length FIAT 500 1968 1.G Workshop Manual

13 Remove all the bolts and washers joining the sump
casting to the crankcase making a special note of the
location of bolts of different lengths.
14 Mark the flywheel and crankshaft to ensure correct
reassembly and release the six flywheel retaining bolts
together with the lockwashers and lift away the fly-
wheel.
15 Using Fiat tool A.60156 on the two central studs, lock
the t w o cylinder barrels in place (see FIG 1 :11).
16 Turn the engine upside down ensuring that no weight
is placed on the studs.
17 Mark the connecting rods and end caps to ensure cor-
rect reassembly and remove the end caps. Place the
engine on its side and remove the cylinder barrels
clamp. Ensure t h a t t h e studs are clean and carefully
slide off the connecting rod-piston-cylinder assem-
blies from the crankcase.
18 Remove the six screws holding the rear bearing hous-
ing to the crankcase and lift away the housing. Remove
the six screws holding the front main bearing housing
to the crankcase and lift away its housing.
19 Carefully ease t h e crankshaft from the crankcase
moving it diagonally to assist w i t h d r a w a l .
20 To ensure no damage occurs to the long cylinder
barrel mounting studs these may be removed using
Fiat puller A.40010 or a universal stud remover as
shown in FIG 1 :12.
1 :6 Cylinder head removal, servicing and replace-
ment
Description:
The aluminium cylinder head is finned to increase the
cooling surface. Through bolts secure the head and the
two cylinders to the crankcase. The valves are controlled
by a camshaft through tappets, pushrods and rockers. The
connection between the head and the crankcase is via five
sleeves mounted directly between the head and crankcase,
and these accommodate the pushrods, lubricating oil and
passage for the crankcase gases. The cylinder head has
been
modified for the 110 F and later 120 engines as
they now incorporate a heater safety device as described
in Section 4 : 4 .
FIG 1:15 Cylinder head
17F500
The cylinder head should be removed whenever the
valves require attention or the engine to be decarbonized.
To remove the cylinder head proceed as f o l l o w s :
1 Remove the air cleaner, carburetter, rocker cover and the
screws securing the blower conveyor to the cylinder Removal of cylinder head: FIG 1 :17 Installing a valve guide using Tool A.60153
provided with pilot bush TOOL A. 6 0 1 5 3 -
WITH PILOT BUSH FIG 1:16 Cleaning valve guides
W I R E BRUSH A.11417 / BIS

INTAKEEXHAUSTINTAKEEXHAUST
FIG 1 :18 Main specifications of intake and exhaust valves and valves guides (dimensions in mm)
head. Disconnect the t w o side exhaust manifolds.
Note the spark plug HT cables locations and dis-
connect from spark plugs.
2 Remove the rocker shaft pedestal- and lift away the
rocker gear. Extract the pushrods, making a careful
note of their location. Remove the cylinder head hold
down nuts in the order shown in FIG 1 :44 and using a
puller as shown in FIG 1 :9 lift off the head.
Dismantling the cylinder head:
1 Using Fiat valve spring compressor A.60084 or a uni-
versal spring compressor depress the valve spring as
shown in FIG 1 :14 and lift out the cotters. Release t h e
compressor and withdraw the lock cone, oil shield
(inlet valve only) upper spring cup, valve spring and
lower spring cup. Withdraw the valve from the under-
side of the head.
2 Dismantle the remaining three valve assemblies as
detailed above ensuring that all parts are kept in sets
for correct reassembly.
Inspection and servicing of the cylinder head :
1 Remove all carbon deposits from the combustion
chambers and valve ports using a rotary wire brush or a
set of scrapers.
2 Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and to test for dis-
tortion lightly coat the machined faces with 'Engineers
Blue' or lamp
black and place the cylinder head on a
surface plate. Carefully slide to and fro and any streaks
left behind will indicate a distorted surface. A distorted
head will not make a gas-tight seal with the cylinders
and must be entrusted to an expert for correction or,
in severe cases, renewed.
3 Carefully clean the valve guides as shown in FIG 1:16
using Fiat guide brush A.11417 bis. Should the guides
18Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling.
During assembly utmost cleanliness must be observed as
any abrasive material could find its way to the pistons and
cylinder bores causing unnecessary wear. Check that the
cylinder barrel mating face is clean to ensure correct
gasket sealing.Reassembly of t h e cylinder head:
be worn then they should be removed using a press and
a suitable sized drift. The guides are press fitted with a
pinch fit of .00134 to .00244 inch. To install the guides
use Fiat tool A.601 53 as shown in FIG 1 :17. As the
guides have no stop ring during the press fitting, the
depth of insertion is determined by the Fiat tool. If the
tool is not available take the necessary depth measure-
ments before the old guides are removed. The normal
fit clearance between valve stem and guide is .00087 to
.00217 inch with a maximum wear limit of .0059 inch.
To check this see FIG 1:18.
4 The valve seats should always be reconditioned after
decarbonization. It is suggested that this operation be
left to a local service station with valve seat cutting
equipment. The valve seat angle for both inlet and
exhaust valves is 4 5 ° ± 5'.
5 Inspect the valves for soundness or distortion and if the
clearance between guide and stem is within the manu-
facturers wear tolerance of .0049 inch the valve may
be cleaned using a wire brush and the seating face
ground to an angle of 45°30' ± 5'. This again should
be left to the local service station.
Valve springs:
Thoroughly clean the valve springs of oil deposit and
inspect for cracks. It is advisable to check the free spring
height and if this dimension differs from the original
height, details of which are given in Technical Data, the
spring must be renewed. Any decrease in length indicates
that the spring has weakened.

Cylinder head installation:
To refit the cylinder head proceed as follows:
Place a new cylinder head joint on the cleaned faces of
the cylinder barrels. Insert the rocker pushrod and
lubrication pipe sleeves together with the relevant
gaskets and rings.
Fit the washers and nuts to the studs and tighten to
fingertight.
Tighten the nuts in the order shown in FIG 1 :44 and
FIG 1 :46 to a torque wrench setting of 18.1 Ibft. Reset
the torque wrench to a new setting of 23.9 Ibft and
tighten the nuts once more in the recommended order.
Replace the pushrods in the correct order.
Refit the rocker shaft ensuring correct location of the
lubrication tube to the rocker shaft and replace the
plain and lockwashers. Tighten the nuts to a torque
wrench setting of 15.2 Ibft. Reset the tappet to rocker
clearance adjustment.
Connect the t w o exhaust side manifolds to the cylinder
head. Using new gasket refit the spark plugs and HT
cables. Replace the rocker cover fitted with a new cork
gasket and blower conveyor to the cylinder head
securing screws. Refit the carburetter and reconnect its
fuel line and controls. Refit the air cleaner and elbow
and connect the rocker cover breather pipe (if fitted).
1
2
3
4
5
1 :7 Timing gear overhaul
Camshaft:
The cast iron camshaft is located in the crankcase and is
supported at either end in sets machined directly in the
crankcase. No bushes are used. The camshaft is driven by
a chain from the crankshaft at half engine speed and
operates the overhead valves through tappets, pushrods
and rockers (see
FIG 1 :20).During engine overhaul the camshaft journals and cam
faces should be free of score marks or signs of seizure and
have a bright mirror finish.
The distributor drive gear should be inspected for tooth
wear which if excessive means that the camshaft must be
replaced.
Tappets:
The tappets should be inspected for signs of seizure or
excessive wear. The end surface that is in contact with the
camshaft should be smooth without signs of excessive
wear. Any slight scratches or indentations may be
removed using a very fine oil stone.
Pushrods and sleeves:
The pushrods operate in special axially resilient sleeves
that are compressed on assembly between the cylinder
head and the crankcase. It is through these sleeves that
the engine sump is vented also through which the oil
returning from the cylinder head passes.
Two rubber O-ring seals are fitted to each sleeve to
ensure an oil t i g h t seal between the cylinder head and
crankcase. The sleeves should be checked for distortion
and exact equal length and when refitting new seals must
always be fitted.
The pushrods should be checked for straightness and
the t w o ends that contact the rocker setscrew and the
F50019
The crankcase is an aluminium casting suitably ribbed
to ensure correct air cooling. The main bearing and cam-
shaft bearing bores are machined as also are the tappet 1 :8 Crankcase and cylinders During valve gear overhauls the clearance between the
rocker shaft bore and the rocker must be checked. The
maximum permissable wear between these t w o parts is
.0059 inch. It is recommended that the part which is most
worn be renewed, or in extreme cases both parts. Rocker and rocker shaft: tappet seat must not show any signs of roughness or
excessive wear. 3 Oil shield (for intake valves only) 4 Snap ring
5 Rocker 6 Upper spring cup 7 Valve spring
8 Lower spring cup 9 Pushrod 10 Tappet
11 Oil seal ring 12 Pushrod sleeve 13 Seal ring 1 Intake valve 2 Upper cup lock Key t o Fiq
1 :20 FIG 1:20 Valve, pushrod and tappet assembly FIG 1:19 Camshaft. The arrow points to the lube oil
outlet port

*Dimension to be obtained by
adjusting the throwout lever.
FIG 5:1 Clutch assembly longitudinal section (new
500, 500D sedan and early station wagon)
5 : 2 Removal and installation
To remove the clutch unit from the vehicle proceed as
follows:
1 Remove the engine (Chapter 1) or separate the gear-
box from the engine as described in Chapter 6.
2 Remove the six screws and washers that secure the
clutch cover to the flywheel and gently ease the cover
assembly from the location dowels in the flywheel and
lift away. This will also free the driven plate.
3 Carefully clean the driven plate and clutch cover using a
compressed air jet.
4 To refit the clutch cover assembly to the flywheel
ensure that the driven plate is assembled the correct
way round as shown in FIG 5 :1 and place the cover
onto the flywheel using the locating dowels.
5 To ensure that the driven plate is correctly centred use
Fiat pilot A.62023 (see FIG 5 : 5) or a suitably sized
mandrel. Tighten the clutch mounting screws diagonally
a turn at a time to ensure correct location of the cover
onto the flywheel face. Finally, tighten to a torque
wrench setting of 5.8 to 7.2 Ib ft.
5 :3 Dismantling and inspection of clutch cover
New 500, 500D sedan and early 500 station wagon :
To dismantle the clutch cover assembly proceed as
follows:
60
To assemble the clutch cover assembly proceed as
follows:
1 Place the pressure plate complete with carrier ring bolts
and springs on Fiat fixture 62038 (see FIG 5 : 2).
2 Fit the six pressure springs in their respective seats on
the pressure plate. Insert the cups on the springs and
replace the cover.
3 Compress the clutch cover, continually checking that
the withdrawal lever supporting bolts are properly
guided into their holes in the cover. Onto the bolts, fit
the three withdrawal levers w i t h their relevant nuts and
washers.
4 Replace the carrier ring on the levers and hook up the
retaining springs. 5 :4 Assembly and adjustment
N e w 500 sedan1 Place the clutch cover assembly on Fiat fixture A.62038
as shown in FIG 5 :6 and lock the cover using the three
T-handles provided.
2 Release the w i thdrawal lever carrier ring springs and lift
away the ring.
3 Unscrew the withdrawal lever fixing nuts on the bolts
and lift out the levers and washers. Gradually slacken
the three T-handles so relieving the pressure of the
clutch springs. Remove the clutch cover, springs and
lever mounting bolts. Carefully mark all the components
to ensure that they are assembled correctly so ensuring
that correct balance of the clutch unit is obtained.
Inspection:
Thoroughly clean all parts using a compressed air jet
and proceed as follows:
1 Thoroughly check the springs for signs of overheating
causing loss of tension and compare the effective length
of the springs which when fitted new should have a
length of .9646 inch under a load of not less than 43 Ib.
If the spring length is less t h a n t h e recommended
dimension fit a complete new set of springs.
2 The length of the withdrawal lever carrier ring retaining
springs should be checked which under a normal clutch
load should be .7677 inch whilst the length'of the
expanded spring under a load of 4.85 ± .44 Ib should
be 1.1811 inch. If the springs show sign of heating or
weakening a new set should be fitted.
3 Check the withdrawa l levers and their bolts for exces-
sive wear and fit new parts as necessary.
4 Inspect the pressure plate for an excessively ridged sur-
face or signs of cracking. If the ridges are not too severe
the face may be refaced by turning on a centre lathe.
Also inspect the flywheel friction surface which may
also be refaced providing that the ridges are not too
severe.
5 Whenever the clutch driven plate linings are worn a new
driven plate should be fitted.
6 Inspect the clutch shaft splines and these should not
have a lengthwise clearance in excess of .0039 inch and
side clearance of .0118 inch w i t h respect to the driven
plate hub. Ensure that the driven plate slides easily on
the clutch shaft protruding from the rear of the gearbox
differential unit as any plate drag may be the cause of
d i f f i c u l t y in gear selection.

CHAPTER 7
REAR SUSPENSION AND WHEELS
7:1
7:2
7:3
7:4Description
Removal of rear suspension assembly
Servicing swinging arms
Coil springs
7:1 Description
The rear wheels are independently sprung by means of
coil springs and V-shaped swinging arms acting on coil
springs and telescopic double acting hydraulic shock
absorbers. The swinging arms are m o u n t e d at their inner
ends on 'estendblocks', the coil spring is fitted at the outer
end of the swinging arm. At the wheel end of the suspen-
sion arm is attached a steel pressing to which the brake
backplate and wheel bearing housing are bolted so
forming a swinging unit to which is attached the road
wheel.
The inner pivots are so located vertical wheel move-
ments do not influence the drive shaft length which
means that there is no need to fit a splined joint at the
wheel end. Two taper roller bearings which are separated
by a specially designed collapsible spacer are located in
the rear wheel bearing housing and this carries the axle
shaft. The outer end of the axle shaft is flanged and it
is to this flange that the brake drum is bolted. The splined
inner end carries a rubber cushioned coupling to which
the drive shaft flange is attached.
7 : 2 Removal of rear suspension assembly
1 Jack-up the vehicle and place on firmly based stands.
Remove the road wheel on the side from which the
suspension unit is to be removed.
F50079 7:5
7:6
7:7
7:8Installation of rear suspension assembly
Checking and adjusting rear wheel toe-in
Modifications
Fault diagnosis
2 Using a garage hydraulic jack support the swinging
arm to facilitate the removal of the upper shock
absorber mounting nut which is located inside the
vehicle on the floor. To gain access to the nut remove
the rear wheel housing linings.
3 Unhook the parking brake shoe control lever return
spring.
4 Remove the three screws securing the drive shaft
flange to the flexible coupling. Pull back the sleeve and
remove the inner spring.
5 Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, remove the filter
and plug the delivery hole in the brake f l u i d reservoir
and disconnect the flexible brake pipe from the
bracket on the body floor.
6 Disconnect the parking brake control tie rod by first
removing the cotter pin and removing the cable eye
from the pin on the shoe control lever. Release the
cable adjustment nuts and free the cable from the
fairlead on the swinging arm.
7 Using the hydraulic jack carefully lower the swinging
arm, fully retract the shock absorber by pushing in the
outer cylinder and carefully pull out the coil spring
together with its mounting rubber rings.
8 Remove the self-locking nut securing the swinging
arm to the internal support welded on the floor.
Extract the mounting pin and note the number and
arrangement of shims between the bushings and the
bracket. This will facilitate reassembly.

normal straight-ahead position with the spokes
horizontal. Check that the wheels are in the straight-
ahead position.
2 Load the vehicle to static load conditions or with four
average size passengers.
3 Move the vehicle forwards for a distance of approxi-
mately six yards so that the suspension may settle
correctly.
4 The toe-in measurements should be taken at the same
point of the wheel rim. Measure at A (see FIG 9 : 8)
then back up the car to bring points A to the position B
and remeasure. The value obtained at A should be
equal to or greater than B within .0079 inch.
5 As previously described the steering rods are adjust-
able in length. Loosen the clamps and screw in or out
the adjusting sleeves and before tightening the clamp
ensure that the sleeve slot registers w i t h the clamp
joint. With the clamp fully tightened there should
always be a gap between the joint faces.
6 If the steering gear has been re-installed the correct
front wheel toe-in must be set. Then the relay lever pin
nut must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 78
to 85 Ib/ft.
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Front wheel shimmy
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose front wheel bearings
4 Wheels out of balance
5 Loose steering linkage connections
6 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
7 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
(b) Hard steering
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(c) Hard turning when stationary
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
102
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
4 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms
5 Unequal brake adjustment
6 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(e) Rattles
1 Loose steering linkage connections
2 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
3 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
4 Lack of lubrication
( f ) Loose steering
1 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
2 Loose steering linkage connections
3 Loose steering gear mountings
4 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(g) Jerky steering
1 Incorrect front wheel alignment
2 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Loose steering linkage connections
5 Loose or incorrect fitting of worm to sector
(h) Side-to-side wander
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose steering linkage connections
4 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
5 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
6 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arm
7 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(i) Tyre squeal on turns
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect wheel alignment
3 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms

10:9 Brake fluid reservoir
The reservoir is located in the front compartment to the
side of the fuel tank as shown in FIG 10:9. Should it be
necessary to detach the fluid outlet line from the reservoir
the outlet hole must be blanked off using a tapered
wooden peg of suitable length so that the cap may be
replaced to prevent the ingress of foreign matter into
the reservoir and the absorbtion of moisture, oil or petrol
vapours which would alter the properties of the hydraulic
fluid.
A special filter is fitted into the top of the reservoir
through which all fluid used for topping-up the reservoir
must pass to ensure utmost inner cleanliness of the
hydraulic system.
10:10 Bleeding the system
This is not a routine maintenance operation and is only
necessary if air has entered the hydraulic system because
parts have been dismantled or because the f l u i d level in
the reservoir has dropped so low that air has been drawn
into the main feed pipe to the master cylinders.
1 Fill the reservoir w i t h Fiat 'Blue Label' hydraulic fluid.
During the bleeding operation fluid will be used and
constant topping-up of the supply reservoir will be
needed. If this is not done it is possible for air to enter
the master cylinder main feed pipe which will nullify
the operation and necessitate a fresh start.
2 Attach a length of rubber or plastic tubing to the
bleeder screw on the rear wheel cylinder furthermost
from the master cylinder. Immerse the free end of the
tube in a small volume of hydraulic brake fluid in a
clean jar.
3 Open the bleed screw one turn and get a second
operator to press down slowly on the brake pedal. After
a full stroke let the pedal return without assistance,
pause a moment and repeat the d o w n stroke. At first
there will be air bubbles issuing from the bleed tube,
but when fluid alone is ejected, hold the pedal firmly
down on the floor panel and tighten the bleed screw.
Repeat this operation on the other rear brake and then
repeat the operation on the two front brakes.
4 On completion, top-up the fluid in the reservoir to the
correct level. Discard all dirty fluid. If fluid is perfectly
clean, let it stand for twenty four hours to become
clear of air bubbles before using it again.
10:11 Hand parking brake
Normally with the new 500 Sedan model automatic
brake adjusting device, adjustment of the rear brakes
will take up excessive handbrake travel.
If there is excessive travel on the handbrake of the
Sedan model at any time, or in the case of Station Wagon
model even after the rear brakes have been manually
adjusted, suspect worn brake shoe linings or stretched
handbrake cables. Examine the linings and fit replace-
ment shoes if necessary. Check the action of the hand
parking brake again and if there is still too much travel
before the brakes are applied it is permissible to take up as
follows:
1 It is essential to ensure that the rear shoes are correctly
adjusted as described in Section 10:2.
2 Apply the hand parking brake lever until the pawl
engages with the ratchet at the second notch.
F500
FIG 10:11 An exploded view showing the components of
the tandem master cylinder
3 Jack up the rear of t h e vehicle and place on firmly
based stands.
4 Locate the cable adjusting nuts as shown in FIG
10:10 and adjust these until it is just possible to turn
the road wheels by heavy hand pressure. It is important
that both wheels offer the same resistance to turning
to obtain correctly balanced braking.
5 Return the lever to the OFF position and check that
both wheels are quite free to rotate. If a brake tends to
bind, remove the wheel and brake drum and check
the brake shoe pull-off spring is correctly fitted and
that the lever return spring and operating lever are
functioning correctly. Also check for suspected
seizure of the wheel cylinder. When the fault has
been rectified refit the drum. Readjust and recheck.
Removing the hand parking brake cable:
1 Chock the front wheels and release the handbrake.
Raise t h e rear of the vehicle and place on firmly based
stands.
2 Disconnect the cables from the operating levers on
each rear brake unit. Release each cable from its body
mounted bracket.
3 Inside the car, remove the rear seat and the seat belt
fitting from the floor. As necessary, remove the centre
console and the carpet to give access to the cover plate
on the centre tunnel and remove it.
4 Remove the handbrake lever assembly, detach the
cable compensator and pull the cables through the
holes in the box panel.
5 Reassembly is the reverse procedure to removal.
Ensure t h a t the cable is well lubricated and finally
readjust as previously described.
10:12 The dual circuit braking system
This is used on later model cars. A tandem master
cylinder provides t w o entirely separate hydraulic circuits,
one for the front and one for the rear brakes. The
components of the master cylinder are shown in the
exploded view of FIG 1 0 : 1 1 . The principle of operation is
quite straightforward and easy to understand.
169

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading

indicates a break in the cable from the generator to
regulator. Repeat the test on terminal 67. Finally,
remove the temporary link from the generator. If the
readings are correct, test the regulator as described in
Section 11:5.
Removing generator:
1 Disconnect the leads from the generator.
2 Remove the drive belt as previously described.
3 Release t h e rear mounting bracket at the side of the
power unit.
4 Remove the air cooling ducting from around the fan
and generator area and lift away the unit.
5 Release the blower from the end of the armature shaft
and finally, the mounting bolts from the air ducting.
Dismantling generator:
1 Release the pulley self-locking nut and slide the pulley
off the armature shaft.
2 Remove the t w o Woodruff keys on armature shaft.
3 Unscrew the t w o through bolt nuts and pull out the
bolts.
4 Partially remove the commutator end head to the point
where the brushes are. s t i l l seating on the commutator.
Using a piece of hooked wire relieve the load of the
springs on the brushes by arranging the spring ends
on the brush sides. The brushes will be locked in their
holders and cannot be chipped by striking against the
armature shaft during the commutator end head
removal.
5 Gently ease the commutator and fan end heads apart
and, slide out the armature.
Servicing brushes:
Lift the brushes up in the boxes and hold them in that
position by letting each brush spring bear on the side of
its brush. Fit the commutator end bracket over the
commutator end of the armature shaft and release the
brushes by hooking up the springs using a thin screw
driver. Hold back each spring in turn and move the brush
by pulling gently on the flexible connector. If the brush
moves sluggishly remove it and polish the sides using a
smooth file. Before this operation is actually carried out it
is suggested that the brush is marked before removal so
that it is replaced in its original working position.
inch,The minimum permissible length of a brush is
so renew any t h a t are less than this figure. Test the brush
springs using a spring tension scale. New springs should
have a tension of 1.3 to 1.6 Ib. In service this value could
fall slightly before performance is affected. Always bed in
new brushes by wrapping fine sandpaper round the
commutator, pressing down on the brush and rotating
the commutator under it, or draw the paper t o o and f r o .
If new brushes are fitted always fit genuine Fiat replace-
ments.
Servicing the commutator:
A commutator in good condition should be smooth and
free from pitting or signs of the segments burning. Clean
with a rag moistened in petrol. If necessary, polish using
a fine glasspaper whilst rotating the armature. Never use
emerycloth.
If the commutator is badly worn it may be skimmed
using a centre lathe. Use a high rotational speed and take
F500113
FIG 11 :3 Components of generator
Key to Fig 11 : 3 1 Terminal 51 2 Bearing outer ring
retainment terminal nut 3 Commutator end head 4 Brushes
5 Terminal 67 6 Frame 7 Blower end head
8 Bearing retainer nuts and screws 9 Pulley retainment nut
10 Pulley 11 Head mounting tie rods and nuts
12 Armature 13 Blower retainment nut
FIG 11 :4 Commutator end head of generator DSV
90.12.16.3 S
a light cut using a sharp tool. Remove only enough metal
to clean up the commutator face and then polish with
fine glasspaper. To undercut the insulation between the
segments, it is suggested that a hacksaw blade is ground
on its sides until it is the thickness of the insulation and
carefully work between each pair of segments until the
insulation has been cut to a depth of .0394 inch below the
surface.
A thorough visual inspection may determine the cause
of armature failure. Breaks in armature windings cause
burnt commutator segments. Short-circuited windings
are discoloured by overheating, with badly burnt
commutator segments.

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement