Dwa FIAT PUNTO 1998 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

ia.2 Servicing specifications - petrol models
Lubricants and fluids Refer to end ot Weekly checks on page 0*17
Capacities Engine oil (including filter) 1108 cc engine 3.47 litres 1242 cc (8-valvB) engine 3.74 litres 1242 cc (16-valve) engine 2.80 litres Cooling system 4,6 litres
Manual transmission 5-spee d 1.65 litres 6-spee d 1.87 litres Automatic transmission 1.98 litres Power-assisted steering 0.65 Irtres Fuel tank 47 litres Washer reservoir Wllhouthesdllghl washers 2.5 litres With headlight washers 7.0 litres
Engine Olf niter - Champion F107 Auxiliary drivebelt tension 5.0 mm deflection midway between pulleys Valve clearances - engine cold: Inlet Exhaust 1108 cc and 1242 cc (single-point petrol injection) 0.40±0.05mm 0.50±0.05mm 1242 cc (multi-point petrol Injection 0.40 1 0.05 mm 0.45 1 0.05 mm
Cooling system Antifreeze mixture (50% antifreeze) Protection down to -35"C Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Fuel system Engine idle speed . 900 * 50 rpm CO 0.35 maximum Air filter element: 1108 cc engine with 6-speed transmission -... Champion U647 1108 cc engine (Easl Europe) Champion U648 1242 cc engine (60 models) Champion U647 1242
CO
engine (75.85 and Sporting models) Champion U649 Fuel filler: Up to September 1995 October 1995 onwards 1108 cc engine Champion L213 Champion L225 1242 cc engine (60 models) Champion L213 Champion 1225 1242 cc engine {75 models) Champion L203 Champion L225
Ignition system Ignition liming Refer to Chapter 58 Spark plugs: Type Gap* 1108 cc and 1242 cc (6-valve) engines Champion RC9YCC 0.9 mm 1242 cc (16-valve) engine ,... Champion RA4HCC 0.8 mm The spark plug gap quoted Is Diet recommenced by Champion for their specined plugs listed above. If spar* plugs of any other type ere to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer's recommendations. Brakes Brake pad lining minimum thickness 15 mm Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness 2.0 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm itrfft Automatic transmission lluld drain plug 25 10 Automatic transmission fluid sump bolts 4 3 Manual transmission oil drain plug: Stage 1 12 9 Stage 2 Angle-lighten a further 180" Manual transmission oil filler plug 40 30 Roadwheel bolts 86 83 Spark plugs 27 20 Sump drain plug 10 7

1B.2
Servicing specifications - diesel models
Lubricants and fluids Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 0*17
Capacities Engine oil (including filter) Non-turbo diesei engine 4.95 litres Turbo diesel engine 4.84 litres Cooling system 7.2 litres
Manual transmission Non-turbo diesel engine 2.37 litres Turbo diesei engine t .98 litres Power-assisted steering 0.65 litres
Fuel tank 47 litres Washer reservoir Without headlight washers 2.5 litres With headlight washers 7.0 litres
Engine Oil fitter Engine Idle speed: Non-turbo diesel engine Turbo diesel engine Auxiliary drivebelt tension ...... Valve clearances • engine cold: Inlet Exhaust
Champion C112
8l0«40rpm 900 ± 20 rpm 5.0 mm deflection midway between pulleys
0.30 mm * 0.05 mm 0.35 mm ± 0.05 mm
Cooling system Antifreeze mixture: 50% antifreeze Protection down to-35°C Note: Refer to antifreeze manufactuivr for latest recommendations.
Fuel system Air filter element: Non-turbo diesel engine (with Lucas/CAV Injection) Champion U611 Turbo diesel engine (with Bosch Injection) Champion U579 Fuel filter Champion L120
Brakes Brake pad lining minimum thickness 1-5 mm Brake shoe friction material minimum thickness 2.0 mm
Tyre pressures See end of Weekly checks on page 0*18
Torque wrench settings Fuel filter bracket to body ..... « Fuel filter to bracket i........ Manual transmission oil drain plug: Non-turbo diesel engine: Stage 1 Stage 2 Turbo diesel engine Manual transmission oil filler plug Roadwheel bolts
Nm Ibfft 18 13 24 18
12 9 Angle-tighten a further 180® 46 34 46 34

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
4.4a Unbolt the engine oil dipstick tube...
3 Cylinder compression test
Note: A compression tester specifically designed for diesef engines must be used for this test. 1 When engine performance Is down, or if misfiring occurs, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine's condition, If the lest is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 A compression tester specifically Intended for diesel engines must be used, because of the higher pressures involved. The Ie6ter is connected to an adapler which screws Into the glow plug or injector hole. It is unlikely to be worthwhile buying such a tester for occasional use. but it may be possible to borrow or hire one • if not. have the test performed by a garage. 3 Unless specific instructions to the contrary are supplied with the tester, observe the following points: 9) The battery must bo in a good state of charge, the air titter must be clean, end the engine should be at normal operating temperature. b) AH the in/actors or glow plugs should be removed before starting the lest. If removing the injectors, also remove the flame shield washers, otherwise they may be blown out. c) The stop solenoid must be disconnected.
4.4b ... and remove it from the rubber grommet in the oil pump housing
fo prevent the engine from running or fuel from being discharged. 4 There is no need to hold the accelerator pedal down during the test, because the diesel engine air inlet is not throttled. 5 The cause of poor compression Is less easy to establish on a diesel engine than on a petrol one. The effect of introducing oil into the cylinders (wet testing) Is not conclusive, because there is a risk that the oil will sit in the recess on the piston crown, instead of passing to the rings. However the following can be used as a rough guide to diagnosis. 6 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; a difference of more than 5 bars between any two cylinders Indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly In a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked hoad could also be the cause). 7 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders Is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them: the presence of coolant In the engine oil will confirm this,
Leakdown test 8 A leakdown test measures the rate at which compressed air fed into the cylinder Is lost. It is an alternative to a compression test, and in many ways it is better, since the escaping air provides easy identification of where pressure loss is occurring (piston rings, valves or head gasket). 9 The equipment needed for leakdown testing is unlikely to be available to the home mechanic. If poor compression Is suspected, have the test performed by a suitably-equipped garage.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal
and
refitting
Note: Fiat specify the use of a spec/a/ timing belt tension measuring tool to correctly set the timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt fens/on rs known to be correct. Refer to a Fiat dealer for advice.
General Information 1 The function of the timing belt is to drive the camshaft and fuel injection pump. Should the belt slip or break in service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valve contact
will occur, resulting In serious engine damage. 2 The timing bolt should be renewed at the specified intervals (see Chapter 1B), or earlier If It is contaminated with oil. or If It is at al noisy In operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear),
Removal 3 Set the engine at TDC on No 1 cylinder
as
described in Section 2. 4 Unbolt and remove tho engine oil dipstick tube and remove It from the rubber gromme! in the oil pump housing (see illustrations), 5 Before removing the timing belt check rts tension by turning the belt through 90" with finger and thumb midway between u* injection pump and camshaft sprockets. This will give you an Idea of the tension to apply when refitting, assuming the tension is already correct. Also note the position of the tensions pulley as a reference mark. 6 Release tho nut on the timing bea tensioner, move the tensioner pulley away from the belt and retlghten the nut to hold the pulley in the retracted position. 7 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white paint or chalk to mark the direction of rotation on the belt (if markings do not already exist), then slip the belt off the camshaft, crankshaft and injection pump sprockets, and the idler and tensioner pulleys. Caution: If the belt appears to be In good condition and can be re-used, it fs essential that It Is refitted the same
wsy
round, otherwise accelerated wear will result, leading fo premature failure. 8 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination. Pay particular attention to the roots of the teeth. Renew it if there is the slightest doutt about its condition. If the engine is undergoing an overhaul, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of its apparent conditio*. The cost of a new belt Is nothing compa/ed with the cost of repairs, should the belt freak in service. If signs of oil contamination art found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify It. Wash down the engine timing baft area and all related components, to remove
sd
traces of oil.
Refitting 9 Before refitting, thoroughly clean the tknmg belt sprockets. Check that the tensioner and idler pulleys rotate freely, without any sign ol roughness. If necessary, renew them as described in Section 5. 10 Ensure that the crankshaft, camshaft and injection pump sprockets are still at their TDC positions as described In Section 2. 11 Engage the timing belt with the crankshaft sprocket, then locate it around the idler pufiey and onto the Injection pump sprocket making sure that it is kept taught. Continue to locate! around the camshaft sprocket and finally around Ihe tensioner pulley (see Illustration) Ensure the belt teeth seat correctly on Ihe sprockets.

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
2C*11

C«/ffor>: Where applicable observe the drnctbn of rotation markings on the belt. 12 Tension the timing belt by turning the eccentrically-mounted tensioner clockwise: two ities are provided in the side of the tensioner ftb for this purpose - a pair of sturdy right-ircfed circiip pliers can be used to do this or iftemaiively two bolts and a long screwdriver
may be
used. Fiat use a special tensioner tool
located in
the hotos - this consists of a calibrated rod
and
weight. The weight is positioned 60 mm tog the rod to provide the correct tension to the belt, then the tensioner nul is tightened. Tgttn tho tensioner nut to the specified torque
(see
illustrations) 13
If the
tensioner tool Is not available, test the wsicn by grasping the timing belt between the li^er and thumb midway between the camshaft and injection pump pulleys, and Using il through 90" (see paragraph S).
Caution: The above procedure serves only as a rough guide to setting the belt tension. The tension must be checked accurately by a Fiat dealer using the spec/a/ fens/oner tool, at the earliest opportunity. 14 Tum the engine two complete turns clockwise, check that all the timing marks are still aligned then recheck the timing belt tension. If necessary carry out the tensioning procedure again, 15 Refit the components disturbed for access, using the reverse of the removal procedure and bearing In mind the following points: a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque, where given. b) Refit the auxiliary dnvebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18.
5 Timing belt tensioner ^ and sprockets - removal, ^ inspection and refitting ^
1 Follow the procedure for removing the timing belt In Section 4, however it is not necessary to completely remove the belt from the timing sprockets provided it is kept fully engaged with them. 2 Unscrew the nut and slide the tensioner off the mounting stud (see illustrations).
Inspection 3 Wipe the tensioner clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the tensioner pulley on its hub by hand. Stiff movemeni or excessive freeplay Is an Indication of severe wean the tensioner is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed, Refitting 4 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and screw on the nut. 5 Refer to Section 4 and refit the timing belt.
Timing belt idler pulley
Removal 6 Remove Ihe timing belt as described In Section 4. 7 Unscrew the mounting bolt and remove the idler pulley from the front of the cylinder block (see illustration). Inspection 8 Wipe the idler clean but do not use solvents that may contaminate the bearings. Spin the idler pulley on Its hub by hand. Stiff movement or excessive freeplay Is an Indication of severe wear; the Idler is not a serviceable component, and should be renewed. Refitting 9 Refit the idler to the front of the block and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see illustration). 10 Refer to Section 4 and refit the liming belt.
Timing belt tensioner
Removal
5.9 Tightening the idler pulley mounting bolt