ignition system FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Contents
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine and associated systems SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A«1 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B«1 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C«1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D«1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3»1 Fuel system - single-point petrol injection models Page 4A«1 Fuel system - multi-point petrol injection models Page 4B«1 Fuel system - diesel models Page 4C»1 Exhaust and emission control systems Page 4D*1 Starting and charging systems Page SA«1 Ignition system - petrol models Page SB«1 Preheating system - diesel models Page 5C>1
Transmission Clutch Page 6»1 Manual transmission Page 7A«1 Automatic transmission Page 7B*1 Driveshafts Page 8*1
Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9*1 Suspension and steering Page 10-1
Body equipment Bodywork, trim and Fittings Page 11«1 Body electrical systems Page 12*1
Wiring diagrams Page 12»13
REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights Page REF«1 Conversion factors Page REF*2 Buying spare parts Page REF»3 Vehicle identification Page REF«3 General repair procedures Page REF«4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF»5 Disconnecting the battery Page REF«5 Tools and working facilities Page REF-6 MOT test checks Page REF»8 Fault finding Page REF»12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF»20
index Page REF»24
expert22 rjijr http://rutracker.org

Safety first! 0.5
Working on your ear can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning • Beware of burns from the exhau3t system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle. ~ always supplement the ' ' -jack with axle stands, or use ... drive-on i'j ramps. kr Never venture ™ under
a
car
vv/j/ch
Is only supported by a jack. • Take card if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire • Fuel Is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't (et fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of toots). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repainng or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock x ^ ^ ? , • Ignition HT _ " voltage can be ^ dangerous, ~ especially to > people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the f^ ignition system with fT") the engine running or ' J ' J the Ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous: they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut, • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. « Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream If necessary. Change out of oll-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame {including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found In gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with soch components It is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when cerlam types of synthetic rubber, found In some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc. are exposed to temperatures above 400;C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years, tfit gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.
The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steenng wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

A


Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any otfterpart of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Remember...
DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wrtstwatch etc. before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system, • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job. or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting toots which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play In or near a vehicle being worked on.

o.6 Roadside repairs
The following pages are Intended to help In dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair Information In the main chapters.
If your car won't start
and the starter motor
doesn't turn
If your car won't start
even though the starter
motor turns as normal
tf it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in P or N. Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by Jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car.
• Is there fuel In the tank? • Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don't normally suffer from damp.)

A

Check that the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by pushing them onto the plugs (petrol engine models).
B

Check that the wiring to the engine compartments is securely connected.
C

Check the security and condition of the battery terminals,
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray tike WD40II you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 0.7
I Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct | whatever made the battery go fiat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

t

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

2

The charging system (s not working property (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator Itself faulty).

3

The battery Itself is at fault (ehctrotyte low, or battery worn out).
When jump-starling a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
• Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
• Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
• Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.
Jump starting • Make sure that the booster battery Is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
• If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
• Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK. In the case of automatic transmission).
Make sure that the lump leads will not come into contact with the fan. drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine.
Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

1A»1
Chapter
1
Part A:
Routine maintenance & servicing - petrol models
Contents

Air
filter renewal 18 Automatic transmission filter and fluid change 2B Auxiliary dr cmI
and filter renewal 3 Evaporative loss system check 27 Exhaust system check 8 From brake pad check 5 Fuel filter renewal 17 Headlight beam adjustment 23 Hinge and lock lubrication 22
Hose and fluid leak check 7 Idle speed and CO content check and adjustment .11 Ignition system check 20 Introduction 1 Lambda/oxygen sensor check 25 Manifold mounting check 16 Manual transmission oil level check 26 Manual transmission oil renewal .32 Pollen filter renewal 10 Rear brake shoe check 29 Regular maintenance 2 Road test 24 Spark plug renewal 19 Steering and suspension check 12 Timing belt renewal 30 Underbody sealant check 6 Valve clearance check and adjustment 15
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ novice with little experience ^
Fairty easy, suitable for beginner with ^ some experience
FaMy difficult, ^ sitable for competent jj^ DIY mechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY aJ mechanic ^
Very difficult, ^ suitable for expert DIY or professional ^
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org

ia.2 Servicing specifications - petrol models
Lubricants and fluids Refer to end ot Weekly checks on page 0*17
Capacities Engine oil (including filter) 1108 cc engine 3.47 litres 1242 cc (8-valvB) engine 3.74 litres 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 2.80 litres Cooling system 4,6 litres
Manual transmission 5-spee d 1.65 litres 6-spee d 1.87 litres Automatic transmission 1.98 litres Power-assisted steering 0.65 Irtres Fuel tank 47 litres Washer reservoir Wllhouthesdllghl washers 2.5 litres With headlight washers 7.0 litres
Engine Olf niter - Champion F107 Auxiliary drivebelt tension 5.0 mm deflection midway between pulleys Valve clearances - engine cold: Inlet Exhaust 1108 cc and 1242 cc (single-point petrol injection) 0.40±0.05mm 0.50±0.05mm 1242 cc (multi-point petrol Injection 0.40 1 0.05 mm 0.45 1 0.05 mm
Cooling system Antifreeze mixture (50% antifreeze) Protection down to -35"C Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Fuel system Engine idle speed . 900 * 50 rpm CO 0.35 maximum Air filter element: 1108 cc engine with 6-speed transmission -... Champion U647 1108 cc engine (Easl Europe) Champion U648 1242 cc engine (60 models) Champion U647 1242
CO
engine (75.85 and Sporting models) Champion U649 Fuel filler: Up to September 1995 October 1995 onwards 1108 cc engine Champion L213 Champion L225 1242 cc engine (60 models) Champion L213 Champion 1225 1242 cc engine {75 models) Champion L203 Champion L225
Ignition system Ignition liming Refer to Chapter 58 Spark plugs: Type Gap* 1108 cc and 1242 cc (6-valve) engines Champion RC9YCC 0.9 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine ,... Champion RA4HCC 0.8 mm The spark plug gap quoted Is Diet recommenced by Champion for their specined plugs listed above. If spar* plugs of any other type ere to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer's recommendations. Brakes Brake pad lining minimum thickness 15 mm Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness 2.0 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm itrfft Automatic transmission lluld drain plug 25 10 Automatic transmission fluid sump bolts 4 3 Manual transmission oil drain plug: Stage 1 12 9 Stage 2 Angle-lighten a further 180" Manual transmission oil filler plug 40 30 Roadwheel bolts 86 83 Spark plugs 27 20 Sump drain plug 10 7

ia«6 Component location - petrol models
Rear underbody view (diesel model shown, petrol model similar)
1 Fuel
tank
2
Exhaust
tailpipe
and
silencer 3
Rear axle
4 Coll
springs
5
Rear
anti-mil
bar
6
Handbrake cables
T
Rear brake pressure
regulating
valve
S
Rear
shock absorber lower mountings
Maintenance procedures
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle (or safety, eoonomy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, and Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks. ad}ustments, component renewal and other helpful Items are included. Refer to the accompanying Illustrations of the engine compartment and tho underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with ihe mlleaget/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result m a long and reliable service life. This Is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some Items but not others at the specified service Intervals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can, and should, be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle Is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yoursell before tne
actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.
2 Regular maintenance
1 If. from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 II is possible that there will be times when the engine rs running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely If a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out. outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to bo carried out. II, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those usually required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:
Primary operations a) Cloan, inspect and test the battery
(See
Weekly checks), b) Check alt the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebeft($) (Section 13). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 19). e) Inspect the ignition HT leads (Section 20). 0 Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 18). g) Check the fuel filter (Section 17). h) Check tho condition of ell hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Sect/on 7). i) Check theexhaust
gas emissions (Section 11).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations;
Secondary operations All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following; e) Check the charging system (Chapter 5K Section 4). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 58). c) Check tho fuel system (see relevant Part of Chapter
4).
d) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 20)

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models 1A.13
20 Ignition system check
81
21 Engine management system check

A


Warning: Voltages produced by an electronic ignition system are considerably higher than those produced by conventional ignition systems. Extreme care must be taken when working on the system with the Ignition switched on. Persons with surgically-Implanted cardiac pacemaker devices should keep well clear of the ignition circuits, components and test oquipment. 1 The ignition system components should be checked for damage or deterioration as follows.
General component check 2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted. 3 Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping
the end
fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.
Ensure that the leads are i numbered before removing i them, to avoid confusion when refitting
4 Check Inside the end fitting for signs of corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the end fitting back onto the spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the plug. if not, remove the lead again and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end
of the spark plug. 5 Using a clean rag, wipe Ihe emlre length of the lead to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for bums, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, nor pull the lead lengthways - the conductor inside might break. 6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from the ignition coll. Again, pull only on the end fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same
manner as the spark plug end. Refit the bad securely on completion. 7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
ihe same
way. 8 if new spark plug (HT) leads are required, purchase a set for your specific car and engine. 9 Even with the ignition system In first-class condition, some engines may still occasionally experience poor starting attributable to damp ignition components. To disperse moisture, a water-dispersant aerosol should be liberally
Ignition timing -
check
and adjustment 10 Check the ignition timing as described In Chapter 58.
1 This check is part of the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, and Involves testing Ihe engine management system using special dedicated test equipment. Such testing will allow the test equipment to read any fault codes stored in the electronic control unit memory. 2 Unless a fault is suspected, this test te not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. 3 If access to suitable test equipment is not possible, make a thorough check of all ignition, fuel and emission control system components, hoses, and wiring, for security and obvious signs of damage. Further details of the fuet system, emission control system and ignition system can be .found In the relevant parts of Chapters 4 and 5.
22 Hinge and lock lubrication %
1
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate ail latches, locks and lock strikers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them If necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
23 Headlight beam adjustment % & ^
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beem-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of. and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door, 3 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car, then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marfcs on Ihe wall, if not. turn the adjustment screw located on the upper inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam
vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment.
24 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of all Instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.
Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain 6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch (where applicable), transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there Is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action Is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual gearbox models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vsgue or notchy. 11 On automatic transmission models, check that all Ihe gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest, if any problems are found, they should be referred to a Flat dealer. 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a drtveshaft joint, In which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 15 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever, and that It holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.

ia.14 Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts.
there should be a noticeable give In the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least tsvo minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now. it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal shouto feel considerably harder.
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or 3 years
. transmission (see illustration). Using an Allen 25 Lambda/oxygen sensor ^ key, unscrew the plug and clean it. check \ 3 The oil level should reach the lower edge of ^ the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and If the CO level at the exhaust tailpipe is too w,u tr,cWe out when is 'e™oved; this does high or low, Ihe vehicle should be taken to a «©l necessarily Indicate that the level is Fiat dealer so lhat the complete fuel-injection correct. To ensure that a true level is and ignition systems, including the Lamoda/ established, wait until the Initial trickle has oxygen sensor, can be thoroughly checked stopped, then ado oil as necessary until a using the special diagnostic equipment. Once ,r,ckle o1 new oil can be seen emerging. The these have been checked and are known to 'W wl" be correct when ,he flow ceases-us® be free from faults, the fault must be in the good-quality oil of the specified type, catalytic converter, which must be renewed Make sur®that vehicle Is completely level as described In Chapter 4D, Section 6. checking the level and do not overfill, 4 When the level Is correct refit and tighten the plug and wipe away any spilt oil.
26 Manual transmission oil level check ^ 27 Evaporative loss system ^ check
1 Park Ihe vehicle on a level surface, If possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level plug is best reached from under Ihe engine compartment. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil ts checked Immediately alter driving the car, some of the oil will remain distributed around the transmission components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on the front of the
Refer to Chapter 40 Section 2 and check that all wiring and hoses are correctly connected to the evaporative toss system components.
28 Automatic transmission fitter and fluid change
1 Take the vehicle on a short run. to warm the transmission up to operating temperature.
Park the car on level ground, then switch off the Ignition. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support]. Note thai, when refilling and checking Uie fluid level, the car must be lowered to the ground, and level, to ensure accuracy. 3 Remove the dipstick, then position a suitable container under the transmission, Unscrew the sump drain plug and allow the fluid to drain for at ieast 10 minutes. Refit and tighten the drain plug when the fluid has completely drained.

A


Warning: The transmission fluid may be very hot and precautions must be taken to avoid scalding.
4 Clean around the transmission sump mating flange. Unboll and remove the sump and remove the gasket. 5 Remove the two bolts and withdraw the transmission fluid filter {see illustration). 6 Fit the new filter, and secure It with the two bolts. 7 Refit the sump using a new gasket, then
_
lower the vehicle to the ground, 8 Fill the transmission with the specified quantity of fluid via Ihe dipstick tube, using a funnel with a fine mesh filter. 9 Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then check the fluid level as described In Weekly checks. 10 Dispose of the old fluid safely.
26.2 Transmission filler/level plug location 28.5 Automatic transmission fluid filter retaining bolts

Maintenance procedures - diesel models ib.?
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
5 Brake warning lamp operation check 1
1 With Ihe ignition Key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake
fluid
reservoir cap (see illustration). I
As
the button is pressed, the brake warning
lamp
on the instrument panel should light. 3 If Ihe lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity taster, then refer to Chapter t2, Section 5,
and
check the Instrument panel bulb.
6 Front brake pad check ^
I
1 firmly apply Ihe handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on arie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of
the
friction material of the brake pads on both brakes. This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Ctefc the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper
|see
lustration), 3
For a
comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also bo checked, and the condition of the brake disc iteeil can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further Information. 4 If any pad's friction material Is worn to the specified thickness or less, all lour pads must to renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9. 5 On completion refit the roadwheels and lower the car to the ground.
7 Underbody sealant check f^
1 Jack up the front and rear of the car and support on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle
support). Alternatively position the car over
an
Inspection pit. 2 Check the complete underbody, wheel housings and side sills for corrosion and/or damage to the underbody sealant. If evident,
rapairi

8
Hose
and fluid leak check
1 Visually inspect the engine Joint faces. g3skets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
5.1 Depress tho button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a teak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters In this manual, 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure thai all cable-ties or securing clips are In place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems In the future. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better If the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in leaks. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses. )olnt faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak, Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage, The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 6 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully Inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.
6.2 Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hote on the front of the caliper
7 With the vehicle raised, check along the length of the underside for leaks from the metal brake lines, caused by damage or corrosion. 8 At each front brake caliper, check the area around the brake pipe unions and the bleed nipples for hydraulic fluid leakage, 9 Remove the front roadwheels and chock for fluid leakage from the area around the caliper piston seal. Check that the tip of the piston dust seal is correctly located in its groove. If it has been displaced, the brake caliper should be removed and overhauled as described in Chapter 9, to check for internal dirt Ingress or corrosion. 10 Check the area surrounding the master cylinder and vacuum servo unit for signs of corrosion, Insecurity or hydraulic fluid leakage. Examine the vacuum hose leading to the servo unit for signs of damage or chafing. 11 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and Inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 12 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.
A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.