FIAT 500 1966 1.G Workshop Manual

Checking cut-out:
1 Closing voltage:
This test should be carried out at a temperature of
25°±10°C and the regulator should be connected to a
generator test bed as shown in FIG 11:7. The unit should
be operated under no load conditions for between 15 -
18 minutes with the cover installed and w i t h a voltage of
between 16.5 volts for an initial operating temperature of
15-20°C or 15 volts for an initial operating temperature
of 20-35°C. This will enable thermal stabilization of the
unit to be obtained so that the temperature of both the
cut-out shunt windings and the bymetallic springs
increase due to the heat developed by the windings and
reaches the normal operating setting.
Once thermal stabilization has been obtained the
generator should be restarted and the speed gradually
increased so that immediately the test lamp starts to
glow the voltmeter reading may be taken. This will be
the value of the cut-out contact closing voltage.
2 Reverse current:
This check should be carried out at a temperature range
of between 25°±10°C and it is recommended that it is
performed as soon as possible after the closing voltage
test so that the thermal stabilization remains unaltered.
Connect the regulator as shown in FIG 11:8 and
gradually speed up the generator to 4500 rev/min for
approximately 5 minutes. Ensure that the voltmeter reads
at least 14.5 volts and then gradually reduce the generator
speed carefully watching the movement of the ammeter
needle which should at first indicate a charging current
and then gradually move to zero and then to the other side
of the scale to indicate reverse current value. If the
generator speed is reduced further the reverse current
reading will increase to a given value and then suddenly
fall to zero which will indicate that the cut-out contact
has opened. This limit indicates the maximum reverse
current value which should not, under any circumstances,
exceed 16 amps.
During this test, to obtain the maximum reverse
current possible the reduction in generator speed must
not take more than 10 seconds otherwise the battery
voltage will drop excessively.
Checking voltage regulator:
This test should be carried out w i t h the regulator under
half load and at a temperature of 50°± 3°C. Connect the
regulator as shown in FIG 11:9 and operate the regulator
for approximately 30 minutes by supplying a current half
that of regulated current which is 1 6 ±5 amp. Once the
regulator has been brought to the required temperature
stop the generator and start it again, gradually increasing
the speed to a maximum of 4500 rev/min. Adjust the
rheostat for a generator output corresponding to half load
current of 8 ± 2 amps. When this generator output has
been set the voltage should be 14.2± .3 volts.
Checking current regulator:
Leave the regulator connected as shown in
FIG 11 :10
and this test must be carried out immediately after testing
the half load regulated voltage of the voltage regulator
when connected to a battery. Check that the ammeter
fitted will accommodate a 40 amp deflection: if not a
F500117
FIG 11 :9 Wiring diagram for checking the current and
voltage regulators
Key to Fig 11:9 GR Regulator GN 1.1 2.1 6 G Generator
FIAT D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5% accuracy)
A Ammeter, 20 A scale (to check voltage regulator) and 40 A
scale (to check current regulator)
B Battery, 50 Ah, fully chargedR Rheostat, 25 A. 3
FIG 11 :10 Wiring diagram for setting the cut-out relay
Key to Fig 11 :10 B 2 V battery B 20 V batteryA Ammeter, 20 A scale ( 1 % accuracy) V Voltmeter, 20 V
scale (0.5% accuracy), directly connected to terminals 31—51
P Potentiometer for voltage adjustment, having such a capacity
that the current draw of the cut-out shunt winding does not
cause sensible variations in the voltage readings (voltmeter
under no load) S Test lamp, with 2 V, 3 W bulb, to signal
opening and closing of contacts R Rheostat, 4 12
AR Voltage drop resistor, suitable to allow turning on of A withT open and cut-out contacts open
Setting of instruments before inserting the unit: P At
minimum (voltmeter reads zero) T Open R All inserted
(max. resistance) T Open
FIG 11:11 Wiring diagram for setting the voltage and
current regulators
Key to Fig 11 :11 GR Regulator assembly GN 1.12.16
G Generator D 90.12.16.3 V Voltmeter, 20 V scale (0.5%
accuracy) A Ammeter, 20 Amp. scale (for voltage regulator),
or 40 Amp. scale (for current regulator) R Rheostat, 25
Amps., 3 Ohms B 50 Amp/h battery, fully charged I Switch

FIG 11:12 Wiring diagram for setting the cutout relay
Key to Fig 11 :12 B 2 V battery B 20 V battery
A Ammeter, 15 A scale ( 1 % accuracy) V Voltmeter, 20 V
scale (0.5% accuracy), directly connected to terminals 31-51
P Potentiometer for voltage adjustment, having such a capacity
that the current draw of the cutout shunt winding does not cause
sensible variations in the voltage readings (voltmeter under no
load) S Test lamp, with 2 V, 3 W bulb, to signal opening
and closing of contacts R Rheostat, 4 , 1 2 A R Voltagedrop rheostat, suitable to allow turning on of S with T open and
cutout contacts open
Setting of instruments before inserting the unit: P At
minimum (Voltmeter reads zero) T Open R All inserted
(max. resistance) T Open
1
2
3
4
5
6
FIG 11:13 Location of electrical system fuses
Key to Fig 11 :13 1 Fuse N o . 30.2 2 Fuse N o . 30.3
3 Fuse N o . 56.b1 4 Fuse N o . 56.b2 5 Fuse N o . 15.54
6 Fuse N o . 30
meter w i t h a fuller scale deflection of 40 amp must be
substituted. Adjust the rheostat to give maximum
resistance and operate the regulator for approximately
30 minutes with regulator controlled current and 13 volt
supply. The resistor R of the rheostat should be adjusted
until the current is steady whilst the voltage drops. This
will indicate that the unit has reached normal operating
temperature. Stop the generator, restart it and speed up
gradually to 4500 rev/min. Check that the regulated
current value corresponds to the specified value of
1 6± .5 amps. By continually reducing the resistance the
current should remain constant. The voltage however
should decrease to as l o w as 12 volts.
118
Cut-out relay adjustment:
Ascertain the type of regulator fitted and then wire to
the test unit as shown in FIG 11:10 or FIG 11 :12.
Before the unit is assembled to the test bed the instru-
ments should be set as follows:
P - at minimum so that voltmeter reads zero.
T — open.
R - all inserted giving maximum resistance.
T - open.
1 Contact closing voltage:
This test should be carried out at an ambient tempera-
ture of 25°±10°C. Close the switch T and stabilize the
regulator thermally by feeding current into it for approxi-
mately 15 to 18 minutes at 16.5 volts which is obtained
by adjusting P for initial regulator operating temperatures
of between 15°-20°C or at 15 volts for initial operating
temperatures of 20°-35°C. Once the stabilizing of the
regulator has been completed bring the voltage to 12 6±
.2 volts by adjusting P. Adjust the load on the setting
spring by bending the relevant arm until the pilot light S
is extinguished. Reset P to m inimum and again increase
the voltage by P and check that the pilot lamp is extin-
guished at the specified voltage.
2 Reverse current:
This test must be carried out at a temperature of
25°± 10°C and it is recommended that it is carried out as
soon as possible after the closing voltage test so as to
maintain minimum regulator thermal stability. With the
switch T closed bring the voltage to 14.5 volts by
operating P. The contacts of the cut-out should be closed
and the pilot lamp S off. Close T and increase the reverse
current by means of the rheostat R and check that the
pilot lamp S glows as the contacts part. The opening may
also be unsteady which will be indicated by a slight
buzz from the unit. Check the value of the ammeter of the
reverse current causing the opening of the contacts and
this should not exceed 16 amps. If the reading is unstable
or S lights up at the recommended limit reset the reverse
current to the minimum value and repeat the test once
more. Finally open the switches T and T and again
adjust rheostat R and P to the minimum settings.
Voltage regulator adjustment:
This test should be carried out at a temperature of
5 0 ° ±3 ° C . Connect the unit as shown in FIG 11 :11 and
load the voltage regulator adjusting springs by bending
the relevant arm. With the unit at the required test
temperature close 1 start the generator and stabilize
the regulator thermally by feeding a current for 30
minutes at 15 volts, which is obtained by adjusting the
generator speed. The generator should then be stopped,
I opened and the generator restarted and gradually
speeded up to 4500 rev/min. The voltage regulator
spring load adjustment should be set by suitably bending
the relevant adjusting arm and by rheostat R so as to have
a voltage of 14.2±.3 volts and a half load current of
8 ± 2 amps. Finally check the steadiness and accuracy
of the voltage regulator setting by stopping the generator
and restarting after approximately 2 minutes and gradually
speeding up to 4500 rev/min.

WINDSHIELD WIPER
MOTOR ASSY
WIPER MOTOR SCREWS
WIPER MOTOR BRACKET
FIG 11:15 Arrangement of windshield wiper unit on
vehicle
B M INT F
SC12 V
31
D
A
SWITCH PARKING
0 ON
SWITCH LEVER POSITIONS
FIG 11:16 Windshield wiper wiring diagram
Key to Fig 11 :16 A Series winding B Shunt winding
D Switch M Motor S Additional winding F INT
C =Terminals
120signal lamp pairs. The flasher unit connections are in
FIG 11:14 and the unit is of the hot wire type.
Faulty operation of flashers:
In cases of trouble check the bulb for broken filaments.
Refer to the wiring diagrams in Technical Data and check
all flasher circuit cables and connections. Check the
appropriate fuse. Switch on the ignition and check w i t h
a voltmeter between flasher unit positive terminal and
earth to see if battery voltage is present. Connect together
flasher unit positive terminal and L and operate the
direction indicator switch. If the flasher lamps now light,
the flasher unit is defective and must be renewed. It is not
possible to dismantle and repair a faulty flasher unit.
Before removing make a note of the connections so that
they will be replaced correctly when the new unit is being
installed.
Before making the connections it is advisable to check
the circuits to ensure that the new flasher unit is not
damaged by wrong connection. Test by joining the
cables normally connected to the unit and operate the
switch. If the connections are wrong the appropriate
fuse will blow but no damage will be done to the flasher
unit.
Never insert terminal L directly to earth without having
first connected in series the bulbs specified, otherwise
the flasher unit will be damaged. For the same reason
terminal L must never be shorted to ground nor must there
by any short circuits in any of the leads from the L
terminal to the bulbs. The flasher unit must never receive
blows of any kind since it is a very delicate component
and easily damaged.
11:8 Windscreen wipers
Description:
The windscreen wiper assembly comprises a motor
unit that drives t w o wiper blades through a reduction
gearing and mechanical linkage. The reduction gear
includes a worm screw on the motor armature shaft and a
helical pinion. The motor, left blade pivot and linkages
are mounted on a sheet metal bracket, whilst the right
blade pivot is connected to the main drive link. When
assembled to the vehicle the right blade pivot is fixed
directly onto the body. The unit is provided w i t h an
automatic parking device which ensures that the blades
return to their correct park position. The w
indscreen wiper
is- controlled by a lever switch with three separate
positions on earlier models or a simple on-off switch on
later models.
Maintenance:
Maintenance is confined to the changing of the wiper
blades when they have deteriorated and occasional
lubricating of the mechanical linkage.
Wiper unit faulty operation :
1 It is important that the wiper unit assembly is correctly
fitted to the body otherwise distortion of the wiper
mounting bracket can occur which will cause
abnormal stresses on the pivot and linkages resulting
in irregular and difficult blade sweep.
2 If the blades keep on sweeping at a reduced speed
although the switch lever has been pressed to the

parking position the trouble will be found in the sliding
sector which fails to open the switch D (see FIG
11 :16) . Check by removing the four motor cover
mounting screws and uncover the sliding sector. If
possible suitably bend the sector to bring it against
into contact with the rod tip of switch D.
3 If the automatic parking of the blades does not occur
when the switch lever is fully depressed to the parking
position but the motor stops when the switch is
operated the cause of the trouble is that the switch D
is not closing and consequently no current is flowing
between the terminals C and INT. This will probably
be due to dirt lodged between the movable contact
and the fixed contacts of switch D. Thoroughly wash
the components with petrol and if necessary reface
the contacts using a very fine file.
4 Should the motor unit be noisy in operation although
still operating reliably the noise is probably due to the
reduction gear operation, whereby the pinion and
worm are excessively worn or a tooth chipped. The
motor unit must be renewed as motor unit parts are
not available in service.
5 If the switch lever is pushed upwards to the 'on'
position or depressed downwards to the Parking
position and the wiper is still inoperative thoroughly
check all terminal connections for tightness and
cables for damage which if all appear to be correct the
failure of the wiper to operate indicates an internal
fault of the motor unit which
should be repaired or
renewed as necessary.
Removal and refitting the motor:
Remove the wiper arms and the electrical connections
to the motor. Dismantling is a straightforward operation
providing that as all items are removed so they are
inspected and a note made of their locations. However,
reassembly requires more care and the following
procedure should be adopted.
1 Mount the wiper unit onto the body by fully tightening
the nuts fixing the pivots onto which the arms are
fitted. Ensure t h a t the rubber sealing bushes between
the pivots and body are correctly assembled to prevent
water ingress. Slightly lubricate with glycerine.
2 Secure the mounting bracket lower edge to the body
by means of the special square bracket. It is important
not to distort the mounting bracket and ease of
assembly is ensured by elongated holes in the square
bracket. By suitable adjustment the linkages will not
be subjected to distortion or abnormal stresses during
operation.
3 Fit the motor unit to the mounting bracket tightening
the screws and reassemble the main link to the pivot
lever. Ensure t h a t the l o c k i n g of the fastener on the
pivot lever is secure so that it does not become loose
during operation.
4 Remake all the electrical connections and run the
motor for a short time whilst checking all the switch
positions including the automatic parking. It is at this
position that the wiper blades and arms are assembled
to the wiper mechanism.
5 Onto the pivots, install the shims, snap ring, wiper arm,
plain washer and lockwasher. Fully tighten the nuts
with the wiper arms in the parked position.
F500
FIG 11 :17 Headlamp removal
Key to Fig 11:17 1 Screw for vertical beam adjustment
2 Screw for horizontal beam adjustment 3 Headlamp
locating hook 4 Headlamp retaining ring and spring
5 Lamp unit 6 Bulb spring retainers 7 Bulb
8 Junction block
6 Ensure that the wiper arms can be tilted 100 deg.
downwards without striking against the cowl or front
compartment lid. Also ensure that the blade pressure
on the glass is 10.6 to 12.3 oz.
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
Description:
The lighting system comprises t w o headlights with
double filament bulbs of 45 watts for main beam and
40 watts for dip. Headlight control is operated through
the outer light switch below the steering wheel after the
toggle switch at the centre of the instrument panel has
been operated.
A double filament bulb for the front parking and
direction indicator lights is located below the headlights:
alternatively, the parking light may be incorporated in the
headlamp unit. The bulb is of 5 watt rating for the parking
lights and 20 watts for the direction indicator lights.
Two side direction indicator lamps are fitted with 2.5
w a t t b u l b s . The rear number plate is illuminated by a 5
watt bulb operated from the main lighting circuit.
Two three purpose rear light units are fitted and are
provided with a one single filament 20 watt bulb for the
direction indicator and one double filament bulb of 5 watt
rating for the parking circuit and 20 watt for stoplights.
Headlamp removal:
The headlamp on earlier cars may be removed from the
front panel by slightly depressing the lens and rotating the
unit counterclockwise through 15 deg. on later cars a
retaining spring is unhooked inside the front compart-
ment and the lamp can then be lifted out (FIG 11 :17).
121

FIG 11:18 Replacement of bulb from inside f r o n tcompartment
Key to Fig 11 :18 1 Double-filament bulb 2 Bulbholder
3 Side direction indicator light 4 Bulbholder shield
PARKING LAMP
LENS
SIDE DIRECTIONINDICATOR
FIG 11 :19 Disassembling front parking and direction
indicator lamp
Replacement of the bulb is achieved from inside the front
compartment by pulling down the upper lug of the
rubber protection cap at the rear of t h e headlight unit and
freeing the bulb holder. Pull up the bulb holder to
reflector fastener spring and pull out the bulb holder
complete and replace the bulb as necessary.
Beam setting:
Accurate setting is best left to a service station
equipped with the necessary equipment. The main beams
must be set parallel to the road surface or in accordance
with local regulations. Adjustment is made by turning
the top screw 1 as indicated in FIG 11:17 for the
vertical setting and the lower screw 2 for the horizontal
setting.
122
FIG 11 : 20 Disassembling tail parking, stop, direction
indicator lamp and reflector lens REFLECTOR LENS PARKING A N D
STOP LAMP INDICATOR LAMP
DIRECTION
LENSLENS
SCREWS
Lamps light when switched on but gradually fade:
Check the battery as it is incapable of supplying
current for any length of time. Front parking and direction indicator lamp:
To replace the double filament bulb, release the screws
securing the lens to the lamp casing as shown in FIG
11 :19 and remove the bulb from its bayonet holder. Where
the parking lamp is in the headlamp unit the bulbholder
can be pulled out inside the front compartment.
Rear parking, direction indicator, stop lamps and
reflector lens:
To renew any of the t w o bulbs remove the t w o screws
securing the lens to the lamp casing as shown in FIG
11 : 2 0. Bulbs are fixed by bayonet couplings.
Side direction indicator lamps:
To replace the 2.5W bulb slide off the bulb holder
from the rubber socket located as shown in FIG 11 :19.
The bulb is secured by a bayonet coupling.
Number plate lamp:
To replace the bayonet coupled 5W bulb remove the
lens and light cap mounting screws as shown in FIG
11:21.
Lamps give insufficient light:
Test the state of charge of the battery and recharge if it
is necessary from an independent supply. Check the
setting of the lamps. If the bulbs have darkened through
age fit new ones.
Lamps burn out frequently:
If this is accompanied by a need for frequent topping-
up of the battery and high hydrometer readings, check
the charging rate with an ammeter when the car is
running. This should be around 3 to 4 amps. A reading in
excess of this calls for adjustment of the regulator.

Lamp brilliance varies w i t h the speed of t h e car:
Check the condition of the battery. Examine the battery
connections. Make sure they are tight and renew faulty
cables.
11:10 Panel and warning lights:
All the gauges are clustered in a single instrument
mounted on the dashboard above the steering column.
Incorporated in this cluster is the parking light pilot light,
generator charge indicator, fuel reserve supply indicator,
low oil pressure indicator, and the speedometer w i t h
mileage recorder.
The parking lamp indicator glows green when the
ignition lock switch key is in either position 1 or 2 once
the toggle switch on the instrument panel has been
operated.
The generator charge indicator shows red only when
the ignition is turned on. It should be extinguished when
the generator output is sufficient for battery charge
(12.6 ± 0.2 volts) with the engine running at a speed
of 1100 rev/min and the headlights switched off.
The fuel reserve supply indicator shows red only when
the ignition is turned on and the amount of fuel in the
petrol tank has dropped to approximately .8 to 1.1
Imp. gallons.
The low oil pressure indicator shows red only when the
ignition is turned on and should be extinguished when
the oil pressure reaches 7.1 to 21.3 Ib/sq in, and opens
the sending unit contacts. Once the engine is at normal
operating temperature but at a speed below 1000 rev/
min the indicator might light up even the pressure is under
control and with normal operation.
All the bulbs fitted to the above described units are of
the tubular 2.5W type and to renew a bulb extract the
bulb holder from the rear of t h e instrument cluster and
release the bulb which is attached by a normal bayonet
coupling.
Fuel reserve supply indicator sender u n i t:
The fuel reserve supply indicator should be checked for
correct indication by allowing the fuel tank to empty and
then inserting .8 to 1.1 Imp. gallons at which stage the
light should extinguish. Any failure to do so should be
checked as follows:
1 Ensure that the indicator bulb operates correctly.
2 Check for complete circuit between the sender unit and
the indicator bulb.
3 If the sender unit float bracket is distorted the bulb
will
indicate a reserve supply of fuel greater or smaller than
specified. The bracket should be adjusted to give
correct indication of fuel level.
4 The sender unit could have been inadvertantly
damaged in which case the unit must be renewed.
11 :11 The horn
The horn circuit comprises the horn, push button at the
centre of the steering wheel and normal earth return
electrical circuit through the car body. One terminal is
connected to the battery whilst the other to the push
button on the steering wheel which when the button is
depressed the circuit will be closed so causing the horn
to operate.
F500
FIG 11 : 21 Number plate lamp
Key to Fig 11 : 21 A Lens and light cap mounting screws
B Lens
FIG 11 : 22 Horn (opened)
Key to Fig 11:22 1 Body 2 Diaphragm 3 Armature
4,5,6 Core 7 Cable: terminal-condenser-stationary contact
8 Cable: terminal-magnetizing coil end 9 Magnetizing coil
FIG 11 :23 Horn sound adjustment. Obtained by adjust-
ing the armature air gap
123

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty

(h) Starter motor rough or noisy
1 Mounting bolts loose
2 Damaged pinion or flywheel gear teeth
( i ) Lamps inoperative or erratic
1 Battery low, bulbs burned out
2 Faulty earthing of lamps or battery
3 Lighting switch faulty, loose or broken wiring
connections
F500
125
(j) Wiper motor sluggish, taking high current
1 Faulty armature
2 Bearings out of alignment
3 Commutator dirty or short-circuited
(k) Wiper motor operates but does not drive
arms
1 Gearbox components worn

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CHAPTER 12
THE BODYWORK
12:1
12:2
12:3
12:4
12:5
12:6
12:7Bodywork finish
Interior and chrome cleaning
Door trim and accessories
Door handles and locks
Removing regulator and door glass
Removing windshield glass
Removing rear side windows12:8
12:9
12:10
12:11
12:12
12:13
12:14Removing rear window glass
Front compartment lid
Engine compartment lid
Folding top
Sun roof
Seats
Interior heater
12:1 Bodywork finish
Large scale repairs to body panels are best left to
expert panel beaters. Even small dents can be tricky, as too
much hammering will stretch the metal and make things
worse instead of better. Filling minor dents and scratches
is probably the best method of restoring the surface. The
touching up of paintwork is well within the powers of
most car owners, particularly as self-spraying cans of
paint in the correct colours are now readily available. It
must be remembered, however, that paint changes colour
w i t h age and it is better to spray a whole wing rather than
try to touch up a small area.
Before spraying it is essential to remove all traces of
wax polish with white spirit. More drastic treatment is
required if silicone polishes have been applied. Use a
primer surfacer or paste stopper according to the amount
of filling required, and when it is dry, rub it down with
400 grade Wet or Dry paper until the surface is smooth
and flush with the surrounding area. Spend time on
getting the best finish as this will control the final effect.
Apply the retouching paint, keeping it wet in the centre
and light and dry round the edges. After a few hours of
drying, use a cutting compound to remove the dry spray
and finish with liquid polish.
F500127
12:2 Interior and chrome cleaning
The cloth upholstery of the seating and the rear
compartment lining must be regularly cleaned to ensure
long life and preserve its attractive appearance. Any dust
or dirt that is blown into the car will settle on the uphol-
stery and will tend to wear the cloth causing an unsightly
appearance. It is recommended that the dust is wiped off
using either a vacuum cleaner or a stiff brush. To remove
ordinary soiling of the upholstery cloth proceed as
follows:
1 Using luke warm water and a neutral soap and a piece
of clean cloth wipe over the upholstery in the direction
of the nap.
2 Repeat the operation using a clean damp cloth and
warm water but no soap.
3 Allow the upholstery cloth to dry, use a stiff brush
against the direction of the upholstery nap to restore
its original fluffy look.
To obtain best results, any stains must be removed as
soon as possible otherwise as time passes they will
become more difficult, if not impossible to remove.
Certain stains require specific solvents and the instruc-
tions must be strictly adhered to.