wheel torque FIAT UNO 1983 Service User Guide

42.9 Fitting the auxiliary shaft
41 Engine- reassembly (general)
Refer to Section 19, Part 2.
42 Engine-
complete reassembly
4
Crankshaft and main bearings
1Fit the bearing shells to their crankcase
seats and to their caps. The seatings and
backs of the shells must be spotlessly clean,
otherwise tight spots will occur when the
crankshaft is fitted. The centre bearing shell is
plain (photo).2Fit the thrust washer halves to their
locations at No. 5 bearing, noting that the oil
grooves in the washers face outwards (photo).
3Oil the surfaces of the bearing shells
liberally and lower the crankshaft into position
(photo).
4Fit the main bearing caps to their correct
locations, the correct way round (numerical
chisel marks towards the auxiliary shaft). The
rear cap is unmarked. Tighten the cap bolts to
the specified torque (photos).
5Check that the crankshaft rotates smoothly
and freely.
6At this stage, the crankshaft endfloat
should be checked. Prise the crankshaft fully
in one direction and measure the gap
between the machined face of the flywheel
mounting flange and the crankcase. Now
push the shaft in the opposite direction and
measure again. Ideally, a dial gauge should be
used for these measurements, but feelerblades will serve as a reasonable alternative.
The difference between the two dimensions
(feeler blades) or the total movement of the
crankshaft (dial gauge) should be within the
specified tolerance. If it is not, the thrust
washers at No. 5 main bearing will have to be
changed for thicker ones; this will require
taking out the crankshaft again to reach them.
7Fit new oil seals to the retainers and, using
new gaskets, bolt the retainers to the front
and rear ends of the crankshaft, having first
filled the oil seal lips with grease (photos).
Pistons/connecting rods
8The refitting operations are described in
Section 32.
Auxiliary shaft
9Lubricate the auxiliary shaft bearings and fit
the shaft into the crankcase (photo).
10Fit a new seal to the endplate and fit the
1•30 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
42.7C Rear oil seal carrier42.7B Front oil seal carrier
42.7A Removing oil seal from carrier42.4B Tightening a main bearing cap bolt42.4A Number one main bearing cap
42.3 Lowering crankshaft into position42.2 Crankshaft thrust washers42.1 Main bearing shells

plate to the crankcase, using a new gasket
(photos).
11Fit the belt sprocket and partially tighten
its bolt. Then, using an oil filter strap wrench
or similar device to hold the sprocket against
rotation, tighten the bolt to the specified
torque. Take care not to damage the teeth of
the sprocket, which is of fibre construction
(photo).
Oil sump, sump pan and
breather
12Fit the oil drain pipe by tapping it into
place, squarely in its hole in the crankcase.
Tighten its retaining bolt (photo).
13Bolt up the oil pump, using a new gasket
at its mounting flange (photo).14Fit the sump (using a new gasket) and
tighten the securing screws to the specified
torque. Note the reinforcement washers
(photo).
15Insert the oil pump/driveshaft into the
distributor hole. This does not have to be
specially positioned as the distributor is
splined to the shaft and can be set by moving
its location in the splines (refer to Chapter 4)
(photo).
16Push the breather into its crankcase
recess and tighten its securing bolt (photos).Flywheel, crankshaft sprocket
and pulley
17Make sure that the flywheel-to-crankshaft
mounting flange surfaces are clean. Althoughthe bolt holes have unequal distances
between them, it is possible to fit the flywheel
in one of two alternative positions at 180º
difference. Therefore if the original flywheel is
being refitted, align the marks made before
removal.
18If a new flywheel is being fitted, or if
alignment marks were not made before
dismantling, set No. 1 position at TDC
(crankshaft front Woodruff key pointing
vertically). Fit the flywheel to its mounting
flange so that its timing dimple is uppermost
and in alignment with the relative position of
the TDC mark on the flywheel housing
inspection window.
19Insert the bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque, jamming the ring gear to
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•31
42.11 Tightening camshaft sprocket bolt.
Note sprocket locking device42.10B Tightening auxiliary shaft end plate
bolt42.10A Auxiliary shaft end plate and
gasket
42.16B Crankcase breather and retaining
bolt42.16A Crankcase breather seal42.15 Fitting oil pump driveshaft
42.14 Tightening sump pan bolt42.13 Locating oil pump and gasket42.12 Tightening oil drain pipe bolt
1

prevent the flywheel turning. Fit the engine
endplate (photo).
20Fit the timing belt sprocket to the front
end of the crankshaft (photo).
21Fit the crankshaft pulley and the nut;
tighten it to the specified torque, again
jamming the starter ring gear to prevent the
crankshaft from rotating (photo).
Cylinder head
22Refitting is described in Section 29.
Camshaft carrier and camshaft
23Refitting is described in Section 27.
Timing belt and tensioner
24Refitting is described in Section 28, but
make sure that the belt cover rear plate is
bolted into position. If the engine mounting
bracket was removed, bolt it into positioncomplete with the tensioner plunger to
provide spring pressure to the belt pulley
(photos).
Valve clearances
25Check the valve clearances as described
in Section 26.
26Using new gaskets, bolt on the camshaft
carrier cover plate and the inlet and exhaust
manifolds using new gaskets. Fit the exhaust
manifold hot air collector plate (photo).
27Locate the engine rear plate on its dowels
by sliding it behind the flywheel (photo).
43 Engine ancillaries- refitting
1Bolt on the carburettor (Chapter 3). 2Fit the coolant pump and thermostat
housing (Chapter 2).
3Fit the alternator and tension the drivebelt
(Chapters 9 and 2).
4Fit the distributor (Chapter 4).
5Fit the fuel pump (Chapter 3).
6Fit the clutch (Chapter 5).
7Fit a new oil filter cartridge (Section 2 of this
Chapter).
44 Engine/transmission-
reconnection and refitting
3
1Offer the transmission to the engine making
sure that the clutch has been centralised as
described in Chapter 5 (photo).
1•32 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
44.1 Offering transmission to engine42.27 Engine rear plate42.26 Tightening a camshaft carrier cover
nut
42.24C Engine mounting bracket with belt
tensioner plunger (arrowed)
42.24B Belt cover mounting stud42.24A Belt cover rear plate
42.21 Crankshaft pulley and nut42.20 Fitting crankshaft timing belt
sprocket42.19 Tightening flywheel bolts

2Draw the engine and transmission together
by screwing in the connecting bolts.
Refit lifting lugs and hose and wiring clips
(photo).
3Bolt the lower cover plate to the face of the
flywheel housing.
4Bolt the starter motor into position.
5Bolt the mounting brackets into place.
6Place the engine/transmission on the floor
ready for raising by hoist or jack into the
engine compartment.
7Raise the car and position it over the
engine/transmission.
8Hoist or jack the power unit upwards until
the left and right-hand mountings can be
connected (photos).9Remove the lifting mechanism and connect
the bottom mounting (photos).
10Connect the inboard ends of the
driveshafts with the transmission and the
outboard ends with the hub carriers.
11Reconnect the hub carriers with the
clamps at the base of the suspension struts.
Tighten the fixing bolts to the specified torque.
12Bolt the brake flexible hose support clips
to the suspension struts.
13Reconnect the tie-rod end balljoints
tightening the nuts to the specified torque.
14Reconnect the gearchange rods. The
easiest way to do this is to force the sockets
onto the ball studs using a pair of self-locking
grips (photo).15Refit the exhaust system and
reconnect the downpipe to the manifold
(photo).
16Screw on the driveshaft nuts and tighten
them to the specified torque. Have an
assistant apply the brake pedal hard to
prevent the driveshaft from turning.
17Refit the front roadwheels and lower the
car to the floor.
18Reconnect the carburettor fuel and
coolant hoses.
19Unplug the fuel hose and connect it to the
pump.
20Reconnect the choke and throttle controls
to the carburettor.
21Reconnect the coolant and heater hoses
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•33
44.8B Left-hand engine mounting44.8A Raising engine/transmission into
engine compartment44.2 Lifting lug at bellhousing bolt
44.15 Exhaust downpipe flange nuts44.14 Connecting a gearchange rod ball
cup44.9B Lower mounting attachment bolts
44.9A Engine/transmission lower mounting44.8D Right-hand mounting bolted up44.8C Right-hand engine mounting
brackets
1

Spark plugs
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC
Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.031 in)
HT leads
903 cc (45) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07
1116, 1299 and 1301 cc (55, 60 and 70) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05
Torque wrench settingNm lbf ft
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
4•2 Ignition system
1 General description
On all models except the 903 ES engine
version, a mechanical contact breaker type
distributor is fitted.
On 45 Super ES models which have the
903 ES engine, an electronic (Digiplex) ignition
system is used which incorporates a
breakerless distributor.
Mechanical contact breaker
system
For the engine to run correctly, it is
necessary for an electrical spark to ignite the
fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber at
exactly the right moment in relation to engine
speed and load. The ignition system is based
on feeding low tension voltage from the
battery to the coil where it is converted to high
tension voltage. The high tension voltage is
powerful enough to jump the spark plug gap
in the cylinders under high compression
pressures, providing that the system is in
good condition and that all adjustments are
correct.
The ignition system is divided into two
circuits, the low tension (LT) circuit and the
high tension (HT) circuit.
The low tension (sometimes known as the
primary) circuit consists of the battery, the
lead to the ignition switch, the lead from the
ignition switch to the low tension or primary
coil windings, and the lead from the low
tension coil windings to the contact breaker
points and condenser in the distributor.
The high tension circuit consists of the high
tension or secondary coil windings, the heavy
ignition lead from the centre of the coil to the
centre of the distributor cap, the rotor arm,
and the spark plug leads and spark plugs.
The system functions in the following
manner: High tension voltage is generated in
the coil by the interruption of the low tension
circuit. The interruption is effected by the
opening of the contact breaker points in this
low tension circuit. High tension voltage is fed
from the centre of the coil via the carbon
brush in the centre of the distributor cap to
the rotor arm of the distributor.
The rotor arm revolves at half engine speed
inside the distributor cap, and each time it
comes in line with one of the four metal
segments in the cap, which are connected to
the spark plug leads, the opening of thecontact breaker points causes the high
tension voltage to build up, jump the gap from
the rotor arm to the appropriate metal
segment, and so via the spark plug lead to the
spark plug, where it finally jumps the spark
plug gap before going to earth.
The ignition timing is advanced and
retarded automatically, to ensure the sparkoccurs at just the right instant for the
particular load at the prevailing engine speed.
The ignition advance is controlled
mechanically, and by vacuum. The
mechanical governor mechanism consists of
two weights, which move out from the
distributor shaft as the engine speed rises,
due to centrifugal force. As they move
Fig. 4.1 Typical ignition circuit (mechanical contact breaker distributor) (Sec 1)
1 Control unit
2 Multi-plug
3 Ignition coil
4 Distributor cap5 Crankshaft pulley
6 Flywheel
7 Battery
8 Rev counter9 Spark plugs
10 Wiring connector
S1 Engine speed sensor
S2 TDC sensor
Fig. 4.2 Digiplex electronic ignition system (Sec 1)

8
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dual-circuit hydraulic with servo unit and pressure regulating valve.
Discs front, drums rear. Handbrake mechanical to rear wheels.
Disc brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single cylinder, sliding caliper
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227.0 mm (8.94 in)
Disc thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.7 to 10.9 mm (0.42 to 0.43 in)
Minimum regrind thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mm (0.35 in)
Minimum wear thickness of pad friction material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Caliper cylinder diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.0 mm (1.89 in)
Drum brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single cylinder, with automatic adjusters
Drum internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185.24 to 185.53 mm (7.30 to 7.31 in)
Maximum regrind diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187.0 mm (7.37 in)
Minimum shoe lining friction material thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Cylinder diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.05 mm (0.75 in)
Master cylinder bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.05 mm (0.75 in)
Vacuum servo diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158.5 mm (6.0 in)
Hydraulic fluid type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 3 or 4, or SAE J1703C
System capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.33 litre (0.58 pint)
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Caliper mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 39
Rear wheel cylinder mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Pressure regulating valve mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Master cylinder mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Rear brake backplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Chapter 8 Braking system
For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual
Brake disc - inspection, renovation or renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Brake drum - inspection, renovation or renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Disc pads - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Fault finding - braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Handbrake cable - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Hydraulic hoses and pipes - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Pressure regulating valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rear brake shoes - inspection and removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Stop lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Vacuum servo unit - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Vacuum servo unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Vacuum servo unit - servicing and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
8•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

10
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rack and pinion with safety column
Steering wheel diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381.0 mm (15.0 in)
Number of turns, lock-to-lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Turning circle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4 m (3084 ft)
Steering angles of roadwheels
Inner wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32º 58’
Outer wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39º 8’
Front suspension steering angles
Camber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º 5’ negative to 0º 55’ positive
Castor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1º 40’ to 2º 20’ positive
Toe-in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 to 2.0 mm (0 to 0 08 in)
Rear suspension
Camber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0º (non-adjustable)
Rack lubricant
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lithium based molybdenum disulphide grease
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 cc
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Steering wheel nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Steering shaft coupling pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20
Steering gear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Tie rod balljoint locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
Tie-rod balljoint taper pin nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
Steering column upper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3
Chapter 10 Steering
Description and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Fault finding - steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See end of Chapter
Steering angles and front wheel alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Steering column lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Steering gear - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Steering rack - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering rack gaiter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tie-rod end balljoint - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
10•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 Description and
maintenance
1
1The steering gear is of rack and pinion type
with a universally-jointed column which
incorporates a steering lock and ignition
switch.
2The steering wheel is of two spoke type on
all models except the SX which has four
spokes.
3The system is maintenance-free except to
check occasionally the pinch-bolts.4At the intervals specified in“Routine
Maintenance”carefully inspect the rack gaiters
for splits, particularly at the bottom of the
vees, as a split here can often go unnoticed.
5Check the tie-rod balljoints for wear. To dothis, have an assistant turn the steering wheel
repeatedly in both directions through an arc of
about 10 or 15 degrees. Observe the balljoints
for lost motion or slackness. If evident, renew
the balljoint as described in Section 2
Fig. 10.1 Sectional view of steering gear (Sec 1)

2 Tie-rod end balljoint-
renewal
4
1Jack up the front of the car and remove the
roadwheel from the side on which the balljoint
is to be renewed.
2Unscrew the tie-rod balljoint taper pin nut
and, using a suitable extractor, separate the
tie-rod balljoint from the eye of the steering
arm (photo).
3Release the locknut on the tie-rod,
unscrewing it only just enough to be able to
unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod.
4With the tie-rod end removed, wire brush
the threads on the tie-rod without disturbing
the position of the locknut; apply grease to
the threads and screw on the new tie-rod end
until the locknut can be tightened by turning it
through the same amount of rotation it was
given when unscrewed.
5Reconnect the balljoint taper pin to the eye
of the steering arm and tighten the retaining nut
to the specified torque. Never grease the taper
pin or eye; the pin will otherwise turn when the
nut is tightened. If a taper pin is inclined to
rotate when a nut is being tightened, apply
pressure to the socket of the joint to force the
taper pin into closer contact with the tapered
hole in the eye. If a taper pin is pointing
downward, a strong lever can be used to apply
the extra pressure. Where the taper pin of a
balljoint points upward, a jack placed under the
joint socket will produce the desired result.
6Although the careful fitting of the new
tie-rod end will have approximatelymaintained the original front wheel alignment
of the car, manufacturing differences alone of
the new component make it essential to
check the setting, as described in Section 8
and to adjust if necessary.
3 Steering rack gaiter-
renewal
4
1If lubricant is found to be leaking from the
gaiters (at the ends of the housing), first check
that the gaiter clips are secure.
2If the lubricant is leaking from the gaiter
through a split, the gaiter can be removed in
the following way, without the necessity of
withdrawing the gear from the car.
3Remove the tie-rod end from the side
concerned, as described in the preceding
Section.
4Release the gaiter clips; draw the gaiter
from the rack housing and off the tie-rod.
5If the gaiter has only just split, road dirt is
unlikely to have entered and lubricant can be
wiped away. If it is severely grit contaminated,
the steering gear should be completely
removed, the original lubricant flushed out
and new lubricant pumped in.
6If the gear does not have to be removed
from the car, slide the new gaiter into position
and secure it with the inboard clip.
7The rack lubricant is molybdenum
disulphide type grease.
8When recharging the gaiter with this type of
lubricant, give full steering lock to the side
being replenished so that the extendedsection of the rack will take the grease into the
housing as it returns.
9Reconnect the tie-rod end to the tie-rod
and the eye of the steering arm. Provided the
locknut is tightened by only rotating it through
the same distance by which it was loosened,
the front wheel alignment (tracking) should not
have been unduly disturbed. Even so, check
the alignment as described in Section 8.
4 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Set the steering wheel and the front
roadwheels in the straight-ahead attitude.
Prise out the hub plate (photo).
3Unscrew and remove the steering wheel
securing nut, then pull the wheel from the
column shaft. If it is tight on its splines, tap it
upward at the wheel rim, using the palms of
the hands.
4Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process; make sure that the spokes of the
wheel are in the lower part of the wheel.
5Tighten the securing nut to the specified
torque.
5 Steering column- removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
1Remove the steering wheel as previously
described.
2Extract the screws from the underside of
the steering column upper shroud and then lift
off the upper and lower shroud sections
(photo). Where applicable, detach and remove
the trim panel from the underside of the facia
on the driver’s side.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Disconnect the wiring plug for the steering
column combination switch.
5Unscrew the clamp nuts and pull the
combination switch off the end of the steering
shaft.
6Unscrew the column upper mounting
bracket bolts and lower the shaft/column tube
to rest on the seat (photo).
7Remove the pinch-bolt from the lower
universal joint coupling and remove the
shaft/column tube from the car.
Overhaul
8Remove the pinch-bolt from the upper
universal joint and disconnect the lower shaft.
9Grip the tube mounting flange in the jaws of
a vice and relieve the staking at the base of
the tube.
10Using a plastic or copper-faced hammer,
tap the shaft down out of the tube.
11The lower bush will be ejected while the
upper one should be prised out of the tube.
12Reassemble the upper shaft into the tube
by tapping new bushes into position.
10•2 Steering
5.6 Steering column upper mounting5.2 Removing steering column shrouds
4.2 Removing steering wheel hub plate2.2 Disconnecting a tie-rod end balljoint

13Stake the lower end of the tube to retain
the bush.
14Reassembly is a reversal of removal,
noting that the universal joint coupling
pinch-bolts should pass smoothly through the
grooves in the steering shaft.
15Fit the steering wheel when the
roadwheels are in the straight-ahead position.
16Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the battery.
6 Steering rack-
removal and refitting
4
1Set the steering in the straight-ahead
mode.
2Working inside the car, disconnect thesteering shaft lower coupling by unscrewing
and removing the pinch-bolt (photo).
3Disconnect the tie-rod end balljoints from
the steering arms as described earlier in this
Chapter.
4Unscrew and remove the rack clamp
mounting bolts and withdraw the steering
gear from the car crossmember (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion check the front wheel alignment
as described in Section 8.
7 Steering gear- overhaul
4
1A worn steering gear should not be
overhauled, but a new or factory
reconditioned unit fitted.
2After a high mileage, the following
adjustment may be needed however.
Rack damper - adjustment
3The slipper in the rack housing presses the
rack into mesh with the pinion. This cuts out
any backlash between the gears. Also, due to
its pressure, it introduces some stiffness into
the rack, which cuts out excessive reaction
from the road to the steering wheel.
4In due course, wear reduces the pressures
exerted by the slipper. The pressure is
controlled by the cover plate and a spring.
5The need for resetting of the slipper is not
easy to detect. On bumpy roads, the shockinduced through the steering will give a feeling
of play, and sometimes faint clonking can be
heard. In extreme cases, free play in the
steering may be felt, though this is rare. If the
steering is compared with that of a new rack
on another car, the lack of friction damping is
quite apparent in the ease of movement of the
steering wheel of the worn one.
6Centralise the steering rack. Do this by
counting the number of turns lock-to-lock and
then turning the steering wheel from one lock
through half the number of turns counted.
7Take the cover plate off the damping
slipper, remove the spring and shims, and refit
the cover plate.
8Screw in the cover plate bolts just enough
to hold the slipper against the rack.
9Measure the gap between the cover plate
and the rack housing using feeler blades.
10Select shims from the thicknesses
available (0.10, 0.125 and 0.30 mm) to provide
a shim pack thicker than the gap by between
0.05 and 0.13 mm.
11Remove the cover plate, fit the spring and
bolt on the cover plate with the selected shims.
8 Steering angles and front
wheel alignment
4
1Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
to provide good steering and roadholding char-
acteristics and to ensure slow and even tyre
Steering 10•3
Fig. 10.4 Renewing steering shaft bushes
(Sec 5)Fig. 10.3 Unscrewing combination switch
clamp nuts (Sec 5)Fig. 10.2 Removing steering column
shroud screws (Sec 5)
Fig. 10.6 Camber angle (Sec 8)
A Vertical line B Camber angle (positive)Fig. 10.5 Sectional view of rack damper
(Sec 7)6.4 Steering rack housing at pinion end
10
6.2 Steering shaft coupling

Note: Before diagnosing steering faults, be
sure that trouble is not due to incorrect or
uneven tyre pressures, inappropriate tyre
combinations, or braking system or
suspension defects.
Car pulls to one side
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Vibration at steering wheel
m
mRoadwheels out of balance or loose
m mTyre damage
m mLoose driveshaft-to-hub nuts
Car wanders
m
mPlay in steering gear
m mWear in steering balljoints
Heavy or stiff steering
m
mLack of lubricant in steering gear or balljoints
m mIncorrect steering geometry
m mCollision damage
Play at steering wheel
m
mWear in steering rack or balljoints
m mLoose steering shaft coupling pinch-bolt or
worn splines
m mWorn steering column/shaft universal joints
Rattles from steering
m
mSteering damper defective or in need of
adjustment
m mLoose steering column mounting bolts
m mLoose steering column/shaft coupling
pinch-bolts
m mLoose steering rack housing mounting bolts
m mWorn steering shaft bushes
Excessive or uneven tyre wear
m
mIncorrect steering geometry
m mWorn steering components
m mCollision damage wear. Before considering the steering angles,
check that the tyres are correctly inflated, that
the front wheels are not buckled, the hub
bearings are not worn or incorrectly adjusted
and that the steering linkage is in good order,
without slackness or wear at the joints.
2Wheel alignment consists of four factors:
Camber, is the angle at which the road
wheels are set from the vertical when viewed
from the front or rear of the vehicle. Positive
camber is the angle (in degrees) that the wheels
are tilted outwards at the top from the vertical.
Castor, is the angle between the steering
axis and a vertical line when viewed from each
side of the vehicle. Positive castor is indicated
when the steering axis is inclined towards the
rear of the vehicle at its upper end.
Steering axis inclination, is the angle when
viewed from the front or rear of the vehicle
between vertical and an imaginary line drawn
between the upper and lower suspension
strut mountings.
Toe,is the amount by which the distance
between the front inside edges of the
roadwheel rims differs from that between the
rear inside edges.
3If the distance between the front edges is
less than that at the rear, the wheels are said
to toe-in. If the distance between the front
inside edges is greater than that at the rear,
the wheels toe-out.
4Camber and castor are set during
production of the car and are not adjustable.
Any deviation from specification will be due tocollision damage or to gross wear in the
components concerned.
5To check the front wheel alignment, first
make sure that the lengths of both tie-rods are
equal when the steering is in the straight-ahead
position. Measure between the locknut at the
balljoint and the ball cup at the end of the rack
housing by passing a thin rod under the rack of
the gaiter. If adjustment is required, release the
locknut and turn the tie-rod.
6Obtain a tracking gauge. These are
available in various forms from accessory
stores or one can be fabricated from a length
of steel tubing suitably cranked to clear the
sump and bellhousing and having a setscrew
and locknut at one end.
7With the gauge, measure the distance
between the two wheel inner rims (at hub
height) at the rear of the wheel. Push the
vehicle forward to rotate the wheel through
180º (half a turn) and measure the distance
between the wheel inner rims, again at hub
height, at the front of the wheel. This last
measurement should differ from (be less than)
the first by the appropriate toe-in according to
the Specification (see Specifications Section).
8Where the toe-in is found to be incorrect,
release the tie-rod balljoint locknuts and turn
the tie-rods equally. Only turn them a quarter
of a turn at a time before re-checking the
alignment. Viewed from the centre line of the
car, turning the tie-rod clockwise will
decrease the toe-in.
9Make sure that the gaiter outboard clip isreleased otherwise the gaiter will twist as the
tie-rod is rotated.
10Always turn both rods in the same
direction when viewed from the centre line of
the vehicle otherwise the rods will become
unequal in length. This would cause the
steering wheel spoke position to alter and
cause problems on turns with tyre scrubbing.
11On completion, tighten the tie-rod balljoint
locknuts without altering their setting. Check
that the balljoint is at the centre of its arc of
travel and then retighten the gaiter clip.
9 Steering column lock-
removal and refitting
1
1Remove the steering wheel and column
shrouds as described in Section 5, also the
steering column combination switch.
2Unscrew and remove the steering column
mounting bolts and lower the column to
expose the lock shear bolts.
3Drill out the bolts or extract them using an
extractor.
4Refer to Chapter 4 for details of separation
of the ignition switch from the lock section.
5When fitting the new lock, tighten the shear
bolts until their heads break off.
6Bolt up the column, fit the combination
switch, shrouds and steering wheel and
tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
10•4 Steering
Fig. 10.9 Steering column lock shear bolts
(arrowed) (Sec 9)
Fig. 10.8 Front wheel alignment diagram
(Sec 8)
X Front dimension Y - X = Toe-in
Y Rear dimension
Fig. 10.7 Castor angle (Sec 8)
A Vertical line B Castor angle (positive)
Fault finding - steering