torque FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Repair Manual

Manual transmission 7A*3
3,8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting bolts, release the slave cylinder pushrod from the re&ase arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side.
7 Unscrew and remove the reverse gear Inhibiting device from the transmission. Tie the cable to one side out of the way. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission (see illustration). 9 Pull out the clip then disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever and release the cable from the mounting bracket (see illustrations). 10 Unscrew and remove the two upper transmisslon-to-englne mounting bolts. Unscrew the single bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 11 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. This Is necessary In order to fit the engine hoist 12 On 5-speed transmissions, trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 13 On 6-speed transmissions, unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing. 14 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley jack and block of wood beneath Ihe engine. 15 Unscrew the Lambda/oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position It In a safe place to prevent damage. 16 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower It and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 17 Unbolt the support bracket from the engine and transmission. Recover the spacer plate. 18 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover, 19 Unscrew the remaining starter motor mounting bolts and support tho starter motor to one side. 20 Loosen and remove the clips securing the left- and right-hand driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts.
3.9a Remove the clip to release the gear engagement cable 21 Unscrew and remove the boils securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 22 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and disconnect the inner end of the dnveshaft from the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the garters. 23 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the botts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to Ihe body then unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 25 Support the woight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the belihousing and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle. A Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that it remains steady on the jack head. Keep the transmission levet until the Input shaft Is fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate. Refitting
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the clutch friction plate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
3.12 Electronic speedometer sensor fitted to 5-speed transmissions
3.9b Removing the gear engagement cable from the mounting bracket b) Tighten all bolts to Ihe specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
Diesel models
Removal 27 Seloct a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of tho vehicle and support on axlo stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 28 Unbolt the relay support then remove the batlery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 29 On models with a cable operated clutch, unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting botts. release the slave cylinder pushrod from the release arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side, 30 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 31 Disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever then slide out the clip and release the cable from the mounting bracket. 32 Unbolt the electronic rev counter sensor from the upper rear of the belihousing and position it to one side (see illustration).
3.32 Electronic rev counter sensor located in the upper rear of the belihousing

7A«4 Manual transmission
33 Remove lha air cleaner front section and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4C. Also disconnect the injection pump vacuum pipe from the clips on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. This work is necessary in order to fit the engine hoist 34 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley Jack and block of wood beneath the engine. 35 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower it and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 36 Unscrew the starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. 37 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 39 Trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side ot the engine. If a mechanical speedometer Is fitted unscrew the knurled collar and disconnect the cabte from the transmission. 40 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover. 41 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft to the transmission flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 42 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 43 Move the swrvel hub assembly outwards and support the driveshaft away from Ihe transmission. 44 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the Inner end of the right-hand driveshaft to the intermediate shaft flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 45 Remove the intermediate driveshaft with reference to Chapter 8. 46 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle.
47 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body then unscrew Ihe bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 48 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolts from the bellhousing and pull the transmission away from the engine.

A


Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that It remains steady o/i the jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft
1$
fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate.
Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Appiy a smear* of high-meiting-point grease to the clutch friction piate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. b) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
4 Manual transmission overhaul -general Infomtatlon
Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult and Involved Job for the DIY home mechanic. In addition to dismantling and reassembling many small parts, clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed by selecting shims and spacers. Internal transmission components are also often difficult to obtain, and in many Instances, extremely expensive. Because of this, If the transmission develops a fault or becomes noisy. Ihe best course of action is to have the unit overhauled by a specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange reconditioned unit. Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the more experienced mechanic to overhaul the transmission, provided the special tools are available, and the Job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner, so that nothing is overlooked.
The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external clrclip pliers, bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a sat of pin punches, a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench 8od a vice will be required. During dismantling o1 the transmission, make careful notes of how each component
1$
fitted, to make reassembly easier and more accurate. Before dismantling the transmission, it will help if you have some idea what area is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely related to specific areas In the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Fault Finding Section at the end of this manual for more Information.
5 Reversing light switch -testing, removal and refitting ||
Testing 1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a plunger-type switch screwed into the front of the transmission casing. If a fault develops, first ensure that Ihe circuit fuse has not blown. 2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring connector, and use a multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test circuit to check that there is continuity between the switch terminals only when reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, and there are no obvious breaks or other damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
Removal 3 Access to the reversing light switch Is best achieved from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then unscrew It from the transmission casing.
Refitting 5 Refit the switch and tighten securely. 6 Reconnect the wiring then lower the vehicle to the ground.

7B«1
Chapter 7 Part B:
Automatic transmission
Contents
Accelerator pedal micro-switch(es) - checking and adjustment II Automatic transmission filter and fluid change See Chapter 1A Automatic transmission fluid level check See Weekly checks Automatic transmission • overhaul 12 Automatic transmission • removal and refining 2 Bectro-magnetic clutch - removal, inspection and refitting 3 BectrO'fnagnetic clutch brushes- removal, inspection and refitting . 4
Electronic control unit - removal and refitting 5 Gear selector cable - adjustment 6 Gear selector cable - removal and refitting 9 General information 1 Kickdown cable - adjustment 7 Kickdown cable - removal and refitting 6 Transmission oil pump - removal and refitting 10
Degrees of difficulty

Easy,
suitable for novice
with
ittle experience ^
Party
easy,
suitable for beginner
with
^r someexperienoe ^
Faiily
difficult,
^ suitable
for
competent
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult, suitable
for fe, experienced DIY >8J mechanic
Verydfficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
General Type Ratios (at transmission): Lowest Highest Final drive
Torque wrench settings Esnh cable Control unit Sectro-magnetic clutch to flywheel Transmission-to-engine bolt/nut ..
ECVT (Electronic Continuously Variable Transmission)
2.503 0.497 4.647:1
Nm Ibftt 14 10 5 4 34 25 85 63
1 Genera) information
I The automatic transmission fitted is designated ECVT (Electronic Continuously Variable Transmission). The main components
01
the transmission are an electro-magnetic dutch, a variable-ratio coupling, a final drive/ differential unit, and the associated control mechanisms (see illustrations overleaf) 2 The variable-ratio coupling consists of two pulleys and a flexible metal drivebelt. The effective diameter of the two pulleys can be varied to provide different transmission ratios between them. 3 During normal driving, the transmission automatically selects the ratio giving the best
compromise between economy and speed. When the driver depresses the accelerator pedal to the floor, a kickdown effect is provided, and the transmission selects a lower ratio for improved acceleration. 4 The gear selector control resembles that fitted to conventional automatic transmissions. The control positions are as follows: P (Parking) The transmission is mech-anically locked by the engage-ment of a pawl with a toothed segment on the driven pulley. R (Reverse) Reverse gean's engaged, N (Neutral) The transmission is In neutral. D (Drive) Normal driving position. Trans-mission ratio is varied automat-ically to suit prevailing speed and load.
L (Low) Prevents the transmission
moving into high ratios. Provides maximum acceleration end maximum engine braking. 5 The engine can only be started In positions P and N. A warning buzzer sounds If the selector is in any position other than P when the ignition is switched off or when the driver's door is opened. 6 The electro-magnetic clutch consists of a driving element boiled to the engine flywheel, and a driven element spiined to the transmission Input shaft. The degree of coupling between the (wo elements Is determined by the intensity of a magnetic field generated by a current passing through windings in the driven element. The magnetic field acts on a layer of metallic powder between the driving and driven elements. When no magnetic field is present, the powder is loose and the two elements are effectively

Automatic transmission 7B*3
11 When reverse gear Is selected, the control unit keeps the transmission In tow ratio, if this were not the case, it would, In theory, be possible to drive as fast In reverse as in forward gear. 12 An electronic control unit supplies the current to energise the clutch. The control unit receives signals concerning engine speed, road speed, accelerator pedal position, and gear selector position, Sensors include the following. a) Engine rpm sensor (from the Injection/ignition control unit) b) Accelerator pedal switch
c) Throttle valve position sensor d) Selector lever position sensor e) Vehicle speed sensor f) Coolant temperature sensor g) Air conditioning sensor h) Brake switch I) Torque signal
13 The final drive/differential unit Is conventional. Drive from the driven pulley is transmitted to the differential by an Intermediate reduction gear. 14 The ECVT incorporates a warning light which illuminates when a fault occurs.
Precautions 1$ Observe the following precautions to avoid damage to the automatic transmission: a) Do not attempt to start the engine by pushing or towing the car. b) If the car has to be towed for recovery, the distance must not exceed 12 miles (20
km),
and the speed must not exceed
19
mph
(30 kph).
If these conditions cannot be met, or If transmission damage is suspected, only tow the car with the front wheels clear of the ground. c) Only engage P or R when the vehicle is stationary.
1.1b Electromagnetic f Coil 2 Signal from vehicle speed sensor 3 Transmission 4 Electromagnetic powder 5 Drive shaft (driven by crankshaft) $ Transmission input shaft 7 Electromagnetic clutch housing 8 ECVT control unit
clutch control system 9 Accelerator pedal micro switch 10 Throttle
vafve
opening position potentiometer 11 Multifunction switch 12 Ignition switch
13
Air conditioning
signal
14 Engine PPM
signal
15 Accelerator pedal 16 Coolant temperature signal 17 Injection/ignition control unit 18 8attery
1.1c Hydraulic control system 3 Injection/ignition control unit 4 Air conditioner sensor
signal
6 Coolant temperature signal 7 Clutch signal 8 Engine RPM
signal
9 ECVT warning light 10 Selector lever position 11 Accelerator
pedal
switch/throttle
valve
potentiometer/torque signal 12 Brake switch 13
ECVT
control unit 14 Signal from vehicle speed sensor
15
Accelerator pedal position switch
16 Pulley ratio 17 Input shaft RPM 18 Primary oil pressure
19
Primary pulley 20 Electromagnetic clutch 21 Pressure regulating solenoid valve 22 Oil pressure control valve 23 Secondary oil pressure 24 Slip ring 25 Drive from engine 26 Oil pump 27 Vehicle speed sensor 28 Secondary pulley 29 Belt and pulley 30 Drive to drlveshafts

7B*4 Automatic transmission
2 Automatic transmission - ^ removal and refitting St
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels, 2 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described In Chapter 5A. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet duct as described In Chapter 4A. 4 Disconnect the kickdown cable at the sector on the throttle housing and detach It from the mounting on the camshaft cover. Also release the cable from the support on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the wiring connectors on the transmission. 6 Disconnect the fluid inlet and outlet Unas from the heat exchanger on top of the transmission. 7 Pull the fluid level dipstick from Its tube on the front of the transmission and tape over the top of the tube to prevent dirt entry. 8 Unscrew and remove the retaining pin and disconnect the speed selector cable from the top of the transmission. 9 Unscrew the upper bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 10 Unscrew the upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 11 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively UBO a trolley jack and block of wood beneath the engine, 12 Remove the screws and remove the front wheel arch liner from under the left-hand wheel arch. 13 Unscrew the nut securing the earth cablo to the transmission. 14 Using a punch drive out the roll pins securing both driveshafts to the final drive output shafts. 15 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 16 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and slide the inner end of the driveshaft from the splines on the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the gaiters. 17 Unscrew the lambdafoxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position it In a safe place to prevent damage. 18 Unscrew ihe nuts securing the downpipe to Ihe exhaust manifold, then lower It and suppon on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 19 Unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing.
3-2 Locking the flywheel when removing the electromagnetic clutch 20 Unscrew the remaining bolt securing the staner motor to the transmission 21 Unbolt and remove Ihe lower flywheel cover from the transmission. 22 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting lo the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 23 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body thon unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 24 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the bellhouslng and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle.

A


Warning: Support the transmission to ensure that It remains steady on the Jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft and pump shaft are fully withdrawn from the electromagnetic clutch housing.
Refitting 25 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a} Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the splines of the transmission input shaft and oil pump driveshaft.
3.6 Checking the resistance of the clutch windings 1 Slip rings
0) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the
specified
torque, where given, c) Renew both driveshaft roll pins.
3 Electro-magnetic clutch • & removal, inspection 5. and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove Ihe transmission as described n Section 2. 2 Turn the flywheel so that two of the lour mounting bolts are accessible, Hold tha flywheel stationary then unscrew Ihe tvrt bolts. To hold the flywheel, Insert a wida bladed screwdriver In the ring gear teeth or alternatively use a piece of angle iron against one of the retaining bolts temporarily Inserted in the cylinder block (see illustration). 3 Turn the crankshaft half a turn and unscrew the remaining bolts, then withdraw the electromagnetic clutch.
Inspection 4 Turn the driven element by means of tha slip rings, and check that the bearing is not noisy or rough. 5 Inspect the slip rings for burning or other damage. Clean them if necessary using fid and a clean rag. 6 Check the resistance of the clutch windings, using an ohmmetor connected across the slip rings (see Illustration). The resistance at 20*0 should be 2 to 4 ohms. 7 Check the Insulation of the windings, using an ohmmeter connected between either sip ring and the body of the clutch (see illustration). Resistance should be Infinity. 8 If the clutch fails any of the foregoing checks, renew it. Apart from the brush gear, Individual spares are not available.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal but tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
windings

6*172

Chapter 8
Driveshafts
Contents
Oriveshaft gaiter check See Chapter 1A or 1B General information 1 Oriveshaft overhaul and rubber gaiter renewal 3 intermediate driveshaft - removal and refitting 4 Driveshafts - removal and refitting 2
Degrees of difficulty

Easy,
suitable for ^ novtoewithittle experience ^
Fatly
easy,
suitable for beginner with
some experience
^

Fairty
difficult, suitable
tor
competent OtYmechanlc

Difficult,
suitable for experienced DIY mechanic ^
Veiydfficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Lubrication lubricant type
Torque wrench settings Driveshaft nut* All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Roadwheel bolts Suspension strut-to-hub carrier bolts Track-rod balljolnt-to-hub carrier 'Use a new nut.
Unequal-length, solid steel shafts, splined to Inner and outer constant velocity joints. Intermediate shaft with support bearing on turbo diesel models with equal length driveshafts.
Fiat specification grease, supplied with gaiter repair kit
Nm Ibfft
240 177 280 207 85 63 70 52 40 30
1 General information
Power is transmitted from the differential to
Ihe
roadwheels by the driveshafts. via inboard and outboard constant velocity (CV) joints (we illustrations). An intermediate drive shaft, with its own support bearing is fitted between the gearbox output and right-hand drive shafts on turbo desei models (see Illustration overleaf). This layout has the effect of equalising driveshaft angles at sll suspension positions and reduces tfveshaft flexing, which improves directional stability, particularly under acceleration. The outer Rzeppa type CV joints allow smooth transmission of drive to the wheels at all steering and suspension angles. Drive Is transmitted by means of a number of radially static steel balls that run In grooves between
the two halves of the joint. The type of inboard CV joint fitted is model dependant. Those fitted to all except the turbo diesel models are of the plunge-cup type; drive is transmitted across the joint by means of three rollers, mounted on the driveshaft in a tripod arrangement, that are radially static but are free to slide in the grooved plunge cup.
The inboard CV joints fitted to turbo diesel models are of the Rzeppa type, similar to those at the outboard end of the driveshaft. On the right-hand driveshafl, the joint is bolted directly to the end of the intermediate driveshaft flange. On the left-hand driveshaft, the joint is bolted to the transmission output shaft flange.
1.1a Cross section of driveshaft - petrol and non-turbo diesel models A Transmission side B Roadwheef side

Driveshafts 8*3
2.9 On turbo diesel models, unscrew the driveshaft Allen bolts (right-hand driveshaft shown) 2.13 Fitting a new driveshaft nut
then pull the driveshaft away from the plunge cup. Position a container underneath the joint to catch any grease that may escape fdnveshaft grease becomes liquid with use). 6 Remove the driveshaft from under the vehicle. Cover the open plunge cup on the vehicle to prevent the ingress of dirt: use a plastic bag secured with elastic bands. Turbo diesel models 9 Unscrew the six Allen bolts securing the inboard end of the driveshaft to the inter-mediate shaft flange (right hand driveshaft) or gearbox output shaft flange (left hand drive-shaft flange) (see Illustration). Recover tho reinforcement plates (where fitted). 10 Remove the driveshaft from under the vehicle. Cover the exposed flange at the gearbox/intermediate shaft, to prevent the ingress of dirt; use a plastic bag secured with elastic bands. 11 Loosely refit one of the strut lower mounting bolts, to support the hub carrier whilst the driveshaft is out of the vehicle.
Befitting 12 After removing the temporarily-fitted bolt torn the strut mounting, pivot the hub carrier away from the vehicle and push the splined end of the driveshaft Into the hub.
13 Fit a new driveshaft nut, but do not fully tighten it at this point (see illustration). 14 Support the driveshatt with one hand and push the hub carrier back towards the vehicle. All models except turbo diesels 15 Re-engage the tripod at the inboard end of the driveshaft with the plunge cup at the gearbox. Slide the gaiter into position over the joint and briefly lift the lip of the gaiter to expel any air trapped inside. Ensure that the gaiter is seated squarely over the universal joint, then fit a new clip around the centre of the joint to secure it in place. Turbo diesel models 16 Align the inboard end of the driveshaft joint with the intermediate shaft flange. Refit the six driveshaft bolts and tighten them securely. All models 17 Refit the suspension strut-to-hub carrier bolts and tighten them to the correct torque * refer to Chapter 10 for details. 18 Refit the brake caliper hydraulic hose (and where applicable, the brake pad wear indicator cable) to the bracket on the base of the suspension strut. 19 Refit the roadwheel and bolts. 20 Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the driveshaft nut to the specified
torque. Stake the rim of the nut into the machined recess in the end of the driveshaft. using a hammer and punch (see illustrations). 21 Tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque and refit the wheel trim/centre cap.
3 Driveshaft overhaul and rubber gaiter renewal
1 Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle as described In Section 2. 2 Unfasten the remainder of the rubber gaiter securing clips. Slide the gaiters towards the centre of the shaft, away from Ihe joints. Wipe off the majority of the old grease with a rag. Outboard CV joint - removal
All models except turbo diesels 3 Mark the relationship between the joint and the driveshaft using a scriber or a dab of paint. Using pair of circlip pliers, expand the circlip that holds the driveshaft m place and withdraw the shaft from the CV joint. Note that the circlip is captive in tho joint, and need not be removed, unless it appears damaged or worn (see illustration overleaf).
2.20a Tighten the driveshaft nut to the specified torque (roadwheel removed for clarity) 2.20b Stake the rim ot the nut Into the recess in the driveshaft 2.20c Recess machined into end of the driveshaft

Driveshafts 8*5
4.4 Unbolt the Intermediate shaft from the 4.5a Withdraw the intermediate shaft from support bracket the transmission 4.5b Recover the dust seal
4 Unbolt the intermediate shaft from the support bracket (see Illustration). 5 Attach a slide hammer to the intermediate shaft flange and draw the splined end of the shaft out of the transmission. Take care to avoid damaging the oil seal. Recover the dust seal (see illustrations).
Refitting 6 Before installing the driveshaft, examine the oil seal in the transmission for signs of
damage or deterioration and, if necessary, renew it (it is advisable to renew the seal as a matter of course). 7 Thoroughly- clean the intermediate shaft splines and the aperture In the transmission. Fit a new dust seal to the shaft, then apply a thin film of grease to the oil seal lips, and to the intermediate shaft splines and shoulders. 8 Push the shaft squarely into the trans-mission, taking care to avoid damaging the oil
9 Line up the intermediate shaft bearing with the suppori bracket, then insert the bolls and tighten them securely. 10 Refit the right-hand driveshaft as described in Section 2, then refit the road-wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque. 11 On completion refill the transmission with the specified quantity and grade of oil. as described in Chapter 1B.
8

9«1
Chapter 9
Braking system
Contents
Brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting 4 Brake fluid level check See Weekly checks Brake fluid renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B Brake warning lamp check See Chapter 1A or 1B Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 Front brake pad check See Chapter 1A or 1B Front brake pads - renewal 2 General information 1 Handbrake - checking and adjustment 9
Handbrake cables - removal and refitting 10 Hydraulic pipes end hoses - renewal 13 Hydraulic system - bleeding 11 Master cylinder - removal and refitting 12 Roar brake shoe check See Chapter 1A or 1B Rear brake shoes - renewal 5 Rear brake drums - removal, inspection and refitting 6 Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting 7 Stop-light switch - adjustment, removal and refitting 6
Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable
far
novice with Sttle
experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable ^ (orbeginnerwith ®
some
experience
Fairly difficult, suitable
for
compe«ent ^ CHYmechanlc ^

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY « mechanic ^
Very difficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
Front disc brakes Type Disc with single-piston sliding calipers Disc diameter Petrol models with single-point Injection 240.0 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 257.0 mm Non-turbo diesel models 240.0 mm Turbodieselmodels 257.0 mm Disc thickness (new); Petrol models with single-point injection 10.80 to 11.10 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 11.80 to 12.10 mm Non-turbo diesel models 10.80 to 11.10 mm Turbodieselmodels 11.80 to 12.10 mm Minimum disc thickness (wear limit): Petrol models with single-pant Injection 9.20 mm Petrol models with multi-point Injection 10.20 mm Non-turbo diesel models 9.20 mm Turbo diesel models 10.20 mm Maximum disc runout 0.15 mm Brake pad friction material minimum thickness 1.5 mm
Rear drum brakes Drum Inner diameter (new) 180.0 to 180.25 mm Maximum drum diameter (wear limit) 181.35 mm Minimum brake shoe lining thickness 2.0 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft
Bfeed
screw 6 4 Brake disc locating studs 12 9 Brake drum locating studs 12 9 Brake pipe and hose unions 14 10 Front caliper mounting bracket-to-hub carrier bolts 53 39 Front caliper-to-caliper bracket guide pin bolts 12 9 fleer wheel cylinder mounting boils 10 7 Roadwheel bolts 85 63

Braking system 9®3
2.6a Unscrew the upper...
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 6 Unscrew the upper and lower caliper guide cin bolts, using a slim open-ended spanner to counterhold the head of the guide pin (see illustrations). Discard the guide pin bolts -new items must be fitted on reassembly. 7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly (see illustration). Suspend it from a suitable point on the suspension using a length of wire or 8 cable-tie, to avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
All models Caution: Do not depress the brake pedal until the caliper is refitted, or the piston will
be
pushed out of Its bore. 8 Withdraw the brake pads from the caliper bracket (see illustrations). 9 Measure the thickness of each brake pad's foclion material. If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly.

A


Warning: Do not be tempted to swap brake pads over to compensate for uneven wear. 10 if the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar and brake cleaning fluid. Pay particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Where applicable, clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded panicles of dirt
or
debris. 11 Clean the surfaces of the brake pad contact points In the caliper body and caliper mounting bracket. 12 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the giide pins can slide freely in the caliper body, and check that the rubber guide pin gaiters
are
undamaged. Brush the dust and din from
the
caliper and piston, but do not inhale it. as
4 may
contain asbestos. 13 Inspect the dust seal and the area around Ihe piston for signs of damage, corrosion or
models with ABS and diesel models)
brake fluid leaks. If evident, refer to Section 3 and overhaul the caliper assembly. 14 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder, to allow for the extra depth of the friction material. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not oeen overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned off. A Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. 15 Apply a little high temperature brake grease to the contact surfaces of the pad backing plates: take great care not to allow any grease onto the pad friction linings. Similarly, apply brake grease to the pad contact points on the caliper bracket - again take care not to apply excess grease, which may contaminate the pads. 16 Place the brake pads in position on the caliper bracket, with the friction material facing the surfaces of the brake disc. Feed the wear indicator cable through the caliper body aperture.
Petrol models without ABS 17 Pivot the caliper body down over the brake pads, then refit the guide pin and clip.
2.7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 18 Fit the caliper body in position on the caliper bracket, then fit the new guide pin bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
AH models 19 Check that the caliper body can slide freely on the guide pins. Ensure that the flexible hydraulic hose is not twisted or kinked In any way. Turn the steering from lock to lock and check that the hose does not chafe against the suspension or steering gear. 20 Where applicable, reconnect the pad wear indicator wiring and press it into the retaining clips on the suspension. 21 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front caliper. 22 With both sets of front brake pads fitted, depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal pedal pressure is restored. Any sponginess felt when depressing the pedal is most probably due to air trapped inside the hydraulic system - refer to Section 11 and bleed the braking system before progressing any further. 23 Refit the roadwheels. and lower the vehicle to the ground. 24 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks. 25 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly,
2.8a Withdraw the outboard... 2.8b ... and inboard brake pads from the caliper bracket