engine coolant FIAT PUNTO 1999 176 / 1.G Owner's Guide

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
2C*11

9.15 Short coolant hose from the cylinder head outlet to the coolant pump 19 Where applicable, unscrew the bolts retaining the bracket to the turbocharger and thecrankcase (see illustration). 20 Unscrew the nut and slide the timing belt tensioner off Its stud.
9,17 Disconnecting the return hose from the thermostat housing
9.18a Metal coolant rotum pipe mounting bolt
injection pump
9.16a Disconnecting the oil delivery pipe from the turbocharger 21 Release the fuel supply and return hoses from the supports on the cylinder head. 22 Unscrew the union bolt and disconnect the fuel supply hose from the filter on the bulkhead. 23 Loosen the clip and disconnect the fuel return hose from the injection pump. 24 Unscrew Ihe union nuts while holding insert fiats, and disconnect the fuel supply lines from the Injectors and injection pump (soo illustration). Cover tho apertures to prevent dust entry. 25 Disconnect the glow plug supply wiring from the terminal on No 4 glow plug heater on the front left-hand side of the engine. 26 Disconnect the wiring from the maximum coolant temperature connector on the front of the engine. 27 Disconnect the fuel return line from No 1 Injector.
9.18b Removing the metal coolant return pipe from the coolant pump
9.31a Bolts securing the inner timing cover to the cyllndor head
9.16b Oil delivery pipe location on the crankcase 28 Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust front pipe to the exhaust manifold. Where necessary, use a screwdriver to bend back the lock tabs. Lower the front pipe and recover the gasket. 29 Where applicable, remove the clip and disconnect the oil return hose from the turbocharger to the sump. 30 Remove the camshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 31 Unscrew the bolts securing the timing belt inner cover to the cylinder head and injection pump bracket, then remove the inner cover (see illustrations). 32 Unbolt and remove the camshaft cover and recover the gasket. Note the location of the support brackets. 33 Unscrew and remove the bolts and washers located on the front of the cylinder head, alongside the injectors (see illustration),
9.19 Unbolt the bracket retaining the turbocharger and manifold to the crankcase
9.31b Removing the bolts securing the Inner timing cover to the injection pump/oll Alter bracket

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11

r
<3^
9.46a The locating dowel in the cylinder block 43 It is possible for the ptston crowns to stnke and damage the valve heads, if the camshaft is rotated v/ith the timing belt removed and the crankshaft set to TDC. For this reason, the crankshaft must be set to a position other than TDC on No t cylinder before the cylinder head is refitted. Use a socket on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt to turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation, until all four pistons are positioned Halfway down their bores, v/ith No 1 piston on lis upstroke - approximately 90° before TDC.
Refitting 44 If the manifolds are being refitted before refitting the cylinder head proceed as follows, otherwise fit the manifolds later when the head is refitted. Ensure thai the inlet and exhaust manifold mating surfaces are completely clean, then locale the new gasket on the studs. 45 Locate the inlet and exhaust manifolds together with the turbocharger, where applicable, on the studs. Refit the nuts and washers and tighten to the specified torque.
sequence
f^/f
9.52b Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 and Stage 2 settings using a torque wrench
on the block 46 Lay the new head gasket on the cylinder block engaging it with the locating dowel. The word ALTO must be uppermost (see illustrations). 47 As a means of locating Ihe cylinder head accurately, cut the heads from two of the old cylinder head bolts. Cut a slot, big enough for a screwdriver blade, in the end of each bolt. These can be used as alignment dowels to assist in cylinder head refitting, however If the head is being refitted without the manifolds it is not necessary to take this action. 48 With the help of an assistant, place the cylinder head assembly centrally on the cylinder block ensuring thai the locating dowels engage with Ihe holes in the cylinder head. Check that the head gasket Is correctly seatod before allowing the full weight of the cylinder head to rest on it. 49 Where necessary, unscrew the home-made alignment dowels, using a flat bladed screwdriver. 50 The oyllnder head bolt threads must be clean. Dip the bolts in engine oil. and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. 51 Carefully enter each bolt with washer into its relevant hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by hand only, until finger-tight. 52 Working progressively and In the sequence shown, first tighten the cylinder head bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench and suitable socket (see illustrations). Go round again, in the sequence shown, and tighten the bolls to the Stage 2 torque setting. 53 Once all the bolts have been tightened to their Stage 2 setting, working again in the
bolts to the Stage 3 and Stage 4 settings
9.46c The word ALTO must be uppermost
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar (see illustration). It Is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used during this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and cylinder head prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check tho bolt has been rotated through the correct angle during tightening. Repeat for the Stage 4 setting. 54 Refit the cylinder head front retaining bolts and tighten lo the specified torque. 55 Refit the camshaft cover together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts progressively to the specified torque. 56 The remaining procedure is a reversal of the removal procedure noting the following points. a) Tighten all nut and bolts to the specified torque where given. b) When refitting the metal coolant pipe to the coolant pump, use a new O-ring (see illustration). cj Refit the timing belt with reference to Section 4. d) Use a new exhaust front pipe gasket. e) Refit the auxiliary dhvebeltfs) as described in Chapter 1B. f) Refer to Chapter 4C when refitting the
air
cleaner and air duct. g) Refill the cooling system and fill the engine with new oil with reference to Chapter 1B. 57 Refer to Chapter 20 when starting the engine for the first time.
9.56 Use a new O-ring on the coolant pipe before refitting it to the pump

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1 General information
Included In (his Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for tho cylinder head, cylinder block/crankca9e and all other engine internal components. The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine Internal components. After Section 5, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For Information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A, 8 or C of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 5. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A. B or C that are no longer relevant onca the engine has been removed from ihe car.
2 Engine overhaul -general information
1 It Is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of lectors must be considered. 2 High mileage Is not necessarily an Indication that an overhaul Is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing Is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, should give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early In its life. 3 Excessive oil consumption Is an Indication that piston rings, vaivo seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn Perform a compression test, as described In Parts A or B (petrol engines) or C (diesel engines) of this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of the problem. 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted In place of the oil pressure switch. If it Is extremely low. the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil pump, are probably worn out. 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear noise, and high fuel consumption may also point to Ihe need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a complete service does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul involves restoring ell Internal parts to the specification of a new engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are rebored (where applicable), the pistons and the piston rings are renewed. New main and big-end bearings are generally fitted; If necessary, the crankshaft may be reground. to restore the journals. 7 The valves are also servrced as well, since they are usually In less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should be renewed when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. A/so. it Is a good Idea to renew the ofI pump whenever the engine i$ overhauled.
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through tho entire procedure, to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult If you follow carefully all of the instructions, have the necessary tools and equipment, and pay close attention to all specifications. It can, however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially If pans must be taken to an engineering wo'kd for repair or reconditioning.
9 Check on the availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand lools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required (or Inspecting parts to determine if they must be renewed. Often the engineering works will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and renewal, Note: Always wait unt'l the engine has been completely dismantled, and until all components (especially the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an engineering works. The condition of these components will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine, or to buy a reconditioned unit. Do not. fh ere tore, purchase parts or have overhaul work done on other components until they have been thoroughly Inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine, everything must be assembled wilh care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Engine and transmission removal -methods
and
precautions
1 If you have decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken. 2 Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage Is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface Is required. 3 Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure wilt help keep tools clean and organised. 4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated In excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission, Safety Ib of primary Importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car. 5 If this is Ihe first time you have removed
an
engine, an assistant Bhould Ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of Ihe vehicle. 6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and Installation safely and wilh relative ease On addition to an engine hoist) Is as follows: a heavy duly trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in the reference section of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spitted oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it In advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.
7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a while. An engineering works will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish without special equipment. These places often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consul! them before removing the engine, in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work, 9 Always be extremely careful when removing and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead and take your time, and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully.

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Engine and transmission -removal, separation, connection and refitting
Note: The engine Is lowered from the engine compartment as a complete unit with the transmission; tho two are then separated for overhaul.
Removal 1 Remove the bonnet and disconnect the washer tubing as described in Chapter 11 (see illustrations). 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. In order to remove tne engine/transmission assembly in an upright position from under the vehicle, there must be a minimum clearance of 660 mm between the floor and the front crossmember. Additional height Is necessary if the assembly is to be lowered onto a trolley. 3 Where fitted, unbolt and remove the engine compartment lower cover. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 5 Dram the engine oil. transmission oil/fluid and coolant with reference to Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A). 7 On manual transmission models with a cable dutch, disconnect the clutch cable from the transmission (refer to Chapter 6). On manual transmission models with a hydraulic clutch unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the top of the transmission then fit a cable-tie around it to prevent the piston coming out (see Illustration). Position the cylinder to one side. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth lead from the transmission (see illustration). Petrol engines 9 Unbolt and remove the battery tray. 10 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch. 11 On manual transmission models disconnect the reverse Inhibition cable from the transmission then disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 12 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed In Chapter 4A or 4B. 13 On automatic transmission models disconnect the kickdown cable and gear selector cable as described in Chapter 7B. Also disconnect the wiring for the electro-magnetic clutch. 14 Unbolt and remove the cover from the bulkhead then disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. 15 Disconnect the remaining wiring at the bulkhead and release the fuse holders at the mounting. 16 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold, and also disconnect the wiring connector located next to it.
4.1a Unscrewing the bonnet hinge bolts
17 Unscrewthenutsandseparatetheengine wiring harness lead from the battery positive cable terminal. 18 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the engine as described in Chapter 4A or 4B, 19 Loosen the clip and disconnect the radiator top hose from the elbow on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Similarly disconnect the bottom hose. On 16-valve models, remove the radiator electric cooling fan as described in Chapter 3. 20 Identify the hoses connected to the throttle housing, then disconnect them. 21 Identify the coolant heater hoses on the bulkhead for position, then loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses. 22 Loosen the clip and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the Inlet manifold. Where applicable, disconnect the remaining emission control system vacuum hoses from the Inlet manifold after Identifying their locations to aid refitting. 23 Disconnect tho fuel supply and return hoses from the throttle housing. 24 Release the connector from the ignition/fuel ECU located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment. 25 Unscrew the nut and detach the earth cable from its location near the ECU. 26 Disconnect the diagnostic connector located near the ECU. 27 On models fitted with power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and unbolt the power steering pump from the front of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie It to one side so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. On
4.1b Disconnecting the washer tubing
models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position it clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refngerant pipes/hoses. 26 On manual transmission models pull out the retaining plate and disconnect the gear selector cable from the lever on the transmission. 29 Unscrew the nuts retaining the track rod ends on the swivel hubs and use a balljoint separator tool to disconnect them. 30 Release the flexible brake fluid hoses and ABS system sensor wrring from the front suspension struts. 31 On manual transmission models, unscrew the nuts from the outer ends of each driveshaft. To prevent the hubs from turning either have an assistant depress the brake pedal, or temporarily Insert two wheel bolts and use a lever to hold the hub. 32 On automatic transmission models use a suitable drift to drive out Ihe roll pins securing 2D the inner ends of the drlveshafts to tho trans-mission output stubs. Turn the driveshalts as necossary to access the roll pins . 33 Unscrew the two bolts securing the right-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then move the hub assembly outwards. On manual transmission models release the outer end of the driveshaft from the hub assembly - on automatic transmission models slide the inner end of the driveshaft off the final drive output stub. Take care not to strain the flexible brake hose while doing this. Move the driveshaft to one side thon temporanly refit the hub assembly to the strut. On manual transmission models, make
^ - / //
4.7 Fit a cable tie around the dutch slave cylinder to prevent the piston coming out 4.8 Disconnecting the earth lead from the transmission

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.44a Disconnecting tho radiator top hose from the thermostat housing
4.45b ... and expansion tank hose
lofi-nand side of the cylinder head, From the top ot the radiator and from the expansion tank (see Illustrations). 46 Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from the elbow on the cylinder head.
4.49e ... and the adjustment lockbolt...
4.44b Disconnecting the heater hose st the engine
4.49a Remove the front bracket bolt...
47 On models with a speedometer cable, disconnect the cable from the transmission. 48 On models with an electronic speedometer, if necessary disconnect the winng connector on the support bracket. The cable may be left
4.49f ... and tie the power steering pump to the bulkhead
. m " • V;
<4
4.45a Disconnecting the heater return hose...
4.49b ... the belt adjustment bolt...
attached if Ihe transmission Is not being detached from the engine. 49 On models fitted with power steering, unbolt the power steering pump from the rear right-hand side of the engine without disconnecting the hydraulic fluid lines then tie it to one side on the bulkhead so that it will not obstruct the removal of the engine. To do (his first remove the front bracket bolt, remove the belt adjustment bolt, remove the rear through-bolt, lift away the cover and remove the adjustment lockbolt (see illustrations). On models with air conditioning, similarly unbolt the air conditioning compressor and position It clear of the engine. Do not disconnect the air conditioning refrigerant pipes/hoses. 50 Disconnect the coolant purge hoses from the top of the radiator and expansion tank (seo illustrations). 51 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the injection pump (see Chapter 4Q.
4.50a Disconnecting the coolant purge hoses from the radiator...

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.50b ... and expansion tank 4.S2 Disconnecting the radiator coolant temperature sensor wiring plug
4.53b One of tho wheel arch liner retaining screws is hidden in a recess 52 On the radiator cooling fan housing, disconnect the wiring plug for tho coolant temperature sensor (see illustration). 53 Unscrew the four front screws on each side retaining the wheel arch liners in order to
4.53c Bolt securing the front bumper to the valance access the front bumper mounting bolts • one of lite screws is hidden in a recess. Pull back the liners and use an extension and socket to unscrew the bolts securing the front bumper to tho valance (see illustrations).
4.55 Releasing the retaining clips from the rear of tho indicator lights 4.56a Side bumper retaining screw
4.56b Centre bumper retaining screw 4.57a Radiator lower mounting bracket bolt
4.54 One of the front bumper lower retaining screws 54 Unscrew and remove the front bumper lower retaining screws (see Illustration). 55 From inside the engine compartment, disconnect the wiring from the rear of the Indicator lights and release the retaining clips (see illustration). 56 Unscrew the upper retaining screws and withdraw the front bumper from the body (see Illustrations). 57 Unscrew the bolts socunng the radiator lower mounting bracket to the body then prise the bracket from the rubbers on the bottom ol the radiator (see Illustrations). 58 Unscrew the upper mounting bolt securing the engine oil cooler then lower the cooler and support on an axle stand (see illustrotion). Take care not to damage the hoses. 59 Support the radiator then unscrew the radiator upper mounting bolts, and remove the radiator from the vehicle (see illustrations).
4.57b Removing the bracket from the rubbers on the bottom of the radiator

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
05 Remove the brush holder assembly from the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B, Section 4. The brushes bear on the slip rings at the rear of the electro-magnetic clutch housing and they may be damaged when the transmission is removed. 86 Unscrew and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts then carefully draw the transmission away from the engine, resting It securely on wooden blocks. Collect the locating dowels If they are loose enough to be extracted, 87 If the oil pump driveshaft remains engaged with the crankshaft, remove it and reert Into the transmission to protect It from damage.
Connection 86 If the engine and transmission have not been separated, go to paragraph 104. Manual transmission models 89 Smear a little high-melting-point grease
on
the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount as there Is the risk of contaminating the clutch friction plate. 90 Carefully offer up the transmission to the engine cylinder block, guiding the input shaft through the clutch friction plate. 91 Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts and
the
single nut. hand^jghtenlng 1hem to secure the transmission in position. Note: Do not hghten them to force the engine and transmission together. Ensure that the beilhousing and cylinder block mating faces will butt together evenly without obstruction, before finally tightening the bolts and nut securely. Automatic transmission models 92 Check that the oil pump driveshaft is correctly engaged with the oil pump in the transmission. 93 Carefully offer up the transmission to Ihe rear of the engine and insert the oil pump driveshaft In the centre of the electro-magnetic clutch housing. Locate the transmission on the locating dowels then Insert the bolts and tighten them securely. 94 Refit the brush holder assembly to the automatic transmission with reference to Chapter 7B, Section 4. Petrol engines 96 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. 96 Locate the support bracket on the lower cover, then insert the bolts hand-tight. Also Insert the bolts securing the bracket lo the rear of Ihe cylinder block. With all the bolts Inserted, tighten them securely. 97 Refit the earth leads and tighten the bolts. Diesel engines 98 Refit the rpm sensor and tighten the bolts. 99 Insert the Intermediate shaft through the bracket then locate the dust boot on it and insert the Inner end in the transmission.
100 Refit and tighten the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block. 101 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. Ail models 102 Refit the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 103 Refit the wiring harness to the components on the engine/transmission assembly making sure it is routed correctly.
Refitting 104 Locate the engine/transmission assembly beneath the engine compartment and attach the hoist to the lifting eyes. 105 Carefully lift the assembly up into the engine compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 106 Reconnect the left-hand engine/trans-mission mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 107 Reconnect Ihe right-hand engine mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 108 Working beneath the vehicle, refit the rear engine mounting and tighten the bolts. 109 Disconnect the hoist from the engine and transmission lifting eyes and remove the hoist from under the vehicle. 110 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the direct reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that alf sections of the wiring harness follow their original routing; use new cable-ties to secure the harness In position, keeping it away from sources
of
heat and abrasion. b) On vehicles with manual transmission check and if necessary adjust the gearchenge cable and rod with reference to Chapter 7A. c) On vehicles with automatic transmission use new ro//p/ns fo secure the driveshafts to the transmission output stubs. Also check and if necessary adjust the kickdown end selector cables with reference to Chapter 78. d) Ensure that afi hoses are correctly routed and are secured with the correct hose clips, where applicable. If the hose clips cannot be used again; proprietary worm drive clips should be fitted
In
their place. e) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades and quantities of oil (Chapter
1A
or 1B). g) Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt(s) wfth reference fo Chapter 1A or 1B. h) Check and If necessary adjust the accelerator cable with reference to Chapter
AA,
48 or
AC.
i) When the engine is started for the first time, check for
air,
coolant, lubricant and fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If
the
engine has been overhauled, read
the
notes In Section 13 before attempting to starlit.
5 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened Into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand Is not available, it Is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor, Be very careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all anclllarles must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will If you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components Include the following:
Petroi engines a) Power steering pump if removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator fmcluding mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter
SA).
c) The Ignition system and HT components including ail sensors, HT leads and
spark
plugs (Chapters 1A and
SB).
d) The fuel injection system components (Chapters A A and
AB).
e) All electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapters 4A, AB, SB). f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A, AB end
AD).
g) Engine oil dipstick and tube. h) Engine mountings (Chapter
2A).
i) Flywheef/driveptate (Chapter
2A).
j) Clutch components (Chapter
6)
- manual transmission. k) Electro-magnetic clutch components (Chapter 7B) - automatic transmission. I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).

Diesei engines a) Power steering pump //removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator (Including mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter 5A). c) The glow plugfpre-heatlng system components (Chapter
SC).
d) Ait fuel system components, including the fuel injection pump, all sensors and actuators (Chapter
AC).
e) The vacuum pump. f) Ail electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapter 4C and 5C). g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and, where applicable, the turbocharger (Chapter
AC
and 4D). h) The engine oil level dipstick and its tube. i) Engine mountings (Chapter
2C).

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
6.5s Prising out the feed stub of the camshaft lubricating pipe J) Flywheel (Chapter 2C). k) Clutch components (Chapter
6).
I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).
Note: When removing trie external components from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important during refitting. Note the fitted position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins, washers, bolts, and other small components. 4 If you are obtaining a short engine (the engine cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods, all fully assembled), then the cylinder head, sump, oil pump, timing belt (together with its tensloner and covers), coolant pump, thermostat housing, coolant outlet elbows, oil filter housing and where applicable oil cooler will also have to be removed. 5 If you are planning a full overhaul, the engine can be dismantled in the order given below: $) Ftywhaoi/drivoplate.
6.5d When removing the camshaft bearing caps, note the position of the (ong and short locating dowels
bearing/banjo union bolt b) Timing belt, sprockets, and tensioner. c) Inlet and exhaust manifolds. d) Cylinder head. e) Sump. f) Oil pump. g) Pistons and crankshaft.
6 Cylinder head - % dismantling, cleaning, inspection and reassembly ^
Note: Now and reconditioned cylinder heads are available from the manufacturer or engine overhaul specialists. Be aware that some specialist tools are required for the dismantling and inspection procedures, and new com-ponents may not be readily available. It may therefore be mors practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned head, rather than dismantle, inspect and recondition the original head.
Dismantling Note: On 8-valve petrol engines and diesel engines, the camshaft and cam followers are /oca fed In the cylinder head assembly and the relevant dismantling and reassembly procedures are contained in this Section. On 1$-valve petrol engines, the camshafts and cam followers are /oca fed In a separate housing (cylinder head extension) which is bo/fed fo the top of the cylinder head. All procedures relating to the camshafts and cam followers on 16-valve engines are therefore contained in Chapter 2B. Proceed fo paragraph 15 for cylinder head dismantling
6.8a Unscrew and remove the bolts from the thermostat housing, noting the location of the bracket
6.5c Removing the camshaft lubricating pipe procedures on /6-vafve engines, and ignore any references to camshafts, cam followers and oil seals in the paragraphs that follow. 1 Remove the cylinder head as described in Part A. B or C of this Chapter (as applicable). 2 If not already done, remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds with reference to the relevant Part of Chapter 4. Also remove the spark plugs, glow plugs and injectors as applicable. 3 Remove the camshaft sprocket with reference to Chapter 2A or 2C. Petrol engines 4 Mark the positions of the camshaft bearing caps, numbering them from the timing end. 5 Unbolt and remove the lubrication pipe (prise the oil feed stub out with a screwdriver). Unscrew the remaining bolts and take off the bearing caps (see illustrations). 6 Lift the camshaft carefully from the cylinder head, checking lhat the valve clearance shims and cam followers are not withdrawn by the adhesion of the oil (see Illustration). 7 Remove the shims and cam followers, but keep them In their originally fitted order. Diesel engines 8 Unbolt the thermostat housing and gasket, and vacuum pump from the left-hand end of the cylinder head. Also if necessary unbolt the coolant cover and gasket from the right-hand end of the head. Note the location of brackets (see illustrations) 9 Using a soft metal drift, carefully lap out the left-hand side mount and recover the gasket (soe illustrations). 10 At tho timing bait end of the cylinder head.
6.8b Removing the thermostat housing ... 6.6 Removing the camshaft

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
6.25 Checking the cylinder head for distortion 6.27 Checking the valve guides and valves for wear B.29a Diesel swirl chamber protrusion can be checked using a dial gauge...
scrape off the majority of the deposits with a blunt biade first, then use the wire brush. Caution: Do not erode the sealing surface ot the valve face. 23 Thoroughly clean the remainder of the components using solvent and allow them to dry completely. On 6-valve petrol and diesel engines, discard the oil seals, as new items must be fitted when the cylinder head is reassembled.
Inspection
Cylinder head 24 Inspect the head very carelully for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage, and other damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be obtained. 25 Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to check that the cylinder head gasket surface is not distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may
be
possible to have it machined, provided that Ihe cylinder head thickness is not excessively reduced. As no specifications as to permissible distortion limits or cylinder head thickness tolerances are given by ihe manufacturer, seek the advice of an engine overhaul specialist if distortion Is apparent. 26 Examine the valve seats In each of the combustion chambers, If they are severely pitted, cracked, or burned, they will need to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this can be removed by grinding-in the valve heads and seats with fine valve-grinding compound, as described below.
27 Check the valve guides for wear by inserting the relevant valve, and checking for side-to-side motion of the valve (see illustration) A very small amount of movement Is acceptable. If the movement seems excessive, remove the valve. Measure the valve stem diameter at several points, and renew the valve if it is worn. If the valve stem is not worn, the wear must be In the valve guide, and the guide must be renewed. The renewal of valve guides should be earned out by an engine overhaul specialist, who will have the necessary tools required. 26 If renewing the vaive guides, the valve seats should be re-cut or re-ground only after the new guides have been fitted. 29 On diesel engines, inspect the swirl chambers for burning or damage such as cracking. Smalt cracks in the chambers are acceptable: renewal of the chambers will only be required if chamber tracts are badly burned and disfigured, or if they are no longer a tight fit in the cylinder head. If there is any doubt as to the swirl chamber condition, seek the advice of a Flat dealer or a suitable repairer who specialises in diesel engines. Swirl chamber renewal should be entrusted to a specialist. Using a dial test indicator, check that the difference between the swirl chamber and the cylinder head surface is within the limits given in Ihe Specifications. Alternatively feeler blades and a straight-edge may bo used (see illustrations). Zero the dial test indicator on the gaskel surface of tho cylinder head, then measure the protrusion of the swirl
chamber, if the protrusion is not within the specified limits, the advice of a Fiat dealer or suitable repairer who specialises in diesel engines should be sought. Camshaft 30 Inspect the camshaft for wear on the surfaces of the lobes and journals. Normally their surfaces should be smooth and have a dull shine: look for scoring and pitting. Accelerated wear will occur once the hardened exterior of the camshaft has been damaged. 31 Examine the bearing cap and journal surfaces for signs of wear. 32 To measure the camshaft endfloat, temporanly refit the camshaft then push the camshaft lo one end of the cylinder head as far as It will travel. Attach a dial test indicator to the cylinder head and zero it, then push the camshaft as far as It will go to the other end of the cylinder head and record the gauge reading. Verify the reading by pushing the camshaft back to its original position and checking that the gauge indicates zero again (see Illustration). 33 The camshaft bearing running clearance may be checked using Plastigauge as described later in this Chapter. 34 Where the camshaft and bearings are worn excessively consider renewing the complete cylinder head together with camshaft and cam followers. A reconditioned head may be available from ongine repairers. Wear of cam followers may be checked using a micrometer (see illustration).
6.29b ... or feeler blades 6.32 Chocking the camshaft endfloat with a dial gauge 6.34 Checking the wear of the cam followers

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Valves and associated components 35 Examine the head of each vaive for pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear. Check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check lor any obvious indication that it Is bent. Look tor pits or excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 36 if the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the vaive stem diameter at several points using a micrometer. Any significant difference in the readings obtained Indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 37 If the valves are In satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-tight seal. If the seat is only tightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should nor be used, unless a seat is badly bumed or deeply pitted, If this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be Inspected by an expert, to decldo whether seat re-cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert (where possible) is required. 38 Valve grinding Is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on blocks on a bench. 39 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-gnndtng compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind
6.48 Compressing the vaive spring and fitting the split collets
them
the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute tho grinding compound (see Illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation 40 If coarse grinding compound Is being used, v/ork only until a dull, matt even surface Is produced on both the valve seal and the valve, then wipe off tho used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring ol light grey malt finish Is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind-In the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 41 When all the valves have been ground-m, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent, before reassembling the cylinder head. 42 Examine the valve springs for signs of damage ano discoloration, If possible compare the length of the springs with new ones and renew them if necessary. 43 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check ft tor squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost mar tension, obtain a complete new set of springs. It Is normal to renew the valve springs as a matter of course if a major overhaul is being earned out. 44 Renew (he valve stem oil seals regardless of their apparent condition.
Reassembly 45 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and insert the valves into their original locations
6.53 Tightening the camshaft bearing cap nuts (diesel engines)
6.46 Using a socket to press the valve stem seals onto the guides
(see illustration). If new valves are being fitted, insert them Into the locations to which they have been ground. 46 Refit the spring sea( then, working on the first valve, dip the new valve stem sesl in fresh engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve and onto the guide. Take care not to damage the seal as it Is passed over the valve stem. Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press the seal firmly onto the guide (sea Illustration). 47 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat, then refit the spring retainer. 48 Compress the valve spring, and locate the split collets in the recess in the valve stem. Release the compressor, then repeat the procedure on the remaining valves (see illustration)
Use a dab o) grease to hold Uiejitts* the collets In position on the HlNT valve stem while the spring compressor is released.
49 With ail the valves Installed, place the cylinder head on blocks on the bench and, using a hammer and Interposed block ol wood, top the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 50 On diesel engines, refit the swirl chambers together with their washers and tighten the retaining collars to the specified torque. 51 Oil the cam followers and locate them In their correct positions in the cylinder head. Locate the shims In the cam followers making sure they are in their original positions. 52 Oil the journals then locate the camshaft m the cylinder head with the cam lobes of No 1 cylinder facing upwards (ie No 1 cylinder at TDC). 53 Refit the bearing caps In their correct positions and progressively tighten the nuts/bolts to the specified torque (sea illustration). On petrol engines locate the lubrication pipe on Ihe head and press in the oil feed stub before refitting the bolts. 54 On diesel engines fit a new oil sea) to the right-hand side mount, then refit both side mounts together with new gaskets, Tighten the right-hand mount bolts. Also refit the coolant cover and thermostat housing together with new gaskets (see illustrations).