution to get it lined
up.
75 Before removing the drivebelt it must be
remembered that neither the camshaft nor the
crankshaft must be moved with the belt off, If
this precaution is not observed the pistons and
valves could impact causing serious damage.
76 Release the tension on the drivebelt by
slackening the bolt in the kidney-shaped slot on
the tensioner bracket, loosening the other
(pivot) bolt, pushing the tensioner wheel against
the spring unit and tightening both bolts. Slide
the drivebelt off the pulleys.
77 Fit the new belt. Start at the crankshaft drive
pulley and, taking care not to kink or strain the
belt, ease it into place over the auxiliary shaft
pulley and the camshaft pulley. It might be
necessary to slightly turn the camshaft to get the
belt to mesh. This should always be done in the
direction of least movement to achieve a mesh,
Fit the belt on the tensioner pulley last. If this is
difficult do not lever or force the belt on but
recheck it and try again (photo).

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78 Slacken the tensioner bolts to tension the belt

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78 Slacken the tensioner bolts to tension the belt
and retighten the bolts (photo).
79 Turn the engine over for two complete
revolutions to even out belt tension. Then again
slacken the tensioner bolts to let the tensioner
take up any slack and
retighten the bolts. Never
turn the engine backwards or rock the camshaft
when tensioning the belt, as slack could develop
in the belt and it might jump a tooth.
80 Refit and tension the alternator/water pump
V-belt. Refit the drivebelt cover.
Valve clearances - adjustment
81 Checking the valve clearances should be
done at the 6000 miles servicing, or whenever
the cylinder head has been removed and
refitted for any reason. It is important that the
clearances are set correctly, otherwise the
timing will be wrong and the engine
performance will be poor. If there is no
clearance at all, the valves and seats will soon
get burnt. Set the clearances with the engine
cold.
82 Remove the camshaft cover. The engine can
be turned over by either using a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley nut, or by jacking up a front
wheel, engaging top gear and using the wheel
to turn the engine.
83 Each tappet must be checked when its
operating cam is pointing upwards, 1800 away
from the tappet. Check the clearances in the
firing order, No. 1 cylinder first and then 3, 4
and 2. Do the exhaust of one cylinder and the
inlet of the one after, at the same time to
minimise the amount of engine turning. Counting
from the timing belt end, exhaust valves are
1-4-5-8, inlet valves 2-3-6-7.
84 Insert the feeler gauge for the appropriate
valve. See the Specifications for correct
settings. The feeler should slide in readily
between cam and shim, but with slight frictional
drag. Try one a size thicker and one a size
thinner. The thick one should not go in and the
thinner one should be too loose (photo).
85 If the clearance is wrong, measure the
clearance and write it down with the number of
the valve. When all the clearances have been
checked, it will be necessary to remove those
shims which are fitted where the clearances are
wrong, and renew them with different thickness
shims. If a clearance is too big, use a thicker
shim. If a clearance is too small use a thinner
shim. Calculate by simple subtraction. 86 To change a shim, turn the engine until the
relevant cam is pointing upwards, then turn the
tappet in its housing so that the slot in the rim is
accessible.
87 The manufacturer provides special tools for
depressing tappets (Nos. A60480 and A60443).
These make the job easier if they can be
borrowed, but it is possible to do the job without
them. The best way is to make up a tool from a
piece of steel plate shaped as shown in the
photograph. Alternatively use a screwdriver to
lever the tappet down and another on
e, on edge,
to hold the tappet down by positioning it
between the camshaft and the rim of the tappet;
then remove the lever. This is quite tricky and
needs some care to avoid any damage. If in any
doubt about doing this job it should be left to a
FIAT agent. As well as having the right tools he
will also have a stock of shims from which to
choose those required to correct wrong
clearances. It is expensive buying shims that are
not required (photo).
88 With the tappet held down, prise the shim out
with a thin screwdriver. The FIAT way is to lift
the shim using compressed air, which is
effective if an air line is available. The shims are
held in quite strongly by the oil film and they
must be lifted up square or they will jam.
Remove the shim with long-nosed pliers
(photos).
89 When new, shims have their thickness
marked in millimetres on their undersides. This
marking may wear off and then it will be
necessary to measure their thickness with a
micrometer. From the thickness of the shim and
the error in the clearance, calculate the size of
shim required to produce the correct clearance.
90 Insert the new shim, numbered side down
towards the tappet. Remove the tools used for
depressing the tappet and repeat the operation
until all clearances are correct.
91 Using clean engine oil lubricate all moving
and sliding parts in the camshaft/tappet
assembly. Fit a new gasket and refit the
camshaft cover together with the nine bolts and
washers. Tighten the bolts progressively (photo).

Engine - final assembly
92 Completing assembly of the 1049 cc engine
follows broadly the procedure for that of the
smaller engine which is dealt with in Chapter 1,
Section 56.
93 The manifold gasket is supplied in two parts
for the 1049 cc engine (photo). These serve

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Fig. 13.4 Engine mounting (right-hand side) (Sec.3)

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Fig. 13.4 Engine mounting (right-hand side) (Sec.3) Fig. 13.5. Engine mounting (left-hand side) (Sec.3)

1 – Mounting
2 – Crankcase
1 – Mounting to chassis bolts
2 – Mounting
3 – Mounting to transmission bracket

both the inlet and exhaust manifolds which are
on the same side of the engine.
Engine removal - 127 Special and 127
from chassis number 1104290 onwards
94 The removal of the engine assembly from
these models is slightly different from that
described in Chapter 1, owing to redesigned
engine mountings.
95 For the later type of mountings,
disconnection of the engine is achieved by
removal of the engine suspension mounting
securing bolts after taking the weight of the
assembly on a hoist.
96 On refitting the assembly tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque load.
4. Fuel system

Carburettors - general
1 On L, C and CL models the 1049 cc engine is
fitted with either a Weber 32 ICEV 161150 or a
Solex C32 TDI/4 carburettor with a downdraught
single venturi and automatic coolant heated
choke (photos).
2 On Sport versions, a dual venturi Weber
carburettor is fitted with manual choke.

Weber or Solex single venturi
carburettors

Removal and refitting
3 Remove the air cleaner
4 Disconnect the throttle cable (photo).
5 Disconnect the distributor vacuum pipe
(photo). 6 Disconnect the fuel flow and return
hoses 7 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
automatic choke housing and tie the pipes as
high as possible to prevent coolant loss (photo).
8 Unbolt the carburettor flange mounting bolts
and lift the carburettor from the manifold.
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new flange mounting gasket
Dismantling and adjustment
10 Clean the outside of the carburettor, remove
the top cover screws and lift off the cover.
11 Clean out the float bowl.
12 Any jets or bleed screws if removed, should
only be cleaned by blowing air through them.
Never probe with wire or their calibration will be
ruined.
13 Check the float level by holding the
carburettor cover vertically so that the float
hangs down, and then measure between the
casting flange and the nearest point of the float.
Adjust if necessary by bending the float arm tab
until the clearance conforms with the
Specifications according to carburettor.
14 The automatic choke will not normally require
dismantling, but if the cover is removed, make
sure that the centre index marks on the cover
and housing are in alignment before tightening
the choke cover screws.
15 On later carburettors, the mixture screw is
fitted with a tamperproof cap and adjustment to
the slow-running should therefore be limited to