oil reset FIAT 500 1957 1.G Workshop Manual

Cylinder head installation:
To refit the cylinder head proceed as follows:
Place a new cylinder head joint on the cleaned faces of
the cylinder barrels. Insert the rocker pushrod and
lubrication pipe sleeves together with the relevant
gaskets and rings.
Fit the washers and nuts to the studs and tighten to
fingertight.
Tighten the nuts in the order shown in FIG 1 :44 and
FIG 1 :46 to a torque wrench setting of 18.1 Ibft. Reset
the torque wrench to a new setting of 23.9 Ibft and
tighten the nuts once more in the recommended order.
Replace the pushrods in the correct order.
Refit the rocker shaft ensuring correct location of the
lubrication tube to the rocker shaft and replace the
plain and lockwashers. Tighten the nuts to a torque
wrench setting of 15.2 Ibft. Reset the tappet to rocker
clearance adjustment.
Connect the t w o exhaust side manifolds to the cylinder
head. Using new gasket refit the spark plugs and HT
cables. Replace the rocker cover fitted with a new cork
gasket and blower conveyor to the cylinder head
securing screws. Refit the carburetter and reconnect its
fuel line and controls. Refit the air cleaner and elbow
and connect the rocker cover breather pipe (if fitted).
1
2
3
4
5
1 :7 Timing gear overhaul
Camshaft:
The cast iron camshaft is located in the crankcase and is
supported at either end in sets machined directly in the
crankcase. No bushes are used. The camshaft is driven by
a chain from the crankshaft at half engine speed and
operates the overhead valves through tappets, pushrods
and rockers (see
FIG 1 :20).During engine overhaul the camshaft journals and cam
faces should be free of score marks or signs of seizure and
have a bright mirror finish.
The distributor drive gear should be inspected for tooth
wear which if excessive means that the camshaft must be
replaced.
Tappets:
The tappets should be inspected for signs of seizure or
excessive wear. The end surface that is in contact with the
camshaft should be smooth without signs of excessive
wear. Any slight scratches or indentations may be
removed using a very fine oil stone.
Pushrods and sleeves:
The pushrods operate in special axially resilient sleeves
that are compressed on assembly between the cylinder
head and the crankcase. It is through these sleeves that
the engine sump is vented also through which the oil
returning from the cylinder head passes.
Two rubber O-ring seals are fitted to each sleeve to
ensure an oil t i g h t seal between the cylinder head and
crankcase. The sleeves should be checked for distortion
and exact equal length and when refitting new seals must
always be fitted.
The pushrods should be checked for straightness and
the t w o ends that contact the rocker setscrew and the
F50019
The crankcase is an aluminium casting suitably ribbed
to ensure correct air cooling. The main bearing and cam-
shaft bearing bores are machined as also are the tappet 1 :8 Crankcase and cylinders During valve gear overhauls the clearance between the
rocker shaft bore and the rocker must be checked. The
maximum permissable wear between these t w o parts is
.0059 inch. It is recommended that the part which is most
worn be renewed, or in extreme cases both parts. Rocker and rocker shaft: tappet seat must not show any signs of roughness or
excessive wear. 3 Oil shield (for intake valves only) 4 Snap ring
5 Rocker 6 Upper spring cup 7 Valve spring
8 Lower spring cup 9 Pushrod 10 Tappet
11 Oil seal ring 12 Pushrod sleeve 13 Seal ring 1 Intake valve 2 Upper cup lock Key t o Fiq
1 :20 FIG 1:20 Valve, pushrod and tappet assembly FIG 1:19 Camshaft. The arrow points to the lube oil
outlet port

FIG 3 : 1 Ignition system wiring diagram
BATTERY
SWITCHBREAKER COIL
SPARK PLUG
CONDENSER
FIG 3 : 2 Ignition distributor in place on engine with
cap lifted offCURRENT CONTACT
TO SPARK PLUG
BREAKER A R M
STATIONARY
CONTACT
CARRIER
ADJUSTING
SCREW
CONTACT POINTS HIGH TENSION)
CARBON CONTACT
3 : 3 Routine maintenance
Refer to FIG 3: 2 and remove the distributor cap and lift
off the rotor arm. Lubricate the cam spindle felt pad using
Fiat VS oil. There is provision for the oil to make its way
downwards. Squirt a few drops of oil into the distributor
shaft lubrication fitting, the location being shown in FIG
3:3 Smear a little grease on the cam and a small drop of
oil to the contact breaker point pivot.
Adjusting the contact breaker points:
Refer to FIG 3 : 2 and slacken the stationary contact
carrier adjusting screw. Slowly rotate the engine until one
one of the t w o cams has opened the points to the fullest
48
extent so that the gap is measured at the position of the
maximum opening. Reset the gap to a correct clearance of
.0185 to .0209 inch and tighten the contact carrier screw.
Cleaning the contact points:
If the contact points are dirty or pitted they must be
cleaned by polishing them with a fine carborundum stone
taking very great care to ensure that the contact faces are
flat and square. Afterwards wipe away all dust with a cloth
moistened in petrol. The contacts may be removed from
the distributor body to assist refacing and cleaning refer-
ring to Section 3:5. If the moving contact is removed
from its pivot, check that its operation is not sluggish. If it is
tight, polish the pivot pin with a strip of fine emery cloth,
clean off all dust and apply a tiny spot of oil to the top of
the pivot pin. If a spring testing gauge is available the
contact breaker spring should have a tension of 16.8± 1.8
oz. measured at the points.
3 :4 Ignition faults
If the engine runs unevenly set it to idle at a fast speed.
Taking care not to touch any metal part of the sparking
plug leads, pull up the insulator sleeve and short each
plug in turn, using a screwdriver with an insulated handle.
Connect the screwdriver blade between the plug top and
the cylinder head. Shorting a plug which is firing properly
will make the engine uneven running more pronounced.
Shorting a plug in a cylinder which is not firing will make
no difference.
Having located the
faulty cylinder, stop the engine and
remove the plug lead. Start the engine and hold the lead
carefully to avoid shocks so that the metal end is about
3/16 inch away from the cylinder head. A strong regular
spark shows that the fault might be with the sparking plug.
Remove and clean it according to the instructions in
Section 3 :8. Alternatively substitute it with a new plug.
If the spark is weak and irregular, check that the lead is
not perished or cracked. If it appears to be defective,
renew it and try another test. If there is no improvement,
remove the distributor cap and wipe the inside clean and
dry. Check the carbon brush located as shown in FIG 3 : 2 .
It should protrude from the cap moulding and be free to
move against the pressure of the internal spring. Examine
the surface inside the cap for signs of 'tracking' which can
be seen as a thin black line between the electrodes or to
some metal part in contact with the cap. This is caused by
sparking, and the only cure is to fit a new cap.
Testing the low-tension circuit:
Before carrying out electrical tests, confirm that the
contact breaker points are clean and correctly set, then
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the black low-tension cable from the
ignition coil and from the side of the distributor.
Connect a test lamp between the t w o terminals. Turn
the engine over slowly. If the lamp lights when the
contacts close and goes out when they open, the
low-tension circuit is in order. If the lamp fails to light
the contacts are dirty or there is a break or loose con-
nection in the low-tension wiring.
2 If the fault lies in the
low-tension circuit, switch on
the ignition and turn the crankshaft until the contact
breaker points are fully open. Refer to the wiring
diagram in Technical Data and check the circuit with

indicates the condition inside the combustion chamber
and may be used as a guide to engine tuning.
Before the spark plugs are removed b l o w away any
loose dirt from the plug recesses using a compressed air
jet or tyre pump. Store the plugs in the order of removal
ready for inspection.
Examine the gaskets and if they are about half their
thickness they may be used again otherwise they must be
replaced.
Inspect the electrode end of the plugs and note the
type and colour of the deposit. Normally it should be
powdery and range from b r o w n to a greyish tan in colour.
There will also be slight wear of the electrodes and the
general effect described is one which comes from mixed
periods of high-speed and low-speed driving. Cleaning
and resetting the gap is all that will be necessary.
If the deposits are white or yellowish they indicate long
periods of constant-speed driving or much low-speed
city driving. Again, the treatment is straightforward.
Dry, black, fluffy deposits are usually the result of
running with too rich a mixture. Incomplete combustion
of the petrol air charge may also be a cause and this might
be traced to a defect in the ignition system or excessive
idling.
Overheated sparking plugs have a white blistered look
about the centre electrode and the side electrode may be
badly eroded. This may be caused by poor cooling, wrong
ignition timing or sustained high speeds under heavy load.
To clean the sparking plugs effectively they should be
cleaned using an abrasive blasting machine and tested
under pressure once the electrodes have been reset. File
these until they are clean, bright and the faces parallel and
set the gap to .019 to .023 inch. Do not try to bend the
centre electrode.
Before replacing the plugs use a wire brush to clean the
threads taking care that the electrodes are not touched.
Thoroughly clean the spark plug in petrol, and dry using a
compressed air jet or a tyre pump. If difficulty is found in
screwing the plugs into the cylinder head by hand run a
tap d o w n the threads to clear away any carbon. If a tap is
not available use an old sparking plug with crosscuts d o w nthe threads. Finally tighten the plugs to a torque wrench
setting of 18 to 21 Ib ft.
Sparking plug leads:
The spark plug leads and the lead from the coil to the
distributor cap must be regularly checked for cracking of
the insulation and also correct seating in the distributor
cap and coil top. It is recommended that silicone grease is
smeared around the sockets before the leads are replaced
to ensure no moisture may enter causing difficult starting.
3 : 9 The distributor driving spindle (sedan and
sports engine)
If for any reason, the driving spindle has been removed
from its housing in the crankcase, it must be correctly
meshed w i t h the camshaft gear otherwise it
will be impos-
sible to set the ignition timing.
3:10 Fault diagnosis
(a) Engine w i l l not fire
1 Battery discharged
2 Distributor contact points dirty, pitted or maladjusted
3 Distributor cap dirty, cracked or tracking
4 Carbon brush inside distributor cap not touching rotor
5 Faulty cable or loose connection in low-tension circuit
6 Distributor rotor arm cracked
7 Faulty coil
8 Broken contact breaker spring
9 Contact points stuck open
(b) Engine misfires
1 Check 2, 3, 4, and 7 in (a)
2 Weak contact breaker spring
3 High-tension plug and coil leads cracked or perished
4 Sparking plug(s) loose
5 Sparking plug insulation cracked
6 Sparking plug gap incorrectly set
7 Ignition timing too far advanced

high bearing preload. To reset remove the wheel shaft
and fit a new resilient spacer. Repeat the rotation
torque test.
Swinging arm adjustment:
To adjust the swinging arm use Fiat fixture A.66064 as
shown in FIG 7 : 3 and proceed as follows:
1 At points A and B as indicated in FIG 7 : 4 between the
'estendblock' and the swinging arm to body front
mounting bracket fit three shims on each side. To
ensure that the shims are correctly centred use Fiat
alignment bar A.66057.
2 Whilst removing the alignment bar, carefully slip in the
mounting pin and screw on the nut. Once the rear
wheel geometry adjustment has been completed this
nut should be tightened to a torque wrench setting
of 43.4 to 50.6 Ib ft.
3 At points C and D (see FIG 7 : 4) , insert the number of
shims required to fill in the gap between the 'estend-
block' and the two fixture shoulders. Having deter-
mined the number of shims required both at locations
C and D, these must later be fitted between the
'estendblock' and the shoulders on the swinging arm
to body mounting bracket.
7 : 4 Coil springs
The coil springs should be thoroughly cleaned and all
traces of rust removed. Inspect the spring coils for hair
line cracks, which if evident, a new pair of springs must
be fitted to ensure correct vehicle height and stability.
Check the free
height and the height under loading of
the coil springs and these must correspond to the figures
quoted in Technical Data.
7:5 Installation of rear suspension assembly
To replace the rear suspension assembly proceed as
follows:
1 Insert the swinging arm inner end in the mounting
bracket which is welded onto the body floor. Place
between the 'estendblock' and bracket the number of
adjustment shims as previously determined using Fiat
fixture A.66064 as shown in FIG 7 : 4. Insert the Fiat
alignment bar A.66057 through 'estendblock' and
shims, aligning them with the holes in the mounting
bracket. Firmly hold the entire assembly using a garage
hydraulic jack if necessary, and carefully remove the
alignment bar and at the same time ease in t h e
mounting pin. Secure the nut which once the rear
wheels geometry has been checked must be tightened
to a torque wrench setting of 43.4 to 50.6 Ib/ft.
2 Screw in finger tight the three swinging arm external
bracket to body floor mounting screws together w i t h
the plain and spring washers. The screws will have to
be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 28.9 to
36.2 Ib/ft once the rear wheel geometry has been
adjusted.
3 Carefully insert the coil spring, lower insulator ring
onto the swinging arm, insert the spring on the shock
absorber which should be previously secured to the
arm and position the spring onto its seat on the arm.
Place the upper insulator ring onto the spring, raise the
suspension assembly using a garage hydraulic jack and
insert the spring onto its seating under the body floor.
F50083 4 Ensure that the shock absorber to floor rubber ring has
been correctly fitted and extend the shock absorber
until its upper mounting pin protrudes into the vehicle
through the hump in the floor panel. Secure the shock
absorber by its mounting nut and lockwasher having
first inserted the rubber ring and plain washer.
5 Refit the rear wheel housing in place, reconnect the
brake line to the connection on body floor and remove
the plug from the output hole in the brake fluid
reservoir. Bleed the hydraulic brake system as
described in Chapter 10.
Key to Fig 7:8 k Distance of centre rear bracket, for
jacking up the vehicle, from floor level (8.90 inch)
Half-track = 22.264 inch ±.059 inch
FIG 7 : 8 Position of rear suspension f o r rear wheel
toe-in inspection and adjustment ('500 Station Wagon') FIG 7 : 7 Adjusting rear wheel toe-in angle
Key to Fig 7 : 7 Rear wheel plane must be perpendicular to
ground and parallel to car longitudinal centerline with a
tolerance of 0° 10'
To adjust rear wheel geometry, move suitably the swinging arm
outer support. Slight movements are permitted by the play
existing between the support holes A and the mounting screws.
Screws B must be tightened to 28.9 to 36.2 Ibft (4000 to 5000
kg mm). Nuts C must be tightened to 43.4 to 50.6 Ib ft (6000
to 7000 kgmm), after adjustment has been carried out. (These
directions and specifications are also applicable to 500 Station
Wagon).