Rele FIAT PUNTO 1998 176 / 1.G Service Manual

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Valves and associated components 35 Examine the head of each vaive for pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear. Check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check lor any obvious indication that it Is bent. Look tor pits or excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 36 if the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the vaive stem diameter at several points using a micrometer. Any significant difference in the readings obtained Indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 37 If the valves are In satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-tight seal. If the seat is only tightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should nor be used, unless a seat is badly bumed or deeply pitted, If this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be Inspected by an expert, to decldo whether seat re-cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert (where possible) is required. 38 Valve grinding Is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on blocks on a bench. 39 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-gnndtng compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
6.48 Compressing the vaive spring and fitting the split collets
them
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute tho grinding compound (see Illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation 40 If coarse grinding compound Is being used, v/ork only until a dull, matt even surface Is produced on both the valve seal and the valve, then wipe off tho used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring ol light grey malt finish Is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind-In the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 41 When all the valves have been ground-m, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembling the cylinder head. 42 Examine the valve springs for signs of damage ano discoloration, If possible compare the length of the springs with new ones and renew them if necessary. 43 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check ft tor squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost mar tension, obtain a complete new set of springs. It Is normal to renew the valve springs as a matter of course if a major overhaul is being earned out. 44 Renew (he valve stem oil seals regardless of their apparent condition.
Reassembly 45 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and insert the valves into their original locations
6.53 Tightening the camshaft bearing cap nuts (diesel engines)
6.46 Using a socket to press the valve stem seals onto the guides
(see illustration). If new valves are being fitted, insert them Into the locations to which they have been ground. 46 Refit the spring sea( then, working on the first valve, dip the new valve stem sesl in fresh engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it Is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly onto the guide (sea Illustration). 47 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat, then refit the spring retainer. 48 Compress the valve spring, and locate the split collets in the recess in the valve stem. Release the compressor, then repeat the procedure on the remaining valves (see illustration)
Use a dab o) grease to hold Uiejitts* the collets In position on the HlNT valve stem while the spring compressor is released.
49 With ail the valves Installed, place the cylinder head on blocks on the bench and, using a hammer and Interposed block ol wood, top the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 50 On diesel engines, refit the swirl chambers together with their washers and tighten the retaining collars to the specified torque. 51 Oil the cam followers and locate them In their correct positions in the cylinder head. Locate the shims In the cam followers making sure they are in their original positions. 52 Oil the journals then locate the camshaft m the cylinder head with the cam lobes of No 1 cylinder facing upwards (ie No 1 cylinder at TDC). 53 Refit the bearing caps In their correct positions and progressively tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified torque (sea illustration). On petrol engines locate the lubrication pipe on Ihe head and press in the oil feed stub before refitting the bolts. 54 On diesel engines fit a new oil sea) to the right-hand side mount, then refit both side mounts together with new gaskets, Tighten the right-hand mount bolts. Also refit the coolant cover and thermostat housing together with new gaskets (see illustrations).

Apply a smear of clean engine oil to the gudgeon pin. Slide it Into the piston and through the connecting rod small-end. Check that the piston pivots freely on the rod. then secure the gudgeon pin in position with two new circlips. Ensure that each circlip is correctly located In Its groove in the piston.
Refitting and big-end bearing running ciearance check 27 Prior to refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, it Is recommended that the big-end bearing running clearance is checked as follows. Big-end bearing running clearance check 28 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and the bearing locations in both the connecting rod and bearing cap. 29 Press the bearing shells into their locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in the notch In the connecting rod and cap. Take care not to touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers. If the onginal bearing shells are being used for the check, ensure that they are refitted in their original locations. The clearance can be checked in either of two ways. 30 One method is to refit the big-end bearing cap to Ihe connecting rod, ensuring that they are litted the correct way around, with the bearing shells in place. Wilh the cap retaining bolls correctly tightened, use an internal micrometer or vernier caliper to measure the internal diameter of each assembled pair of bearing shells. If the diameter of each corresponding crankshaft journal is measured and Ihen subtracted from the bearing internal diameter, the result will be the big-end beanng running clearance. 31 The second, and more accurate method is to use a product called Plasligauge. Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted then place a strand of Plastlgauge on each (cleaned) crankpin journal. 32 Refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod assemblies to the crankshaft, and refit the bg-end bearing caps, using the marks made or noted on removal to ensure that they are fitted the correct way around. 33 Tighten the beanng cap bolts taking care not to disturb the Plastlgauge or rotate the connecting rod dunng the tightening sequence. 34 Dismantle the assemblies without rotating the connecting rods. Use the scale pnnted on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain the big-end bearing running clearance. 35 If the clearance is significantly different from that expected, the bearing shells may be Ihe wrong size (or excessively worn. If the original shells are being re-used). Make sure mat no dirt or oil was trapped between Ihe bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigauge was wider al one end than at the other, the crankshaft journal may be tapered.
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
7.40a The arrow on the piston crown must point towards the timing belt end of the engine (petrol engine) 36 On completion, carefully scrape away all traces of the Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your fingernail, or some other object which is unlikely to score the beanng surfaces.
Final piston/connecting rod refitting 37 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly fitted. If new shells are being fitted, ensure that alt traces of the protective grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-free cloth. 38 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons, and piston rings, then lay out each piston/con-necting rod assembly in its respective position. 39 Start with assembly No 1. Position the piston ring gaps 120° apart, then clamp them in position with a piston nng compressor. 40 Insert Ihe piston/connecting rod assembly into the top of cylinder making sure it is Ihe correct way round. On petrol engines, ensure that the arrow on the piston crown is pointing towards the timing belt end of the engine and on diesel engines, ensure that the cloverleaf-shaped cut-out on the piston crown is towards the front (oil filter side) of the cylinder block. Using a block of wood or hammer handle against the piston crown, tap the assembly into the cylinder until the piston crown is Hush with the top of the cylinder (sea illustrations). 41 Ensure that the bearing shell is still correctly Installed. Liberally lubricate the crankpin and both bearing shells. Taking care not to mark the cylinder bores, pull the piston/connecting rod assembly down the bore and onto the crankpin.
7.40b Inserting the piston/connecting rod assembly into the cylinder bore using a hammer handle (diesel englno) 42 Refit the big-end beanng cap, tightening Its retaining bolts finger-tight at first, Note that Ihe faces with the identification marks must match (which means that the bearing shell locating tabs abut each other). 43 Tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts evenly and progressively to the specified torque setting. On diesel engines tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque then angle-tighten them to the specified Stage 2 angle using an angle-measuring gauge, (see illustrations) 44 Once the bearing cap retaining bolts have been correctly tightened, rotate the crankshaft. Check that il turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected if new components have been fitted, but there should be no signs of binding or tight spots. 45 Refit the remaining three piston/ connecting rod assemblies in the same way. 46 Refit the cylinder head, anti-vibration plate (16-valve engines), oil pump pick-up/filter screen assembly and sump with reference to Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C.
8 Crankshaft -removal and inspection 35
Removal 1 Remove the
sump,
oil pump and pick-up tube, and flywheel/driveplate with reference to the relevant Sections of Chapter 2 Parts A, 8 or C. On 16-valve engines, unbolt and remove the anti-vibration plate from the main bearing caps.
7.43a Torque-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolls (diesel engine) 7.43b Angle-tightening the big-end bearing cap bolts (diesel engine)

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.18 Angle-tightening the main bearing cap bolts (petrol engine)
12.Ida Application area for silicone Instant gasket on crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine) 12.19b Refitting the crankshaft rear oil seal housing (petrol engine)
19 Fit a new oil seal to the crankshaft rear oil seal housing. Apply grease to the seal lips. On 1108 cc petrol engines a conventional gasket Is not used at the oil seal retainer joint face, but a 3 mm diameter bead of RTV (Instant) silicone gasket must be applied as shown -allow at least one hour 1or the gasket to cure before oil contacts it. On all other engines a gasket Is fitted Securely tighten the housing bolts (see Illustrations). 20 Check that Ihe crankshaft rotates freely by turning It by hand. If resistance Is fell, re-check the running clearances, as described above. 21 Carry out a check of the crankshaft endfloat as described at the beginning of Section 8. If the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft have been checked and new thrust washers hove been fitted, then the endfioat should be within specification.
22 Refit the pistons and connecting rods as described in Section 7. 23 Refit the flywheeVdriveplate, and-vibration plate (16-valvo engines), oil pump and pick-up tube, and sump with reference to the relevant Sections of Parts A, B or C of this Chapter.
13 Engine -initial start-up after overhaul and reassembly
1 With the engine refitted In the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make a final check that everything has been reconnected, and that there are no tools or rags left In the engine compartment.
Petrol engine models 2 Remove the spark plugs, then disable the
ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring plug to the ignition colls. 3 Turn the engine on the starter until Ihe oi pressure warning light goes out. Refit ihe spark plugs, and reconnect the LT wiring.
Diesel engine models 4 Disconnect tho wiring from the stop solenoid on the Injection pump, then turn the engine on the starter motor until the oil pressure warning light goes out. Reconnect ihe wire to the stop solenoid. 6 Fully depress the accelerator pedal, turn tho ignition key to its first position and wait tor HHJ preheating warning light to go out.
All models 6 Start the engine, noting that this may take i little longer than usual, due to the fuel system components having been disturbed.
12.19c On diesel engines use a screwdriver to prise out the rear oil seal 12.19d Locate the new oil soalln the housing (diosel engine)... 12.19e ... and use a block of wood to drive it in
12.19f On Diesel engines fit the gasket to the cylinder block ... 12.19g ... then locate the rear oli seal housing... 12.19h ... and Insert the bolts

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1 General information and precautions
Genera/ Information The engine cooling/cabin heating system is ol pressurised type, comprising a coolant pump driven by the camshaft timing belt (petrol engine models) or auxiliary drlvebelt (diesel engine models), a crossllow radiator, a coolant expansion tank, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, heater matrix, and all associated hoses and switches. The system functions as follows: Ihe coolant pump circulates cold water around the cylinder block and head passages, and through the Inlet manifold, heater matrix and throttle body to the thermostat housing. When the engine Is cold, the thermostat remains closed and prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when the car is in forward motion. The airllow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan. when necessary, As the temperature of the coolant in the radiator drops, it flows to the bottom of the radiator by convection, and passes out through the bottom hose to the coolant pump - the cycle is then repeatod, When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of It is displaced into the expansion tank. Coolant collects In the tank, and ts returned to Ihe radiator when the system cools. On petrol engine models, the expansion tank is integrated into the side of the radiator. On diesel engine models, and certain petrol engine models with air conditioning, the tank is a separate unit, mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment. On turbo diesel engine models, the coolant is also passed through a supplementary engine oil cooler, to assist In controlling the engine lubricant temperature. Tho electric cooling fan mounted in front of the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the swilch/sensor actuates the tan lo provide additional airflow through the radiator, The switch cuts the electrical supply to the Ion when the coolant temperature has dropped below a preset threshold (see Specifications).
Precautions

A


Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, whlio the engine is hot, as then is a high risk of scalding, tf the expansion tank pressure cap must be removed before the
engine and radiator have fulty cooled (even though this is not recommended?, the pressure in the cooling system must first be relieved. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the pressuro cap until a hissing sound Is heard. When the hissing stops, indicating that the pressure has reduced, slowly unscrew the pressure cap until it can be removed; If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep your face well away from the pressure cap opening, and protect your hands.

A


Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or In a puddle In the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal tf ingested.

A


Warning: If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine and ignition are switched off. Be careful to keep your hands, hair, and any loose clothing well clear when working In the engine compartment.
2 Cooling system hoses - f&> disconnection and renewal ^
1 The number, routing and pattern of hoses will vary according to model, but the same basic procedure applies. Before commencing work, make sure that the new hoses are to hand, along wilh new hose clips if needed, it is good practice to renew the hose clips at the same time as the hoses. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 1A or 18, saving the coolant if it is fit for re-use. Apply a little penetrating oil onto the hose clips if they are corroded. 3 Release the hose clips from the hose concerned. Three types of clip are used; worm-drive. spring and 'sardine-can'. The worm-drive clip is released by turning its screw anti-clockwise. The spring clip Is released by squeezing Its tags together with pliers, at the same time working the cbp away from the hose stub. The sardine-can clips are not re-usable, and are best cut off with snips or side cutters. 4 Unclip any wires, cables or other hoses which may be attached to the hose being removed. Make notes for reference when reassembling If necessary. 5 Release the hose from its stubs with a twisting motion. Be careful not to damage the stubs on deltcate components such as the radiator, or thermostat housings. If the hose Is stuck fast, the best course is often to cut it off using a sharp knife, but again be careful not to damage the stubs.
6 Before fitting the new hose, smear the stubs with washing-up liquid or a suitable rubber lubricant to aid fitting. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber. 7 Fit the hose clips over the ends of the hose, then fit the hose over its stubs. Work the hose Into position. When satisfied, locate and tighten the hose dips. 6 Refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. Run the engine, and chock that there are no leaks. 9 Recheck the tightness of Ihe hose clips on any new hoses after a few hundred miles. 10 Top-up the coolant level if necessary.
3 Radiator -
removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal Note: If leakage is the reason for removing
the
radiator, bear In mind that minor leaks can often be cured using proprietary radiator sealing compound, with the radiator in situ. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray. 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as desenbed In Chapter 4B, 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect Ihe (op and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator. In addition on diesel engine models, and petrol engine models with a remotely-sited expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the right hand side ol the radiator (see Illustrations), 5 Unscrew the fixings and lift the plastic trim panel from above the front bumper Unscrew the bolt(s) securing tho radiator to the upper body panel (see Illustration). Note that the radiator and cooling fan assembly share the same upper mounting bolt. 6 Unbolt the cooling fan(e) and shroud assembly from Ihe rear ot the radiator, as described in Section 5.
3.4a Slacken the clip and disconnect the radiator bottom hose

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
2.4a Disconnect the large breather hose... ziecessary when handling it cannot be mrstressed. Note that residual pressure
wttf
remain in the tuei lines long after the wh/cte was last used, When disconnecting any fuel line, first depressurise the fuel
system
(see Section 8).
2 Air cleaner and intet system • removal and refitting
1
Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment l
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner element as described in Chapter 1A. 2 Disconnect the outer section from the hot
air
tube and the inlet air duct and remove it
from
the engine compartment. 3II necessary remove the inlet air duct. 4 Disconnect Ihe large and small breather
roses
from the inner section of the air cleaner, tftsn unscrew the retaining nuts and lift the section from the throttle body (see lustrations).
5
Recover the sealing ring. Check the ring for condition and renew it if necessary.
6
Wipe clean the inner surfaces of both the merand outer sections of the air cleaner. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal ol removal but renew
tie
element
H
necessary.
3 Inlet air temperature regulator -removal and refitting
Removal t
The
thermostatically-controlled cold air flap cpener is located in the air cleaner outer ttsrig section. To check the unit, disconnect
ire air
inlet duct with the engine cold and use imrrorto check that the flap Is positioned to aJmit only hot air from the shroud on the utaust manifold. Next, warm up the engine
and
check that the flap moves to admit only sett air from the inlet duct. If the unit is faulty fl must be renewed.
2
Remove the air cleaner element as •senbod in Chapter
1
A.
kickdown cable adjustment as described in Chapter 7B before adjusting the accelerator cable • in its rest position the accelerator pedal should have approximately 8.0 mm free travel.
5 Engine management system components -removal and refitting I
2.4b ... and the small breather hose ...
3 Unscrew the retaining screw and remove the regulator from the air cleaner outer section.
Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet ducting as desenbed in Section 2. 2 To release the cable from the throttle body, unscrew the outer cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam, and release the outer cable from its mounting bracket. 3 Working under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 4 Release the bulkhead grommet and withdraw the accelerator cable from Inside the engine compartment.
Refitting and adjustment 5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but adjust the cable (by means of the outer cable locknuts) so that there is only a very small amount of free play present at the throttle body end of the inner cable. Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal, and check that the throttle cam opens fully and returns to the at-rest position, then secureJy tighten the cable locknuts. On Selecta models, check the
Note: Refer to the warning given in Section 1 before proceeding. Throttle body assembly
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as desenbed in Section 2. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the throttle potentiometer, idle control stepper motor, inlet air temperature sensor and the injector wiring loom connector situated on the front of the throttle body. 3 Depressurise the fuel system with reference to Section 8, then release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses from the throttle body assembly, if the original Fiat retaining clips are still fitted, cut the clips and discard them; replace them with standard luel hose clips on refitting. 4 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam and froe tho outer cable from its retaining bracket. Position the cable clear of the throttle body. 5 Disconnect the EVAP purge valve hose, and the MAP sensor hose from the rear of the throttle body. 6 Slacken and remove the four bolts securing the throttle body assembly to tho Inlet manifold, then remove the assembly along with its insulating spacer. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure, bearing in mind the following points: a) Examine the insulating spacer for signs of damage, and renew //necessary, b) Ensure that the throttle body, inlet manifold and insulating spacer ma ting surfaces are clean and dry, then fit the throttle body and spacer, and securely tighten the retaining bolts.
2.4c ... then remove the retaining nuts. 2.4d ... and remove the air cleaner inner section

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
motor c) Ensure that all hoses are correctly reconnected and, where necessary, that their retaining clips are securely tightened. d) Adjust the accelerator cable as described In Section 4.
Fuel injector Note: If a faulty Injector Is suspected, before condemning the Injector, it is worth vying the effect of one of the proprietary Injector cleaning treatments. Removal 8 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as described In Section 2. 9 Disconnect the wiring then unscrew the mounting screws and remove Ihe Injector from the throttle body. Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Fuel pressure regulator
Removal 11 Remove Ihe air cleaner and air duel as described In Section 2. 12 Using a marker pen. make alignment marks between the regulator cover end the throttle body, then undo the four retaining
screws. As the screws are loosened, place a rag over the cover to catch any fuel spray which may be released. 13 Lift off the cover, then remove the spring and withdraw the diaphragm, noting Its correct fitted orientation. Remove all traces of dirt, and examine the diaphragm for signs of splitting. If damage Is found, it will be necessary to renew the complete upper throttle body assembly. Refitting 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal ensuring that the diaphragm and cover are fitted the correct way round, and that the retaining screws are securely tightened,
Idle control stepper motor
Removal 15 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), then remove the air cleaner and air duct as described in Section 2. 16 Using a crosshead screwdriver, unscrew the mounting screws and remove the stepper motor from the throttle body. Recover the gaskei (see illustration). 17 Clean the unit and check for damage and wear. Refitting 18 When refitting the unit use a new gasket and make sure that the plunger is inserted correctly using the following procedure. Insert the unit and refit the mounting screws loosely. Reconnect the wiring then switch on the ignition several times so that the unit centralises itself. Finally fully tighten the mounting screws to the specified torque. Note: The mounting screws are covered with a locking agent and must be renewed every time they are removed 19 Leave the battery negative terminal disconnected for about 20 minutes - the injection/ignition ECU will position the Idle control stepper motor correctly the first time the engine is started. Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
Throttle potentiometer
Removal 20 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as described in Section 2. 21 Disconnect the wiring from the throttle potentiometer. 22 Using an Allen key unscrew the mounting screws then withdraw the unit from the throttle body (see Illustration). Note: The mounting screws ere covered with a locking agent and must be renewed every time they are removed. Refitting 23 When refitting the unit make sure that the pin Is correctly engaged, and tighten the mounting screws to the specified torque. 24 If a Rat test Instrument is available, the
operation of the throttle potentiometer can be checked at this stage. Before connecting the wiring first turn Ihe ignition key to position MAR and wait a few seconds, then return the key to the STOP position, Reconnect the wiring and connect the test instrument. Turn the Ignition key to the MAR position and cancel the error that will appear. The throttle position Indicated should be between 0° and 4°. If greater than this, check thai the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted however If the correct reading cannot be obtained renew the unit.
Inlet air temperature sensor
Removal 25 Remove the throtlle body assembly as described earlier In this Section. 28 Extract the plastic pins and remove the press-fit cover from the top of the throttle body. 27 Invert the cover then unscrew the mounting screws and remove the Inlet air temperature sensor from the cover. Refitting 28 Refining Is a reversal of removal.
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
Removal 29 The manifold absolute pressure sensor is located on the left-hand side of the bulkhead. 30 Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the sensor from the bulkhead, Disconnect the wiring and vacuum pipe. Refitting 31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check the condition of the vacuum pipe and renew it if necessary.
Coolant temperature sensor
Removal 32 The coolant temperature sensor Is located on the left-hand side of the inlet manifold. Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A before removing it. 33 Disconnect the wiring. 34 Unscrew the sensor and remove It from the Inlet manifold. If using a socket take care not to damage Ihe wiring connector on the sensor. Refitting 35 Refitting Is a reversal of removal bui tighten Ihe sensor to the specified torque. Do not exceed the specified torque otherwise the unit may be damaged.
Crankshaft TDC sensor
Removal 36 The crankshaft TDC sensor Is located on the front side of the crankshaft pulley. Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car Bnd support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). Remove 5.22 Throttle potentiometer mounting screws

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
1 The luel system referred to In this Section is defined as the tank-mounted fuel pump, the fuel litter, the throttle body and pressure regulator components, and the metal pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel lines between these components. All ihese contain fuel which will be under pressure while the engine Is running and/or while tha Ignition is switched on. The pressure will remain for some time after tho ignition has been switched off, and must be relieved before any of these components are disturbed (or servicing work. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/sconnecf/ngr the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 3 Place a container beneath the relevant connection/union to be disconnected, and have a large rag ready to soak up any escaping fuel not being caught by the container. 4 Slowly loosen the connection or union nut (as applicable) to avoid a sudden release of pressure, and wrap tho rag around the connection to catch any fuel spray which may be expelled. Once the pressure is released, disconnect the fuel line, and Insert plugs to minimise fuel loss and prevent the entry of dirt Into the fuel system.
9 Inlet manifold -removal and refitting ^
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section 1 before proceeding.
Removal 1 Remove the throttle body assembly as described in Section 5. 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A. 3 Disconnect the winng connector from the coolanl temperature sensor (situated on the left-hand sidB of the manifold). 4 Undo the bolt securing the accelerator cable mounting bracket to the manifold, and position it clear of the manifold. 5 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect tha coolant hose from the rear of the manifold. 6 Disconnect the brake vacuum hose. 7 Undo the seven manifold retaining nuts and
10.2 The diagnostic connector la located behind the ECU bolts, and remove (he manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket and discard It; a new one should be used on refitting.
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces are clean and dry, and fit a nev/ manifold gasket. Refit the manifold and securely tighten Its retaining nuts. b) Ensure that all relevant hoses are reconnected fo their original positions and are securely held (where necessary) by the retaining clips. c) Refit the throttle body assembly with reference to Section S. d) On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A.
correctly adjusted, and that the engine breather hoses are clear and undamaged. 2 If these checks fall to reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing. A wiring block connector Is Incorporated In the engine management circuit, into which a special electronic diagnostic tester can be plugged; the connector is situated behind the ECU (see Illustration). The tester will locate the fault quickly and simply, alleviating the need to test all the system components Individually, which is a time-consuming operation that carries a high risk of damaging the ECU.
Adjustments 3 As mentioned above, the idle speed and mixture adjustment are all monitored and controlled by the ECU, and are not adjustable Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and ihe idle speed. However, If thes* are found lo be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Flat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
11 Unleaded petrol -general Information and usage
10 Fuel injection system - & testing and adjustment S
Testing 1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection system, first ensure that all the system winng connectors are securely connected and free of corrosion. Then ensure that the fault Is not due to poor maintenance; ie, check that the air cleanor fitter element is clean, the spark plugs are In good condition and correctly gapped, that tho valve clearances are
Note: The information given in this Chapter
is
correct at the time of writing. If updated Information is thought to be required, check with a Fiat dealer. If travelling abroad, consult one of the motonng organisations (or a similar authority) for advice on the fuel available. 1 All petrol models are fitted with a catalytic converter and must be run on unleaded fuel only - the fuel recommended by Flat is given In the Specifications of this Chapter. Under no circumstances should leaded fuei (UK 4-slar) be used, as this may damage the converter. 2 Super unleaded petrol (98 octane) can also be used in all models if wished, though there is no advantage in doing so.

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
1.1b IAW Weber-Marelli multi-point injection (MPI) system (16-valve engines) J Fuel
tank
2 Fuel pump 3 Multi-purpose
valve
4 Safety
valve
5 Anti-reflux
valve
6 F/fter 7 Battery 8
EVAP
solenoid
9 Dual
relay
10 Ignition switch 111nertia switch
12
Air conditioning compressor
13
Fuse 14 Throttle position sensor

1$
idle control stepper motor 17 Ignition coils 18 Sparkplugs 19 Fuel
rail
20 Pressure regulator 21 Injectors
15
Intake air temperature/pressure 22 Coolant temperature sensor sensor 23 Lambda/oxygen sensor
24 Rpm and TDC sensor 25 Engine immobiliser control unit 26 Catalytic converter 27 IAW failure warning light 28 EVAP canister 29 ECU 30 Diagnostic socket 31 Rev counter
Problems with the system should therefore be referred to a Fiat dealer for assessment. Once the fault has been Identified, the removal/ refitting procedures detailed in the following Sections can then be followed.
Precautions

A


Warning: Many procedures In this Chapter require the removal of fuel lines and connections, which may result In fuel spillage. Before carrying out any operation on the fuel system, refer to the precautions given In Safety flrstl at the beginning of this manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol Is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed. Note that residual pressure will remain in the fuel lines long after the vehicle was last used, When disconnecting tny fuel line, first depressurise the fuel system {see Section 9).
2 Air cleaner and inlet system Sk - removal
and
refitting ^
Removal
1242 cc (8-valve) engines 1 Remove the air cleaner element as described In Chapter 1A. 2 Disconnect the outer section from the hot air tube and the Inlet air duct and remove it from the engine compartment. 3 If necessary remove the inlet air duct. 4 Disconnect the large and small breather hoses from the inner section of the air cleaner, then unscrew the retaining nuts and lift the section from the throttle body. 5 Recover the sealing ring. Check the nng for condition and renew it it necessary. 6 Wipe clean the inner surfaces of both the Inner and outer sections of the air cleaner,
1242 cc (16-valve) engines 7 Release the hose clip and disconnect the inlet air duct from the resonator (see illustration).
2.7 Release the hose clip and disconnect the inlet air duct from the resonator

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
2.8 Undo tho two bolts securing the resonator to the camshaft cover
8 Undo the two bolts securing the resonator to the camshaft cover (see illustration) 9 Release ihe wiring loom support clip from the slot on the side of the resonator lower extension, then lift the resonator off the camshaft cover (see illustrations). Disconnect Ihe crankcase breather hose from the underside of tho resonator and remove the resonator from the engine. 10 Undo the nuts secunng the sides of the air cleaner to the mounting brackets at the front of the engino. 11 Release the hose clip and disconnect the inlet air duct from the throttle body. 12 Release the crankcase ventifation hose from the pipe stub on the camshaft cover then remove the air cleaner and inlet air duct assembly from the engine (see illustration).
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal but renew the air cleaner element as described In Chapter
1 A,
if necessary.
Inlet air temperature regulator -liWfii' I
2.9o Release the wiring support clip (arrowed) from the slot on the resonator lower extension ...
the shroud on the exhaust manifold. Next, warm up tho engine and check that the flap moves to admit only cold air from the Inlet duct. If the unit is faulty it must be renewed. 2 Remove the air cleaner element as described in Chapter
1
A. 3 Unscrew tha retaining screw and remove tho regulator from the air cleaner outer section.
Refitting 4 Rofitting is a reversal of removal.
I
Removal 1 The thermostatically-controlled cold air flop opener, fitted to 8-valve engines, is located in the air cleaner outer cos>ng section. To check lha unit, disconnect the atr inlet duct with the engine cold and use a mirror to check that the flap Is positioned to admit only not air from
2.12 Removing the air cleaner and Inlet air duct assembly
4 Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment
1242 cc (8-valve) engines
Removal 1 Remove Ihe air cleaner as described In Section 2. 2 To release the cable from the throttle body, unscrew the outer cable locknuls, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam, and release the outer cable from its mounting bracket, 3 Wording under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from tho fork at the top of the pedal arm. 4 Release the bulkhead grommel and withdraw tho accelerator cable from inside Ihe engine compartment. Refitting and adjustment 5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but ad|ust the cable (by means of the outer cable locknuts} so that there Is only a very small amount of free play present at the throttle body end of the inner cablo. Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that the throttlo cam opens fully and returns to the at-rest position, then securely tighten the cable locknuts.
1242 cc (16-valve) engines
Removal 6 Dlsconnoel the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 7 Remove the resonator, air cleaner and Inlet air duct as described in Section 2.
camshaft cover
8 Undo the engine management ECU mounting bracket bolts, release the ECU wiring loom from Ihe support clips and move tho ECU and wiring loom to one side for access to the accelerator cable. 9 Free the accelerator inner cable from the throttle cam, remove the outer cable spring clip, then pull the outer cable out from its mounting bracket rubber grommet (see illustration). 10 Trace the cable back to its entry point in the engine compartment bulkhead and undo the bulkhead support bracket mounting bolt. 11 Working back along the length of the cable, free It from any retaining clips or ties, noting its correct routing. 12 Working under the instrument panel Inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 13 Release the bulkhead support bracket and withdraw the accelerator cable from inside the engino compartment. Refitting end adjustment
14 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but adjust the cable as follows before refitting the outer cable spring clip. 16 Ensuring that the throttle cam is fully against its stop, gently pull the cable out of its grommet until all free play Is removed from the inner cable. 16 With the cable held in this position, lit the spring clip to tho first outer cable groove visible in front of the mounting brackot rubber grommet. This should leave a small amount of freeplay in tho inner cable which is necessary to ensure correct throttle operation.
4.9 Accelerator outer cable spring clip (arrowed)

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
17 Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that the throttle cam opens luily and returns smoothly to its stop. If necessary, reposition the spring clip In the next outer cable groove and recheck the throttle operation. 18 Refit the remainder of the disturbed components.
5 Engine management
system
^ components
(1242
cc, 8-vatve § engines) -
removal and refitting
^
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section T
before
proceeding.
Throttle body assembly
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and inlet air duct as described in Section 2. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the throttle potentiometer, the idle control stepper motor and the inlet air temperature sensor. 3 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam and free the outer cable from its retaining bracket. Position the cable clear of the throttle body. 4 Unclip and disconnect the EVAP purge valve hose, and Ihe MAP sensor hose from the rear of the throttle body then, where applicable, disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose from the front of the throttle body. 5 Slacken and remove the four bolts securing the throttle body assembly to the inlet manifold, then remove the assembly along with its insulating spacer. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure. bearing in mind the following points: 4! Examine the Insulating spacer for signs of damage, and renew If necessary. b) Ensure the throttle body, inlet manifold and insulating spacer mating surfaces are clean and dry, then fit the throttle body and spacer, and securely tighten the retaining bolts. c) Ensure ail hoses are correctly reconnected and, where necessary, /her their retaining clips are securely tightened. d) Adjust the accelerator cable as described in Section 4.

Fuel
rail and injectors
Removal 7 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting tho battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Remove the throttle body assembly as described earlier in this Section, however it is only necessary to move the unit to one side for access to the fuel rail and therefore it Is unnecessary to disconnect the accelerator caWe and hoses etc.
9 Depressurise Ihe fuel system as described in Section 9. 10 Loosen the clips or release the quick-release couplings and disconnect the fuel inlet and, on pre-1998 models, outlet hoses from the fuel rail. Note the fitted positions of the hoses to aid refitting later. 11 Unplug the ln}ector wiring harness connectors, labelling them to aid correct refitting later. 12 Unscrew the bolts securing the fuel rail assembly to the Inlet manifold, then carefully pull the Injectors from the Inlet manifold. Remove the assembly from the engine and remove the injector lower O-ring seals. 13 The injectors can be removed Individually from the fuel rail by extracting the relevant metal clip and easing Ihe injector out of the rail. Remove the injector upper O-ring seals (see illustration).
14 On pre-1998 models, if necessary remove the retaining clip and remove the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail. 15 Check the electrical resistance of the injector using a multimeter and compare It with the Specifications. Note: If a faulty Injector is suspected, before condemning the injector, It is worth trying the effect of one of the proprietary injector-cleaning treatments. Refitting 16 Refit the injectors and fuel rail by following the removal procedure, in reverse, noting the following points: a) Renew the injector O-rlng seals, and smear them with a little Vaseline before assembling. Take care when fitting the injectors to the fuel rail and do not press them in further than required to fit the retaining clip otherwise the O-ring seal may be damaged.
1 Fuel rail 2 Fuel pressure regulator 3 Injectors
5.13 Fuel rail and Injector removal 4 Vacuum stub connect/on 5 Fuel inlet hose 6 Fuel return hose
7 Mounting bolts 8 Injector mounting dip 9 Injector mounting dip