Front control FIAT PUNTO 1998 176 / 1.G Owner's Manual

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
2.8 Undo tho two bolts securing the resonator to the camshaft cover
8 Undo the two bolts securing the resonator to the camshaft cover (see illustration) 9 Release ihe wiring loom support clip from the slot on the side of the resonator lower extension, then lift the resonator off the camshaft cover (see illustrations). Disconnect Ihe crankcase breather hose from the underside of tho resonator and remove the resonator from the engine. 10 Undo the nuts secunng the sides of the air cleaner to the mounting brackets at the front of the engino. 11 Release the hose clip and disconnect the inlet air duct from the throttle body. 12 Release the crankcase ventifation hose from the pipe stub on the camshaft cover then remove the air cleaner and inlet air duct assembly from the engine (see illustration).
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal but renew the air cleaner element as described In Chapter
1 A,
if necessary.
Inlet air temperature regulator -liWfii' I
2.9o Release the wiring support clip (arrowed) from the slot on the resonator lower extension ...
the shroud on the exhaust manifold. Next, warm up tho engine and check that the flap moves to admit only cold air from the Inlet duct. If the unit is faulty it must be renewed. 2 Remove the air cleaner element as described in Chapter
1
A. 3 Unscrew tha retaining screw and remove tho regulator from the air cleaner outer section.
Refitting 4 Rofitting is a reversal of removal.
I
Removal 1 The thermostatically-controlled cold air flop opener, fitted to 8-valve engines, is located in the air cleaner outer cos>ng section. To check lha unit, disconnect the atr inlet duct with the engine cold and use a mirror to check that the flap Is positioned to admit only not air from
2.12 Removing the air cleaner and Inlet air duct assembly
4 Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment
1242 cc (8-valve) engines
Removal 1 Remove Ihe air cleaner as described In Section 2. 2 To release the cable from the throttle body, unscrew the outer cable locknuls, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam, and release the outer cable from its mounting bracket, 3 Wording under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from tho fork at the top of the pedal arm. 4 Release the bulkhead grommel and withdraw tho accelerator cable from inside Ihe engine compartment. Refitting and adjustment 5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but ad|ust the cable (by means of the outer cable locknuts} so that there Is only a very small amount of free play present at the throttle body end of the inner cablo. Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that the throttlo cam opens fully and returns to the at-rest position, then securely tighten the cable locknuts.
1242 cc (16-valve) engines
Removal 6 Dlsconnoel the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 7 Remove the resonator, air cleaner and Inlet air duct as described in Section 2.
camshaft cover
8 Undo the engine management ECU mounting bracket bolts, release the ECU wiring loom from Ihe support clips and move tho ECU and wiring loom to one side for access to the accelerator cable. 9 Free the accelerator inner cable from the throttle cam, remove the outer cable spring clip, then pull the outer cable out from its mounting bracket rubber grommet (see illustration). 10 Trace the cable back to its entry point in the engine compartment bulkhead and undo the bulkhead support bracket mounting bolt. 11 Working back along the length of the cable, free It from any retaining clips or ties, noting its correct routing. 12 Working under the instrument panel Inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 13 Release the bulkhead support bracket and withdraw the accelerator cable from inside the engino compartment. Refitting end adjustment
14 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but adjust the cable as follows before refitting the outer cable spring clip. 16 Ensuring that the throttle cam is fully against its stop, gently pull the cable out of its grommet until all free play Is removed from the inner cable. 16 With the cable held in this position, lit the spring clip to tho first outer cable groove visible in front of the mounting brackot rubber grommet. This should leave a small amount of freeplay in tho inner cable which is necessary to ensure correct throttle operation.
4.9 Accelerator outer cable spring clip (arrowed)

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
17 Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that the throttle cam opens luily and returns smoothly to its stop. If necessary, reposition the spring clip In the next outer cable groove and recheck the throttle operation. 18 Refit the remainder of the disturbed components.
5 Engine management
system
^ components
(1242
cc, 8-vatve § engines) -
removal and refitting
^
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section T
before
proceeding.
Throttle body assembly
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and inlet air duct as described in Section 2. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the throttle potentiometer, the idle control stepper motor and the inlet air temperature sensor. 3 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam and free the outer cable from its retaining bracket. Position the cable clear of the throttle body. 4 Unclip and disconnect the EVAP purge valve hose, and Ihe MAP sensor hose from the rear of the throttle body then, where applicable, disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose from the front of the throttle body. 5 Slacken and remove the four bolts securing the throttle body assembly to the inlet manifold, then remove the assembly along with its insulating spacer. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure. bearing in mind the following points: 4! Examine the Insulating spacer for signs of damage, and renew If necessary. b) Ensure the throttle body, inlet manifold and insulating spacer mating surfaces are clean and dry, then fit the throttle body and spacer, and securely tighten the retaining bolts. c) Ensure ail hoses are correctly reconnected and, where necessary, /her their retaining clips are securely tightened. d) Adjust the accelerator cable as described in Section 4.

Fuel
rail and injectors
Removal 7 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting tho battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Remove the throttle body assembly as described earlier in this Section, however it is only necessary to move the unit to one side for access to the fuel rail and therefore it Is unnecessary to disconnect the accelerator caWe and hoses etc.
9 Depressurise Ihe fuel system as described in Section 9. 10 Loosen the clips or release the quick-release couplings and disconnect the fuel inlet and, on pre-1998 models, outlet hoses from the fuel rail. Note the fitted positions of the hoses to aid refitting later. 11 Unplug the ln}ector wiring harness connectors, labelling them to aid correct refitting later. 12 Unscrew the bolts securing the fuel rail assembly to the Inlet manifold, then carefully pull the Injectors from the Inlet manifold. Remove the assembly from the engine and remove the injector lower O-ring seals. 13 The injectors can be removed Individually from the fuel rail by extracting the relevant metal clip and easing Ihe injector out of the rail. Remove the injector upper O-ring seals (see illustration).
14 On pre-1998 models, if necessary remove the retaining clip and remove the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail. 15 Check the electrical resistance of the injector using a multimeter and compare It with the Specifications. Note: If a faulty Injector is suspected, before condemning the injector, It is worth trying the effect of one of the proprietary injector-cleaning treatments. Refitting 16 Refit the injectors and fuel rail by following the removal procedure, in reverse, noting the following points: a) Renew the injector O-rlng seals, and smear them with a little Vaseline before assembling. Take care when fitting the injectors to the fuel rail and do not press them in further than required to fit the retaining clip otherwise the O-ring seal may be damaged.
1 Fuel rail 2 Fuel pressure regulator 3 Injectors
5.13 Fuel rail and Injector removal 4 Vacuum stub connect/on 5 Fuel inlet hose 6 Fuel return hose
7 Mounting bolts 8 Injector mounting dip 9 Injector mounting dip

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
2.7a Unscrew the bolt... 2.7b ... and remove the Inlet air duct assembly
2.9b ... remove the air cleaner body...
Non-turbo models 2 Disconnect the intermediate air duct from
the
sir cleaner cover and the resonance box. 3 Disconnect the inlet duct from the resonance box and unbolt It from the front of
the
engine compartment. 4 Unscrew tho mounting nuts and remove the resonance box. Note the location of the special spacers. 6 If necessary unbolt and remove the support Brackets for the resonance box. Turbo models 6 Disconnect the intermediate air duct from the air cleaner cover and front Inlet air duct assembly. 7 Unbolt and remove the inlet oir duct tssembty (see illustrations). 6 Disconnect the air ducts from between the
air
cleaner and turbocharger. and between the turbocharger and Inlet manifold.
2.9c ... and spacers
9 Unscrew the mounting nuts and remove the air cleaner body. Note the location of the special spacers (see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure.
3 Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment
Removal 1 Remove the air inlet ducting as described in Section 2. 2 Working In Ihe engine compartment, remove the cylindrical spring clip, and release the Inner cable from the lever (see illustration).
2.9a Unscrew the mounting nuts...
3 Pull the outer cable from the grommet in the fuel injection pump bracket (see illustration). 4 Release the cable from the remaining clips and brackets in the engine compartment, noting Its routing. 5 Working under the Instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 6 Release the bulkhead grommet and withdraw the accelerator cable from inside the engine compartment.
Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the cable is routed as noted before removal, and on completion, adjust the cable as follows.
Adjustment 8 Remove the spring clip from the accel-erator outer cable (see illustration). Ensuring that the control lever Is against its stop, gently pull the cable out of Its grommet until all Iree play is removed from the inner cable. 9 With the cable held In this position, refit the spring clip to the last exposed outer cable groove in front of the rubber grommet and washer. When the clip is refitted and the outer cable is released, there should be only a small amount of free play in the inner cable. 10 Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal, and check that the control lever opens lulty and returns smoothly to its stop.
4C
32 Remove the spring clip and release the inner cable 3.3 Removing the outer cable 3.8 Removing the spring clip Irom the accelerator outer cable

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
8.5 Dial gauge (1), mounting bracket (2) and setting rod (3) In position on the injection pump (Lucas)
so that Its tip Is In contact with the bracket linkage (see Illustration). Position the dial gauge so that its plunger is at the mid-point of its travel and zero the gauge. 6 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction of rotation (clockwise) until the crankshaft is positioned at TDC on No 1 piston with ell the sprocket timing marks aligned. 7 Check the reading on the dial gauge which should correspond to the value marked on the pump (there is a tolerance of * 0.04 mm). The timing value may be marked on a plastic disc attached to the front of the pump, or alternatively on a tag attached to Ihe pump control lever (see illustrations). 8 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the front pump mounting nuts/bolt and the raar mounting bolt, then slowly rotate tne pump body until the point is found where the specified reading is obtained on the dial gauge (access to the lower front bolt is gained through the hole in the injection pump sprocket). When the pump Is correctly positioned, tighten both its front mounting nuta/bolt and the rear bolt to their specified torque settings. 9 Withdraw the timing probe slightly, so that it
positioned clear of the pump rotor dowel. Rotato the crankshaft ihrough one and three quarter rotations in the normal direction of rotation. 10 Slide the timing probe back Into position ensuring that it Is correctly seated against the guide sealing washer surface, not (he upper Hp, then zero the dial gauge. 11 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction ol rotation to the TDC position and recheck the timing measurement 12 If adjustment Is necessary, slacken the pump mounting nuts and bolt and repeat the operations in paragraphs 6 to 11. 13 When the pump timing is correctly set. remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket and withdraw the timing probe. 14 Refit the screw and sealing washer to the guide and tighten it securely.
8.7a Pump timing value (x) marked on plastic diso (Lucas)
15 If the procedure is being carried out as part of the pump refilling sequence, proceed as described in Section 5. 16 If the procedure is being carried out with the pump fitted to the engine, refit the injector pipes tightening their union nuts to the specified torque setting. Reconnect the battery and refit the air inlet ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen tho injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air. 18 Check and If necessary adjust the Idle speed as described In Chapter 1B.
9 Fuel Injectors -testing, removal and refitting Sk ^

A


Warning: Exercise extreme caution when working on the fuel injectors. Never expose the hands or any part of the body to Injector spray, as the high working pressure can cause the fuel to pen ot rate the skin, with possibly fatal results. You are strongly advised to have any work which involves testing the injectors under pressure carried out by a dealer or fuel Injection specie list.
Testing 1 Injectors do deteriorate with prolonged uso, and it is reasonable to expect them to need reconditioning or renewal after 60 000 miles
8.7b Pump timing values marked on label (1) and tag (2) (Lucas)
(100 000 km) or so. Accurate testing, overhaul and calibration of the Injectors must be left to a specialist. A defective injector which Is causing knocking or smoking can be located without dismantling as follows. 2 Run the engine at a fast idle. Slacken each Injector union In turn, placing rag around the union to catch spilt fuel, and being careful not to exposa the skin to any spray. When tho union on the defective Injector is slackened, the knocking or smoking will stop.
Removal 3 Remove ihe air Inlet ducting from tho front part of the onglne. 4 Carefully clean around the Injectors and injector pipe union nuts. 5 Pull the leak-off pipes from the injectors (see illustration). 6 Unscrow the union nuts securing Ihe injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump. Counterhold the unions on the pump when unscrewing the nuts. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out, using small plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 7 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the pipes from the ln|ectors, If necessary, the Injector pipes may be completely removed-Note carefully the locations of the pipe clamps, for use when refitting. Cover tho onds ot (he injectors, to prevent dirt ingress. 8 Unscrew the injectors using a deep socket or box spanner, and remove Ihem from the cylinder head (see Illustration). 9 Recover the tire seal washers from the cy-linder head and discard them (see illustration).
9.5 Disconnecting the Injector leak-off pipes 9.8 Removing an injector

4D*2 Exhaust and emission control systems
2.2 Charcoal canister location behind tho right-hand headlight
conditions, via a plunger valve, The system is controlled electronically by means of an emissions system control unit. Evaporative emission control • petrol models To minimise the escape of unburned hydrocarbons Into the atmosphere, an evaporallve loss emission control system is fitted to petrol models, The fuel tank filler cap Is sealed and a charcoal canister is mounted underneath the right-hand headlamp to collect the petrol vapours released from the fuel contained In the fuel tank. It stores them until they can be drawn from the canister (under the control of the fuel Injection/ignition system ECU) via the purge valve into the Inlet tract, where they are then burned by the engine during normal combustion. To ensure thai the engine runs correctly when it is cold and/or idling and to protect the catalytic converter from the effects of an over-rich mixture, the purge control valve is not opened by the ECU until the engine has warmed up, and the engine is under load; the valve solenoid is then modulated on and off to allow the stored vapour to pass into the inlet tract.
Exhaust systems The exhaust system comprises the exhaust manifold, an exhaust downpipe, • catalytic convorter, an intermediate pipe with silencer, and a tailpipe with silencer, On turbo diesel models the turbocharger is fitted between ihe exhaust manifold and the downpipe.
5.5a On 16-valve engines, undo the bolts and remove the manifold heat shield...
2 Evaporative loss emission ^ control system - information and component renewal ^
Information 1 The evaporative loss omission control system consists of the control solenoid (or purge valve), the activated charcoal filter canister and a series of connecting vacuum hoses. 2 The control solenoid and charcoal canister are both mounted on the right-hand side of the engine compartment behind the headlight (see illustration).
Component renewal
Control solenoid 3 With the bonnet open, disconnect the hoses from the control solenoid on the top of the charcoal canister. 4 Disconnect the wiring and remove the solenoid. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Charcoal canister 6 Remove Ihe control solenoid as desenbed previously. 7 Disconnect Ihe fuel tonk hose from the canister 8 Detach the mounting and remove the canister. 9 Refitting Is a reversal of removal. Multifunction valve 10 The multifunction valve >s mounted on top of the luel tank. Removal and refitting is similar to that described for the tank sender gauge/pump (refer to Chapter 4A or 4B).
3 Crankcase emission system - general information
The crankcase emission control system consists of a hose from the camshaft cover to the air cloanor with a branch to Ihe throttle body. The main hose Incorporates a flame trap and the Inlet to the throttle body incorporates a calibrated hole.
5.5b ... then remove the bracket
The system requires no attention other than to check at regular intervals that tho hoses are free of blockages and undamaged.
4 Lambda oxygen sensor -removal and refitting &
Note: 7?5e Lambda oxygen sensor is doiicata and will not work if it is dropped or knocked, it its power supply is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are used on it.
Removal 1 The sensor Is threaded Into the exhaust front downpipe. Access if best gained Irom underneath the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then )ack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector located on the front of the engine. 3 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the sensor, taking care to avoid damaging the sensor probe as it Is removed- Note: As a flying lead remains connected to the sensor after it has been disconnected, if the correct spanner is not available, a slotted socket
will
be required to remove the sensor.
Refitting A Apply a little anti-selze grease to (he sensor threads • avoid contaminating the probe tip. 5 Refit the sensor to the downpipe. tightening it to the correct torque. Reconnect the wiring. 6 Lower the vohicle to the ground.
5 Exhaust manifold - % removal and refitting jk
Petrol models
Removal 1 On 1242 cc (16-valve) engines, remove tho air cleaner and inlet system components as described in Chapter 48. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 3 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring or alternatively romovo Ihe sensor completely. 4 Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the exhaust downpipo from Ihe exhaust manifold flange. Recover the gasket. 5 On 1242 cc (16-valve) engines, undo the bolts and remove the manifold heat shield, then remove the bracket at the timing belt end of the manifold (seo Illustrations). 6 Unscrew the mounting nuts, remove the washers, and recover any additional brackets fitted over the studs, noting their locations. Withdraw the manifold from the studs on the cylinder head. 7 Recover the gaskets from Ihe studs.

4D*3 Exhaust and emission control systems
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure but fit new gaskets. Tighten the nuts lo the specified torque.
Diesel models Note: On diesel models the inlet and exhaust
manifolds
are located on the rear of the engine
end
share the same securing nuts and gasket. Removal 8 Remove the inlet manifold as described In Part
C
of this Chapter. 10 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up lite front of tho car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 11 Straighten the tab washers (where fitted), then unscrew and remove the exhaust downpipe retaining nuts. Detach the downpipe from the manifold/turbocharger. Suitably support the downpipe. 12 Undo the manifold-to-cylinder head securing nuts and withdraw the manifold (see Illustration). 13 Separate the turbocharger from the manifold with reference to Chapter 4C. 14 Remove the gasket and clean the mating
(aces
of the manifold, cylinder head and down-pipe flange (see illustration). The gasket must
be
renewed when refitting the manifold, Refitting
15 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure but fit a new gasket. Tighten the retaining nuts to the specified torque and where necessary lock them by bending over
the
tocktabs.
6 Exhaust system - % general information and ^ component renewal
Genera/ Information 1 A three section exhaust system is fitted consisting of a twin-branch front downpipe, a catalytic converter, and a tailpipe with two silencers. The downpipe-to-manifold and downpipe-to-catalytic converter joints are both of flange and gasket type, whereas the remaining joint Is of the sleeve type secured
witn
a clamp ring (see illustration). 2 The system is suspended throughout its entire length by rubber mountings.
Removal 3 Each exhaust section can be removed individually or, alternatively, the complete system can be removed as a unit. Where separation of the rear sleeve Joint is necessary, it may be more practical to remove
the
entire system rather than try and separate
the Joint
In position. 4 To remove the system or part of the system, first jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and nhlcle support), Alternatively position the
vehicle
over an inspection pit or on car ramps.
5.12 Removing the exhaust manifold (diesel engine) Downpipe 5 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. Where applicable on petrol models, refer to Section 4 and remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe. 6 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to tha catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 7 Bend back the locktabs (where fitted) then unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold/turbocharger. and lower the downpipe, Recover the gasket. Catalytic converter
8 Support the tailpipe section of the exhaust using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 9 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to the catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 10 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the converter from the tailpipe section. 11 Release the mounting rubber and remove the converter from under the vehicle. Tailpipe and silencers 12 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 13 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the catalytic converter from the tailpipe section. 14 Release the tailpipe section from its mounting rubbers and remove from under the vehicle. Complete system 15 Disconnect the downpipe from the ex-haust manifold as described in paragraph 7.
6.1 Exhaust clamp ring securing the tailpipe to the front exhaust system
5.14 Removing the oxhaust manifold gasket (diesel engine) 16 With the aid of an assistant, free the system from all its mounting rubbers and manoeuvre it out from underneath the vehicle. Heatshield 17 The heatshield is secured to the underbody by bolts and Is easily removed once the exhaust system has been removed.
Refitting 18 Each section is refitted by a reverse of the removal sequence, noting the following points. a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion have been removed from the flanges and renew ail necessary gaskets. b) Inspect the rubber mountings for signs of damage or deterioru tion and renew
as
necessary. c) Before refitting the tailpipe joint, smear some exhaust system jointing paste to the joint mating surfaces to ensure an air-tight seal. Tighten the clamp bolt. d) Prior to fully tightening the rear joint damp, ensure that all rubber mountings are correctly /ocafed and that there is adequate clearance between the exhaust system and vehicle underbody.
7 Catalytic converter -general information and precautions
The catalytic converter is a reliable and simple device which needs no maintenance In itself, but there are some facts of which an owner should be aware if the converter is to function properly for its full service life.
Petrol models a) DO NOT use leaded petrot In a car equipped with a catalytic converter - Ihe lead will coat the precious metals, redudng their converting efficiency
and
will eventually destroy the converter. b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems well-maintained in accordance with the manufacturer's schedule. c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the car at all (or at least as little
as
possible) until the fault is cured.

5C«2 Preheating system - diesel models
2.3 No 4 glow plug showing the main supply lead end the interconnecting strap 2.5 Removing a glow plug
2 Glow plugs -removal, Inspection and refitting
Removal Caution: If the preheating system has just been energised, or If tho engine has been running, the glow plugs will be very hot
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Remove Ihe air Inlet ducting from the front of the engine with reference to Chapter 4C, Section 2. 3 Unscrew the nut from the relevant glow plug lerminai(s). and recover the washer(s). Note that tho main supply cable is connected to Number 4 cylinder glow plug and an interconnecting strap lis fitted between the four plugs (see Illustration). 4 Where applicable, carefully move any obstructing pipes or wires lo one side to enable access to the relevant glow plug(s). 5 Unscrew the glow plug(s) and remove from the cylinder head (see illustration).
Inspection 8 Inspect each glow plug for physical damage. Burnt or eroded glow plug tips can bo caused by a bad Injector spray pattern. Have the Injectors checked if this sort of damage is found. 7 If Ihe glow plugs are In good physical condition, check them electrically using a 12 volt test lamp or continuity tester as described in the previous Section. 8 The glow plugs can be energised by applying 12 volts to them to verity that they heat up evenly and In the required time. Observe the following precautions. a) Support the glow plug by clamping it carefully in a vice or selNocking pliers. Remember it will become red-hot. b) Make sura that the power supply or test lead incorporates a fuse or overload trip to protect against damage from a short-circuit. c) After testing, allow the glow plug to cool for several minutes before attempting to handle it. 9 A glow plug In good condition will start to glow red at the tip after drawing current for 5 seconds or so. Any plug which takes much longer to start glowing, or which starts
glowing in the middle instead of at the lip, « defective. Refitting 10 Refit by reversing the removal operations. Apply a smear of copper-based anti-seize compound to the plug threads and tighten Ihe glow plugs to Ihe specified torque. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the glow plug element.
3 Preheating system control unit -removal
and
refitting I
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the baffery In Ihe Reference Section of this manual). 2 Unscrew the screws and remove the relay cover located at the left-hand end of the engine. 3 Disconnect the wiring then remove the control unit from the bracket. Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

7A*2 Manual transmission
Gear selection is via a floor-mounted lever and selector rod mechanism (seo Illustration). The selector rod causes the appropriate selector fork to move its respective synchro-sleeve along the shaft, to lock the gear to the synchro-hub. Since the synchro-hubs are splined to the Input and output shafts, this locks the gear to the shaft, so that drive can be transmitted. To ensure that gear-changing can be made quickly and quietly, a synchro-mesh system Is fitted to all forward gears,
2 Gearchange lever and linkage -
removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands {see Jacking and veh/cte support). 2 Remove the exhaust system with reference to Chapter 4D.
3 Unbolt the exhaust heatshield and remove It from under the vehicle. 4 Disconnect the gearchange cable and rod from the transmission and from the body. Also disconnect the reverse inhibitor cable. 5 Unscrew the single screw and remove the centre console from inside the vehicle. 6 Unscrew the front mounting securing the gearchange lower cover to the body. 7 Under Ihe vehicle unscrew the lower cover mounting bolts, then lower Ihe assembly and remove from under the vehlole. 8 The gearchange lever may be removed by disconnecting the cables and removing the pivot bolt. Note the location of the spacers and washers to ensure correct reassembly. If necessary the bushes may be renewed by unscrewing the mounting nuts. 9 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but apply a little multi-purpose grease to the bearing surfaces.
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.
3 Manual transmission - & removal and refitting § S
Petrol models
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surlace to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from (he anti-theft alarm located next to the battery, then unbolt and remove the alarm. 3 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 6 On models with a cable operated clutch,
1.4 Gearchange lever and linkage 1 Gear lever sliding part 3 Gear selector control rod 5 Gear selector link rod 2 Reverse gear inhibition 4 Gear engagement control 6 Gear selector control rod cable cable 7 Reverse gear inhibition device

Manual transmission 7A*3
3,8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting bolts, release the slave cylinder pushrod from the re&ase arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side.
7 Unscrew and remove the reverse gear Inhibiting device from the transmission. Tie the cable to one side out of the way. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission (see illustration). 9 Pull out the clip then disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever and release the cable from the mounting bracket (see illustrations). 10 Unscrew and remove the two upper transmisslon-to-englne mounting bolts. Unscrew the single bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 11 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. This Is necessary In order to fit the engine hoist 12 On 5-speed transmissions, trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 13 On 6-speed transmissions, unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing. 14 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley jack and block of wood beneath Ihe engine. 15 Unscrew the Lambda/oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position It In a safe place to prevent damage. 16 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower It and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 17 Unbolt the support bracket from the engine and transmission. Recover the spacer plate. 18 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover, 19 Unscrew the remaining starter motor mounting bolts and support tho starter motor to one side. 20 Loosen and remove the clips securing the left- and right-hand driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts.
3.9a Remove the clip to release the gear engagement cable 21 Unscrew and remove the boils securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 22 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and disconnect the inner end of the dnveshaft from the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the garters. 23 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the botts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to Ihe body then unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 25 Support the woight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the belihousing and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle. A Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that it remains steady on the jack head. Keep the transmission levet until the Input shaft Is fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate. Refitting
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the clutch friction plate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
3.12 Electronic speedometer sensor fitted to 5-speed transmissions
3.9b Removing the gear engagement cable from the mounting bracket b) Tighten all bolts to Ihe specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
Diesel models
Removal 27 Seloct a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of tho vehicle and support on axlo stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 28 Unbolt the relay support then remove the batlery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 29 On models with a cable operated clutch, unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting botts. release the slave cylinder pushrod from the release arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side, 30 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 31 Disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever then slide out the clip and release the cable from the mounting bracket. 32 Unbolt the electronic rev counter sensor from the upper rear of the belihousing and position it to one side (see illustration).
3.32 Electronic rev counter sensor located in the upper rear of the belihousing

7A«4 Manual transmission
33 Remove lha air cleaner front section and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4C. Also disconnect the injection pump vacuum pipe from the clips on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. This work is necessary in order to fit the engine hoist 34 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley Jack and block of wood beneath the engine. 35 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower it and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 36 Unscrew the starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. 37 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 39 Trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side ot the engine. If a mechanical speedometer Is fitted unscrew the knurled collar and disconnect the cabte from the transmission. 40 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover. 41 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft to the transmission flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 42 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 43 Move the swrvel hub assembly outwards and support the driveshaft away from Ihe transmission. 44 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the Inner end of the right-hand driveshaft to the intermediate shaft flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 45 Remove the intermediate driveshaft with reference to Chapter 8. 46 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle.
47 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body then unscrew Ihe bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 48 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolts from the bellhousing and pull the transmission away from the engine.

A


Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that It remains steady o/i the jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft
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fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate.
Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Appiy a smear* of high-meiting-point grease to the clutch friction piate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. b) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
4 Manual transmission overhaul -general Infomtatlon
Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult and Involved Job for the DIY home mechanic. In addition to dismantling and reassembling many small parts, clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed by selecting shims and spacers. Internal transmission components are also often difficult to obtain, and in many Instances, extremely expensive. Because of this, If the transmission develops a fault or becomes noisy. Ihe best course of action is to have the unit overhauled by a specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange reconditioned unit. Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the more experienced mechanic to overhaul the transmission, provided the special tools are available, and the Job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner, so that nothing is overlooked.
The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external clrclip pliers, bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a sat of pin punches, a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench 8od a vice will be required. During dismantling o1 the transmission, make careful notes of how each component
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fitted, to make reassembly easier and more accurate. Before dismantling the transmission, it will help if you have some idea what area is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely related to specific areas In the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Fault Finding Section at the end of this manual for more Information.
5 Reversing light switch -testing, removal and refitting ||
Testing 1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a plunger-type switch screwed into the front of the transmission casing. If a fault develops, first ensure that Ihe circuit fuse has not blown. 2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring connector, and use a multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test circuit to check that there is continuity between the switch terminals only when reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, and there are no obvious breaks or other damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
Removal 3 Access to the reversing light switch Is best achieved from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then unscrew It from the transmission casing.
Refitting 5 Refit the switch and tighten securely. 6 Reconnect the wiring then lower the vehicle to the ground.