Valve FIAT PUNTO 1996 176 / 1.G Repair Manual

Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the gudgeon pin. Slide it Into the piston and through the connecting rod small-end. Check that the piston pivots freely on the rod. then secure the gudgeon pin in position with two new circlips. Ensure that each circlip is correctly located In Its groove in the piston.
Refitting and big-end bearing running ciearance check 27 Prior to refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, it Is recommended that the big-end bearing running clearance is checked as follows. Big-end bearing running clearance check 28 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the connecting rod and bearing cap. 29 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch In the connecting rod and cap. Take care not to touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers. If the onginal bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. The clearance can be checked in either of two ways. 30 One method is to refit the big-end bearing cap to Ihe connecting rod, ensuring that they are litted the correct way around, with the bearing shells in place. Wilh the cap retaining bolls correctly tightened, use an internal micrometer or vernier caliper to measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and Ihen subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the big-end beanng running clearance. 31 The second, and more accurate method is to use a product called Plasligauge. Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted then place a strand of Plastlgauge on each (cleaned) crankpin journal. 32 Refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft, and refit the bg-end bearing caps, using the marks made or noted on removal to ensure that they are fitted the correct way around. 33 Tighten the beanng cap bolts taking care not to disturb the Plastlgauge or rotate the connecting rod dunng the tightening sequence. 34 Dismantle the assemblies without rotating the connecting rods. Use the scale pnnted on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the big-end bearing running clearance. 35 If the clearance is significantly different from that expected, the bearing shells may be Ihe wrong size (or excessively worn. If the original shells are being re-used). Make sure mat no dirt or oil was trapped between Ihe bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge was wider al one end than at the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered.
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7.40a The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the timing belt end of the engine (petrol engine) 36 On completion, carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your fingernail, or some other object which is unlikely to score the beanng surfaces.
Final piston/connecting rod refitting 37 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that alt traces of the protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. 38 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons, and piston rings, then lay out each piston/con-necting rod assembly in its respective position. 39 Start with assembly No 1. Position the piston ring gaps 120° apart, then clamp them in position with a piston nng compressor. 40 Insert Ihe piston/connecting rod assembly into the top of cylinder making sure it is Ihe correct way round. On petrol engines, ensure that the arrow on the piston crown is pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine and on diesel engines, ensure that the cloverleaf-shaped cut-out on the piston crown is towards the front (oil filter side) of the cylinder block. Using a block of wood or hammer handle against the piston crown, tap the assembly into the cylinder until the piston crown is Hush with the top of the cylinder (sea illustrations). 41 Ensure that the bearing shell is still correctly Installed. Liberally lubricate the crankpin and both bearing shells. Taking care not to mark the cylinder bores, pull the piston/connecting rod assembly down the bore and onto the crankpin.
7.40b Inserting the piston/connecting rod assembly into the cylinder bore using a hammer handle (diesel englno) 42 Refit the big-end beanng cap, tightening Its retaining bolts finger-tight at first, Note that Ihe faces with the identification marks must match (which means that the bearing shell locating tabs abut each other). 43 Tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque setting. On diesel engines tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque then angle-tighten them to the specified Stage 2 angle using an angle-measuring gauge, (see illustrations) 44 Once the bearing cap retaining bolts have been correctly tightened, rotate the crankshaft. Check that il turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected if new components have been fitted, but there should be no signs of binding or tight spots. 45 Refit the remaining three piston/ connecting rod assemblies in the same way. 46 Refit the cylinder head, anti-vibration plate (16-valve engines), oil pump pick-up/filter screen assembly and sump with reference to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C.
8 Crankshaft -removal and inspection 35
Removal 1 Remove the
sump,
oil pump and pick-up tube, and flywheel/driveplate with reference to the relevant Sections of Chapter 2 Parts A, 8 or C. On 16-valve engines, unbolt and remove the anti-vibration plate from the main bearing caps.
7.43a Torque-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolls (diesel engine) 7.43b Angle-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolts (diesel engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
8.4 Using a dial gauge to check the crankshaft endfloat 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods, as described in Section 7. However, If no work fs to be done on the pistons and connecting rods there is no need to remove the cylinder head, or to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should just be pushed far enough up the bores that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft Journals. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing from the cylinder block and recover the gasket where fitted. 4 Before removing the crankshaft, check the endfloat using a dial gauge. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero Ihe gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check tho endfloat (see Illustration). The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required. 6 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap - on petrol engines measure between the centre main bearing thrust washer and the crankshaft web. and on diesel engines measure between the rear main bearing and tha crankshaft web. 6 Note the markings on the main bearing caps which vary according to type. On 8-valve petrol engines there is one line on Ihe cap nearest the timing belt end, two on the second cap, C on the centre cap, then three and four lines on the remaining caps (soo illustration). On 16-valve petrol engines, the caps are marked one to five with a series of lines (one line for the cap nearest the timing
8.6 Main bearing markings (petrol engine)
belt end, two for tho next cap and so on). On diesel engines the caps are marked one to live In the same way but with notches instead ol lines. Note also that on some diesel engines the cap nearest the timing belt end Is not marked and the notches therefore start with No 2 cap. 7 Loosen and remove the main bearing cop retaining bolts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. On some diesel engines note that the centre main bearing cap botts are longer than the other bolls. 8 Lift the crankshaft Irom the crankcase and remove the upper bearing shells from the crankcase. If the shells are 1o be used again, keep them identified for position. Also remove the thrustwashers from their position either side of the centre main bearing (petrol engines) or rear main bearing (diesel engines) (see illustrations)
Inspection 9 Wash the crankshaft in a suitable solvent and allow It to dry. Flush the oil holes thoroughly, to ensure that ihey are not blocked - use a pipe cleaner or a needle brush il necessary. Remove any sharp edges from the edge of the holes which may damage the new bearings when they are installed. 10 Inspect the main searing and crankpin journals carefully; if uneven wear, cracking, scoring or pitting are evident then the crankshaft should be reground by an engineering workshop, and refitted to the engine with underslze bearings.
11 Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of each main bearing journal. Taking a number of measurements on the surface of each journal will reveal if it Is worn unevenly. Differences in diameter measured at 90" intervals Indicate that the journal is out of round. Differences In diameter measured aiong the length of the journal, indicate that the journal is tapered. Again. If wear is detected, the crankshaft can be reground by an engineering workshop and refitted with undersize bearings. 12 Check the oil seal journals at either end of the crankshaft. If they appear excessively scored or damaged, they may cause the new seals to leak when the engine is reassembled. It may be possible to repair the |ournal; seek the advice of an engmeenng workshop. 13 Measure the crankshaft runoul by setting up a DTI gauge on the centre main bearing journal and rotating the shaft In V - blocks. The maximum deflection of the gauge will indicate Ihe runout. Take precautions to protect the bearing journals and oil seal mating surfaces from damage during this procedure. A maximum runout figure Is not quoted by the manufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mm
a»
a rough guido. If the runoul exceeds this figure, crankshaft renewal should be considered • consult your Flat dealer or an engine rebuilding specialist for advico. 14 Refer to Section 10 for details of main and big-end bearing inspection.
9 Cylinder block/crankcase - % cleaning and inspection Sk
Cleaning 1 Remove all external components, brackets and electrical switches/sensors from the block Including the rear engine plate, injection pump/oil filter bracket and gasket, Intermediate shaft bracket, oH vapour breather casing, and coolant pump. Also unboit and remove the ol return tube from the crankcase (see illustrations). For complete cleaning, the core plugs should Ideally be removed. Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by
8.8a Removing the thrustwashers.. ... and upper bearing shells (diesel engine) 8.8o Thrustwashers located on the centre main bearing (petrol engine)

3*1
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Contents
Air conditioning system - general Information and precautions .... 9 Mr conditioning system components * removal and refitting 10 Antifreeze mixture See Chapter 1A or 1B Auxiliary drivebell(s) check and renewal See Chapter 1A or IB Coolant level check See Weekly checks Coolant pump - removal, Inspection and refitting 7 Coolant renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B
Degrees of difficulty
Cooling fan switch - testing, removal and refitting 6 Cooling system hoses • disconnection and renewal 2 Electric cooling fan(s) - testing, removal and refitting 5 General information and precautions 1 Heater/ventilation components • removal and refitting 8 Radiator - removal, inspection and refitting 3 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting 4

Easy,
suitable foe JS^, novice
with
little experience ^
Fairly
easy,
sutable for beginner witti
some experience
^
Faiilydifltctit,
suitable
for competent
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
sutable for & experienced DIY « mechanic ^
VerydMlcult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
« or professional
Specifications
General Expansion tank relief valve opening pressure 0.96 bar Coolant pump Impeller-to-casing clearance: Diesel engine models 0.53 to 1.37 mm Petrol engine models 0.4 to 0.9 mm
Thermostat Diesel engine models: Opening temperature: Starts to open 78 to 82*0 Fully open 88°C Maximum valve travel (approximate) 7.5 mm Petrol engine models: Opening temperature: 1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines: Starts to open 85 to 89°C Fully open 100°C 1242 cc (16-valve) engines: Starts to open 81 to 85°C Fully open 103°C Maximum valve lift (approximate) 7.5 mm
Electric cooling fan Petrol engine models with single speed fan: Cut-in temperature 90to94°C Cut-out temperature B5 to 89°C Diesel engine models with twin speed fan: Cut-In temperature: Primary fan 86 to 90® C Secondary fan 90 to 94°C Cut-out temperature: Primary fan 81to85°C Secondary fan 85 to 89°C
Torque wrench settings Nm tbfft Coolant pump pulley securing bolts (diesel engine models) 23 17 Coolant pump securing bolts: Diesel engine models 23 17 Petrol engine models 8 6 Coolant pump securing nuts (petrol engine models) 10 7

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1 General information and precautions
Genera/ Information The engine cooling/cabin heating system is ol pressurised type, comprising a coolant pump driven by the camshaft timing belt (petrol engine models) or auxiliary drlvebelt (diesel engine models), a crossllow radiator, a coolant expansion tank, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, heater matrix, and all associated hoses and switches. The system functions as follows: Ihe coolant pump circulates cold water around the cylinder block and head passages, and through the Inlet manifold, heater matrix and throttle body to the thermostat housing. When the engine Is cold, the thermostat remains closed and prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when the car is in forward motion. The airllow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan. when necessary, As the temperature of the coolant in the radiator drops, it flows to the bottom of the radiator by convection, and passes out through the bottom hose to the coolant pump - the cycle is then repeatod, When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of It is displaced into the expansion tank. Coolant collects In the tank, and ts returned to Ihe radiator when the system cools. On petrol engine models, the expansion tank is integrated into the side of the radiator. On diesel engine models, and certain petrol engine models with air conditioning, the tank is a separate unit, mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment. On turbo diesel engine models, the coolant is also passed through a supplementary engine oil cooler, to assist In controlling the engine lubricant temperature. Tho electric cooling fan mounted in front of the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the swilch/sensor actuates the tan lo provide additional airflow through the radiator, The switch cuts the electrical supply to the Ion when the coolant temperature has dropped below a preset threshold (see Specifications).
Precautions

A


Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, whlio the engine is hot, as then is a high risk of scalding, tf the expansion tank pressure cap must be removed before the
engine and radiator have fulty cooled (even though this is not recommended?, the pressure in the cooling system must first be relieved. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the pressuro cap until a hissing sound Is heard. When the hissing stops, indicating that the pressure has reduced, slowly unscrew the pressure cap until it can be removed; If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep your face well away from the pressure cap opening, and protect your hands.

A


Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or In a puddle In the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal tf ingested.

A


Warning: If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine and ignition are switched off. Be careful to keep your hands, hair, and any loose clothing well clear when working In the engine compartment.
2 Cooling system hoses - f&> disconnection and renewal ^
1 The number, routing and pattern of hoses will vary according to model, but the same basic procedure applies. Before commencing work, make sure that the new hoses are to hand, along wilh new hose clips if needed, it is good practice to renew the hose clips at the same time as the hoses. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 1A or 18, saving the coolant if it is fit for re-use. Apply a little penetrating oil onto the hose clips if they are corroded. 3 Release the hose clips from the hose concerned. Three types of clip are used; worm-drive. spring and 'sardine-can'. The worm-drive clip is released by turning its screw anti-clockwise. The spring clip Is released by squeezing Its tags together with pliers, at the same time working the cbp away from the hose stub. The sardine-can clips are not re-usable, and are best cut off with snips or side cutters. 4 Unclip any wires, cables or other hoses which may be attached to the hose being removed. Make notes for reference when reassembling If necessary. 5 Release the hose from its stubs with a twisting motion. Be careful not to damage the stubs on deltcate components such as the radiator, or thermostat housings. If the hose Is stuck fast, the best course is often to cut it off using a sharp knife, but again be careful not to damage the stubs.
6 Before fitting the new hose, smear the stubs with washing-up liquid or a suitable rubber lubricant to aid fitting. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber. 7 Fit the hose clips over the ends of the hose, then fit the hose over its stubs. Work the hose Into position. When satisfied, locate and tighten the hose dips. 6 Refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. Run the engine, and chock that there are no leaks. 9 Recheck the tightness of Ihe hose clips on any new hoses after a few hundred miles. 10 Top-up the coolant level if necessary.
3 Radiator -
removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal Note: If leakage is the reason for removing
the
radiator, bear In mind that minor leaks can often be cured using proprietary radiator sealing compound, with the radiator in situ. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray. 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as desenbed In Chapter 4B, 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect Ihe (op and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator. In addition on diesel engine models, and petrol engine models with a remotely-sited expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the right hand side ol the radiator (see Illustrations), 5 Unscrew the fixings and lift the plastic trim panel from above the front bumper Unscrew the bolt(s) securing tho radiator to the upper body panel (see Illustration). Note that the radiator and cooling fan assembly share the same upper mounting bolt. 6 Unbolt the cooling fan(e) and shroud assembly from Ihe rear ot the radiator, as described in Section 5.
3.4a Slacken the clip and disconnect the radiator bottom hose

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
3.4b On diesel engine models, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the radiator 3.5 Unscrew the bolts securing the radiator to the uppor body panel
3.8 Disengage the lower mountings studs from the onglne compartment lower crossmember
4.6a Removing the thermostat housing (petrol engine) 4.6b Thermostat housing location - Ignition distributor removed for clarity (petrol engine) ? Withdraw the mounting brackets (where applicable), and recover the upper mounting rubbers. 8 Carefully tilt the radiator back towards the engine, then disengage the lower mountings studs from the crossmember and lift the radiator from the engine compartment (see illustration). Recover the lower mounting rubbers if they are loose. Inspect/on 9II the radiator has been removed due to suspected blockage, it may be flushed out as descnbed in Chapter lAor 10. Clean dirt and debris from the radiator fins, using an air line fn which case, wear eye protection) or a soft Brush. Be careful, as the fins are sharp, and
can
also be easily damaged. ID If necessary, a radiator specialist can perform a flow test on the radiator, to establish whether an internal blockage exists. 11 A leaking radiator must be referred to a specialist for permanent repair. Do not attempt to weld or solder a leaking radiator, as damage to the plastic components may result. Note: In
an emergency,
minor
leaks
from the radiator can often be cured by using a suitable radiator seat'ng compound, in accordance with its manu-
facturer's
instructions, with the radiator in situ. 12 If the radiator is to be sent for repair or is
to
be renewed, remove all hoses (and where
applicable, the cooling fan switch). 13 Inspect Ihe radiator mounting rubbers, and renew them if necessary. Refitting 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the radiator lower lugs engage correctly with the lower mounting rubbers. b) On completion, refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or IB.
Thermostat - Jk removal, testing and refitting #
General 1 The thermostat housing Is bolted to the left hand end of the cylinder head. The thermostat itself cannot be separated from the housing and can only be renewed as part of a complete assembly.
Removal 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On diesel engine models, unbolt the wiring harness/fuel hose support bracket from the housing. On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine
models, remove the air cleaner and inlet ducts as descnbed in Chapter 4B. 4 Slacken the clipfs) and detach the coolant hose(s) from the thermostai housing, Make a careful note of their orientation to aid refitting. 5 Where applicable, disconnect the wiring plug from the cooling fan switch and coolant temperature sensor, which are threaded into the thermostat cover. 6 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the thermostat housing from the cylinder head (see illustrations). If it sticks, tap it gently first on one side and then the other to free it - do not lever between the mating faces. Recover the remains of the old c,
4.6c Removing the thermostat housing (diesel engine)

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Testing 7 A rough test of the thermostat may be made by suspending it with a piece of siring in a container full of water. Heat tho water to bring it to the boii and observe the movement of the vaive shaft through the inlet port (see illustrations). 6 The thermostat valve must be fully open, by the time the water boils. If not, renew the complete IhermOstat/housIng assembly. 9 If a thermometer is available, the precise opening temperature of the thermostat may be determined; compare with the figures given in the Specifications. The opening temperature Is also marked on the thermostat housing. 10 Note that a thermostat which falls to close completely as ihe water cools must also be renewed.
Refitting 11 Ensure that the cylinder head and thermostat housing mating surfaces are
completely clean and free from ail traces of Ihe old gasket material. 12 Lay a new gasket In position on the cylinder head, then fit the thermostat housing and Insert retaining bolts, tightening them securely.
Caution: Do not over-tlghten tho retaining bolts, as tho alloy casting could easily be damaged 13 Where applicable, transfer the cooling fan switch and coolant temperature sensor to the new housing. 14 Refit the coolant hose(s) to the ports on the thermostat housing and lighten the clips securely. 15 Where applicable, refit the harness/hose support bracket to the thermostat housing and tighten the bolts securely. Also refit the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as described in Chapter 4B 15 Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 1B.
5 Electric cooling fan(s) -testing, removal and refitting ^
Testing 1 Detailed fault diagnosis should be camw out by a Rat dealer using dedicated tesl equipment, but basic diagnosis can be car&c out as follows. 2 If the fan does not appear to work, run if* engine until normal operating temperature s reached, Ihen allow It to idle. The fan shouldcti In within a few minutes (before lite temperalure gauge needle enters the red section), il nol. switch off the engine and disconnect tfie cooling fan motor wiring connector. 3 The motor can be tested by disconnecting it from the wiring loom, and connecting a 12? volt supply directly to It. The motor should operate - if not. the motor, or the motor wiring. Is faulty.
frotf heater from cylinder head mdotor
4.7b Thermostat operation in the fully closed position (diesel engine)
from neoier Irom cylinder head radiator
4.7c Thermostat operation in the fully open position (diesel engine)

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
4 If the motor operates when tested as described, (he fault must lie In the engine wring harness or the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor/switch can be tested as described in Section 6. Any further fault Diagnosis should be referred to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer - do not attempt to test
Ihe
electronic control unit.
Removal 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/scon oecf/ng the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray to improve access. On 1242 cc {16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and
inset
ducts as described in Chapter 4B. 1 Disconnect the motor wiring connectorfs). 8 Unbolt the shroud from the rear of the ratiator. then lift out the cooling fan assembly. Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal
6 Cooling fan switch -testing, removal and refitting ^
Testing 1 The switch is threaded into the lower left
nand
comer of the radiator. 2 The switch can be tested by removing it,
and
checking that the switching action occurs
at
the correct temperature {heat the sensor in a container of water, and monitor the temperature with a thermometer). 3 There should be no continuity between the switch terminals, until Ihe specified cooling fan cut-In temperature Is reached, when continuity (and zero resistance) should exist between the terminals.
Removal 4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 5 Allow the engine to cool completely, then drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1Aor 1B. 6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
bolts...
7 Carefully unscrew the sensor and. whore applicable, recover the sealing ring. Refitting 8 If the sensor was originally fitted using sealing compound, clean the sensor threads thoroughly, and coat them with fresh sealing compound. 9 If the sensor was originally fitted using a sealing ring, use a new sealing ring on refitting. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. 11 On completion, start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature. Continue to run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in and out correctly.
7 Coolant pump • & removal, inspection 5 and refitting
Removal
Petrol engine models 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system and remove the auxiliary drivebett(s) as described In Chapter 1 A. 3 Remove the timing belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 4 Unscrew the securing bolts/nuts, and withdraw the coolant pump (see illustrations).
7.9b ... and lift off the pulley (diesel engine)
(petrol engine) If the pump Is stuck, tap it gently using a soft-faced mallet - do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Diesel engine models 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/s connecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1B. 7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as descnbed In Chapter 1B. 6 On models fitted with power steenng, refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power steering pump from its mountings; this can be achieved without disconnecting the power steering fluid hoses from the pump. Tie the pump away from the work area, taking care to avoid kinking the fluid hoses. 9 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the coolant pump pulley. It will be necessary to counterhold the pulley In order to unscrew the bolts, and this is most easily achieved by wrapping an old drivebelt tightly around the pulley to act in a similar manner to a strap 3 wrench. Alternatively, a stout screwdriver can be braced between two of the pulley bolts while the third is slackened (see illustrations). 10 Disconnect ihe bypass hoses from the coolant pump outlet stubs. 11 Unscrew the securing bolts, and withdraw the coolant pump assembly. Note that the pump must be detached from the transfer pipe than runs behind the cylinder block to the thermostat housing (see illustration). The pipe is a push fit in the port on the rear of the coolant pump
7.11 Removing the coolant pump assembly (diesel engine)

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
1 General information and precautions
General information The iAW Weber-Marelli single point Injection (SPI) system is a self-contained engine management system, which controls both the fuel Injection and Ignition (see Illustration), This Chapter deals with the fuel Injection system components only - refer to Chapter 5B for details ol the ignition system components. The fuel Injection system comprises a fuel tank, an electric fuel pump, a fuel filter, fuel supply and return lines, a throttle body with an integral electronic fuel Injector, and an Electronic Control Unit (ECU) together with its associated sensors, actuators and wiring. The fuel pump delivers a constant supply of fuel through a cartridge fitter to the throttle body, and the fuel pressure regulator (integral with the throttle body) maintains a constant fuel pressure at the fuel injector and returns excess fuel to the tank via the return line. This
constant flow system also helps to reduce fuel temperature and prevents vaporisation. Tne fuel injeclor Is opened and closed by an Electronic Control Unit (ECU), which calculates the injection timing and duration according to engine speed, throttle position and rate of opening, Inlet air temperature, coolant temperature and exhaust gas oxygen content information, received from sensors mounted on the engine. inlet air is drawn Into the engine through the air cleaner, which contains a renewable paper filter element. The inlet air temperature is regulated by a vacuum operated valve mounted in the air ducting, which blends air at ambient temperature with hot air, drawn from over the exhaust manifold. Idle speed is controlled by a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body. Cold starling enrichment is controlled by the ECU using the coolant temperature and inlet air temperature parameters to increase the injector opening duration. The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda (oxygen) sensor, which is mounted in
me exhaust downpipe. The ECU then uses this Information to modify the Injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio. An exhaust catalyst Is fitted to all SPI models. The ECU also controls the operation of the activated charcoal filter evaporative loss system • refer to Chapter 4D for further details. It should be noted that fault diagnosis of the I IAW Weber-Marelli system is only possible with dedicated electronic test equipment. Problems with the system should therefore be I referred to a Flat dealer for assessment. Once i the fault has been Identified, the I removal/refitting procedures detailed in the following Sections can then be followed.
Precautions |

A


Warning: Many procedures in thH Chapter require the removal ot fuel lines and connections, which may result in fuel spillage. Before carrying | out any operation on Me fuel system, refer to the precautions given In Safety flrstt at the beginning ot this manual, and follow them Implicitly. Petrol Is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions
1.1 IAW Weber-Marelli single point Injection (SPI) system 1 Fuel
tank
2 Fuel pump 3 Fuel filter 4 Anii'reflux valve 5 Fuel pressure regulator 6 Injector
7 Air cleaner 8 Fuel vapour
trap
9 Idle stepper motor
10
Absolute pressure sensor J11njection/ignition ECU 12 Tnrottle position sensor
13 Engine coolant temperature sensor 14 Intake air temperature sensor 15 Inject'onfignitron dual
relay
16 Ignition coils 17 Rpm and TDC sensor
18 Spark plugs 79 Diagnostic socket 20 EVAP solenoid 21 Lambda/oxygen sensor 22 Rev counter 23 IAW failure warning light

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
2.4a Disconnect the large breather hose... ziecessary when handling it cannot be mrstressed. Note that residual pressure
wttf
remain in the tuei lines long after the wh/cte was last used, When disconnecting any fuel line, first depressurise the fuel
system
(see Section 8).
2 Air cleaner and intet system • removal and refitting
1
Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment l
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner element as described in Chapter 1A. 2 Disconnect the outer section from the hot
air
tube and the inlet air duct and remove it
from
the engine compartment. 3II necessary remove the inlet air duct. 4 Disconnect Ihe large and small breather
roses
from the inner section of the air cleaner, tftsn unscrew the retaining nuts and lift the section from the throttle body (see lustrations).
5
Recover the sealing ring. Check the ring for condition and renew it if necessary.
6
Wipe clean the inner surfaces of both the merand outer sections of the air cleaner. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal ol removal but renew
tie
element
H
necessary.
3 Inlet air temperature regulator -removal and refitting
Removal t
The
thermostatically-controlled cold air flap cpener is located in the air cleaner outer ttsrig section. To check the unit, disconnect
ire air
inlet duct with the engine cold and use imrrorto check that the flap Is positioned to aJmit only hot air from the shroud on the utaust manifold. Next, warm up the engine
and
check that the flap moves to admit only sett air from the inlet duct. If the unit is faulty fl must be renewed.
2
Remove the air cleaner element as •senbod in Chapter
1
A.
kickdown cable adjustment as described in Chapter 7B before adjusting the accelerator cable • in its rest position the accelerator pedal should have approximately 8.0 mm free travel.
5 Engine management system components -removal and refitting I
2.4b ... and the small breather hose ...
3 Unscrew the retaining screw and remove the regulator from the air cleaner outer section.
Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet ducting as desenbed in Section 2. 2 To release the cable from the throttle body, unscrew the outer cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam, and release the outer cable from its mounting bracket. 3 Working under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 4 Release the bulkhead grommet and withdraw the accelerator cable from Inside the engine compartment.
Refitting and adjustment 5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but adjust the cable (by means of the outer cable locknuts) so that there is only a very small amount of free play present at the throttle body end of the inner cable. Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal, and check that the throttle cam opens fully and returns to the at-rest position, then secureJy tighten the cable locknuts. On Selecta models, check the
Note: Refer to the warning given in Section 1 before proceeding. Throttle body assembly
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as desenbed in Section 2. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the throttle potentiometer, idle control stepper motor, inlet air temperature sensor and the injector wiring loom connector situated on the front of the throttle body. 3 Depressurise the fuel system with reference to Section 8, then release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses from the throttle body assembly, if the original Fiat retaining clips are still fitted, cut the clips and discard them; replace them with standard luel hose clips on refitting. 4 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam and froe tho outer cable from its retaining bracket. Position the cable clear of the throttle body. 5 Disconnect the EVAP purge valve hose, and the MAP sensor hose from the rear of the throttle body. 6 Slacken and remove the four bolts securing the throttle body assembly to tho Inlet manifold, then remove the assembly along with its insulating spacer. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure, bearing in mind the following points: a) Examine the insulating spacer for signs of damage, and renew //necessary, b) Ensure that the throttle body, inlet manifold and insulating spacer ma ting surfaces are clean and dry, then fit the throttle body and spacer, and securely tighten the retaining bolts.
2.4c ... then remove the retaining nuts. 2.4d ... and remove the air cleaner inner section

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
1 The luel system referred to In this Section is defined as the tank-mounted fuel pump, the fuel litter, the throttle body and pressure regulator components, and the metal pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel lines between these components. All ihese contain fuel which will be under pressure while the engine Is running and/or while tha Ignition is switched on. The pressure will remain for some time after tho ignition has been switched off, and must be relieved before any of these components are disturbed (or servicing work. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/sconnecf/ngr the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 3 Place a container beneath the relevant connection/union to be disconnected, and have a large rag ready to soak up any escaping fuel not being caught by the container. 4 Slowly loosen the connection or union nut (as applicable) to avoid a sudden release of pressure, and wrap tho rag around the connection to catch any fuel spray which may be expelled. Once the pressure is released, disconnect the fuel line, and Insert plugs to minimise fuel loss and prevent the entry of dirt Into the fuel system.
9 Inlet manifold -removal and refitting ^
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section 1 before proceeding.
Removal 1 Remove the throttle body assembly as described in Section 5. 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A. 3 Disconnect the winng connector from the coolanl temperature sensor (situated on the left-hand sidB of the manifold). 4 Undo the bolt securing the accelerator cable mounting bracket to the manifold, and position it clear of the manifold. 5 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect tha coolant hose from the rear of the manifold. 6 Disconnect the brake vacuum hose. 7 Undo the seven manifold retaining nuts and
10.2 The diagnostic connector la located behind the ECU bolts, and remove (he manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket and discard It; a new one should be used on refitting.
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces are clean and dry, and fit a nev/ manifold gasket. Refit the manifold and securely tighten Its retaining nuts. b) Ensure that all relevant hoses are reconnected fo their original positions and are securely held (where necessary) by the retaining clips. c) Refit the throttle body assembly with reference to Section S. d) On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A.
correctly adjusted, and that the engine breather hoses are clear and undamaged. 2 If these checks fall to reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing. A wiring block connector Is Incorporated In the engine management circuit, into which a special electronic diagnostic tester can be plugged; the connector is situated behind the ECU (see Illustration). The tester will locate the fault quickly and simply, alleviating the need to test all the system components Individually, which is a time-consuming operation that carries a high risk of damaging the ECU.
Adjustments 3 As mentioned above, the idle speed and mixture adjustment are all monitored and controlled by the ECU, and are not adjustable Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and ihe idle speed. However, If thes* are found lo be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Flat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
11 Unleaded petrol -general Information and usage
10 Fuel injection system - & testing and adjustment S
Testing 1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection system, first ensure that all the system winng connectors are securely connected and free of corrosion. Then ensure that the fault Is not due to poor maintenance; ie, check that the air cleanor fitter element is clean, the spark plugs are In good condition and correctly gapped, that tho valve clearances are
Note: The information given in this Chapter
is
correct at the time of writing. If updated Information is thought to be required, check with a Fiat dealer. If travelling abroad, consult one of the motonng organisations (or a similar authority) for advice on the fuel available. 1 All petrol models are fitted with a catalytic converter and must be run on unleaded fuel only - the fuel recommended by Flat is given In the Specifications of this Chapter. Under no circumstances should leaded fuei (UK 4-slar) be used, as this may damage the converter. 2 Super unleaded petrol (98 octane) can also be used in all models if wished, though there is no advantage in doing so.