suspension FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and associated systems SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A«1 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B«1 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C«1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D«1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3»1 Fuel system - single-point petrol injection models Page 4A«1 Fuel system - multi-point petrol injection models Page 4B«1 Fuel system - diesel models Page 4C»1 Exhaust and emission control systems Page 4D*1 Starting and charging systems Page SA«1 Ignition system - petrol models Page SB«1 Preheating system - diesel models Page 5C>1
Transmission Clutch Page 6»1 Manual transmission Page 7A«1 Automatic transmission Page 7B*1 Driveshafts Page 8*1
Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9*1 Suspension and steering Page 10-1
Body equipment Bodywork, trim and Fittings Page 11«1 Body electrical systems Page 12*1
Wiring diagrams Page 12»13
REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights Page REF«1 Conversion factors Page REF*2 Buying spare parts Page REF»3 Vehicle identification Page REF«3 General repair procedures Page REF«4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF»5 Disconnecting the battery Page REF«5 Tools and working facilities Page REF-6 MOT test checks Page REF»8 Fault finding Page REF»12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF»20
index Page REF»24
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0.4 Introduction
The Fiat Punto range was Introduced in March 1994 with 1106 cc, 1242 cc and 1372 cc petrol engines and a 1698 cc diesel engine. At first, models wero only available in 5-door Hatchback form, however 3-door versions followed in May 19SM and Cabriolet and Automatic versions In June 1994. At the seme lime a lurbo diesel model was launched. Power-ass«sted steering and ABS were offered as options in October 1994, and the 6-speed 55SX and norrrally-asptraled dieset followed in June 1995. In June 1997 a minor facelift was undertaken which Included improvements to the suspension and steering and various cosmetic changes. This facelift also saw the introduction of fie ! 242 cc DOHC 1S-valve engine available In top of the range models.
Ait engines covered in this Manual are fitted with single- or double-overhead •camshaft engines, end all models have fully independent front and rear suspension. The distinguished lines of the bodywork together with tho high level rear lighting have made the Rat Punto a very popular small car.
Provided that regular servicing is earned out In accordance with tho manufacturer's recommendations, the Flat Punto should prove reliable and economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, and most of the items needing frequent attention are easily accessible.
The Fiat Punto Team
Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:
Authors
Sub-editor Page Make-up Workshop manager Photo Scans
Cover illustration & Une Art
Wiring diagrams

A.K. Legg laemimi
Spencer Drayton
Ian Barnes
Steve Churchill Paul Buckland
Steve Tanswell John Martin
Roger Healing
Matthew Marke
We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car's reliability and preserve its resale value.
Your Fiat Punto Manual
The aim ol this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle, It can do so-ln several ways. It can help you decide what worfc must be done (even should you choose to get It dons by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, It may even be quicker than booking tho car into a garage and going there twice, io leave and collect it. Perhaps mosl important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover Its labour and overheads, The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layoul can be understood, Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' or 'right' are In the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forward.
Acknowledgements Thanks are duo to the Champion Spark Plug Company, who supplied the Illustrations of various spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Oraper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped In the production of this manual. We take great pride In tho accuracy of information given In this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not Inform us. No liability oen be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or Injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

o»i4 Weekly checks
Tyre condition and pressure
l( is very important that tyres are In good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre (allure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style • harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will ail produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating' the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing ail four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded In the tread before they penetrate the tyro to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
r
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so (hat its point of penetration is marked. Then Immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage (n the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewails. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the Inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage, Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by •kerbing"1 whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel Is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.
New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will v/ear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is fett only through the steering, then II Is likely that |ust the front wheels need balancing. H, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car. the rear wheels could be out of balance. Whoel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.
-j Tread Depth • visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands {8}, which wiU appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewail (A).
Tyre tread wear patterns
2 Tread Depth * manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.
2 Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately alter the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result Tyre pressures are shown on page 0*18.
Shoulder Wear Centre Wear Uneven Wear
Underinflatlon {wear an both sides) Under-lnflatton will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side] Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!
Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyro tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures
It you sometimes have (o inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified tor maximum load or sustained high speed, don't forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most lyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or 'tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of I he treed which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

1A»1
Chapter
1
Part A:
Routine maintenance & servicing - petrol models
Contents

Air
filter renewal 18 Automatic transmission filter and fluid change 2B Auxiliary dr cmI
and filter renewal 3 Evaporative loss system check 27 Exhaust system check 8 From brake pad check 5 Fuel filter renewal 17 Headlight beam adjustment 23 Hinge and lock lubrication 22
Hose and fluid leak check 7 Idle speed and CO content check and adjustment .11 Ignition system check 20 Introduction 1 Lambda/oxygen sensor check 25 Manifold mounting check 16 Manual transmission oil level check 26 Manual transmission oil renewal .32 Pollen filter renewal 10 Rear brake shoe check 29 Regular maintenance 2 Road test 24 Spark plug renewal 19 Steering and suspension check 12 Timing belt renewal 30 Underbody sealant check 6 Valve clearance check and adjustment 15
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ novice with little experience ^
Fairty easy, suitable for beginner with ^ some experience
FaMy difficult, ^ sitable for competent jj^ DIY mechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY aJ mechanic ^
Very difficult, ^ suitable for expert DIY or professional ^
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Maintenance schedule - petrol models 1A.3
The maintenance Intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These axe the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily.
if you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency.
performance and resale value of your vehicle. When the vehicle Is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, In order to preserve the factory warranty.
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly Q Refer to Weekly checks
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or
6 months - whichever comes first • Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
Note: Frequent oil and fitter changes am good tor the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least
twice
a year if the mileage covered Is a less.
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or
12 months - whichever comes first
In
addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: Q Check the operation of the brake warning lamp (Section 4) • Check the front brake pads for wear (Section 5) • Check the underbody and sealant for damage (Section 6) • Hose and fluid leak check (Section 7) • Check the condition of the exhaust system and its mountings (Section 8) • Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters (Section 9) • Renew pollen filter (Section 10) • Check exhaust gas content and idle speed (Section 11) • Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 12)
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or
2 years - whichever comes first
In
addition to the Items listed above, carry out the following: • Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the auxiliary drlvebelt(s) (Section 13) • Check the freeplay and height of the clutch pedal (Section 14) • Check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances (Section 15) HI Check and if necessary tighten inlet and exhaust manifold mountings (Section 16) • Renew the fuel filter (Section 17) D Renew the air filter element (Section 18) O Renew the spark plugs (Section 19) • Check the condition of the HT cables (Section 20) • Check the engine management system (Section 21) Q Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 22) O Check the headlight beam adjustment (Section 23) • Carry out a road test (Section 24)
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes first In addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the operation of the Lambda sensor (Section 25) • Check and if necessary top-up the manual transmission oil level (Section 26) • Check the operation of the evaporative loss system (Section 27) • Automatic transmission inner filter and fluid renewal (Section 28)
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or
4 years - whichever comes first In addition to the items fisted above, carry out the following: • Check the rear brake shoes for wear (Section 29) • Renew the timing belt (Section 30)"
*Noto: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 70 000 miles (105 000 km), It is strongly recommended that the belt Is renewed at 40 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to Intensive use, ie. malniy short Journeys or a let of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal Interval Is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or
6 years - whichever comes first in addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the condition and operation of the crankcase emission control system (Section 31)
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km) • Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 32)
Every 2 years
(regardless of mileage) • Renew the engine coolant (Section 33) • Renew the brake fluid (Section 34)

ia«4 Component location - petrol models
Underbonnet view -1108 cc engine model
1 Engine oil filler
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Brake vacuum servo unit 4 Brake fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner
cover
6 Coolant expansion lank 7 Windscreen washer fluid reservoir 8 Front suspension strut upper mounting 9 Ignition coil cover 10 Engine wiring connector cover 11 Battery 12 ECU
Underbonnet view - 1242 cc (8-valve) engine model
1 Engine oil tiller
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Brake vacuum servo unit 4 Brake fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner cover 6 Coo/ant expansion tank 7 Windscreen washer
fluid
reservoir 8 Front suspension strut upper mounting 9 Ignition coil cover 10 Engine wiring connector cover 11 Battery 12 ECU

Component location - petrol models 1A.5
Underbonnet view - 1242 cc (16-valve) engine model
1
Engine
olt filler
cap
2
Engine
oil dipstick 3
Brake
fluid
reservoir
4
Power
steering fluid reservoir 5
Engine
wiring connector cover 6
Windscreen
washer
fluid
reservoir 7 Battery 8
Coolant
expansion
tank
9 Air cleaner
cover
10 Resonator 11 ECU
1
Oil filter
2
Sump
drain plug 3
Transmission
drain plug A
Electric
cooling Ian unit 5
Left-hand driveshaft
6
Intermediate shaft
7
Right-hand driveshaft
B
Front
suspension lower arms 9
Front
anti-roll
bar
10
Exhaust
downpipe 11
Front
brake calipers (2
Rear engine
mounting IS Radiator bottom hose
Front underbody view (diesel model shown, petrol model similar)

ia«6 Component location - petrol models
Rear underbody view (diesel model shown, petrol model similar)
1 Fuel
tank
2
Exhaust
tailpipe
and
silencer 3
Rear axle
4 Coll
springs
5
Rear
anti-mil
bar
6
Handbrake cables
T
Rear brake pressure
regulating
valve
S
Rear
shock absorber lower mountings
Maintenance procedures
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle (or safety, eoonomy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, and Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks. ad}ustments, component renewal and other helpful Items are included. Refer to the accompanying Illustrations of the engine compartment and tho underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with ihe mlleaget/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result m a long and reliable service life. This Is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some Items but not others at the specified service Intervals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can, and should, be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle Is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yoursell before tne
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.
2 Regular maintenance
1 If. from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 II is possible that there will be times when the engine rs running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely If a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out. outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to bo carried out. II, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those usually required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations a) Cloan, inspect and test the battery
(See
Weekly checks), b) Check alt the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebeft($) (Section 13). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 19). e) Inspect the ignition HT leads (Section 20). 0 Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 18). g) Check the fuel filter (Section 17). h) Check tho condition of ell hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Sect/on 7). i) Check theexhaust
gas emissions (Section 11).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations;
Secondary operations All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following; e) Check the charging system (Chapter 5K Section 4). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 58). c) Check tho fuel system (see relevant Part of Chapter
4).
d) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 20)

ia«8 Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
5.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then
bIbo
be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four psds must tie renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground
6 Underbody sealant check
I
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Alternatively position the car over an inspection pit. 2 Check the underbody. wheel housings and side sills for rust and/or damage to the under-body sealant. If evident, repair as necessary.
7 Hose and fluid leak check ^
I
1 Visually Inspect the engine joint laces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil (liter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that.
A leak In the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust~coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak
over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by refemng to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips ore In place and In good condition, Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious probioms In the luture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated, Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. 4 Inspect all 'he cooling system components {hoses. |olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the coolmg system will usually show up as white-or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gaskel with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank Is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deten orated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away Irom the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the fitter neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within tne engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Exhaust system check fe
1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure thai all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the Joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often bo traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come Into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings Otherwise separate the joints {if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
9 Driveshaft gaiter check
9.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
1
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto full lock, then s'owly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of Ihe outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber garters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see Illustration), If any damage or deterioration Is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of (he CV joints themselves by first holding (he driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints. wear In the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut

Every 10 000 miles - petrol models ia.q
10 Pollen filter renewal
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) is located under the engine bulkhead cover panel. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both svindscreen wiper arms. 3 Unclip the rubber
seal
from the relevant end of
the
top of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and pull out the fasteners securing the bulkhead cover panel in position. Release the cover panel Irom the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from its housing (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter. Clip the filter securely in position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, securing it in position with Ihe fasteners, and seat the rubber seal on
the
bulkhead.
11 Idle speed and ^
CO
content check J and adjustment ^
1 The idle speed is controlled by the ECU via a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body and is not adjustable. 2 The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda sensor, which is mounted in the exhaust down pipe. The ECU then uses this information to modify the injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio.
3 Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and the idle speed. However, if these are found to be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
12 Steering and ^ suspension check
front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steehng rack-and-pinion gaiters for spirts, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Qrasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation Is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
12.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant tum the steering wheel back and forth about sn eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any. lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle. 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, ihe body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
13 Auxiliary drivebelt{s) check % and renewal ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special tool to cooectfyset the drivebelt tension. If access to ibis equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one. two or three auxiliary drivebelts may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an Individual drivebelt.
Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up