lock FIAT 500 1972 1.G Repair Manual

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading

indicates a break in the cable from the generator to
regulator. Repeat the test on terminal 67. Finally,
remove the temporary link from the generator. If the
readings are correct, test the regulator as described in
Section 11:5.
Removing generator:
1 Disconnect the leads from the generator.
2 Remove the drive belt as previously described.
3 Release t h e rear mounting bracket at the side of the
power unit.
4 Remove the air cooling ducting from around the fan
and generator area and lift away the unit.
5 Release the blower from the end of the armature shaft
and finally, the mounting bolts from the air ducting.
Dismantling generator:
1 Release the pulley self-locking nut and slide the pulley
off the armature shaft.
2 Remove the t w o Woodruff keys on armature shaft.
3 Unscrew the t w o through bolt nuts and pull out the
bolts.
4 Partially remove the commutator end head to the point
where the brushes are. s t i l l seating on the commutator.
Using a piece of hooked wire relieve the load of the
springs on the brushes by arranging the spring ends
on the brush sides. The brushes will be locked in their
holders and cannot be chipped by striking against the
armature shaft during the commutator end head
removal.
5 Gently ease the commutator and fan end heads apart
and, slide out the armature.
Servicing brushes:
Lift the brushes up in the boxes and hold them in that
position by letting each brush spring bear on the side of
its brush. Fit the commutator end bracket over the
commutator end of the armature shaft and release the
brushes by hooking up the springs using a thin screw
driver. Hold back each spring in turn and move the brush
by pulling gently on the flexible connector. If the brush
moves sluggishly remove it and polish the sides using a
smooth file. Before this operation is actually carried out it
is suggested that the brush is marked before removal so
that it is replaced in its original working position.
inch,The minimum permissible length of a brush is
so renew any t h a t are less than this figure. Test the brush
springs using a spring tension scale. New springs should
have a tension of 1.3 to 1.6 Ib. In service this value could
fall slightly before performance is affected. Always bed in
new brushes by wrapping fine sandpaper round the
commutator, pressing down on the brush and rotating
the commutator under it, or draw the paper t o o and f r o .
If new brushes are fitted always fit genuine Fiat replace-
ments.
Servicing the commutator:
A commutator in good condition should be smooth and
free from pitting or signs of the segments burning. Clean
with a rag moistened in petrol. If necessary, polish using
a fine glasspaper whilst rotating the armature. Never use
emerycloth.
If the commutator is badly worn it may be skimmed
using a centre lathe. Use a high rotational speed and take
F500113
FIG 11 :3 Components of generator
Key to Fig 11 : 3 1 Terminal 51 2 Bearing outer ring
retainment terminal nut 3 Commutator end head 4 Brushes
5 Terminal 67 6 Frame 7 Blower end head
8 Bearing retainer nuts and screws 9 Pulley retainment nut
10 Pulley 11 Head mounting tie rods and nuts
12 Armature 13 Blower retainment nut
FIG 11 :4 Commutator end head of generator DSV
90.12.16.3 S
a light cut using a sharp tool. Remove only enough metal
to clean up the commutator face and then polish with
fine glasspaper. To undercut the insulation between the
segments, it is suggested that a hacksaw blade is ground
on its sides until it is the thickness of the insulation and
carefully work between each pair of segments until the
insulation has been cut to a depth of .0394 inch below the
surface.
A thorough visual inspection may determine the cause
of armature failure. Breaks in armature windings cause
burnt commutator segments. Short-circuited windings
are discoloured by overheating, with badly burnt
commutator segments.

1
791011 8 234
11
10
16,15
14 13
1265
FIG 11:5 Components of starter
Key to Fig 11:5 1 Drive end head 2 Head shield 3 Frame 4 Switch 5 Commutator cover band
6 and 7 Pin and spring for lever 8 8 Starting engagement lever 9 Head shield 10 and 11 Head fixing tie rods and tubes
12 Pinion, complete 13 Starting engagement spring 14 Drive unit sleeve and free wheel hub 15 Armature
16 Commutator end head
Testing field coils:
When tested w i t h an ohmmeter the reading should be
8+.1—.3 ohms. Failing an ohmmeter use a 12-volt
supply and connect it in series w i t h an ammeter across
the field terminal and the yoke or body. The meter should
read approximately 2 amps. If there is no reading the
field coil winding has a break in it. If the reading is much
more than 2 amps or the ohmmeter records at much less
than 8 ohms it shows that field coil insulation has broken
down. Renewal of the field coils is a specialist operation
best left to a service station.
The armature:
Apart from reconditioning the commutator, there is
little which can be done to the armature itself. Never try
to straighten a bent shaft and do not machine the arma-
ture core. Armature windings are tested w i t h equipment
normally not available to the car owner. The only check
for a suspected faulty armature which the owner can do
is to substitute an armature which is known to be
satisfactory.
Generator bearings:
1 Commutator end head bearings. Remove the ball-
bearing outer race stop bracket mounting screw and
nut, ease o u t t h e stop brackets and the ballbearings.
2 Fan end head bearing. Remove the ballbearing retainer
mounting screw nuts and ease o u t t h e retainers and
the seals. Using a suitably sized drift remove the ball-
bearing.
114Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling
in both cases.
Reassembly and refitting the generator:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. The
following points should however be noted.
1 The commutator end head ballbearing outer race stop
bracket mounting screw nut must be tightened to a
torque wrench setting of .80 Ib ft.
2 The pulley and fan-to-generator armature shaft self-
locking nuts must be tightened to a torque wrench
setting of 14.5 Ib ft.
3 To assemble the commutator end bracket to the yoke,
partially withdraw the brushes and trap them in this
position by letting the springs bear on the sides of the
brushes. Fit the bracket to the armature shaft and when
it is about 1/2 inch from the yoke face, lift the springs
using a thin screwdriver or a piece of hooked wire and
this will let the brushes drop onto the commutator.
Check that the springs now bear correctly on the tops
of the brushes and push the bracket fully home.
4 Pack all ballbearings with Fiat Jota 3 grease or an
equivalent grade grease.
11:4 The starter motor
Operation:
When operating the starter hand lever through a
flexible coupling a lever is operated (see FIG 11:5)
which controls the pinion engagement with the flywheel.
As the lever completes its movement it closes the starter

parking position the trouble will be found in the sliding
sector which fails to open the switch D (see FIG
11 :16) . Check by removing the four motor cover
mounting screws and uncover the sliding sector. If
possible suitably bend the sector to bring it against
into contact with the rod tip of switch D.
3 If the automatic parking of the blades does not occur
when the switch lever is fully depressed to the parking
position but the motor stops when the switch is
operated the cause of the trouble is that the switch D
is not closing and consequently no current is flowing
between the terminals C and INT. This will probably
be due to dirt lodged between the movable contact
and the fixed contacts of switch D. Thoroughly wash
the components with petrol and if necessary reface
the contacts using a very fine file.
4 Should the motor unit be noisy in operation although
still operating reliably the noise is probably due to the
reduction gear operation, whereby the pinion and
worm are excessively worn or a tooth chipped. The
motor unit must be renewed as motor unit parts are
not available in service.
5 If the switch lever is pushed upwards to the 'on'
position or depressed downwards to the Parking
position and the wiper is still inoperative thoroughly
check all terminal connections for tightness and
cables for damage which if all appear to be correct the
failure of the wiper to operate indicates an internal
fault of the motor unit which
should be repaired or
renewed as necessary.
Removal and refitting the motor:
Remove the wiper arms and the electrical connections
to the motor. Dismantling is a straightforward operation
providing that as all items are removed so they are
inspected and a note made of their locations. However,
reassembly requires more care and the following
procedure should be adopted.
1 Mount the wiper unit onto the body by fully tightening
the nuts fixing the pivots onto which the arms are
fitted. Ensure t h a t the rubber sealing bushes between
the pivots and body are correctly assembled to prevent
water ingress. Slightly lubricate with glycerine.
2 Secure the mounting bracket lower edge to the body
by means of the special square bracket. It is important
not to distort the mounting bracket and ease of
assembly is ensured by elongated holes in the square
bracket. By suitable adjustment the linkages will not
be subjected to distortion or abnormal stresses during
operation.
3 Fit the motor unit to the mounting bracket tightening
the screws and reassemble the main link to the pivot
lever. Ensure t h a t the l o c k i n g of the fastener on the
pivot lever is secure so that it does not become loose
during operation.
4 Remake all the electrical connections and run the
motor for a short time whilst checking all the switch
positions including the automatic parking. It is at this
position that the wiper blades and arms are assembled
to the wiper mechanism.
5 Onto the pivots, install the shims, snap ring, wiper arm,
plain washer and lockwasher. Fully tighten the nuts
with the wiper arms in the parked position.
F500
FIG 11 :17 Headlamp removal
Key to Fig 11:17 1 Screw for vertical beam adjustment
2 Screw for horizontal beam adjustment 3 Headlamp
locating hook 4 Headlamp retaining ring and spring
5 Lamp unit 6 Bulb spring retainers 7 Bulb
8 Junction block
6 Ensure that the wiper arms can be tilted 100 deg.
downwards without striking against the cowl or front
compartment lid. Also ensure that the blade pressure
on the glass is 10.6 to 12.3 oz.
1 1 : 9 The lighting system
Description:
The lighting system comprises t w o headlights with
double filament bulbs of 45 watts for main beam and
40 watts for dip. Headlight control is operated through
the outer light switch below the steering wheel after the
toggle switch at the centre of the instrument panel has
been operated.
A double filament bulb for the front parking and
direction indicator lights is located below the headlights:
alternatively, the parking light may be incorporated in the
headlamp unit. The bulb is of 5 watt rating for the parking
lights and 20 watts for the direction indicator lights.
Two side direction indicator lamps are fitted with 2.5
w a t t b u l b s . The rear number plate is illuminated by a 5
watt bulb operated from the main lighting circuit.
Two three purpose rear light units are fitted and are
provided with a one single filament 20 watt bulb for the
direction indicator and one double filament bulb of 5 watt
rating for the parking circuit and 20 watt for stoplights.
Headlamp removal:
The headlamp on earlier cars may be removed from the
front panel by slightly depressing the lens and rotating the
unit counterclockwise through 15 deg. on later cars a
retaining spring is unhooked inside the front compart-
ment and the lamp can then be lifted out (FIG 11 :17).
121

Lamp brilliance varies w i t h the speed of t h e car:
Check the condition of the battery. Examine the battery
connections. Make sure they are tight and renew faulty
cables.
11:10 Panel and warning lights:
All the gauges are clustered in a single instrument
mounted on the dashboard above the steering column.
Incorporated in this cluster is the parking light pilot light,
generator charge indicator, fuel reserve supply indicator,
low oil pressure indicator, and the speedometer w i t h
mileage recorder.
The parking lamp indicator glows green when the
ignition lock switch key is in either position 1 or 2 once
the toggle switch on the instrument panel has been
operated.
The generator charge indicator shows red only when
the ignition is turned on. It should be extinguished when
the generator output is sufficient for battery charge
(12.6 ± 0.2 volts) with the engine running at a speed
of 1100 rev/min and the headlights switched off.
The fuel reserve supply indicator shows red only when
the ignition is turned on and the amount of fuel in the
petrol tank has dropped to approximately .8 to 1.1
Imp. gallons.
The low oil pressure indicator shows red only when the
ignition is turned on and should be extinguished when
the oil pressure reaches 7.1 to 21.3 Ib/sq in, and opens
the sending unit contacts. Once the engine is at normal
operating temperature but at a speed below 1000 rev/
min the indicator might light up even the pressure is under
control and with normal operation.
All the bulbs fitted to the above described units are of
the tubular 2.5W type and to renew a bulb extract the
bulb holder from the rear of t h e instrument cluster and
release the bulb which is attached by a normal bayonet
coupling.
Fuel reserve supply indicator sender u n i t:
The fuel reserve supply indicator should be checked for
correct indication by allowing the fuel tank to empty and
then inserting .8 to 1.1 Imp. gallons at which stage the
light should extinguish. Any failure to do so should be
checked as follows:
1 Ensure that the indicator bulb operates correctly.
2 Check for complete circuit between the sender unit and
the indicator bulb.
3 If the sender unit float bracket is distorted the bulb
will
indicate a reserve supply of fuel greater or smaller than
specified. The bracket should be adjusted to give
correct indication of fuel level.
4 The sender unit could have been inadvertantly
damaged in which case the unit must be renewed.
11 :11 The horn
The horn circuit comprises the horn, push button at the
centre of the steering wheel and normal earth return
electrical circuit through the car body. One terminal is
connected to the battery whilst the other to the push
button on the steering wheel which when the button is
depressed the circuit will be closed so causing the horn
to operate.
F500
FIG 11 : 21 Number plate lamp
Key to Fig 11 : 21 A Lens and light cap mounting screws
B Lens
FIG 11 : 22 Horn (opened)
Key to Fig 11:22 1 Body 2 Diaphragm 3 Armature
4,5,6 Core 7 Cable: terminal-condenser-stationary contact
8 Cable: terminal-magnetizing coil end 9 Magnetizing coil
FIG 11 :23 Horn sound adjustment. Obtained by adjust-
ing the armature air gap
123

CHAPTER 12
THE BODYWORK
12:1
12:2
12:3
12:4
12:5
12:6
12:7Bodywork finish
Interior and chrome cleaning
Door trim and accessories
Door handles and locks
Removing regulator and door glass
Removing windshield glass
Removing rear side windows12:8
12:9
12:10
12:11
12:12
12:13
12:14Removing rear window glass
Front compartment lid
Engine compartment lid
Folding top
Sun roof
Seats
Interior heater
12:1 Bodywork finish
Large scale repairs to body panels are best left to
expert panel beaters. Even small dents can be tricky, as too
much hammering will stretch the metal and make things
worse instead of better. Filling minor dents and scratches
is probably the best method of restoring the surface. The
touching up of paintwork is well within the powers of
most car owners, particularly as self-spraying cans of
paint in the correct colours are now readily available. It
must be remembered, however, that paint changes colour
w i t h age and it is better to spray a whole wing rather than
try to touch up a small area.
Before spraying it is essential to remove all traces of
wax polish with white spirit. More drastic treatment is
required if silicone polishes have been applied. Use a
primer surfacer or paste stopper according to the amount
of filling required, and when it is dry, rub it down with
400 grade Wet or Dry paper until the surface is smooth
and flush with the surrounding area. Spend time on
getting the best finish as this will control the final effect.
Apply the retouching paint, keeping it wet in the centre
and light and dry round the edges. After a few hours of
drying, use a cutting compound to remove the dry spray
and finish with liquid polish.
F500127
12:2 Interior and chrome cleaning
The cloth upholstery of the seating and the rear
compartment lining must be regularly cleaned to ensure
long life and preserve its attractive appearance. Any dust
or dirt that is blown into the car will settle on the uphol-
stery and will tend to wear the cloth causing an unsightly
appearance. It is recommended that the dust is wiped off
using either a vacuum cleaner or a stiff brush. To remove
ordinary soiling of the upholstery cloth proceed as
follows:
1 Using luke warm water and a neutral soap and a piece
of clean cloth wipe over the upholstery in the direction
of the nap.
2 Repeat the operation using a clean damp cloth and
warm water but no soap.
3 Allow the upholstery cloth to dry, use a stiff brush
against the direction of the upholstery nap to restore
its original fluffy look.
To obtain best results, any stains must be removed as
soon as possible otherwise as time passes they will
become more difficult, if not impossible to remove.
Certain stains require specific solvents and the instruc-
tions must be strictly adhered to.

FIG 12:1 Detail of right door (early type). Upper arrow
points to vent wing lock handle. Lower arrow points to
window regulator handle
FIG 1 2 : 2 Sedan right side door (later type). Front-hinged.
Door latch is of the triple acting type. Later (pull-out) type
interior lock handles have an escutcheon which is levered
out by means of t w o screwdrivers to expose the handle
pivot pin and spring
Cleaning imitation leather:
To keep the imitation leather clean wash in luke warm
water and a neutral soap applied with a soft cloth. Wipe
clean with a clean moistened cloth with no trace of soap
and finally rub with a clean dry cloth until the original
lustre is restored.
128
Chrome plated parts:
To ensure long life from the chrome plated parts these
should be periodically washed using a cloth dampened
with petrol and dried with a soft cloth. Rub with a cloth
moistened in clean oil especially around the edges of the
components and finally rub using a clean dry cloth until
all traces of oil have been apparently removed.
Glass panels:
The glass panels must be cleaned w i t h a chamois
leather or rag. Take care that no abrasive material is
allowed to be rubbed onto the glass otherwise it will be
scratched.
12:3 Door trim and accessories
The rear-hinged doors have welded upper and lower
hinge halves being joined by a fulcrum pin to the other
half of the hinge which is welded onto the body. Upon
reassembly of a hinge the fulcrum pins must be fitted with
the ball head uppermost. With front-hinged doors the
hinge is bolted to the body pillar.
Check strap (earlier models):
To limit the door opening, a rubber check strap is fixed
by four self-tapping screws of which two are located on
the door and t w o on the body. When a check strap is being
fitted the following points should be noted:
1 Always use sealing compound on the check strap
mounting holes to ensure a moisture t i g h t j o i n t .
2 Insert the screws in the plates and in the strap.
3 Always place a washer on each screw between the
body and the check strap, and also the door and check
strap. Tighten the screws fully.
Weather strip:
A one-piece moulded weather strip is fitted to the door
aperture and fixed by a special adhesive. Should the
weather strip become detached or a new one requiring to
be fitted proceed as follows:
1 Remove the old weather strip as necessary and thor-
oughly clean the door opening flange with petrol,
remove any rust spots and touch in the paint work.
2 Clean the new weather strips of their preservative or
the original from road dirt using petrol and thoroughly
wipe
clean.
3 Apply a coat of adhesive using a brush to the side to be
attached to the body. Allow to dry for the recom-
mended period of time and position the weather strip
on the door opening flange ensuring that it is not
distorted. The joint should be on the bottom side of
the rear end of the door opening. Apply a heavy
pressure on the weather strip starting from the centre
and working towards the ends.
Two rubber lining strips are located on the door flange
and these should be attached using the same procedure
detailed above.
Ensure that the bonding of the rubber weather strips
to both the door opening flange and the door panel is
thoroughly dry before the door is closed, otherwise this
could be the cause of subsequent water ingress.

Inner panels:
Imitation leather-lined masonite trim panels are fitted
to all versions of the new 500' models. The panels are
secured in the housing below the door window by means
of four stiff clips located at the top and seven spring clips
located at the bottom equally spaced around the panel
border. The fasteners are located in holes in the door
framework inner flange. The door framework has a plate
which should be bent downwards onto the trim panel
once it has been installed. This will ensure correct seating
of the trim panel in the door housing.
When the door trim panel is being reassembled ensure
that the tarred felt pad is cemented correctly on the door
inner flange so that any water that may seep in through to
the door interior from the window rubber weather strips
may be kept away from the trim panel which would
otherwise cause distortion and rapid deterioration.
12:4 Door handles and locks
The doors are provided with locks which are operated
by handles either from inside or outside the vehicle.
Removal of the lock is a straightforward operation but
upon reassembly the following procedure should be
followed:
1 Mount the handle assembly from the outside and
insert the washer onto the stud. Screw in the nut several
turns to allow correct handle-to-lock mating on final
fitting.
2 Arrange the locking handle dog so that it is horizontally
positioned and tighten the mounting nut.
3 Mount the lock to the door panel and secure w i t h three
screws and washers.
4 Fit the plate w i t h the t w o rubber guide blocks fastening
by the t w o screws.
Striker plates are fitted with shim adjustment to the
door pillars and are secured by three screws.
12:5 Removing window regulator and door glass
Window regulator:
Description:
The window regulator unit is of the lever and gear
control type which transmits crank movement to the
lifting lever using high ratio gears. When the operating
handle is rotated it rotates a pinion mounted on its shaft
which is in mesh w i t h a gear on the hub of which is
mounted a second pinion that meshes with the lever
toothed sector (refer to FIG 1 2 : 3) . At the end of the lever
a pin fitting locates in a guide rail mounted on the
bottom of the glass. When the crank is rotated in one or
other direction the glass is either lifted or lowered.
Regulator removal:
1 Depress the door lining panel so that the crank key may
be located. Remove the key and the crank handle.
2 Using a wide blade screwdriver prise off the trim panel
by inserting the blade between the panel and the door
frame taking care not to scratch the door paint.
3 Remove the intermediate protection lining.
F500129
FIG 12:3 Lefthand side door window regulator, viewed
from car interior
FIG 12:4 Location of window regulator in lefthand side
door panel housing
4 Release the screws securing the window regulator
to the door. Carefully tilt the regulator so as to dis-
engage the lever pin from the guide on the bottom of
the glass and lift away the regulator assembly.
Regulator reassembly:
To ensure satisfactory regulator operation carefully
lubricate the gears and the lever pin guide and also
ensure that the glass slides freely in its channels. To

NUT AND JAM NUT FOR
ADJUSTING PIN FRICTION
FIG 12:5 Ventilation panel lower pivot
FIG 12:6 Removal of windshield glass. Simply press
out as shown
reassemble the regulator to the door is the reverse
procedure to dismantling. The following points should
however, be noted:
1 Before the lining is refitted to the door panel ensure
that the regulator operates correctly. Ensure t h a t the
glass moves up and down in its channels without
excessive efforts required on the crank handle.
2 Once the lining is glued into place ensure that it
adheres evenly on the door so that the window
regulator operation is not interfered with at a later date
due to the lining becoming detached.
130
FIG 12:7 Positioning the windshield after tilting wiperblades
Door window drop glass and weather strip :
Description:
The door windows are fitted with swivelling front glass
ventilators and a drop rear glass pane. The 'new 500'
convertible is equipped with stationary type window rear
glass which is secured to the door panel by means of t w o
brackets and screws together with spring washers and
nuts.
Removal of door glass:
To remove the door window drop glass proceed as
previously described for removing the regulator assembly,
and t h e n ease forward the front glass guide and then
carefully lift away the glass.
Reassembly:
1 Fit Fiat No. 16 clips equally spaced all along the door
window flange.
2 Install the glass runway by inserting it in the rear and
upper side of the window groove. The runway is
fastened in place by the spring clips.
3 Install the glass runway, complete with the fabric lining
and secure it to the regulator frame on the top side
using self-tapping screws and on the bottom side w i t h
the bracket, screw, plain washer and spring washer.
4 Secure the gear type window regulator to the door
panel using the three screws, three plain washers and
three toothed washers.
5 Refit the window rubber weather strips which are lined
with fabric on both inner faces that touch the glass
pane. Lock the weather strips in place w i t h the Fiat
clips.
6 Replace the metal joint cap.
7 Fit and correctly locate the drop glass complete with
lower rubber weather strip, metal channel and run
plate for sliding travel of window regulator arm.

8 Refit the intermediate protection lining ensuring that
it is properly located and well glued. Refit the door
lining panel, key and crank handle.
Door ventilator:
The door ventilator comprises the glass, weather strip
placed between the glass and chromium plated frame,
the chromium plated frame together with pin and bracket
for upper and lower hinging, frame control handle and
lining.
To remove the ventilator glass first drill the upper pivot
pin using a portable electric drill and release the nut and
locknut from the lower pivot bracket. Carefully lift away
the glass.
Reassembly:
To reassemble the ventilator glass proceed as follows:
1 Coat the outer edge of the glass on which the chrome
plated frame must be installed with a 50% solution of
petrol and oil to ensure that the glass can be easily
inserted into the frame.
2 Install the lock handle which is secured to the frame
by means of a screw sunk into the handle body and
t w o corrugated spring washers placed between the
frame and the handle.
3 Before installing the ventilator pane on the door panel
ensure that the metal channels in the front post flanges
at the pane base are firmly located in place and f i t the
rubber weather strip arranging it carefully in its
seating. The weather strip is secured by clips located
on the metal channels.
4 Refit the handle striker plate and secure it to the door
channel by means of t w o self-tapping screws.
5 Insert the lower ventilator swivel on the door panel to
welded bracket. Fit the spring and secure ventilator
assembly through the nut, locknut and plain washer so
that it can, be freely adjusted to any position without
undue effort (see FIG 12:5).
6 Fit the chrome cover on the lower ventilator swivel.
Refit the upper ventilator swivel in the door panel
brackets and clench it using a hammer and a suitably
sized drift against a firm metal block. This will ensure
correct ventilator movement.
FIG 12:8 Adapting windshield weatherstrip. Simply
pull the draw-cord
F500
131 RUBBER BUFFER-HOOD LID LINING
BUMPER
FIG 12:9 Front compartment lid lining and rubber
buffers
HOOD STAY SPRING HOOD STAY HOOD HINGE LOCKING NUTS-
FIG 12:10 Close-up view of hood lid hinge and stay
1 2 : 6 Removing windshield glass
Removal:
To remove the windshield glass carefully push from the
interior of the car against the glass and with the assistance
of a second operator carefully ease the glass away f r o m
the glass aperture as shown in FIG 12:6.
Refitting :
1 Fit the weather strip onto the glass.
2 Insert a draw cord completely around the weather strip
outer lip. Ensure t h a t the cord ends come to the centre
of the lower edge of the glass.
3 Press t h e windshield assembly against the body
opening from the outside as shown in FIG 1 2 : 7 and
then carefully pull the cord ends from the inside so the
overlap of the weatherstrip will locate over the body
opening lip (see FIG 12 : 8).
4 Carefully replace the rear view mirror bulb cable
between the weather strip lip and the body panel from