ECU FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Service Manual

transmission flange attachment bolts (see
illustration) .
19 Check that the appropriate underside
attachments are disconnected and out of the
way, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
20 Unbolt and remove the heat shield from
the exhaust manifold.
21 Attach a suitable hoist to the engine. It is
possible to fabricate lifting eyes to connect
the hoist to the engine, but make sure that
they are strong enough, and connect them to
the inlet and exhaust manifold at diagonally-
opposite ends of the engine.
22 With the hoist securely connected, take
the weight of the engine. Unscrew and
remove the right-hand engine mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch.
Unscrew and remove the mounting retaining
nut and washer from the suspension strut cup
retaining plate, and the three bolts securing
the mounting unit to the cylinder block.
23 Locate a jack under the transmission, and
raise it to take the weight of the transmission.
24 Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine-to-transmission retaining bolts on the
upper flange.
25 Check around the engine to ensure that all
of the relevant fixings and attachments are
disconnected and out of the way for the
removal.
26 Enlist the aid of an assistant, then move
the engine sideways and away from the
transmission, whilst simultaneously raising
the transmission. When the engine is
separated from the transmission, carefully
guide it up and out of the engine
compartment. Do not allow the weight of the
engine to hang on the transmission input shaft
at any point during the removal (or refitting) of
the engine. When the engine sump is clear
of the vehicle, swing the power unit out of the
way, and lower it onto a trolley (if available).
Unless a mobile hoist is being used, it will be
necessary to move the vehicle rearwards and
out of the way in order to allow the engine to
be lowered for removal. In this instance,
ensure that the weight of the transmission is
well supported as the vehicle is moved.
27 While the engine is removed, check the
mountings; renew them if they are worn or
damaged. Similarly, check the condition of all
coolant and vacuum hoses and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that are normally
hidden can now be checked properly, and
should be renewed if there is any doubt at all
about their condition. Also, take the
opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components disturbed on removal, and renew
any that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
28
Refitting is in general, a reversal of the
removal procedure, but the following special
points should be noted.
29 Before coupling the engine to the
transmission, apply a thin smear of high-
melting-point grease onto the transmission
input shaft splines. If the clutch has been
removed, ensure that the clutch disc is
centralised, and disconnect the clutch cable
from the release lever on the transmission
casing.
30 Tighten all fixings to their recommended
torque wrench settings.
31 Check that the mating faces are clean,
and fit a new exhaust downpipe-to-manifold
gasket and self-locking nuts when
reconnecting this joint.
32 Ensure that all wiring connections are
correctly and securely made.
33 Remove the plugs from the fuel lines
before reconnecting them correctly and
securely.
34 Reconnect and adjust the accelerator and
choke cables as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4. The refitting details for the air
cleaner components are also given in that
Chapter.
35 Renew any coolant hoses (and/or
retaining clips) that are not in good condition.
36 Refer to Chapter 6 for details on
reconnecting the clutch cable.
37 When the engine is fully refitted, check
that the various hoses are connected, and
then top-up the engine oil and coolant levels
as described in Chapter 1 and “Weekly
Checks”.
38 When engine refitting is completed, refer to
Section 19 for the engine start-up procedures.
4 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting (CVH and
PTE engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare
light bulbs, in or near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1 On all fuel injection engines, refer to
Chapter 4B, C or D as applicable and
depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Referring to Chapter 1 for details, drain the
coolant and the engine oil. Refit the drain plug
to the sump on completion.
4 Refer to Chapter 11 for details, and remove
the bonnet.
5 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
inlet components as described in the relevant
Part of Chapter 4.
6 Release the retaining clips and detach the
coolant top hose, the heater hose and the
radiator overflow hose from the thermostat
housing. Disconnect the coolant hose from
the inlet manifold, and the bottom hose from
the water pump and/or the radiator (see
illustrations) . On 1.4 litre CFi fuel injection
models, also disconnect the coolant hose
from the injection unit. On EFi and SEFi fuel
injection models, detach the heater hose
Y-connector. Allow for coolant spillage as the
hoses are detached. On turbocharged
engines, disconnect the coolant return hose
from the turbocharger connecting pipe.
2D•8 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.6b Heater coolant hoses and Y-connector on 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection models4.6a Coolant hose connections to the thermostat (arrowed)
3.18 Engine-to-transmission flangeattachment bolts (arrowed)
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7Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 for
details, and disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage and support/adjuster
bracket. Where applicable, also disconnect
the choke cable. Position the cable(s) out of
the way.
8 On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel
supply hose from the fuel pump, and the
return hose from the carburettor.
9 On CFi models, detach the fuel hose at the
injector/pressure regulator unit, and the return
line, by compressing the couplings whilst
pulling the hoses free from their connections.
On EFi and SEFi models, unscrew the union
nut to detach the fuel line from the fuel rail;
release the retaining clip to detach the return
pipe from the pressure regulator. Plug the
exposed ends of the hoses and connections,
to prevent fuel spillage and the ingress of dirt.
Position the hoses out of the way.
10 Press the clamp ring inwards, and
simultaneously pull free the brake servo hose from the inlet manifold. Position it out of the
way.
11
On CFi and EFi models, detach the
vacuum hose from the MAP sensor, and the
hose between the carbon canister and the fuel
injection unit (see illustration) .
12 Note their connections and routings, and
detach the following wiring connections,
according to model (see illustrations):
a) Coolant temperature sender unit.
b) Oil pressure switch.
c) E-DIS ignition coil unit. or distributor.
d) Coolant temperature sensor.
e) Cooling fan thermostatic switch.
f) Carburettor.
g) Earth lead (radio).
h) Reversing light switch (from transmission).
i) Crankshaft position sensor.
j) Earth leads from the transmission and engine.
13 Disconnect the wiring at the following
additional items specific to fuel injection
models only.
a) Inlet air temperature sensor.
b) Vehicle speed sensor.
c) Throttle plate control motor (CFi models).
d) Throttle position sensor.
e) Injector harness connector.
f) Idle speed control valve (EFi and SEFi models).
14 Unscrew the retaining bolt and detach the
bracket locating the wiring and coolant hoses
above the transmission. 15
Disconnect the speedometer drive cable
from the transmission.
16 On manual transmission models,
disconnect the clutch cable from the release
lever at the transmission (see Chapter 6 for
details). Position the cable out of the way.
17 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the left-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket, without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead.
18 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Allow
sufficient clearance under the vehicle to
withdraw the engine and transmission units
from under the front end.
19 On XR2i models, refer to Chapter 10 and
remove the front suspension crossmember.
20 Where applicable on catalytic converter-
equipped vehicles, release the multi-plug from
the bracket and disconnect the wiring
connector from the oxygen sensor in the
exhaust downpipe.
21 Undo the three retaining bolts, detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold, and
collect the gasket from the flange joint. Now
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
rest of the system, and remove it from the
vehicle.
22 Where fitted, undo the four retaining nuts
and two bolts securing the front part of the
exhaust heat shield to the floor, then remove
the heat shield.
23 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the
alternator and starter motor. On models with
power steering, refer to Chapter 10 and
remove the power steering pump.
Manual transmission models
24 On 4-speed models, select 2nd gear; on
5-speed models, select 4th gear, to assist in
correct adjustment of the gearchange during
reassembly. If it is likely that the gear lever will
be moved from this position before refitting,
mark the relative position of the transmission
shift rod and the selector shaft before
separating them. Undo the clamp bolt, and
then pull free and detach the shift rod from the
selector shaft (see illustration) .
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•9
4.12b . . . the oil pressure switch . . .4.12a Disconnect the wiring at the
temperature gauge sender unit . . .4.11 Vacuum hose to MAP sensor (A) and brake servo (B)
4.24 Manual transmission shift rod clamp
bolt (A), stabiliser-to-transmission bolt (B)
and washer (C)4.12c . . . and the crankshaft position sensor
2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

25Unscrew the retaining bolt, and detach
the shift rod stabiliser from the transmission.
As it is detached, note the washer located
between the stabiliser and the transmission.
Tie the stabiliser and the shift rod up out of
the way.
Automatic transmission models
26 Unclip and detach the wiring connector
from the starter inhibitor switch (on the
transmission housing).
27 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4
for details, unhook the accelerator (cam plate)
cable from the carburettor or fuel injection unit
(as applicable) at the transmission end of
the cable. Undo the retaining bolt and
detach the cable sheath bracket from the
transmission. Detach the cam plate cable
from the link.
28 Undo the two nuts from the selector cable
bracket which connects it to the lever on the
selector shaft. Disconnect the yoke from the
lever on the selector shaft and the cable from
the lever.
29 Unscrew the union nuts, and disconnect
the oil cooler feed and return pipes from the
transmission. Allow for a certain amount of
spillage, and plug the connections to prevent
the ingress of dirt.
All models
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Refer to Chapter 10 for details, and
detach the right-hand and left-hand track rod
end balljoints from the spindle carriers.
32 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator
bracket.
33 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side, to enable
the driveshaft inboard end to separate
from the transmission. Once it is free,
suspend and support the driveshaft from the
steering gear, to prevent unnecessary strain
being placed on the driveshaft joints.
34 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
35 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 33 and 34, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
36 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lifting eyes. When securely connected, take the weight of
the engine/transmission unit so that the
tension is relieved from the mountings.
37
Undo the retaining bolts and nuts and
detach the right-hand engine mounting from
the vehicle body.
38 Undo the four bolts securing the
transmission bearer to the underside of the
vehicle body. The transmission bearer is
removed with the engine/transmission
assembly.
39 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from
under the crankshaft pulley.
40 The engine/transmission unit should now
be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check
that all of the associated connections and
fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission, and positioned out of the way.
41 Enlist the aid of an assistant to help
steady and guide the power unit down
through the engine compartment as it is
removed. If available, position a suitable
engine trolley or crawler board under the
engine/transmission so that when lowered,
the power unit can be withdrawn from the
front end of the vehicle, and then moved to
the area where it is to be cleaned and
dismantled. On automatic transmission
models, particular care must be taken not to
damage the transmission fluid pan (sump)
during the removal and subsequent refitting
processes.
42 Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
remove the power unit from under the vehicle.
43 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
44 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1). Components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to inspect the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
45 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting. c) Renew the exhaust flange gasket when
reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system and, on catalytic converter
models, ensure that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1.
h) Refit the alternator and starter motor with reference to Chapter 5A.
i) Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10.
46 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
5 Engine/transmission -
removal and refitting
(Zetec engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or
bare light bulbs, in or near the work area,
and don’t work in a garage where a
natural-gas appliance (such as a clothes
dryer or water heater) is installed. If you
spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off
immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated
for petrol fires handy, and know how to
use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in Section 2, before
beginning this procedure. The engine and
transmission are removed as a unit, lowered to
the ground and removed from underneath,
then separated outside the vehicle.
Removal
1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply
the handbrake firmly, and slacken the nuts
securing both front roadwheels.
2 Depressurise the fuel system as described
in Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
4 Place protective covers on the wings, then
remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
5 Drain the cooling system and the engine oil
(see Chapter 1).
6 Remove the air inlet components and the
complete air cleaner assembly as described in
Chapter 4D.
7 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then release the fuel
feed and return quick-release couplings, and
pull the hoses off the fuel pipes. Plug or cap
all open fittings.
2D•10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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8Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
Secure the cable clear of the
engine/transmission.
9 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the wiring
connector from the power steering pressure
switch (where fitted), then disconnect the
earth cable from the engine lifting eye. Refit
the bolt after disconnecting the cable.
10 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected, disconnect the
vacuum hoses as follows:
a) From the rear of the inlet manifold.
b) The braking system vacuum servo unit
hose - from the inlet manifold (see
Chapter 9 for details).
c) While you are there, trace the vacuum line
from the pulse-air filter housing, and
disconnect it from the pulse-air solenoid
valve.
d) Secure all these hoses so that they won’t
get damaged as the engine/transmission
is removed.
11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body earth lead from the transmission
(see
illustration) . Disconnect the speedometer
drive cable (see Chapter 12) and secure it
clear of the engine/transmission.
12 Disconnect the earth strap at the top of
the engine/transmission flange, and the
adjacent bolt securing the wiring harness clip.
13 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the clutch cable (see
Chapter 6).
14 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected, disconnect the engine
wiring connectors as follows (see
illustrations) :
a) The multi-plug from the E-DIS ignition
coil.
b) The radio interference suppressor from
the DIS ignition coil.
c) The reversing light switch multi-plug.
d) The engine main wiring loom multi-plug
behind the E-DIS ignition coil.
e) The crankshaft speed/position sensor and vehicle speed sensor multi-plugs.
f) The oxygen sensor multi-plug.
15 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield,
and lift it clear.
16 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
17 Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected and catching as much
as possible of the escaping coolant in the
drain tray, disconnect the cooling system
hoses and pipes as follows:
a) The coolant hoses at the thermostat housing. b)
The coolant hose at the metal cross pipe
lower connection.
c) The radiator top and bottom hoses.
18 Where applicable, detach the power
steering pump pressure pipe clips, release the
unions and disconnect the pump pressure
and return lines. Collect the fluid in a
suitable container, and plug the disconnected
unions.
19 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock
braking system, refer to Chapter 9 and release
the left-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket, without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead.
20 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
21 Refer to Chapter 5 if necessary, and
disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
and alternator.
22 Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring
connector.
23 On automatic transmission models,
disconnect the starter inhibitor switch wiring
and disconnect the selector cable (see
Chapter 7B). Secure the cable clear of the
engine/transmission.
24 Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the gearchange
linkage and transmission support rod from the
rear of the transmission - make alignment
marks as they are disconnected (see
illustrations) .
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•11
5.14b . . . the radio interference
suppressor . . .5.14a Disconnect the wiring multi-plugfrom the ignition coil . . .5.11 Unbolt the engine/transmission-to-body earth lead from the transmission
5.24b . . . and transmission support rod5.24a Disconnect the gearchange linkage . . .5.14c . . . and the reversing light switch
2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

25On automatic transmission models, clean
around the unions, then disconnect the fluid
pipes from the transmission. Plug the
openings in the transmission and the pipe
unions after removal.
26 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the front
suspension crossmember.
27 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold. Undo the nuts securing the catalytic
converter to the rear part of the exhaust
system, and remove the converter and
downpipe assembly.
28 On vehicles fitted with the anti-lock braking
system, refer to Chapter 9 and release the
right-hand modulator from its mounting
bracket without disconnecting the rigid brake
pipes or return hose. Tie the modulator
securely to the bulkhead. Additionally, undo
the three bolts securing the modulator bracket.
29 Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension struts, and both
track rod end ball joints from their spindle
carriers (see Chapter 10).
30 Unscrew the retaining nut and withdraw
the Torx-type clamp bolt securing the lower
suspension arm to the spindle carrier on each
side.
31 Insert a suitable lever between the right-
hand driveshaft inner joint and the
transmission housing, and prise free the
driveshaft from the transmission; be prepared
for oil spillage from the transmission case
through the vacated driveshaft aperture. As it
is being prised free, simultaneously pull the
roadwheel outwards on that side to enable the
driveshaft inboard end to separate from the
transmission. Once it is free, suspend and
support the driveshaft from the steering gear,
to prevent unnecessary strain being placed on
the driveshaft joints.
32 Insert a suitable plastic plug (or if
available, an old driveshaft joint), into the
transmission driveshaft aperture, to
immobilise the gears of the differential unit.
33 Proceed as described above in
paragraphs 31 and 32, and disconnect the
left-hand driveshaft from the transmission.
34 Remove the oil filter, referring to Chapter 1
if necessary.
35 Connect a suitable lift hoist and sling to
the engine, connecting to the lift eyes. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36 Unbolt the engine rear right-hand
mounting from the body (one bolt in the wheel
arch, one nut in the engine compartment),
then unbolt the engine front right-hand
mounting from the alternator mounting
bracket. Unbolt the transmission bearer from
the underbody.
37 The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the hoist only, with all
components which connect it to the rest of
the vehicle disconnected or removed, and
secured well clear of the unit. Make a final
check that this is the case. 38
Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle.
39 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
40 While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 6). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
41 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
note the following additional points:
a) Refer to the applicable Chapters and Sections as for removal.
b) Fit new spring clips to the grooves in the
inboard end of the right- and left-hand
driveshaft joints. Lubricate the splines
with transmission oil prior to fitting.
c) Renew the exhaust flange gaskets when reconnecting the exhaust. Ensure that all
wires are routed clear of the exhaust
system, and that the heat shields are
securely and correctly fitted.
d) Ensure that all earth lead connections are
clean and securely made.
e) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
f) Fit a new oil filter, and refill the engine and transmission with oil, with reference to
Chapter 1.
g) Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
h) Bleed the power steering system with reference to Chapter 10.
42 When engine and transmission refitting is
complete, refer to the procedures described
in Section 19 before restarting the engine.
6 Engine overhaul - preliminary information
It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase. If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it suitably supported on a sturdy, workbench or on the
floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
If you intend to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, to
be transferred to the replacement engine (just
as they will if you are doing a complete engine
overhaul yourself). These components include
the following:
a) Alternator/power steering pump and
mounting brackets.
b) DIS/E-DIS ignition coil unit (and mounting
bracket), distributor, HT leads and spark
plugs.
c) The thermostat and housing cover.
d) Carburettor/fuel injection system
components.
e) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
f) Oil filter.
g) Fuel pump.
h) Engine mountings.
i) Flywheel/driveplate.
j) Water pump.
Note: When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and
other small items. If you are obtaining a “short” engine
(cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons
and connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, timing chain/belt (together with
tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys and
covers) sump and oil pump will have to be
removed also. If a complete overhaul is planned, the
engine can be dismantled in the order given
below, referring to Part A, B or C of this
Chapter unless otherwise stated.
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.
b) Timing chain/belt, tensioner and
sprockets.
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel/driveplate.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Pistons (with connecting rods).
h) Crankshaft.
i) Camshaft and tappets (HCS engines).
7 Cylinder head - dismantling
4
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact
that some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available,
it may be more practical and economical for
the home mechanic to purchase a
reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle,
inspect and recondition the original head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as applicable).
2D•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
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or press the seal squarely into place, using a
suitable tube or socket (see illustration).
9 To protect the seal lips from being
damaged by the collet grooves in the valve
stem as it is passed through the seal, wipe
any oil from the stem at the top, and mask the
split collet groove on the stem with insulating
tape. Lubricate the lips of the valve stem seal,
and insert the valve (see illustration).
10 Remove the tape from the grooved
section of the valve stem, then locate the
spring and the upper retainer over the valve.
11 Locate the valve spring compressor into
position, and compress the spring and cup
down the valve stem so that the collet’s
groove is exposed above the upper retainer.
Lightly grease the collet’s groove in the stem,
(to retain the collets in position) then locate
the split collets into the groove in the stem.
Slowly release and remove the valve spring
compressor. As the compressor is released,
ensure that the collets remain fully seated in
the groove, and the upper retainer rides up
over them to secure them in position (see
illustration) .
12 Repeat the above operations on the
remaining valves, ensuring that each valve
assembly is returned to its original position, or
where new valves have been fitted, onto the
seat to which it was ground.
13 When all of the valves have been fitted,
support the cylinder head on a wooden block,
and using a plastic or copper-faced hammer,
lightly tap the end of each valve stem in turn
to seat the respective valve assemblies. 14
Refit the camshaft, tappets and rocker
arms to the cylinder head as described in
Part B of this Chapter.
Zetec engines
15 Beginning at one end of the head,
lubricate and install the first valve. Apply
molybdenum disulphide-based grease or
clean engine oil to the valve stem, and refit the
valve. Where the original valves are being re-
used, ensure that each is refitted in its original
guide. If new valves are being fitted, insert
them into the locations to which they have
been ground.
16 Fit the plastic protector supplied with new
valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals to the
end of the valve stem, then put the new seal
squarely on top of the guide, and leave it
there; the action of refitting the valve spring
presses the lower seat/stem oil seal into place
(see illustration) .
17 Refit the valve spring and upper seat.
18 Compress the spring with a valve spring
compressor, and carefully install the collets in
the stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease
to each collet to hold it in place if necessary.
Slowly release the compressor, and make
sure the collets seat properly.
19 When the valve is installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of the valve stem gently, to settle the
components.
20 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
valves. Be sure to return the components to their original locations - don’t mix them up!
21 Refit the hydraulic tappets as described in
Part C of this Chapter.10 Camshaft and tappets -
removal, inspection and
refitting (HCS engines)
3
Removal
1 Refer to the applicable Sections in Part A of
this Chapter and remove the cylinder head,
timing chain and camshaft sprocket, and the
sump.
2 Invert the engine so that it is supported on
its cylinder head face (on a clean work area).
This is necessary to make all of the tappets
slide to the top of their stroke, thus allowing
the camshaft to be withdrawn. Rotate the
camshaft through a full turn, to ensure that all
of the tappets slide up their bores, clear of the
camshaft.
3 Before removing the camshaft, check its
endfloat using a dial gauge mounted on the
front face of the engine or feeler gauges. Pull
the camshaft fully towards the front (timing
chain) end of the engine, then insert feeler
gauges between the camshaft sprocket flange
and the camshaft thrust plate to assess the
endfloat clearance (see illustration). The
camshaft endfloat must be as specified.
4 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove
the camshaft thrust plate.
5 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
front end of the engine (see illustration).
2D•16 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
10.5 Withdrawing the camshaft from the
front of the engine10.3 Checking the camshaft endfloat9.16 Valve spring pressure is sufficient toseat lower seat/stem oil seals on
reassembly
9.11 Insert the split collets into the groove in the valve stem9.9 Insert the valve into its guide9.8 Locate the seal, and tap it into position over the guide
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6Extract each tappet in turn. Keep them in
order of fitting by inserting them in a card with
eight holes in it, numbered 1 to 8 (from the
timing chain end of the engine). A valve
grinding suction tool will be found to be useful
for the removal of tappets (see illustration).
Inspection
7Examine the camshaft bearing journals and
lobes for damage or excessive wear. If
evident, the camshaft must be renewed.
8 Examine the camshaft bearing internal
surfaces for signs of damage or excessive
wear. If evident, the bearings must be
renewed by a Ford dealer.
9 If not carried out on removal, check the
camshaft endfloat as described in para-
graph 3. If the endfloat is exceeds the
specified tolerance, renew the thrust plate.
10 It is seldom that the tappets wear
excessively in their bores, but it is likely that
after a high mileage, the cam lobe contact
surfaces will show signs of depression or
grooving.
11 Where this condition is evident, renew the
tappets. Grinding out the grooves and wear
marks will reduce the thickness of the surface
hardening, and will accelerate further wear.
Refitting
12 To refit the tappets and the camshaft, it is
essential that the crankcase is inverted.
13 Lubricate their bores and the tappets.
Insert each tappet fully into its original bore in
the cylinder block.
14 Lubricate the camshaft bearings,
camshaft and thrust plate, then insert the
camshaft into the crankcase from the timing
case end.
15 Fit the thrust plate and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting
(see illustration) . Check that the camshaft is
able to rotate freely, and that the endfloat is as
specified.
11 Piston/connecting rod
assemblies - removal and
inspection
4
Removal
HCS engines
1 Refer to Part A of this Chapter and remove
the cylinder head and sump, then remove the
oil pick-up pipe and strainer.
2 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that
the connecting rod big-end caps have
adjacent matching numbers facing towards
the camshaft side of the engine. If no marks
can be seen, make your own before disturbing
any of the components, so that you can be
certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod
assembly the right way round, to its correct
(original) bore, with the cap also the right way
round.
CVH and PTE engines
3 Refer to Part B of this Chapter and remove
the cylinder head and sump, then remove the
oil pick-up pipe and strainer.
4 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Check that
the connecting rods have identification
numbers - these should be found on the
exhaust side of the big-ends. No 1 assembly
is at the timing belt end of the engine. If no
marks can be seen, make your own before
disturbing any of the components, so that you
can be certain of refitting each piston/
connecting rod assembly the right way round,
to its correct (original) bore, with the cap also
the right way round.
Zetec engines
5 Refer to Part C of this Chapter and remove
the cylinder head and sump.
6 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (see
illustration) .
7 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, so
that the crankshaft can be rotated. Note that
each piston/connecting rod assembly can be
identified by its cylinder number (counting
from the timing belt end of the engine) etched
into the flat-machined surface of both the
connecting rod and its cap. The numbers are
visible from the front (exhaust side) of the
engine (see illustration) . Furthermore, each piston has an arrow stamped into its crown,
pointing towards the timing belt end of the
engine. If no marks can be seen, make your
own before disturbing any of the components,
so that you can be certain of refitting each
piston/connecting rod assembly the right way
round, to its correct (original) bore, with the
cap also the right way round.
All engines
8
Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has
formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about a
quarter-inch down from the top of each
cylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wear
have produced ridges, they must be
completely removed with a special tool.
Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructions
provided. Failure to remove the ridges before
attempting to remove the piston/connecting
rod assemblies may result in piston ring
breakage.
9 Slacken each of the big-end bearing cap
bolts half a turn at a time, until they can be
removed by hand. Remove the No 1 cap and
bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of the
cap.
10 Remove the upper bearing shell, and push
the connecting rod/piston assembly out
through the top of the engine. Use a wooden
hammer handle to push on the connecting
rod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,
double- check that all of the ridge was
removed from the cylinder.
11 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•17
10.15 Refitting the camshaft thrust plate10.6 Tappet withdrawal using a valve grinding tool suction cup
11.7 Each connecting rod and big-endbearing cap will have a flat-machined
surface with the cylinder number etched in it11.6 Removing the oil baffle to provide access to crankshaft and bearings
2D
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HCS engines
4Check that the main bearing caps have
marks to indicate their respective fitted
positions in the block. They also have arrow
marks pointing towards the timing chain cover
end of the engine to indicate correct
orientation (see illustration) .
5 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the main bearing caps. If the caps are
reluctant to separate from the block face,
lightly tap them free using a plastic- or
copper-faced hammer. If the bearing shells
are likely to be used again, keep them with
their bearing caps for safekeeping. However,
unless the engine is known to be of low
mileage, it is recommended that they be
renewed.
6 Lift the crankshaft out from the crankcase,
then extract the upper bearing shells and side
thrustwashers. Keep them with their
respective caps for correct repositioning if
they are to be used again.
7 Remove the crankshaft oil seals from the
timing cover and the rear oil seal housing.
CVH and PTE engines
8 Check that each main bearing cap is
numerically marked for position. Each cap
should also have an arrow marking to indicate
its direction of fitting (arrow points to the
timing belt end).
9 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the main bearing caps. As they are removed,
keep each bearing shell with its cap (in case
they are to used again). Note that the bearing
shells in the main bearing caps are plain (no
groove). It is recommended that the shells be
renewed, unless the engine is known to be of
low mileage.
10 Lift out the crankshaft from the crankcase.
11 Remove each bearing shell in turn from
the crankcase, and keep them in order of
fitting. Note that the upper shell halves are
grooved. Also remove the semi-circular
thrustwasher from each side of the central
main bearing web, and keep them in their
order of fitting.
Zetec engines
12 Check the main bearing caps, to see if they are marked to indicate their locations
(see illustration)
. They should be numbered
consecutively from the timing belt end of the
engine - if not, mark them with number-
stamping dies or a centre-punch. The caps
will also have an embossed arrow pointing to
the timing belt end of the engine. Noting the
different fasteners (for the oil baffle nuts) used
on caps 2 and 4, slacken the cap bolts a
quarter-turn at a time each, starting with the
left- and right-hand end caps and working
toward the centre, until they can be removed
by hand.
13 Gently tap the caps with a soft-faced
hammer, then separate them from the cylinder
block/crankcase. If necessary, use the bolts
as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop
the bearing shells if they come out with the
caps.
14 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine.
15 Remove each bearing shell in turn from
the cylinder block/crankcase, and keep them
in order of fitting.
Inspection
16 Clean the crankshaft, and dry it with
compressed air if available.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air! Be
sure to clean the oil holes with a
pipe cleaner or similar probe.
17 Check the main and crankpin (big-end)
bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,
pitting and cracking.
18 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by
distinct metallic knocking when the engine is
running (particularly noticeable when the
engine is pulling from low speed) and some
loss of oil pressure.
19 Main bearing wear is accompanied by
severe engine vibration and rumble - getting
progressively worse as engine speed
increases - and again by loss of oil pressure.
20 Check the bearing journal for roughness
by running a finger lightly over the bearing
surface. Any roughness (which will be
accompanied by obvious bearing wear)
indicates that the crankshaft requires
regrinding (where possible) or renewal. 21
Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil
holes with a stone, file or scraper.
22 Using a micrometer, measure the
diameter of the main bearing and crankpin
(big-end) journals, and compare the results
with the Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter (see illustration) .
23 By measuring the diameter at a number of
points around each journal’s circumference,
you will be able to determine whether or not
the journal is out-of-round. Take the
measurement at each end of the journal, near
the webs, to determine if the journal is
tapered.
24 If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond the
limits specified in this Chapter, the crankshaft
must be taken to an engine overhaul
specialist, who will regrind it, and who can
supply the necessary undersize bearing
shells.
25 Check the oil seal journals at each end of
the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either
seal has worn an excessive groove in its
journal, consult an engine overhaul specialist,
who will be able to advise whether a repair is
possible, or whether a new crankshaft is
necessary.
13 Cylinder block/crankcase -
cleaning and inspection
2
Cleaning
1 Prior to cleaning, remove all external
components and senders. On HCS engines,
make sure that the camshaft and tappets are
removed before carrying out thorough
cleaning of the block. On the CVH and PTE
engines, remove the engine ventilation cap
from the recess in the rear corner of the
cylinder block and if still fitted, undo the
retaining screw and withdraw the engine
speed sensor from the bellhousing face. On
Zetec engines, unbolt the piston-cooling oil
jets or blanking plugs (as applicable); note
that Ford state that the piston-cooling oil jets
(where fitted) must be renewed whenever the
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•19
12.22 Measure the diameter of each
crankshaft journal at several points, to
detect taper and out-of-round conditions12.12 Crankshaft main bearing cap arrows point to timing belt end of engine (A), and
bearing numbers (B) are consecutive from timing belt end12.4 Connecting rod big-end bearing capand main bearing cap markings
2D
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engine is dismantled for full overhaul (see
illustrations) .
2 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight - they may
have to be drilled out, and the holes re-
tapped. Use new plugs when the engine is
reassembled. Drill a small hole in the centre of
each core plug, and pull them out with a car
bodywork dent puller.
Caution: The core plugs (also known as
freeze or soft plugs) may be difficult or
impossible to retrieve if they are driven
into the block coolant passages.
3 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
4 After the castings are returned from steam-
cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries
one more time. Flush all internal passages
with warm water until the water runs clear,
then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of
oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent
rusting. If you have access to compressed air,
use it to speed the drying process, and to
blow out all the oil holes and galleries.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
5 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very thoroughly, and to dry all components
completely; protect the machined surfaces as
described above, to prevent rusting.
6
All threaded holes must be clean and dry,
to ensure accurate torque readings during
reassembly; now is also a good time to clean
and check the threads of all principal bolts -
however, note that some, such as the cylinder
head and flywheel/driveplate bolts, are to be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed. Run the proper-size tap into
each of the holes, to remove rust, corrosion,
thread sealant or sludge, and to restore
damaged threads (see illustration). If
possible, use compressed air to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation; a
good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied
water-dispersant lubricant into each hole,
using the long spout usually supplied. Warning: Wear eye protection
when cleaning out these holes
in this way, and be sure to dry
out any excess liquid left in the
holes.
7 When all inspection and repair procedures
are complete (see below) and the block is
ready for reassembly, apply suitable sealant
to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them
into the holes in the block. Tighten them
securely. After coating the sealing surfaces of
the new core plugs with suitable sealant,
install them in the cylinder block/crankcase.
Make sure they are driven in straight and seated properly, or leakage could result.
Special tools are available for this purpose,
but a large socket with an outside diameter
that will just slip into the core plug, used with
an extension and hammer, will work just as
well.
8
On Zetec engines, refit the blanking plugs
or (new) piston-cooling oil jets (as applicable),
tightening their Torx screws to the torque
wrench setting specified. On all engines, refit
all other external components removed,
referring to the relevant Chapter of this
manual for further details where required.
Refit the main bearing caps, and tighten the
bolts finger-tight.
9 If the engine is not going to be reassembled
right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to
keep it clean; protect the machined surfaces
as described above, to prevent rusting.
Inspection
10 Visually check the castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the
threaded holes. If there has been any history
of internal coolant leakage, it may be
worthwhile having an engine overhaul
specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase
for cracks with special equipment. If defects
are found, have them repaired, if possible, or
renew the assembly.
11 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and
scoring.
12 The cylinder bores must be measured
with all the crankshaft main bearing caps
bolted in place (without the crankshaft and
bearing shells), and tightened to the specified
torque wrench settings. Measure the diameter
of each cylinder at the top (just under the
ridge area), centre and bottom of the cylinder
bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next,
measure each cylinder’s diameter at the same
three locations across the crankshaft axis
(see illustration) . Note the measurements
obtained.
13 Measure the piston diameter at right-
angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the
bottom of the skirt; again, note the results
(see illustration) .
14 If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore
clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt
as described above, and subtract the skirt
2D•20 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
13.13 Measure the piston skirt diameter at
right-angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just
above the base of the skirt13.12 Measure the diameter of each
cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at
the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)
13.6 All bolt holes in the block should be cleaned and restored with a tap13.1b . . . but note that piston-cooling oiljets (where fitted) must be renewed
whenever engine is overhauled - Zetec engines13.1a Unbolt blanking plugs (where fitted)to clean out oilways . . .
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Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses
and hose connections, because antifreeze
tends to leak through very small openings.
Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if
the level falls regularly, find the cause and
correct it. The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water
which you should use depends on the relative
weather conditions. The mixture should
contain at least 40% antifreeze, but not more
than 70%. Consult the mixture ratio chart on
the antifreeze container before adding
coolant. Hydrometers are available at most
automotive accessory shops to test the
coolant. Use only good-quality ethylene-
glycol-based antifreeze which meets the
vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.
3 Cooling system hoses -
disconnection and renewal
1
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal
a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows.
2 First drain the cooling system (see Chap-
ter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal,
the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is
collected in a clean container.
3 To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers
to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver
to slacken screw-type clamps), then move
them along the hose clear of the union.
Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The
hoses can be removed with relative ease
when new - on an older car, they may have
stuck.
4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it
by rotating it on its unions before attempting
to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose
with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed
screwdriver), but do not apply too much force,
and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or
hoses. Note in particular that the radiator hose
unions are fragile; do not use excessive force
when attempting to remove the hoses.
5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clamps
onto the hose, then work the hose onto its
unions. 6
Work each hose end fully onto its union,
then check that the hose is settled correctly
and is properly routed. Slide each clip along
the hose until it is behind the union flared end,
before tightening it securely.
7 Refill the system with coolant (see Chap-
ter 1).
8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.
4 Thermostat -
removal, testing and refitting
1
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses,
according to engine type as necessary, to
gain access to the thermostat housing.
HCS, CVH and PTE engines
4 Loosen the clips, and disconnect the
radiator top hose, expansion tank hose and,
where applicable, the heater hose from the
thermostat housing (see illustrations).5
Disconnect the thermostatic switch wire
multi-plug from the thermostat housing.
6 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove
the thermostat housing (see illustration).
7 Remove the gasket from the mating face of
the thermostat housing, then using suitable
pliers, compress the thermostat retaining clip
(where applicable) and remove it from the
housing. Extract the thermostat from
the housing (noting its direction of fitting) and
where applicable, remove the O-ring seal (see
illustrations) .
Zetec engines
8Disconnect the expansion tank hose and
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
4.4b Disconnecting the expansion tank
top hose from the thermostat housing
(HCS engine). Radiator cooling fan thermal switch (arrowed)4.4a Thermostat housing hose
attachments on the CVH engine
4.7b Exploded view of thermostat and housing (CVH and PTE engines)
A Sealing ring C Retaining clip
B Thermostat
4.7a Removing the gasket and thermostat from an HCS engine4.6 Removing the thermostat housingfrom a CVH engine
3
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If all else fails, cut the hose
with a sharp knife, then slit
it so that it can be peeled off
in two pieces. Although this
may prove expensive if the hose is
otherwise undamaged, it is preferable
to buying a new radiator.
If the hose is stiff, use a little
soapy water as a lubricant,
or soften the hose by
soaking it in hot water. Do
not use oil or grease, which may attack
the rubber.
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