wiring FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and associated systems SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A«1 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B«1 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C«1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D«1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3»1 Fuel system - single-point petrol injection models Page 4A«1 Fuel system - multi-point petrol injection models Page 4B«1 Fuel system - diesel models Page 4C»1 Exhaust and emission control systems Page 4D*1 Starting and charging systems Page SA«1 Ignition system - petrol models Page SB«1 Preheating system - diesel models Page 5C>1
Transmission Clutch Page 6»1 Manual transmission Page 7A«1 Automatic transmission Page 7B*1 Driveshafts Page 8*1
Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9*1 Suspension and steering Page 10-1
Body equipment Bodywork, trim and Fittings Page 11«1 Body electrical systems Page 12*1
Wiring diagrams Page 12»13
REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights Page REF«1 Conversion factors Page REF*2 Buying spare parts Page REF»3 Vehicle identification Page REF«3 General repair procedures Page REF«4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF»5 Disconnecting the battery Page REF«5 Tools and working facilities Page REF-6 MOT test checks Page REF»8 Fault finding Page REF»12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF»20
index Page REF»24
expert22 rjijr http://rutracker.org

0.4 Introduction
The Fiat Punto range was Introduced in March 1994 with 1106 cc, 1242 cc and 1372 cc petrol engines and a 1698 cc diesel engine. At first, models wero only available in 5-door Hatchback form, however 3-door versions followed in May 19SM and Cabriolet and Automatic versions In June 1994. At the seme lime a lurbo diesel model was launched. Power-ass«sted steering and ABS were offered as options in October 1994, and the 6-speed 55SX and norrrally-asptraled dieset followed in June 1995. In June 1997 a minor facelift was undertaken which Included improvements to the suspension and steering and various cosmetic changes. This facelift also saw the introduction of fie ! 242 cc DOHC 1S-valve engine available In top of the range models.
Ait engines covered in this Manual are fitted with single- or double-overhead •camshaft engines, end all models have fully independent front and rear suspension. The distinguished lines of the bodywork together with tho high level rear lighting have made the Rat Punto a very popular small car.
Provided that regular servicing is earned out In accordance with tho manufacturer's recommendations, the Flat Punto should prove reliable and economical. The engine compartment is well-designed, and most of the items needing frequent attention are easily accessible.
The Fiat Punto Team
Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:
Authors
Sub-editor Page Make-up Workshop manager Photo Scans
Cover illustration & Une Art
Wiring diagrams

A.K. Legg laemimi
Spencer Drayton
Ian Barnes
Steve Churchill Paul Buckland
Steve Tanswell John Martin
Roger Healing
Matthew Marke
We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car's reliability and preserve its resale value.
Your Fiat Punto Manual
The aim ol this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle, It can do so-ln several ways. It can help you decide what worfc must be done (even should you choose to get It dons by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, It may even be quicker than booking tho car into a garage and going there twice, io leave and collect it. Perhaps mosl important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover Its labour and overheads, The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layoul can be understood, Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the 'left' or 'right' are In the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forward.
Acknowledgements Thanks are duo to the Champion Spark Plug Company, who supplied the Illustrations of various spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Oraper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped In the production of this manual. We take great pride In tho accuracy of information given In this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not Inform us. No liability oen be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or Injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Safety first! 0.5
Working on your ear can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning • Beware of burns from the exhau3t system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle. ~ always supplement the ' ' -jack with axle stands, or use ... drive-on i'j ramps. kr Never venture ™ under
a
car
vv/j/ch
Is only supported by a jack. • Take card if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire • Fuel Is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't (et fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of toots). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repainng or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock x ^ ^ ? , • Ignition HT _ " voltage can be ^ dangerous, ~ especially to > people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the f^ ignition system with fT") the engine running or ' J ' J the Ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous: they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut, • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. « Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream If necessary. Change out of oll-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame {including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found In gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with soch components It is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when cerlam types of synthetic rubber, found In some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc. are exposed to temperatures above 400;C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years, tfit gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.
The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steenng wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

A


Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any otfterpart of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Remember...
DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wrtstwatch etc. before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system, • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job. or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting toots which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play In or near a vehicle being worked on.

o.6 Roadside repairs
The following pages are Intended to help In dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair Information In the main chapters.
If your car won't start
and the starter motor
doesn't turn
If your car won't start
even though the starter
motor turns as normal
tf it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in P or N. Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by Jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car.
• Is there fuel In the tank? • Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don't normally suffer from damp.)

A

Check that the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by pushing them onto the plugs (petrol engine models).
B

Check that the wiring to the engine compartments is securely connected.
C

Check the security and condition of the battery terminals,
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray tike WD40II you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 0.7
I Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct | whatever made the battery go fiat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

t

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

2

The charging system (s not working property (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator Itself faulty).

3

The battery Itself is at fault (ehctrotyte low, or battery worn out).
When jump-starling a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
• Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
• Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
• Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.
Jump starting • Make sure that the booster battery Is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
• If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
• Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK. In the case of automatic transmission).
Make sure that the lump leads will not come into contact with the fan. drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine.
Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

o«i6 Weekly checks
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given In "Safety first" at the start of this manual. • Make sure thai the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp Is tight. Coirosion on the tray, retaining clomp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda, Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. • Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described In Chapter SA. • If the battery Is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repalrz.
Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying o layer of petroleum Jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected
fin %

I

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment, The exterior of the battery should be inspected penodlcaily for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

2

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A) to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

3

If corrosion (while, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post...
as well as the battery cable clamps
Electrical systems
• Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be Inoperative,
• Visually chock all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
fffjffflg^ " y°u A**^ check your "T™*! broke lights and Indicators ,HllMT[ unaided, back up to a wall or garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light shouid show
If
they are working property.

I

I? a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it Is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stop-lights have failed, it is passible that the switch has failed (see Chapter 9).

2

If more than one Indicator light or tail light has failed It is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault tn the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located behind the oddments tray on ihe facia. First unscrew the two screws and swivel Ihe tray down.

3

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out using the special plastic tool and fit a new fuse of tho correct rating (see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is importont that you find out why - a complete checking procedure Is given in Chapter 12.

ia«4 Component location - petrol models
Underbonnet view -1108 cc engine model
1 Engine oil filler
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Brake vacuum servo unit 4 Brake fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner
cover
6 Coolant expansion lank 7 Windscreen washer fluid reservoir 8 Front suspension strut upper mounting 9 Ignition coil cover 10 Engine wiring connector cover 11 Battery 12 ECU
Underbonnet view - 1242 cc (8-valve) engine model
1 Engine oil tiller
cap
2 Engine oil dipstick 3 Brake vacuum servo unit 4 Brake fluid
reservoir
5 Air cleaner cover 6 Coo/ant expansion tank 7 Windscreen washer
fluid
reservoir 8 Front suspension strut upper mounting 9 Ignition coil cover 10 Engine wiring connector cover 11 Battery 12 ECU

Component location - petrol models 1A.5
Underbonnet view - 1242 cc (16-valve) engine model
1
Engine
olt filler
cap
2
Engine
oil dipstick 3
Brake
fluid
reservoir
4
Power
steering fluid reservoir 5
Engine
wiring connector cover 6
Windscreen
washer
fluid
reservoir 7 Battery 8
Coolant
expansion
tank
9 Air cleaner
cover
10 Resonator 11 ECU
1
Oil filter
2
Sump
drain plug 3
Transmission
drain plug A
Electric
cooling Ian unit 5
Left-hand driveshaft
6
Intermediate shaft
7
Right-hand driveshaft
B
Front
suspension lower arms 9
Front
anti-roll
bar
10
Exhaust
downpipe 11
Front
brake calipers (2
Rear engine
mounting IS Radiator bottom hose
Front underbody view (diesel model shown, petrol model similar)

ia«8 Every 10 000 miles - petrol models
5.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then
bIbo
be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four psds must tie renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground
6 Underbody sealant check
I
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Alternatively position the car over an inspection pit. 2 Check the underbody. wheel housings and side sills for rust and/or damage to the under-body sealant. If evident, repair as necessary.
7 Hose and fluid leak check ^
I
1 Visually Inspect the engine joint laces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil (liter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that.
A leak In the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust~coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak
over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by refemng to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips ore In place and In good condition, Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious probioms In the luture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated, Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. 4 Inspect all 'he cooling system components {hoses. |olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the coolmg system will usually show up as white-or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gaskel with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank Is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deten orated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away Irom the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the fitter neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within tne engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Exhaust system check fe
1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure thai all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the Joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often bo traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come Into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings Otherwise separate the joints {if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
9 Driveshaft gaiter check
9.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
1
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto full lock, then s'owly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of Ihe outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber garters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see Illustration), If any damage or deterioration Is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8, Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of (he CV joints themselves by first holding (he driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints. wear In the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models 1A.13
20 Ignition system check
81
21 Engine management system check

A


Warning: Voltages produced by an electronic ignition system are considerably higher than those produced by conventional ignition systems. Extreme care must be taken when working on the system with the Ignition switched on. Persons with surgically-Implanted cardiac pacemaker devices should keep well clear of the ignition circuits, components and test oquipment. 1 The ignition system components should be checked for damage or deterioration as follows.
General component check 2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted. 3 Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping
the end
fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.
Ensure that the leads are i numbered before removing i them, to avoid confusion when refitting
4 Check Inside the end fitting for signs of corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the end fitting back onto the spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the plug. if not, remove the lead again and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end
of the spark plug. 5 Using a clean rag, wipe Ihe emlre length of the lead to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for bums, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, nor pull the lead lengthways - the conductor inside might break. 6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from the ignition coll. Again, pull only on the end fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same
manner as the spark plug end. Refit the bad securely on completion. 7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
ihe same
way. 8 if new spark plug (HT) leads are required, purchase a set for your specific car and engine. 9 Even with the ignition system In first-class condition, some engines may still occasionally experience poor starting attributable to damp ignition components. To disperse moisture, a water-dispersant aerosol should be liberally
Ignition timing -
check
and adjustment 10 Check the ignition timing as described In Chapter 58.
1 This check is part of the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, and Involves testing Ihe engine management system using special dedicated test equipment. Such testing will allow the test equipment to read any fault codes stored in the electronic control unit memory. 2 Unless a fault is suspected, this test te not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. 3 If access to suitable test equipment is not possible, make a thorough check of all ignition, fuel and emission control system components, hoses, and wiring, for security and obvious signs of damage. Further details of the fuet system, emission control system and ignition system can be .found In the relevant parts of Chapters 4 and 5.
22 Hinge and lock lubrication %
1
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate ail latches, locks and lock strikers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them If necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
23 Headlight beam adjustment % & ^
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beem-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of. and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door, 3 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car, then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marfcs on Ihe wall, if not. turn the adjustment screw located on the upper inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam
vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment.
24 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of all Instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.
Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain 6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch (where applicable), transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there Is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action Is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual gearbox models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vsgue or notchy. 11 On automatic transmission models, check that all Ihe gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest, if any problems are found, they should be referred to a Flat dealer. 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a drtveshaft joint, In which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 15 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever, and that It holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.