Temp FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Safety first! 0.5
Working on your ear can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning • Beware of burns from the exhau3t system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle. ~ always supplement the ' ' -jack with axle stands, or use ... drive-on i'j ramps. kr Never venture ™ under
a
car
vv/j/ch
Is only supported by a jack. • Take card if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire • Fuel Is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't (et fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of toots). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repainng or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock x ^ ^ ? , • Ignition HT _ " voltage can be ^ dangerous, ~ especially to > people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the f^ ignition system with fT") the engine running or ' J ' J the Ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous: they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut, • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. « Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream If necessary. Change out of oll-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame {including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found In gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with soch components It is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when cerlam types of synthetic rubber, found In some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc. are exposed to temperatures above 400;C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years, tfit gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.
The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steenng wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

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Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any otfterpart of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Remember...
DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wrtstwatch etc. before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system, • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job. or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting toots which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play In or near a vehicle being worked on.

Roadside repairs 0.7
I Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct | whatever made the battery go fiat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

t

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

2

The charging system (s not working property (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator Itself faulty).

3

The battery Itself is at fault (ehctrotyte low, or battery worn out).
When jump-starling a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
• Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
• Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
• Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.
Jump starting • Make sure that the booster battery Is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
• If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
• Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK. In the case of automatic transmission).
Make sure that the lump leads will not come into contact with the fan. drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine.
Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Roadside repairs 0.9
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs Investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.
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Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids aro poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of 0 fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park It over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
Antifreeze
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline oeposit like this.
Oil from filter
A leak occurring at a wheel Is almost certainly brake fluid.
Gearbox oil
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the drivoshafts.
Power steering fluid
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
When ail else falls, you may llnd yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances. OIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: • Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. • Always turn the Ignition key to the ON position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. • Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.
• Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. • Note that greater-then-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. • On models with power steering, greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required. • The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. • Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. • Only dnve at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.
Towing
• On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply(see Chapter 7B. Section 1). If In doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. • The front towing eye is supplied as part of the tool kit stored in the luggage compart-ment. To fit the eye pnse out the plastic cover from the front or rear bumper using a screwdriver, then screw the eye onto the threaded pin as tightly as possible.

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Warning: To prevent damage to the catalytic converter, e vehicle must not be push'started, or started by towing, when the engine is at operating temperature. Use jump leads (see Jump starting).

o*i2 Weekly checks
Engine oil level
Before you start • Make euro that your cor is on level ground. • Check ihe oil level oefore ihe cor is driven, or at least 5 minutes alter the engine has been switched off.
HHifffl If tho oil Is checked rTf"™^ Immediately after driving the IHlAIT vehicle,
some
of the oil will " remain In the upper engine components, resulting in on inaccurate reading on the dipstick!
The correct oil Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It Is very important that the correct oil for your car is used
Lubricants and fluids).
Car Care • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whother you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains In the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil.
• Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see pholo 2). If Ihe level Is too low
sqvoio
engine damage may oecur. Oil seal failure may result if tho engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

I

Tho dipstick is brightly coloured for easy identification (seo Under bonnet check points). Withdraw the dipstick (petrol engine shown).

3

If more oil is needed, remove the oil filler cap Irom the top of the ongine (petrol engine shown).
SI i J

2

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again. The level should be between the upper and lower marks.

4

Oil Is added through the filler cap aperture (diesel engine shown). Add the oil a little at a time, checking the level on the dipstick often. Using a funnel will help to reduce spillage. Don't overfill (see Car Care).
Coolant level
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Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coo/ant about, as It is poisonous.
Car Care • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there Is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and Joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and roctify as necessary.
• It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don't top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.
H Check that the coolant level is between I the MIN and MAX marks, il topping up is necessary, wait until tho engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the expansion tank cap to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it (petrol engine shown).

2

On diesel engine models, Ihe ooolant expansion tank is a different shape, but Ihe same procedure applies as for petrol engine models (see photo 1). Tho MlN and MAX marks appear on the side of tlie tank neorosl the engine.

3

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank until the coolant level is up to the MAX mark (petrol engine shown), The MIN and MAX marks appear on the tank below the filler neck.

Lubricants and fluids 0.17
Lubricants and fluids
Engine Petrol Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE15W/40, to API SG/CD or better (Duckhams QXR Premium Petrol Engine Oil, or Duckhams Hypergrade Petrol Engine Oil) Diesel Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE15W/40, to API SG/CD or better Duckhams QXR Premium Diesel Engine Oil, or Duckhams Hypergrade Diesel Engine Oil) Cooling system Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and soft water (Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant) Manual gearbox Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE80W to API GL4 (Duckhams Hypoid Gear Oil SOW GL-4) Automatic transmission Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams ATF Autotrans III) Braking system Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake & Clutch Fluid) Power steering Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams ATF Autotrans Hi)
Choosing your engine oil
Engines need oil. not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to Improve fuel economy. By introducing a simplified and improved range of engine oils. Duckhams has taken away the confusion and made it easier for you lo choose the right oil for your engine.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction Without oil. the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.
• Cooling hot-spots Temperatures Inside the engine can exceed 1000°
C.
The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.
• Cleaning the engine internally Good quality engine oils clean the Inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil niter or flushed out at oil change.
OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE To handle and dispose of used engine oil safety, always: • Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. • Dispose of used oil and empty packs In a responsible manner In an authorised disposal site. tti Call 0800 663366 to find qIqq f £ the one nearest to you. Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.
DUCKHAMS ENGINE OILS For the driver who demands a premium quality oil for complete reassurance, we recommend synthetic formula Duckhama QXR Premium Engine Oils. For the driver who requires a straight-forward quality engine oil, we recommend Duckhams Hypergrade Engine Ote.
For further information and advice, call the Duckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988.
^SGCKHAMS

ia«8 Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
5.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then
bIbo
be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four psds must tie renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground
6 Underbody sealant check
I
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Alternatively position the car over an inspection pit. 2 Check the underbody. wheel housings and side sills for rust and/or damage to the under-body sealant. If evident, repair as necessary.
7 Hose and fluid leak check ^
I
1 Visually Inspect the engine joint laces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil (liter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that.
A leak In the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust~coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak
over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by refemng to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips ore In place and In good condition, Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious probioms In the luture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated, Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. 4 Inspect all 'he cooling system components {hoses. |olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the coolmg system will usually show up as white-or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gaskel with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank Is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deten orated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away Irom the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the fitter neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within tne engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Exhaust system check fe
1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure thai all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the Joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often bo traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come Into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings Otherwise separate the joints {if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
9 Driveshaft gaiter check
9.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
1
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto full lock, then s'owly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of Ihe outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber garters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see Illustration), If any damage or deterioration Is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of (he CV joints themselves by first holding (he driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints. wear In the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut

1A.12
Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
18.7 Lift up the cover and remove the filter element (18-va!ve engines) 9 Fit a new air (liter element In position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated 10 Refit the air cloaner cover, engage the rear retainers and secure with the three bolts.
19 Spark plug renewal
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropnate for the engine (a suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter. If this type is used and the engine Is In good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals Spark plug cleaning Is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted
19.2a Disconnecting tho HT leads from Iho spark plugs on 8-valve engines ...
19.4 Removing the spark plugs
unless specialised equipment Is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 To remove the plugs first remove the air cleaner assembly (8-vaive engines) or the a»r cleaner, resonator and inlet air duct (16-valve engines) with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. if the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead conneciion may be Iractured (see illustrations) 3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping into the cylinders. 4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustration). Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug • If it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken off. As each plug is removed examine 4 as fallows. 5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good Indication of the condition of the engine. If the Insulator nose of the spark plug Is clean and white, with no deposits, this is Indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heal away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 6 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, this
19.2b ... and on 16-valve engines
19.9 Ad|ustlng a spark plug electrode gap
indicates that the mixture Is too rich. If the plug is black and oily, then It is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 7 If the Insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture Is correct and it is likely that (he engine Is in good condition. 6 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it Is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 9 To set the gap. measure it with a feeler blade and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug elect/ode until the correct gap l9 achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulator and cause plug I allure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a firm sliding fit (see illustration). 10 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers, 11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean (see Haynes Hint). 12 Remove the rubber hose (If used), and tighten the plug to the specified torque using the spark plug socket and a torque wrench, Refit the remaining spark plugs In the same manner. 13 Connect the HT leads In their correct order, and refit any components removed for access.
It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To, avoid this possibility, fit a short length of Si 16 Inch Internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal Joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug beginto cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the cylinder head

ia.14 Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts.
there should be a noticeable give In the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least tsvo minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now. it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal shouto feel considerably harder.
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or 3 years
. transmission (see illustration). Using an Allen 25 Lambda/oxygen sensor ^ key, unscrew the plug and clean it. check \ 3 The oil level should reach the lower edge of ^ the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and If the CO level at the exhaust tailpipe is too w,u tr,cWe out when is 'e™oved; this does high or low, Ihe vehicle should be taken to a «©l necessarily Indicate that the level is Fiat dealer so lhat the complete fuel-injection correct. To ensure that a true level is and ignition systems, including the Lamoda/ established, wait until the Initial trickle has oxygen sensor, can be thoroughly checked stopped, then ado oil as necessary until a using the special diagnostic equipment. Once ,r,ckle o1 new oil can be seen emerging. The these have been checked and are known to 'W wl" be correct when ,he flow ceases-us® be free from faults, the fault must be in the good-quality oil of the specified type, catalytic converter, which must be renewed Make sur®that vehicle Is completely level as described In Chapter 4D, Section 6. checking the level and do not overfill, 4 When the level Is correct refit and tighten the plug and wipe away any spilt oil.
26 Manual transmission oil level check ^ 27 Evaporative loss system ^ check
1 Park Ihe vehicle on a level surface, If possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level plug is best reached from under Ihe engine compartment. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil ts checked Immediately alter driving the car, some of the oil will remain distributed around the transmission components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on the front of the
Refer to Chapter 40 Section 2 and check that all wiring and hoses are correctly connected to the evaporative toss system components.
28 Automatic transmission fitter and fluid change
1 Take the vehicle on a short run. to warm the transmission up to operating temperature.
Park the car on level ground, then switch off the Ignition. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support]. Note thai, when refilling and checking Uie fluid level, the car must be lowered to the ground, and level, to ensure accuracy. 3 Remove the dipstick, then position a suitable container under the transmission, Unscrew the sump drain plug and allow the fluid to drain for at ieast 10 minutes. Refit and tighten the drain plug when the fluid has completely drained.

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Warning: The transmission fluid may be very hot and precautions must be taken to avoid scalding.
4 Clean around the transmission sump mating flange. Unboll and remove the sump and remove the gasket. 5 Remove the two bolts and withdraw the transmission fluid filter {see illustration). 6 Fit the new filter, and secure It with the two bolts. 7 Refit the sump using a new gasket, then
_
lower the vehicle to the ground, 8 Fill the transmission with the specified quantity of fluid via Ihe dipstick tube, using a funnel with a fine mesh filter. 9 Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then check the fluid level as described In Weekly checks. 10 Dispose of the old fluid safely.
26.2 Transmission filler/level plug location 28.5 Automatic transmission fluid filter retaining bolts

ia.16 Every 2 years - petrol models
joint has not been disturbed for some time, if will bo necessary to gently manipulate the hose to break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the coolant to drain Into the container. 3 Certain models are fitted with cooling system bleed plugs, which should be opened to aid the draining process and help prevent airlocks. These are located on the top right hand edge of the radiator, on the heater Inlet hose and additionally, on 16-valve engines, on the heater outlet hose (see illustrations). If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided It is ciean and less than two years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended. 4 Once ail the coofant has drained, reconnect the hose to the radiator and secure it in position with the retaining clip.
Cooling system flushing 5 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or If the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, Ihe cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean. 6 The radiator should be flushed Independently of the engine, to avoid contamination. Radiator flushing 7 To flush the radiator disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 8 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean v/ater through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 9 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed wilh a good propnetary cooling system
cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer's Instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator. Engine flushing 10 To flush the engine, remove the thermostat as described In Chapter 3 then temporarily refit the thermostat cover. 11 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 12 On complotion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses with reference to Chapter 3,
Cooling system filling 13 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreezo mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see below). 14 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant Into the oxpansion lank to prevent airlocks from forming. Ensure that all bleed plugs/screws are open. 15 If the coolant Is being renewed, begin by pouring in a couple of litres of v/ater, followed by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then top-up with more water. 16 Once the level in the expansion tank starts to rise, squeeze the radiator top and bottom hoses to help expel any trapped air In the system. Once all the air is expelled, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark and refit the expansion tank cap. Close all bleed plugs. Continue the filling procedure as follows according to engine type.
1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-vaive) engines 17 Start the engine and run it until tt reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine and allow it to cool. 18 Chock for teaks, particularly around disturbed components. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank, and top-up H necessary. Note that the system must be coW before an accurate level Is indicated in the oxpansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is removed while the engine Is still warm, cover Ihe cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly to gradually relieve the system pressure (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wall until any pressure remaining In the system is released, then continue to turn the cap until It can be removed. 1242 cc (16-valve) engines 19 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. start the engine and run it at Idling speed for two to three minutes. Allow the engine to continue running until the electric cooling fan operates, but during this time, briefly in-crease the engine speed to 2000 to 3000 rpm every 30 seconds. Maintain the coolant level in the expansion tank to the MAX mark during tliis procedure, adding more coolant as necessary. 20 On models without air conditfoning, wilh the engine still idling, carefully unscrew the bleed plug on the top of the radiator. Increase the engine speed until fluid emerges from the bleed plug, then close the plug and return the engine to idle.

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Warning: Take suitable pre-cautions against scalding when opening the bleed plug as the coolant will be very hot. 21 On all models, allow the engine to continue running at idle for a further five minutes. After this time, switch the engine ofl, allow it 1o cool completely and when cool

ib-8 Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
10.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
9 Exhaust system check
1 With the engine cold {at least an hour after tho vehicle has been driven), check ihe complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system Is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe oorrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are In good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of tho system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity ot the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be Iracod to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or
suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
10 Driveshaft gaiter check
I
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto lull lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition ol the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs ot cracking, splits or detenoration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see illustration). If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8. Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in Ihe driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.
11 Idle speed check and adjustment
1 The usual type of tachometer (rev counter), which works from ignition system pulses, cannot be used on diesel engines. A
diagnostic socket is provided for the use of Flat test equipment, but this will not normally be available to the home mechanic. If it Is not felt that adjusting the Idle speed by ear 19 satisfactory, It will be necessary to purchase or hire an appropriate tachometer, or else leave tho task to a Fiat dealer or other suitably equipped specialist, 2 Before making adjustments, warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Make sure that the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted (see Chapter 4C). 3 The adjustment must be made with all electrical components (Including the cooling fan) switched off. It the fan comes on dunng the adjustment, wait until it switches off automatically before proceeding. 4 The idle adjustment screw Is located on the top of the fuel injection pump (see illustration). To adjust the idie speed loosen the locknut and turn the screw as required then tighten the locknut. 5 On completion switch off the engine.
12 Fuel filter renewal i
1 The fuel filter is located on the bulkhead in the engine compartment. An electrically-operated heater is located between the filter and tlw housing, 2 Position a suitable container under the fuel filler. Loosen tho bleed screw on the top of the filter, then disconnect the wiring from Ihe water sensor and loosen the water drain screw on the bottom of the filter. Allow the fuel to drain completely (see illustration). 3 Tighten the drain and bleed screws, then Use an oii niter strep to loosen the fuel filter {see illustration).
12.2 Loosening the bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter
11.4 fdie speed adjustment 1 Locknut 2 Adjustment screw