Gear FIAT 500 1967 1.G Service Manual

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement

WINDSHIELD WIPER
MOTOR ASSY
WIPER MOTOR SCREWS
WIPER MOTOR BRACKET
FIG 11:15 Arrangement of windshield wiper unit on
vehicle
B M INT F
SC12 V
31
D
A
SWITCH PARKING
0 ON
SWITCH LEVER POSITIONS
FIG 11:16 Windshield wiper wiring diagram
Key to Fig 11 :16 A Series winding B Shunt winding
D Switch M Motor S Additional winding F INT
C =Terminals
120signal lamp pairs. The flasher unit connections are in
FIG 11:14 and the unit is of the hot wire type.
Faulty operation of flashers:
In cases of trouble check the bulb for broken filaments.
Refer to the wiring diagrams in Technical Data and check
all flasher circuit cables and connections. Check the
appropriate fuse. Switch on the ignition and check w i t h
a voltmeter between flasher unit positive terminal and
earth to see if battery voltage is present. Connect together
flasher unit positive terminal and L and operate the
direction indicator switch. If the flasher lamps now light,
the flasher unit is defective and must be renewed. It is not
possible to dismantle and repair a faulty flasher unit.
Before removing make a note of the connections so that
they will be replaced correctly when the new unit is being
installed.
Before making the connections it is advisable to check
the circuits to ensure that the new flasher unit is not
damaged by wrong connection. Test by joining the
cables normally connected to the unit and operate the
switch. If the connections are wrong the appropriate
fuse will blow but no damage will be done to the flasher
unit.
Never insert terminal L directly to earth without having
first connected in series the bulbs specified, otherwise
the flasher unit will be damaged. For the same reason
terminal L must never be shorted to ground nor must there
by any short circuits in any of the leads from the L
terminal to the bulbs. The flasher unit must never receive
blows of any kind since it is a very delicate component
and easily damaged.
11:8 Windscreen wipers
Description:
The windscreen wiper assembly comprises a motor
unit that drives t w o wiper blades through a reduction
gearing and mechanical linkage. The reduction gear
includes a worm screw on the motor armature shaft and a
helical pinion. The motor, left blade pivot and linkages
are mounted on a sheet metal bracket, whilst the right
blade pivot is connected to the main drive link. When
assembled to the vehicle the right blade pivot is fixed
directly onto the body. The unit is provided w i t h an
automatic parking device which ensures that the blades
return to their correct park position. The w
indscreen wiper
is- controlled by a lever switch with three separate
positions on earlier models or a simple on-off switch on
later models.
Maintenance:
Maintenance is confined to the changing of the wiper
blades when they have deteriorated and occasional
lubricating of the mechanical linkage.
Wiper unit faulty operation :
1 It is important that the wiper unit assembly is correctly
fitted to the body otherwise distortion of the wiper
mounting bracket can occur which will cause
abnormal stresses on the pivot and linkages resulting
in irregular and difficult blade sweep.
2 If the blades keep on sweeping at a reduced speed
although the switch lever has been pressed to the

parking position the trouble will be found in the sliding
sector which fails to open the switch D (see FIG
11 :16) . Check by removing the four motor cover
mounting screws and uncover the sliding sector. If
possible suitably bend the sector to bring it against
into contact with the rod tip of switch D.
3 If the automatic parking of the blades does not occur
when the switch lever is fully depressed to the parking
position but the motor stops when the switch is
operated the cause of the trouble is that the switch D
is not closing and consequently no current is flowing
between the terminals C and INT. This will probably
be due to dirt lodged between the movable contact
and the fixed contacts of switch D. Thoroughly wash
the components with petrol and if necessary reface
the contacts using a very fine file.
4 Should the motor unit be noisy in operation although
still operating reliably the noise is probably due to the
reduction gear operation, whereby the pinion and
worm are excessively worn or a tooth chipped. The
motor unit must be renewed as motor unit parts are
not available in service.
5 If the switch lever is pushed upwards to the 'on'
position or depressed downwards to the Parking
position and the wiper is still inoperative thoroughly
check all terminal connections for tightness and
cables for damage which if all appear to be correct the
failure of the wiper to operate indicates an internal
fault of the motor unit which
should be repaired or
renewed as necessary.
Removal and refitting the motor:
Remove the wiper arms and the electrical connections
to the motor. Dismantling is a straightforward operation
providing that as all items are removed so they are
inspected and a note made of their locations. However,
reassembly requires more care and the following
procedure should be adopted.
1 Mount the wiper unit onto the body by fully tightening
the nuts fixing the pivots onto which the arms are
fitted. Ensure t h a t the rubber sealing bushes between
the pivots and body are correctly assembled to prevent
water ingress. Slightly lubricate with glycerine.
2 Secure the mounting bracket lower edge to the body
by means of the special square bracket. It is important
not to distort the mounting bracket and ease of
assembly is ensured by elongated holes in the square
bracket. By suitable adjustment the linkages will not
be subjected to distortion or abnormal stresses during
operation.
3 Fit the motor unit to the mounting bracket tightening
the screws and reassemble the main link to the pivot
lever. Ensure t h a t the l o c k i n g of the fastener on the
pivot lever is secure so that it does not become loose
during operation.
4 Remake all the electrical connections and run the
motor for a short time whilst checking all the switch
positions including the automatic parking. It is at this
position that the wiper blades and arms are assembled
to the wiper mechanism.
5 Onto the pivots, install the shims, snap ring, wiper arm,
plain washer and lockwasher. Fully tighten the nuts
with the wiper arms in the parked position.
F500
FIG 11 :17 Headlamp removal
Key to Fig 11:17 1 Screw for vertical beam adjustment
2 Screw for horizontal beam adjustment 3 Headlamp
locating hook 4 Headlamp retaining ring and spring
5 Lamp unit 6 Bulb spring retainers 7 Bulb
8 Junction block
6 Ensure that the wiper arms can be tilted 100 deg.
downwards without striking against the cowl or front
compartment lid. Also ensure that the blade pressure
on the glass is 10.6 to 12.3 oz.
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
Description:
The lighting system comprises t w o headlights with
double filament bulbs of 45 watts for main beam and
40 watts for dip. Headlight control is operated through
the outer light switch below the steering wheel after the
toggle switch at the centre of the instrument panel has
been operated.
A double filament bulb for the front parking and
direction indicator lights is located below the headlights:
alternatively, the parking light may be incorporated in the
headlamp unit. The bulb is of 5 watt rating for the parking
lights and 20 watts for the direction indicator lights.
Two side direction indicator lamps are fitted with 2.5
w a t t b u l b s . The rear number plate is illuminated by a 5
watt bulb operated from the main lighting circuit.
Two three purpose rear light units are fitted and are
provided with a one single filament 20 watt bulb for the
direction indicator and one double filament bulb of 5 watt
rating for the parking circuit and 20 watt for stoplights.
Headlamp removal:
The headlamp on earlier cars may be removed from the
front panel by slightly depressing the lens and rotating the
unit counterclockwise through 15 deg. on later cars a
retaining spring is unhooked inside the front compart-
ment and the lamp can then be lifted out (FIG 11 :17).
121

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty

(h) Starter motor rough or noisy
1 Mounting bolts loose
2 Damaged pinion or flywheel gear teeth
( i ) Lamps inoperative or erratic
1 Battery low, bulbs burned out
2 Faulty earthing of lamps or battery
3 Lighting switch faulty, loose or broken wiring
connections
F500
125
(j) Wiper motor sluggish, taking high current
1 Faulty armature
2 Bearings out of alignment
3 Commutator dirty or short-circuited
(k) Wiper motor operates but does not drive
arms
1 Gearbox components worn

Inner panels:
Imitation leather-lined masonite trim panels are fitted
to all versions of the new 500' models. The panels are
secured in the housing below the door window by means
of four stiff clips located at the top and seven spring clips
located at the bottom equally spaced around the panel
border. The fasteners are located in holes in the door
framework inner flange. The door framework has a plate
which should be bent downwards onto the trim panel
once it has been installed. This will ensure correct seating
of the trim panel in the door housing.
When the door trim panel is being reassembled ensure
that the tarred felt pad is cemented correctly on the door
inner flange so that any water that may seep in through to
the door interior from the window rubber weather strips
may be kept away from the trim panel which would
otherwise cause distortion and rapid deterioration.
12:4 Door handles and locks
The doors are provided with locks which are operated
by handles either from inside or outside the vehicle.
Removal of the lock is a straightforward operation but
upon reassembly the following procedure should be
followed:
1 Mount the handle assembly from the outside and
insert the washer onto the stud. Screw in the nut several
turns to allow correct handle-to-lock mating on final
fitting.
2 Arrange the locking handle dog so that it is horizontally
positioned and tighten the mounting nut.
3 Mount the lock to the door panel and secure w i t h three
screws and washers.
4 Fit the plate w i t h the t w o rubber guide blocks fastening
by the t w o screws.
Striker plates are fitted with shim adjustment to the
door pillars and are secured by three screws.
12:5 Removing window regulator and door glass
Window regulator:
Description:
The window regulator unit is of the lever and gear
control type which transmits crank movement to the
lifting lever using high ratio gears. When the operating
handle is rotated it rotates a pinion mounted on its shaft
which is in mesh w i t h a gear on the hub of which is
mounted a second pinion that meshes with the lever
toothed sector (refer to FIG 1 2 : 3) . At the end of the lever
a pin fitting locates in a guide rail mounted on the
bottom of the glass. When the crank is rotated in one or
other direction the glass is either lifted or lowered.
Regulator removal:
1 Depress the door lining panel so that the crank key may
be located. Remove the key and the crank handle.
2 Using a wide blade screwdriver prise off the trim panel
by inserting the blade between the panel and the door
frame taking care not to scratch the door paint.
3 Remove the intermediate protection lining.
F500129
FIG 12:3 Lefthand side door window regulator, viewed
from car interior
FIG 12:4 Location of window regulator in lefthand side
door panel housing
4 Release the screws securing the window regulator
to the door. Carefully tilt the regulator so as to dis-
engage the lever pin from the guide on the bottom of
the glass and lift away the regulator assembly.
Regulator reassembly:
To ensure satisfactory regulator operation carefully
lubricate the gears and the lever pin guide and also
ensure that the glass slides freely in its channels. To

NUT AND JAM NUT FOR
ADJUSTING PIN FRICTION
FIG 12:5 Ventilation panel lower pivot
FIG 12:6 Removal of windshield glass. Simply press
out as shown
reassemble the regulator to the door is the reverse
procedure to dismantling. The following points should
however, be noted:
1 Before the lining is refitted to the door panel ensure
that the regulator operates correctly. Ensure t h a t the
glass moves up and down in its channels without
excessive efforts required on the crank handle.
2 Once the lining is glued into place ensure that it
adheres evenly on the door so that the window
regulator operation is not interfered with at a later date
due to the lining becoming detached.
130
FIG 12:7 Positioning the windshield after tilting wiperblades
Door window drop glass and weather strip :
Description:
The door windows are fitted with swivelling front glass
ventilators and a drop rear glass pane. The 'new 500'
convertible is equipped with stationary type window rear
glass which is secured to the door panel by means of t w o
brackets and screws together with spring washers and
nuts.
Removal of door glass:
To remove the door window drop glass proceed as
previously described for removing the regulator assembly,
and t h e n ease forward the front glass guide and then
carefully lift away the glass.
Reassembly:
1 Fit Fiat No. 16 clips equally spaced all along the door
window flange.
2 Install the glass runway by inserting it in the rear and
upper side of the window groove. The runway is
fastened in place by the spring clips.
3 Install the glass runway, complete with the fabric lining
and secure it to the regulator frame on the top side
using self-tapping screws and on the bottom side w i t h
the bracket, screw, plain washer and spring washer.
4 Secure the gear type window regulator to the door
panel using the three screws, three plain washers and
three toothed washers.
5 Refit the window rubber weather strips which are lined
with fabric on both inner faces that touch the glass
pane. Lock the weather strips in place w i t h the Fiat
clips.
6 Replace the metal joint cap.
7 Fit and correctly locate the drop glass complete with
lower rubber weather strip, metal channel and run
plate for sliding travel of window regulator arm.