brake light FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Service Manual

9*12 Braking system
master cylinder mounting nuts, and tighten them securely. 10 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions, then refit them to the correct master cylinder ports, as noted before removal, and lighten the union nuts securely. 11 Refill tha master cylinder reservoir with new fluid, and bleed the complete hydraulic system as described In Section 11. 12 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly.
13 Hydraulic pipes and hoses - % renewal S§

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, 1 If any pipe or hose is to be renewed, minimise fluid loss by first removing the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten the cap down onto a piece of polythene to obtain
an airtight seal. Alternatively, flexible hoses can be sealed, If required, using a proprietary brake hose clamp; metal brake pipe unions can be plugged (if care Is taken not to allow dirt into the system) or capped immediately they are disconnected. Place a wad of rag under any union that is to be disconnected, to catch any spilt fluid-2 If a flexible hose Is to be disconnected, unscrew the brake pipe union nut before removing the spring clip which seeurea the hose to its mounting bracket. 3 To unscrew the union nuts, ll is preferable lo obtain a brake pipe spanner of the correct size; these are available from most large molor accessory shops. Failing this, a close-fitting open-ended spanner will be required, though if the nuts are tight or corroded, their flats may be rounded-off if the spanner slips. In such a case, a self-locking wrench is often the only way to unscrew a stubborn union, but It follows that Ihe pipe and the damaged nuts must be renewed on reassembly. Always clean a union and surrounding area before disconnecting it If disconnecting a compo-
nent with more than one union, make a carefJ note of the connections before disturbing
any
of them. 4 If a brake pipe Is to be renewed, it can b« obtained, cut to length and with the union nuts and end flares in place, from Fiat dealers. All that is then necessary is to bend It to shape, following the line of the original, baton fitting It to the vehicle. Alternatively, most motor accessory shops can make up bra Ha pipes from kits, bul this requires very carefii measurement of the original, to ensure (hat the replacement is of the correct length. Tha safest answer is usually to take the original lo the shop as a pattern. 5 On refitting, do not overtighten the union nuts. It is not necessary to exercise brute force to obtain a sound joint. 6 Ensure that the pipes and hoses an correctly routed, with no kinks, and that they are secured in the clips or brackets provided. After fitting, remove the polythene from lbs reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic system
88
described In Section 11. Wash off any split fluid, and check carefully for fluid leaks.

Suspension and steering 10*8
9.1 Prise the horn centre pad from the steering wheel hub unbolt the lower end of the damper from the trailing arm. 9 Lower the trailing arm gradually using a trolley jack, until the coil spring Is released from its lower seat on the trailing arm and its upper seat on the subframe. Make a note of the orientation of the coll spring, to aid correct refitting later. Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, lighten the damper lower retaining bolt to the specified torque. Trailing arm Note: The rear stub axles are integral with the trailing arm assemblies and cannot be renewed separately. Removal 11 With reference to Chapter 9. carry out the following: a) Remove the brake drum, shoes and adjuster assembly. b) Unbolt the brake hose union from the
rear
of the wheel cylinder. c) Unbolt the brake pipe mounting bracket from the trailing arm. 12 Refer to Section 7 and remove The rear hub and beanng assembly. 13 With reference to the relevant sub-Section, unbolt the lower end of Ihe damper from the trailing arm. 14 Raise the trailing arm using a trolley jack so that the coll spring Is compressed, then slacken and withdraw the trailing arm front mounting bolL 15 With reference to the previous sub-Section, gradually lower the trailing arm using a trolley lack and remove the coll spring. 16 Allow Ihe trailing arm to hang down, then pull the leading edge of the arm down from its mounting bracket. Refitting 17 Refitting Is a reversal of removal. Tighten all suspension fixings to the specified torque settings, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the roadwheeis -this prevents the damper and trailing arm bushes from being strained. 18 On completion, bleed the brake hydraulic system and adjust the operation of the handbrake, with reference to Chapter 9.
9.2 Unplug the wiring from the centre pad at the connector(s)
9 Steering wheel - % removal and refitting ^
Note: This procedure does not apply to vehicles fitted with an airbag A Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongly advisod to entrust to an authorised Fiat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbeg system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage. In addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check thet the alrbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
Removal 1 Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then prise the horn centre pad from the steering wheel hub. Use the blade of a screwdriver, padded with PVC tape to protect the steering wheel (see illustration) 2 Unplug the horn and (where applicable) radio/cassette control switch wiring from the centre pad at the connectors) (see illustration) 3 Turn the steering wheel to its centre position, so that the roadwheeis are pointing straight ahead. 4 Make alignment marks between the steering wheel and the end of the steering column shaft, to aid correct refitting later, 5 Relieve the staking and then slacken and remove tne steenng wheel securing nut (see
9.5 Slacken and remove the steering wheel securing nut Illustration). Discard the nut as a new item must used on refitting. 6 Lift the steering wheel off the column splines. If it is tight, tap il near the centre, usrg the palm of your hand, or twist it from
side to
side, whilst pulling upwards to release il ton the shaft splines. If the wheel is particular tight, a suitable puller should be used.
Refitting 7 Before commencing refitting, lightly eca. Ihe surfaces of the direction indicator cancelling mechanism with grease. 8 Refitting is a reversal of ren>oval.
bearing a
mind the following points: a) Use a new steering wheel
securing not
and tighten it to the specified
torque.
Ensure that its outer collar
Is adequate^
staked to the column shaft
using a
hammer and punch (see Illustrations). b) Ensure that the direction Indicator
swiith
is in the central (cancelled/off)
position,
otherv/ise the sivitch may be damaged X the wheel Is refitted. c) Align the marks made on the
wheel and
Ihe steering column shaft during removeI 9 Note that if necessary, the position of tf* steering wheel on the column shaft cant* | altered in order to centralise the wheel (enstn that the front roadwheeis aro pointing
In the
straight-ahead position), by moving the vMti the required number of splines on the
sfcafc
Fine adjustment can be carried out by adjusting the length of both track-rwa simultaneously, but this operation is best entrusted to a Rat dealer or tyre specialist
9.8a Fit a new steering wheet securing nut... 9.3b ... and stake it to the steering column shaft using o hammer and punch

Suspension and steering 10*11
13.11b ... and left-hand steering gear-to-subframe bolts
hooked onto the engine lifting eyelet on the cylinder head. Working underneath the vehicle, unbolt and remove the transmission-lo-subframe rear mounting bracket. 13 Position a trolley jack under the right hand skle of the subframe crossmember. Raise the jack to take the weight of the crossmember
and
the attached components. 14 With reference to Section 4, slacken and remove the two bolts that secure the suspension lower arm rear bush to the subframe. Slacken and withdraw the subframe-to-bodywork bolt, located adjacent to the rear of the suspension lower arm. Throad two flange head bolts of the same thread size, but approximately 25 mm longer into the vacated holes, then carefully lower
the
trolley jack and allow ihe subframe to rest on the heads of the temporary bolts (see (lustration), 15 Repeat the operations in paragraphs 13 end 14 at the left-hand side of the vehicle. On completion, the subframe should be resting at
&
height approximately 25 mm lower than normal. 16 The additional clearance will now permit the steering gear pinion to be lowered away from the bulkhead. When the end of the pinion has cleared Ihe aperture, manoeuvre the entire steering gear assembly through the *tiae?arch.
Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
the
following points: s) Remote the temporary bolts and refit the original length fixings.
13.14 Slacken and remove the subframe-to-bodywork bolts (arrowed)
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque settings. c) Refill the hydraulic system with the specified grade and quantity of power steering fluid (see Lubricants and fluids In Weekly checks), then thoroughly bleed the system as described in Section 15. d) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest oppor-tunity by a Flat dealer or a tyre specialist.
14 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal <
Note: New gaiter retaining clips should be used on refitting. 1 Remove the relevant track-rod end as described in Section 17. 2 If not already done, unscresv the track-rod end locknut from Ihe end of the track-rod. 3 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter on the track-rod, then release the gaiter securing clips. Slide the gailer from the steering gear, and off the end of the track-rod. 4 Thoroughly clean tho track-rod and the steering gear housing, usrng fine abrasive paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or sharp edges, which might damage the new gaiter sealing lips on installation. Scrape off all the grease from the old gaiter, and apply it to the track-rod inner balljoint. (This assumes that grease has not been lost or contaminated as a result of damage to the old gaiter. Use fresh crease if In doubt.) 5 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track-rod. and locate it on the steering gear housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter with the mark made on the track-rod prior to removal, then secure it in position with new retaining clips. 6 Screw the track-rod end locknut onto the end of the track-rod. 7 Refit the track-rod end as described in Section 17.
15 Power steering hydraulic system • bleeding ^
General 1 The following symptoms indicate that there is air present In the power steering hydraulic system: a) Generation of air bubbles in fluid reservoir. b) Clicking noises from power steering pump. c) Excessive buzzing or groaning from power steering pump. 2 Note that when the vehicle Is stationary, or while moving the steering wheel slowly, a hissing noise may be produced In the steering gear or the fluid pump. This noise is inherent in the system, and does not indicate any cause for concern.
Bleeding 3 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Check the fluid level in the power steering fluid reservoir (bear in mind that the vehicle will be tilted, so the level cannot be read accurately), and if necessary top-up to just above the relevant level mark. 5 Have an assistant tum the steering quickly from lock to lock, and observe tho fluid level, if the fluid level drops, add more fluid, and repeat the operation until the fluid level no longer drops. Failure to achieve this within a reasonable period may indicate a leak in the system. 6 Stan the engine and repeat the procedure described In the previous paragraph. 7 Once the fluid level has stabilised, and all air has been bled from the system, lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Power steering pump - Sk removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or an old poultry baster. 2 Remove the clip and disconnect the rubber fluid supply hose from the port on the top of the power steering pump. Be prepared for an amount of fluid loss • position a container underneath the port and pad the surrounding area with absorbent rags. 3 Slacken the union and disconnect the fluid delivery hose from the side of the power steering pump. Again, be prepared for an amount of fluid loss. 4 Unscrew tho clamp bolt and through-bolt at either end of the drivebelt guard, then detach Ihe guard from the power steering pump (see illustrations). 5 Partially unscresv the two power steering pump mounting bolts then rotate the pump towards the engine slightly, to release the tension from the belt. Carefully ease the drivebelt from the pump pulley.
16.4a Unscrew the clamp bolt...

Body electrical systems 12*3
3.4 The auxiliary fusebox, located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel auxiliary fusebox, which is located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel (see Illustration). 5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire (see illustration). 6 To remove a fuse, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. 7 Using the plastic tool clipped to the main fusebox lid, pull the fuse from its location. 8 Spare fuses are provided in the main fusebox. 9 Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the correct rating (fuse ratings are specified on the inside of the fusebox cover flap). Never substitute a fuse of a higher rating, or make temporary repairs using wire or metal foil; more serious damage, or even fire, could result. 10 Note that the fuses are colour-coded as follows. Refer to the wiring diagrams for details of the fuse ratings used and the circuits protected. Colour Rating Orange 5A Red 10A Blue 15A Yellow 20A Clear or White 25A Green 30A 11 The radio/cassette player fuse is located In the rear of the unit, and can be accessed after removing the radio/cassette player -refer to Section 12for greater detail.
Relays 12 A relay is an electncally-operated switch, which Is used for the following reasons: 4 A relay can switch a heavy current remotely from the circuit in which the current is flowing, therefore allowing the use of lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.
b)
A relay can receive more than one control input, unlike a mechanical switch. c) A relay can have a timer function - for example, the intermittent wiper relay. 13 The main and optional equipment relays are located in the main and auxiliary toseboxes (see Fuses). A number of additional relays may be fitted, depending on model and specification. These are generally mounted
3.5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire adjacent lo the component being controlled; e.g. the radiator cooling fan relay(s) are mounted on a bracket next the cooling fan itself. 14 The direction Indicator/hazard warning flasher unit is mounted on the underside of the steering column slalk switch unit. It can be accessed by removing the steering column lower shroud panel (see illustration). 15 If a circuit or system controlled by a relay develops a fault, and the relay is suspect, operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it click as it is energised, if this is Ihe case, the fault lies with the components or wiring of the system. If the relay is not being energised, then either the relay is not receiving a main supply or a switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty. Testing is by the substitution of a known good unit, but be careful - while some relays are identical in appearance and in operation, others look similar but perform different functions. 16 To remove a relay, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can then simply be pulled out from the socket, and pushed back into position.
4 Buibs (exterior lights) -renewal
General 1 Whenever a bulb is renewed, note the following points:
3.14 Removing the direction indlcator/ha2ard warning flasher unit
a) Ensure that the relevant electrical circuit is isolated before removing a bulb. If in doubt, disconnect the battery negative lead before starting work. b) Remember that, if the circuit has just been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot. c) A/ways check the bulb contacts and holder, ensuring that there is clean metal-to-metal contact between the bulb and its live contacts) and earth. Clean off
any
corrosion or dirt before fitting a nevt bulb. d) Wherever bayonet-type bulbs are fitted, ensure that the live contacts) bear firmly against the bulb contact. e) Always ensure that the new bulb is of the correct rating (see Specifications), and that it is completely clean before fitting it; this applies particularly to headlight/foglight bulbs (see following
0 Pay attention to the orientation when fitting multi-filament bulbs (e.g. combined tail/brake light bulbs) • incorrect fitting will cause the filaments to illuminate In the wrong sequence.
Headlight 2 Open the bonnet. Ensure that the headlights are turned off at the stalk switch. Models with single reflector 3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb (see illustration). 4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit (see Illustration).
4.3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb 4.4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit