torque FIAT PUNTO 1999 176 / 1.G Service Manual

4D«1
Chapter 4 Part D:
Exhaust and emission control systems
Contents
Catalytic converter - general Information and precautions 7 Crankcase emission system • general information 3 Evaporative loss emission control system • information and component renewal 2
Degrees of difficulty
Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting 5 Exhaust system - general information and component renewal .... 6 General information 1 Lambda oxygen sensor - removal and refitting 4

Easy, suitable
tor novice with fittie ^
1 experience
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with ^ some experience ^
Fairiy dfficult, lb suitable for competent ^ DIY mechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY ^ mechanic
Very difficult, ^ suitable far expert DIY or professional
Specifications
Torque wrench settings Exhaust down pipe to manifold Exhaust manifold Exhaust system mounting Exhaust to catalytic converter: M8 M10x1.25
Nm Ibfft 24 18 24 18 27 20
24 18 40 30 53 39
1 General information
Emission control systems All petrol engine models use unleaded petrol and are controlled by engine management systems that are 'tuned' to give the best compromise between driveability. luel consumption and exhaust emission production. In addition, a number of systems are fitted that help to minimise other harmful emissions: a crankcase emission-control system (petrol models only) that reduces the release of pollutants from the crankcase, an evaporative loss emission control system (petrol models only) to reduce the release of hydrocarbons from the fuel tank, a catalytic converter (petrol and diesel models) to reduce exhaust gas pollutants, and an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system (turbo diesel models only) to reduce exhaust emissions. Crankcase emission control To reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase Into the atmosphere, the engine is sealed and the blow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn from inside the crankcase, through a flame trap.
into the inlet tract to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. Under conditions of high manifold depression (idling, deceleration) the gases will by sucked positively out of the crankcase. Under conditions of low manifold depression (acceleration, full-throttle running) ihe gases are forced out of the crankcase by the (relatively) higher crankcase pressure: if the engine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure (due to increased blow-by) will cause some of the flow to return under all manifold conditions. Exhaust emission control -petrol models To minimise the amount of pollutants which escape Into the atmosphere, a catalytic converter is fitted In the exhaust system. The fuel system is of the closed-loop type, in which a Lambda (or oxygen) sensor In the exhaust system provides the engine management system ECU with constant feedback, enabling the ECU to adjust the air/fuel mixture to optimise combustion. The Lambda sensor has a heating element built-in that Is controlled by the ECU through the Lambda sensor relay to quickly bring the sensor's tip to Its optimum operating temperature. The sensor's tip Is sensitive to oxygen and relays a voltage signal to the ECU
that varies according on the amount of oxygen In the exhaust gas. If the inlet air/fuel mixture is too rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygen so the sensor sends a low-voltage signal, the voltage rising as the mixture weakens and the amount of oxygen rises In the exhaust gases. Peak conversion efficiency of all major pollutants occurs if the inlet air/fuel mixture Is maintained at the chemlcally-con*ect ratio for the complete combustion of petrol of 14.7 parts (by weight) of air to
1
part of fuel (the stoichiometric ratio). The sensor output voltage alters in a large step at this point, the ECU using the signal change as a reference point and correcting the Inlet air/fuel mixture accordingly by altering the fuel Injector pulse width. Exhaust emission control -diesel models An oxidation catalyst is fitted in the exhaust system of all diesel engine models. This has the effect of removing a large proportion of the gaseous hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide and particulates present in the exhaust gas. An Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Is fitted to all turbo diesel engine models. This reduces the level of nitrogen oxides produced during combustion by Introducing a proportion of the exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold, under certain engine operating

4D*2 Exhaust and emission control systems
2.2 Charcoal canister location behind tho right-hand headlight
conditions, via a plunger valve, The system is controlled electronically by means of an emissions system control unit. Evaporative emission control • petrol models To minimise the escape of unburned hydrocarbons Into the atmosphere, an evaporallve loss emission control system is fitted to petrol models, The fuel tank filler cap Is sealed and a charcoal canister is mounted underneath the right-hand headlamp to collect the petrol vapours released from the fuel contained In the fuel tank. It stores them until they can be drawn from the canister (under the control of the fuel Injection/ignition system ECU) via the purge valve into the Inlet tract, where they are then burned by the engine during normal combustion. To ensure thai the engine runs correctly when it is cold and/or idling and to protect the catalytic converter from the effects of an over-rich mixture, the purge control valve is not opened by the ECU until the engine has warmed up, and the engine is under load; the valve solenoid is then modulated on and off to allow the stored vapour to pass into the inlet tract.
Exhaust systems The exhaust system comprises the exhaust manifold, an exhaust downpipe, • catalytic convorter, an intermediate pipe with silencer, and a tailpipe with silencer, On turbo diesel models the turbocharger is fitted between ihe exhaust manifold and the downpipe.
5.5a On 16-valve engines, undo the bolts and remove the manifold heat shield...
2 Evaporative loss emission ^ control system - information and component renewal ^
Information 1 The evaporative loss omission control system consists of the control solenoid (or purge valve), the activated charcoal filter canister and a series of connecting vacuum hoses. 2 The control solenoid and charcoal canister are both mounted on the right-hand side of the engine compartment behind the headlight (see illustration).
Component renewal
Control solenoid 3 With the bonnet open, disconnect the hoses from the control solenoid on the top of the charcoal canister. 4 Disconnect the wiring and remove the solenoid. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Charcoal canister 6 Remove Ihe control solenoid as desenbed previously. 7 Disconnect Ihe fuel tonk hose from the canister 8 Detach the mounting and remove the canister. 9 Refitting Is a reversal of removal. Multifunction valve 10 The multifunction valve >s mounted on top of the luel tank. Removal and refitting is similar to that described for the tank sender gauge/pump (refer to Chapter 4A or 4B).
3 Crankcase emission system - general information
The crankcase emission control system consists of a hose from the camshaft cover to the air cloanor with a branch to Ihe throttle body. The main hose Incorporates a flame trap and the Inlet to the throttle body incorporates a calibrated hole.
5.5b ... then remove the bracket
The system requires no attention other than to check at regular intervals that tho hoses are free of blockages and undamaged.
4 Lambda oxygen sensor -removal and refitting &
Note: 7?5e Lambda oxygen sensor is doiicata and will not work if it is dropped or knocked, it its power supply is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are used on it.
Removal 1 The sensor Is threaded Into the exhaust front downpipe. Access if best gained Irom underneath the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then )ack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector located on the front of the engine. 3 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the sensor, taking care to avoid damaging the sensor probe as it Is removed- Note: As a flying lead remains connected to the sensor after it has been disconnected, if the correct spanner is not available, a slotted socket
will
be required to remove the sensor.
Refitting A Apply a little anti-selze grease to (he sensor threads • avoid contaminating the probe tip. 5 Refit the sensor to the downpipe. tightening it to the correct torque. Reconnect the wiring. 6 Lower the vohicle to the ground.
5 Exhaust manifold - % removal and refitting jk
Petrol models
Removal 1 On 1242 cc (16-valve) engines, remove tho air cleaner and inlet system components as described in Chapter 48. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 3 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring or alternatively romovo Ihe sensor completely. 4 Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the exhaust downpipo from Ihe exhaust manifold flange. Recover the gasket. 5 On 1242 cc (16-valve) engines, undo the bolts and remove the manifold heat shield, then remove the bracket at the timing belt end of the manifold (seo Illustrations). 6 Unscrew the mounting nuts, remove the washers, and recover any additional brackets fitted over the studs, noting their locations. Withdraw the manifold from the studs on the cylinder head. 7 Recover the gaskets from Ihe studs.

4D*3 Exhaust and emission control systems
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure but fit new gaskets. Tighten the nuts lo the specified torque.
Diesel models Note: On diesel models the inlet and exhaust
manifolds
are located on the rear of the engine
end
share the same securing nuts and gasket. Removal 8 Remove the inlet manifold as described In Part
C
of this Chapter. 10 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up lite front of tho car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 11 Straighten the tab washers (where fitted), then unscrew and remove the exhaust downpipe retaining nuts. Detach the downpipe from the manifold/turbocharger. Suitably support the downpipe. 12 Undo the manifold-to-cylinder head securing nuts and withdraw the manifold (see Illustration). 13 Separate the turbocharger from the manifold with reference to Chapter 4C. 14 Remove the gasket and clean the mating
(aces
of the manifold, cylinder head and down-pipe flange (see illustration). The gasket must
be
renewed when refitting the manifold, Refitting
15 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure but fit a new gasket. Tighten the retaining nuts to the specified torque and where necessary lock them by bending over
the
tocktabs.
6 Exhaust system - % general information and ^ component renewal
Genera/ Information 1 A three section exhaust system is fitted consisting of a twin-branch front downpipe, a catalytic converter, and a tailpipe with two silencers. The downpipe-to-manifold and downpipe-to-catalytic converter joints are both of flange and gasket type, whereas the remaining joint Is of the sleeve type secured
witn
a clamp ring (see illustration). 2 The system is suspended throughout its entire length by rubber mountings.
Removal 3 Each exhaust section can be removed individually or, alternatively, the complete system can be removed as a unit. Where separation of the rear sleeve Joint is necessary, it may be more practical to remove
the
entire system rather than try and separate
the Joint
In position. 4 To remove the system or part of the system, first jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and nhlcle support), Alternatively position the
vehicle
over an inspection pit or on car ramps.
5.12 Removing the exhaust manifold (diesel engine) Downpipe 5 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. Where applicable on petrol models, refer to Section 4 and remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe. 6 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to tha catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 7 Bend back the locktabs (where fitted) then unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold/turbocharger. and lower the downpipe, Recover the gasket. Catalytic converter
8 Support the tailpipe section of the exhaust using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 9 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to the catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 10 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the converter from the tailpipe section. 11 Release the mounting rubber and remove the converter from under the vehicle. Tailpipe and silencers 12 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 13 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the catalytic converter from the tailpipe section. 14 Release the tailpipe section from its mounting rubbers and remove from under the vehicle. Complete system 15 Disconnect the downpipe from the ex-haust manifold as described in paragraph 7.
6.1 Exhaust clamp ring securing the tailpipe to the front exhaust system
5.14 Removing the oxhaust manifold gasket (diesel engine) 16 With the aid of an assistant, free the system from all its mounting rubbers and manoeuvre it out from underneath the vehicle. Heatshield 17 The heatshield is secured to the underbody by bolts and Is easily removed once the exhaust system has been removed.
Refitting 18 Each section is refitted by a reverse of the removal sequence, noting the following points. a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion have been removed from the flanges and renew ail necessary gaskets. b) Inspect the rubber mountings for signs of damage or deterioru tion and renew
as
necessary. c) Before refitting the tailpipe joint, smear some exhaust system jointing paste to the joint mating surfaces to ensure an air-tight seal. Tighten the clamp bolt. d) Prior to fully tightening the rear joint damp, ensure that all rubber mountings are correctly /ocafed and that there is adequate clearance between the exhaust system and vehicle underbody.
7 Catalytic converter -general information and precautions
The catalytic converter is a reliable and simple device which needs no maintenance In itself, but there are some facts of which an owner should be aware if the converter is to function properly for its full service life.
Petrol models a) DO NOT use leaded petrot In a car equipped with a catalytic converter - Ihe lead will coat the precious metals, redudng their converting efficiency
and
will eventually destroy the converter. b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems well-maintained in accordance with the manufacturer's schedule. c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the car at all (or at least as little
as
possible) until the fault is cured.

5A»1
Chapters Part A:
Starting and charging systems
Contents
Alternator - brush holder/regulator module renewal 6 Alternator/charging system • testing in vehicle 4 Alternator • removal and refitting 5 Auxiliary drivebelt • removal, refitting and adjustment See Chapter 1A or 1B Battery • condition check See Weekly Checks Battery • removal and refitting 3
Battery - testing and charging 2 Electrical fault finding • general Information See Chapter 12 General Information and precautions 1 Starter motor • removal and refitting 8 Starter motor - testing and overhaul 9 Starting system - testing 7
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for & novice with Tittle jg experience ^
Fairly easy, suitable ^ for beginner with some experience 3J
Fairly tfifftait, J^ sutable for competent ^ DIYmechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced D!Y mechanic ^
Verydtfficult, jk stitable far expert DfY X or professional ^
Specifications
General System type 12 volt, negative earth
Starter motor Type: Petrol engines Magneti-Marelli pre-engaged Diesel engines Bosch pre-engaged with reduction gear Output: 5A Petrol engines 0.8 kW (1108 cc) or 0.9 kW (1242 cc) Diesel engines 1.7 kW
Battery Capacity: Petrol engines 32 to 50 amp/hr Diesel engines 60 amp/hr Charge condition: Poor 12.5 volts Normal 12.6 volts Good 12.7 volts
Alternator Type Magneti-Marelli Output 65 to 85 amp
Torque wrench settings Nm ibt ft Alternator 60 44 Battery tray 29 21 Oil pressure switch: Petrol engine 32 24 Diesel engine 37 27

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
5.9a Unbolting the alternator upper bracket from the rear of the coolant pump
fl Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment locknut then unscrew the adjustment bolt and swivel the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebefi may be slipped off the alternator pulley. 9 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts and withdraw the alternator Irom the engine compartment. If preferred the upper alternator bracket may bo unbolted from the rear of the coolant pump {see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal ot removal. Refer to Chapter tA or 1B as applicable for details of tensioning the auxiliary drivebeit. On completion lighten the pivot and adjustment botts/nut to the specified torque.
6 Alternator -brush holder/regulator module renewal
%
1 Remove the alternator as described in Section 5. 2 Extract the two small bolts and withdraw the brush box. Note the small plastic grille on the Marelli alternator (see illustrations), 3 Using a steol rule chock the length of the brushes. If less than 5.0 mm the complete brush holder assembly should be renewed. Note: On Bosch alternators it may be possible to obtain the brushes separate//, in which case the brush ieads should be unsoldered
5.9b Removing the pivot bolt and alternator from the engine
from ihe terminals and the new brush leads soldered onto the terminals. 4 Check the slip rings for excessive wear and clean them with a rag soaked in fuel. 5 Pit the new holder using a reversal of the removal procedure but make sure that each brush moves freely.
7 Starting system • & testing
Note: Refer to Ihe precautions given In Safety firstI and in Section I of this Chapter before stoning work. 1 If the starter motor falls to operate when the Ignition key Is turned to the appropriate position, the following possible causes may be to blame. aj The battery is faulty. b) The electrical connections between the switch, solenoid, battery and starter motor are somewhere failing to pass the necessary current from the battery through the starter to earth. c) 77:© solenoid is faulty. d) The starter motor is mechanically or electrically defective. 2 To check the battery, switch on the headlights. If they dim after a few seconds, this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 2) or renew the battery. If the headlights glow brightly, operate the ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current it reaching the starter motor, therefore the iao8 must lie In the starter motor. If the lights continue to glow brightly (and no clicking sound can be heard from the starter motor solenoid), this indicates that there is a lairt
In
the circuit or solenoid - see following paragraphs, if the starter motor turns siowfy when operated, but the battery is In good condition, then this indicates that either lae starter motor is faulty, or there is considers resistance somewhere in the circuit. 3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery ieads (including ihe earth connection to the body), lt» starter/solenoid wiring and tne engine/transmission earth strap. ThoroygWy clean the connections, and reconnect the leads and wiring, ihen use a voltmeter or J«i lamp to check that full battery voltage is available at the battery positive lead connection to the solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around ttie battory terminals to prevent corrosion > corroded connections are amongst the most frequent causes of electrical system faults. 4 If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the circuit disconnecting the wire from the solenod blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or less lamp between the wire end and a good earth (such as the battery negative terminal), ais check that the wire is live when tne ignition switch is turned to the start position. If It is. then the circuit is sound - if not. the circut wiring can be checked as described Chapter 12. Section 2. 5 The solenoid contacts can be checked
Oy
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp across Ihe solenoid. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, there should b»a reading or lighted bulb, as applicable. II thars is no reading or lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be renewed. 6 If the circuit and solenoid are proves sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this event, it may be possible to have tre starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but check on the cost of spares before proceeding, as It may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor

501
Chapter 5 PartC:
Preheating system - diesel models
Contents
Glow plugs - removal, inspection and refitting 2 Preheating system - description and testing 1 Preheating system control unit - removal and refitting 3
Degrees of difficulty

Ea3y, suitable
for &
novice with little
|| experience ^

Fairty easy,
suitable for beginner with
some experience
jQ
Fairty diffctit, ^
suitable
for competent
DIY
mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY JR mechanic ^
Very difficult, ^ suitable fbrexpertDfY JR or professional ^
Specifications
Torque wrench setting Nm ibf ft Heater glow plugs 15 11
1 Preheating system -description and testing
Description 1 Each swirl chamber has a heater plug (commonly called a glow plug) screwed into it. The plugs are electrically-operated before and during start-up when the engine is cold. 2 Electrical feed to the glow plugs Is controlled by a relay/timer unit. The coolant temperature determines the period of heating that takes place. 3 A warning light in the instnjment panel tells the driver that preheating is taking place. When the light goes out, the engine is ready to be started. The voltags supply to the glow plugs continues for several seconds after the light goes out, If no attempt is made to start, the timer then cuts off the supply, In order to avoid draining the battery and overheating the glow plugs.
Testing 4 If the system malfunctions, testing is ultimately by substitution of known good units, but some preliminary checks may be made as follows. 5 Connect a voltmeter or 12-volt test lamp between the glow plug supply cable and earth (engine or vehicle metal). Make sure that the live connection is kept clear of the engine and bodywork. 6 Have an assistant switch on the ignition, and check that vottage is applied to the glow plugs. Note the time for which the warning light Is lit. and the total time for which voltage Is applied before the system cuts out. Switch off the ignition. 7 At an under-bonnet temperature of 20°C. typical times noted should be 5 or 6 seconds for warning light operation, followed by a further 10 seconds supply after the light goes out. Warning light time will increase with lower temperatures and decrease with higher temp-eratures.
8 If there Is no supply at all, the relay or associated winng is at fault. 9 To locate a defective glow plug, disconnect the main supply cable and the interconnecting strap from the top of the glow plugs. Be careful not to drop the nuts and washers. 10 Use a continuity tester, or a 12-voH test lamp connected to the battery positive terminal, to check for continuity between each glow plug terminal and earth. The resistance of a glow plug in good condition is very low (less than 1 ohm), so if the test lamp does not light or the continuity tester shows a high resistance, the glow plug is certainly defective. 11 If an ammeter is available, the current draw of each glow plug can be checked. After an initial surge of 15 to 20 amps, each plug should draw approximately 12 amps. Any plug which draws much more or less than this is probably defective. 12 As a final check, the glow plugs can be removed and Inspected as described in the following Section.

5C«2 Preheating system - diesel models
2.3 No 4 glow plug showing the main supply lead end the interconnecting strap 2.5 Removing a glow plug
2 Glow plugs -removal, Inspection and refitting
Removal Caution: If the preheating system has just been energised, or If tho engine has been running, the glow plugs will be very hot
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Remove Ihe air Inlet ducting from the front of the engine with reference to Chapter 4C, Section 2. 3 Unscrew the nut from the relevant glow plug lerminai(s). and recover the washer(s). Note that tho main supply cable is connected to Number 4 cylinder glow plug and an interconnecting strap lis fitted between the four plugs (see Illustration). 4 Where applicable, carefully move any obstructing pipes or wires lo one side to enable access to the relevant glow plug(s). 5 Unscrew the glow plug(s) and remove from the cylinder head (see illustration).
Inspection 8 Inspect each glow plug for physical damage. Burnt or eroded glow plug tips can bo caused by a bad Injector spray pattern. Have the Injectors checked if this sort of damage is found. 7 If Ihe glow plugs are In good physical condition, check them electrically using a 12 volt test lamp or continuity tester as described in the previous Section. 8 The glow plugs can be energised by applying 12 volts to them to verity that they heat up evenly and In the required time. Observe the following precautions. a) Support the glow plug by clamping it carefully in a vice or selNocking pliers. Remember it will become red-hot. b) Make sura that the power supply or test lead incorporates a fuse or overload trip to protect against damage from a short-circuit. c) After testing, allow the glow plug to cool for several minutes before attempting to handle it. 9 A glow plug In good condition will start to glow red at the tip after drawing current for 5 seconds or so. Any plug which takes much longer to start glowing, or which starts
glowing in the middle instead of at the lip, « defective. Refitting 10 Refit by reversing the removal operations. Apply a smear of copper-based anti-seize compound to the plug threads and tighten Ihe glow plugs to Ihe specified torque. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the glow plug element.
3 Preheating system control unit -removal
and
refitting I
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the baffery In Ihe Reference Section of this manual). 2 Unscrew the screws and remove the relay cover located at the left-hand end of the engine. 3 Disconnect the wiring then remove the control unit from the bracket. Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6*1
Chapter 6
Clutch
Contents
Clutch - adjustment Clutch assembly - removal, inspection and refitting Clutch cable • removal and refitting Clutch hydraulic system - bleeding
Degrees of difficulty
2 Clutch master cylinder • removal and refitting 5 7 Clutch release mechanism - removal, Inspection and refitting 8 3 Clutch slave cylinder - removal and refitting 6 4 General information 1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little experience oi^

Faidy easy,
suitable for beginner
with
^
some
experience
Fairly difficult, suitable
for
competent ^
DIY
mechanic ^
Difficiit, suitable for ^ experienced DIY JR mechanic ^

V<*y difficult,
jk
suitable
for expert
DIY
« or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Clutch pedal travel (cable-operated mechanism)
Friction plate diameter 8-valve petrol engines 16-valve petrol engines Diesel engines
Torque wrench setting Pressure plate retaining bolts
Single dry plate with diaphragm spring, cable- or hydraullcally-operated according to model 140.0 ± 5.0 mm
181.5 mm 190.0 mm 200.0 mm
Nm Ibf ft 16 12
1 General information
Vehicles with manual transmission are fitted with a pedal operated single dry plate clutch system. When the clutch pedal is depressed, effort is transmitted to the clutch release mechanism either mechanically by means of a cable, or hydraullcally by means of a master
2.5 Clutch cable adjustment
cylinder and slave cylinder. The release mechanism transfers effort to Ihe pressure plate diaphragm spring, which withdraws the pressure plate from the flywheel and releases the driven plate-Where applicable, the hydraulic fluid employed in the clutch system is the same as that used in the braking system, hence fluid is supplied to the master cylinder from a tapping on the brake fluid reservoir. The clutch hydraulic system must be sealed before work Is carried out on any of its components and then on completion, topped up and bled to remove any air bubbles.
2 Clutch - % adjustment §§ ^
Note: This procedure applies to models fitted with a cable-operated dutch
release
mechanism. No adjustment is possible on models with the hydrauHcaSy-operated system. 1 The clutch adjustment Is checked by measuring the clutch pedal travel. If a new cable has been fitted, settle it in position by depressing the clutch pedal at least thirty times. 2 Ensure that there are no obstructions
beneath the clutch pedal then measure the distance from the centre of the clutch pedal pad to the base of the steering wheel with the pedal In the at-rest position. Depress the clutch pedal fully to the floor, and measure the distance from the centre of the clutch pedal pad to the bata of the steering wheel. 3 Subtract the first measurement from the second to obtain the clutch pedal travel. If this is not with the range given in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter, adjust the clutch as follows. 4 The clutch cable Is adjusted by means of the adjuster nut on the transmission end of the cable. Access to the nut is from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 5 Working under the left-hand side of the engine compartment, slacken the locknut from the end of the clutch cable. Adjust the position of the adjuster nut. then depress the clutch pedal ten times and re-measure the dutch pedal travel. Repeat this procedure until the clutch pedal travel is as specified (see illustration). 6 Once the adjuster nut Is correctly positioned, and the pedal travel Is correctly set, securely tighten the cable locknut then lower the vehicle to the ground.

6*4 Clutch
7.17 Using a clutch friction plate centralising toot 11 Examine the machined beanng surfaces of the pressure plate and of the flywheel; they should be clean, completely flat, and free from scratches or scoring. If either is discoloured from excessive heat, or shows signs of cracks, it should be renewed - although minor damage of this nature can sometimes be polished away using emery paper 12 Check that the release bearing contact surface rotates smoothly and easily, with no sign of noise or roughness. Also check that the surface itself is smooth and unworn, with no signs of cracks, pitting or scoring. If there Is any doubt about its condition, the bearing must be renewed.
Refitting 13 On reassembly, onsure that the bearing surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate are completely clean, smoolh. and tree from oil or grease. Use solvent to remove any protective grease from new components. 14 Fit the friction plate so that its spring hub assembly faces away from the flywheel; there may also be a marking showing which way round the plate Is to be refitted. 15 Refit the pressure plate assembly, aligning the marks made on dismantling (If the original pressure plate Is re-used), and locating the pressure plate on Its three
locating dowels. Fit the pressure plate bolts, but tighten them only finger-tight, so thai the friction plate can skill be moved. 16 The friction plate must now be centralised, so that when the transmission Is refitted, Its Input shaft will pass through the splines at the centre of the friction plate. 17 Centralisation can be achieved by passing a screwdriver or other long bar through the friction plate and into the holo in the crankshaft; the friction plate can then be moved around until it is centred on the crankshaft hole. Alternatively, a clutch-aligning tool can be used to eliminate the guesswork; these can be obtained from most accessory shops (see illustration). A home-made aligning tool can be fabricated from a length of metal rod or wooden dowel which fits closely Inside the crankshaft hole, and has insulating tape wound around it to match Ihe diameter of the friction plate splined hole. 18 When the friction plate is centralised, tighten tho pressure plate bolts evenly and In a diagonal sequence to the specified torque setting. 19 Apply a Ihin smear of molybdenum dlsulphide grease to the splines of the friction plate and the transmission input shaft, and also to the release bearing bore and release fork shaft. 20 Refit the transmission as described In Chapter 7A.
8 Clutch release mechanism - & removal, inspection J and refitting ^
Removal 1 Unless the complete engine/transmission is to be removed from the car and separated lor major overhaul (see Chapter 2D), the clutch release mechanism can be reached by removing the transmission as described In Chapter 7A.
2 Unhook the release bearing from the fork and slide it off Ihe guide tubo (see illustration). 3 Using circlip pliers extract the circllp Irom the top of the release fork shaft. 4 Note the position of the arm then slide it
oW
the splines. 5 Using a small drift, tap out the upper release shaft bush from the transmission casing (see illustration). 6 Lift the release shaft from Ihe lower bush then remove it Irom inside Ihe transmission casing.
7 Extract the lower bush from 1he casing.
inspection 8 Check (he release mechanism, renewing any worn or damaged parts. Carofully checH all bearing surfaces and points of contact. 9 When checking the release bearing ilsell. note that it Is often considered worthwhile to renew it as a matter of course. Check thai the contact surface rotates smoothly and easily, with no sign of roughness, and that Ihe surface itself is smooth and unworn, with no signs of cracks, pitting or sconng. If there is any doubt about Its condition, the bearing must be renewed, Refitting 10 Apply a smear of molybdenum dlsulphide grease to the shaft pivot bushes and the contact surfaces of the release fork. 11 Tap the lower bush into the casing and refit the release fork and shaft. 12 Slide the upper bush down the shaft and tap it into the casing making sure lhat the ridge engages with the cut-out. then slide the arm on the splines the correct way round. 13 Refit the circlip in the shaft groove. 14 Slide the release bearing onto the guide tube and engage it with the fork. 15 Refil the transmission as described in Chapter 7A.
8.2 Removing the release bearing from the fork and guide lube 8.5 Clutch release shaft (1) and upper shaft bush (2)

7A»1
Chapter 7 Part A:
Manual transmission
Contents
Gearchange lever and linkage - removal and refitting 2 General information 1 Manual transmission oil level check See Chapter 1A or 18 Manual transmission oil renewal See Chapter 1A or 1B
Manual transmission overhaul • general information 4 Manual transmission • removal and refitting 3 Reversing light switch • testing, removal and refitting 5
Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable
for Faiity
easy,
suitable FaMycffficult, ^ Difficult,
sutable fa-
Verycfifficutt, ^
novice with
little
1
for beginner with suitable
for
competent experienced DIY * * < siitable
for
expert
DIY
jR or professional ^ experience 1
some
experience DIYmechanic ^ mechanic * * < siitable
for
expert
DIY
jR or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Designation: 1108 cc petrol engine 1242 cc petrol engine Non-turbo diesel engine Turbo diesel engine
Torque wrench settings Gear lever support nut Gear lever to mounting Reverse gear inhibitor cable to transmission Reversing light switch Selector rod-to-gear lever nut Speedometer drive Transmission-to-engine bolt/nut
Transverse mounted, front wheel drive layout with integral transaxle differential/final drive. 5 or 6 forward speeds, 1 reverse speed
C.S14.5.10 (5-speed) or C.514.6.10 (6-speed) C.514.5.1Q/13 (5-speed) C.514.5.13 (5-speed) C.510.5.17 (5-speed)
Nm Ibftl 6 4 49 36 30 22 40 30 17 13 12 9 es 63
1 Genera) Information
The transmission is contained In a cast-aluminium alloy casing bolted to the engine's left-hand end, and consists of the gearbox end final drive differential, Drive Is transmitted from the crankshaft via the clutch to the Input shaft, which has a spiined extension to accept the clutch friction
plate, and rotates in roller bearings at its right-hand end and ball bearings at its left-hand end (on 6-speed versions the left-hand extension rotates In a roller bearing). From the input shaft, drive is transmitted to tho output shaft, which rotates In roller bearings at Its right-hand end. and ball bearings at its left* hand end (on 6-speed versions the left-hand extension rotates in ball bearings). From the output shaft, the drive is transmitted to the differential crownwheel, which rotates with the differential case and gears in taper roller bearings, thus driving the sun gears and
driveshafts. The rotation of the differential gears on their shaft allows the inner roadwheel to rotate at a slower speed than the outer roadwheel when the car is cornering. The Input and output shaftB are arranged side by side, parallel to the crankshaft and driveshafts, so that their gear pinion teeth are In constant mesh. In the neutral position, the relevant input shaft and output shaft gear pinions rotate freely, so that drive cannot be transmitted to the output shaft and crownwheel.