front FIAT 500 1972 1.G Owner's Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FIAT, Model Year: 1972, Model line: 500, Model: FIAT 500 1972 1.GPages: 128, PDF Size: 9.01 MB
Page 84 of 128

2 Check that the surface of the pin that is in contact with
the camber and castor adjuster shims does not show
any signs of indentation or roughness which could
affect the accuracy of adjustment on reassembly. If
there are any signs of rust or small markings these
should be smoothed out using a file.
3 Inspect the condition of the half arm bushes, the inner
surface of which must not show signs of seizure and
the clearance of the bush to pin must not be greater
than .01 57 inch. Upon initial assembly the fit clearance
is .00059 to .0059 inch. Ensure t h a t the rubber parts
of the bush are not torn, cracked or show signs of
weakness which, if evident, must be renewed.
4 Use Fiat tool A.66058 or a suitably sized drift for
refitting the rubber bushes into the swinging arms.
Upon reassembly it should be observed that the
tightening of the two swinging arms m o u n t i n g nuts 5
(see FIG 8 : 3) , must be carried out whilst keeping
the axis of the swinging arm and the pin hole for the
screws 7 on the same plane otherwise distortion can
occur.
8 : 5 Kingpin housing
1 To remove and replace the 'estendblocks' use Fiat
tool A.66056 as shown in FIG 8 : 8. Ensure t h a t the
'estendblocks' is not worn and that there are no signs
of seizure on its inner surface, or that the rubber has
hardened. Renew if necessary.
2 Check that the kingpin to bush clearance is not
greater than .0079 inch. The clearance when fitted
new is .00063 to .00213 inch. If the clearance is
excessive the t w o bushes must be renewed and also
the kingpin if excessive wear is evident. To remove and
refit the kingpin bushes use Fiat tool A.66016 and
after reassembly the bushes must be accurately
refaced using a reamer set to a diameter of .5912 to
.5922 inch. If considered necessary use Fiat Fixture
C.1004 to check that the kingpin housing has not been
distorted which, if evident, the housing must be
renewed.
3 Whilst the kingpin assembly is being inspected ensure
that the lubrication hole is free to allow the passage of
oil.
4 To prevent incorrect loading of the 'estendblocks' that
is press fitted into the kingpin housing, the housing
to swinging arm pin nut must be tightened with the
parts so arranged that the angle between the swinging
arm plane and the housing axis is approximately
95 deg. as shown in FIG 8:14.
8:6 Steering knuckle and wheel hub
Dismantling:
1 To remove the wheel hub cap use Fiat puller A.46023
as shown in FIG 8 : 9 .
2 Using a universal t w o leg puller or Fiat puller A.40005
together with items 1 and 9 remove the wheel hub/
drum assembly having first extracted the splitpin and
released the hub retaining nut (see FIG 8:10). Later
models have a staked nut w i t h no splitpin. The nut
should be freed with a punch and discarded.
3 Remove the outer roller bearing, the oil seal and the
inner roller bearing outer race from the drum and pull
out the steering knuckle inner roller bearing inner ring
using Fiat puller A.46000
F500PULLER
A.46023
FIG 8 : 9 Removing right front wheel hub cap by
remover A.46023
UNIVERSAL PULLER A. 40005/
FIG 8:10 Removing left front wheel brake drum by
puller A.40005
4 Release the t w o brake to steering knuckle mounting
nuts and remove the complete brake housing flange.
5 To remove the steering knuckle from the kingpin
housing, remove the 'estendblock' from the kingpin
housing using Fiat drift A.66056 or a suitably sized
drift as shown in FIG 8 : 8.
6 Using a suitably sized punch drive the lockpin from the
kingpin, remove the lower plug and slide off the
kingpin. The steering knuckle is then disengaged
together with the snap ring, two thrust washers and a
shoulder ring.
Inspection:
Thoroughly clean all parts and dry using a compressed
air jet and to inspect proceed as follows:
1 Check that the steering knuckle and steering arm show
91
Page 86 of 128

8 : 7 Hydraulic damper:
Description:
The front and rear shock absorbers are of the telescopic
double acting type. Their dampening action takes place
directly on the suspension without the use of any
intermediate linkage. The shock absorber comprises a
cylindrical body formed by to coaxial tubes 14 and 15
(see FIG 8:11), the inner tube acting as the working
cylinder and the outer one as a casing. The fluid reservoir
being located between the two sections. A third outer
cylinder 13 shields the rod 2 from any road dirt.
On the top the cylinder body is enclosed by a bush 1 1 ,
oil seals 5 and 9 and a housing 4. The rod 2 slides through
the seals 5, the upper end is fixed into the vehicle body
floor and its lower end carries the piston 22 on which
rebound 26 and inlet valves 21 are arranged.
The bottom of the shock absorber is closed by a plug
35 with a threaded shank 36 for the shock absorber to be
mounted onto the suspension unit. The cylinder 15 and
carrier plug 32 is mounted with a compensation valve
30 and a compression valve 33. The piston is provided
with two rows of orifices. The internal row is blanked
underneath by the rebound valve which operates
downwards. The external row is blanked by the inlet
valve which opens upwards. Hydraulic shock absorbers
fitted since March 1959 are provided w i t h a vapour
pocket bleeder from the cylinder exterior. The bleeder
device comprises a capillary
hole 12 interconnecting the
inner cylinder 15 with the upper chamber 10 and also a
passage tube 16 from the upper chamber to the fluid
reservoir. Any vapour pockets in the pressure cylinder
are excluded past the capillary hole 12 into the chamber
10 from which they flow downwards during shock
absorber operation through the passage 16 in a light
fluid stream and up to the top of the reservoir with the
reservoir fluid.
Dismantling and inspection:
Normally during service if a shock absorber becomes
weak in operation then a new unit should be fitted.
Should however, it be necessary for the original unit to
be overhauled proceed as follows:
1 Thoroughly clean the outer casing in petrol and blow
dry using a compressed air jet.
2 Firmly clamp the lower shank of the shock absorber
in a vice and telescope upwards the outer casing and
using Fiat wrench A.56024 unscrew the upper
threaded ring 3 (see FIG 8:11).
3 Remove the shock absorber from the vice and carefully
remove the inner cylinder 15 using a screwdriver
inserted in the cylinder bottom chamfer and remove
the lower plug 32 which carries the compression and
compensation valves.
4 Push the rod i n t o the cylinder 15 and clamp the upper
shank in a vice. Unscrew the plug 29, and carefully
remove the piston 22 together with the inlet and
rebound valves. Withdraw the rod 2 from the cylinder
15 and remove the seal gasket, the housing, and
threaded ring. Thoroughly wash all parts in petrol and
carefully blow dry using a c
ompressed air jet. The
following parts should be inspected as follows.
Check that the inlet, rebound and compensation valve
discs are not deformed or show signs of cracking.
F50093 Inspect the surfaces of the piston, the seal ring and the
compression valve to ensure that they are smooth and
hydraulic fluid tight. Check that the rebound and
compression valve springs and upper seal gasket
springs are not broken or weak. Carefully inspect the
t w o seal gaskets for damage or wear and it is recom-
mended that they are renewed upon reassembly.
Check that the rod and the cylinders show no sign of
deformation and that the air pocket evacuating
passage is not blocked. Also check that the capillary
hole 12 is not blocked. Any parts which show signs
of wear or damage must be renewed.
Reassembly:
Reassembly of the shock absorber is the reverse
procedure to dismantling. Special care must be taken
when refilling the shock absorber w i t h Fiat SA1 oil
otherwise its operating characteristics will be altered.
The hydraulic fluid capacity for the front shock
absorbers is .112 imperial quarts.
The hydraulic capacity for the rear shock absorbers is
.088 imperial quarts. Only Fiat—SA1 oil must be
used.
To insert the components into the shock absorber
body proceed as follows:
1 Mount the piston on the rod, and insert the piston and
rod assembly into the cylinder 15 (see FIG 8:11).
2 Push the piston against the bush 11 and then very
carefully pour the correct amount of hydraulic fluid
up to about j inch from the edge.
3 Press f i t t h e plug 32 and pour the remaining fluid into
the casing 14.
4 Insert the cylinder 15 into the casing 14 and tighten
the upper threaded ring 3.
8 :8 Front suspension assembly and installation
1 Attach Fiat fixture A.66061 to the springs as shown
in FIG 8:12 and load it using the centre screw on the
fixture until the index 'Nuova 500' appears below
the crossbeam lower edge. It is in this position the
spring attains the full static load setting as on the FIG 8:13 Installing right front wheel hub cap by tool
A.66059TOOL
A.66059
Page 88 of 128

VERTICAL LINE DB
S
EB
OIL SUMPF
GF
FIG 8:16 Castor, camber angles
6 Insert the swinging arm pin onto the two studs that
are welded to the body sides so as to support the
front suspension and wheel assembly.
7 Reconnect the kingpin housing to the spring eye by
inserting the bolt and tightening the self-locking nut
to a torque wrench setting of 28.9 Ib/ft. It is important
that during this operation the spring is always kept
in the 'set' position by fixture A.66061 so as to
ensure correct assembly and prevent excessive strain
on the 'estendblocks'.
8 Slide off the swinging arm and insert the spacers and
shims S (see FIG 8:16) onto the studs ensuring
that the resulting thickness is the same as was found
during dismantling. Reattach the swinging arm.
Screw on the nuts securing the pin to the body and
tighten to a torque wrench setting of 28.9 Ib/ft.
9 Refit the shock absorber securing it to the kingpin
housing and to the body inserting the plain washer
between the rubber pad and the toothed washer.
10 Carefully remove Fiat fixture A.66061, connect the
steering rods, hydraulic brake pipes and refit wheels.
Remove the wooden plug from the brake fluid tank
inlet opening. Carefully raise the vehicle using a
garage hydraulic jack, remove the axle stands and
lower slowly to the ground.
11 When both left- and righthand suspension units have
been refitted to the vehicle the front end steering
geometry must be checked and adjusted.
8:9 Steering geometry
Checking of the front wheel geometry is necessary
95
F500
if either excessive tyre wear or irregular steering per-
formance is noticed or if the front suspension assembly
has been dismantled for repair. The values for the front
end setting under a normal static load normally con-
sidered to comprise four passengers should be as
follows:
Camber angle — 1 d e g . ± 20'
Castor angle — 9 deg.± 1 deg.
The camber angle shown in FIG 8:14 and the castor
angle shown in FIG 8 : 1 6 adjustments are performed by
inserting shims S (see FIG 8 : 1 6 ) between the swinging
arm pin and the spacers on the studs that are welded to
the body at points D and E (see FIG 8:16). Shims .0197
inch thick are supplied in service to enable the castor and
camber angles to be adjusted.
It is suggested that the castor and camber angles are
checked at the local agents as specialised equipment is
necessary for completion of these checks.
Adjustment of castor angle:
Slacken the t w o nuts securing the swinging arm pin
to the body and proceed as follows:
1 If the castor angle requires to be increased (see FIG
8:16) move the shims S from the rear screw E to the
front screw D.
2 If the castor angle requires to be reduced (see FIG
8:16) move the shims from the front screw D to the
rear screw E.
Adjustment of camber angle:
Slacken the t w o nuts securing the swinging arm pin DE
A
C
Page 89 of 128

to the body and proceed as follows:
1 If the camber angle requires to be increased (see FIG
8:16) add the same number of shims S on both
screws D and E.
2 If the camber angle requires to be reduced (see FIG
8:16) remove the same number of shims from both
screws D and E.
The addition or removal of shims at the t w o points D
and E permits camber adjustment to be made without
any disturbing of the castor angle.
8:10 Modifications
Checking and adjusting castor and camber angles:
When checking the castor and camber angle the
static loading should be such that the distance between
the semi-elliptic spring mountings G (see FIG 8:16)
and the floor level to be approximately 6.81 inches, also a
distance between the lowermost portion of the sump and
the floor level of approximately 6.14 inch for the Model
500D. For the 500 Station Wagon version the distance
between centre rear bracket for jacking-up the vehicle
and the floor level should be approximately 8.90 inches.
All other front wheel alignment specifications are the
same as for the remaining 500 saloon models.
8:11 Fault diagnosis
(a) Wheel bounce
1 Tyre casing faulty
2 Uneven tyre pressures
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Semi-elliptic mounting spring worn5 Weak or seized shock absorber
6 Wheel rim or tyre misaligned
(b) Suspension noise
1 Lack of lubrication
2 Noisy or inoperative shock absorbers
3 Worn or loose wheel bearings
(c) Pull to one side
1 Low or uneven tyre pressures
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Suspension arms distorted
4 Inoperative shock absorbers
5 Brakes binding
(d) Excessive t y r e wear
1 Incorrect tyre rotation during servicing periods
2 Incorrect camber angle
3 Incorrect toe-in
4 Incorrect tyre inflation
5 Excessive play at wheel bearings
6 Wheel wobble
7 Stiff suspension arms
8 Brakes out of adjustment
(e) Wheel wobble
1 Uneven tyre pressures
2 Loose or worn wheel bearings
3 Inoperative shock absorbers
4 Loose steering knuckle or kingpin housing
5 Incorrect front wheel alignment
6 Control arm rubber bushings, or kingpin housing and
semi-elliptic spring 'estendblock' worn
96
Page 90 of 128

CHAPTER 9
THE STEERING SYSTEM
9 : 5 Relay lever and support
9 : 6 Steering rods
9 : 7 Front wheel toe-in
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis 9:1 Description
9 : 2 Steering wheel removal and refitting
9 : 3 Steering box removal and refitting
9 : 4 Steering box dismantling and reassembly
9:1 Description
The steering gear fitted to the new 500 range of
vehicles is of the worm screw and sector type with a
steering ratio of 1:13. The steering gearbox is located on
the front lefthand side of the dash wall on the scuttle as
shown in FIG 9:1. The steering gear comprises a pitman
arm and relay lever pivoting on a pin supported on the
body. A central track rod connects the pitman arm to the
relay lever. T w o track rods connect the pitman arm and
relay lever to the knuckle arms.
9:2 Steering wheel removal and refitting
To remove the steering wheel proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the battery positive terminal clamp and
remove the horn control from the steering wheel.
2 Remove the cable from the push button seating and the
cable insulation sleeve.
3 Using a suitably sized box spanner or Fiat wrench
A.8279 unscrew the steering wheel to shaft nut as
shown in FIG 9:2.
4 Using the palm of the hands against the back of the
steering wheel rim gently tap the steering wheel
forwards so releasing it from the inner shaft.
F50097 5 Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling.
Care should be taken to ensure that the front wheels
are located in the straight ahead position when the
steering wheel is being replaced otherwise the steering
wheel spokes will not be correctly positioned.
9 : 3 Steering box removal and refitting
To remove the steering box from the vehicle proceed
as follows:
1 From inside the vehicle remove the steering column
clamp bolt 6 (see FIG 9 : 3) after flattening the lock-
washer 7.
2 From the underside of the vehicle remove the t w o
tie rod locking nuts from the pitman arm and then using
Fiat tool A.46006 or a suitable t w o leg puller withdraw
the pins from the seats.
3 Remove the three nuts holding the steering box to the
body panel. Ease out the worm screw from the
steering shaft and lift away the steering box.
4 To refit the steering box is the reverse procedure to
dismantling. The steering box to body mounting nuts
should be tightened to a torque wrench setting of
14 Ib/ft to 18 Ib/ft.
Page 94 of 128

reassembling and during assembly liberally lubricated
using Fiat W90/M oil (SAE90 EP).
2 The pitman arm nut should be correctly positioned on
reassembly to the sector shaft and both are marked
with notches or a master tooth on the sector will mate
with a double tooth on the pitman arm which will
prevent incorrect reassembly.
3 The pitman arm nut must be tightened to a torque
wrench setting of 72 Ib/ft.
4 Fill the box up to the level and filler plug with SAE90 EP
gear oil.
Refitting the steering box:
To refit the steering box to the vehicle proceed as
follows:
1 Engage the w o r m screw f r o m the steering shaft by
gently manipulating the steering box.
2 Replace the steering box to body nuts and tighten to a
torque wrench setting of 14 to 18 Ib/ft.
3 Replace the t w o track rod pins in their seatings in the
pitman arm and tighten the self-locking nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 18 to 21 Ib/ft.
4 Replace the steering shaft to worm screw mounting
bolt, lock washer and nut.
9 :5 Relay lever and support
The steering idler arm is secured to the body by means
of a support bracket and a rubber bushed pivot bolt. This
is shown in FIG 9 : 7. When this unit is being serviced
the following points should be noted.
1 If there is excessive play between the pin and the
bushes the bushes must be renewed. Also check the
condition of the pin and if there are signs of excessive
wear it must be renewed.
2 To eliminate torsional stresses in the rubber bushes
during assembly the pin nut must be tightened to
torque wrench setting of 39 to 43 Ib/ft, once the
front wheel toe-in has been correctly adjusted w i t h the
wheels set in the straight ahead position.
3 The relay lever support to body mounting nuts must
be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 14 to 18
Ib/ft.
9 : 6 Steering rods (tie rods)
The steering rod is connected to the idler arm and the
drop arm by means of non-adjustable ball joints. The
track rods are connected to the right and left steering
arms by non-adjustable ball joints and comprise t w o
sleeves which are split and having internally threaded
ends. The ball joints are clamped to either end of the
sleeves. To facilitate adjustment one ball joint end has a
lefthand thread and the other a righthand thread.
Adjustment is made by loosening both the clamping bolts
and turning the central sleeve.
To remove the steering rods from the pitman arm, the
relay lever and knuckle arms Fiat pullers A.46006 and
A.6473 or universal ball joint removers should be used.
If excessive play is evident in the ball joint linkage or
the pin is damaged the complete ball joint assembly must
be renewed.
Upon reassembly the tie rod to ball pin knuckle arm
nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of
18 to 21 Ib/ft.
F500101
FIG 9:7 Relay lever support section
FIG 9:8 Front wheel toe-in checking diagram
Key to Fig 9:8 A—B = 000 inch to .079 inch
It is important that all steering linkages are thoroughly
checked at regular intervals and if any parts are suspect
then they must be renewed.
9 : 7 Front wheel toe-in
To check and adjust the front wheel toe-in proceed as
follows:
1 Ensure that the tyres are inflated to the recommended
pressures. Ensure that the steering wheel is in its
Page 95 of 128

normal straight-ahead position with the spokes
horizontal. Check that the wheels are in the straight-
ahead position.
2 Load the vehicle to static load conditions or with four
average size passengers.
3 Move the vehicle forwards for a distance of approxi-
mately six yards so that the suspension may settle
correctly.
4 The toe-in measurements should be taken at the same
point of the wheel rim. Measure at A (see FIG 9 : 8)
then back up the car to bring points A to the position B
and remeasure. The value obtained at A should be
equal to or greater than B within .0079 inch.
5 As previously described the steering rods are adjust-
able in length. Loosen the clamps and screw in or out
the adjusting sleeves and before tightening the clamp
ensure that the sleeve slot registers w i t h the clamp
joint. With the clamp fully tightened there should
always be a gap between the joint faces.
6 If the steering gear has been re-installed the correct
front wheel toe-in must be set. Then the relay lever pin
nut must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 78
to 85 Ib/ft.
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Front wheel shimmy
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose front wheel bearings
4 Wheels out of balance
5 Loose steering linkage connections
6 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
7 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
(b) Hard steering
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(c) Hard turning when stationary
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
102
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
4 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms
5 Unequal brake adjustment
6 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(e) Rattles
1 Loose steering linkage connections
2 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
3 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
4 Lack of lubrication
( f ) Loose steering
1 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
2 Loose steering linkage connections
3 Loose steering gear mountings
4 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(g) Jerky steering
1 Incorrect front wheel alignment
2 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Loose steering linkage connections
5 Loose or incorrect fitting of worm to sector
(h) Side-to-side wander
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose steering linkage connections
4 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
5 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
6 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arm
7 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(i) Tyre squeal on turns
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect wheel alignment
3 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms
Page 96 of 128

CHAPTER 10
THE BRAKING SYSTEM
10:1 Description
10:2 Maintenance
10:3 Front brakes
10:4 Rear brakes
10:5 Master cylinder
10:6 Wheel cylinder10:7 Self-adjusting device
10:8 Removing a flexible hose
10:9 Brake fluid reservoir
10:10 Bleeding the system
10:11 Hand parking brake
10:12 Fault diagnosis
10:1 Description
All four drum brake units are hydraulically operated by
the brake pedal and the handbrake lever operates the rear
brakes only through a mechanical linkage which normally
requires no separate adjustment (see FIG 10:1).
The brake units are of the internal expanding type with
one leading and one trailing shoe to each brake. A double
ended wheel cylinder expands both shoes into contact
with the drum under hydraulic pressure from the master
cylinder. When the brake pedal pressure is released the
shoes are retracted by means of springs.
The brake pedal is directly coupled to the hydraulic
master cylinder where pressure on the fluid is generated.
This is transmitted to the brakes by a system of metal and
flexible pipes.
The braking units fitted to the new 500 Sedan models
are equipped with a specially designed brake shoe
clearance self-adjustment device which eliminates the
need for manual adjustment of the brake shoe to drum
clearance as is normal practice w i t h a conventional
braking system. Every time the brake pedal is depressed
the self-adjustment device automatically takes up the
excess clearance which may have developed between
the lining and the drum due to normal service wear.
The brake units fitted to the 500 Station wagon model
have a normal brake adjuster which should be used when
F500103 the brake pedal travel becomes excessive. The adjuster
is shown in FIG 10:3.
On later models a dual circuit system is used. It is
described in Section 10:12
10:2 Maintenance
Brake adjustment {Station Wagon)
Jack each wheel in turn after first chocking the remain-
ing three wheels and releasing the handbrake. Depress
the brake pedal so as to force the brake shoes against the
drum and keeping the shoes in this position turn the
adjuster nuts until they contact the shoes and then back
the nuts 20 deg. This will correctly set the shoe to drum
clearance which should be checked for binding by
releasing the brake pedal and ensuring that the road wheel
revolves freely. The operation should then be repeated
on the other wheels. This adjustment will automatically
set the handbrake.
Preventative maintenance:
1 Thoroughly inspect the metal hydraulic fluid lines for
rusting, cracking or flattening and that they are
located away from any sharp edges which could cause
a failure.
Page 97 of 128

FIG 10:1 Diagrammatic view of service and rear wheel parking brake system
Key to Fig 10:1 1 Bleeder connections 2 Brake fluid reservoir 3 Service brake pedal 4 Hand lever, mechanical
parking brake on rear wheels 5 Hand lever travel adjustment stretchers 6 Stop lamps 7 Mechanical brake operating lever,
controlled from lever 4 8 Shoe clearance self-adjusting device 9 Wheel cylinders 10 Master cylinder 11 Stoplight
pressure-operated switch
FIG 10:2 Left front wheel brake assembly (500 Sedan)
SHOE
RETURN
SPRINGSHOE MOUNTING
BRACKET SHOE
RETAINING
PLATE SHOES
DEVICESHOE
SELF-ADJUSTING
WHEEL CYLINDERSHOE RETURNSPRING
2 Check that the hydraulic flexible hoses are not con-
taminated with oil or grease which would destroy the
rubber.
3 Ensure that all pipeline fastening clips are secure
otherwise hydraulic line failure could occur due to
cracking caused by excessive vibration.
104
4 Carefully clean all connections and inspect for
hydraulic fluid leaks. Should any leaks be detected
then the connections should be tightened taking very
great care not to twist the pipes during this operation.
5 Ensure that the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir is
correctly filled up to the top of the filter using Fiat
special 'Blue Label' brake fluid. Extra care must be
taken to ensure that no fluid is spilled over the body
paintwork, as this acts as a strong solvent.
6 Ensure that the play between the brake pedal pushrod
and the master cylinder plunger is .019 inch. This will
correspond to approximately .098 inch free pedal
travel.
Never use any fluid but the recommended hydraulic
fluid. Do not leave it in unsealed containers as it will
absorb moisture which can be dangerous. It is best to
discard fluid drained from the system or after a bleeding
operation. Observe absolute cleanliness when working
on all parts of the hydraulic system.
10:3 Front brakes
Front brake drum removal:
1 Remove the wheel trims and carefully slacken the road
wheel retaining bolts. Using a garage hydraulic jack
raise the front of the vehicle and place on firmly
based stands. Remove the road wheels.
Page 98 of 128

2 Using Fiat puller A.46023 as shown in FIG 8 : 9
remove the wheel grease cap.
3 Using a universal t w o leg puller or Fiat puller A.40005
together w i t h items 1 and 9 remove the wheel hub/
drum assembly having first extracted the splitpin if
fitted and released the hub retaining nut (see FIG
8:10).
Dismantling brake unit:
1 Using a compressed air jet thoroughly clean all com-
ponents of the brake assembly.
2 Make a note of the location of the shoe return springs
and gently ease the shoes away from the brake
backplate (see FIG 10:2).
3 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the rear of t h e
wheel cylinder and remove the t w o cylinder retaining
bolts. Lift away the hydraulic cylinder.
Brake shoe lining:
Check the lining thickness and if found to be exces-
sively reduced service replacement shoes must be fitted.
The minimum allowable brake lining thickness is .059
inch.
Thoroughly check the linings for signs of oil or grease
which, if evident, the shoes must be renewed and the
drums and oil seals thoroughly inspected for the cause
of oil ingress and the cause remedied before reassembly.
Do not fit odd brake shoes and do not mix materials or
unbalanced braking will result.
Do not allow grease, oil or paint to contact the friction
linings.
Brake drums:
Whilst servicing the brakes, thoroughly inspect the
drums for scoring, ovality or distortion as well as inspect-
ing for minute hair line cracks. The drums may be refaced
by using a centre lathe and finally finishing by lapping
the drums to smooth out possible tool marks. The
maximum permissible oversize beyond the nominal drum
diameter of 6.702 to 6.712 inch is .039 inch. This limit
must never be exceeded otherwise the strength of the
drum will be impaired or a reduction in braking efficiency
caused by the increase of shoe expansion travel and the
consequent diminished contact pressure.
No brake adjustment will be required on the new 500
Saloon models after the drum has been reassembled as
the self-adjusting device will accommodate for the shoe
position to the new drum diameter during the first
operation of the brake pedal.
Reassembly of front brakes:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. Ensure
that the pull-off springs are correctly fitted to the holes in
the webs of the brake shoes and that the shoes register
correctly in the slotted ends of the pistons and the
side
mounting plate.
Upon assembly of the hub and brake drum assembly
liberally pack the space between the two bearings w i t h
Fiat MR grease, and remount the hub according to the
instructions in Chapter 8.
F500
FIG 10:3 Section view of left side f r o n t brake assembly
(500 Station Wagon)
Key to Fig 10:3 1 Wheel cylinder 2 Shoe return spring
3 Adjusting cams 4 Shoe guide pin 5 Shoe with lining
6 Drum 7 Housing flange
BRAKE SHOE
ADJUSTING DEVICE
SHOE WEDGE
SELF
WHEEL CYLINDER
SHOE RETURN SPRING
PARKING BRAKE
SHOE CONTROL
RETURN SPRINGS
LEVER
SHOE LOCK PLATEBRAKE SHOES
SHOE RETURN SPRING
SHOE MOUNTING PLATE
FIG 1 0:4 Right rear wheel brake assembly (500 Sedan)
10:4 Rear brakes
Rear brake drum removal:
1 Remove the wheel trims and carefully slacken the road
wheel retaining bolts. Using a garage hydraulic jack
raise the rear of t h e vehicle and place on firmly based
stands. Remove the road wheels.
2 Remove the four drum to hub retaining bolts and
spring washers and carefully withdraw the drum from
the backplate assembly.
Dismantling brake unit:
1 Using a compressed air jet thoroughly clean all
components of the brake assembly.
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