Chapter 12 part A FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Manual Online

6*4 Clutch
7.17 Using a clutch friction plate centralising toot 11 Examine the machined beanng surfaces of the pressure plate and of the flywheel; they should be clean, completely flat, and free from scratches or scoring. If either is discoloured from excessive heat, or shows signs of cracks, it should be renewed - although minor damage of this nature can sometimes be polished away using emery paper 12 Check that the release bearing contact surface rotates smoothly and easily, with no sign of noise or roughness. Also check that the surface itself is smooth and unworn, with no signs of cracks, pitting or scoring. If there Is any doubt about its condition, the bearing must be renewed.
Refitting 13 On reassembly, onsure that the bearing surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate are completely clean, smoolh. and tree from oil or grease. Use solvent to remove any protective grease from new components. 14 Fit the friction plate so that its spring hub assembly faces away from the flywheel; there may also be a marking showing which way round the plate Is to be refitted. 15 Refit the pressure plate assembly, aligning the marks made on dismantling (If the original pressure plate Is re-used), and locating the pressure plate on Its three
locating dowels. Fit the pressure plate bolts, but tighten them only finger-tight, so thai the friction plate can skill be moved. 16 The friction plate must now be centralised, so that when the transmission Is refitted, Its Input shaft will pass through the splines at the centre of the friction plate. 17 Centralisation can be achieved by passing a screwdriver or other long bar through the friction plate and into the holo in the crankshaft; the friction plate can then be moved around until it is centred on the crankshaft hole. Alternatively, a clutch-aligning tool can be used to eliminate the guesswork; these can be obtained from most accessory shops (see illustration). A home-made aligning tool can be fabricated from a length of metal rod or wooden dowel which fits closely Inside the crankshaft hole, and has insulating tape wound around it to match Ihe diameter of the friction plate splined hole. 18 When the friction plate is centralised, tighten tho pressure plate bolts evenly and In a diagonal sequence to the specified torque setting. 19 Apply a Ihin smear of molybdenum dlsulphide grease to the splines of the friction plate and the transmission input shaft, and also to the release bearing bore and release fork shaft. 20 Refit the transmission as described In Chapter 7A.
8 Clutch release mechanism - & removal, inspection J and refitting ^
Removal 1 Unless the complete engine/transmission is to be removed from the car and separated lor major overhaul (see Chapter 2D), the clutch release mechanism can be reached by removing the transmission as described In Chapter 7A.
2 Unhook the release bearing from the fork and slide it off Ihe guide tubo (see illustration). 3 Using circlip pliers extract the circllp Irom the top of the release fork shaft. 4 Note the position of the arm then slide it
oW
the splines. 5 Using a small drift, tap out the upper release shaft bush from the transmission casing (see illustration). 6 Lift the release shaft from Ihe lower bush then remove it Irom inside Ihe transmission casing.
7 Extract the lower bush from 1he casing.
inspection 8 Check (he release mechanism, renewing any worn or damaged parts. Carofully checH all bearing surfaces and points of contact. 9 When checking the release bearing ilsell. note that it Is often considered worthwhile to renew it as a matter of course. Check thai the contact surface rotates smoothly and easily, with no sign of roughness, and that Ihe surface itself is smooth and unworn, with no signs of cracks, pitting or sconng. If there is any doubt about Its condition, the bearing must be renewed, Refitting 10 Apply a smear of molybdenum dlsulphide grease to the shaft pivot bushes and the contact surfaces of the release fork. 11 Tap the lower bush into the casing and refit the release fork and shaft. 12 Slide the upper bush down the shaft and tap it into the casing making sure lhat the ridge engages with the cut-out. then slide the arm on the splines the correct way round. 13 Refit the circlip in the shaft groove. 14 Slide the release bearing onto the guide tube and engage it with the fork. 15 Refil the transmission as described in Chapter 7A.
8.2 Removing the release bearing from the fork and guide lube 8.5 Clutch release shaft (1) and upper shaft bush (2)

7A»1
Chapter 7 Part A:
Manual transmission
Contents
Gearchange lever and linkage - removal and refitting 2 General information 1 Manual transmission oil level check See Chapter 1A or 18 Manual transmission oil renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B
Manual transmission overhaul • general information 4 Manual transmission • removal and refitting 3 Reversing light switch • testing, removal and refitting 5
Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable
for Faiity
easy,
suitable FaMycffficult, ^ Difficult,
sutable fa-
Verycfifficutt, ^
novice with
little
1
for beginner with suitable
for
competent experienced DIY * * < siitable
for
expert
DIY
jR or professional ^ experience 1
some
experience DIYmechanic ^ mechanic * * < siitable
for
expert
DIY
jR or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Designation: 1108 cc petrol engine 1242 cc petrol engine Non-turbo diesel engine Turbo diesel engine
Torque wrench settings Gear lever support nut Gear lever to mounting Reverse gear inhibitor cable to transmission Reversing light switch Selector rod-to-gear lever nut Speedometer drive Transmission-to-engine bolt/nut
Transverse mounted, front wheel drive layout with integral transaxle differential/final drive. 5 or 6 forward speeds, 1 reverse speed
C.S14.5.10 (5-speed) or C.514.6.10 (6-speed) C.514.5.1Q/13 (5-speed) C.514.5.13 (5-speed) C.510.5.17 (5-speed)
Nm Ibftl 6 4 49 36 30 22 40 30 17 13 12 9 es 63
1 Genera) Information
The transmission is contained In a cast-aluminium alloy casing bolted to the engine's left-hand end, and consists of the gearbox end final drive differential, Drive Is transmitted from the crankshaft via the clutch to the Input shaft, which has a spiined extension to accept the clutch friction
plate, and rotates in roller bearings at its right-hand end and ball bearings at its left-hand end (on 6-speed versions the left-hand extension rotates In a roller bearing). From the input shaft, drive is transmitted to tho output shaft, which rotates In roller bearings at Its right-hand end. and ball bearings at its left* hand end (on 6-speed versions the left-hand extension rotates in ball bearings). From the output shaft, the drive is transmitted to the differential crownwheel, which rotates with the differential case and gears in taper roller bearings, thus driving the sun gears and
driveshafts. The rotation of the differential gears on their shaft allows the inner roadwheel to rotate at a slower speed than the outer roadwheel when the car is cornering. The Input and output shaftB are arranged side by side, parallel to the crankshaft and driveshafts, so that their gear pinion teeth are In constant mesh. In the neutral position, the relevant input shaft and output shaft gear pinions rotate freely, so that drive cannot be transmitted to the output shaft and crownwheel.

7A*2 Manual transmission
Gear selection is via a floor-mounted lever and selector rod mechanism (seo Illustration). The selector rod causes the appropriate selector fork to move its respective synchro-sleeve along the shaft, to lock the gear to the synchro-hub. Since the synchro-hubs are splined to the Input and output shafts, this locks the gear to the shaft, so that drive can be transmitted. To ensure that gear-changing can be made quickly and quietly, a synchro-mesh system Is fitted to all forward gears,
2 Gearchange lever and linkage -
removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands {see Jacking and veh/cte support). 2 Remove the exhaust system with reference to Chapter 4D.
3 Unbolt the exhaust heatshield and remove It from under the vehicle. 4 Disconnect the gearchange cable and rod from the transmission and from the body. Also disconnect the reverse inhibitor cable. 5 Unscrew the single screw and remove the centre console from inside the vehicle. 6 Unscrew the front mounting securing the gearchange lower cover to the body. 7 Under Ihe vehicle unscrew the lower cover mounting bolts, then lower Ihe assembly and remove from under the vehlole. 8 The gearchange lever may be removed by disconnecting the cables and removing the pivot bolt. Note the location of the spacers and washers to ensure correct reassembly. If necessary the bushes may be renewed by unscrewing the mounting nuts. 9 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but apply a little multi-purpose grease to the bearing surfaces.
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.
3 Manual transmission - & removal and refitting § S
Petrol models
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surlace to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from (he anti-theft alarm located next to the battery, then unbolt and remove the alarm. 3 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 6 On models with a cable operated clutch,
1.4 Gearchange lever and linkage 1 Gear lever sliding part 3 Gear selector control rod 5 Gear selector link rod 2 Reverse gear inhibition 4 Gear engagement control 6 Gear selector control rod cable cable 7 Reverse gear inhibition device

7A«4 Manual transmission
33 Remove lha air cleaner front section and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4C. Also disconnect the injection pump vacuum pipe from the clips on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. This work is necessary in order to fit the engine hoist 34 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley Jack and block of wood beneath the engine. 35 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower it and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 36 Unscrew the starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. 37 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 39 Trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side ot the engine. If a mechanical speedometer Is fitted unscrew the knurled collar and disconnect the cabte from the transmission. 40 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover. 41 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft to the transmission flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 42 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 43 Move the swrvel hub assembly outwards and support the driveshaft away from Ihe transmission. 44 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the Inner end of the right-hand driveshaft to the intermediate shaft flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 45 Remove the intermediate driveshaft with reference to Chapter 8. 46 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle.
47 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body then unscrew Ihe bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 48 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolts from the bellhousing and pull the transmission away from the engine.

A


Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that It remains steady o/i the jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft
1$
fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate.
Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Appiy a smear* of high-meiting-point grease to the clutch friction piate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. b) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
4 Manual transmission overhaul -general Infomtatlon
Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult and Involved Job for the DIY home mechanic. In addition to dismantling and reassembling many small parts, clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed by selecting shims and spacers. Internal transmission components are also often difficult to obtain, and in many Instances, extremely expensive. Because of this, If the transmission develops a fault or becomes noisy. Ihe best course of action is to have the unit overhauled by a specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange reconditioned unit. Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the more experienced mechanic to overhaul the transmission, provided the special tools are available, and the Job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner, so that nothing is overlooked.
The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external clrclip pliers, bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a sat of pin punches, a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench 8od a vice will be required. During dismantling o1 the transmission, make careful notes of how each component
1$
fitted, to make reassembly easier and more accurate. Before dismantling the transmission, it will help if you have some idea what area is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely related to specific areas In the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Fault Finding Section at the end of this manual for more Information.
5 Reversing light switch -testing, removal and refitting ||
Testing 1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a plunger-type switch screwed into the front of the transmission casing. If a fault develops, first ensure that Ihe circuit fuse has not blown. 2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring connector, and use a multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test circuit to check that there is continuity between the switch terminals only when reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, and there are no obvious breaks or other damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
Removal 3 Access to the reversing light switch Is best achieved from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then unscrew It from the transmission casing.
Refitting 5 Refit the switch and tighten securely. 6 Reconnect the wiring then lower the vehicle to the ground.

7B«1
Chapter 7 Part B:
Automatic transmission
Contents
Accelerator pedal micro-switch(es) - checking and adjustment II Automatic transmission filter and fluid change See Chapter 1A Automatic transmission fluid level check See Weekly checks Automatic transmission • overhaul 12 Automatic transmission • removal and refining 2 Bectro-magnetic clutch - removal, inspection and refitting 3 BectrO'fnagnetic clutch brushes- removal, inspection and refitting . 4
Electronic control unit - removal and refitting 5 Gear selector cable - adjustment 6 Gear selector cable - removal and refitting 9 General information 1 Kickdown cable - adjustment 7 Kickdown cable - removal and refitting 6 Transmission oil pump - removal and refitting 10
Degrees of difficulty

Easy,
suitable for novice
with
ittle experience ^
Party
easy,
suitable for beginner
with
^r someexperienoe ^
Faiily
difficult,
^ suitable
for
competent
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult, suitable
for fe, experienced DIY >8J mechanic
Verydfficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
General Type Ratios (at transmission): Lowest Highest Final drive
Torque wrench settings Esnh cable Control unit Sectro-magnetic clutch to flywheel Transmission-to-engine bolt/nut ..
ECVT (Electronic Continuously Variable Transmission)
2.503 0.497 4.647:1
Nm Ibftt 14 10 5 4 34 25 85 63
1 Genera) information
I The automatic transmission fitted is designated ECVT (Electronic Continuously Variable Transmission). The main components
01
the transmission are an electro-magnetic dutch, a variable-ratio coupling, a final drive/ differential unit, and the associated control mechanisms (see illustrations overleaf) 2 The variable-ratio coupling consists of two pulleys and a flexible metal drivebelt. The effective diameter of the two pulleys can be varied to provide different transmission ratios between them. 3 During normal driving, the transmission automatically selects the ratio giving the best
compromise between economy and speed. When the driver depresses the accelerator pedal to the floor, a kickdown effect is provided, and the transmission selects a lower ratio for improved acceleration. 4 The gear selector control resembles that fitted to conventional automatic transmissions. The control positions are as follows: P (Parking) The transmission is mech-anically locked by the engage-ment of a pawl with a toothed segment on the driven pulley. R (Reverse) Reverse gean's engaged, N (Neutral) The transmission is In neutral. D (Drive) Normal driving position. Trans-mission ratio is varied automat-ically to suit prevailing speed and load.
L (Low) Prevents the transmission
moving into high ratios. Provides maximum acceleration end maximum engine braking. 5 The engine can only be started In positions P and N. A warning buzzer sounds If the selector is in any position other than P when the ignition is switched off or when the driver's door is opened. 6 The electro-magnetic clutch consists of a driving element boiled to the engine flywheel, and a driven element spiined to the transmission Input shaft. The degree of coupling between the (wo elements Is determined by the intensity of a magnetic field generated by a current passing through windings in the driven element. The magnetic field acts on a layer of metallic powder between the driving and driven elements. When no magnetic field is present, the powder is loose and the two elements are effectively

7B*4 Automatic transmission
2 Automatic transmission - ^ removal and refitting St
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels, 2 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described In Chapter 5A. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet duct as described In Chapter 4A. 4 Disconnect the kickdown cable at the sector on the throttle housing and detach It from the mounting on the camshaft cover. Also release the cable from the support on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the wiring connectors on the transmission. 6 Disconnect the fluid inlet and outlet Unas from the heat exchanger on top of the transmission. 7 Pull the fluid level dipstick from Its tube on the front of the transmission and tape over the top of the tube to prevent dirt entry. 8 Unscrew and remove the retaining pin and disconnect the speed selector cable from the top of the transmission. 9 Unscrew the upper bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 10 Unscrew the upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 11 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively UBO a trolley jack and block of wood beneath the engine, 12 Remove the screws and remove the front wheel arch liner from under the left-hand wheel arch. 13 Unscrew the nut securing the earth cablo to the transmission. 14 Using a punch drive out the roll pins securing both driveshafts to the final drive output shafts. 15 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 16 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and slide the inner end of the driveshaft from the splines on the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the gaiters. 17 Unscrew the lambdafoxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position it In a safe place to prevent damage. 18 Unscrew ihe nuts securing the downpipe to Ihe exhaust manifold, then lower It and suppon on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 19 Unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing.
3-2 Locking the flywheel when removing the electromagnetic clutch 20 Unscrew the remaining bolt securing the staner motor to the transmission 21 Unbolt and remove Ihe lower flywheel cover from the transmission. 22 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting lo the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 23 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body thon unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 24 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the bellhouslng and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle.

A


Warning: Support the transmission to ensure that It remains steady on the Jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft and pump shaft are fully withdrawn from the electromagnetic clutch housing.
Refitting 25 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a} Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the splines of the transmission input shaft and oil pump driveshaft.
3.6 Checking the resistance of the clutch windings 1 Slip rings
0) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the
specified
torque, where given, c) Renew both driveshaft roll pins.
3 Electro-magnetic clutch • & removal, inspection 5. and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove Ihe transmission as described n Section 2. 2 Turn the flywheel so that two of the lour mounting bolts are accessible, Hold tha flywheel stationary then unscrew Ihe tvrt bolts. To hold the flywheel, Insert a wida bladed screwdriver In the ring gear teeth or alternatively use a piece of angle iron against one of the retaining bolts temporarily Inserted in the cylinder block (see illustration). 3 Turn the crankshaft half a turn and unscrew the remaining bolts, then withdraw the electromagnetic clutch.
Inspection 4 Turn the driven element by means of tha slip rings, and check that the bearing is not noisy or rough. 5 Inspect the slip rings for burning or other damage. Clean them if necessary using fid and a clean rag. 6 Check the resistance of the clutch windings, using an ohmmetor connected across the slip rings (see Illustration). The resistance at 20*0 should be 2 to 4 ohms. 7 Check the Insulation of the windings, using an ohmmeter connected between either sip ring and the body of the clutch (see illustration). Resistance should be Infinity. 8 If the clutch fails any of the foregoing checks, renew it. Apart from the brush gear, Individual spares are not available.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal but tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
windings

7B*6 Automatic transmission
Gear selector cable -adjustment
1 Remove the battery and tray as described In Chapter 5A for access to the transmission. 2 Disconnect the selector cable from the lever on Ihe transmission. 3 Move the selector fever inside the vehicle to the N (Neutral) position, then move the lever on the transmission to Its central (Neutral) position. Locate the cable end over the lever. If the cable end fitting does not line up exactly with the hole In Ihe lever, loosen the adjustment nut and reposition the end fitting. 4 With the adjustment correct reconnect tha cable to the lever, then move the selector lever to the P (Park) position. Check that the lever on the transmission has also moved to the P position. 6 Refit the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A. 6 Road test the vehicle, and check for correct operation in all selector lever positions.
9 Gear selector cable -removal and refitting at
7 Inside the vehicle disconnect the selector cable from the bottom of the selector lever (hen remove it from the support bracket, a Withdraw the cable into the engine compartment, and remove it.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust the cable as described in Section 8. 10 Check that It is only possible to start the engine in positions P and N. Reposition the selector lever switch If necessary. 11 Road test the vehicle, and check for correct operation In ell selector lever positions.
10 Transmission oil pump - & mnvtiifll rAtiMlitA removal a/id refitting
Removal 1 Using an Allen key. unscrew the screw and remove the selector lever knob from the lever. 2 Remove the oddment tray and the ashtray. 3 Remove the screws and withdraw the centre console and selector mechanism cover. 4 Unscrew the mounting screws, slightly lift the centre console, then disconnect the wiring and remove the console, 5 Remove the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A for access to the transmission, 6 Disconnect the selector cable from the lever on the transmission.
Removal 1 Apply the handbrake, then lack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the left-hand wheel. 2 Unscrew the screws and remove the wheel arch liner. 3 Working through the left-hand wheel arch, remove Ihe three bolts which secure the oil pump. 4 Attach a slide hammer to the oil pump, using the two tapped holes provided. Withdraw the pump using the slide hammer. Be prepared for some oil spillage. Recover the gasket end O-ring (see illustrations). 5 If the pump is defective, it must be renewed; no spares are available.
Refitting 6 Before refitting Ihe oil pump, clean Ihe mating surfaces of the transmission and pump. 7 Rt the oil pump, U9ing a new gasket and a new O-ring. Secure the pump with the three bolts.
8 Refit the wheel arch liner, then refit tto wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. 9 Check the transmission fluid level » described earlier in this Section, and top-upif necessary.
11 Accelerator pedal & mfcro-Bwftcb(es) -checking
and
adjustment ^
1 Correct adjustment of the micro-awtlch which senses the accelerator pedal position s essential for correct operation of the clutch.
A
quick check can be made by listening for the switch clicking as the accelerator a depressed. For an accurate check, proceed as follows. 2 Disconnect Ihe mlcroswitch wiring connector (nside the vehicle. Connect a continuity tester across the terminals of the switch, located at the top of (he pedal box (see Illustration}. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A. 4 With the accelerator pedal releassd, th« switch must be closed (zero resistance). Slowty depress the pedal, and check that the switch opens when the throttle valve on the throttle housing is 30° open. This will occur when the pedal has travelled between 3 and 7 mm. Adjust the switch position if necessary. 5 If the switch is permanently open or permanently closed, and adjustment makes no difference, renew ft. 6 Remake the original wiring connections on completion,
12 Automatic transmission -overhaul
Apart from the operations described earlier in this Section, transmission overhaul should be entrusted to a Rat dealer or transmission specialist.
10.4a Using a slide hammer to remove the oil pump from the transmission 10.4b Automatic transmission oil pump O-dng (1), housing (2) and gasket (3) 11.2 Continuity tester connected ecross the accelerator pedal micro-switch

6*172

Chapter 8
Driveshafts
Contents
Oriveshaft gaiter check See Chapter 1A or 1B General information 1 Oriveshaft overhaul and rubber gaiter renewal 3 intermediate driveshaft - removal and refitting 4 Driveshafts - removal and refitting 2
Degrees of difficulty

Easy,
suitable for ^ novtoewithittle experience ^
Fatly
easy,
suitable for beginner with
some experience
^

Fairty
difficult, suitable
tor
competent OtYmechanlc

Difficult,
suitable for experienced DIY mechanic ^
Veiydfficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Lubrication lubricant type
Torque wrench settings Driveshaft nut* All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Roadwheel bolts Suspension strut-to-hub carrier bolts Track-rod balljolnt-to-hub carrier 'Use a new nut.
Unequal-length, solid steel shafts, splined to Inner and outer constant velocity joints. Intermediate shaft with support bearing on turbo diesel models with equal length driveshafts.
Fiat specification grease, supplied with gaiter repair kit
Nm Ibfft
240 177 280 207 85 63 70 52 40 30
1 General information
Power is transmitted from the differential to
Ihe
roadwheels by the driveshafts. via inboard and outboard constant velocity (CV) joints (we illustrations). An intermediate drive shaft, with its own support bearing is fitted between the gearbox output and right-hand drive shafts on turbo desei models (see Illustration overleaf). This layout has the effect of equalising driveshaft angles at sll suspension positions and reduces tfveshaft flexing, which improves directional stability, particularly under acceleration. The outer Rzeppa type CV joints allow smooth transmission of drive to the wheels at all steering and suspension angles. Drive Is transmitted by means of a number of radially static steel balls that run In grooves between
the two halves of the joint. The type of inboard CV joint fitted is model dependant. Those fitted to all except the turbo diesel models are of the plunge-cup type; drive is transmitted across the joint by means of three rollers, mounted on the driveshaft in a tripod arrangement, that are radially static but are free to slide in the grooved plunge cup.
The inboard CV joints fitted to turbo diesel models are of the Rzeppa type, similar to those at the outboard end of the driveshaft. On the right-hand driveshafl, the joint is bolted directly to the end of the intermediate driveshaft flange. On the left-hand driveshaft, the joint is bolted to the transmission output shaft flange.
1.1a Cross section of driveshaft - petrol and non-turbo diesel models A Transmission side B Roadwheef side

I
8*4 Driveshafts
3.3 Using pair of circlip pliers, expand the circlip that holds the driveshaft in place
Turbo diesel models 4 Mark the relationship between the joint and the driveshaft using a scriber or a dab of paint. Attach a slide hammer to the dnveshaft nut thread. 5 Draw the joint off the driveshaft using the slide hammer, Use just enough effort to overcome the tension of the internal circlip.
Inboard CV joint removal All models except turbo dieseis 6 Al the inboard end of the driveshaft. use a hammer and centre punch to mark the relationship between Ihe shaft and |olnt. Remove the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers, then using a three-legged puller if required, draw Ihe tripod joint off the end of the driveshaft. Ensure that the legs of Ihe puller bear upon the cast centre section of the joint, not the roller beanngs (see illustration) Turbo diesel models 7 Al the inboard end of Ihe driveshaft. use a hammer and centre punch lo mark the relationship between the shaft and joint. Remove the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers, then carefully slide the CV joint from the end ot the shaft. Take great care to prevenl the
cage and bail bearings from falling out • secure the joint components together with wire or a nylon cable-tie. 8 Remove the washer then slide the flange from the end of the shaft.
Inspection 9 Slide both rubber gaiters off the driveshaft and discard them: It is recommended that new ones are fitted on reassembly as a matter of course. Recover the flexible washers (where fitted), making a note of their fitted positions, to aid correct refitting later. 10 Thoroughly clean the driveshaft splines, and CV joint components with paraffin or a suitable solvent, taking care not to destroy any alignment marks made during removal. 11 Examine Ihe CV joint components for wear and damage: in particular, check the balls and corresponding grooves for pitting and corrosion. If evidence of wear Is visible, then the joint must be renewed. Note that if the outboard CV joint Is to be renewed on turbo diesel models, it must be matched to the driveshaft using the colour-coded paint markings. 12 Where applicable, examine the tripod joint components for wear. Check thai the three rollers are free lo rotate without resistance and are not worn, damaged or corroded. The rollers are supported by arrays of needle bearings: wear or damage will show up as play In the rollers and/or roughness in rotation. If wear is discovered, the tnpod joint must be renewed. 13 Fit a new rubber gaiter (and where applicable, flexible washer) to the inboard end of the driveshaft and secure it In place on the shaft with a clip (see illustration).
Inboard CV joint - refitting
All models except turbo dieseis 14 Using Ihe alignment marks made during removal, fit the tripod joint onto the splines of the driveshaft. Tap It Into position using a soft faced mallet. To ensure that the tripod Joint rollers and driveshaft splines are not damaged, use a socket with an internal diameter slightly larger than I hat of the driveshafl as a drift. Refit the circlip. 15 Slide the gaiter over tho tripod joint and pack the gaiter with grease from the service kit.
3.6 Draw the tripod joint off the end of the driveshaft 3.13 FH s new rubber gaiter to the inboard end of the driveshaft and secure It in place with a clip
Caution: Do not allow grease to come
into
contact with vehicles paintwork, es discolouring may rasutt. Turbo diesel models 16 Slide the flange and washer onto the end of the shaft, then fit the joint Into position on the driveshaft splines, using the alignment marks made during removal. Fit the circlip. ' 17 Pack the gaiter with grease from His service kit, then slide the gaiter over the joint. Briefly lift the lip of the gaiter to expel ail the air from the joint, then secure the gaiter over the joint with a new clip. Caution: Do not allow grease to come
Into
contact with the vehicle's paintwork, as discolouring may result.
Outboard CV joint - refitting 18 Fit a new rubber gaiter to the outboard end of the driveshaft and secure it place with a dp, 19 Pack the CV joint with grease from Ihe service kit, pushing It into the ball grooves and expelling any air that may be trapped underneath. 20 Lubricate the splines of the drive shaft with a smear of grease, then whilst splaying the circlip open with a pair ot circlip pile*, insert the driveshaft into CV joint, observing the alignment marks made during removal. Note: On turbo diesel models, the circlip snaps into the CV Joint groove as Ifte driveshaft is inserted - no circlip pliers are required. Ensure that the circlip snaps securely Into place: pull on the shaft to check that it is held firmly In position. 21 Pack additional grease Into the joint to displace any air pockets, then slide the rubber gaiter over the joint. Briefly lift the lip ol the gaiter to expel all the air from Ihe joint, then secure it In place with a clip. 22 Refit the driveshaft (see Section 2).
4 Intermediate driveshaft - % removal and refitting J;
Note 1: This procedure applies only to turbo diesel engined models. Note 2: The intermediate shaft and
bearing
are not available as separate spares and cac only be renewed as a comptefe assembly.
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of Ihe car and support It securely
on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheei(s). 2 Unbolt the inboard end of the right*hand driveshaft from the intermediate shaft
flange, as
described In Section 2. Suspend the dis-connected end of the driveshaft from a conven-ient point on the subframe, using wire or a cable-tie. to avoid straining the joint and gaiter. 3 Drain the oil from the transmission, with reference to Chapter 1B.

9*2 Braking system
2.3a Release tho locking clip ...
1 General information
The braking system is of the vacuum servo-assisted. dual-circuit hydraulic type. The arrangement of Ihe hydraulic system is such that each circuit operates one front ond ono rear brake from a tandem master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, both circuits operate In unison However, in the event of hydraulic failure in one circuit, lull braking force will still be available at two diagonally-opposite wheels. All models covered in this manual are fitted with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. The front disc brakes are aotuated by single-piston sliding lype calipers, which ensure lhat equal pressure is applied to each brake pad. The rear drum brakes incorporate leading and trailing shoes, which are actuated by twin-piston wheel cylinders. A self-adjust mechanism is incorporated, to automatically compensate for brako shoe wear. As the brake shoe linings wear, the footbrnke operation automatically operates the adjuster mechanism, which effectively lengthens the shoe strut and repositions the brake shoes, to remove the llning-to-drum clearance. The mechanical handbrake linkage operates the brake shoos via a lever attached to the trailing brake shoe.
2.3b ... and remove the pad wear indicator wiring and brake fluid line from the suspension strut Load sensitive proportioning valves operate on the rear brake hydraulic circuits, to prevent the possibility of the rear wheels locking before the front wheels under heavy braking. Note: When servicing any part of the system, work carefully and methodically; also observe scmpulous cleanliness when overhauling any part of the hydraulic sysiem. Always renew components (in axle sets, where applicable) if In doubt about their condition, and use only genuine Fiat replacement parts, or at least those of known good quality. Note the warnings given in Safety first and at relevant points in this Chapter concerning fhe dangers of asoestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Models with anti-lock braking system (ABS) Available as an option on certain models, the anti-lock braking system prevents skidding which not only optimises stopping distances but allows full steering control to be maintained under maximum braking. By electronically monitoring the speed of each roadwheel in relation to the other wneete, Ihe system can detect when a wheel is about to lock-up, before control is actually lost. The brake fluid pressure applied to that wheel's brake caliper is then decreased and restored (or modulated) several times a second until control
£s
regained. The system components comprise an Electronic Control Unit (ECU), four wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic unit, brake lines and dashboard mounted warning lamps.
The hydraulic unit incorporates a tandem master cylinder, a valve block which modulates the pressure in the brake hydrauli: circuits during ABS operation, an accumulator which provides a supply of highly pressursed brake fluid, a hydraulic pump to charge Ihe accumulator and an integral electronic control unit (ECU). The four wheel sensors are mounted on the wheel hubs. The ECU uses the signals produced by the sensors to calculate Ihe rotational speed of each wheel, The ECU has a self-diagnostic capability and will inhibit the operation of the ABS il a fault is detected, lighting the dashboard mounted warning lamp. The braking system will then revert lo conventional. non-ABS operation. II the nature of the laull ie not immediately obvious upon inspection, the vehicle must be taken to a Fiat dealer, who will have the diagnostic equipment
required
lo interrogate the ABS ECU electronically and pin-point the problem
2 Front brake pads - & renewal S

A


Warning: Renew BOTH sets ol front brake pads at the same
time
- NEVER renew the pads on
only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result

A


Warning: Note that the dust created by wear of the pads
may
contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow It out with compressed air, and don't inhale any of
it.
An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use proprietary braks cleaner or methylated spirit only. 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely
on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle supporti. Remove the front roadwheeis. 2 Wording on one side of the vehicle, puth the caliper piston into its bore by pulling the caliper outwards. If necessary, press the piston back into its bore using a large G-clamp or a piston retraction tool. Keep a careful eye on the level of brake llufd in Ihe I reservoir as you do this - ensure that the
level
I does not rise above the MAX marking. 3 Whore applicable, release the locking dp and remove the pad wear indicator
wiring end
brake fluid line from the bracket at Ihe
base of
the suspension strut (see illustrations).
Petrol models without ABS 4 Remove the locking clip and exlracl the lower guide pin from the caliper (see illustrations) 5 Pivot the caliper body upwards and support In position with a length of wire or a cabie-fc. Avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
2,4a Remove the locking clip ... 2.4b ... and extract the lower guide pin from the caliper (petrol models without ABS)