check engine FORD E SERIES 2004 4.G 7.3L Diesel Supplement Manual

Whenever coolant has been added, the coolant level in the coolant
reservoir should be checked the next few times you drive the vehicle. If
necessary, add enough 50/50 concentration of engine coolant and
distilled water to bring the liquid level to the proper level.
If you have to add more than 1.0 liter (1.0 quart) of engine coolant per
month, have your dealer check the engine cooling system. Your cooling
system may have a leak. Operating an engine with a low level of coolant
can result in engine overheating and possible engine damage.
Replacing coolant
A coolant mixture of 50% coolant concentrate and 50% water is
recommended to maintain best overall performance. To avoid damaging
the engine and radiator, the coolant concentrate should not exceed 60%.
When refilling the coolant system either as part of the regular
maintenance (refer to the scheduled maintenance guide), or due to
service performed, adhere to the following instructions:
1. Drain and flush the cooling system to remove dirt deposits, oil, rust
particles.
Note:When filling the system with Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant
(green-colored) or equivalent meeting Ford specification
ESE-M97B44–A, a supplemental coolant additive is required. Refer to
Adding Coolantsection to determine the coolant type in your vehicle.
Add 1.89L (4 pints) of Motorcraft Heavy Duty Cooling System Additive
FW-16 or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESN-M99B169–A,
directly to the cooling system. An additional 237–295 ml (8–10 oz.) of
supplemental coolant additive FW-16 should be added at 24,000 km
(15,000 mile) intervals to maintain proper concentration.Do not use
this additive with yellow-colored coolant meeting Ford
specification WSS-M97B51–A1.
2. Fill the coolant reservoir with the specified coolant/water mixture until
the level stabilizes at the top hose fitting. Replace and tighten cap. Fill
the coolant bottle to the cold fill mark.
3. Reinstall the coolant bottle cap.
4. Start and idle engine until the radiator upper hose is warm
(approximately 10–15 minutes). If the hose does not get warm then
repeat at a higher engine speed.
5. Immediately shut off engine. Allow engine to cool before removing
coolant bottle cap. Cautiously remove coolant bottle cap and add coolant
to Cold Fill mark.
General maintenance information
40

The complexity of the Diesel engine makes it so the owner is
discouraged from attempting to perform maintenance other than the
services described in this supplement.
If you experience difficult starting, rough idling, excessive exhaust
smoke, a decrease in engine performance or excess fuel consumption,
perform the following checks:
•a plugged air inlet system or engine air filter element.
•water in the fuel filter/water separator.
•a clogged fuel filter.
•contaminated fuel.
•air in the fuel system, due to loose connections.
•an open or pinched sensor hose.
•low engine oil level.
•wrong fuel for climactic conditions.
If these checks do not help you correct the engine performance problem
you are experiencing, consult an authorized dealer.
FUELING
Do not use starting fluid such as ether or gasoline in the Diesel
air intake system. Such fluids can cause immediate explosive
damage to the engine and possible personal injury.
If you fuel your vehicle at a truck stop, you may notice that the fuel
nozzle may shut off every 5–10 seconds. This is due to the flow rates
being designed for larger heavy duty trucks. You may have to fuel at a
slower rate (don’t depress the nozzle trigger fully).
Do not run your Diesel vehicle out of fuel as this will allow air to enter
the fuel system which will make restarting difficult. Longer engine
cranking time may be required once air is in the fuel system. If air enters
the fuel system (either through running the fuel tank(s) empty or during
a fuel filter change), the engine will self-purge the trapped air once it
starts running. The engine may run roughly and produce white smoke
while air is in the fuel system; this is normal and should stop after a
short time.
Minor troubleshooting guide
45

IF THE ENGINE WON’T CRANK
Turn on the headlights. If the lights are dim, do not go on at all or if
when the ignition is turned to START the lights become dim or go out,
the battery connections may be loose or corroded, or the battery may be
discharged. If there is a clicking or stuttering sound coming from the
engine compartment when you turn the key to START, this may also
indicate a loose or corroded battery connection.
Check the battery connections at the battery posts, cable connection to
the engine grounding point and at the starter relay terminals. Also, make
sure the relay bracket is securely fastened to its mounting surface.
If the starter relay clicks, but the starter does not crank, check the
connections at the starter terminal. If a discharged battery is suspected,
have it checked and corrected.
•For vehicles with manual transmissions, the clutch pedalmustbe fully
depressed in order for the starter to operate.
•For vehicles with automatic transmissions, the gearshift lever must be
in Park or Neutral in order for the starter to operate.
•Try operating the starter switch several times. Should the switch be
corroded, this operation may clean the contacts or make the switch
temporarily operable until you can reach the dealer.
•If all electrical connections are tight and you need assistance to start,
see“Jump Starting Your Vehicle”.
IF ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON’T START
Prolonged starter cranking (in excess of 30 seconds) could cause
damage to the starter motor.
•Check the fuel gauge. You may be out of fuel. If the gauge shows that
there is fuel in the tank, the trouble may be in the electrical system or
the fuel system. If equipped with an auxiliary tank, be sure that the
tank control switch is set for the tank with fuel and not on an empty
tank.
•Leaving the ignition key ON for over two minutes without starting may
make starting difficult because the glow plugs will cease activation.
Reset the system by turning the ignition key to OFF and then back to
ON again.
Minor troubleshooting guide
46

IF THE ENGINE RUNS HOT
The following could cause the engine to overheat:
•Lack of coolant.
•Dirty cooling system.
•Plugged radiator fins, charge air cooler, A/C condenser and/or oil
cooler.
•Driving with frozen coolant.
•Sticking thermostat.
•Overloading or pulling heavy trailers during hot weather.
•Grill or radiator air blockage.
•Slipping or missing drive belt.
•Plugged or very dirty air cleaner element.
IF FUSES BURN OUT
Burned-out or blown fuses usually indicate an electrical short-circuit,
although a fuse may occasionally burn out from vibration. Insert a second
fuse. If this fuse immediately burns out and you cannot locate the cause,
return your vehicle to your dealer for a circuit check.
Replacement fuses and circuit breakers must always be the same
rating as the original equipment shown. Never replace a fuse or
circuit breaker with one of a higher rating. Higher rated fuses or circuit
breakers could allow circuit overloading in the event of a circuit
malfunction, resulting in severe vehicle damage or personal injury.
Refer to the“Owner Guide”for replacement of fuses.
Minor troubleshooting guide
47