lift FIAT 500 1972 1.G Owner's Manual

CHAPTER 9
THE STEERING SYSTEM
9 : 5 Relay lever and support
9 : 6 Steering rods
9 : 7 Front wheel toe-in
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis 9:1 Description
9 : 2 Steering wheel removal and refitting
9 : 3 Steering box removal and refitting
9 : 4 Steering box dismantling and reassembly
9:1 Description
The steering gear fitted to the new 500 range of
vehicles is of the worm screw and sector type with a
steering ratio of 1:13. The steering gearbox is located on
the front lefthand side of the dash wall on the scuttle as
shown in FIG 9:1. The steering gear comprises a pitman
arm and relay lever pivoting on a pin supported on the
body. A central track rod connects the pitman arm to the
relay lever. T w o track rods connect the pitman arm and
relay lever to the knuckle arms.
9:2 Steering wheel removal and refitting
To remove the steering wheel proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the battery positive terminal clamp and
remove the horn control from the steering wheel.
2 Remove the cable from the push button seating and the
cable insulation sleeve.
3 Using a suitably sized box spanner or Fiat wrench
A.8279 unscrew the steering wheel to shaft nut as
shown in FIG 9:2.
4 Using the palm of the hands against the back of the
steering wheel rim gently tap the steering wheel
forwards so releasing it from the inner shaft.
F50097 5 Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling.
Care should be taken to ensure that the front wheels
are located in the straight ahead position when the
steering wheel is being replaced otherwise the steering
wheel spokes will not be correctly positioned.
9 : 3 Steering box removal and refitting
To remove the steering box from the vehicle proceed
as follows:
1 From inside the vehicle remove the steering column
clamp bolt 6 (see FIG 9 : 3) after flattening the lock-
washer 7.
2 From the underside of the vehicle remove the t w o
tie rod locking nuts from the pitman arm and then using
Fiat tool A.46006 or a suitable t w o leg puller withdraw
the pins from the seats.
3 Remove the three nuts holding the steering box to the
body panel. Ease out the worm screw from the
steering shaft and lift away the steering box.
4 To refit the steering box is the reverse procedure to
dismantling. The steering box to body mounting nuts
should be tightened to a torque wrench setting of
14 Ib/ft to 18 Ib/ft.

RIGHT HAND TIE ROD
RELAY LEVER SUPPORTINTERMEDIATE TIE ROD!
STEERING BOX!
LEFT HAND TIE ROD
FIG 9 :1 Steering box, idler member and steering linkage arrangement on vehicle
FIG 9 : 2 Securing steering wheel mounting nut
Key
to Fig 9:2(Tightening torque: 29 to 36 Ib ft)
9 : 4 Steering box dismantling and reassembly
1 Remove the steering gear housing cover complete
with the adjusting screw and locking nut and drain the
oil from the unit.
2 Using Fiat puller A.4005.1.5 or a universal t w o leg
puller remove the pitman arm.
3 Remove the cotter pin from the lower thrust bearing
adjusting nut and unscrew this nut.
4 Remove the sealing ring at the sector shaft lower end
and using Fiat tool A.8065 loosen the eccentric bush
adjuster plate bolt and remove both the bolt and the
adjusting plate. Also remove the upper sealing ring.
98
5 Lift out the sector together with the upper thrust
washer and shims.
6 Remove the steering worm screw by pulling out from
below. The two bearing inner rings will remain on the
worm screw whilst the lower bearing outer ring will
remain in the housing.
7 Remove the oil seal using Fiat tool A.10110 followed
by the worm screw upper bearing outer ring using
Fiat tool A.66040 or a suitably sized drift.
Inspection:
1 Carefully inspect the sector teeth and the worm screw
threads to see that there are no signs of seizure,
indentations or scoring. Check that the contact faces
indicate that meshing between the two parts is taking
place at the centre.
2 Check the clearance between the eccentric bush 5
(see FIG 9 : 5) and the worm sector 11 which must not
exceed .0039 inch. These items have an initial
assembly clearance of .00 to .0016 inch. It should be
noted that if the eccentric bushing to sector shaft
clearance exceeds .0039 inch a new bushing should
be installed and its inner face reamed using Fiat
reamer U.0360.20.
3 Ensure that the worm screw is not distorted. The
permissible out of true is .0019 inch.
Adjustment:
1 If the backlash between the worm screw and the
sector is excessive it should be adjusted by first dis-
connecting the pitman arm and its relevant seal.
Remove the screw 7 (see FIG 9 : 5) fixing the abut-
ment plate 6. Rotate the eccentric bush 5 by the
adjustment plate and move the sector in towards the
worm screw. The adjustment plate should be secured
again using the second fixing hole.
Should the adjustment plate already be fixed in the
second hole remove the plate from the bush and
rotate one or more serrations and re-secure.

2 Using Fiat puller A.46023 as shown in FIG 8 : 9
remove the wheel grease cap.
3 Using a universal t w o leg puller or Fiat puller A.40005
together w i t h items 1 and 9 remove the wheel hub/
drum assembly having first extracted the splitpin if
fitted and released the hub retaining nut (see FIG
8:10).
Dismantling brake unit:
1 Using a compressed air jet thoroughly clean all com-
ponents of the brake assembly.
2 Make a note of the location of the shoe return springs
and gently ease the shoes away from the brake
backplate (see FIG 10:2).
3 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the rear of t h e
wheel cylinder and remove the t w o cylinder retaining
bolts. Lift away the hydraulic cylinder.
Brake shoe lining:
Check the lining thickness and if found to be exces-
sively reduced service replacement shoes must be fitted.
The minimum allowable brake lining thickness is .059
inch.
Thoroughly check the linings for signs of oil or grease
which, if evident, the shoes must be renewed and the
drums and oil seals thoroughly inspected for the cause
of oil ingress and the cause remedied before reassembly.
Do not fit odd brake shoes and do not mix materials or
unbalanced braking will result.
Do not allow grease, oil or paint to contact the friction
linings.
Brake drums:
Whilst servicing the brakes, thoroughly inspect the
drums for scoring, ovality or distortion as well as inspect-
ing for minute hair line cracks. The drums may be refaced
by using a centre lathe and finally finishing by lapping
the drums to smooth out possible tool marks. The
maximum permissible oversize beyond the nominal drum
diameter of 6.702 to 6.712 inch is .039 inch. This limit
must never be exceeded otherwise the strength of the
drum will be impaired or a reduction in braking efficiency
caused by the increase of shoe expansion travel and the
consequent diminished contact pressure.
No brake adjustment will be required on the new 500
Saloon models after the drum has been reassembled as
the self-adjusting device will accommodate for the shoe
position to the new drum diameter during the first
operation of the brake pedal.
Reassembly of front brakes:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. Ensure
that the pull-off springs are correctly fitted to the holes in
the webs of the brake shoes and that the shoes register
correctly in the slotted ends of the pistons and the
side
mounting plate.
Upon assembly of the hub and brake drum assembly
liberally pack the space between the two bearings w i t h
Fiat MR grease, and remount the hub according to the
instructions in Chapter 8.
F500
FIG 10:3 Section view of left side f r o n t brake assembly
(500 Station Wagon)
Key to Fig 10:3 1 Wheel cylinder 2 Shoe return spring
3 Adjusting cams 4 Shoe guide pin 5 Shoe with lining
6 Drum 7 Housing flange
BRAKE SHOE
ADJUSTING DEVICE
SHOE WEDGE
SELF
WHEEL CYLINDER
SHOE RETURN SPRING
PARKING BRAKE
SHOE CONTROL
RETURN SPRINGS
LEVER
SHOE LOCK PLATEBRAKE SHOES
SHOE RETURN SPRING
SHOE MOUNTING PLATE
FIG 1 0:4 Right rear wheel brake assembly (500 Sedan)
10:4 Rear brakes
Rear brake drum removal:
1 Remove the wheel trims and carefully slacken the road
wheel retaining bolts. Using a garage hydraulic jack
raise the rear of t h e vehicle and place on firmly based
stands. Remove the road wheels.
2 Remove the four drum to hub retaining bolts and
spring washers and carefully withdraw the drum from
the backplate assembly.
Dismantling brake unit:
1 Using a compressed air jet thoroughly clean all
components of the brake assembly.
105

FIG 10:5 Section view of right side rear brake assembly
(500 Station Wagon)
FIG 10:6 Sectional view of a self-adjusting device for
automatic brake shoe-to-drum clearance take-up (500
Sedan)
Key to Fig 1 0 : 6 1 Pin 2 Friction washers 3 Load spring
4 Bushing 5 Shoe 6 Self-adjustment slot 7 Stud
2 Make a note of the location of the shoe return springs
and gently ease t h e shoes away from the backplate
(see FIG 10:4)
3 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the rear of t h e
wheel cylinder and also the shoe operating lever return
spring, the pin, washer and clevis from the lever so
releasing the handbrake inner operating cable.
4 Remove the t w o cylinder retaining bolts and lift away
the hydraulic cylinder.
106
Brake shoe linings:
Refer t o Section 10:3.
Brake drums:
Refer to Section 10:3.
Reassembly of rear brakes:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. Ensure
that the pull-off springs are correctly fitted to the holes
in the webs of the brake shoes and that the shoes
register in the slotted ends of the pistons and the side
mounting plate.
Carefully retract the position of the brake shoes and
ease t h e d r u m towards the hub ensuring that the four
bolt holes line up correctly. Replace the four bolts
together with their spring washers, reconnect the hand
brake cable. Refit road wheel and wheel trim.
10:5 Master cylinder
Operation:
Hydraulic fluid is admitted to the master cylinder
through hole 8 (see FIG 10:7), it seeps through the gap
between the valve carrier ring 17 and the master cylinder
dowel and flows through the valve carrier ring holes 15
so reaching the hydraulic lines, therefore filling the
system w i t h fluid. When the brake pedal is depressed the
plunger is moved forwards by the pushrod 12. This
forward action of the plunger 9 and valve carrier 17 brings
the valve 16 to rest against the valve front face. The
forward movement is continued so causing the valve ring
16 to pass over the compensation hole 5 and cutting off
communication with the fluid reservoirs. From this point
compression of the hydraulic fluid commences.
Hydraulic fluid acting on the front and inner faces of
the valve enables perfect valve sealing even under high
operation pressures. When the pressure reaches the fluid
in the wheel cylinders (see FIG 10:8) , it forces the
plungers 3 apart and through the plungers stems so
operating the brake shoes.
After releasing the brake pedal, the combined action
of the brake shoe and master cylinder plunger return
springs sends the fluid back to the master cylinder and
all parts resume their original position. The connection
between the hydraulic
system and the reservoir is
restored.
As there are no conventional valves fitted in the master
cylinder and the communication orifice between the
system a n d the reservoir is amply dimensioned the
bleeding operation is very straightforward.
Master cylinder removal:
1 Disconnect the stoplight cables from the pressure
operated switch.
2 Using a tapered w o o d plug of suitable size blank t h e
hole in the brake f l u i d reservoir.
3 Screw out the four front and rear cylinder brake fluid
delivery line connections at the master cylinder.
4 Remove the t w o master cylinder retaining nuts and
spring washers and carefully ease the hydraulic
cylinder from the body.

indicates a break in the cable from the generator to
regulator. Repeat the test on terminal 67. Finally,
remove the temporary link from the generator. If the
readings are correct, test the regulator as described in
Section 11:5.
Removing generator:
1 Disconnect the leads from the generator.
2 Remove the drive belt as previously described.
3 Release t h e rear mounting bracket at the side of the
power unit.
4 Remove the air cooling ducting from around the fan
and generator area and lift away the unit.
5 Release the blower from the end of the armature shaft
and finally, the mounting bolts from the air ducting.
Dismantling generator:
1 Release the pulley self-locking nut and slide the pulley
off the armature shaft.
2 Remove the t w o Woodruff keys on armature shaft.
3 Unscrew the t w o through bolt nuts and pull out the
bolts.
4 Partially remove the commutator end head to the point
where the brushes are. s t i l l seating on the commutator.
Using a piece of hooked wire relieve the load of the
springs on the brushes by arranging the spring ends
on the brush sides. The brushes will be locked in their
holders and cannot be chipped by striking against the
armature shaft during the commutator end head
removal.
5 Gently ease the commutator and fan end heads apart
and, slide out the armature.
Servicing brushes:
Lift the brushes up in the boxes and hold them in that
position by letting each brush spring bear on the side of
its brush. Fit the commutator end bracket over the
commutator end of the armature shaft and release the
brushes by hooking up the springs using a thin screw
driver. Hold back each spring in turn and move the brush
by pulling gently on the flexible connector. If the brush
moves sluggishly remove it and polish the sides using a
smooth file. Before this operation is actually carried out it
is suggested that the brush is marked before removal so
that it is replaced in its original working position.
inch,The minimum permissible length of a brush is
so renew any t h a t are less than this figure. Test the brush
springs using a spring tension scale. New springs should
have a tension of 1.3 to 1.6 Ib. In service this value could
fall slightly before performance is affected. Always bed in
new brushes by wrapping fine sandpaper round the
commutator, pressing down on the brush and rotating
the commutator under it, or draw the paper t o o and f r o .
If new brushes are fitted always fit genuine Fiat replace-
ments.
Servicing the commutator:
A commutator in good condition should be smooth and
free from pitting or signs of the segments burning. Clean
with a rag moistened in petrol. If necessary, polish using
a fine glasspaper whilst rotating the armature. Never use
emerycloth.
If the commutator is badly worn it may be skimmed
using a centre lathe. Use a high rotational speed and take
F500113
FIG 11 :3 Components of generator
Key to Fig 11 : 3 1 Terminal 51 2 Bearing outer ring
retainment terminal nut 3 Commutator end head 4 Brushes
5 Terminal 67 6 Frame 7 Blower end head
8 Bearing retainer nuts and screws 9 Pulley retainment nut
10 Pulley 11 Head mounting tie rods and nuts
12 Armature 13 Blower retainment nut
FIG 11 :4 Commutator end head of generator DSV
90.12.16.3 S
a light cut using a sharp tool. Remove only enough metal
to clean up the commutator face and then polish with
fine glasspaper. To undercut the insulation between the
segments, it is suggested that a hacksaw blade is ground
on its sides until it is the thickness of the insulation and
carefully work between each pair of segments until the
insulation has been cut to a depth of .0394 inch below the
surface.
A thorough visual inspection may determine the cause
of armature failure. Breaks in armature windings cause
burnt commutator segments. Short-circuited windings
are discoloured by overheating, with badly burnt
commutator segments.

1
791011 8 234
11
10
16,15
14 13
1265
FIG 11:5 Components of starter
Key to Fig 11:5 1 Drive end head 2 Head shield 3 Frame 4 Switch 5 Commutator cover band
6 and 7 Pin and spring for lever 8 8 Starting engagement lever 9 Head shield 10 and 11 Head fixing tie rods and tubes
12 Pinion, complete 13 Starting engagement spring 14 Drive unit sleeve and free wheel hub 15 Armature
16 Commutator end head
Testing field coils:
When tested w i t h an ohmmeter the reading should be
8+.1—.3 ohms. Failing an ohmmeter use a 12-volt
supply and connect it in series w i t h an ammeter across
the field terminal and the yoke or body. The meter should
read approximately 2 amps. If there is no reading the
field coil winding has a break in it. If the reading is much
more than 2 amps or the ohmmeter records at much less
than 8 ohms it shows that field coil insulation has broken
down. Renewal of the field coils is a specialist operation
best left to a service station.
The armature:
Apart from reconditioning the commutator, there is
little which can be done to the armature itself. Never try
to straighten a bent shaft and do not machine the arma-
ture core. Armature windings are tested w i t h equipment
normally not available to the car owner. The only check
for a suspected faulty armature which the owner can do
is to substitute an armature which is known to be
satisfactory.
Generator bearings:
1 Commutator end head bearings. Remove the ball-
bearing outer race stop bracket mounting screw and
nut, ease o u t t h e stop brackets and the ballbearings.
2 Fan end head bearing. Remove the ballbearing retainer
mounting screw nuts and ease o u t t h e retainers and
the seals. Using a suitably sized drift remove the ball-
bearing.
114Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling
in both cases.
Reassembly and refitting the generator:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. The
following points should however be noted.
1 The commutator end head ballbearing outer race stop
bracket mounting screw nut must be tightened to a
torque wrench setting of .80 Ib ft.
2 The pulley and fan-to-generator armature shaft self-
locking nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench
setting of 14.5 Ib ft.
3 To assemble the commutator end bracket to the yoke,
partially withdraw the brushes and trap them in this
position by letting the springs bear on the sides of the
brushes. Fit the bracket to the armature shaft and when
it is about 1/2 inch from the yoke face, lift the springs
using a thin screwdriver or a piece of hooked wire and
this will let the brushes drop onto the commutator.
Check that the springs now bear correctly on the tops
of the brushes and push the bracket fully home.
4 Pack all ballbearings with Fiat Jota 3 grease or an
equivalent grade grease.
11:4 The starter motor
Operation:
When operating the starter hand lever through a
flexible coupling a lever is operated (see FIG 11:5)
which controls the pinion engagement with the flywheel.
As the lever completes its movement it closes the starter

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement

parking position the trouble will be found in the sliding
sector which fails to open the switch D (see FIG
11 :16) . Check by removing the four motor cover
mounting screws and uncover the sliding sector. If
possible suitably bend the sector to bring it against
into contact with the rod tip of switch D.
3 If the automatic parking of the blades does not occur
when the switch lever is fully depressed to the parking
position but the motor stops when the switch is
operated the cause of the trouble is that the switch D
is not closing and consequently no current is flowing
between the terminals C and INT. This will probably
be due to dirt lodged between the movable contact
and the fixed contacts of switch D. Thoroughly wash
the components with petrol and if necessary reface
the contacts using a very fine file.
4 Should the motor unit be noisy in operation although
still operating reliably the noise is probably due to the
reduction gear operation, whereby the pinion and
worm are excessively worn or a tooth chipped. The
motor unit must be renewed as motor unit parts are
not available in service.
5 If the switch lever is pushed upwards to the 'on'
position or depressed downwards to the Parking
position and the wiper is still inoperative thoroughly
check all terminal connections for tightness and
cables for damage which if all appear to be correct the
failure of the wiper to operate indicates an internal
fault of the motor unit which
should be repaired or
renewed as necessary.
Removal and refitting the motor:
Remove the wiper arms and the electrical connections
to the motor. Dismantling is a straightforward operation
providing that as all items are removed so they are
inspected and a note made of their locations. However,
reassembly requires more care and the following
procedure should be adopted.
1 Mount the wiper unit onto the body by fully tightening
the nuts fixing the pivots onto which the arms are
fitted. Ensure t h a t the rubber sealing bushes between
the pivots and body are correctly assembled to prevent
water ingress. Slightly lubricate with glycerine.
2 Secure the mounting bracket lower edge to the body
by means of the special square bracket. It is important
not to distort the mounting bracket and ease of
assembly is ensured by elongated holes in the square
bracket. By suitable adjustment the linkages will not
be subjected to distortion or abnormal stresses during
operation.
3 Fit the motor unit to the mounting bracket tightening
the screws and reassemble the main link to the pivot
lever. Ensure t h a t the l o c k i n g of the fastener on the
pivot lever is secure so that it does not become loose
during operation.
4 Remake all the electrical connections and run the
motor for a short time whilst checking all the switch
positions including the automatic parking. It is at this
position that the wiper blades and arms are assembled
to the wiper mechanism.
5 Onto the pivots, install the shims, snap ring, wiper arm,
plain washer and lockwasher. Fully tighten the nuts
with the wiper arms in the parked position.
F500
FIG 11 :17 Headlamp removal
Key to Fig 11:17 1 Screw for vertical beam adjustment
2 Screw for horizontal beam adjustment 3 Headlamp
locating hook 4 Headlamp retaining ring and spring
5 Lamp unit 6 Bulb spring retainers 7 Bulb
8 Junction block
6 Ensure that the wiper arms can be tilted 100 deg.
downwards without striking against the cowl or front
compartment lid. Also ensure that the blade pressure
on the glass is 10.6 to 12.3 oz.
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
Description:
The lighting system comprises t w o headlights with
double filament bulbs of 45 watts for main beam and
40 watts for dip. Headlight control is operated through
the outer light switch below the steering wheel after the
toggle switch at the centre of the instrument panel has
been operated.
A double filament bulb for the front parking and
direction indicator lights is located below the headlights:
alternatively, the parking light may be incorporated in the
headlamp unit. The bulb is of 5 watt rating for the parking
lights and 20 watts for the direction indicator lights.
Two side direction indicator lamps are fitted with 2.5
w a t t b u l b s . The rear number plate is illuminated by a 5
watt bulb operated from the main lighting circuit.
Two three purpose rear light units are fitted and are
provided with a one single filament 20 watt bulb for the
direction indicator and one double filament bulb of 5 watt
rating for the parking circuit and 20 watt for stoplights.
Headlamp removal:
The headlamp on earlier cars may be removed from the
front panel by slightly depressing the lens and rotating the
unit counterclockwise through 15 deg. on later cars a
retaining spring is unhooked inside the front compart-
ment and the lamp can then be lifted out (FIG 11 :17).
121

Inner panels:
Imitation leather-lined masonite trim panels are fitted
to all versions of the new 500' models. The panels are
secured in the housing below the door window by means
of four stiff clips located at the top and seven spring clips
located at the bottom equally spaced around the panel
border. The fasteners are located in holes in the door
framework inner flange. The door framework has a plate
which should be bent downwards onto the trim panel
once it has been installed. This will ensure correct seating
of the trim panel in the door housing.
When the door trim panel is being reassembled ensure
that the tarred felt pad is cemented correctly on the door
inner flange so that any water that may seep in through to
the door interior from the window rubber weather strips
may be kept away from the trim panel which would
otherwise cause distortion and rapid deterioration.
12:4 Door handles and locks
The doors are provided with locks which are operated
by handles either from inside or outside the vehicle.
Removal of the lock is a straightforward operation but
upon reassembly the following procedure should be
followed:
1 Mount the handle assembly from the outside and
insert the washer onto the stud. Screw in the nut several
turns to allow correct handle-to-lock mating on final
fitting.
2 Arrange the locking handle dog so that it is horizontally
positioned and tighten the mounting nut.
3 Mount the lock to the door panel and secure w i t h three
screws and washers.
4 Fit the plate w i t h the t w o rubber guide blocks fastening
by the t w o screws.
Striker plates are fitted with shim adjustment to the
door pillars and are secured by three screws.
12:5 Removing window regulator and door glass
Window regulator:
Description:
The window regulator unit is of the lever and gear
control type which transmits crank movement to the
lifting lever using high ratio gears. When the operating
handle is rotated it rotates a pinion mounted on its shaft
which is in mesh w i t h a gear on the hub of which is
mounted a second pinion that meshes with the lever
toothed sector (refer to FIG 1 2 : 3) . At the end of the lever
a pin fitting locates in a guide rail mounted on the
bottom of the glass. When the crank is rotated in one or
other direction the glass is either lifted or lowered.
Regulator removal:
1 Depress the door lining panel so that the crank key may
be located. Remove the key and the crank handle.
2 Using a wide blade screwdriver prise off the trim panel
by inserting the blade between the panel and the door
frame taking care not to scratch the door paint.
3 Remove the intermediate protection lining.
F500129
FIG 12:3 Lefthand side door window regulator, viewed
from car interior
FIG 12:4 Location of window regulator in lefthand side
door panel housing
4 Release the screws securing the window regulator
to the door. Carefully tilt the regulator so as to dis-
engage the lever pin from the guide on the bottom of
the glass and lift away the regulator assembly.
Regulator reassembly:
To ensure satisfactory regulator operation carefully
lubricate the gears and the lever pin guide and also
ensure that the glass slides freely in its channels. To

NUT AND JAM NUT FOR
ADJUSTING PIN FRICTION
FIG 12:5 Ventilation panel lower pivot
FIG 12:6 Removal of windshield glass. Simply press
out as shown
reassemble the regulator to the door is the reverse
procedure to dismantling. The following points should
however, be noted:
1 Before the lining is refitted to the door panel ensure
that the regulator operates correctly. Ensure t h a t the
glass moves up and down in its channels without
excessive efforts required on the crank handle.
2 Once the lining is glued into place ensure that it
adheres evenly on the door so that the window
regulator operation is not interfered with at a later date
due to the lining becoming detached.
130
FIG 12:7 Positioning the windshield after tilting wiperblades
Door window drop glass and weather strip :
Description:
The door windows are fitted with swivelling front glass
ventilators and a drop rear glass pane. The 'new 500'
convertible is equipped with stationary type window rear
glass which is secured to the door panel by means of t w o
brackets and screws together with spring washers and
nuts.
Removal of door glass:
To remove the door window drop glass proceed as
previously described for removing the regulator assembly,
and t h e n ease forward the front glass guide and then
carefully lift away the glass.
Reassembly:
1 Fit Fiat No. 16 clips equally spaced all along the door
window flange.
2 Install the glass runway by inserting it in the rear and
upper side of the window groove. The runway is
fastened in place by the spring clips.
3 Install the glass runway, complete with the fabric lining
and secure it to the regulator frame on the top side
using self-tapping screws and on the bottom side w i t h
the bracket, screw, plain washer and spring washer.
4 Secure the gear type window regulator to the door
panel using the three screws, three plain washers and
three toothed washers.
5 Refit the window rubber weather strips which are lined
with fabric on both inner faces that touch the glass
pane. Lock the weather strips in place w i t h the Fiat
clips.
6 Replace the metal joint cap.
7 Fit and correctly locate the drop glass complete with
lower rubber weather strip, metal channel and run
plate for sliding travel of window regulator arm.