Elect FIAT PUNTO 1996 176 / 1.G Repair Manual

7A«4 Manual transmission
33 Remove lha air cleaner front section and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4C. Also disconnect the injection pump vacuum pipe from the clips on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. This work is necessary in order to fit the engine hoist 34 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley Jack and block of wood beneath the engine. 35 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower it and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 36 Unscrew the starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. 37 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 39 Trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side ot the engine. If a mechanical speedometer Is fitted unscrew the knurled collar and disconnect the cabte from the transmission. 40 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover. 41 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft to the transmission flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 42 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 43 Move the swrvel hub assembly outwards and support the driveshaft away from Ihe transmission. 44 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the Inner end of the right-hand driveshaft to the intermediate shaft flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 45 Remove the intermediate driveshaft with reference to Chapter 8. 46 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle.
47 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body then unscrew Ihe bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 48 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolts from the bellhousing and pull the transmission away from the engine.

A


Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that It remains steady o/i the jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft
1$
fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate.
Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Appiy a smear* of high-meiting-point grease to the clutch friction piate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. b) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
4 Manual transmission overhaul -general Infomtatlon
Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult and Involved Job for the DIY home mechanic. In addition to dismantling and reassembling many small parts, clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed by selecting shims and spacers. Internal transmission components are also often difficult to obtain, and in many Instances, extremely expensive. Because of this, If the transmission develops a fault or becomes noisy. Ihe best course of action is to have the unit overhauled by a specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange reconditioned unit. Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the more experienced mechanic to overhaul the transmission, provided the special tools are available, and the Job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner, so that nothing is overlooked.
The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external clrclip pliers, bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a sat of pin punches, a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench 8od a vice will be required. During dismantling o1 the transmission, make careful notes of how each component
1$
fitted, to make reassembly easier and more accurate. Before dismantling the transmission, it will help if you have some idea what area is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely related to specific areas In the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Fault Finding Section at the end of this manual for more Information.
5 Reversing light switch -testing, removal and refitting ||
Testing 1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a plunger-type switch screwed into the front of the transmission casing. If a fault develops, first ensure that Ihe circuit fuse has not blown. 2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring connector, and use a multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test circuit to check that there is continuity between the switch terminals only when reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, and there are no obvious breaks or other damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
Removal 3 Access to the reversing light switch Is best achieved from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then unscrew It from the transmission casing.
Refitting 5 Refit the switch and tighten securely. 6 Reconnect the wiring then lower the vehicle to the ground.

7B«1
Chapter 7 Part B:
Automatic transmission
Contents
Accelerator pedal micro-switch(es) - checking and adjustment II Automatic transmission filter and fluid change See Chapter 1A Automatic transmission fluid level check See Weekly checks Automatic transmission • overhaul 12 Automatic transmission • removal and refining 2 Bectro-magnetic clutch - removal, inspection and refitting 3 BectrO'fnagnetic clutch brushes- removal, inspection and refitting . 4
Electronic control unit - removal and refitting 5 Gear selector cable - adjustment 6 Gear selector cable - removal and refitting 9 General information 1 Kickdown cable - adjustment 7 Kickdown cable - removal and refitting 6 Transmission oil pump - removal and refitting 10
Degrees of difficulty

Easy,
suitable for novice
with
ittle experience ^
Party
easy,
suitable for beginner
with
^r someexperienoe ^
Faiily
difficult,
^ suitable
for
competent
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult, suitable
for fe, experienced DIY >8J mechanic
Verydfficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
General Type Ratios (at transmission): Lowest Highest Final drive
Torque wrench settings Esnh cable Control unit Sectro-magnetic clutch to flywheel Transmission-to-engine bolt/nut ..
ECVT (Electronic Continuously Variable Transmission)
2.503 0.497 4.647:1
Nm Ibftt 14 10 5 4 34 25 85 63
1 Genera) information
I The automatic transmission fitted is designated ECVT (Electronic Continuously Variable Transmission). The main components
01
the transmission are an electro-magnetic dutch, a variable-ratio coupling, a final drive/ differential unit, and the associated control mechanisms (see illustrations overleaf) 2 The variable-ratio coupling consists of two pulleys and a flexible metal drivebelt. The effective diameter of the two pulleys can be varied to provide different transmission ratios between them. 3 During normal driving, the transmission automatically selects the ratio giving the best
compromise between economy and speed. When the driver depresses the accelerator pedal to the floor, a kickdown effect is provided, and the transmission selects a lower ratio for improved acceleration. 4 The gear selector control resembles that fitted to conventional automatic transmissions. The control positions are as follows: P (Parking) The transmission is mech-anically locked by the engage-ment of a pawl with a toothed segment on the driven pulley. R (Reverse) Reverse gean's engaged, N (Neutral) The transmission is In neutral. D (Drive) Normal driving position. Trans-mission ratio is varied automat-ically to suit prevailing speed and load.
L (Low) Prevents the transmission
moving into high ratios. Provides maximum acceleration end maximum engine braking. 5 The engine can only be started In positions P and N. A warning buzzer sounds If the selector is in any position other than P when the ignition is switched off or when the driver's door is opened. 6 The electro-magnetic clutch consists of a driving element boiled to the engine flywheel, and a driven element spiined to the transmission Input shaft. The degree of coupling between the (wo elements Is determined by the intensity of a magnetic field generated by a current passing through windings in the driven element. The magnetic field acts on a layer of metallic powder between the driving and driven elements. When no magnetic field is present, the powder is loose and the two elements are effectively

7B*2 Automatic transmission
disconnected. As the magnetic field increases, the powder sticks together, and the coupling between Ihe elements becomes Increasingly rigid. 7 Selection of reverse, neutral and forward gears is by the movement of a sliding sleeve on a hub keyed to the drive pulley shaft. In forward gear, the sleeve engages with the gear on the end of the input shaft, which is then locked to the drive pulley shaft. When reverse is selected, the sleeve engages with reverse driven gear, which is in constant mesh with an idler gear driven by transfer gears from the input shaft gear. In neutral, the sleeve Is in an intermediate position, and the
two shafts are not connected. 8 Tho drive pulley and driven pulley both consist of fixed and moving halves. The movement of ihe drive pulley halves is controlled hydraulically, while the driven pulley halves move under the influence of a spring and the tension exerted by the drivebeit. As the drive pulley opens, the driven pulley closes, and vice-versa. In this way, the transmission ratio between the two pulleys can be varied. The ratios are continuously variable between preset limits; the difference between the lowest and highest ratios available is approximately 5:1. 9 Hydraulic pressure is generated by a gear-
type pump Inside the transmission. The punp driveshaft runs inside the Input and drive pulley shafts, and Is splined to the centred the engine flywheel. This means that hydreulc pressure is only generated when the engine is running, which is why a car with this type ot transmission cannot be push- or tow-started 10 Application of hydrautic pressure to the pulley halves is via a control unit, which receives information on accelerator pedal position, transmission selector lever position, transmission ratio currently in use, and drive pulley speed. From this information, the control unit determines whether, and in which direction, lo change the pulley ratios.
1.1 a Cutaway view of the ECVT (electronic continuously variable transmission) 7 Electromagnetic dutch 3 Drive pulley 5 Metal drivebeit 7 Hydraulic controt unit 2 Gear selector sleeve A Dnven pulley 6 Final drive reduction gears

Automatic transmission 7B*3
11 When reverse gear Is selected, the control unit keeps the transmission In tow ratio, if this were not the case, it would, In theory, be possible to drive as fast In reverse as in forward gear. 12 An electronic control unit supplies the current to energise the clutch. The control unit receives signals concerning engine speed, road speed, accelerator pedal position, and gear selector position, Sensors include the following. a) Engine rpm sensor (from the Injection/ignition control unit) b) Accelerator pedal switch
c) Throttle valve position sensor d) Selector lever position sensor e) Vehicle speed sensor f) Coolant temperature sensor g) Air conditioning sensor h) Brake switch I) Torque signal
13 The final drive/differential unit Is conventional. Drive from the driven pulley is transmitted to the differential by an Intermediate reduction gear. 14 The ECVT incorporates a warning light which illuminates when a fault occurs.
Precautions 1$ Observe the following precautions to avoid damage to the automatic transmission: a) Do not attempt to start the engine by pushing or towing the car. b) If the car has to be towed for recovery, the distance must not exceed 12 miles (20
km),
and the speed must not exceed
19
mph
(30 kph).
If these conditions cannot be met, or If transmission damage is suspected, only tow the car with the front wheels clear of the ground. c) Only engage P or R when the vehicle is stationary.
1.1b Electromagnetic f Coil 2 Signal from vehicle speed sensor 3 Transmission 4 Electromagnetic powder 5 Drive shaft (driven by crankshaft) $ Transmission input shaft 7 Electromagnetic clutch housing 8 ECVT control unit
clutch control system 9 Accelerator pedal micro switch 10 Throttle
vafve
opening position potentiometer 11 Multifunction switch 12 Ignition switch
13
Air conditioning
signal
14 Engine PPM
signal
15 Accelerator pedal 16 Coolant temperature signal 17 Injection/ignition control unit 18 8attery
1.1c Hydraulic control system 3 Injection/ignition control unit 4 Air conditioner sensor
signal
6 Coolant temperature signal 7 Clutch signal 8 Engine RPM
signal
9 ECVT warning light 10 Selector lever position 11 Accelerator
pedal
switch/throttle
valve
potentiometer/torque signal 12 Brake switch 13
ECVT
control unit 14 Signal from vehicle speed sensor
15
Accelerator pedal position switch
16 Pulley ratio 17 Input shaft RPM 18 Primary oil pressure
19
Primary pulley 20 Electromagnetic clutch 21 Pressure regulating solenoid valve 22 Oil pressure control valve 23 Secondary oil pressure 24 Slip ring 25 Drive from engine 26 Oil pump 27 Vehicle speed sensor 28 Secondary pulley 29 Belt and pulley 30 Drive to drlveshafts

7B*4 Automatic transmission
2 Automatic transmission - ^ removal and refitting St
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels, 2 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described In Chapter 5A. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet duct as described In Chapter 4A. 4 Disconnect the kickdown cable at the sector on the throttle housing and detach It from the mounting on the camshaft cover. Also release the cable from the support on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the wiring connectors on the transmission. 6 Disconnect the fluid inlet and outlet Unas from the heat exchanger on top of the transmission. 7 Pull the fluid level dipstick from Its tube on the front of the transmission and tape over the top of the tube to prevent dirt entry. 8 Unscrew and remove the retaining pin and disconnect the speed selector cable from the top of the transmission. 9 Unscrew the upper bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 10 Unscrew the upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 11 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively UBO a trolley jack and block of wood beneath the engine, 12 Remove the screws and remove the front wheel arch liner from under the left-hand wheel arch. 13 Unscrew the nut securing the earth cablo to the transmission. 14 Using a punch drive out the roll pins securing both driveshafts to the final drive output shafts. 15 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 16 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and slide the inner end of the driveshaft from the splines on the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the gaiters. 17 Unscrew the lambdafoxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position it In a safe place to prevent damage. 18 Unscrew ihe nuts securing the downpipe to Ihe exhaust manifold, then lower It and suppon on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 19 Unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing.
3-2 Locking the flywheel when removing the electromagnetic clutch 20 Unscrew the remaining bolt securing the staner motor to the transmission 21 Unbolt and remove Ihe lower flywheel cover from the transmission. 22 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting lo the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 23 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body thon unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 24 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the bellhouslng and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle.

A


Warning: Support the transmission to ensure that It remains steady on the Jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft and pump shaft are fully withdrawn from the electromagnetic clutch housing.
Refitting 25 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a} Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the splines of the transmission input shaft and oil pump driveshaft.
3.6 Checking the resistance of the clutch windings 1 Slip rings
0) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the
specified
torque, where given, c) Renew both driveshaft roll pins.
3 Electro-magnetic clutch • & removal, inspection 5. and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove Ihe transmission as described n Section 2. 2 Turn the flywheel so that two of the lour mounting bolts are accessible, Hold tha flywheel stationary then unscrew Ihe tvrt bolts. To hold the flywheel, Insert a wida bladed screwdriver In the ring gear teeth or alternatively use a piece of angle iron against one of the retaining bolts temporarily Inserted in the cylinder block (see illustration). 3 Turn the crankshaft half a turn and unscrew the remaining bolts, then withdraw the electromagnetic clutch.
Inspection 4 Turn the driven element by means of tha slip rings, and check that the bearing is not noisy or rough. 5 Inspect the slip rings for burning or other damage. Clean them if necessary using fid and a clean rag. 6 Check the resistance of the clutch windings, using an ohmmetor connected across the slip rings (see Illustration). The resistance at 20*0 should be 2 to 4 ohms. 7 Check the Insulation of the windings, using an ohmmeter connected between either sip ring and the body of the clutch (see illustration). Resistance should be Infinity. 8 If the clutch fails any of the foregoing checks, renew it. Apart from the brush gear, Individual spares are not available.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal but tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
windings

Automatic transmission 7B«5
4 Electro-magnetic dutch brushes - removal, inspection and refitting
Removal 1 Remove the battery and battery tray as described in Chapter 5A. 2 Disconnect the wiring connector for the brushes. The brush holder is located near the dlp9tick tube. 3 Unscrew the mounting screws and with-draw the brush holder from the transmission (see illustration).
inspection 4 Inspect the brushes. If they ere worn down to the limit lines, or if they do not move smoothly in their holders, renew the brush carrier assembly (see illustration}. Note: Be careful not to damage the brush supply leads whan checking the brushes for free movement II is not possible to renew the brushes separately,
Refitting 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
5 Electronic control unit • removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual).
4.3 Brush holder mounting screws on top of tho transmission
2 Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the centre console. 3 Unscrew the mounting bracket screws, lower the control unit then disconnect the two wiring connectors (see Illustration). Withdraw the unit from inside the vehicle.
Refitting 4 Refitting Is a reversal of removal.
6 Kickdown cable -removal
and
refitting I
This operation involves the removal of the hydraulic control unit from inside the trans-mission. It should therefore be left to a Flat dealer or other specialist.
1 Remove the air cleaner and air Inlet duct assembly as described in Chapter 4A. The throttle cable is located on top of the throttle housing sector and the kickdown cable is located on the bottom of the sector (see Illustration). 2 Turn the throttle housing sector fully clockwise so that the throttle Is wide open, then position the kickdown outer cable so thai its Inner cable is slightly tensioned. Make the adjustment at the two adjustment nuts on the support bracket. 3 Check and if necessary adjust the accelerator cable as described In Chapter 4A. 4 Fully depress the accelerator pedal then check that there is approximately 0.5 to 1.0 mm free travel available on the kickdown cable. If necessary re-adjust the kickdown cable until It is set correctly. 5 Road test the vehicle and check for correct operation.
6.3 Wiring connectors on tho electronic control unit 7.1 The throttle cable (A} Is located on top of the throttle housing sector and the kickdown cable (8) on the bottom

7B*6 Automatic transmission
Gear selector cable -adjustment
1 Remove the battery and tray as described In Chapter 5A for access to the transmission. 2 Disconnect the selector cable from the lever on Ihe transmission. 3 Move the selector fever inside the vehicle to the N (Neutral) position, then move the lever on the transmission to Its central (Neutral) position. Locate the cable end over the lever. If the cable end fitting does not line up exactly with the hole In Ihe lever, loosen the adjustment nut and reposition the end fitting. 4 With the adjustment correct reconnect tha cable to the lever, then move the selector lever to the P (Park) position. Check that the lever on the transmission has also moved to the P position. 6 Refit the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A. 6 Road test the vehicle, and check for correct operation in all selector lever positions.
9 Gear selector cable -removal and refitting at
7 Inside the vehicle disconnect the selector cable from the bottom of the selector lever (hen remove it from the support bracket, a Withdraw the cable into the engine compartment, and remove it.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust the cable as described in Section 8. 10 Check that It is only possible to start the engine in positions P and N. Reposition the selector lever switch If necessary. 11 Road test the vehicle, and check for correct operation In ell selector lever positions.
10 Transmission oil pump - & mnvtiifll rAtiMlitA removal a/id refitting
Removal 1 Using an Allen key. unscrew the screw and remove the selector lever knob from the lever. 2 Remove the oddment tray and the ashtray. 3 Remove the screws and withdraw the centre console and selector mechanism cover. 4 Unscrew the mounting screws, slightly lift the centre console, then disconnect the wiring and remove the console, 5 Remove the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A for access to the transmission, 6 Disconnect the selector cable from the lever on the transmission.
Removal 1 Apply the handbrake, then lack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the left-hand wheel. 2 Unscrew the screws and remove the wheel arch liner. 3 Working through the left-hand wheel arch, remove Ihe three bolts which secure the oil pump. 4 Attach a slide hammer to the oil pump, using the two tapped holes provided. Withdraw the pump using the slide hammer. Be prepared for some oil spillage. Recover the gasket end O-ring (see illustrations). 5 If the pump is defective, it must be renewed; no spares are available.
Refitting 6 Before refitting Ihe oil pump, clean Ihe mating surfaces of the transmission and pump. 7 Rt the oil pump, U9ing a new gasket and a new O-ring. Secure the pump with the three bolts.
8 Refit the wheel arch liner, then refit tto wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. 9 Check the transmission fluid level » described earlier in this Section, and top-upif necessary.
11 Accelerator pedal & mfcro-Bwftcb(es) -checking
and
adjustment ^
1 Correct adjustment of the micro-awtlch which senses the accelerator pedal position s essential for correct operation of the clutch.
A
quick check can be made by listening for the switch clicking as the accelerator a depressed. For an accurate check, proceed as follows. 2 Disconnect Ihe mlcroswitch wiring connector (nside the vehicle. Connect a continuity tester across the terminals of the switch, located at the top of (he pedal box (see Illustration}. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A. 4 With the accelerator pedal releassd, th« switch must be closed (zero resistance). Slowty depress the pedal, and check that the switch opens when the throttle valve on the throttle housing is 30° open. This will occur when the pedal has travelled between 3 and 7 mm. Adjust the switch position if necessary. 5 If the switch is permanently open or permanently closed, and adjustment makes no difference, renew ft. 6 Remake the original wiring connections on completion,
12 Automatic transmission -overhaul
Apart from the operations described earlier in this Section, transmission overhaul should be entrusted to a Rat dealer or transmission specialist.
10.4a Using a slide hammer to remove the oil pump from the transmission 10.4b Automatic transmission oil pump O-dng (1), housing (2) and gasket (3) 11.2 Continuity tester connected ecross the accelerator pedal micro-switch

9*2 Braking system
2.3a Release tho locking clip ...
1 General information
The braking system is of the vacuum servo-assisted. dual-circuit hydraulic type. The arrangement of Ihe hydraulic system is such that each circuit operates one front ond ono rear brake from a tandem master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, both circuits operate In unison However, in the event of hydraulic failure in one circuit, lull braking force will still be available at two diagonally-opposite wheels. All models covered in this manual are fitted with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. The front disc brakes are aotuated by single-piston sliding lype calipers, which ensure lhat equal pressure is applied to each brake pad. The rear drum brakes incorporate leading and trailing shoes, which are actuated by twin-piston wheel cylinders. A self-adjust mechanism is incorporated, to automatically compensate for brako shoe wear. As the brake shoe linings wear, the footbrnke operation automatically operates the adjuster mechanism, which effectively lengthens the shoe strut and repositions the brake shoes, to remove the llning-to-drum clearance. The mechanical handbrake linkage operates the brake shoos via a lever attached to the trailing brake shoe.
2.3b ... and remove the pad wear indicator wiring and brake fluid line from the suspension strut Load sensitive proportioning valves operate on the rear brake hydraulic circuits, to prevent the possibility of the rear wheels locking before the front wheels under heavy braking. Note: When servicing any part of the system, work carefully and methodically; also observe scmpulous cleanliness when overhauling any part of the hydraulic sysiem. Always renew components (in axle sets, where applicable) if In doubt about their condition, and use only genuine Fiat replacement parts, or at least those of known good quality. Note the warnings given in Safety first and at relevant points in this Chapter concerning fhe dangers of asoestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Models with anti-lock braking system (ABS) Available as an option on certain models, the anti-lock braking system prevents skidding which not only optimises stopping distances but allows full steering control to be maintained under maximum braking. By electronically monitoring the speed of each roadwheel in relation to the other wneete, Ihe system can detect when a wheel is about to lock-up, before control is actually lost. The brake fluid pressure applied to that wheel's brake caliper is then decreased and restored (or modulated) several times a second until control
£s
regained. The system components comprise an Electronic Control Unit (ECU), four wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic unit, brake lines and dashboard mounted warning lamps.
The hydraulic unit incorporates a tandem master cylinder, a valve block which modulates the pressure in the brake hydrauli: circuits during ABS operation, an accumulator which provides a supply of highly pressursed brake fluid, a hydraulic pump to charge Ihe accumulator and an integral electronic control unit (ECU). The four wheel sensors are mounted on the wheel hubs. The ECU uses the signals produced by the sensors to calculate Ihe rotational speed of each wheel, The ECU has a self-diagnostic capability and will inhibit the operation of the ABS il a fault is detected, lighting the dashboard mounted warning lamp. The braking system will then revert lo conventional. non-ABS operation. II the nature of the laull ie not immediately obvious upon inspection, the vehicle must be taken to a Fiat dealer, who will have the diagnostic equipment
required
lo interrogate the ABS ECU electronically and pin-point the problem
2 Front brake pads - & renewal S

A


Warning: Renew BOTH sets ol front brake pads at the same
time
- NEVER renew the pads on
only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result

A


Warning: Note that the dust created by wear of the pads
may
contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow It out with compressed air, and don't inhale any of
it.
An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use proprietary braks cleaner or methylated spirit only. 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely
on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle supporti. Remove the front roadwheeis. 2 Wording on one side of the vehicle, puth the caliper piston into its bore by pulling the caliper outwards. If necessary, press the piston back into its bore using a large G-clamp or a piston retraction tool. Keep a careful eye on the level of brake llufd in Ihe I reservoir as you do this - ensure that the
level
I does not rise above the MAX marking. 3 Whore applicable, release the locking dp and remove the pad wear indicator
wiring end
brake fluid line from the bracket at Ihe
base of
the suspension strut (see illustrations).
Petrol models without ABS 4 Remove the locking clip and exlracl the lower guide pin from the caliper (see illustrations) 5 Pivot the caliper body upwards and support In position with a length of wire or a cabie-fc. Avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
2,4a Remove the locking clip ... 2.4b ... and extract the lower guide pin from the caliper (petrol models without ABS)

9*10 Braking system
10.6 Disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable (arrowed) from the draw bar 6 Working inside ihe vehicle, remove Ihe screws and lift off the handbrake lever trim panel (refer to Section 9 for more detail). At the base of the handbrake lever, full/ slacken off the handbrake adjusting screw and locknut, to remove oil tension from the cable draw bar, then disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable from the cable draw bar (see illustration) 7 Release the cable grommet from tho floor-pan, then withdraw the cable from the vehicle.
Refitting 8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the cables are securely fastened In the clips on the floorpan beetshield and lower suspension a/m. b) On completion, check the handbrake adiustment, as described in Section 9.
11 Hydraulic system -bleeding

A


Warning: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off immediately and thoroughly In the case ot skin contact, and seek immediate medical advice if any fluid is swallowed, or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable, and may ignite when allowed into contact with hot components. When servicing any hydraulic system, it Is safest to assume that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take precautions
11.17 Bleeding a rear brake line
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol that Is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper, and will attack plastics; If any is spilt, It should be washed off immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it Is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) • old fluid may be contaminated and unfit tor further use. Whan topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use the recommended type, and ensure that It comes from a freshly-opened sealed container.
General 1 The correct operation of any hydraulic system is only possible after removing all air from the components and circuit; and this Is achieved by bleeding the syslem. 2 During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the recommended type; never re-use fluid that has already been bled from the system. Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before starting work. 3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid being already in the system, the brake com-ponents and circuit must be Flushed completely with uncontamlnated, correct fluid, and new seals should be fitted throughout the system. 4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the system, or air has ontered because of a leak, ensure that the fault is cured before proceeding further. 5 Park Ihe vehicle on level ground, switch off the engine and select first or reverse gear (or P), then chock the wheels and release the handbrake. 6 Cheek that all pipes and hoses are secure, unions tight and bleed screws closed. Remove Ihe dust caps (whore applicable), and clean any dirt from around the bleed screws. 7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap, and top Ihe master cylinder reservoir up to the MAX level line; refit the cap loosely. Rememoer to maintain the fluid level at least above the MIN level line throughout the procedure, otherwise there is a risk of further air entering the syslem. 8 There are a number of one-man. do-It-yourself brake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits is used whenever possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation, and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) method must be used, which is described in detail below. 9 If a kit Is to be used, prepare the vehicle as described previously, and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions, as Ihe procedure may vary slightly according to the type being used; generally, they are as outlined below in the relevant sub-section. 10 Whichever method is used, the same sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 and 12) to ensure Ihe removal of all air from the system.
Bleeding sequence 11 If Ihe system has been only
partial!?
disconnected, and suitable precautions wwe taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be necessary to bteod only that part of the system (le the primary or secondary circuit). 12 If the complete system Is to be bled, then It should be done working in the following sequence: a) Left-hand rear wheel b) Right-hand front wheel. c) Right-hand rear wheel. d) Left-hand front wheel. Note: When bleeding the rear brakes
on a
vehicle ritled with load proportioning valves: i the rear of the vehicle has been jacked
up to
allow access to ihe brake wheel cylinder,
tha
rear suspension must be compressed
(eg
raising the beam axle with a trolley
jack) so
that the load proportioning valves
remain open
throughout the bleeding process.
Bleeding -basic (two~man) method 13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length of plastic or rubber tubing which Is a light fit over the bleed screw, end a ring spanner lo
Rt
the screw. The help of an assistant will also tie required. 14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw In the sequence if not already done. Fit a suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place the other end of Ihe tube In the jar. and
pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube. 15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the
MIN
level line throughout the procedure. 16 Have the assistant fully depress the brefce pedal several times to build up pressure, then maintain it on the final downstroke. 17 While pedal pressure is maintained, unscrew ihe bleed screw (approximately one turn) and allow the compressed fluid and orto flow into the
Jar,
The assistant should maintah pedal pressure, following the pedal down to the floor if necessary, and should not rrtaase Ihe pedal until instructed to do so. When ihe flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have the assistant retease the pedal sfowty, and recheck the reservoir fluid level (see Illustration). 18 Repeat Ihe steps given in paragraphs 16 end 17 until the fluid emerging from the bled screw is free from air bubbles. If Ihe master cylinder has been drained and refilled,
and
at Is being bled from the first screw In the sequence, allow approximately five seconds between cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill. 19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighter, the bleed screw securely, remove Ihe tube arc spanner, and refit the dust cap (where applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed sew. 20 Repeat the procedure on tho remaining screws In the sequence, until ail air is removed from the system, and the brake pedal feels firm again.

Suspension and steering 10*2
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm ibt ft Rasr suspension Damper lower securing bolt 95 70 Damper upper securing bolt 60 44 Handbrake cable support bracket-to-trailing arm screws 15 11 Hub nut 280 207 Trailing arm securing bolt 150 111 Steering Ignition switch/steering column lock securing bolts 4 3 Steering column mounting bolts 55 41 Steering gear mounting bolts 70 52 Steering wheel nut' 50 37 Subframe-to-body bolts 110 81 Track-rod end to hub carrier 40 30 Unlversaijointclampbolts 20 15 Roadwheels Roadwheel bolts 85 63 * Use a new nut
1 General information
Front suspension The front suspension is independent, comprising transverse lower wishbones, coil spring-over-damper strut units and an anti-roll bar. The hub carriors are bolted to the base of the stmt units and are linked to the lower arms by means ot balliotnts. The entire front suspension assembly is mounted on a subframe, which is In turn botted to the vehicle body.
Rear suspension The rear suspension incorporates a torsion beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and separate telescopic dampers. In addition, a rear anil-roll bar is fitted to certain models. The components form a discrete sub-assembly which can be unboiled from the underside of the vehicle separately or as a complete unit.
Steering The two-piece steering shaft runs in a tubular column assembly, which is bolted to a bracket mounted on the vehicles bulkhead. The shaft Is articulated at its lower end by means of a universal Joint, which is clamped to the steering shaft and the steering gear pinion by moans of clamp bolts. The steering gear is mounted on the engine compartment bulkhead, and is connected to the steering arms projecting rearwards from Ihe hub carriers. The track-rods are fitted with balljoints at their inner and outer ends, to allow for suspension movement, and are threaded to facilitate ad|ustment. Hydrauiically-assisted power steering ts fittod to some models. The hydraulic system is powered by a belt-driven servo pump, which is driven from the crankshaft pulley.
Certain models are fitted with an airbag system. Sensors built into the vehicle body are triggered in the event of a front end collision and prompt an Electronic Control Unll (ECU) to activate the airbag, mounted In the centre of the steering wheel and the facia. This reduces the risk of the front seat occupants striking the steering wheel, windscreen or facia during an accident.

A


Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongty advised to entrust to an authorised Flat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbag system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage, in addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check that the airbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
2 Front hub bearings -renewal *
Note: A balljoint separator tool, and a press or suitable alternative tools (see text) will be required for this operation. The bearing will be destroyed during the removal procedure.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake disc and caliper, with reference to Chapter 9. Note that the caliper body can remain bolted to its bracket: there is no need lo disconnect the brake fluid hose from the caliper. 3 With reference to Chapter 8. slacken and remove the driveshaft hub nut. 4 On models with ABS, unbolt the ABS wheel sensor, and remove the screw securing the
ABS sensor wiring to the hub carrier. Suspend the sensor away from the working ares, to avoid the possibility of damage. 5 With reference to Section 17, separate
th»
track-rod end from the hub carrier, using
a
suitable balljoint splitter. 6 Remove the two nuts from tho botts securing Ihe hub carrier to the base of th» suspension strut (refer to Section
3).
Withdrew the bolts and separate the top of hub earrtt from the strut. 7 Disconnect the outboard end of Ito driveshaft from the hub, as described durirg the driveshaft removal and refitting procedm in Chapter 8. Note: There is no naod fo disconnect the Inboard end of the
drivestett
from the transmission. Caution: Do not allow the end of tin driveshaft to hang down under its
own
weight, as this places strain on the
CV
joints; support the end of the shaft uskg wire or string. 8 Slacken and remove the nut and clamp bolt, then push the lower arm down anc separate the balljoint from the base of the tab carrier (see illustrations). 9 At this stage, it is recommended that
the bub
carrier be taken to a engineering workshop,
as
the hub and bearing should ideally be removed from the hub carrier using a hydraulic press
2.8a ... Slacken and remove the nut...