Switch FIAT 500 1968 1.G Workshop Manual

FIG 1 :40 Engine detail showing lube oil passages
Key to Fig 1 :40 1 Splines in crankshaft for oil passage
to filter 2 Oil inlet into circuit from filter 3 Hole for
oil passage to main bearing
FIG 1 : 4 1 Timing marks on sprockets. On later cars the
crankshaft key way is on the underside
size that centrifugal force does not sling oil into the area
where the foreign matter is collected. The outer flange
inner face has radial vanes on its face which retain the
foreign matter and the oil is conveyed to the centre of
the filter.
The oil to be filtered issues from the side splines 1
(see FIG 1 :40) of the crankshaft and is forced by the
slinger to the periphery of the filter where it is cleaned and
returns to the centre of the filter and into the crankshaft
drilling 2. The inner flange or hub and the slinger are
secured to the crankshaft by a special hollow screw 6 as
shown in FIG 1 :39, the outer flange is attached to the
hub by six screws.
28
If the camshaft has been disconnected from the crank-
shaft for any service operation the valve gear will have to
be retimed and to do this proceed as follows:
1 Turn the crankshaft until the reference line on its
sprocket is pointing towards the camshaft as shown in
FIG 1 :41.
2 Turn the camshaft until the reference dot on its
sprocket registers w i t h the crankshaft sprocket. Leave
the shafts undisturbed and carefully mount the chain.
Should it be necessary to check the valve timing and
sprocket marks, proceed as follows:
1 Fit Fiat C.673 tool as shown in FIG 1 :42.
2 Temporarily adjust the valve stem-to-rocker arm
clearance of cylinder No. 1 at .01 77 inch for the inlet
valve and .01 50 inch for the exhaust valve (Model 500
engine) or at .01 54 inch for both valves (Model 500
sports).
3 Rotate the crankshaft and set the flywheel timing mark
at 'O' on the graduated sector. Check that the sprocket
marks are correctly lined up in this position.
If the engine is being assembled, to install the driven
gear, proceed as follows:
1 Set the timing mark on the drive sprocket towards the
centre of the camshaft.
2 Position the driven sprocket on the camshaft mounting
flange with four screw holes in line and tighten two
mounting screws only.
3 Rotate the camshaft until the driven sprocket mark
registers w i t h the reference line on the drive sprocket.
4 Remove the driven sprocket without moving the
camshaft. Install the timing chain and replace the
driven sprocket. Tighten the four screws to a torque
wrench setting of 6.5 Ib ft.
1:15 Valve timing
The oil pressure indicator sender unit is located on the
righthand side of the cylinder block and is connected to
an indicator light in the instrument cluster on the dash-
board.
The red indicator lights only when the ignition is
switched on and goes out when o i l pressure has built
up to between 8.5 and 14 Ib/sq in.
Should an accidental shortcircuit occur in the oil
pressure indicator circuit, the sender unit may be damaged
so the cause must be traced and rectified before the unit
is renewed.
Oil pressure indicator sender unit:
To ensure a reliable lubrication system there must be
no oil leaks from the gasket between the outer and inner
flanges. Every t i m e t h e engine is overhauled the filter
must be dismantled, cleaned and new gaskets fitted.
To clean the filter, remove the six screws and washers
and separate the drive pulley and hub. Carefully scrape
the inner surfaces to remove all sludge.
Upon reassembly the filter to crankshaft hollow
mounting screws must be tightened to a torque wrench
setting of 1 08.5 Ib ft. The cover to mounting flange screws
must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 5.8 Ibft.
Cleaning and inspection:
A groove is machined on the outer flange periphery to
form a pulley for the generator and blower drive belt.

FIG 3 : 1 Ignition system wiring diagram
BATTERY
SWITCHBREAKER COIL
SPARK PLUG
CONDENSER
FIG 3 : 2 Ignition distributor in place on engine with
cap lifted offCURRENT CONTACT
TO SPARK PLUG
BREAKER A R M
STATIONARY
CONTACT
CARRIER
ADJUSTING
SCREW
CONTACT POINTS HIGH TENSION)
CARBON CONTACT
3 : 3 Routine maintenance
Refer to FIG 3: 2 and remove the distributor cap and lift
off the rotor arm. Lubricate the cam spindle felt pad using
Fiat VS oil. There is provision for the oil to make its way
downwards. Squirt a few drops of oil into the distributor
shaft lubrication fitting, the location being shown in FIG
3:3 Smear a little grease on the cam and a small drop of
oil to the contact breaker point pivot.
Adjusting the contact breaker points:
Refer to FIG 3 : 2 and slacken the stationary contact
carrier adjusting screw. Slowly rotate the engine until one
one of the t w o cams has opened the points to the fullest
48
extent so that the gap is measured at the position of the
maximum opening. Reset the gap to a correct clearance of
.0185 to .0209 inch and tighten the contact carrier screw.
Cleaning the contact points:
If the contact points are dirty or pitted they must be
cleaned by polishing them with a fine carborundum stone
taking very great care to ensure that the contact faces are
flat and square. Afterwards wipe away all dust with a cloth
moistened in petrol. The contacts may be removed from
the distributor body to assist refacing and cleaning refer-
ring to Section 3:5. If the moving contact is removed
from its pivot, check that its operation is not sluggish. If it is
tight, polish the pivot pin with a strip of fine emery cloth,
clean off all dust and apply a tiny spot of oil to the top of
the pivot pin. If a spring testing gauge is available the
contact breaker spring should have a tension of 16.8± 1.8
oz. measured at the points.
3 :4 Ignition faults
If the engine runs unevenly set it to idle at a fast speed.
Taking care not to touch any metal part of the sparking
plug leads, pull up the insulator sleeve and short each
plug in turn, using a screwdriver with an insulated handle.
Connect the screwdriver blade between the plug top and
the cylinder head. Shorting a plug which is firing properly
will make the engine uneven running more pronounced.
Shorting a plug in a cylinder which is not firing will make
no difference.
Having located the
faulty cylinder, stop the engine and
remove the plug lead. Start the engine and hold the lead
carefully to avoid shocks so that the metal end is about
3/16 inch away from the cylinder head. A strong regular
spark shows that the fault might be with the sparking plug.
Remove and clean it according to the instructions in
Section 3 :8. Alternatively substitute it with a new plug.
If the spark is weak and irregular, check that the lead is
not perished or cracked. If it appears to be defective,
renew it and try another test. If there is no improvement,
remove the distributor cap and wipe the inside clean and
dry. Check the carbon brush located as shown in FIG 3 : 2 .
It should protrude from the cap moulding and be free to
move against the pressure of the internal spring. Examine
the surface inside the cap for signs of 'tracking' which can
be seen as a thin black line between the electrodes or to
some metal part in contact with the cap. This is caused by
sparking, and the only cure is to fit a new cap.
Testing the low-tension circuit:
Before carrying out electrical tests, confirm that the
contact breaker points are clean and correctly set, then
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the black low-tension cable from the
ignition coil and from the side of the distributor.
Connect a test lamp between the t w o terminals. Turn
the engine over slowly. If the lamp lights when the
contacts close and goes out when they open, the
low-tension circuit is in order. If the lamp fails to light
the contacts are dirty or there is a break or loose con-
nection in the low-tension wiring.
2 If the fault lies in the
low-tension circuit, switch on
the ignition and turn the crankshaft until the contact
breaker points are fully open. Refer to the wiring
diagram in Technical Data and check the circuit with

a n 0—20 v o ltmeter. If the circuit is in order the meter
should read approximately 12-volts.
3 Battery to fuse box terminal 30. Connect the volt-
meter between the terminal 30 and earth. No reading
indicates a faulty cable or loose connection.
4 Fuse box. Connect the voltmeter between the other
auxiliary terminal 30 and earth. No reading indicates a
broken or loose connection.
5 Fuse box auxiliary terminal 30 to terminal
number 30 on ignition switch. Connect the meter
between terminal number 30 on the ignition switch
and earth. No reading indicates a damaged cable or
loose connection.
6 Ignition switch. Connect the meter between termi-
nal 15/54 and earth. Switch onto the ignition position,
when no reading indicates a fault in the switch.
7 Ignition switch to low-tension cable connection
on the coil (blue cable). Connect the meter
between ignition coil terminal (blue cable) and earth.
No reading indicates a damaged cable or loose con-
nection.
8 Ignition coil. Disconnect the black low-tension cable
connecting the coil to the distributor side terminal at
the coil and connect the meter between this terminal
and earth. No reading indicates a fault in the primary
winding of the coil and a replacement coil must be
fitted. If the reading is correct remake the connections
to the coil.
9 Ignition coil to distributor. Disconnect the thin
black low-tension cable at the side of the distributor
and connect the meter between the end of this cable
and earth. No reading indicates a damaged cable or
loose connections.
10 Contact breaker and capacitor. Connect the
meter across the contact breaker points. No reading
indicates a faulty capacitor.
Capacitor:
The best method of testing a capacitor (condenser) is
by substitution. Disconnect the original capacitor and
connect a new one between the low-tension terminal on
the side of the distributor and earth.
If a new capacitor is needed, fit a new one complete
w i t h bracket, but if necessary unsolder the original bracket
and solder it onto the new capacitor using as little heat as
possible. Capacitor capacity is .15-.20 microfarads.
3 : 5 Removing and dismantling distributor (sedan
and sports)
To remove the distributor proceed as follows:
1 Rotate the engine slowly until the distributor rotor arm
is opposite the brass segment in the distributor cap
connected to No. 1 plug lead. This will provide a datum
for replacement.
2 Disconnect the cable from the low-tension terminal on
the side of the distributor body. Mark position of distri-
butor on support. Release the distributor retaining nut
and washer from the underside of the top flange of the
distributor support and carefully lift away the dis-
tributor.
3 Pull off the rotor arm. Remove the insulated terminal
assembly from the side of distributor body. Release the
contact breaker carrier plate retaining screws and con-
denser flange screw from the outside of the distributor
F50049 body. Carefully lift out the contact breaker plate
assembly.
4 Before further dismantling note the relative positions of
the driving dog and the rotor arm driving slot at the top
of the distributor cam spindle. The driving dog is offset
and can only engage its driving spindle in one position.
Then when the cam assembly is fitted to the centrifugal
weights during reassembly the timing is not 180 deg.
out.
5 Take out the cam lubrication felt pad recessed in the
rotor arm housing on the end of the cam spindle.
Remove the retaining screw, carefully disengage the
springs and lift out the cam spindle. It should be noted
that there is a small retaining ball and spring located in a
drilling nearly at the top of the drive shaft spindle.
Carefully lift away the weights.
6 Thoroughly clean all parts and inspect for excessive
wear. The distributor cap must not be cracked or show
signs of tracking. The cap terminals, rotor and contact
breaker points can be cleaned with a very fine file.
Emerypaper must not be used. If the clearance between
the rotor and distributor cap segments exceeds .0118
inch both the rotor and distributor cap must be replaced.
Inspect the contact breaker arm rubbing block for exces-
sive wear and also the points for wear so that if the gap
exceeds the last setting limit of .0209 inch and adjust-
ment through the stationary contact carrier screw is no
longer possible (see FIG 3 : 2) , the contact breaker set
must be renewed.
If the distributor drive shaft side or vertical movement is
excessive the distributor must be renewed.
Weak centri-
fugal weight springs or damaged weights must be
renewed using original Fiat spares otherwise the auto-
matic ignition advance characteristics could be altered.
FIG 3 : 3 Ignition distributor in place on engine SPARK PLUG CABLES
IGNITION COIL CABLE!
DISTRIBUTOR CAP
DISTRIBUTOR BODY
GROUND CABLE
CONDENSER
DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT
LUBRICATION FITTING
DISTRIBUTORSUPPORT-TO--CRANKCASE NUT
[MOUNTING SCREWDISTRIBUTOR
DISTRIBUTOR SUPPORT

FIG 10:1 Diagrammatic view of service and rear wheel parking brake system
Key to Fig 10:1 1 Bleeder connections 2 Brake fluid reservoir 3 Service brake pedal 4 Hand lever, mechanical
parking brake on rear wheels 5 Hand lever travel adjustment stretchers 6 Stop lamps 7 Mechanical brake operating lever,
controlled from lever 4 8 Shoe clearance self-adjusting device 9 Wheel cylinders 10 Master cylinder 11 Stoplight
pressure-operated switch
FIG 10:2 Left front wheel brake assembly (500 Sedan)
SHOE
RETURN
SPRINGSHOE MOUNTING
BRACKET SHOE
RETAINING
PLATE SHOES
DEVICESHOE
SELF-ADJUSTING
WHEEL CYLINDERSHOE RETURNSPRING
2 Check that the hydraulic flexible hoses are not con-
taminated with oil or grease which would destroy the
rubber.
3 Ensure that all pipeline fastening clips are secure
otherwise hydraulic line failure could occur due to
cracking caused by excessive vibration.
104
4 Carefully clean all connections and inspect for
hydraulic fluid leaks. Should any leaks be detected
then the connections should be tightened taking very
great care not to twist the pipes during this operation.
5 Ensure that the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir is
correctly filled up to the top of the filter using Fiat
special 'Blue Label' brake fluid. Extra care must be
taken to ensure that no fluid is spilled over the body
paintwork, as this acts as a strong solvent.
6 Ensure that the play between the brake pedal pushrod
and the master cylinder plunger is .019 inch. This will
correspond to approximately .098 inch free pedal
travel.
Never use any fluid but the recommended hydraulic
fluid. Do not leave it in unsealed containers as it will
absorb moisture which can be dangerous. It is best to
discard fluid drained from the system or after a bleeding
operation. Observe absolute cleanliness when working
on all parts of the hydraulic system.
10:3 Front brakes
Front brake drum removal:
1 Remove the wheel trims and carefully slacken the road
wheel retaining bolts. Using a garage hydraulic jack
raise the front of the vehicle and place on firmly
based stands. Remove the road wheels.

FIG 10:5 Section view of right side rear brake assembly
(500 Station Wagon)
FIG 10:6 Sectional view of a self-adjusting device for
automatic brake shoe-to-drum clearance take-up (500
Sedan)
Key to Fig 1 0 : 6 1 Pin 2 Friction washers 3 Load spring
4 Bushing 5 Shoe 6 Self-adjustment slot 7 Stud
2 Make a note of the location of the shoe return springs
and gently ease t h e shoes away from the backplate
(see FIG 10:4)
3 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the rear of t h e
wheel cylinder and also the shoe operating lever return
spring, the pin, washer and clevis from the lever so
releasing the handbrake inner operating cable.
4 Remove the t w o cylinder retaining bolts and lift away
the hydraulic cylinder.
106
Brake shoe linings:
Refer t o Section 10:3.
Brake drums:
Refer to Section 10:3.
Reassembly of rear brakes:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. Ensure
that the pull-off springs are correctly fitted to the holes
in the webs of the brake shoes and that the shoes
register in the slotted ends of the pistons and the side
mounting plate.
Carefully retract the position of the brake shoes and
ease t h e d r u m towards the hub ensuring that the four
bolt holes line up correctly. Replace the four bolts
together with their spring washers, reconnect the hand
brake cable. Refit road wheel and wheel trim.
10:5 Master cylinder
Operation:
Hydraulic fluid is admitted to the master cylinder
through hole 8 (see FIG 10:7), it seeps through the gap
between the valve carrier ring 17 and the master cylinder
dowel and flows through the valve carrier ring holes 15
so reaching the hydraulic lines, therefore filling the
system w i t h fluid. When the brake pedal is depressed the
plunger is moved forwards by the pushrod 12. This
forward action of the plunger 9 and valve carrier 17 brings
the valve 16 to rest against the valve front face. The
forward movement is continued so causing the valve ring
16 to pass over the compensation hole 5 and cutting off
communication with the fluid reservoirs. From this point
compression of the hydraulic fluid commences.
Hydraulic fluid acting on the front and inner faces of
the valve enables perfect valve sealing even under high
operation pressures. When the pressure reaches the fluid
in the wheel cylinders (see FIG 10:8) , it forces the
plungers 3 apart and through the plungers stems so
operating the brake shoes.
After releasing the brake pedal, the combined action
of the brake shoe and master cylinder plunger return
springs sends the fluid back to the master cylinder and
all parts resume their original position. The connection
between the hydraulic
system and the reservoir is
restored.
As there are no conventional valves fitted in the master
cylinder and the communication orifice between the
system a n d the reservoir is amply dimensioned the
bleeding operation is very straightforward.
Master cylinder removal:
1 Disconnect the stoplight cables from the pressure
operated switch.
2 Using a tapered w o o d plug of suitable size blank t h e
hole in the brake f l u i d reservoir.
3 Screw out the four front and rear cylinder brake fluid
delivery line connections at the master cylinder.
4 Remove the t w o master cylinder retaining nuts and
spring washers and carefully ease the hydraulic
cylinder from the body.

FIG 10:7 Master cylinder section
Key to Fig 10:7 1 Plug and spring seat 2 Body 3 Front wheel brake line duct 4 Plunger return spring
5 Compensating hole 6 Plug 7 Supply duct 8 Fluid inlet hole 9 Plunger 10 Plunger snap ring 11 Boot
12 Pushrod 13 Terminal, stoplight switch 14 Rear wheel brake line duct 15 Holes in floating ring carrier for fluid passage
16 Valve 17 Valve carrier 18 Seal
FIG 10:8 Wheel cylinder section
Key to Fig 10:8 1 Shoe actuating stems 2 Boot
3 Plungers 4 Fluid inlet hole 5 Seal rings
6 and 7 Spring thrust cups and plunger reaction spring
Apply the brakes hard for several minutes and inspect the
master cylinder and hydraulic connections for leaks.
10:6 Wheel cylinder operation
Hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder reaches
the fluid in the wheel cylinders by hydraulic pipes and it
forces the plungers 3 (see FIG 1 0 : 8) apart and through
the plungers the brake shoes operate. In the wheel
cylinders the sealing rings 5 are axially compressed by
the cup 6 under the action of the spring 7. The rings are
under the radial and axial action of hydraulic pressure
so that their sealing efficiency is increased as the
hydraulic pressure increases.
Checking wheel cylinders:
Once the wheel cylinders have been removed from
the brake backplate as previously described remove the
rubber boots 2 (see FIG 10:8) on the ends of the cylinder.
The plungers, brake shoe stems and sealing rings will be
pushed out due to normal spring expansion. Remove the
spring thrust cups and plunger reaction spring.
107F500
Master cylinder reassembly:
Ensure that the metal parts are clean. Dry off any
solvent used for cleaning. Renew all the rubber seals as
a matter of course. Wet the internal parts w i t h clean brake
fluid and reassemble them in the order shown in FIG
10:7.
Refitting the master cylinder:
Carefully locate the master cylinder flange to the body
panel ensuring that the pushrod 12 (see FIG 10:7)
correctly locates in the plunger 9. Secure the master
cylinder flange using the t w o nuts and spring washers.
Refit the hydraulic pipes.
Remove the tapered wooden plug from the reservoir
and bleed the system as described in Section 10:10. Dismantling master cylinder:
1 Refer to FIG 10 :7 and remove the plunger and rubber
boot from the cylinder body.
2 Using a pair of circlip pliers remove the plunger
circlip.
3 Carefully slide off from the inside of the cylinder body
the plunger, plunger seal, valve ring carrier, valve ring
and the reaction spring.
4 Remove the stoplight pressure operated switch.
5 Remove the cylinder body stop plug and upper plug.
6 Carefully inspect the master cylinder inner surface and
plunger outer surface to ensure that they have a mirror-
like finish and that the play between the two parts is
not excessive. Any roughness present on the cylinder
inner surface will necessitate renewing the complete
assembly. Scoring or corrosion of the surface will
quickly damage the rubber seals and can lead to
leakage of fluid and consequent partial or complete
brake failure. Check that the plunger return spring is not
corroded or distorted.

CHAPTER 11
THE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
11:1 Description
11:2 Battery
11:3 The generator
11:4 The starter
11:5 The control box
1 1 : 6 Fuses
1 1 : 7 Flasher unit
11:1 Description
All models covered by this manual have 12 volts
electrical systems in which the negative battery terminal
is earthed. There are three units in the regulator box to
control the charging circuit; a cut-out, a current regulator
and a voltage regulator. These are adjustable but it must
be stressed that accurate moving coil meters are required
when checking or altering the settings. Cheap and
unreliable instruments will make accurate adjustments
impossible.
There are wiring diagrams in Technical Data at the end
of this manual to enable those with electrical experience
to trace and correct wiring faults.
For t h e U.K. Market the headlamps are of the double
filament dipping renewable bulb type with adjustments
for individual beam settings.
The battery is located in the front compartment
forward of the petrol tank and the fuses to the rear o f the
petrol tank.
Detailed instructions for servicing the electrical equip-
ment will be found in this chapter, but it must be pointed
out that it is not sensible to try to repair that which is
seriously defective, electrically or mechanically. Such
equipment should be replaced by new units which can
be obtained on an exchange basis.
F500111
11 :8 Windscreen wipers
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
11:10 Panel and warning lights
11:11 The horn
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
1 1 : 1 3 Fault diagnosis
11.2 The battery
This of the 12-volt lead/acid type and has to meet
heavy demands for current particularly in the winter. To
maintain the performance of the battery at its maximum
it is essential to carry out the following operations.
Keep the top of the battery and surrounding parts dry
and clean, as dampness can cause leakage between the
securing clamps and the battery terminals. Clean off any
corrosion from the metal parts of the battery mounting
with diluted ammonia and paint them with an anti-
sulphuric paint. If the terminal posts are corroded,
remove the cables and clean w i t h diluted ammonia.
Smear the posts w i t h petroleum jelly before remaking the
connections and fit the terminals securely. High electrical
resistance due to corrosion at the terminal posts is often
responsible for lack of sufficient current to operate the
starter motor.
Ensure t h a t the filler plugs are in good condition and
show no signs of cracks. This may cause leakage of
electrolyte and consequent corrosion. Test the condition
of the cells after topping-up the electrolyte level with
distilled water to just above the tops of the separators as
shown in FIG 11 :2 . Never add neat acid. If it is
necessary to make a new electrolyte due to loss by
spillage add sulphuric acid to the
distilled water.
It is highly dangerous to add water to acid.

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading

1
791011 8 234
11
10
16,15
14 13
1265
FIG 11:5 Components of starter
Key to Fig 11:5 1 Drive end head 2 Head shield 3 Frame 4 Switch 5 Commutator cover band
6 and 7 Pin and spring for lever 8 8 Starting engagement lever 9 Head shield 10 and 11 Head fixing tie rods and tubes
12 Pinion, complete 13 Starting engagement spring 14 Drive unit sleeve and free wheel hub 15 Armature
16 Commutator end head
Testing field coils:
When tested w i t h an ohmmeter the reading should be
8+.1—.3 ohms. Failing an ohmmeter use a 12-volt
supply and connect it in series w i t h an ammeter across
the field terminal and the yoke or body. The meter should
read approximately 2 amps. If there is no reading the
field coil winding has a break in it. If the reading is much
more than 2 amps or the ohmmeter records at much less
than 8 ohms it shows that field coil insulation has broken
down. Renewal of the field coils is a specialist operation
best left to a service station.
The armature:
Apart from reconditioning the commutator, there is
little which can be done to the armature itself. Never try
to straighten a bent shaft and do not machine the arma-
ture core. Armature windings are tested w i t h equipment
normally not available to the car owner. The only check
for a suspected faulty armature which the owner can do
is to substitute an armature which is known to be
satisfactory.
Generator bearings:
1 Commutator end head bearings. Remove the ball-
bearing outer race stop bracket mounting screw and
nut, ease o u t t h e stop brackets and the ballbearings.
2 Fan end head bearing. Remove the ballbearing retainer
mounting screw nuts and ease o u t t h e retainers and
the seals. Using a suitably sized drift remove the ball-
bearing.
114Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling
in both cases.
Reassembly and refitting the generator:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. The
following points should however be noted.
1 The commutator end head ballbearing outer race stop
bracket mounting screw nut must be tightened to a
torque wrench setting of .80 Ib ft.
2 The pulley and fan-to-generator armature shaft self-
locking nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench
setting of 14.5 Ib ft.
3 To assemble the commutator end bracket to the yoke,
partially withdraw the brushes and trap them in this
position by letting the springs bear on the sides of the
brushes. Fit the bracket to the armature shaft and when
it is about 1/2 inch from the yoke face, lift the springs
using a thin screwdriver or a piece of hooked wire and
this will let the brushes drop onto the commutator.
Check that the springs now bear correctly on the tops
of the brushes and push the bracket fully home.
4 Pack all ballbearings with Fiat Jota 3 grease or an
equivalent grade grease.
11:4 The starter motor
Operation:
When operating the starter hand lever through a
flexible coupling a lever is operated (see FIG 11:5)
which controls the pinion engagement with the flywheel.
As the lever completes its movement it closes the starter

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement