MAIN BEARING FIAT PUNTO 1998 176 / 1.G Owner's Guide

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
Refitting 37 Refitting Is a reversal of removal making sure that the wiring connector is securely reconnected.
Inertia safety switch 36 Refer to Chapter 4A, Fuel injection system relays Removal 39 The fuel injection system twin relay Is located under a plastic cover on the engine compartment bulkhead. 40 The main purpose of the relay Is to supply current to the fuel pump, ignition coils, oxygen sensor, Injectors and EVAP solenoid. The relay is controlled by the ignition switch. A15 amp fuse, protecting ihe fuel pump, oxygen sensor and EVAP solenoid is located adjacent to the relay. 41 Remove the cover and pull the relay directfy from Its socket. Refitting 42 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
7 Fuel pump and fuel gauge sender unit - JK removal
and
refitting ^
Removal Note: Refer fo (he warning given in Section 1 before proceeding. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Depreasurise the fuel system as described in Section 9. 3 Remove the rear soat as described In Chapter 11. Prise the fuel pump access cover out of the floor panel to gain access to the pump unit. On later models, undo the three retaining screws to release the cover. 4 Disconnect the wiring connector. 5 Bearing In mind the warning given In Section t, disconnect Ihe fuel supply and, where applicable, the return lines from tho pump unit by pressing the tabs. Plug the ends of the lines or cover them with adhesive tape. 6 Using a suitable tool, unscrew the large ring nut and carefully withdraw the fuel pump/fuel tank sender unit assembly from the fuel tank, along with its sealing rtng. 7 If necessary, the unit can be dismantled and the pump and sender unit separated. If this is (he case, carefully note the correct fitted positions of all components while dismantling the unit, and use these notes on reassembly to ensure that all items are correctly fitted.
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure using a new sealing ring. Prior to refitting the access cover, reconnect the battery, then start the engine and check the fuel line unlon(s) (or signs of i

Fuel
tank -removal and refitting
Refer to Chapter 4A.
9 Fuel injection system -depressurisatton
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section 1 before proceeding.

A


Warning: The following procedure will merely relieve the pressure In the fuel system • remember that fuel will still be present In the system components and take precautions accord-ingly before disconnecting any of them. 1 The fuel system referred to in this Section is defined as the lank-mounted fuel pump, tha fuel filter, the fuel rail, the fuel injectors, and the metal pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel lines between these components. All these contain fuel which will be under pressure while the engine Is running and/or while the Ignition is switched on. The pressure will remain for some time after the Ignition has been switched off. and must be relieved before any of these components are disturbed for servicing work. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Have a large rag ready to cover the union to be disconnected and, if possible, place a con-tainer beneath the relevant connection/union. 4 Slowly loosen the connection or union nut (as applicable) to avoid a sudden release of pressure, and ensure that the rag is wrapped around the connection to catch any fuef spray which may be expelled. Once the pressure is released, disconnect the fuel line, and Insert plugs to minimise fuel loss and prevent the entry of dirt Into the fuel system. Note that on later models, quick-release fuel couplings are used on many of the fuel line connections. To release these couplings, depress the two clips on the side of the coupling while keeping the fuel line pushed In. With the clips depressed, slowly withdraw the fuel line from the coupling allowing the fuel pressure to release, then withdraw the fuel line fully.
10 Inlet manifold-removal
and
refitting
Note: Refer fo the warning given in Section 1 before proceeding.
1242 cc (8-valve) engines
Removal 1 Remove ihe throttle body assembly as described in Section 5.
2 Remove the fuel rail and injectors at described in Section 5. 3 Drain the cooling system ss described n Chapter 1A. 4 Disconnect the wiring connector from ih* coolant temperature sensor (situated on it* left-hand side of the manifold). 5 Undo the bolt securing the accelerator cable mounting bracket to the manifold, am position it clear of the manifold. 6 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect the coolant hose from the rear of the mandold 7 Disconnect the brake vacuum hose, 6 Undo the seven manifold retaining nuisw bolts, and remove the manifold from tta engine. Remove the gasket and discard tti new one should be used on refitting. Refitting
9 Refitting is a reverse of the removjf procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder lim mating surfaces are dean and
dry.
and fill new manifold gasket. Refit the
manifold
and securely tighten Its retaining
nuts.
b) Ensure all relevant hoses are recorwscfed fo their original positions and are
sacurtfy
held (Where necessary; by the
retaining
clips. c) Refit the fuel rail and injectors, and
the
throttle body assembly with
reference to
Sect/on 5. d) On completion, refill the cooling
system
as described in Chapter 1A. 1242 cc (16-valve) engines
Removal 10 Disconnect the battery negative ternnncf (refer to Disconnecting the battery in ths Reference Section of this manual). 11 Remove the resonator, air cleaner and inlet air duct as described In Section 2. 12 Drain the cooling system as described r, Chapter 1A. 13 Free the accelerator inner cable from IN throttle cam. remove the outer cable spring dip. then pull the outer cable out from itt mounting bracket rubber grommet. 14 From the side of the throttle boOf, disconnect the wiring connectors from the throttle potentiometer and the Idle contrd stepper motor. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wiring connector located in the Inlet manilold below the throttie bodr, and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 15 Disconnect Ihe wiring connectors for the fuel in|ector harness and the Intake a* temperature/pressure sensor, thtn disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and the EVAP purge valve
hose
(see illustration). 16 Undo Ihe two bolts securing the plastic Inlet manifold upper section to the lower section. Release the spark plug HT lead from the location groove in the manifold upper section, then lift Ihe upper section, complete with throttle body, off the engine. Recover
the
O-rings from the manifold pons.

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
14.6 Nuts securing the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold 14.8 Disconnecting the oil return pipe from tho turbocharger
13 Turbocharger -description and precautions
Description A turbocharger 1$ fitted to TDS, TD and SX models. It increases engine efficiency by raising the pressure In the inlet manifold above atmospheric pressure. Instead of the air simply being sucked Into the cylinders. It Is forced in. Additional fuel is supplied by the injection pump in proportion to the increased air inlet. Energy for the operation of the turbocharger comes from the exhaust gas. The gas flows through a specially-shaped housing (the turbine housing) and In so doing, spins the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is attached lo a shaft, at the end of which is another vaned wheel known as the compressor wheel, The compressor wheel spins in Its own housing, snd compresses the inlet air on the way to the inlet manifold. Boost pressure (the pressure in the Inlet manifold) is limited by a wastegate, which diverts Ihe exhaust gas away from the turbine wheel In response to a pressure-sensitive actuator. A pressure-operaled switch operates a warning light on the instrument panel in the event of excessive boost pressure developing. The turbo shaft is pressure-lubricated by an oil feed pipe from the main oil gallery The shaft floats on a cushion of oil. A drain pipo returns the oil to the sump.
Precautions The turbocharger operates at extremely high speeds and temperatures. Certain precautions must be observed, to avoid premature failure of the turbo, or injury to the operator. Do not operate the turbo with any of its parts exposed, or with any of ils hoses removed. Foreign objects falling onto the rotating vanes could cause excessive
damage, and (if ejected) personal injury. Do not race the engine immediately after start-up, especially if it Is cold. Give the oil a few seconds lo circulate. Always allow the engine to return to idle speed before switching il off - do not blip the throttle and switch off, as this will leave the turbo spinning without lubrication. Allow the engine to idle lor several minutes before switching off after a high-speed run. Observe the recommended intervals for oil and filter changing, and use a reputable oil of the specified quality. Neglect of oil changing, or use of Inferior oil, can cause carbon formation on the turbo shaft, leading to subsequent failure.
14 Turbocharger -removal and refitting
8 Disconnect the oil return pipe from the turbocharger (see Illustration). 9 Unscrew the bolt securing the mounting bracket to the cyfindar block. 10 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw the turbocharger from the studs in Ihe exhaust manifold. Recover the gasket. II It Is to be refitted, store the turbocharger carefully, and plug its openings to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting 11 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the fallowing points: a) if a new turbocharger Is being fitted, change the engine oil and filter. b) Tighten ail nuts and bolts to the specified torque. c) Before starting the engine, prime the turbo lubrication circuit by disconnecting the stop solenoid iead at the injection pump, and cranking the engine on the starter for three ten-second bursts.
Removal 1 Remove the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 2 Unbolt and remove the relay guard and bracket from the left-hand side of Ihe engine. 3 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Section 2. 4 Loosen the clips and remove the air outlet duct between tho turbocharger and inlet manifold. Also disconnect the air inlet duct from the turbocharger. 6 Appty the handbrake, then jack up tho front of the vohicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 6 Bend back the locking tabs (if fitted) and unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust downpipe lo the exhaust manifold (see Illustration). Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust system (refer to Part 4D) end remove it from under the vehicle. Recover tne gasket. 7 Unscrew ihe union nut and disconnect the oil supply pipe from the turbocharger. Recover the copper ring and tape over the end of the pipe 10 prevent dust entry.
15 Turbocharger -examination and renovation l
1 With the turbocharger removed, inspect the housing for cracks or other visible damage. 2 Spin the turbine or the compressor wheel, to verify that the shaft is intact and to feel for excessive shake or roughness. Some play is normal, since in use, the shaft is floating on a film of oil. Check that the wheel vanes are undamaged. 3 The wastegate and actuator are Integral, and cannot be checked or renewed separately. Consul! a Flat dealer or other specialist If it is thought that testing or renewal is necessary. 4 If tho exhaust or induction passages are ail* contaminated, Ihe turbo shaft oil seals have probably failed. 6 No DIY repair of the turbo is possible. A new unit may be available on an exchange basis,

7A«4 Manual transmission
33 Remove lha air cleaner front section and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4C. Also disconnect the injection pump vacuum pipe from the clips on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. This work is necessary in order to fit the engine hoist 34 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley Jack and block of wood beneath the engine. 35 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower it and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 36 Unscrew the starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. 37 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 39 Trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side ot the engine. If a mechanical speedometer Is fitted unscrew the knurled collar and disconnect the cabte from the transmission. 40 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover. 41 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft to the transmission flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 42 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 43 Move the swrvel hub assembly outwards and support the driveshaft away from Ihe transmission. 44 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the Inner end of the right-hand driveshaft to the intermediate shaft flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 45 Remove the intermediate driveshaft with reference to Chapter 8. 46 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle.
47 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body then unscrew Ihe bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 48 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolts from the bellhousing and pull the transmission away from the engine.

A


Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that It remains steady o/i the jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft
1$
fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate.
Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Appiy a smear* of high-meiting-point grease to the clutch friction piate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. b) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
4 Manual transmission overhaul -general Infomtatlon
Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult and Involved Job for the DIY home mechanic. In addition to dismantling and reassembling many small parts, clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed by selecting shims and spacers. Internal transmission components are also often difficult to obtain, and in many Instances, extremely expensive. Because of this, If the transmission develops a fault or becomes noisy. Ihe best course of action is to have the unit overhauled by a specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange reconditioned unit. Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the more experienced mechanic to overhaul the transmission, provided the special tools are available, and the Job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner, so that nothing is overlooked.
The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external clrclip pliers, bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a sat of pin punches, a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench 8od a vice will be required. During dismantling o1 the transmission, make careful notes of how each component
1$
fitted, to make reassembly easier and more accurate. Before dismantling the transmission, it will help if you have some idea what area is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely related to specific areas In the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Fault Finding Section at the end of this manual for more Information.
5 Reversing light switch -testing, removal and refitting ||
Testing 1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a plunger-type switch screwed into the front of the transmission casing. If a fault develops, first ensure that Ihe circuit fuse has not blown. 2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring connector, and use a multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test circuit to check that there is continuity between the switch terminals only when reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, and there are no obvious breaks or other damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
Removal 3 Access to the reversing light switch Is best achieved from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then unscrew It from the transmission casing.
Refitting 5 Refit the switch and tighten securely. 6 Reconnect the wiring then lower the vehicle to the ground.

7B*4 Automatic transmission
2 Automatic transmission - ^ removal and refitting St
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels, 2 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described In Chapter 5A. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet duct as described In Chapter 4A. 4 Disconnect the kickdown cable at the sector on the throttle housing and detach It from the mounting on the camshaft cover. Also release the cable from the support on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the wiring connectors on the transmission. 6 Disconnect the fluid inlet and outlet Unas from the heat exchanger on top of the transmission. 7 Pull the fluid level dipstick from Its tube on the front of the transmission and tape over the top of the tube to prevent dirt entry. 8 Unscrew and remove the retaining pin and disconnect the speed selector cable from the top of the transmission. 9 Unscrew the upper bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 10 Unscrew the upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 11 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively UBO a trolley jack and block of wood beneath the engine, 12 Remove the screws and remove the front wheel arch liner from under the left-hand wheel arch. 13 Unscrew the nut securing the earth cablo to the transmission. 14 Using a punch drive out the roll pins securing both driveshafts to the final drive output shafts. 15 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 16 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and slide the inner end of the driveshaft from the splines on the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the gaiters. 17 Unscrew the lambdafoxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position it In a safe place to prevent damage. 18 Unscrew ihe nuts securing the downpipe to Ihe exhaust manifold, then lower It and suppon on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 19 Unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing.
3-2 Locking the flywheel when removing the electromagnetic clutch 20 Unscrew the remaining bolt securing the staner motor to the transmission 21 Unbolt and remove Ihe lower flywheel cover from the transmission. 22 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting lo the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 23 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body thon unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 24 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the bellhouslng and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle.

A


Warning: Support the transmission to ensure that It remains steady on the Jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft and pump shaft are fully withdrawn from the electromagnetic clutch housing.
Refitting 25 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a} Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the splines of the transmission input shaft and oil pump driveshaft.
3.6 Checking the resistance of the clutch windings 1 Slip rings
0) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the
specified
torque, where given, c) Renew both driveshaft roll pins.
3 Electro-magnetic clutch • & removal, inspection 5. and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove Ihe transmission as described n Section 2. 2 Turn the flywheel so that two of the lour mounting bolts are accessible, Hold tha flywheel stationary then unscrew Ihe tvrt bolts. To hold the flywheel, Insert a wida bladed screwdriver In the ring gear teeth or alternatively use a piece of angle iron against one of the retaining bolts temporarily Inserted in the cylinder block (see illustration). 3 Turn the crankshaft half a turn and unscrew the remaining bolts, then withdraw the electromagnetic clutch.
Inspection 4 Turn the driven element by means of tha slip rings, and check that the bearing is not noisy or rough. 5 Inspect the slip rings for burning or other damage. Clean them if necessary using fid and a clean rag. 6 Check the resistance of the clutch windings, using an ohmmetor connected across the slip rings (see Illustration). The resistance at 20*0 should be 2 to 4 ohms. 7 Check the Insulation of the windings, using an ohmmeter connected between either sip ring and the body of the clutch (see illustration). Resistance should be Infinity. 8 If the clutch fails any of the foregoing checks, renew it. Apart from the brush gear, Individual spares are not available.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal but tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
windings

9*10 Braking system
10.6 Disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable (arrowed) from the draw bar 6 Working inside ihe vehicle, remove Ihe screws and lift off the handbrake lever trim panel (refer to Section 9 for more detail). At the base of the handbrake lever, full/ slacken off the handbrake adjusting screw and locknut, to remove oil tension from the cable draw bar, then disconnect the relevant handbrake inner cable from the cable draw bar (see illustration) 7 Release the cable grommet from tho floor-pan, then withdraw the cable from the vehicle.
Refitting 8 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that the cables are securely fastened In the clips on the floorpan beetshield and lower suspension a/m. b) On completion, check the handbrake adiustment, as described in Section 9.
11 Hydraulic system -bleeding

A


Warning: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off immediately and thoroughly In the case ot skin contact, and seek immediate medical advice if any fluid is swallowed, or gets into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid are Inflammable, and may ignite when allowed into contact with hot components. When servicing any hydraulic system, it Is safest to assume that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take precautions
11.17 Bleeding a rear brake line
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol that Is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is also an effective paint stripper, and will attack plastics; If any is spilt, It should be washed off immediately, using copious quantities of fresh water. Finally, it Is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) • old fluid may be contaminated and unfit tor further use. Whan topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use the recommended type, and ensure that It comes from a freshly-opened sealed container.
General 1 The correct operation of any hydraulic system is only possible after removing all air from the components and circuit; and this Is achieved by bleeding the syslem. 2 During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, unused hydraulic fluid of the recommended type; never re-use fluid that has already been bled from the system. Ensure that sufficient fluid is available before starting work. 3 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid being already in the system, the brake com-ponents and circuit must be Flushed completely with uncontamlnated, correct fluid, and new seals should be fitted throughout the system. 4 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the system, or air has ontered because of a leak, ensure that the fault is cured before proceeding further. 5 Park Ihe vehicle on level ground, switch off the engine and select first or reverse gear (or P), then chock the wheels and release the handbrake. 6 Cheek that all pipes and hoses are secure, unions tight and bleed screws closed. Remove Ihe dust caps (whore applicable), and clean any dirt from around the bleed screws. 7 Unscrew the master cylinder reservoir cap, and top Ihe master cylinder reservoir up to the MAX level line; refit the cap loosely. Rememoer to maintain the fluid level at least above the MIN level line throughout the procedure, otherwise there is a risk of further air entering the syslem. 8 There are a number of one-man. do-It-yourself brake bleeding kits currently available from motor accessory shops. It is recommended that one of these kits is used whenever possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding operation, and also reduce the risk of expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system. If such a kit is not available, the basic (two-man) method must be used, which is described in detail below. 9 If a kit Is to be used, prepare the vehicle as described previously, and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions, as Ihe procedure may vary slightly according to the type being used; generally, they are as outlined below in the relevant sub-section. 10 Whichever method is used, the same sequence must be followed (paragraphs 11 and 12) to ensure Ihe removal of all air from the system.
Bleeding sequence 11 If Ihe system has been only
partial!?
disconnected, and suitable precautions wwe taken to minimise fluid loss, it should be necessary to bteod only that part of the system (le the primary or secondary circuit). 12 If the complete system Is to be bled, then It should be done working in the following sequence: a) Left-hand rear wheel b) Right-hand front wheel. c) Right-hand rear wheel. d) Left-hand front wheel. Note: When bleeding the rear brakes
on a
vehicle ritled with load proportioning valves: i the rear of the vehicle has been jacked
up to
allow access to ihe brake wheel cylinder,
tha
rear suspension must be compressed
(eg
raising the beam axle with a trolley
jack) so
that the load proportioning valves
remain open
throughout the bleeding process.
Bleeding -basic (two~man) method 13 Collect a clean glass jar, a suitable length of plastic or rubber tubing which Is a light fit over the bleed screw, end a ring spanner lo
Rt
the screw. The help of an assistant will also tie required. 14 Remove the dust cap from the first screw In the sequence if not already done. Fit a suitable spanner and tube to the screw, place the other end of Ihe tube In the jar. and
pour in
sufficient fluid to cover the end of the tube. 15 Ensure that the master cylinder reservoir fluid level is maintained at least above the
MIN
level line throughout the procedure. 16 Have the assistant fully depress the brefce pedal several times to build up pressure, then maintain it on the final downstroke. 17 While pedal pressure is maintained, unscrew ihe bleed screw (approximately one turn) and allow the compressed fluid and orto flow into the
Jar,
The assistant should maintah pedal pressure, following the pedal down to the floor if necessary, and should not rrtaase Ihe pedal until instructed to do so. When ihe flow stops, tighten the bleed screw again, have the assistant retease the pedal sfowty, and recheck the reservoir fluid level (see Illustration). 18 Repeat Ihe steps given in paragraphs 16 end 17 until the fluid emerging from the bled screw is free from air bubbles. If Ihe master cylinder has been drained and refilled,
and
at Is being bled from the first screw In the sequence, allow approximately five seconds between cycles for the master cylinder passages to refill. 19 When no more air bubbles appear, tighter, the bleed screw securely, remove Ihe tube arc spanner, and refit the dust cap (where applicable). Do not overtighten the bleed sew. 20 Repeat the procedure on tho remaining screws In the sequence, until ail air is removed from the system, and the brake pedal feels firm again.

10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks

Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^

Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^

FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^

Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37

Suspension and steering 10*2
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm ibt ft Rasr suspension Damper lower securing bolt 95 70 Damper upper securing bolt 60 44 Handbrake cable support bracket-to-trailing arm screws 15 11 Hub nut 280 207 Trailing arm securing bolt 150 111 Steering Ignition switch/steering column lock securing bolts 4 3 Steering column mounting bolts 55 41 Steering gear mounting bolts 70 52 Steering wheel nut' 50 37 Subframe-to-body bolts 110 81 Track-rod end to hub carrier 40 30 Unlversaijointclampbolts 20 15 Roadwheels Roadwheel bolts 85 63 * Use a new nut
1 General information
Front suspension The front suspension is independent, comprising transverse lower wishbones, coil spring-over-damper strut units and an anti-roll bar. The hub carriors are bolted to the base of the stmt units and are linked to the lower arms by means ot balliotnts. The entire front suspension assembly is mounted on a subframe, which is In turn botted to the vehicle body.
Rear suspension The rear suspension incorporates a torsion beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and separate telescopic dampers. In addition, a rear anil-roll bar is fitted to certain models. The components form a discrete sub-assembly which can be unboiled from the underside of the vehicle separately or as a complete unit.
Steering The two-piece steering shaft runs in a tubular column assembly, which is bolted to a bracket mounted on the vehicles bulkhead. The shaft Is articulated at its lower end by means of a universal Joint, which is clamped to the steering shaft and the steering gear pinion by moans of clamp bolts. The steering gear is mounted on the engine compartment bulkhead, and is connected to the steering arms projecting rearwards from Ihe hub carriers. The track-rods are fitted with balljoints at their inner and outer ends, to allow for suspension movement, and are threaded to facilitate ad|ustment. Hydrauiically-assisted power steering ts fittod to some models. The hydraulic system is powered by a belt-driven servo pump, which is driven from the crankshaft pulley.
Certain models are fitted with an airbag system. Sensors built into the vehicle body are triggered in the event of a front end collision and prompt an Electronic Control Unll (ECU) to activate the airbag, mounted In the centre of the steering wheel and the facia. This reduces the risk of the front seat occupants striking the steering wheel, windscreen or facia during an accident.

A


Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongty advised to entrust to an authorised Flat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbag system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage, in addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check that the airbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
2 Front hub bearings -renewal *
Note: A balljoint separator tool, and a press or suitable alternative tools (see text) will be required for this operation. The bearing will be destroyed during the removal procedure.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake disc and caliper, with reference to Chapter 9. Note that the caliper body can remain bolted to its bracket: there is no need lo disconnect the brake fluid hose from the caliper. 3 With reference to Chapter 8. slacken and remove the driveshaft hub nut. 4 On models with ABS, unbolt the ABS wheel sensor, and remove the screw securing the
ABS sensor wiring to the hub carrier. Suspend the sensor away from the working ares, to avoid the possibility of damage. 5 With reference to Section 17, separate
th»
track-rod end from the hub carrier, using
a
suitable balljoint splitter. 6 Remove the two nuts from tho botts securing Ihe hub carrier to the base of th» suspension strut (refer to Section
3).
Withdrew the bolts and separate the top of hub earrtt from the strut. 7 Disconnect the outboard end of Ito driveshaft from the hub, as described durirg the driveshaft removal and refitting procedm in Chapter 8. Note: There is no naod fo disconnect the Inboard end of the
drivestett
from the transmission. Caution: Do not allow the end of tin driveshaft to hang down under its
own
weight, as this places strain on the
CV
joints; support the end of the shaft uskg wire or string. 8 Slacken and remove the nut and clamp bolt, then push the lower arm down anc separate the balljoint from the base of the tab carrier (see illustrations). 9 At this stage, it is recommended that
the bub
carrier be taken to a engineering workshop,
as
the hub and bearing should ideally be removed from the hub carrier using a hydraulic press
2.8a ... Slacken and remove the nut...

Suspension and steering 10*3
2.10 Using a slide hammer to extract the hub 2.11 Wheel bearing components / Hub carrier 2 Wheel bearing 3 Circlip
Owners wishing to attempt the work them-
selves
should proceed as follows. 10 Mount tho hub carrier firmly In a bench vice. Attach a slide hammer to the hub flange and extract the hub. together with the inner bearing race, If it has remained attached to the hub. Unbolt and remove the heat shield
(see
Illustration). 11 Mount the hub carrier horizontally in the rice, then remove tho bearing retaining circlip. Using a suitable length of tubing as a drift, drive Ihe bearing outer race from the carrier (see Illustration). Note that a flange on the outboard side of the carrier means that the bearing can only be driven out in one direction. 12 Support the inner bearing race, if it has remained attached to the hub, then press or drive the hub from the race. Alternatively, pull trie bearing race from the hub using a suitable Iw or three-legged puller. 13 Before Installing the new bearing, thoroughly clean the bearing location in the tub carrier. U Fit the new bearing from the Inboard side the hub: press or drive the bearing into position, applying pressure only to the bearing oiler race. Oo not lubricate the mating surface
ol the
bearing In an attempt to ease installation. 15 Fit the bearing retaining circlip to its 700ve in the hub carrier, then refit the heat
shield and tighten the retaining screw securely. 16 Support the outer face of the hub carrier across the jaws of a bench vice. 17 Carefully press or draw the hub into the bearing, noting that the bearing inner race must be supported during Ihis operation, to prevent It from being separated from the outer race. This can be achieved using a suitable socket, threaded rod, washers and a length of bar (see Illustration). 18 On completion, check that the hub rotates freely in the hub carrier without resistance or roughness.
2.17 Typical method of drawing the hub into the wheel bearing using improvised tools
Refitting 19 Reconnect the outboard end of the drive-shaft to the hub as described In Chapter 8. Ensure that the driveshaft nut is tightened to the correct torque and adequately staked. Ideally, for safety reasons due to the very high torque of the driveshaft nut, carry out final tightening and staking of the nut after refitting the roadwheel and lowering the car to the ground. 20 Reconnect the hub carrier to the lower arm balljoint, then fit a new clamp bolt nut. Tighten tho nut to the specified torque. 21 Engage the hub carrier with the suspension strut, then refit the securing bolts and nuts, tightening them to the specified torque. 22 Reconnect the steering track-rod balljoint to the hub carrier steering arm. Use a new nut and tighten it to the specified torque. 23 Refer to Chapter 9 and refit the brake disc and caliper. 24 Where applicable, fit the ABS wheel sensor into its mounting hole and tighten the securing screw. 25 Refit the roadwheel, and tower the vehicle to the ground. 26 Have the front wheel alignment checked by a Fiat dealer or a tyre specialist at the earliest opportunity.

Bodywork and fittings
11
*11
securing the motor assembly/winder mechanism to the door 5 Uft the glass out through the window aperture in the top of the door, manipulating the glass past the weatherstrips as it is withdrawn. On 3-door models, it will be necessary to partially remove the weatherstrip from the upper edge of Ihe window aperture, to allow the glass to be withdrawn. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that all weather stnps are
securely
seated on the edges of the window aperture. b) Check the operation of the window regulator mechanism before refitting the door inner trim panel. | 0 Refit the door inner trim panel with | reference to Section 14.
1 Door window regulator
Removal 7 Separate the window glass from the regulator mechanism, as described earlier. 6 Fully raise the window glass, and secure the glass In position using suitable tape, or by wedging the glass in position using rags between the glass and the edge of the door • ensure that the glass cannot drop into the door. Alternatively, lift the glass panel out 1 through the window aperture. 9 Where applicable, separate the two halves of the regulator motor wiring connector. I 10 Unscrew the bolts securing the motor assembly/winder mechanism to the door (see Illustration). t1 Unscrew the two upper and the two lower regulator mechanism securing bolts, then manipulate the complete regulator assembly out through the aperture in the door (see illustrations). 12 The winder/motor assembly, together with its associated control cables remains connected to the regulator mechanism (see Illustration), Note: Carefully mark the relationship between the guide rails and the door to ensure correct adjustment on refitting. Refitting
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing r mind the following points: a) Ensure that all weather strips are securely I seated on the edges of the window aperture
16.11c ... then manipulate the complete regulator assembly out through the aperture in the door b) Check the operation of the window mechanism before refitting the door inner trim panel. c) Refil the door inner tnm panel with reference to Section 14.
19 Facia - ^ removal and refitting 5
Removal 1 Disconnect the batlery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and carry out Ihe following: a) Remove the instrument panel from the facia.
19.5a Prise open the plastic covers...
18.11b ... and the lower regulator mechanism securing bolts...
assembly
b) Remove the radio/cassette unit from the facia 3 Unscrew the fixings for the storage bin above the radio aperture, then remove the bin from the facia. 4 Remove the steenng wheel (see Chapter 10) and the steering column shroud. 5 Prise open the plastic covers, remove the fixings and lift off the handbrake lever console (see Illustrations). 6 Work around the outside of the centre console and unscrew the fixings. Unclip the gear lever gaiter, lift the centre console over the gear lever, then label and unplug the wiring connector beneath and remove the console from the vehicle. 7 Remove the heater control panel from the facia, with reference to Chapter 3. 8 Unscrew the fixings from the upper and lower edges of the combined ventilation/
19.5b ... remove the fixings...

12*2 Body electrical systems
3 Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a faulty earth connection, a blown fuse, a melted lusible link, or a fautty relay {refer to Section 3 for details of testing relays). Visually inspect the condition of all (uses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before testing the components. Use the wiring diagrams lo determine which terminal connections will need to be checked, in order to pinpoint the trouble-spot. 4 The basic tools required for electrical fault-finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of lest leads can also be used for certain tests}; a self-powered test light (sometimes known as a continuity tester); an ohmmeter (to measure resistance): a battery and set of tesi leads: and a lumper wire, preferably with u circuit breaker or fuse incorporated, which can be used to bypass susoect wires or electrical components. Before attempting to locate a problem with tost instruments, use the wiring diagram to determine where to make the connections. 5 To find the source of an intermittent wiring fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection, or damaged wiring Insulation), a wiggle test can be performed on the wiring. This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to see if tha fault occurs as the wiring Is moved. It should be possible to narrow down the source of the fault to a particular section of wiring. This method of testing can be used in conjunction with any of the tests descnbed in the following sub-Sections. 6 Apart from problems due to poor connections, two basic types of fault can occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or short-circuit. 7 Open-circuit faults are caused by a break somewhere in the circuit, which prevents current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will prevent a component from working, but will not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow 8 Short-circuit faults are caused by a shod somewhere in the circuit, which allows Die current flowing In the circuit to escape along an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-circuit faults are normally caused by a breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a feed wire to touch either another wire, or an earthed component such as the bodysheli. A short-circuit fault will normally cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Finding an open-circuit 9 To check for an opon-circuit, connect one lead of a circuit tester or voltmoter to either the negative battery terminal or a known good earth. 10 Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the batter/ or luse. 11 Switch on the circuit, bearing In mind that some circuits are live only when tho ignition switch is moved to a particular position. 12 If voltage is present (Indicated either by
3.2 Main fuse box, located on the driver's side of the facie the toster bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that tho section of Ihe circuit between the relevant connector and the battery is problem-free. 13 Continue to check the remainder ot the circuit in the same fashion. 14 When a point is reached at which no voltage Is present, the problem must lie between that point and the previous test point with voltage. Most problems can be traced to a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit 15 To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the components which draw current from a circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc). 16 Remove the relevant luse Irom the circuit, and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the luse connections. 17 Switch on the circuit, beanng in mind that some circuits are live only when the ignition switch is moved to a particular position. 18 If voltage is present (indicated either by the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that there Is a short-circuit. 19 If no voltage is present, but the fuse still blows with the load(s) connected, this indicates an internal fault in the load(s).
Finding an earth fault 20 The battery negative terminal Is connected to 'earth' - the metal of the engine/transmission and the car body - and
I
IK
J 3.3 To gain access to the fuses, remove the screw and pull the stowage bin away from the facia
most systems are wired so that they only receive a positive feed, the current returning via the metal of Ihe car body. This means that the component mounting and the body form part of that circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can therefore cause a range of electrical faults, ranging from total failure ot a circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular, lights may shine dimly (especially when another circuit sharing the same earth port In operation), motors (eg wiper motors v Ihe radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly, and Ihe operation of one circuit may have an apparently-unrelated effect on another. Ncie that on many vehicles, earth straps axe uses between certain components, such as the engine/transmission and the body, usually whore there is no metal-to-metal contact between components, due to flexible rubber mountings, etc. 21 To check whether a component $ properly earthed, disconnect Ihe battery, and connect one lead of an ohmmeter to a kwwi good earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire or earth connection being tested. Tha resistance reading should be zero; if not. check the connection as follows. 22 If an earth connection Is thought to be faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean pack to bare metal both the bodysheli and ite wire terminal or the component earth connection mating surface. Be careful to remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then use a knife to trim away any palm, so thai a clean metal-to-metal joint Is mads. On reassemoly, tighten the joint fasteners securely: if a wire terminal Is being refitted, use serrated washers between tho terminal and the bodysheli. to ensure a clean and secure connection. When the connection is remade, prevent the onset ot corrosion in the future by applying a coat of petroleum idly
or
stlicone-based grease, or by spraying on (a: regular intervals} a proprietary ignition eoater, or a water-aispersant lubneant.
3 Fuses and relays -general information
Fuses 1 Fuses are designod to break a circuit when a predetermined current is reached, in order to protect the components and wiring wttioh could be damaged by excessive current How. Any excessive current flow will be due to a fault in the circuit, usually a short-circuit (see Section 2). 2 The main fuses are located in the fusefcox on the driver's side of the facia (see illustration). 3 To gain access to the fuses, remove tne screw and pull the stowage bin moulding away from the facia (see illustration). 4 Additional fuses and circuit-breakers are located In the engine compartment, and in an