fuel filter location FIAT UNO 1983 Service Repair Manual
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Page 38 of 303
5In practice, if several shims have to be
changed, they can often be interchanged, so
avoiding the necessity of having to buy more
new shims than is necessary.
6If more than two or three valve clearances
are found to be incorrect, it will be more
convenient to remove the camshaft carrier for
easier removal of the shims.
7Where no clearance can be measured, even
with the thinnest available shim in position,
the valve will have to be removed and the end
of its stem ground off squarely. This will
reduce its overall length by the minimum
amount to provide a clearance. This job
should be entrusted to your dealer as it is
important to keep the end of the valve stem
square.
8On completion, refit the camshaft cover and
gasket.
27 Camshaft and camshaft
carrier- removal and refitting
3
1Disconnect the battery.
2Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 3).
3Disconnect the fuel filter hose from the fuel
pump and tie it back, out of the way.
4Identify and then disconnect any electrical
leads which must be moved away to enable
the camshaft cover to be withdrawn.
5Identify and disconnect any vacuum gases
which must be moved away to enable the
camshaft cover to be withdrawn.
6Unscrew the securing nuts and remove the
camshaft cover.
7Turn the crankshaft pulley nut until No. 4
piston is at TDC. This can be established as
described in Section 28.
8Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
9Check that the timing mark on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with, and adjacent to the
pointer on the timing belt cover backplate.
10Restrain the timing belt with the hand and
release but do not remove the camshaft
sprocket bolt. Release the belt tensioner
pulley by slackening the pulley centre nut.
Push the timing belt evenly from the
sprockets, noting which way round the belt isfitted if it is to be completely removed. The
lettering on the belt is normally legible from
the crankshaft pulley end of the engine when
the belt is as originally fitted.
11Unbolt the camshaft carrier and lift it
sufficiently from the cylinder head to break the
seal of the mating faces. Note: It is important
not to allow the cam followers to pull out; they
must be retained in their original locations.
This can be done if the carrier is raised very
slowly, until the fingers can be inserted to
prise the cam followers onto their respective
valve spring retainers. It is unlikely that the
valve clearance adjusting shims will be
displaced from their recesses in the cam
followers because of the suction of the
lubricating oil, but watch that this does not
happen; the shims must also be retained in
their originally fitted sequence.
12Remove the previously loosened
camshaft sprocket bolt and take the sprocket
from the camshaft.
13Unbolt and remove the camshaft end
cover with its gasket. Withdraw the camshaft
(photos).
14Refitting is a reversal of the removal
process, but observe the following points.
15Use new gaskets.
16Retain the cam followers and shims in
their bores in the camshaft carrier with thick
grease; they must not be allowed to drop out
when the carrier is lowered onto the cylinder
head.
17If the crankshaft or camshaft have been
moved from their set positions, re-align the
sprocket timing mark with the pointer on the
belt cover and the crankshaft pulley or
flywheel with the TDC mark. This must be
observed otherwise the valves may impinge
upon the piston crowns when the camshaft
lobes compress any of the valve springs
during bolting down of the carrier.
18Screw in the carrier bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque (photo).
19Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 28.
20Refit the camshaft cover and gasket.
21Refit the hose and air cleaner.
22Reconnect the battery.
28 Timing belt- renewal
3
1Set No. 4 piston at TDC. Do this by turning
the crankshaft pulley nut or by jacking up a
front roadwheel, engaging a gear and turning
the wheel until the mark on the flywheel is
opposite to the TDC mark on the flywheel
bellhousing aperture. Remove No. 4 spark
plug, place a finger over the plug hole and feel
the compression being generated as the
crankshaft is rotated and the piston rises up
the cylinder bore.
2On some models the TDC marks on the
crankshaft pulley and belt cover may be
visible and can be used instead.
3Remove the alternator drivebelt (Chapter 2,
Section 8). Unbolt and remove the timing belt
cover.
4Check that the timing mark on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the pointer on the belt
cover backing plate (photo).
5Slacken the nut in the centre of the
tensioner pulley and push in on the support to
release the tension on the belt, then retighten
the nut. Slide the drivebelt off the pulleys.
6Check that the crankshaft and camshaft
pulleys have not been moved from their
previously aligned positions.
7To check that the auxiliary shaft sprocket
has not moved, take off the distributor cap
and check that the contact end of the rotor
arm is aligned with No. 4 HT lead contact in
the cap.
1•24 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
28.4 Camshaft sprocket alignment marks
27.18 Tightening a camshaft carrier bolt27.13B Withdrawing camshaft from carrier27.13A Removing camshaft end cover
Page 43 of 303
6Remove the spring seat (photo).
7Discard the valve stem oil seal and fit a new
one (photo).
8Remove the remaining valves in a similar
way and keep the components in their
originally fitted sequence.
9Reassembly is a reversal of removal. Refit
the components to their original positions, but
renew the valve springs if their free length is
less than that of a new spring or if the
springs have been in operation for more than
80 000 km (50 000 miles).
10The original valve clearance adjusting
shims will no longer provide the correct
clearances if the valves have been ground in
or the seats recut. Only where dismantling of
a valve was carried out to renew a spring is
there any purpose in returning the shims to
their original locations. Try to obtain the loan
of eight thin shims from your dealer and insert
them into the tappets (cam followers) before
assembling the cam followers to the carrier,
where they should be retained with thick
grease (photo).
11Fit the camshaft carrier, complete with
cam followers and shims to the cylinder head.
12Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 26.
40 Examination and renovation
4
1The procedures are similar to those
described in Section 18 covering the
following:
Cylinder block and crankcase
Crankshaft and bearings
Pistons and piston rings
Flywheel
2The following additional items must also be
examined.
Oil pump
3Carefully, clamp the pump housing in a
vice, shaft downwards.
4Take off the pump cover, with the suction
pipe. This will release the oil pressure relief
valve inside. Also inside is a filter.
5Remove the internal cover plate.6Take out the driveshaft and the gears.
7Clean and examine all the parts. Measure
the clearances against the Specifications. The
end clearance is measured by putting a
straight-edge across the cover face.
8The oil pump should only need
replacements after very long mileage, when
the rest of the engine is showing great signs
of wear.
9The length of a new gear can be measured
against the old gear to see if a new gear will
restore the end clearance to the Specifica-
tions. Otherwise the housing must be
changed.
10The driven gear shaft is mounted in the
housing with an interference fit. If there is any
slackness, a new housing (which will come
with shaft fitted) must be used.
11The oil pump shares its drive with the
distributor.
Camshaft, cam followers and
shims
12The camshaft journals and cams should
be smooth, without grooves or scores.
13Wear in the camshaft carrier bearings can
only be rectified by renewal of the carrier.
14Cam follower wear is usually very small
and when they show slackness in their bores,
it is probably the light alloy of the camshaft
carrier which has worn.
15Always measure the thickness of the valve
clearance shims using a metric micrometer.
Any grooving or wear marks in the shims
should be rectified by renewal with ones of
similar thickness.
Auxiliary shaft
16The shaft journals, the fuel pump
eccentric, and the drivegear for the distributor
and oil pump should be smooth and shiny. If
not, the shaft will have to be renewed.
17The bushes should still be tight in the
cylinder block, their oil holes lined up with
those in the block.
18Measure the bearing clearance. If
excessive, the bushes will have to be
renewed. They are a press fit, and require
reaming with a special reamer after fitting.
This is a job best done by a Fiat agent with the
special tools.
19Ensure the new bushes are fitted with the
oil holes lined up.
20Also check the driven gear and its bush.
21It is recommended a new oil seal is fitted
in the endplate. Hold the shaft in a vice, and
remove the pulley. Fit the new oil seal in the
endplate, lips inwards.
Timing belt tensioner
22Check the bearing revolves smoothly and
freely, and has no play. Do not immerse it in
cleaning fluid, as it is partially sealed. Wipe
the outside, and then smear in some new
general purpose grease.
23The action of the spring will have been felt
when the belt was taken off. It should be
cleaned, and oiled, to prevent seizure through
dirt and rust.
24Note the circlip on the engine right-hand
mounting bracket. This retains the timing belt
tensioner plunger.
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•29
39.6 Valve spring seat39.5 Removing a valve39.4B Double valve springs
39.10 Cam followers fitted to camshaft
carrier39.7 Valve stem oil seal
1
Page 154 of 303
can be lowered to rest on the exhaust and
bodymember.
34Continue to raise the engine and the
transmission until it can be removed from the
engine compartment and placed on the work
surface (photo).
35Clean the exterior of the engine and
transmission by steam cleaning or using a
water soluble solvent.
36Unbolt and remove the starter motor.
37Unscrew the flywheel housing-to-engine
flange bolts. Note the location of the engine
lifting lug.
38Unbolt and remove the lower cover plate
from the flywheel housing.
39Pull the transmission from the engine. It is
located by two hollow dowels and one stud
(photo).
Dismantling - general
40Refer to Chapter 1, Section 14.
Complete dismantling#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
41Unbolt and remove the camshaft cover.
42Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
43Remove the distributor (Section 10).
44Remove the hot air collector and the
exhaust manifold.
45Release, disconnect and remove the
coolant distribution pipe from the rear of the
coolant pump.46Unscrew and discard the oil filter
cartridge.
47Unbolt the thermostat housing, discard
the joint gasket.
48Remove the fuel pump, together with its
insulator block and actuating pushrod, if
applicable.
49Remove the carburettor, or throttle body,
as appropriate.
50Remove the inlet manifold and discard the
joint gasket.
51Remove the alternator and its drivebelt
and withdraw the engine oil dipstick.
52Unbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.
53Unbolt and remove the timing belt
tensioner.
54Remove the timing belt.
55Unbolt and remove the coolant pump.
56Remove the cylinder head.
57Remove and discard the cylinder head
gasket.
58Remove the clutch.
59Lock the flywheel starter ring gear teeth
and remove the crankshaft sprocket bolt and
sprocket.
60Unbolt and remove the sump pan,
then the exhaust pipe support bracket
(photos).
61Prevent rotation of the crankshaft by
locking the starter ring gear teeth and then
unbolt and remove the flywheel. The flywheel
can only be fitted in one position as it is
located on a dowel.
62Remove the engine rear plate. Note thesmall socket-headed screw which holds the
timing index plate (photo).
63Unbolt and remove the oil pump pick-up
assembly, followed by the oil pump itself.
64Turn the engine on its side and remove
the piston/connecting rod assemblies.
65Stand the engine on its cylinder block
machined face, and then unbolt and remove
the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer. Discard
the gasket.
66Note the markings on the main bearing
caps. One line on the cap nearest the timing
belt, then two, C for centre cap, then three
and four (photo).
67The caps will only fit one way round.
68Unbolt the main bearing caps, removing
them with the shell bearings.
69Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and
remove the bearing half shells from the
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•29
5C.39 Separating the engine and
transmission5C.34 Lifting out the engine and
transmission5C.32 Right-hand engine mounting
brackets on body and engine
5C.66 Main bearing cap markings
5C.60A Removing the sump pan
5C.62 Unscrewing socket-head screw
from timing index plate5C.60B Exhaust pipe support bracket
attached to crankcase
13
Page 159 of 303
the crankcase to operate the oil pressure
gauge. In addition, a low oil pressure switch
screwed into the camshaft oil gallery actuates
a warning light on the instrument panel in theevent of the pressure dropping dangerously
low (photo).
10Oil supply/return ducts provide the
turbocharger lubrication.
PART B:
OPERATIONS POSSlBLE
WITH ENGINE IN CAR
Camshaft and camshaft
carrier - removal and
refitting
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
1Disconnect the battery, negative lead first.
2Disconnect its leads and unbolt the
distributor from the end of the camshaft, and
place it to one side.
3Disconnect the air intake hose from the
throttle valve housing.
4Disconnect the short throttle control cable
from its sector.
5Remove the throttle cable support bracket.
6Disconnect the earth leads from the
camshaft cover.
7Refer to Section 9, Part C of this
Supplement and remove the following
components.
Supplementary air valve
Inlet manifold with fuel pressure regulator
and excess pressure safety switch
Injector cooling duct
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the
Microplex ignition anti-knock sensor.
9Carry out the operations described in
Chapter 1, Section 27, paragraphs 4 to 12.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, referring
to Section 28 of Chapter 1 for the timing belt
refitting procedure, and to Chapter 1, Sec-
tion 27, paragraphs 15 to 18.
Cylinder head -
removal and refitting#
11Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 4 to 9 in the preceding
sub-Section, then refer to Chapter 1, Section
29, but ignore all references to the
carburettor.
12Note the distributor mounting cover.
13Four additional cylinder head bolts are
used on these engines, adjacent to the spark
plugs (photo). Note that their tightening torque
differs from the other cylinder head bolts - see
Specifications. These four bolts are tightened
13•34 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
1 Oil pick-up strainer
2 Oil pump
3 Oil pressure relief valve
4 Oil filter cartridge
5 Main oil gallery6 Camshaft oil feed
7 Low oil pressure switch
8 Engine oil cooler
9 Filter mounting base
10 Turbocharger oil feed11 Turbocharger oil return
12 Oil pressure sender unit
13 Oil temperature sender
unit
14 Piston oil spray nozzle
Fig. 13.12 Piston oil spray nozzle locations - 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 6A)
Letters denote cylinder bore grade
Fig. 13.11 1301 cc Turbo ie engine lubrication system (Sec 6A)
6A.9 Oil pressure sender unit
Page 162 of 303
Initial start-up after major
overhaul
28Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45, but note
that an oil pressure gauge is fitted to indicate
oil pressure.
29Check the ignition static timing as
described in Section 10.
30Check the engine idle speed and CO level
as described in Section 9.
7 Engine-
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc
Turbo ie
PART A: GENERAL
Description
1The 1372 cc engine is similar in design to
the OHC engine fitted to the FIAT Tipo
variants. The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line,
overhead camshaft type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle.
2The crankshaft runs in five main bearings.
Thrustwashers are fitted to the rear (flywheel
end) main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
3The connecting rods are attached to the
crankshaft by horizontally split shell-type
big-end bearings. The pistons are attached to
the connecting rods by fully-floating gudgeon
pins which are secured by circlips. The
aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three
piston rings: two compression rings and an oil
control ring.
4The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt
and operates the valves via bucket and shim
type cam followers. The camshaft is located in
a separate housing on top of the cylinder
head.
5The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by double valve springs, and operate
in guides pressed into the cylinder head.
6The auxiliary shaft, which is also driven by
the toothed belt, drives the oil pump.
7Lubrication is by means of a gear type
pump which draws oil through a strainer
located in the sump, and forces it through a
full-flow filter into the engine oil galleries fromwhere it is distributed to the crankshaft,
camshaft and auxiliary shaft. The big-end
bearings are supplied with oil via internal
drillings in the crankshaft. The undersides of
the pistons are cooled by oil spray nozzles
located in each main bearing location in the
crankcase.
8A crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn via an oil separator into the air cleaner,
from where they are drawn into the inlet
manifold and re-burnt with fresh air/fuel
mixture.
9The 1372 cc ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
Mono-Jetronic single point fuel injection (SPi)
system. Whilst the higher performance
1372 cc Turbo ie engine is fitted with a Bosch
L3.1 (L3.2 from 1992) Jetronic multi-point
injection (MPi) system and turbocharger with
intercooler and oil cooling. The L3.2 system
models are fitted with catalytic converters.
Maintenanceª
10At the intervals specified in Section 3 or
“Routine maintenance” at the beginning of
this Manual, carry out the following tasks.
11Check the engine oil level as follows. With
the vehicle parked on level ground, and with
the engine having been stopped for a few
minutes, withdraw the oil level dipstick, wipe it
on a clean rag, and re-insert it fully. Withdraw
the dipstick again and read off the oil level
relative to the MAX and MIN marks. The oil
level should be between the marks. If the level
is at or below the MIN mark, top up through
the filler on the camshaft cover without delay
(photo). The quantity of oil required to raise
the level from MIN to MAX on the dipstick is
approximately 1.0 litre (1.8 pints). Do not
overfill.
12Renew the engine oil and filter as
described in Section 2 of Chapter 1 (photos).
13Check and if necessary adjust the valve
clearances as described in Part B of this
Section.
14Inspect the engine for signs of oil, coolant
or fuel leaks and rectify as necessary.
15Inspect the crankcase ventilation hose for
blockage or damage. Clean or renew as
necessary.
16Check the condition and tension of thetiming belt as described in Part B of this
Section.
17Renew the timing belt as described in
Part B of this Section.
PART B:
OPERATIONS POSSlBLE
WITH ENGINE IN CAR
Valve clearances -
checking and adjustment#
1It is important to ensure that the valve
clearances are set correctly, as incorrect
clearances will result in incorrect valve timing
thus affecting engine performance.
2The clearances must be checked and
adjusted with the engine cold.
3On the ie engine, refer to Section 9 in this
Chapter for details and remove the air cleaner
unit.
4On the ie engine disconnect the crankcase
ventilation hose from the injector unit and
position the hose out of the way.
5On Turbo ie engines, loosen off the clips
and remove the air hose to the inlet manifold
(above the camshaft cover).
6On Turbo ie engines, disconnect the
accelerator cable from the throttle housing
and the support bracket on the camshaft
cover.
7Unscrew the securing nuts and washers
and remove the camshaft cover, noting that
on later models two of the nuts also secure
the hose clip assembly. Recover the gasket.
8Numbering from the front (timing belt) end
of the engine, the exhaust valves are 1, 4, 5
and 8, and the inlet valves are 2, 3, 6 and 7.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•37
7A.12B Engine oil filter removal using a
strap wrench - 1372 cc engine7A.12A Engine sump drain plug - 1372 cc
engine7A.11 Topping up the engine oil level -
1372 cc engine
Fig. 13.15 Engine oil level dipstick location
and level markings on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7A)
13
Page 176 of 303
fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission and positioned out of the way.
Enlist the aid of an assistant to help steady
and guide the power unit down through the
engine compartment as it is removed, If
available, position a suitable engine trolley or
crawler board under the engine/transmission
so that when lowered, the power unit can be
withdrawn from the front end of the vehicle
and moved to the area where it is to be
cleaned and dismantled.
38Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
withdraw the power unit from under the
vehicle.
39To separate the engine from the
transmission, unbolt and remove the starter
motor, then unscrew the retaining bolts and
withdraw the transmission from the engine. As
it is withdrawn, do not allow the weight of the
engine or transmission to be taken by the
input shaft.
40To remove the clutch unit, refer to
Chapter 5 for details.
1372 cc Turbo ie
engine/transmission -
removal and separation
#
41The engine and transmission removal and
refitting details for Turbo-engined models are
similar to those described for the non-Turbo
models in the previous sub-Section, but the
following differences should be noted.
42To provide access for the disconnection
of the turbo and related components, first
remove the inlet manifold. Removal of the inlet
manifold and the turbocharger is described in
Section 9 of this Chapter.
43The ignition distributor on the Turbo
engine is driven from the auxiliary shaft and is
mounted at the front of the engine, towards
the timing cover end.
44The right-hand driveshaft has a steady
bearing and this will need to be unbolted and
detached.
Engine dismantling - general
45Refer to Chapter 1, Section 14 for details.
Auxiliary shaft - removal,
inspection and refitting #
46Remove the engine and transmission from
the vehicle as described previously in this
Section part.
47Drain the engine oil and remove the sump
as described in Part B of this Section.
48Remove the oil pump as described in Part
B of this Section.
49Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket as described in Part B of this
Section.
50Unscrew the three retaining bolts and
remove the auxiliary shaft cover. Remove the
gasket.
51Withdraw the auxiliary shaft from the
cylinder block.
52Examine the shaft and its bearing bushes
in the cylinder block for signs of excessive
wear and/or damage and renew it if
necessary. Bush renewal is described in
paragraph 79 in this Section.
53The cover gasket and the oil seal should
always be renewed whenever the cover is
removed. To renew the seal, support the
cover on blocks of wood and drive out the old
seal using a suitable drift inserted in the
cut-out in the back of the cover. Clean the
seal location in the housing. Drive the new
seal into place using a suitable metal tube or
socket (photo). The sealing lip must face
towards the cylinder block. Smear the sealing
lips with clean engine oil before installation.
54Commence refitting by lubricating theauxiliary shaft journals with clean engine oil,
then insert the shaft into the cylinder block
(photo).
55Refit the auxiliary shaft cover, using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts
(photos).
56Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket, timing
belt, cover and crankshaft pulley as described
in Part B of this Section.
57Refit the engine and transmission with
reference to Part D of this Section.
Engine -
complete dismantling#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
58Detach and remove the following ancillary
items. Where applicable, refer to the
appropriate Chapter or Section within this
Chapter for more detailed removal instructions.
Engine oil dipstick
Ignition distributor and HT leads
Fuel pump
Alternator
Oil filter
Oil vapour recovery unit
Inlet and exhaust manifolds and associated
fuel injection components (as applicable)
Clutch unit
59Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the timing cover and drivebelt.
60Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the cylinder head unit.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•51
7C.54 Inserting the auxiliary shaft into the
cylinder block (rear timing belt cover
removed)7C.53 Driving a new oil seal into the
auxiliary shaft cover7C.36C Transmission front mounting
7C.55B . . . and tighten the securing bolts7C.55A Refit the auxiliary shaft cover with
a new gasket . . .
13
Page 189 of 303
Float level - checking and adjustment
28With the carburettor top cover held
vertically so that the float arm just touches the
fuel inlet needle valve ball, measure between
the float and the surface of the flange gasket
as shown in Fig. 13.36. If the dimension is not
within the specified tolerance, bend the float
tab which bears on the needle valve ball.
Fast idle - adjustment (requires
removal of the carburettor)
29Close the choke valve plate by moving the
control lever fully. Retain the lever in this
position with a rubber band.
30The throttle valve plate should now be
open to give a gap between its edge and the
progression holes as specified. Check the gap
using a twist drill of equivalent diameter.
31If adjustment is required, release the
locknut and turn the adjustment screw.
Retighten the locknut.
Automatic anti-flooding device -
adjustment
32Operate the choke valve plate lever fully.
33Move the control lever on the automatic
anti-flooding device downwards to simulate
vacuum pull-down. The choke butterfly
should open, leaving a gap (B - Fig 13.38) as
specified. Measure the gap with a twist drill of
equivalent diameter and make sure that the
choke valve plate is in the position shown. If
adjustment is required, turn the screw on the
diaphragm unit.
Carburettor
(Weber 30/32 DMTE) - general
34The carburettor is of twin barrel
downdraught type with a manually-operated
choke and an electronic fuel cut-off overrun
valve (photos).
35Periodically, remove the large hexagonal
plug from its location at the fuel inlet pipe
stubs, and clean any dirt from the filter gauge.
13•64 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.37 Fast idle adjustment -
Weber 32 TLF carburettor (Sec 9B)
A = 0.65 to 0.75 mm (0.026 to 0.030 in)Fig. 13.38 Automatic anti-flooding device
adjustment - Weber 32 TLF carburettor
(Sec 9B)
B = 4.5 mm (0.18 in)Fig. 13.36 Float level measurement -
Weber 32 TLF carburettor (Sec 9B)
A = 26.75 to 27.25 mm (1.05 to 1.07 in)
9B.26F Main parts of the Weber 32 TLF
carburettor
9B.26E Throttle valve block gasket on the
Weber 32 TLF carburettor9B.26D Extracting the throttle valve block
screws from the Weber 32 TLF carburettor9B.26C Fuel inlet valve body and washer
removal from the Weber 32 TLF
carburettor
9B.34A Weber 30/32 DMTE carburettor
from anti-flood device link side
Page 191 of 303
adjustments described in this sub-Section,
however, will require removal of the
carburettor.
39Disconnect the short, curved diaphragm
hose from the top cover.
40Extract the top cover screws, lift the cover
from the carburettor body, and rotate it in
order to release the cranked choke control
rod from its key hole (photo). Mop out the fuel
and clean the jets.
41Check the jet sizes and other components
against those listed in the Specifications, in
case a previous owner has substituted
incorrect components (photo).
42Overhaul procedures are generally as
given in Chapter 3, Section 14 for the Weber
30/32 DMTR, but use the Specifications listed
in this Chapter. Additional overhaul
procedures are given here.
Fuel inlet needle valve
43If a high float level causing flooding of the
carburettor has been evident, first check that
the inlet valve housing is tight, and its washer
is sealing satisfactorily. A leak here will cause
fuel to bypass the inlet valve.
44If the needle valve is to be renewed,
remove it in the following way.
45Access to the fuel inlet needle valve is
obtained by carefully tapping out the float arm
pivot pin. Take care, the pivot pin pillars are
very brittle (photo).
46Unscrew the fuel inlet valve body and
remove the valve and washer.47When refitting the new valve, always use a
new sealing washer.
Float stroke (travel) - see Fig. 3.10
48The float stroke should be between 42.5
and 43.5 mm when measured from the top
cover gasket. Adjust if necessary by bending
the tab on the end of the arm.
Accelerator pump
49Adjustment of the accelerator pump is
very rarely required, but if performance is
suspect, carry out the following operations.
50Fill the carburettor float chamber and then
operate the throttle valve plate lever several
times to prime the pump.
51Position a test tube under the accelerator
pump jet and give ten full strokes of the
throttle lever, pausing between each stroke to
allow fuel to finish dripping.
52The total volume of fuel collected should
be as specified. Adjust the nut on the pump
control if necessary to increase or decrease
the volume of fuel ejected.
General
53When the stage is reached where the
valve plate spindle bushes have worn, then
the carburettor should be renewed complete.
54When reassembling the carburettor, use
new gaskets which can be obtained in a repair
pack.
Carburettor (Weber 32 ICEV
61/250 and DMTE 30/32,
DMTE 30/150) - general
55These carburettor types are fitted to later
models according to engine type. They are
similar in structure and operation to their
equivalents described in Chapter 3. Reference
can therefore be made to that Chapter for the
description and any operations concerning
them, but refer to Section 2 of this Chapter for
their specifications.
Carburettor (Solex
C 30/32-CIC 8) - description
56This carburettor is fitted as an alternative
to the Weber unit on 1116 cc models
produced for certain markets. The removal,
refitting and overhaul procedures are
essentially the same as described earlier for
the Weber carburettors.
PART C:
BOSCH LE2-JETRONIC
FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
Description
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of this Section before starting
any work.
1The Bosch LE2-Jetronic fuel injection
system, fitted to the 1301 cc Turbo ie model,
is an electronically controlled multi-point
injection (MPi) system.
2The fuel injectors are fed at constant
pressure in relation to inlet manifold vacuum
pressure.
3The system electronic control unit (ECU)
actuates the injectors for variable duration,
and so supplies the precise volume of fuel
required for any given engine speed and load
condition.
4The ECU also monitors the air induction, air
temperature, coolant temperature and throttle
opening as additional parameters to compute
the required opening of the fuel injectors,
giving maximum power with fuel economy.
Fuel supply system
5The fuel supply system consists of an
electric pump and primary filter, located
adjacent to the fuel tank. A fuel pressure peak
damper is located next to the pump (photo).
6Fuel is then pumped through a filter to the
fuel rail and injectors. The injectors are of the
13•66 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9C.5 Electric fuel pump/filter/pressure
damper assembly location on a 1301 cc
Turbo ie model
9B.41 Jets on the Weber 30/32 DMTE
carburettor (top cover removed)
9B.45 Float pivot arrangement and needle
valve on the Weber 30/32 DMTE
carburettor
9B.40 Unscrewing a top cover screw from
the Weber 30/32 DMTE carburettor9B.37F Unscrewing a carburettor fixing nut
Page 197 of 303
Throttle position switch
(potentiometer)
90This is located on the left side of the
throttle valve housing (photo).
91Disconnect the wiring plug, unscrew the
two fixing screws and withdraw the switch.
Fuel filter
92Unscrew the fuel line banjo unions from
the filter, which is located in the right-hand
rear corner of the engine compartment. Be
prepared for some loss of pressurised fuel,
and mop it up with rags.
Fuel pump
93The fuel pump can be removed from its
location beside the fuel tank afterdisconnecting the fuel hoses and wiring plug,
and then releasing the mounting clamp.
Refitting all components
94Refitting of all components is a reversal of
removal, but observe the following points.
95Use new seals and gaskets as applicable,
noting that three rubber seals are used on
each fuel injector and insulator (photos).
96Adjust the throttle position switch as
described in paragraph 46 of this Section.
97When refitting a new fuel filter, make sure
that the arrow marked on it is in the direction
of the fuel flow.
98Apply gasket cement to the threads of the
coolant temperature sensor.
Throttle control linkage -
general
99This is of the cable and rod type. Adjust the
cable by means of the end fitting and nut, to give
the slightest play in the cable when the plastic
socket is engaged with the ball on the link rod
which runs across the camshaft cover (photos).
100Keep the cross-shaft pivots and return
springs lubricated.
Fuel tank - general
101The fuel tank is of metal construction, but
note the plastic anti-blow-back compartment
between the filler cap and the tank. This is
accessible from under the right-hand wheel
arch (photo).
13•72 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9C.99B Throttle cable (secondary section)
and cross-shaft9C.99A Throttle cable and end fitting
(primary section)9C.95D Inlet pipe stub gasket
9C.95C Fuel injector insulator seal9C.95B Fuel injector small seal9C.95A Fuel injector large seal
9C.90 Throttle position switch (wiring plug
arrowed)9C.88B Supplementary air valve (arrowed)9C.88A Disconnecting the supplementary
air valve hose from the inlet manifold
Page 199 of 303
necessary processing (photo). A conventional
paper type air filter element is used and this
must be renewed at the specified intervals.
9The ECU is specific to the model type, its
function being to control the fuel system
under all operating conditions, including
starting from cold - it richens the fuel mixture
as required but at the same time prevents
flooding. As the engine temperature rises, the
injection impulses are progressively reduced
until the normal operation temperature is
reached.
10An integral emergency system enables
the fuel injection system to remain operational
in the event of any of the following
components malfunctioning. These items are
the coolant temperature sensor, the air intake
sensor, the Lambda sensor, the idle speed
check actuator and the throttle position
switch. In the event of the throttle position
switch malfunctioning, the fuel system
becomes automatically inoperative.
11The catalytic converter fitted in the
exhaust system minimises the amount of
pollutants which escape into the atmosphere.
The Lambda sensor in the exhaust system
provides the fuel injection system ECU with
constant feedback which enables it to adjust
the mixture to provide the best possible
conditions for the converter to operate. The
fuel tank ventilation is contained within the
system. This is done by feeding any excess
vapours through a carbon filter back into the
engine intake, using solenoids and valves, as
shown in Fig. 13.46.
MaintenanceÁ
12Regularly check the condition and
security of the system hoses and
connections. Also check the system wiring
connections for condition and security.
13At the specified intervals, renew the air
cleaner element and the fuel filter.
Fuel filter - renewalÁ
14The in-line fuel filter is secured to the
right-hand suspension turret in the engine
compartment. To remove the filter, first
depressurize the fuel in the system as
described later in this Part.
13•74 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.46 Fuel evaporation control system (Sec 9D)
1 Fuel tank
2 Two-way safety valve
3 Throttle body4 Two-way vapour vent
valve
5 Vapour cut-off solenoid6 Carbon filter
7 Elbi solenoid
8 ECU
9D.8 Atmospheric air intake for air
temperature sensor (1). Also shown are the
supply and return fuel line connections (2
and 3) and the throttle position sensor (4)
Fig. 13.45 Mono-Jetronic fuel injection component locations in the engine compartment
- 1372 cc ie engine (Sec 9D)
1 Injector resistor
2 Lambda sensor signal connector
3 Lambda sensor heating connector
4 Secondary fuel filter
5 Fuel return pipe
6 Fuel supply pipe
7 Coolant temperature sensor
8 ECU9 Injector holder turret
10 Lambda sensor
11 Nut for adjusting accelerator cable
12 Engine speed and TDC sensor connector
13 Ignition control unit
14 Ignition coil
15 Diagnostic socket
16 Fuel pump relay and system relay