recommended oil FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Repair Manual

Please be sure to read the whole of this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
SAFETY FIRST!
You must always ensure that
safety is the first consideration
in any job you carry out. A
slight lack of concentration, or
a rush to finish the job quickly
can easily result in an accident,
as can failure to follow the
precautions outlined in
this manual.
Be sure to consult the
suppliers of any materials and
equipment you may use, and
to obtain and read carefully
any operating and health and
safety instructions that may
be available on packaging or
from manufacturers
and suppliers.
Raising the Car Safely
ALWAYS ensure that the vehicle is properly supported when
raised off the ground. Don't work on, around, or underneath
a raised vehicle unless axle stands are positioned under
secure, load bearing underbody areas, or the vehicle is driven
onto ramps, with the wheels remaining on the ground
securely chocked to prevent movement.
NEVER work on a vehicle supported on a jack. Jacks are made
for lifting the vehicle only, not for holding it off the ground
while it is being worked on.
ALWAYS ensure that the safe working load rating of any
jacks, hoists or lifting gear used is sufficient for the job, and
that lifting gear is used only as recommended by the
manufacturer.
NEVER attempt to loosen or tighten nuts that require a lot of
force to turn (e.g. a tight oil drain plug) with the vehicle
raised, unless it is safely supported. Take care not to pull the
vehicle off its supports when applying force to a spanner.
Wherever possible, initially slacken tight fastenings before
raising the car off the ground.
ALWAYS wear eye protection when working under the
vehicle and when using power tools.
Working On The Vehicle
ALWAYS seek specialist advice unless you are justifiably
confident about carrying out each job. The safety of your
vehicle affects you, your passengers and other road users.
DON'T lean over, or work on, a running engine unless it is
strictly necessary, and keep long hair and loose clothing well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts. Note that it is
theoretically possible for fluorescent striplighting to make an
engine fan appear to be stationary
-
double check whether it
is spinning or not! This is the sort of error that happens when
you're really tired and not thinking straight. So...
...DON'T work on your car when you're over tired.
ALWAYS work in a well ventilated area and don't inhale dust
- it may contain asbestos or other harmful substances.
NEVER run the engine indoors, in a confined space or over
a pit.
REMOVE your wrist watch, rings and all other jewellery before
doing any work on the vehicle
-
and especially when working
on the electrical system.
DON'T remove the radiator or expansion tank filler cap when
the cooling system is hot, or you may get scalded by escaping
coolant or steam. Let the system cool down first and even
then, if the engine is not completely cold, cover the cap with
a cloth and gradually release the pressure.
NEVER drain oil, coolant or automatic transmission fluid when
the engine is hot. Allow time for it to cool sufficiently to avoid
scalding you.
ALWAYS keep antifreeze, brake and clutch fluid away from
vehicle paintwork. Wash off any spills immediately.
TAKE CARE to avoid touching any engine or exhaust system
component unless it is cool enough not to burn you.

Mains Electricity
Avoid the use of mains electricity when working on the vehicle,
whenever possible. Use rechargeable tools and a DC inspection
lamp, powered from a remote 12V battery
-
both are much
safer. However, if you do use mains-powered equipment,
ensure that the appliance is wired correctly to its plug, that
where necessary it is properly earthed (grounded), and that the
fuse is of the correct rating for the appliance. Do not use any
mains powered equipment in damp conditions or in the vicinity
of fuel, fuel vapour or the vehicle battery.
Always use an RCD (Residual Current Device) circuit breaker
with mains electricity. Then, if there is a short, the RCD circuit
breaker minimises the risk of electrocution by instantly cutting
the power supply.
Ignition System
Never work on the ignition system with the ignition switched
on, or with the engine being turned over on the starter, or
running and you are recommended never to do so.
Touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT
leads, distributor cap, ignition coil etc., can result in a severe
electric shock or physical injury as a hand is pulled sharply away.
Voltages produced by electronic ignition systems are much
higher than those produced by conventional systems and could
prove fatal, particularly to people with cardiac pacemaker
implants. Consult your handbook or main dealer if in any
doubt.
Cooling Fan
On many vehicles, the electric cooling fan can switch itself on
even with the ignition turned off. This is especially likely after
driving the car and parking it before turning off, after which
heat rises to the top of the engine and turns the fan on,
suddenly and without warning. If you intend working in the
engine bay, it's best to do so when the engine is cold, to
disconnect the battery, or keep away from the fan, if neither of
these are possible.
Battery
Never cause a spark, smoke, or allow a naked light near the
vehicle's battery, even in a well ventilated area. Highly explosive
hydrogen gas is given off as part of the charging process.
Battery terminals on the car should be shielded, since a spark
can be caused by any metal object which touches the battery's
terminals or connecting straps.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before disconnecting the battery earth
(ground) terminal read the relevant FACT FILE in Chapter 5
regarding saving computer and radio settings.)
When using a battery charger, switch off the power supply
before the battery charger leads are connected or disconnected.
If the battery is not of the 'sealed-for-life' type, loosen the filler
plugs or remove the cover before charging. For best results the
battery should be given a low rate trickle charge overnight. Do
not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.
Always wear gloves and goggles when carrying or when
topping up the battery. Acid electrolyte is extremely corrosive
and must not be allowed to contact the eyes, skin or clothes.
Brakes and Asbestos
Obviously, a car's brakes are among its most important safety
related items. ONLY work on your vehicle's braking system if
you are trained and competent to do so. If you have not been
trained in this work, but wish to carry out the jobs described in
this book, we strongly recommend that you have a garage or
qualified mechanic check your work before using the car.
Whenever you work on the braking system components, or
remove front or rear brake pads or shoes: i) wear an efficient
particle mask; ii) wipe off all brake dust from the brakes after
spraying on a proprietary brand of brake cleaner (never blow
dust off with compressed air); iii) dispose of brake dust and
discarded shoes or pads in a sealed plastic bag; iv) wash your
hands thoroughly after you have finished working on the
brakes and certainly before you eat or smoke; v) replace shoes
and pads only with asbestos-free shoes or pads. Note that
asbestos brake dust can cause cancer if inhaled; vi) always
replace brake pads and/or shoes in complete 'axle' sets of four
-

never replace the pads/shoes on one wheel only.
Brake Fluid
Brake fluid absorbs moisture rapidly from the air and can
become dangerous resulting in brake failure. You should
change the fluid in accordance with your vehicle manufacturer's
recommendations or as advised in this book. Never store (or
use) an opened container of brake fluid. Dispose of the
remainder at your Local Authority Waste Disposal Site, in the
designated disposal unit, not with general waste or with waste
oil.
Engine Oils
Always wear disposable plastic or rubber gloves when draining
the oil from your engine, i) Note that the drain plug and the oil
are often hotter than you expect. Wear gloves if the plug is too
hot to touch and keep your hand to one side so that you are
not scalded by the spurt of oil as the plug comes away; ii) There
are very real health hazards associated with used engine oil. In
the words of one manufacturer's handbook "Prolonged and
repeated contact may cause serious skin disorders, including
dermatitis and cancer." Use a barrier cream on your hands and
try not to get oil on them. Always wear gloves and wash your
hands with hand cleaner soon after carrying out the work. Keep
oil out of the reach of children; iii) NEVER, EVER dispose of old
engine oil into the ground or down a drain. In the UK, and in
most EC countries, every local authority must provide a safe
means of oil disposal. In the UK, try your local Environmental
Health Department for advice on waste disposal facilities.
Plastic Materials
Many of the materials used (polymers, resins, adhesives and
materials acting as catalysts and accelerators) contain dangers in
the form of poisonous fumes, skin irritants, and the risk of fire

Please read the whole of the Introduction to this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
CHAPTER 5
SERVICING YOUR CAR
Everyone wants to own a
car that starts first time,
runs reliably and lasts
longer than the average.
And it's all a question of
thorough maintenance!
If you follow the FIAT-
approved Service Jobs
listed here you can almost
guarantee that your car will
still be going strong when
others have fallen by the
wayside
-
or the hard
shoulder.
How To Use This Chapter
This chapter contains all of the servicing Jobs recommended
by FIAT for all models of Tipo and Tempra imported into the
UK except cars with 1.8 and 2 litre DOHC petrol engines. To
use the schedule, note that:
• Each letter code tells you the Service Interval at which you
should carry out each Service Job.
• Each Service Job has a Job number.
• Look up the number in the relevant part of this chapter and
you will see a complete explanation of the work.
SAFETY FIRST!
SAFETY FIRST information must always be read with
care and always taken seriously.
• In addition, please read the whole of Chapter 1,
Safety First! before carrying out any work on your
car.
• There are many hazards associated with working on
a car but all of them can be avoided by adhering
strictly to the safety rules.
• Don't skimp on safety!
SERVICE INTERVALS - INTRODUCTION
• We think it is very
important to keep things as
straightforward as possible.
And where you see this heading, you'll know there's
an extra tip to help 'make it easy' for you!
Over the years, FIAT, in common with all other manufacturers,
have lengthened their recommended service intervals. For
instance, oil changes on later FIATs don't have to take place as
often as earlier ones. In the main, these changes have not
come about because of specific modifications to the cars
themselves. They have come about because of a number of
factors: Lubricants, spark plugs, seals and other components
have improved and mechanical parts are better made due to
improved materials and production techniques.
As a result, you are recommended to follow the maker's
recommendations on how often to service your car. If your car
lies right on a change-over point, the choice of which
schedule to follow will be yours, unless the specific advice
given here recommends otherwise
-
as we said earlier, most
change points came about for a number of reasons, so it
generally isn't necessary to identify with pinpoint accuracy
which bracket your car belongs to, if it isn't obvious.
32

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

—I Job 13. Check cooling system.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The coolant level should be checked
-
and the
cooling system worked on, ONLY WHEN THE
COOLANT IS COLD. If you remove the pressure cap or
bleed screws when the engine is hot, scalding coolant
will spurt out.
• Keep anti-freeze away from children. If it is acciden-
tally swallowed or contacts skin or eyes, rinse
immediately with plenty of water and seek immediate
medical help.
Examine the cooling system hoses, looking for signs of
splitting, chafing and perishing. Squeeze the top and bottom
radiator hoses. Any hard, brittle areas or crackling sounds tell
you that the hoses are decomposing from the inside
-
replace-
ments needed!
SAFETY FIRST!
If
a
clearance is outside the tolerances shown in Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures, the relevant shim will have to be changed.
New
shims
are available from your FIAT dealer. This work is
fully described in Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
10E. You must
always use a new
gasket, especially in
view of the oil level
mentioned earlier.
Clean the housing

and
cover faces and

use
the gasket dry.

11.
Examine the

belt
for wear. If
there
is
any
cracking, or if the
toothed side
10F.H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The cover is 'anti-
crush'
-
you CAN'T
tighten beyond
the lugs pointed
out here
-
so
there's no point
trying! H
0 Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt.
Remove the camshaft belt outer cover. See Chapter 6,

Repairs
and Replacements, PART A: ENGINE.
FACT FILE: VALVE IDENTIFICATION:
T
—
Remember that clearances for inlet and
3™ exhaust valves differ. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures. Counting from the
—^ timing belt end the valves are:
1.1,1.2 8-valve AND DIESEL ENGINES:
EXHAUST -1, 3, 6, 8. INLET
-
2, 4, 5, 7.
1372cc AND 1581cc ENGINES: EXHAUST -1, 4, 5, 8.
INLET
-
2, 3, 6, 7.
1.2 16-valve Hydraulic tappets
-
non-adjustable.
13. If original FIAT hose
clips (a) are fitted, cut them
off (taking great care not to
damage the stub beneath!)
and replace with screw-
tight clips, when fitting a
new hose. Ensure that hose
clips are secure and firm but
not over-tightened.
Check that the wires to the
cooling fan switch (b) are in
good shape. Also, refer to
Job
27

• Job 14. Change engine coolant.
• See SAFETY FIRST! at the start of Job 13.
appears worn, or
any 'teeth' are
missing, replace
the belt straight
away. If the belt

breaks
the valves may collide with the pistons, causing serious
engine damage. Camshaft belt replacement is described in

Chapter 6,
Repairs and Replacements, or you may wish to

have
your FIAT dealer carry out the work for you. If you can
twist the belt through more than 90 degrees, it needs re-
tensioning. Also see Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
m
AUtOKAlIC CtMAU s/
b
14A. Remove the expansion tank filler cap. Move the heater
control (a) to the red (open) position or, on automatic
systems, press the TEMP button (b) on the dash until HI
appears on the display (c).
—i Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt.

It is
ESSENTIAL that you renew the camshaft drive belt at the
recommended interval. See the Service Interval Chart at the

start
of this chapter. Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements
explains how to carry out the work.
14B. Loosen the
worm-drive clip
(arrowed) and
pull off the
bottom radiator
hose.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Take care not to allow any dirt or grit
to get into the gearbox.
• Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters.
45
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Make sure you have a 10 mm
Allen key that will fit, before you start. There's very little
room between gearbox and subframe. B
Q Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level.

The
automatic transmission fluid level should be checked with

the
car on level ground and the engine at normal running
temperature
-
the car should have been driven for about 4
miles. The level is checked by means of a dipstick next to the
battery.
IMPORTANT NOTE: i) It is especially important that the
fluid is at the correct level. If the system needs regular
topping up because of leaks, fix them as rapidly as
possible or have your FIAT dealer check the system,
ii) Wipe the dipstick only with a lint-free rag to avoid
clogging up transmission valves. Keep dirt out!
18B. The filter is
secured by one
central screw.
Undo this and pull
the filter down,
detaching its upper
fluid pipe in the
process. Remove
the filter, discard it
and fit the
replacement. Refit
the sump, using a
new gasket and
non-setting gasket
sealer.
Replace the drain plug and fill the gearbox through the
dipstick tube. {See Job
17.)

19A. Grasp and turn the
inner drive-shaft and
gaiters, checking for signs
of gaiter splitting or
damage that could allow
grease out or
-
worse still

-
water in. Ensure the
gaiter clips are secure.
Q INSIDE INFOR-
MATION: Inners tend to
leak, putting an oil
stain on the shaft, as
here. You can buy a
FIAT repair kit, with
bearing and
replacement gaiter, to
repair the leak. This
involves removing the
drive shaft
-
see
Chapter 6, Repairs
and Replacements. B
19B. Check the outer
gaiter as well. This moves
over a greater range and
is more prone to damage
and splits.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Change a split, or
damaged gaiter as soon
as possible
-
preferably
before using the car
again.
If
necessary,
fresh Tutela CVT should be poured in through

the
dipstick tube, using a funnel in the tube or by using ATF

from
a dispenser with a small spout. You may have to leave

the fresh
oil to clear the tube before seeing a clear dipstick
reading.
G Job 18. Replace auto, transmission fluid and
filter.

As well as
Tutela CVT fluid, you will need a new, sump
gasket
and
a new gearbox oil filter, from your FIAT dealer. The
filter
should
be changed every time the oil is replaced.

18A.
Always drain the

fluid when
the trans-
mission
is
warm, such as

after a
run. Raise the

front
of the car on

ramps,
so the fluid

drains well
from the

drain
hole (C) at the rear
under-side of the 'box.

Remove
the drain plug

with an
Allen key or hexagonal socket adaptor, and allow the

fluid to
drain into a container beneath the transmission
-
allow

ten
minutes for complete drainage.
Underneath the car, remove the 13 transmission sump bolts.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: The sump is easily distorted,

so,
when refitting, tighten all bolts progressively and
evenly to the recommended torque
-
see Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures. B

17.
Check the level with the
engine idling and the gear
selector in the 'P' (PARK)
position. Pull out the dipstick

(A),
wipe it clean with paper
kitchen towel, re-insert it and
check the level. The upper

and
lower marks on the dipstick represent minimum and
maximum acceptable fluid levels.

• Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter. IMPORTANT NOTES:
• Wear plastic gloves and goggles and have a large rag
and a suitable fire extinguisher ready.
• Place a container beneath the filter to catch fuel
spillage.
• After fitting the new filter in place, refit the casing,
ensure no traces of fuel are left, reconnect the battery and
restart the engine.
• Check carefully to ensure there are no leaks before
refitting the cover.
• Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Some models are fitted with a water-
in-fuel sensor. Drain the filter when the warning light
comes on. Unplug the sensor from the base of the filter,
first.
FUEL INJECTION
MODELS
32A. The filter is under the
car, ahead of the fuel tank.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION:
Remove the visible screws
holding the flexible
plastic cover in place.
You can now pull the
front down and out of
the way. E3
32B. Undo the clamp,
remove the outer
casing and renew the
special paper filter,
from your FIAT
dealership. There is
an arrow on the
casing to remind you
which way round it
must be fitted.
33. The fuel filter is
located in the rear of
the engine
compartment. Water
carried in the fuel
accumulates in the
bottom of the filter,
and should not be
allowed to build up.
To drain it position a receptacle under the filter, then unscrew
the knurled tap at the bottom of the filter by a couple of turns.
Do so at the recommended interval, or if the panel indicator
comes on. (See Chapter
2,
Getting to Know Your
Car.)
H INSIDE INFORMATION: Plastic fuel pipes become
brittle and snap. Extra care needed! E3
SAFETY FIRST!
• The high pressure pipework on a fuel injection
system can retain its pressure for days even after the
engine has been switched off.
• When you disconnect the pipework, a jet of fuel can
be emitted under very high pressure
-
strong enough
to penetrate the skin or damage the eyes.
• NEVER work on the fuel pipework when the engine
is running (except when bleeding Diesel injectors).
• ALWAYS place a rag over a union while it is being
undone until all the pressure has been let out of the
system.
• You are recommended to wear strong rubber gloves
and goggles when disconnecting the fuel injection
system's high pressure pipework. Always disconnect
VERY slowly, letting pressure out progressively.
• See Chapter 6, PART F: Job 8 for details of how to
depressurise the system.
• Disconnect the battery negative earth before
working on the fuel system.
• Work outdoors and away from sources of flame or
ignition.
• ALWAYS wear rubber gloves
-
don't let your
skin

come into contact with fuel.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All Tipo/Tempra diesel engines are
self-bleeding and there should be no need to bleed air
out of the system manually.
• Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter.
Drain the fuel filter. Unscrew the complete filter canister from
its head, in the same way that you would an engine oil filter.
First undip the sensor plug (if fitted) from the base of the unit.
^ 34A. If it is too tight to
^^ - unscrew by hand, use an oil
filter wrench on the lower,
flatted zone (C). Wipe the underside of the filter head,
fill the new filter
with fuel...
34B. ...lightly
lubricate its seal
with fuel, then
screw it onto the
filter head. Once it
is 'nipped up',
tighten it as far as
possible by hand,
without
'murdering' it
-
so
that you CAN
remove it next
time!

50A. Remove the two

bolts
(one or both of
them also the wheel
positioning stud/s)...
50B. ...and remove
the
drum.
Clean the
inside of the drum and
the brake with aerosol

brake
cleaner. If the
drum is badly scored

or cracked,
replace it.
50F. So that you don't
have to bleed the
system, release and
disconnect the parking
brake cable (arrowed)
and lift the caliper out
of the way, suspending
it on a piece of wire so
that no strain is placed
on the flexible hydraulic
hose.
50G. The brake pads are simply lifted away.
50E. Using a pair of
spanners, as shown,
remove the two
retaining bolts. These
bolts are self-locking
and FIAT recommend
that they should be
replaced each time they
are removed or if they
become loose.
Examine the brake

shoes
for wear or oil
contamination. If the
latter, the wheel cylinder is probably leaking (see 50C) and the

shoes will
have to be scrapped. FIAT recommend a minimum

1.5 mm
shoe lining thickness, but it's advisable to replace

shoes
well before they're this thin.
50C. Fold back each of

the
two rubbers on

the wheel
cylinder.
Any
fluid
found inside
requires a new
cylinder. However,
newish cylinders will

have a
little of their
special grease still in
there.
. """
€
Sjjj
KV,1
| 50D|

50D. Take
special care

to wash
all the brake

dust
away from the
automatic adjuster
mechanism with
aerosol brake cleaner.

Make
sure that it is

not seized
but if it is,

you will
have to strip

down
the assembly (see Chapter
6,
Repairs and

Replacements)
and free off or replace. Add brake grease very
sparingly (NOT ordinary grease) to the mechanism.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For information on replacing missing
or damaged springs, brake shoes or wheel cylinders, see
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
DISC REAR BRAKES

With
the rear of the car raised and safely supported (see

Chapter 1,
Safety First) and the rear wheels removed, brake

pad
inspection can be carried out by looking through the
aperture in the caliper body. However, as for the front brakes,

you are
recommended to remove the calipers. See notes at

the
start of Job
49.
The pads should be replaced as detailed in

Chapter 6,
Repairs and Replacements. Minimum thickness

is 1.5 mm -
but don't let them get this low!
• Job 51. Check/adjust handbrake.
The handbrake is intended to 'set' itself in use as the rear
brake self-adjusters operate. If the handbrake seems not to
work, even though lever travel is not excessive, remove the
rear drums and examine the brake shoes (see Job 50) and the
self-adjuster mechanism, to ensure that it has not seized. The
handbrake may need adjusting when, after a time, the
handbrake cable stretches or if the rear brake friction materials
are replaced.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On rear disc brake cars, the
handbrake-end of the mechanism is the same as for
drum brake cars. At the brakes, the clearance is adjusted
automatically, provided that the adjuster, built in to the
caliper assembly, has not seized. If it has, replace the
caliper.
SAFETY FIRST!
Raise the rear of the car to adjust the handbrake. It
is

ESSENTIAL to ensure the front wheels are securely
chocked in both directions, and that axle stands are
used to support the car.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
• Follow Job 49
carefully for further
information such as
on checking the
caliper seals, the
condition of the disc,
and lubricating the
pad backing plates.
• Before fitting new
pads, turn the caliper
piston clockwise until it goes fully in.
• Pump the brake pedal repeatedly to adjust the pad
positions and top up with fresh brake fluid.

51. Apply the
handbrake lever by
one 'click' of the
ratchet. From inside
the car, turn the
adjusting nut (a)
until the cable is
drawn taut. Pull the
handbrake up two
more 'clicks' and check that both rear wheels are now
'locked'. Check also that both rear wheels are completely free
when the handbrake is fully OFF. When everything works
properly, lower the car to the ground, and check again that
moving the handbrake through about three notches is suffi-
cient to hold the car stationary. A proper check of handbrake
efficiency can only be carried out by a garage with a 'rolling
road' brake tester.
Q Job 52. Check brake pipes.
FLEXIBLE HOSES
Check the flexible brake pipes that connect the calipers to the
metal pipes on the body. Try bending back on themselves
those that are not contained in a protective coil, and look for
any signs of cracking, particularly at the bends. Check them all
for signs of rubbing, splitting, kinks and perishing of the
rubber. Check hoses for 'ballooning' with the brake pedal
pressed.
RIGID PIPES
Check all rigid pipes for signs of damage or corrosion and
check that all of the locating clips are sound and in place.
• Job 53. Change brake hydraulic fluid.
Change the brake fluid at the recommended interval. See
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements, PART H: BRAKES,
Job 15.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: Brake fluid absorbs water from
the air. This corrodes brake components and can cause
total brake failure. With brakes applied heavily, the fluid
can heat to above 100 degrees Celsius, the water
vaporises, and the pedal goes to the floor! B
PART H: BODYWORK & INTERIOR
• Job 54. Lubricate hinges and locks.
Apply a few drops of light oil (from either an aerosol or oil
can) to the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate. Dip the
door/tailgate key in graphite powder and insert the key to
lubricate the lock barrels. Grease the door and tailgate latch
mechanism (aerosol grease is handy), the bonnet release
mechanism (and the tailgate's, if applicable) and the cable
end. Don't forget the fuel tank flap hinge and the locking cap
- it's a stopper when it jams!
• Job 55. Check windscreen.
Clean the windscreen with a proprietary glass cleaner and
examine it for stone chips, cracks and scoring. While some
degree of damage is acceptable, the strict MoT Test regula-
tions limit the amount and position of such defects. Some
screen chips can be repaired and made invisible.
• Job 56. Check seat and seat belt mountings.
Your car's seat and safety belt mountings and backrest
adjustment locking mechanism will be checked as part of the
annual test, but it pays to check them beforehand. Also,
regularly check that the seat belts: a) retract easily and
smoothly, and b) 'hold' when you snatch them, or under
sharp braking.
Q Job 57. Check headlight alignment.
Some vehicles are fitted with an automatic headlight levelling
device. On these vehicles, each of the headlights is adjusted
according to the vehicle height and no height levelling
adjustment is possible.
57. On the majority of vehicles, there is a manual height
adjuster. When the vehicle is unladen, the lever should be in
position (1): when fully laden, in position (2). The height
adjusters are on the inner side of each headlight and are
visible with the bonnet open. Make sure that the adjusters are
set to the 'unladen' position before the headlights are
adjusted. Don't confuse the beam correctors with the vertical
alignment screw (A) and the horizontal adjuster screw (B).
• Job 58. Check underbody.
Check the condition of the underbody for damage and
corrosion. Take a tin of waxy underbody seal and a brush
under the car and replace any missing underbody seal.
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org
RIGHT SIDE

gjpjgjjl 'READING' YOUR SPARK PLUGS
Champion explain how the condition of spark plug firing ends can act as a guide to the state of tune and general condition of the engine. The examples shown are assumed to be the correct grade for the engine.
NORMAL
Core nose lightly coated with grey-brown deposits. Electrodes not burning unduly
-
gap increasing by about 0.01 mm every 1,000 miles approximately (with the use of unleaded fuel). Spark plugs correct for engine.
OIL FOULING
Deposits can short-circuit firing end, weakening or eliminating spark. Causes: worn valve guides, bores or piston rings, or while new engine is running-in. Replace spark plugs. Cure oiling problem.
SPLIT CORE NOSE
(May first appear as hair-line-crack). Probably caused by: Over-advanced ignition timing. Faulty distributor advance mechanism. Use of low octane fuel. Weak mixture. Manifold air-leaks. Cooling system problems. Incorrect gap-setting technique.
HEAVY DEPOSITS
Possible causes: Fuel or oil additives. Excessive upper cylinder lubricant. Worn valve guides. Unvarying speed (stationary engine). Replace spark plugs.
OVERHEATING
Likely causes are: Over-advanced ignition timing, or faulty distributor advance mechanism. Use of low octane fuel. Weak mixture. Discard spark plugs showing signs of overheating, and cure the cause.
CARBON FOULING
Look for dull black sooty deposits. (Unleaded fuel carbon fouling can appear similar to oil fouling). Deposits can short circuit the firing end, weakening or eliminating the spark. Check for: Over-rich mixture, faulty choke or clogged air filter. Replace spark plugs.
INITIAL PRE-IGNITION
Caused by serious overheating. Causes are those listed for overheating, but may be more severe. Corrective measures are urgently needed before engine damage occurs. Discard plugs in this condition.
FACT FILE: CORRECT INSTALLATION
• Make sure seating areas are perfectly clean.
• Insert plug finger tight to seat. Ensure plug 'spins' freely.
• PLUGS WITH SEATING GASKET: Tighten to relevant torque setting.
• PLUGS WITH TAPER SEATS: Tighten a further l/16th turn ONLY - no further!
• Overtightening can damage cylinder head or make taper seat plugs impossible to remove.
RECOMMENDED FL LUBRICANTS
FOR YOUR FIAT TIPO ARID TEMPRA
COMPONENT/ TIPO & TEMPRA TIPO SELECTA & TEMPRA SELECTA TIPO & TEMPRA DIESEL CAPACITY 1.4 and 1.6 1.6 and 1.6 i.e. 1.7 D, 1.9 Dand 1.9 TD
ENGINE SELENIA 20K SELENIA 20K SELENIA TURBO DIESEL CAPACITY 3.8 L 3.8 L/4.2 L 5.0 L
MANUAL TRANSMISSION TUTELA ZC80/S -TUTELA ZC80/S CAPACITY 2.0 L -2.0 L
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION -TUTELA CVT -CAPACITY -3.5 L (a) -
DIFFERENTIAL(S) FROM GEARBOX FROM GEARBOX FROM GEARBOX CAPACITY ---
STEERING BOX TUTELA K854 TUTELA K854 TUTELA K854 CAPACITY 80 g (b) 80 g (b) 80 g (b)
CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINTS TUTELA MRM2 TUTELA MRM2 TUTELA MRM2 CAPACITY 95 g (each) 95 g (each) 95 g (each)
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR TUTELA PLUS 3 TUTELA PLUS 3 TUTELA PLUS 3 CAPACITY (NON-ABS) 0.40
L
(c) 0.40 L (c) 0.40
L
(c)
COOLANT PARAFLU 11 PARAFLU 11 PARAFLU 11 CAPACITY 6.5 L(d) 6.5 L(d) 8.8
L
(d)
WINDSCREEN WASHER TANK AREXONS DP1 AREXONS DP1 AREXONS DP1 CAPACITY 5.0 L 5.0 L 5.0 L
NOTES: (a) DRAIN/REFILL CAPACITY (b) IF MODEL FITTED WITH POWER ASSISTED STEERING USE 0.75 L TUTELA Gl/A (c) IF ABS BRAKING IS FITTED USE 0.52 L TUTELA TOP 4 (d) COOLING SYSTEM AT A CONCENTRATION OF 50% COOLANT TO 50% WATER
CHANGE PERIODS: See Chapter 5, Service Intervals
154