fold seats FIAT UNO 1983 Service Repair Manual

tightened, refit the five smaller (M8 x 1.25)
bolts adjacent to the line of the spark plug
holes and tighten them to their specified
torque wrench setting (photo).
123Reconnect the associated fittings to the
cylinder head in the reverse order of removal.
Ensure that the mating faces of the exhaust
manifold-to-downpipe are clean and fit a new
gasket when reconnecting.
124Ensure that all wiring connections are
cleanly and securely made.
125Top up the engine oil and coolant levels
as required on completion.
Cylinder head
(1372 cc Turbo ie engine)
- removal and refitting
#
126Proceed as described in paragraphs 102
to 125 above for the non-Turbo model, but
note the following differences.127The cylinder head cannot be removed
and refitted with the manifolds and
turbocharger fitted. It is therefore first
necessary to detach and remove the inlet
manifold, then the turbocharger and the
exhaust manifold as described in Section 9.
128The ignition distributor is mounted on the
side of the engine, not the rear end of the
cylinder head as on the “ie” engine. It is
therefore only necessary to disconnect the HT
leads from the spark plugs.
Cylinder head - inspection
and renovation¢
Note: Refer to a dealer for advice before
attempting to carry out valve grinding or seat
recutting operations. These operations may
not be possible for the DIY mechanic due to
the fitment of hardened valve seats for use
with unleaded petrol.129Use a straight-edge to check the cylinder
head gasket surface for distortion. If it
exceeds the specified tolerance, it must be
resurfaced by a FIAT dealer or automotive
engineer.
130Refer to Section 39 in Chapter 1 for the
general details on dismantling and renovating
operations on the cylinder head but note that
there is a spring seat and a flat washer fitted
between the cylinder head and the valve
springs (photos).
Crankshaft front oil seal -
removal and renewal#
131Remove the timing belt as described
earlier in this Section. Note that as mentioned
previously, the timing belt will need to be
renewed during reassembly.
132Referring to Fig. 13.18, loosen off the bolt
indicated from the timing belt rear cover.
13•44 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
7B.130H . . . the outer spring . . .7B.130G . . . the inner spring . . .7B130F . . . locate the spring seat . . .
7B.130E Refit the flat washer . . .7B.130D . . . and drive it into position7B.130C . . . locate stem oil seal . . .
7B.130B Valve assembly - 1372 cc engine;
insert valve into guide . . .7B.130A Inlet (A) and exhaust (B) valves
and associate components - 1372 cc
engine7B.122 Tighten the smaller cylinder head
bolts to their specified torque setting

bearing caps with a soft non-fluffy rag, then fit
the lower halves of the bearing shells to their
seats. Again, note that the centre (No. 3)
bearing shell is plain, whereas all the other
shells have oil grooves (photo).
9Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil (photo).
10Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
crankcase (photo). If necessary, seat the
crankshaft using light taps with a
rubber-faced hammer on the crankshaft
balance webs.
11Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, the fit the No. 1 bearing cap.
Fit the two securing bolts, and tighten them as
far as possible by hand.
12Fit the No. 5 bearing cap, and as before
tighten the bolts as far as possible by hand.
13Fit the centre and then the intermediate
bearing caps, and again tighten the bolts as
far as possible by hand.
14Check that the markings on the bearing
caps are correctly orientated as noted during
dismantling - ie the identification grooves
should face towards the timing side of the
engine, then working from the centre cap
outwards in a progressive sequence, finally
tighten the bolts to the specified torque
(photo).
15Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
components, but there should be no tight
spots or binding.16Check that crankshaft endfloat is within
the specified limits, as described in paragraph
70 of Part C in this Section.
17Examine the condition of the front and
rear crankshaft oil seals and renew if
necessary with reference to Part B of this
Section. It is advisable to renew the oil seals
as a matter of course unless they are in
perfect condition.
18Lubricate the oil seal lips with clean
engine oil, then carefully fit the front and rear
oil seal housings using new gaskets.
Pistons and connecting rods -
refitting
19Refer to Part B of this Section.
Oil pump - refitting
20Refer to Part B of this Section.
Sump - refitting
21Refer to Part B of this Section.
Flywheel - refitting
22Refer to Part B of this Section. When the
flywheel is bolted in position, refer to Chapter
5 for details and refit the clutch unit.
Auxiliary shaft - refitting
23Refer to Part C of this Section.
Cylinder head - refitting
24Refer to Part B of this Section. Note that
this procedure describes cylinder head
refitting complete with the camshaft housingassembly and manifolds as a complete unit.
Details of refitting the camshaft housing (and
followers) to the cylinder head will be found
separately in Part B.
Timing belt and covers -
refitting
25Refer to Part B of this Section.
Engine/transmission -
reconnection and refitting#
Note: A suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be
required for this operation. New locktabs will
be required for the exhaust
downpipe-to-manifold nuts, and suitable
exhaust assembly paste, will be required when
reconnecting the downpipes to the exhaust
manifold.
26Before attempting to reconnect the
engine to the gearbox, check that the clutch
friction disc is centralised as described in
Chapter 5, Section 8. This is necessary to
ensure that the gearbox input shaft splines
will pass through the splines in the centre of
the friction disc.
27Check that the clutch release arm and
bearing are correctly fitted, and lightly grease
the input shaft splines.
28Mate the engine and gearbox together,
ensuring that the engine adapter plate is
correctly located, and that the gearbox
locates on the dowels in the cylinder block,
then refit the engine-to-gearbox bolts and the
single nut, but do not fully tighten them at this
stage. Ensure that any brackets noted during
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•53
7D.8 Locate the bearing shells into the
main bearing caps . . .7D.7B . . . sliding them into position each
side of the No. 5 main bearing
7DS.14 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts
to the specified torque setting7D.10 Lower the crankshaft into position7D.9 . . . and lubricate the shells
13
7D.7A Locate the thrust washer . . .

26Loosen off the knurled retaining nut and
remove the cover from the fuel pump relay.
This is located on the left-hand suspension
turret in the engine compartment (photo).
27Carefully pull free the fuel pump relay,
then start the engine and run it until it stops
(photo). The fuel system is now
depressurised. Turn the ignition off before
removing/dismantling any components.
28Do not refit the fuel pump relay or turn the
ignition on until the system is fully
reconnected. When the engine is ready to be
restarted, refit the relay and its cover, then
restart the engine in the normal manner.
Fuel pump and supply
system checks°
29Specialised equipment is required to
undertake accurate tests in the fuel supply
system and such checks must therefore be
entrusted to a FIAT dealer or a fuel injection
specialist. If the fuel pump is suspected of
malfunction, a basic check can be made by
removing the fuel filler cap then listening
through the filler pipe, get an assistant to turn
on the ignition whilst you listen to hear if the
pump is heard to operate in the tank. If the
pump fails to operate, check that the pump
fuse is sound and that its connection (and
also that of the relay) are clean and secure.
30The pump can be further checked by first
depressurising the fuel system as described in
the previous sub-Section, then disconnect the
fuel supply pipe at the injector unit and locateit in a suitable container. With the fuel pump
relay removed, connect up a suitable test lead
with a 7.5 amp (10 amp on models with
catalyst) fuse, in series, to the relay terminals
30 and 87, and check that fuel flows into the
container from the supply pipe (photo). If a
suitable pressure gauge is available for
connecting into the fuel line between the
engine compartment fuel filter and the
injection unit, check that the fuel pressure is
as specified at the beginning of this Chapter.
31If the pump fails to operate, check that the
battery is in good condition and that the pump
wiring connections are clean and secure
before condemning the pump. To remove the
pump unit from the fuel tank, proceed as
described in the following sub-Section.
Fuel pump -
removal and refittingÁ
32Release the pressure from the fuel system
as described previously.
33Move the front seats forward, then tilt the
rear seat cushions forward. Peel back the
luggage area floor cover from the right-hand
side towards the centre to expose the access
cover above the pump/sender unit in the floor.
Remove the access cover.
34Detach the wiring connectors from the
pump unit and the fuel level sender unit.
35Loosen off the hose retaining clips and
detach the fuel supply and return hoses from
the pump unit connections. Mark the hosesfor identity to avoid incorrect attachment
during refitting.
36Unscrew the retaining nuts then carefully
lift out and withdraw the fuel pump/level
sender unit from the fuel tank.
37Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. A new seal gasket must be used
and it is important to ensure that all
connections are securely and correctly made.
Injector unit -
removal and refittingÁ
38Depressurise the fuel system as
described previously, then disconnect the
battery negative lead.
39Remove the air cleaner unit and the
rubber seal (photo).
40Disconnect the engine idle speed check
actuator lead and the throttle position switch
lead from the side faces of the injector unit.
41Undo the retaining clips and detach the
fuel supply and return hose from the injector
unit. If crimped type retaining clips are fitted,
they will have to be carefully cut free and new
screw type clips obtained to replace them.
Take care not to cut into the hoses when
releasing the crimped type clips.
42Detach the crankcase ventilation hose
from the fuel injector unit.
43Disconnect the accelerator linkage at the
throttle lever on the injector unit.
44Undo the four retaining screws and lift the
injector unit from the inlet manifold. Remove
the gasket (photo).
45Clean the injector unit and the inlet
manifold mating faces.
46Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Intake air temperature
sensor - removal and
refitting
Á
47The air temperature sensor is located in
the top of the injector unit. It is basically a
resistor which varies its value in accordance
with the air temperature entering the induction
circuit from the air filter. The sensor can then
transmit the registered air temperature at this
point to the ECU temperature sensor (2).
48Remove the air cleaner unit and its
mounting bracket in the injector.
49Disconnect the wiring connector from the
13•76 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9D.44 Injector unit retaining screws
(arrowed)9D.39 Removing the filter seal from the
injector unit
9D.30 Test lead connected to relay
terminals 30 and 879D.27 Fuel pump relay removal9D.26 Fuel pump relay (1), injection control
relay (2), Lambda sensor fuse (3) and pump
fuse (4) with cover (5) removed