nut torque FIAT PUNTO 1997 176 / 1.G Service Manual

7B*4 Automatic transmission
2 Automatic transmission - ^ removal and refitting St
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels, 2 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described In Chapter 5A. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet duct as described In Chapter 4A. 4 Disconnect the kickdown cable at the sector on the throttle housing and detach It from the mounting on the camshaft cover. Also release the cable from the support on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the wiring connectors on the transmission. 6 Disconnect the fluid inlet and outlet Unas from the heat exchanger on top of the transmission. 7 Pull the fluid level dipstick from Its tube on the front of the transmission and tape over the top of the tube to prevent dirt entry. 8 Unscrew and remove the retaining pin and disconnect the speed selector cable from the top of the transmission. 9 Unscrew the upper bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 10 Unscrew the upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 11 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively UBO a trolley jack and block of wood beneath the engine, 12 Remove the screws and remove the front wheel arch liner from under the left-hand wheel arch. 13 Unscrew the nut securing the earth cablo to the transmission. 14 Using a punch drive out the roll pins securing both driveshafts to the final drive output shafts. 15 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 16 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and slide the inner end of the driveshaft from the splines on the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the gaiters. 17 Unscrew the lambdafoxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position it In a safe place to prevent damage. 18 Unscrew ihe nuts securing the downpipe to Ihe exhaust manifold, then lower It and suppon on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 19 Unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing.
3-2 Locking the flywheel when removing the electromagnetic clutch 20 Unscrew the remaining bolt securing the staner motor to the transmission 21 Unbolt and remove Ihe lower flywheel cover from the transmission. 22 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting lo the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 23 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body thon unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 24 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the bellhouslng and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle.

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Warning: Support the transmission to ensure that It remains steady on the Jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft and pump shaft are fully withdrawn from the electromagnetic clutch housing.
Refitting 25 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a} Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the splines of the transmission input shaft and oil pump driveshaft.
3.6 Checking the resistance of the clutch windings 1 Slip rings
0) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the
specified
torque, where given, c) Renew both driveshaft roll pins.
3 Electro-magnetic clutch • & removal, inspection 5. and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove Ihe transmission as described n Section 2. 2 Turn the flywheel so that two of the lour mounting bolts are accessible, Hold tha flywheel stationary then unscrew Ihe tvrt bolts. To hold the flywheel, Insert a wida bladed screwdriver In the ring gear teeth or alternatively use a piece of angle iron against one of the retaining bolts temporarily Inserted in the cylinder block (see illustration). 3 Turn the crankshaft half a turn and unscrew the remaining bolts, then withdraw the electromagnetic clutch.
Inspection 4 Turn the driven element by means of tha slip rings, and check that the bearing is not noisy or rough. 5 Inspect the slip rings for burning or other damage. Clean them if necessary using fid and a clean rag. 6 Check the resistance of the clutch windings, using an ohmmetor connected across the slip rings (see Illustration). The resistance at 20*0 should be 2 to 4 ohms. 7 Check the Insulation of the windings, using an ohmmeter connected between either sip ring and the body of the clutch (see illustration). Resistance should be Infinity. 8 If the clutch fails any of the foregoing checks, renew it. Apart from the brush gear, Individual spares are not available.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal but tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
windings

6*172

Chapter 8
Driveshafts
Contents
Oriveshaft gaiter check See Chapter 1A or 1B General information 1 Oriveshaft overhaul and rubber gaiter renewal 3 intermediate driveshaft - removal and refitting 4 Driveshafts - removal and refitting 2
Degrees of difficulty

Easy,
suitable for ^ novtoewithittle experience ^
Fatly
easy,
suitable for beginner with
some experience
^

Fairty
difficult, suitable
tor
competent OtYmechanlc

Difficult,
suitable for experienced DIY mechanic ^
Veiydfficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Lubrication lubricant type
Torque wrench settings Driveshaft nut* All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Roadwheel bolts Suspension strut-to-hub carrier bolts Track-rod balljolnt-to-hub carrier 'Use a new nut.
Unequal-length, solid steel shafts, splined to Inner and outer constant velocity joints. Intermediate shaft with support bearing on turbo diesel models with equal length driveshafts.
Fiat specification grease, supplied with gaiter repair kit
Nm Ibfft
240 177 280 207 85 63 70 52 40 30
1 General information
Power is transmitted from the differential to
Ihe
roadwheels by the driveshafts. via inboard and outboard constant velocity (CV) joints (we illustrations). An intermediate drive shaft, with its own support bearing is fitted between the gearbox output and right-hand drive shafts on turbo desei models (see Illustration overleaf). This layout has the effect of equalising driveshaft angles at sll suspension positions and reduces tfveshaft flexing, which improves directional stability, particularly under acceleration. The outer Rzeppa type CV joints allow smooth transmission of drive to the wheels at all steering and suspension angles. Drive Is transmitted by means of a number of radially static steel balls that run In grooves between
the two halves of the joint. The type of inboard CV joint fitted is model dependant. Those fitted to all except the turbo diesel models are of the plunge-cup type; drive is transmitted across the joint by means of three rollers, mounted on the driveshaft in a tripod arrangement, that are radially static but are free to slide in the grooved plunge cup.
The inboard CV joints fitted to turbo diesel models are of the Rzeppa type, similar to those at the outboard end of the driveshaft. On the right-hand driveshafl, the joint is bolted directly to the end of the intermediate driveshaft flange. On the left-hand driveshaft, the joint is bolted to the transmission output shaft flange.
1.1a Cross section of driveshaft - petrol and non-turbo diesel models A Transmission side B Roadwheef side

Driveshafts 8*3
2.9 On turbo diesel models, unscrew the driveshaft Allen bolts (right-hand driveshaft shown) 2.13 Fitting a new driveshaft nut
then pull the driveshaft away from the plunge cup. Position a container underneath the joint to catch any grease that may escape fdnveshaft grease becomes liquid with use). 6 Remove the driveshaft from under the vehicle. Cover the open plunge cup on the vehicle to prevent the ingress of dirt: use a plastic bag secured with elastic bands. Turbo diesel models 9 Unscrew the six Allen bolts securing the inboard end of the driveshaft to the inter-mediate shaft flange (right hand driveshaft) or gearbox output shaft flange (left hand drive-shaft flange) (see Illustration). Recover tho reinforcement plates (where fitted). 10 Remove the driveshaft from under the vehicle. Cover the exposed flange at the gearbox/intermediate shaft, to prevent the ingress of dirt; use a plastic bag secured with elastic bands. 11 Loosely refit one of the strut lower mounting bolts, to support the hub carrier whilst the driveshaft is out of the vehicle.
Befitting 12 After removing the temporarily-fitted bolt torn the strut mounting, pivot the hub carrier away from the vehicle and push the splined end of the driveshaft Into the hub.
13 Fit a new driveshaft nut, but do not fully tighten it at this point (see illustration). 14 Support the driveshatt with one hand and push the hub carrier back towards the vehicle. All models except turbo diesels 15 Re-engage the tripod at the inboard end of the driveshaft with the plunge cup at the gearbox. Slide the gaiter into position over the joint and briefly lift the lip of the gaiter to expel any air trapped inside. Ensure that the gaiter is seated squarely over the universal joint, then fit a new clip around the centre of the joint to secure it in place. Turbo diesel models 16 Align the inboard end of the driveshaft joint with the intermediate shaft flange. Refit the six driveshaft bolts and tighten them securely. All models 17 Refit the suspension strut-to-hub carrier bolts and tighten them to the correct torque * refer to Chapter 10 for details. 18 Refit the brake caliper hydraulic hose (and where applicable, the brake pad wear indicator cable) to the bracket on the base of the suspension strut. 19 Refit the roadwheel and bolts. 20 Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the driveshaft nut to the specified
torque. Stake the rim of the nut into the machined recess in the end of the driveshaft. using a hammer and punch (see illustrations). 21 Tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque and refit the wheel trim/centre cap.
3 Driveshaft overhaul and rubber gaiter renewal
1 Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle as described In Section 2. 2 Unfasten the remainder of the rubber gaiter securing clips. Slide the gaiters towards the centre of the shaft, away from Ihe joints. Wipe off the majority of the old grease with a rag. Outboard CV joint - removal
All models except turbo diesels 3 Mark the relationship between the joint and the driveshaft using a scriber or a dab of paint. Using pair of circlip pliers, expand the circlip that holds the driveshaft m place and withdraw the shaft from the CV joint. Note that the circlip is captive in tho joint, and need not be removed, unless it appears damaged or worn (see illustration overleaf).
2.20a Tighten the driveshaft nut to the specified torque (roadwheel removed for clarity) 2.20b Stake the rim ot the nut Into the recess in the driveshaft 2.20c Recess machined into end of the driveshaft

9*8 Braking system
6 Carefully examine the Inside of tho drum. Light scoring of the friction surface is normal, but if heavy scoring Is found, the drum must be renewed. 7 It is usual to find a lip on the dmm's inboard edge which consists of a mixture of rust and brake dust: this should be carefully scraped away, to leave a smooth surface which can be polished with fine (120 to 150-grade) emery paper. If, however, the tip is due to the friction surface being recessed by excessive wear, then the drum must be renewed. 6 If the drum Is thought to be excessively worn, or oval, its internal diameter must be measured at several points using an internal micrometer. Take measurements In pairs, the second at right-angles to the first, and compare the two, to check for signs of ovality. Provided that it does not enlarge the dium to beyond the specified maximum diameter, it may be possible to have the drum refinished by skimming or grinding; if this is not possible, Ihe drums on both sides must be renewed. Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTH drums must be refinished. to maintain a consistent Internal diameter on both sides.
Refitting 9 II a new brake drum is to be Installed, use a suitable solvent to remove any preservative coating thai may have been applied to its internal fnction surfaces. Note that it may also be necessary to shorten the adjuster strut length, by rotating the sedated strut wheel, lo allow Ihe drum lo poss over the brake shoes • see Section S for details. 10 II tho original dfum is being refitted, align the marks made on the drum and hub before removal, then lit the drum over the hub. Refit the locating studs and tighten them to the specified torque. 11 Depress the footbrake repeatedly to expand the brake shoes against the drum, and ensure that normal pedal pressure Is restored. 12 Check and if necessary adjust the handbrake cable as described In Section 9. 13 Refit tho roadwheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
7 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting jS

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Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warnings at tho beginning of Sections 2 and 11 concerning the dangers ot handling asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the brake drum fsee Section 6). 2 Remove the brake shoes (see Section 5). 3 To minimise fluid loss during the following operations, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten it down onto a piece of polythene, lo obtain an airtight seal.
the hydraulic pipe from the rear of the wheel cylinder 4 Clean the brake backplate around Ihe wheel cylinder mounting boits and the hydraulic pipe union, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect Ihe hydraulic pipe (see illustration). Cover the open ends of the pipe and the master cylinder to prevent dirt ingress, 5 Remove the securing bolts, then withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate (soe Illustration).
Overhaul Note: Before commencing woric, ensure that the appropriate wheel cylinder overhaul kit is obtained. 6 Clean tho assembly thoroughly, using only methylated spirit or clean brake fluid, 7 Peel off both rubber dust covers, then use paint or similar to mark one ot the pistons so that the pistons are not interchanged on reassembly. 8 Withdraw both pistons and tho spring. 9 Discard the rubber piston cups and the dust covers. These components should be renewed as a matter of course, and are available 3s part of an overhaul kit, which also Includes the bleed nipple dust cap. 10 Check the condition of the cylinder bore and the pistons - the surfaces must be perfect and free from scratches, scoring and corrosion, It is advisable to renew the complete wheel cylinder if there is any doubt as to the condition ot the cylinder bore or pistons. 11 Ensure thai all components are clean and dry. The pistons, spring and cups should be
8.4 Location of brake tight switch-LHD model shown
withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate fitted wet, using hydraulic fluid as a lubricant • soak them in clean fluid before installation. 12 Fit the cups to the pistons, ensuring that they are the correct way round. Use only your fingers (no tools) to manipulate the cups into position. 13 Fit the first piston to the cylinder, taking care not to distort the cup. If the original pistons are being re-used, ihe marks
made on
dismantling should be used to ensure that the pistons are refitted to their original bores, 14 Refit the spring and the second pfston. 15 Apply a smear of rubber grease to Ihe exposed end of each piston and to the dust cover sealing lips, then fit Ihe dust covers to each end of the wheel cylinder.
Refitting 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearirg in mind the following points: a) Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. b) Refit the brake shoes as desenbod
In
Section 5. and refit the brake drum
as
described in Section 6. c) Before refitting the roadwheel
and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, remove the polythene from the fluid reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic
system
as described in Section f
1.
Note that if
nc
other part of the system has been disturbed, it should only bo necessary
to
bleed the relevant rear circuit.
8 Stop-light switch • & adjustment, removal J? and refitting
Adjustment 1 The switch plunger operates on a ratchet 2 If adjustment Is required, pull the plunge fully out - (he 9witch then sell-adjusts as the brake pedal Is applied and released.
Removal 3 Ensure that the ignition Is switched to OfF. 4 For Improved access, remove the driver's side lower facia panel, as described in Chapter 11 (see Illustration). 5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch.

10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks

Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^

Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^

FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^

Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37

Suspension and steering 10*2
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm ibt ft Rasr suspension Damper lower securing bolt 95 70 Damper upper securing bolt 60 44 Handbrake cable support bracket-to-trailing arm screws 15 11 Hub nut 280 207 Trailing arm securing bolt 150 111 Steering Ignition switch/steering column lock securing bolts 4 3 Steering column mounting bolts 55 41 Steering gear mounting bolts 70 52 Steering wheel nut' 50 37 Subframe-to-body bolts 110 81 Track-rod end to hub carrier 40 30 Unlversaijointclampbolts 20 15 Roadwheels Roadwheel bolts 85 63 * Use a new nut
1 General information
Front suspension The front suspension is independent, comprising transverse lower wishbones, coil spring-over-damper strut units and an anti-roll bar. The hub carriors are bolted to the base of the stmt units and are linked to the lower arms by means ot balliotnts. The entire front suspension assembly is mounted on a subframe, which is In turn botted to the vehicle body.
Rear suspension The rear suspension incorporates a torsion beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and separate telescopic dampers. In addition, a rear anil-roll bar is fitted to certain models. The components form a discrete sub-assembly which can be unboiled from the underside of the vehicle separately or as a complete unit.
Steering The two-piece steering shaft runs in a tubular column assembly, which is bolted to a bracket mounted on the vehicles bulkhead. The shaft Is articulated at its lower end by means of a universal Joint, which is clamped to the steering shaft and the steering gear pinion by moans of clamp bolts. The steering gear is mounted on the engine compartment bulkhead, and is connected to the steering arms projecting rearwards from Ihe hub carriers. The track-rods are fitted with balljoints at their inner and outer ends, to allow for suspension movement, and are threaded to facilitate ad|ustment. Hydrauiically-assisted power steering ts fittod to some models. The hydraulic system is powered by a belt-driven servo pump, which is driven from the crankshaft pulley.
Certain models are fitted with an airbag system. Sensors built into the vehicle body are triggered in the event of a front end collision and prompt an Electronic Control Unll (ECU) to activate the airbag, mounted In the centre of the steering wheel and the facia. This reduces the risk of the front seat occupants striking the steering wheel, windscreen or facia during an accident.

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Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongty advised to entrust to an authorised Flat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbag system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage, in addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check that the airbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
2 Front hub bearings -renewal *
Note: A balljoint separator tool, and a press or suitable alternative tools (see text) will be required for this operation. The bearing will be destroyed during the removal procedure.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake disc and caliper, with reference to Chapter 9. Note that the caliper body can remain bolted to its bracket: there is no need lo disconnect the brake fluid hose from the caliper. 3 With reference to Chapter 8. slacken and remove the driveshaft hub nut. 4 On models with ABS, unbolt the ABS wheel sensor, and remove the screw securing the
ABS sensor wiring to the hub carrier. Suspend the sensor away from the working ares, to avoid the possibility of damage. 5 With reference to Section 17, separate
th»
track-rod end from the hub carrier, using
a
suitable balljoint splitter. 6 Remove the two nuts from tho botts securing Ihe hub carrier to the base of th» suspension strut (refer to Section
3).
Withdrew the bolts and separate the top of hub earrtt from the strut. 7 Disconnect the outboard end of Ito driveshaft from the hub, as described durirg the driveshaft removal and refitting procedm in Chapter 8. Note: There is no naod fo disconnect the Inboard end of the
drivestett
from the transmission. Caution: Do not allow the end of tin driveshaft to hang down under its
own
weight, as this places strain on the
CV
joints; support the end of the shaft uskg wire or string. 8 Slacken and remove the nut and clamp bolt, then push the lower arm down anc separate the balljoint from the base of the tab carrier (see illustrations). 9 At this stage, it is recommended that
the bub
carrier be taken to a engineering workshop,
as
the hub and bearing should ideally be removed from the hub carrier using a hydraulic press
2.8a ... Slacken and remove the nut...

Suspension and steering 10*3
2.10 Using a slide hammer to extract the hub 2.11 Wheel bearing components / Hub carrier 2 Wheel bearing 3 Circlip
Owners wishing to attempt the work them-
selves
should proceed as follows. 10 Mount tho hub carrier firmly In a bench vice. Attach a slide hammer to the hub flange and extract the hub. together with the inner bearing race, If it has remained attached to the hub. Unbolt and remove the heat shield
(see
Illustration). 11 Mount the hub carrier horizontally in the rice, then remove tho bearing retaining circlip. Using a suitable length of tubing as a drift, drive Ihe bearing outer race from the carrier (see Illustration). Note that a flange on the outboard side of the carrier means that the bearing can only be driven out in one direction. 12 Support the inner bearing race, if it has remained attached to the hub, then press or drive the hub from the race. Alternatively, pull trie bearing race from the hub using a suitable Iw or three-legged puller. 13 Before Installing the new bearing, thoroughly clean the bearing location in the tub carrier. U Fit the new bearing from the Inboard side the hub: press or drive the bearing into position, applying pressure only to the bearing oiler race. Oo not lubricate the mating surface
ol the
bearing In an attempt to ease installation. 15 Fit the bearing retaining circlip to its 700ve in the hub carrier, then refit the heat
shield and tighten the retaining screw securely. 16 Support the outer face of the hub carrier across the jaws of a bench vice. 17 Carefully press or draw the hub into the bearing, noting that the bearing inner race must be supported during Ihis operation, to prevent It from being separated from the outer race. This can be achieved using a suitable socket, threaded rod, washers and a length of bar (see Illustration). 18 On completion, check that the hub rotates freely in the hub carrier without resistance or roughness.
2.17 Typical method of drawing the hub into the wheel bearing using improvised tools
Refitting 19 Reconnect the outboard end of the drive-shaft to the hub as described In Chapter 8. Ensure that the driveshaft nut is tightened to the correct torque and adequately staked. Ideally, for safety reasons due to the very high torque of the driveshaft nut, carry out final tightening and staking of the nut after refitting the roadwheel and lowering the car to the ground. 20 Reconnect the hub carrier to the lower arm balljoint, then fit a new clamp bolt nut. Tighten tho nut to the specified torque. 21 Engage the hub carrier with the suspension strut, then refit the securing bolts and nuts, tightening them to the specified torque. 22 Reconnect the steering track-rod balljoint to the hub carrier steering arm. Use a new nut and tighten it to the specified torque. 23 Refer to Chapter 9 and refit the brake disc and caliper. 24 Where applicable, fit the ABS wheel sensor into its mounting hole and tighten the securing screw. 25 Refit the roadwheel, and tower the vehicle to the ground. 26 Have the front wheel alignment checked by a Fiat dealer or a tyre specialist at the earliest opportunity.

Suspension and steering 10*5
3,9s Withdraw the coll spring, complete with the compressors ... 3.9b ... then withdraw the dust cover and bump rubber 3.9c Fully dismantled strut
10 With the strut assembly now dismantled, examine all the components tor wear, damage or deformation. Check the rubber com-ponents for deterioration. Renew any of the components as necessary. 11 Examine tho damper for signs of fluid teakage. Check the damper rod for signs of pitting along its entire length, and check the stjul body for signs of damage. White holding fc
in an
upright position, test the operation of
Ihe
stmt by moving Ihe damper rod through a fut stroke, and then through short strokes of
SO
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance Id should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any wsible sign of wear or damage to the strut, renewal is necessary. Note that the damper cannot be renewed independently, and if leakage, damage or corrosion Is evident, the complete strut/damper assembly must be renewed {in which case, the spring, upper mounting components, bushes, and associated components can be transferred to
Ihe
new strut). 12 If any doubt exists about the condition of
Ihe
coil spring, carefully remove the spring compressors, and check the spring for distortion and signs of cracking. Renew the spring if it is damaged or distorted, or if there isany doubt about its condition. a Warning: Coil springs are /j\ classified by their height when '
11
• undor load • this Is indicatod by a
coloured
paint marking on the side of the
coll windings (either green or yellow). All coll springs fitted to tho vehicle must be of the same classification to ensure the correct ride height. 13 Clamp the strut body in a vice, as dunng dismantling, then refit the lower spring seat rubber (where fitted), dust cover and bump rubber. 14 Ensure that the coil spring is compressed sufficiently to enable the upper mounting components to be fitted, then fit the spring over the damper rod. ensuring that the lower end of the spring is correctly located In the recess on the lower spring seat (soe illustration). 15 Refit the upper spring seat and upper mounting plate ensuring that the top end of
the spring is correctly located on the upper spring seat. Note that when the strut is reassembled, the orientation marking on the upper rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the metal section of the upper mounting plate as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting (see illustration). 10 Fit the new damper rod top nut together with its washer and bush, then tighten the nut to the specified torque, counterholding the damper rod in a manner similar to that used during dismantling. Note that a suitable crows-foot adapter will be required to tighten the damper rod top nut to the specified torque. 17 Remove the spring compressors. Where applicable, refit the protective plastic cap over the damper rod top nut.
Refitting 18 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position under the wheel arch, passing the locating stud clip through the holes in the body turret. Note that when the strut is refitted, the orientation marking on the upper mounting plate rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the vehicle as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting • refer to illustration 3.15. Fit the upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 19 Engage Ihe lower end of the strut with the
3.14 Ensure that the lower end of the spring is correctly located in the recess (arrowed) on the lower spring seat
3.15 Correct positioning of the suspension strut upper mounting components A Left hand mounting for vehicles with manual steering B Left hand mounting tor vehicles with power-assisted steering C To front of vehicle O Orientation marking 3.18 Fit the strut upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque

Suspension and steering 10*6
hub earner, then fit the securing bolts and nuts, noting that the nuts fit on the rear side of the strut, and tighten to the specified torque (see illustrations). 20 Refit the brake fluid line to the bracket on Ihe base of the strut. 21 Where applicable, press the ABS wheel sensor winng into its retaining bracket. 22 Refit the roadwheel. and lower the vehicle to the ground.
4 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 3.19a Fit the securing bolts, noting that the nuts fit on the rear side of the strut...
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant roadwheel. 2 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension lower arms on either side ot Ihe vehicle. Similarly, unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension sub-frame (see illust-rations). Allow the ends of the anti-roll bar to pivot away from the suspension lower arms. 3 With reference to Section 2, unscrew Ihe nut. withdraw the clamp bolt and lever the end of the suspension lower arm down to release it from the base of the hub carrier.
4.2s Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) securing the anti-roll bar mountings to tho suspension lower arms...
4 Unscrow the two bolts and detach the suspension arm rear mounting bracket from the subframe (see Illustration). 5 Slacken and remove the nut from the through-bolt at the lower arm front mounting (seo illustration). Withdraw the bolt. 6 Withdraw Ihe suspension lower arm from under the vehicle. 7 With the lower arm removed, examine the lower arm Itself, and the mounting bushes, for wear, cracks or damage. S Check the balljoint for wear, excessive play, or stiffness. Also check Ihe balljoint dust boot for cracks or damage. 9 The mounting bushes and balljoint assembly are integral with the lower arm. and cannot be renewed independently. If either the bushes or the balljoint are worn or damaged, the complete lower arm assembly must be renewed.
Refitting Caution: Final tightening of all fixings must be carried out with the vehicle resting on Its wheels, or damage to the rubbor bushes will result 10 Offer the suspension arm up lo Its mountings. Fit the through-bolt to the front mounting bracket and engage it with the suspension arm bush. Fit Ihe securing nut. but do not fully tighten it at this stage.
. and tho suspension sub-frame (arrowed) 4.4 Unscrew the two bolts (arrowed) and detaoh the suspension arm rear mounting bracket from the subframe
3.19b ... and tighten them to the specified torque
11 Bolt Ihe rear mounting bracket to the subframe, but do not fully tighten the bolts a! this stage, 12 Engage the lower arm balljoint svith ifia hub carrier, then refii the balljoint clamp boll and nut. Do not fully tighten the nut at this stage. 13 Raise the anti-roll bar into position. Itan bolt the mounting brackets to the subfrarra The anti-roll bar must be pre-loaded before lis outer mounting brackets can be bolted to the suspension arms. Do this by raising tha erds of the anti-roll bar with a trolley jack and holding them in this position whilst the bracket mounting bolts are inserted and hand tightened. Do not fully tighten the bolls at trts stage, line up the holes at the ends of the anti-roll bar with those on the suspension lower arm. 14 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehrcfe to the ground. 15 Make sure that the vehicle is parked on level ground, then release the handbrake. Red the vehicle backwards and forwards, arc bounce the front of the vehicle to settle the suspension components. 16 Chock the wheels, then tighten all lit* anti-roll bar and suspension arm mounting nuts and bolts to the specified torque 17 On completion the front wheel alignment should be chocked by a Fiat dealer.
4.5 Slacken and romove tho nut (arrowed! from the through-bolt at the lower arm front mounting

Suspension and steering
10*195

5 Front suspension >,•> tower arm balljoint -renewal ^
The balljoint is integral with the suspension ower arm (see Illustration). If the balljoint is worn or damaged, the complete lower arm oust be renewed as described In Section 4.
6 Front suspension ^ anti-roll bar -
removal and refitting s^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands •we Jacking and vehicle support). If required, wove the relevant roadwheels. 2 Refer to the Chapter 4D and unbolt the hnt section of the exhaust pipe. 3 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension lower arms on ether side of the vehicle. Similarly, unscrew
ine
bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings lo the suspension sub-frame (refer to the Derations in Section 4). 4 lower the anti-roll bar away from the underside of the vehicle. 5 Inspect the rubber bushes for cracks or ietertoratlon, If renewal Is necessary, slide the dd bushes from the bar, and fit the now items, using soapy water as a lubricant. Do rot apply grease or oil as this will attack the •ifiber. 9 Check the anti-roll bar for signs of damage, war or serious corrosion. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing In
mnd
the following points: sj
D'rw
up the holes af the ends of the anti-roll bar with those on the suspension iov/erarm. til
Tighten
all fixings to the specified torque, but do not do this until the vehicle is resting on its roadwheels, and the suspension has been settled, or damage to the bushes may result.
7.5 Slacken and remove the rear hub nut
5.1 Front suspension lower arm balljoint
7 Rear hub bearings -renewal
Note: 77ie bearing will be destroyed during the removal operation, and a new rear hub/ bearing assembly must be used on refitting -the old hub cannot be re-used. A new rear hub nut must be used on refitting. 1 The rear hub bearings are integral with the hubs themselves, and cannot be renewed separately, tf the bearings require renewal, the complete hub assembly must be renewed as follows. 2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support securely on axle slands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 3 Remove the brake drum as described In Chapter 9. Do not depress the brake pedal whilst the brake drum is removed. 4 Prise the dust cap from the hub. using a mallet and punch. 5 Slacken and remove the hub nut and recover the washer/spacers (see illustration). Caution: The nut Is tightened to a very high torque. Use a long extension bar to remove the nut and ensure that you have access to torque wrench capable of tightening the new nut to the speclfiod torque setting, before removing the existing nut 6 Withdraw Ihe hub and bearing assembly from the stub axle, and recover the inner washer. Discard the hub nut - a new one must be used on refitting.
1
8.3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining bolt (arrowed)
7 Thoroughly clean tho stub axle, then slide the inner washer and new hub assembly into position. 8 Fit the outer washer, then thread a new hub nut onto the end of the stub axle by hand - do not fully tighten the nut at this stage. 9 Refit the brake drum (Chapter 9). 10 Tighten the hub nut to the specified torque, then check that the hub spins smoothly and freely. Carefully tap the dust cap into position over the nut. 11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the road-wheel bolts to the specified torque.
8 Rear suspension components -removal, overhaul and refitting ^
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant rear roadwheel.
Damper
Removal 2 Using a trolley jack positioned under the trailing arm, raise the trailing arm to take the strain from the damper. 3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining boll (see Illustration). 4 Lower the jack and allow the damper to separate from the trailing arm. Take care to avoid displacing the coil spring. 5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (see illustration). 6 Lower the damper away from the suspension subframe. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the damper upper and lower retaining bolts to the specified torque, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the road-wheels • this prevents the damper bushes from being strained.
Coil spring
Removal 8 With reference to the previous sub-Section.
8.5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (arrowed)